Added: 2 years ago
From: MagicPatrick1
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  • Patrick,

    I have an old 80% in that crawl space not and according to Nordyne "Attached are the Specifications and Features of the 97%+ furnace and installation instructions. It is approved for use in attic or crawl space (page 16 of inst. instr,). As long as the installation meets the installation requirements, all should be fine".

    Just wondered if you'd seen one in an unconditioned space? It seems a shame to replace an 80% and not upgrade yet I hate to have troubles.

    QR

  • @TheQuickRick The trouble comes when it breaks down. You could always add a tap collar and feed that area, or heat tape the drain ect. But if it goes down, especially horizontaly, water trapped inside the furnace might freeze. Likely not? But what if...

    There's ALWAYS moisture in the plastic venter motor housing too. So much to consider...

  • Patrick,

    Have you mounted one of these in an unconditioned attic or crawl space? I ask because I want to do one of these like my other 95.1 % Gibson but it is inside. I worry about water trapped inside and the risk of freezing temps.

    Nordyne says it is okay but I wondered if you'd ever seen one installed in the cold?

    Thanks,

    QR

  • @TheQuickRick I wouldn't, but an 82% should be fine.

  • I finally vented my furnace going with your intake method, ran through the entire start-up sequence and all seems well. I clocked an input of 58, 800 BTUs on the meter after doing the math. Is the only way to tell low fire versus high fire beyond the sound? (my thermostat will also give status) I am curious if the lights give any clue......I'm thinking they only give flame lit status.

    Thanks again...this was a big help!

  • @TheQuickRick The light just comes on (green) when it fires. On the contol board, look close and you'll see a small dip switch that says short or long. Switch it over to short. This will cycle the unit on low fire for just 12 minutes!

    In the book is another dip switch chart for the blower. Be sure these are set accordingly or the unit will cycle on limit. Your outlet (supply) temp should be NO MORE than 60 degrees above the return/inlet temp! Crucial!!!

  • @MagicPatrick1

    Yes, the temperature difference was a measured 47 degrees and I set the dip switches according to the chart. I believe that I followed the start-up/ installation instructions to a T. At one point I was going to replace the older basement casement windows because they are less than air tight, but with a gas dryer, furnace and water heater, prudence tells me to leave them be.

  • Patrick,

    I did as you'd suggested by using utility room air and making it a "1 pipe system" . I did run my pipe up into the now unused chimney where the old furnace used to vent, it seems to work just great. It has a huge cap on the top and I insulated the open space around the 2 inch PVC piping.

    I'm no expert yet on when it goes to low fire or why, but I can hear it and the thermostat status tells you as well. I have confirmed all of the temperature rises, gas pressures etc.

    Thanks

  • Patrick,

    I did as you'd suggested by using utility room air and making it a "1 pipe system" . I did run my pipe up into the now unused chimney where the old furnace used to vent, it seems to work just great. It has a huge cap on the top and I insulated the open space around the 2 inch PVC piping.

    I'm no expert yet on when it goes to low fire or why, but I can hear it and the thermostat status tells you as well. I have confirmed all of the temperature rises, gas pressures etc.

    Thanks!

  • Why don't you run the intake? It'll increase heat exchanger life, efficiency,comfort, and decrease noise levels in homes. My philosophy has always been that if it has an intake collar, a pipe gets connected to it. A guy worked for me and I sent him out and tried him for a day. went and checked his installation....no intake so i terminated him.... sign of a short-cutter.

  • If it we're in an enclosed area, or living area of the home, such as a closet, I'd agree. But these aren't sealed combustion furnaces. There is no 'collar', just a plastic screen.

    The hole you see is just another 'outlet', due to it being a multi positional furnace. If mounded horizontal the inducer motor requires a quick flip.

  • @MagicPatrick1

    Thanks for posting this, I just installed mine a few months ago in summer but needed to finish the flue and start up. I used that really nice Honeywell Prestige touch screen t-stat that works well and has the outdoor sensor.

    My plan is to use the brick chimney as a chase to exhaust to the outside. I'd like to use the chimney interior air as an intake source for the furnace. Nothing in the instructions says that I can't. Your opinion?

  • @TheQuickRick Is it in a confined space, such as a closet? That would be alright aslong as you use a 'gooseneck' at the top, away from where it's drawing from. Unless it's really really tight, such as a through the wall/door return you should be able to just supply that area with outside air and leave the screen on top vs' the fitting/pipe.

    Whenever you bring direct outside air into a furnace it causes alot of corrosion.

  • norydne junk

  • the glowplug in my has a spark element coil then a heating element coil

  • Some of the old Carriers, bryants, and paynes have a spark to pilot that heated a bimetallic strip. It was 1 entire assembly, kinda pricey too.

  • @MagicPatrick1 ...Is this the 92 or the 95.1?

  • 95.1

  • I used to sell the FRIGIDAIRE line and I loved it so did the homeowners. Never had too many problems at all with the units I installed. The unhappy owners of these units are usually homeowners that had the units installed by some lacky that never heeded the IOM.......the units I went back and got running correctly! Don't listen to anybody calling these junk, they're the contractors and homeowners that don't do their research.

  • @MagicPatrick1 ..I believe that pilot assm. was a LH-680-008. They were running me about $80.00!

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