Hookin the blower up to the door switch is a stupid way to activate the blower! Most customers are not going to want the blower going non stop and add extra money to the electriv bill, u should wire the blower to a relay with a 24v coil hook up 115v to one side the hi speed to the other and hook the 24v coil side to the R and G on the board. So when your callin for cooling the 24v will active the coil and turn the blower on.
Learn the sequence of operations, other wise ur just pissin in the wind cause u may have not had to take the board out. The problem could ha rest with the fan relay or the fan itself
on this board can you tell me where to test for power in to make sure my fan control board is not bad. i have the same board in this video. i need to test for power coming in cause i have no diag light need to check to see if its the power switch or the board or the transformer can anyone help me on this thanks in advance!
Hey I watched your video twice, and did what you said to do, and my fan kicked on! I noticed a blown fuse so I'm going to try and replace it first, but in the mean time, can I replace the heater wire instead of the cooling wire to the switch? It's winter now!
@oneadvent No! You can't bypass the control board in heat mode, especially gas. There are numerous safeties on the board to protect you and the system from fire hazards. In Cool mode it's not a big deal to do it till you get parts since the only thing the board does in cool mode is turn on the blower. In heat mode it's a whole different ballgame. Just leave it shut off until a technician can get you a replacement installed :)
@mikie2501 hahaha sorry I watched one of your other videos and you said "I cannot say it enough, do not bypass for heat" so I didn't. I noticed that the fuse is blown on the board, so I think that is what is wrong, and before it went bad there was a pretty loud sound from it, like a jet engine. I was going to replace the fuse and see what happens. Someone suggested that it may be some ball berrings or something, but it sounds fine when bypassed in cool mode. My fuse is 5 A, rated up to 32V
i blew a fuse on circuit board...before this the led was blinking 3 times now i have two green leds and one yellow but blower motor still wont come on...circuit board for this rheem furnace are over 200 dollars off line...i found one for 145 online....i jumpered out the limit switch and still nothing
@madamfreak Check to see if there is a sticker on the unit showing what the blink codes mean, otherwise I can't help with that off the top of my head. Usually a blow fuse on the board is due to a short in the low voltage wiring. Check for rodent chewed low voltage wiring, weed eater or dog chewed wiring outside, etc. ...really hard to trouble shoot most things like this without actually being there. If it isn't something simple like damaged wiring it's best to hire a professional to fix .
my blower motor wasnt coming on either...i had my chimney parched...the ignition worked lit the burner....i kept doin this...then i tried to see if there was current to the motor with my voltage tic....but then the igniter sparked again and now i have nothing power to it but nothing...no led lights power to the board but nothing after
Hi, I watch this video. More informative. I have a problem with Hot surface igniter. Furnace is Rheem RGDJ 07 EAUER gas code EB . It doe not glow at all. I changed it still doenot work. It works fine with all sequences except I am igniting with gas lighter. Sequence works fine and I keep a flame of lighter to it and it ignites and sequence works fine. I think there is no power to Igniter which also leads to control board which may be bad. HOW DO I CONFIRM AND FIND OUT THE PROBLEM AND SOLUTION?
they Want 1000 dollars for the part and labor.... I bought the part for 80 but i am confused as to how to install it its a white rodgers universal 50A55-843 can you help me please?
@BIGGOODBOY That is flat out highway robbery and rape! lol. My company would have charged about 350 or so I think. (trying to remember) ...I STRONGLY recommend you call another HVAC company and have them install the part. Don't mess around with gas furnace stuff, the boards have safety interlocks and you need to make sure it is done RIGHT the first time! Or post on craigslist, ask for an HVAC tech willing to do it for a 'donation'. Safety First!
