Yes sir, I have found the same thing unless it's a small area. Have you ever tried using a small strip of wood as the filler? The tile has to be really squared up nice, of course, but a small strip of wood run perpendicular works good in some applications.
Excellent video as I do this myself however you should never grout between hardwood and tile as they both expand and contract with temperature/moisture changes. I cant tell you how many houses I have been in to see this joint all cracked because someone was too lazy to suggest the proper materials. Just take your time and order or source a colored caulk that matched the grout. All grout suppliers make it. I myself like to put a piece of nickle Schluter around the tile separating from the wood.
@1234roadking1 Yes, typically you'll have a 3/4" sub-floor along with another 3/4" hardwood or a 1/2" plywood covered with linoleum on top. By removing the top layer, you'll end up with just the bottom 3/4" sub-floor. Clean this REAL good and glue and screw your backer-board here. Use thin set for the glue and make sure that the backer doesn't move. That's the key.
@Joshawanao Nope...been three years. Foyer, kitchen and both baths. Nice and flush with no cracks. An old-timer showed me how to do it this way and his lasted as long as the tile itself.
So I suggested taking out the subfloor to my contracter who said he needed a hard surface like that to put the backerboard onto. so he needed the subfloor there for that. You talk about not using the sub, and laying the backerboard then onto the surface using some concrete and screwing it on stable, that means you don't need the subfloor. can you explain the concrete step better (so I can do that tomorrow). glad it also does not make sense to someone why you can't have the tile and wood flush.
@jusaldor Okay, so here goes. Typically, you'll have a 3/4 sub-floor (that's what you see in the video on the bottom layer) For linoleum floor, two layers of plywood are typically used. So, you'll end up with a total of 1.5 inches of flooring. If you take off the top layer of plywood and replace it with the backer board (then tile) you'll end up with the same height. Just put a thin layer of tile adhesive under the b-board then screw it good. So, it's backer board on top of 3/4 sub-floor.
@michaelbronco Thanks. As long as I have this video and your comments I'll try to explain it tomorrow. Once he pulls up the existing subfloor we'll have a better sense of how much space there is to lay down a 3/4 subfloor and the 1/2 inch backer and tile on that. I am betting he thinks there is only 1 3/4 inch layer and not 2 but if you're right, then it sounds like it will work. Thank you!
@jusaldor Hi, just want to make sure we're on same page. You won't need 2 layers of plywood. Only 1. The 1/2 inch backer-board will go directly on top of the 1 layer of plywood. Just make sure that the 3/4 is screwed in good and the backer-board has a coat of adhesive underneath. I've had mine like that for three years. No issues at all.
@michaelbronco Thanks. I think he believes that when the existing plywood comes up there will only be 1 layer. I'm hoping he'll actually find 1.5 inches to work with, and can lay down the 3/4 plywood, 1/2 inch backer and the 1/4 inch tile for a perfectly flush set up. My only concern may be that my home's hardwood is laid right onto the main floor structure with no plywood. likely? So bathroom may be 1 layer. if so, I'm going to lay hardwood in the b room despite warnings...
@jusaldor Okay, so you'll only need 1 layer of 3/4 sub-floor to work with. You don't need 2. When you take up the top layer they're should be 1 layer of 3/4 sub-floor left. That's all you need. Just put the backer-board on top of that. But use the good stuff. And be sure to lay the backer on a coat of adhesive.
How about wood expansion? did you know that any hardwood manufacture will require at least 1/4" to 1/2" ?
I believe that is the reason why installers tell you that the only way to do it is by using the transition molding made by floor manufacture. I'm sure they are aware of your invention, they just don't want to deal with the liability & responsibility of doing things differently.
@Cheekychic03 Hey, yeah, I know about all those requirements. In some cases, they are good, but not usually. I learned from some real old-timers and there stuff still stands without defects or need for repair. Unless wood is really green it won't expand / contract that much. The application you see in the video hadn't budged and we live in nearly 100% humidity for much of the year. Bottom line - use good quality flooring. Real wood and be sure it is acclimated to your environment.
@Cheekychic03 Hey, yeah, I know about all those requirements. In some cases, they are good, but not usually. I learned from some real old-timers and there stuff still stands without defects or need for repair. Unless wood is really green it won't expand / contract that much. The application you see in the video hadn't budged and we live in nearly 100% humidity for much of the year. Bottom line - use good quality flooring. Real wood and be sure it is acclimated to your environment.
Yeah, you're gonna have a little trouble if the tile is already there because the hardwood is 3/4 and the tile is much thinner. Typically, you'd build up the sub floor with the backer board under the tile which would make the two surfaces match up nicely. Do you know what it under the tile?
great video but what about the other way around...i.e. installing hardwood, butting up against tile, and the hardwood is ending up higher...any ideas i am struggling with this
Yes sir, I have found the same thing unless it's a small area. Have you ever tried using a small strip of wood as the filler? The tile has to be really squared up nice, of course, but a small strip of wood run perpendicular works good in some applications.
michaelbronco 1 week ago
Excellent video as I do this myself however you should never grout between hardwood and tile as they both expand and contract with temperature/moisture changes. I cant tell you how many houses I have been in to see this joint all cracked because someone was too lazy to suggest the proper materials. Just take your time and order or source a colored caulk that matched the grout. All grout suppliers make it. I myself like to put a piece of nickle Schluter around the tile separating from the wood.
rockycon1967 1 week ago
you're just substituting backerboard for 3/4 board right?
