Added: 3 years ago
From: KH990j
Views: 10,924
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  • Sounds like a sewing machine!

  • Nice. Please adjust mine!

  • @woodsinme I wasn't the one doing the adjusting so I'd probably through your engine off, lol.

  • Oops, forgot this part: 5. Repeat this procedure for the remaining set of valves, turning the crankshaft (6303) with an auxiliary starter switch, one-third turn at a time, in the direction of rotation. At the same time, adjust the valves in the firing order sequence, 1-5-3-6-2-4.

  • Pretty much you just follow the procedure below and torque the rockers to 17-23ft/lbs. By doing the procedure below, coupled with torquing the rockers to the aforementioned spec, you will be perfect every time. Doing the adjustment with the engine running is haphazard, at best; good way to take out a lifter or cam lobe. 25 years of race engine building has taught me this!

  • 1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the key in the OFF position.

    2. Make two chalk marks on the crankshaft pulley (6312). Space the marks approximately 120 degrees apart so that, with the timing mark, the crankshaft pulley is divided into three equal parts (120 degrees is one-third of the distance around the damper circumference).

  • 3. Tighten the rocker arm bolts of the No. 1 intake and exhaust valves to specifications with No. 1 piston on TDC at the end of the compression stroke.

    4. Slowly supply pressure to bleed down the valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed using Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T70P-6513-A. Hold the valve tappets in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arms (6564) and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge.

  • You said that your uncle is "used to chevy". Is that because the rotation of the distributor is backwards from the Ford? I know the firing orders are the same.

  • @pskittle488 The distributor on his 250 I-6 in his '72 Chevy C20 (see related videos) runs a pattern that's opposite to the 300 I-6.

  • One of the best engines ever built... Love the backfire slow mo....

  • All the sights and sounds or the rocker train. Pretty cool.

  • im sure that did feel good!! lol

    nice work dudes.

  • Hrm...my '85 300 in an F150 didn't need it's valved adjusted. Ran like a top after I got a new head gasket in it.

  • Well you have to remove the rocker arms to replace the valve seals, so when you reinstall the system, you need to adjust so it runs correctly.

  • My hydraulic lifters took up the slack on first start. Didn't need to adjust them.

  • I don't understand how that would be. You heard what this engine sounded like after we put the rocker arms back on. We had to adjust them so the engine would run fully functional.

  • Idunno. But when I put mine back together and got it started, with no valve cover mind you, it was quiet. 0 valve noise whatsoever. The hydraulic lifters did their job and auto-compensated for the wear in the system.

  • Sounds like crap my man,set the timing.

  • Without the rocker arms adjusted correctly some valves would have been loose and some tight. This would be one of the main reasons why the engine sounded bad. Otherwise, it's a very smooth engine.

  • Guys, why are you adjusting valve lash while the engine is running ? Don't you want to do that while the engine is stopped ?

  • It's a little more time consuming to do that; with the engine running, you can hear if the valve tightens.

  • the 300 six is one of fords best engine. They are hard to kill. When they finally die they will just get weaker and weaker until one day it wont start. I know because my friends van did that. It ran out of oil 3 times in 12 years. I swear I dont think he ever changed the oil and filter in it. i guessed because it leaked real bad.

  • real torque monsters as well, makes torque at 1600rpms.

  • Sideplate gasket. Mine lost a one quart a month habit when I changed that thing.

  • i think i need one of those too

  • thanks for the video.

  • Pretty slick. I liked the explosion the best. =)

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