@mikie2501 But do I need to mess with the gas or furnace to replace that part? it just controls the fan. I talked with this guy that does that for a living. He said all I need to do is turn off the electricity to the system, which is a switch (looks like a light switch) then when I replace the part. Just take out the wires one at a time and put them in the right place (which is i guess some sort of matching numbers). I know I can do it... I just need to know if i need to do anything with the gas
@BIGGOODBOY Well there is the catch, it DOES do more than just control the blower motor. The control board's main function is to regulate and control the gas furnace and gas valve (in most circumstances, I can't see your unit). The board tells everything how to work and the safeties are wired into it as well. Yes, you can do one wire at a time while replacing, that is what I always do, but my suggestion to hiring a professional is for safety reasons. I turn off the gas valve when I work. M@
@mikie2501 ok thanks a lot man I think I will just have to find someone to do it for a reasonable amount. I would like to keep my arms :) no explosions
@BIGGOODBOY There ya go! Well if you are on a tight budget post on Craigslist for a Technician who will do it on the side for a 'donation'. Make sure he/she has a license though so you aren't just getting someone faking it! ...but even just hiring someone from a reputable company you should prolly just get off for the hourly rate which shouldn't be too bad! (all things considered) Better than that 1000 fee, lol. Hell I'll fly to you and do it for $1000! hehehe
@mikie2501 haha i know man. that guy was B.S. full of it.... He goes well let me see i think i can put this under home insurance and it will cost you 750 instead im like no thank
Thanks for this. I was able to order another board online and get it for 1/2 of what the locals wanted. Also, no service call costs. You should have a donation link or something. I'd toss you a $20 as thanks.
@texasrovers If it's a gas furnace it's best to have a professional install replacement parts as working with gas and/or safeties it is important to make sure it's done right. Hey, love the donation idea! I'll see if I can add one, until then if you *insist* *(grin)*
Thank you very much for this. I found my board was bad and not the blower. I was able to order another board for 1/2 of what the locals wanted. And no service call costs either. You should have a donation link or something. I'd happily toss you a $20 in thanks.
Mikie, I have a furnace blower that's driving me mad. The room temperature is 82, and I have my temperature set at 78. I went up the attic and kicked on the furnace door, the fan would start. After I got back down, the fan would stop. I went back up and tape the door switch in to stay on, and got the fan to start, but after awhile the fan would stop. It's coming on and off despite I set the fan to on. This Carrier HVAC has been in service since 1999. The controller board has been replaced twice.
@AtlasDerek Assuming that there isn't a problem with the blower motor or run capacitor there could be an issue with the low voltage control wiring, an intermittent door safety switch or other connection or safety device. You need to have a technician verify that there is power to the unit when the blower is failing to come on and if that is verified the low voltage control wiring needs to be checked to prove that the board is receiving control voltage from the thermostat. M@
@mikie2501 Mikie, I have a Carrier A/C that has a controller board that's frequently failing. Specifically, the Tyco Electronics Potter & Brumfield T9AV1D22-22-02 part is falling off the board. This is the third time that's happening.
ok so im currently getting a HVAC certificate at a tech school and im trying to decide if i should get an Industrial Electrical Maintenance Technical certificate after i get the HVAC one...would i get a better/ higher paying job if i have both certificates or would it not really make a difference?
that was cool but to add a big wow factor try adding a 90380 fan relay and jumping y and c from board to relay coil and fan leads to n/o then your fan will work with the t-stat
that was cool but to add a big wow factor try adding a 90380 fan relay and jumping y and c from board to relay coil and fan leads to n/c then your fan will work with the t-stat
Haven't had AC in two days now. Replaced the blower motor and that wasn't the problem. Found out it's the control board. I used your video to show me how to bypass the board until I can get a new one tomorrow. The AC fired right up and is cooling nicely. A real life saver in this heat! Thank you.
@LaneVines I'm glad that the video was of great help! Remember folks that these videos that I am posting are for techs and that you are taking you life (and equipment) in your own hands if you go tinkering with things! Also, even though i've mentioned it many times before I will do so again, NEVER bypass the board in heating mode since you don't know if any of the safeties are dammaged! Better to buy/rent a small heater to sleep in a room than take a chance of the thing going boom! M@ :)
@mikie2501 Mike, thanks for the reply. In regards to your example in the video, what causes the board, motor and capacitor to all go out simultaneously? What have your experiences been in these situations.
@mikie2501 cool video bro!!! Let me ask you this. If the indoor blower motor never shuts off does that mean the Normally open on the fan relay is stuck together?
PLEASE NEVER DO THIS TECHS, ITS AGAINST THE PRINCIPLES OF SAFETY! even though it does work for testing while your on the premises, never leave a unit rigged like this. You will pay! Ex: ok you got your door safety switch off now , if a little kid wants to pull the door of and stick his gi joe guy in a blower he'll never see his hand again! true story by the way... thanks for listening.
i just use an old fan relay i took off an old furnace,wire the thermostat fan wire to the 24v coil of it and a common,and then run your fan motor wires thru normally open contacts, now it works as it always does, fan shuts off and on with A/C .till you can get a new board.still take off the heat speed wire from the board.wiring the relay takes just a few minutes.