1234roadking1 4 weeks ago
@1234roadking1 Yes, typically you'll have a 3/4" sub-floor along with another 3/4" hardwood or a 1/2" plywood covered with linoleum on top. By removing the top layer, you'll end up with just the bottom 3/4" sub-floor. Clean this REAL good and glue and screw your backer-board here. Use thin set for the glue and make sure that the backer doesn't move. That's the key.
michaelbronco 4 weeks ago
did the grout crack at that transition yet?
Joshawanao 1 month ago
@Joshawanao Nope...been three years. Foyer, kitchen and both baths. Nice and flush with no cracks. An old-timer showed me how to do it this way and his lasted as long as the tile itself.
michaelbronco 1 month ago
@michaelbronco Cool! that can normally be a problem area. grout = crack, caulk = dirt, transition strip = bump. Good job!
Joshawanao 1 month ago
So I suggested taking out the subfloor to my contracter who said he needed a hard surface like that to put the backerboard onto. so he needed the subfloor there for that. You talk about not using the sub, and laying the backerboard then onto the surface using some concrete and screwing it on stable, that means you don't need the subfloor. can you explain the concrete step better (so I can do that tomorrow). glad it also does not make sense to someone why you can't have the tile and wood flush.
jusaldor 4 months ago
@jusaldor Okay, so here goes. Typically, you'll have a 3/4 sub-floor (that's what you see in the video on the bottom layer) For linoleum floor, two layers of plywood are typically used. So, you'll end up with a total of 1.5 inches of flooring. If you take off the top layer of plywood and replace it with the backer board (then tile) you'll end up with the same height. Just put a thin layer of tile adhesive under the b-board then screw it good. So, it's backer board on top of 3/4 sub-floor.
michaelbronco 4 months ago
@michaelbronco Thanks. As long as I have this video and your comments I'll try to explain it tomorrow. Once he pulls up the existing subfloor we'll have a better sense of how much space there is to lay down a 3/4 subfloor and the 1/2 inch backer and tile on that. I am betting he thinks there is only 1 3/4 inch layer and not 2 but if you're right, then it sounds like it will work. Thank you!
jusaldor 4 months ago
@jusaldor Hi, just want to make sure we're on same page. You won't need 2 layers of plywood. Only 1. The 1/2 inch backer-board will go directly on top of the 1 layer of plywood. Just make sure that the 3/4 is screwed in good and the backer-board has a coat of adhesive underneath. I've had mine like that for three years. No issues at all.
michaelbronco 4 months ago
@michaelbronco Thanks. I think he believes that when the existing plywood comes up there will only be 1 layer. I'm hoping he'll actually find 1.5 inches to work with, and can lay down the 3/4 plywood, 1/2 inch backer and the 1/4 inch tile for a perfectly flush set up. My only concern may be that my home's hardwood is laid right onto the main floor structure with no plywood. likely? So bathroom may be 1 layer. if so, I'm going to lay hardwood in the b room despite warnings...
jusaldor 4 months ago
@jusaldor Okay, so you'll only need 1 layer of 3/4 sub-floor to work with. You don't need 2. When you take up the top layer they're should be 1 layer of 3/4 sub-floor left. That's all you need. Just put the backer-board on top of that. But use the good stuff. And be sure to lay the backer on a coat of adhesive.
michaelbronco 4 months ago
How about wood expansion? did you know that any hardwood manufacture will require at least 1/4" to 1/2" ?
I believe that is the reason why installers tell you that the only way to do it is by using the transition molding made by floor manufacture. I'm sure they are aware of your invention, they just don't want to deal with the liability & responsibility of doing things differently.
Cheekychic03 5 months ago
@Cheekychic03 Hey, yeah, I know about all those requirements. In some cases, they are good, but not usually. I learned from some real old-timers and there stuff still stands without defects or need for repair. Unless wood is really green it won't expand / contract that much. The application you see in the video hadn't budged and we live in nearly 100% humidity for much of the year. Bottom line - use good quality flooring. Real wood and be sure it is acclimated to your environment.
michaelbronco 5 months ago
@Cheekychic03 Hey, yeah, I know about all those requirements. In some cases, they are good, but not usually. I learned from some real old-timers and there stuff still stands without defects or need for repair. Unless wood is really green it won't expand / contract that much. The application you see in the video hadn't budged and we live in nearly 100% humidity for much of the year. Bottom line - use good quality flooring. Real wood and be sure it is acclimated to your environment.
michaelbronco 5 months ago
Yeah, you're gonna have a little trouble if the tile is already there because the hardwood is 3/4 and the tile is much thinner. Typically, you'd build up the sub floor with the backer board under the tile which would make the two surfaces match up nicely. Do you know what it under the tile?
michaelbronco 9 months ago
great video but what about the other way around...i.e. installing hardwood, butting up against tile, and the hardwood is ending up higher...any ideas i am struggling with this
redsbleeding2003 9 months ago
@redsbleeding2003 The other question I have is what's under the hardwood? Is it one or two sheets of underlayment?
michaelbronco 9 months ago