I have a lennox gas unit, my new control board is a little different, like my old one has a fuse and this new panel does not. I want to install this panel myself, but I am a little concerned since it is some what different. any advice....thx
@chererene I know home owners frequently like to do their own repairs and as a general rule I tell them here to hire a tech to do the repairs for safety reasons but in this case you should ESPECIALLY make sure to get a technician to do the job. Gas furnaces are nothing to be playing around with and taking a chance on. You need a tech to make sure it's the right board, installed properly and ALL of the safeties and interlocks are functioning properly! Sorry this isn't the answer you wanted :/
I have a goodman ac unit that the blower motor cuts off an on about every 3 to 4 sec.I jumped the control board like on your video an the blower motor ran fine do you think it is the control board that is bad and is the time delay relay built in or not thanks.
is it possible for a defrost board to also control the blower fan? i googled my goodman board part# and it was listed as a defrost board but I traced wires that are plugged into it back to the blower motor....my blower motor doesnt always come on, sometimes i have to restart the system then it will come on
@dmb3428 I'll need a bit more information that that I think, and need to make sure exactly what boards you are talking about and make sure you are talking about the same motor that I am. The defrost control board is on the outside condenser and is used with heat pump systems to control the indoor heat strips and the outside 'condenser fan motor', not the indoor blower motor.
Great video. I have a question. Is it possible to determine whether it's the motor or the control board without bypassing the control board? I watched the video so I would have an idea of what was going on when the tech came out. He spent about 1 minute checking some connection points with an amp meter, and determined it was a bad motor.
I have the same problem with an old Trane unit. The blower turns on with the heat but not with the A/C. The outdoor A/C unit is working, but the blower is not kicking on. What does that sound like?
dude, awesome video. i came home to my inop blower on my trane unit. I am an automotive electrial specialist so i know my electrical. I had no 120v coming out of the board for the blower yet the compressor and outside fan were running strong so i suspected the control board. you confirmed my diagnosis and showed me how to easily "rig" it to work as this is memorial day weekend and i can not get any parts AT ALL till tuesday after memorial day. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!!
thanks for doing this video, i have the same problem, its central air, and the blower is lennox, the outside unit is Heil, it runs fine, but the indoor blower is not coming on at all, i checked all breakers, everything is on, still the blower wont come on,
will be a month before i have enought money saved up for repairs, at least seeing your video gives me the idea of what could be wrong with my unit, thanks
@letseeitplease No problem, just remember that you should have a tech work on it, dangerous voltages and safties that have to be considered! Keep in mind it most likely is NOT a relay, more often than not it is a capacitor (easy fix) or worse, the blower motor.
@mikie2501 hey thanks mikie, well the repairman came out here and found it was not the blower motor, it was the board, he has the blower motor on a hot legg now so it will continue to run so i can at least have airconditioning, outside unit is doing fine, he is calling around for the best price on new board to be installed next month, thanks again for your information, it was helpful,
Can someone please help me my house has no heat having fan problems. Please watch my video that i uploaded and give me some pointers please. I would really appreciate it.
hi, mikie i just replace control board on a armstrong furnace with a honeywellst9120u and the blower start even without a call for heat and keeps running, i have triple check and cant figure out any clue? thanks.
why didnt u spend a little more time on it and put a relay for the blower only to come on when it had a G call. two days with the blower on all day and nite really really
hi im a new student of HVAC and i have a cuestion maybe you can help me, whats the best for a domestic air handler a sleeve-bearing motor or a ball bearing motor for the same application? i think one is not good because of posible noise problem but im not sure thank you
I just installed a used unit, it worked for two weeks, then quit, in the lower left hand corner of the circuit board Its toasted, I did have two green lights, Now nothing, have od=rdered another board but am worried that what got the first on is laying in wait for my new board. loose neutral kill it? any suggestions? I dont want to blow up another board and busks.
my condensor motor is stopping after ten fifteen minutes due to heat(cant touch the top of unit) I have replaced the motor and capacitator with no luck. At night it runs longer but still shuts down. Could this be relay switch or circuit board. When its running it runs cold as hell but only for short times
@iac821 Condener motor being the outside fan motor (just verifying our terminology here!) ....check the fan capacitor again to make sure it is ok, if the reading goes up and down and up and down on the cap then it might be a bad cap, I get those once in a while. If the capacitor is good and it it si the right cap for the motor then check the motor, sometimes I will see people put 1075rpm motors on units that SHOULD have 825rpm motors and they can't keep up. Right size motor? M@
@mikie2501 i have the exact same problem , except the condensor motor keeps shutting off on really hot days when i need it most, but on other days it runs fine
@iac821 Can't believe I havent answered this one yet! If it is a new motor/capacitor then you might have the wrong motor installed. I've seen this happen where someone would install a, say, 1/4hp 1075 rpm motor and the thing has like 3 or 4 really big fan blades, ...unit was probably originally shipped with an 820 rpm 1/4 hp motor and can handle the stress load and the 1075 just overheats.
hi Mikie2501, I have problem w/ air handling system. the fan does not run. when checking the circuit breaker for air handling it tripped, I reset it but it trips again in less than 5 seconds. do you have any ideas what cause the breaker tripped. I went to the attic and inspected the control board, but could not figure out where the short circuit occurred. please help
@teachmebetter If the air handler is blowing the breaker that quickly then you might have a high voltage short to ground. It could be something less dangerous but I suggest you call in a professional so that you don't electrocute yourself. I've had a few close calls from loose wiring that was difficult to see etc. So just be safe and make sure by getting a tech to look at this one! m@
Thanks for the awesome idea. So the fan option of the board was bad. You bypassed the board to run the blower direct until the part came in. My only concern would be the constant operation of the blower. Great stuff. I worked on a similar circuit board but it was a much more simple fix. Dog had bit the 24 volt wires at the outdoor unit which in turn popped the fuse. I replaced it and it was good. Keep posting circuit board trouble shooting. Schooling does not teach too much on this area Thanks.
mikie2501, just can't say enough good things about this video. I'm a handy guy, but until I saw this it never clicked how the major parts of my heat/AC work together w/ black box. Our blower stopped 2 days ago in 100F weather while the compressor kept running, and by the time I realized no air was flowing in the house, the furnace room was a mess with moisture & frozen lines everywhere. Today I jumped the cool/high motor wire to 120V line and it was sweet relief. Me, my wife & baby thank you!
mikie2501, just can't say enough good things about this video. I'm a handy guy, but until I saw this it never clicked how the major parts of my heat/AC work together w/ black box. Our blower stopped 2 days ago in 100F weather while the compressor kept running, and by the time I realized no air was flowing in the house, the furnace room was a mess with moisture & frozen lines everywhere. Today I jumped the cool/high motor wire to 120V line and it was sweet relief. Me, my wife & baby thank you!
mikie2501, just can't say enough good things about this video. I'm a handy guy, but until I saw this it never clicked how the major parts of my heat/AC work together w/ black box. Our blower stopped 2 days ago in 100F weather while the compressor kept running, and by the time I realized no air was flowing in the house, the furnace room was a mess with moisture & frozen lines everywhere. Today I jumped the cool/high motor wire to 120V line and it was sweet relief. Me, my wife & baby thank you!
RED,used for cooling ? your kidding right !? the kids we train out of tech school know better , FOR THE RECORD : indoor blower red=low . blue=med . black= high .... yellow or white = common for motor .... these colors go back to sometime in the 70s before that it was not so simple . the wires often had number tags the service info would give the purpose for that numbered wire . please fix this video , bad information helps nobody
@CactusBobsPlace You are correct, when I did the video originally I commented at the beginning of the video that the wiring color was not correct and that the brown and red wires were just what I had at hand at the moment to use as an example on the board.
That white plug that you unplug from the board with all the colors code wires plug into. Well on my unit when I unplug that plug off from the board my blower work and i can hear my refigerant circulated, but when i plug that plug into the board i still hear refigerant circulated but blower dont come on. Why is that? It a new board also. It is good to had the blower run 24/7? Thanks for advise.
I bench tested blower motor as suggested. it calculates well. I omhed out black lead to motor shell, got continuity after pulling motor from unit. originally blower motor did not come on during call for cooling or fan/on. I jumped R to G, still fan did not come on. Please Advice!
@14KJEWELRYREPAIR I honlestly don't remember this conversation <lol> ...this may require an email with more writing space) Calculates well?? ..if the black lead has continuity to the shell then the motor is shorted to ground. (bad) ...mght email me with the full details again if you haven't already (sorry my memory is horrid!)
Thermostat maybe...whats the voltage of the unit and control voltage? Transformer might be wired 230 instead of 208 v causing not enough va to pull in both relay coils.
for some reason my blower stopped working i unplugged G and R and jumped G to R then the fan would kick on but the compressor wouldnt work, then i put the wires back and the compressor works but not the fan, I plugg 2 wires into the R and both the fan and compressor and working now. Any idea what could be my problem ? relay ? how do i trouble shoot that.
Hey I got a quick question, I have that exact board you demonstrated with in this video. There is a jumper setting for the fan time delay, its set at 0 by the factory (meaning it turns off when the condensing unit turns off) why can't it be set at 80 seconds? (the other setting) Wouldn't it be more efficient?
wat about using a meter to check for power.red isnt used for cooling.what should the voltage be. wat should be looking for.why not just remove the control wire to heat. I can already tell you have no business do this even though your heart is in the rite place. but all your doing is showing that all negative perceptions of a/c techs are true. please STOP devalueing our trade.
well all of you geniuses , you guys need to understand that all it ty=akes is 1 touch of the wrong wire with power on or off . so save money and to hell with your life. do you think your heart can take any amont of electricity all it takes is enough to dirupt the heart beat. but i guess $120 will get it to beat again.
yeh i have done this hundred of times another way of doing it so that it does shut on and off when your stat calls get a relay and run the green wire for the fan to the low voltage on the relay and the high voltage to the open terminals properly marked on the relay itself and when the low voltage is applied to the relay it closes the connection and the fan comes on once the stat has satisfied fan goes off good for a temp fix and have stupidly even seen as a permanent fix
Ran into the same issue on the furnace at my parent's house a couple years ago.
The repair cost nothing, I happened to have a suitable replacement relay in my parts bin, so I got the soldering iron out and swapped in the good one, popped the board back in and all good to go!
It always comes in handy to be able to do board/component level repairs, saved so much money throughout the years on various broken things (appliances, consumer electronics, etc).
Great video. I had a no heat, and the relay was gone on the board. It was a cold night for the customer till we can get the replacement board next day. I mention it to my boss and he gives me hell for not wiring the motor in directly to line so they have heat...I dont know about him--but I worked hard to earn my license and am trying not to mess it up...
There are a lot of boards with the xformer primary sitting right next to the L1 for primary power that you could disconnect the primary xformer hot leg and connect your high speed motor hot lead to. The two spades are soldered together. Thought I would throw that out to other technicians. I've come across safety switches that have the lead soldered inside and there's no spade connector.
I can't believe you took the time to make this video and thank I was blessed enough to find it. A HVAC expert visited my house this weekend and for $100, mis-diagnosed the issue and wanted to charge $1000 more for the BS repairs. Also, not having the parts left me, a pregnant wife, and a 2 year old without AC in the heat. Using your method, I resolved MY OWN issue and can repair for $120. I can tell you that I don't care one IOTA about the blower running until the part gets here. THANKS THANKS
Very seldom have I done that. Like 2 times I think. usually if the board isn't an exact replacment it's kind of close. Usually you can sit outside in the comfort of your truck when you go back and sit in the cool air and read through the instructions, figure out changes that they want you to make, etc. The 2 times I have marked everything were on really old systems and the new boards were radically different and I had to change some wire lengths too. NO fun in a hot attic!!
You spelled bastard wrong, bastard... By the way I an hvac tech, I just wanted to know other tech's way of doing work. There might be a few with photographic memory out there. But like always, there one in a bunch who only feels tough enough to insult some one without knowing them. They only exist on line and you are one of them. You may answer back but what ever you say doesn't matter because you just proved to be a bastard.
a nice video i had the same problem with my aunt's control board the other day i did the same thing but i didnt had a three way conector so i only let the motor on until i went for the control board.
nice demonstration I like the idea of wiring straight into the doorswitch, Ive never tried that one. As far as running the blower 24-7 how bout just putting on a temporary 24volt relay, that way it operates normally by thermostat.
That's been mentioned before and I've been meaning to do a demo video of that. Actually been meaning to rig up a 'relay in a box' with pigtails and all that I can reuse for just such a situation. On my round-to-it list! hehe
cant you just for voltage, rather than doing the other stuff? then do what you did to get them going for awhile until you get the part? To me that is much easier and quicker. No power out of board, it's straight forward, bad board.
Hey, Pretty cool idea on testing the motor by putting high on the door switch.
I'm gonna use that if you don't mind !
i don't know about leaving the fan run 24/7though. unless you told the customer how to turn it off. breaker or unplug it.? ok then.
i Probably would of got a contactor off the truck and took the green wire to contactor coil.other to common. door switch to contactor. whala done. two screws into cabinet for temporary affixing of contactor.
I don't like the idea of leaving a motor running 24/7 until you got that board. You should have gotten a separate fan relay and installed that to the high speed fan wire instead. I think that would have left the customer a bit more comfortable. Besides, leaving the fan on all the time creates more heat when the condenser isn't on by blowing the motors own heat into a home, therefore causing the a/c to cut on more often, which equals to a high energy bill.
HvacrTalk . com welcomes Techs contractors and consumers to join free and discuss and trade info and learn meet others in the trade. good links and resources...all you need is a valid email to activate your account.
Oh HELL no! (holding back tears while laughing) That would MAKE SENSE!!
I've never really payed much attention to the 12 pin plug though, just make sure you read the instructions with any board change out because sometimes they make changes or what you to jumper things around if its a modified board, not usually though.
T-stat to unit to condenser wiring though is whatever color the installed thought was a good flavor of the day! Usually it's all the same though.
I have a chart in the truck in a binder book to remind me of stupid thing. Like on most thermostats O is for the reversing valve, some systems use B though, others like Trane etc B is actually COMMON! Doh!
X on some units is common and on others X or X2 is emergency heat! No telling what colors will be giong to this stuff.
Is the 12 pin plug universal? I mean, are the colors always the same for ALL units, yellow for outdoor fan and comp, green for indoor fan, white neutral... etc..etc.??
Will do, and thanks for watching! It's a lot more fun making the videos than trying to figure something out in someones hot ass attic! I'll have to do a video later about job safety I think! Mike
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VitalElectrocomp 2 days ago
Hookin the blower up to the door switch is a stupid way to activate the blower! Most customers are not going to want the blower going non stop and add extra money to the electriv bill, u should wire the blower to a relay with a 24v coil hook up 115v to one side the hi speed to the other and hook the 24v coil side to the R and G on the board. So when your callin for cooling the 24v will active the coil and turn the blower on.
tallentedfab 1 week ago
Learn the sequence of operations, other wise ur just pissin in the wind cause u may have not had to take the board out. The problem could ha rest with the fan relay or the fan itself
TheRoadkill3 4 weeks ago
This video was a big help! if we have more problems or anythin again, we'll look you up :)
Santrial 1 month ago
on this board can you tell me where to test for power in to make sure my fan control board is not bad. i have the same board in this video. i need to test for power coming in cause i have no diag light need to check to see if its the power switch or the board or the transformer can anyone help me on this thanks in advance!
MrGurudude5 3 months ago
i have the same board in my trane xb80 the diad light is off and nothing is working nothing. can you tell me how to test for the issue please!!!
MrGurudude5 3 months ago
Hey I watched your video twice, and did what you said to do, and my fan kicked on! I noticed a blown fuse so I'm going to try and replace it first, but in the mean time, can I replace the heater wire instead of the cooling wire to the switch? It's winter now!
oneadvent 3 months ago
@oneadvent No! You can't bypass the control board in heat mode, especially gas. There are numerous safeties on the board to protect you and the system from fire hazards. In Cool mode it's not a big deal to do it till you get parts since the only thing the board does in cool mode is turn on the blower. In heat mode it's a whole different ballgame. Just leave it shut off until a technician can get you a replacement installed :)
mikie2501 3 months ago
@mikie2501 hahaha sorry I watched one of your other videos and you said "I cannot say it enough, do not bypass for heat" so I didn't. I noticed that the fuse is blown on the board, so I think that is what is wrong, and before it went bad there was a pretty loud sound from it, like a jet engine. I was going to replace the fuse and see what happens. Someone suggested that it may be some ball berrings or something, but it sounds fine when bypassed in cool mode. My fuse is 5 A, rated up to 32V
oneadvent 3 months ago
@oneadvent I sent you a message on your youtube page with my number, give me a call today. (sunday) Michael
mikie2501 3 months ago
i blew a fuse on circuit board...before this the led was blinking 3 times now i have two green leds and one yellow but blower motor still wont come on...circuit board for this rheem furnace are over 200 dollars off line...i found one for 145 online....i jumpered out the limit switch and still nothing
madamfreak 4 months ago in playlist Furnace troubleshooting
@madamfreak Check to see if there is a sticker on the unit showing what the blink codes mean, otherwise I can't help with that off the top of my head. Usually a blow fuse on the board is due to a short in the low voltage wiring. Check for rodent chewed low voltage wiring, weed eater or dog chewed wiring outside, etc. ...really hard to trouble shoot most things like this without actually being there. If it isn't something simple like damaged wiring it's best to hire a professional to fix .
mikie2501 4 months ago
my blower motor wasnt coming on either...i had my chimney parched...the ignition worked lit the burner....i kept doin this...then i tried to see if there was current to the motor with my voltage tic....but then the igniter sparked again and now i have nothing power to it but nothing...no led lights power to the board but nothing after
madamfreak 4 months ago in playlist Furnace troubleshooting
Hi, I watch this video. More informative. I have a problem with Hot surface igniter. Furnace is Rheem RGDJ 07 EAUER gas code EB . It doe not glow at all. I changed it still doenot work. It works fine with all sequences except I am igniting with gas lighter. Sequence works fine and I keep a flame of lighter to it and it ignites and sequence works fine. I think there is no power to Igniter which also leads to control board which may be bad. HOW DO I CONFIRM AND FIND OUT THE PROBLEM AND SOLUTION?
sdalwadi09 4 months ago
they Want 1000 dollars for the part and labor.... I bought the part for 80 but i am confused as to how to install it its a white rodgers universal 50A55-843 can you help me please?
BIGGOODBOY 5 months ago
@BIGGOODBOY That is flat out highway robbery and rape! lol. My company would have charged about 350 or so I think. (trying to remember) ...I STRONGLY recommend you call another HVAC company and have them install the part. Don't mess around with gas furnace stuff, the boards have safety interlocks and you need to make sure it is done RIGHT the first time! Or post on craigslist, ask for an HVAC tech willing to do it for a 'donation'. Safety First!
mikie2501 5 months ago
@mikie2501 But do I need to mess with the gas or furnace to replace that part? it just controls the fan. I talked with this guy that does that for a living. He said all I need to do is turn off the electricity to the system, which is a switch (looks like a light switch) then when I replace the part. Just take out the wires one at a time and put them in the right place (which is i guess some sort of matching numbers). I know I can do it... I just need to know if i need to do anything with the gas
BIGGOODBOY 5 months ago
@BIGGOODBOY Well there is the catch, it DOES do more than just control the blower motor. The control board's main function is to regulate and control the gas furnace and gas valve (in most circumstances, I can't see your unit). The board tells everything how to work and the safeties are wired into it as well. Yes, you can do one wire at a time while replacing, that is what I always do, but my suggestion to hiring a professional is for safety reasons. I turn off the gas valve when I work. M@
mikie2501 5 months ago
@mikie2501 ok thanks a lot man I think I will just have to find someone to do it for a reasonable amount. I would like to keep my arms :) no explosions
BIGGOODBOY 5 months ago
@BIGGOODBOY There ya go! Well if you are on a tight budget post on Craigslist for a Technician who will do it on the side for a 'donation'. Make sure he/she has a license though so you aren't just getting someone faking it! ...but even just hiring someone from a reputable company you should prolly just get off for the hourly rate which shouldn't be too bad! (all things considered) Better than that 1000 fee, lol. Hell I'll fly to you and do it for $1000! hehehe
mikie2501 5 months ago
@mikie2501 haha i know man. that guy was B.S. full of it.... He goes well let me see i think i can put this under home insurance and it will cost you 750 instead im like no thank
BIGGOODBOY 5 months ago
Thanks for this. I was able to order another board online and get it for 1/2 of what the locals wanted. Also, no service call costs. You should have a donation link or something. I'd toss you a $20 as thanks.
texasrovers 5 months ago
@texasrovers If it's a gas furnace it's best to have a professional install replacement parts as working with gas and/or safeties it is important to make sure it's done right. Hey, love the donation idea! I'll see if I can add one, until then if you *insist* *(grin)*
mikie2501 5 months ago
Thank you very much for this. I found my board was bad and not the blower. I was able to order another board for 1/2 of what the locals wanted. And no service call costs either. You should have a donation link or something. I'd happily toss you a $20 in thanks.
texasrovers 5 months ago
Mikie, I have a furnace blower that's driving me mad. The room temperature is 82, and I have my temperature set at 78. I went up the attic and kicked on the furnace door, the fan would start. After I got back down, the fan would stop. I went back up and tape the door switch in to stay on, and got the fan to start, but after awhile the fan would stop. It's coming on and off despite I set the fan to on. This Carrier HVAC has been in service since 1999. The controller board has been replaced twice.
AtlasDerek 5 months ago
@AtlasDerek Assuming that there isn't a problem with the blower motor or run capacitor there could be an issue with the low voltage control wiring, an intermittent door safety switch or other connection or safety device. You need to have a technician verify that there is power to the unit when the blower is failing to come on and if that is verified the low voltage control wiring needs to be checked to prove that the board is receiving control voltage from the thermostat. M@
mikie2501 5 months ago
@mikie2501 Mikie, I have a Carrier A/C that has a controller board that's frequently failing. Specifically, the Tyco Electronics Potter & Brumfield T9AV1D22-22-02 part is falling off the board. This is the third time that's happening.
AtlasDerek 5 months ago
ok so im currently getting a HVAC certificate at a tech school and im trying to decide if i should get an Industrial Electrical Maintenance Technical certificate after i get the HVAC one...would i get a better/ higher paying job if i have both certificates or would it not really make a difference?
5NOOPY615 5 months ago
Thanks for the video. I was able to determine my control board was bad and restore my blower.
You saved me $125 service call, plus another $700 in parts and labor.
qgayles 6 months ago
sorry n/o is the right one
MrAirdoctor 6 months ago
that was cool but to add a big wow factor try adding a 90380 fan relay and jumping y and c from board to relay coil and fan leads to n/o then your fan will work with the t-stat
MrAirdoctor 6 months ago
that was cool but to add a big wow factor try adding a 90380 fan relay and jumping y and c from board to relay coil and fan leads to n/c then your fan will work with the t-stat
MrAirdoctor 6 months ago
Just ohm out the motor windings. Much faster
leafs11cups 7 months ago
Haven't had AC in two days now. Replaced the blower motor and that wasn't the problem. Found out it's the control board. I used your video to show me how to bypass the board until I can get a new one tomorrow. The AC fired right up and is cooling nicely. A real life saver in this heat! Thank you.
LaneVines 7 months ago
@LaneVines I'm glad that the video was of great help! Remember folks that these videos that I am posting are for techs and that you are taking you life (and equipment) in your own hands if you go tinkering with things! Also, even though i've mentioned it many times before I will do so again, NEVER bypass the board in heating mode since you don't know if any of the safeties are dammaged! Better to buy/rent a small heater to sleep in a room than take a chance of the thing going boom! M@ :)
mikie2501 7 months ago
@mikie2501 Mike, thanks for the reply. In regards to your example in the video, what causes the board, motor and capacitor to all go out simultaneously? What have your experiences been in these situations.
LaneVines 7 months ago
@mikie2501 cool video bro!!! Let me ask you this. If the indoor blower motor never shuts off does that mean the Normally open on the fan relay is stuck together?
William82oct 7 months ago
PLEASE NEVER DO THIS TECHS, ITS AGAINST THE PRINCIPLES OF SAFETY! even though it does work for testing while your on the premises, never leave a unit rigged like this. You will pay! Ex: ok you got your door safety switch off now , if a little kid wants to pull the door of and stick his gi joe guy in a blower he'll never see his hand again! true story by the way... thanks for listening.
imcruisin95 7 months ago
@imcruisin95 Very good points! However if the reroute of wiring is done after
the power goes through the door switch the safety switch will still function as
it should and cut the power if the door is removed.
mikie2501 7 months ago
i just use an old fan relay i took off an old furnace,wire the thermostat fan wire to the 24v coil of it and a common,and then run your fan motor wires thru normally open contacts, now it works as it always does, fan shuts off and on with A/C .till you can get a new board.still take off the heat speed wire from the board.wiring the relay takes just a few minutes.
dbcooper714 7 months ago
I have a lennox gas unit, my new control board is a little different, like my old one has a fuse and this new panel does not. I want to install this panel myself, but I am a little concerned since it is some what different. any advice....thx
chererene 8 months ago
@chererene I know home owners frequently like to do their own repairs and as a general rule I tell them here to hire a tech to do the repairs for safety reasons but in this case you should ESPECIALLY make sure to get a technician to do the job. Gas furnaces are nothing to be playing around with and taking a chance on. You need a tech to make sure it's the right board, installed properly and ALL of the safeties and interlocks are functioning properly! Sorry this isn't the answer you wanted :/
mikie2501 8 months ago
I have a goodman ac unit that the blower motor cuts off an on about every 3 to 4 sec.I jumped the control board like on your video an the blower motor ran fine do you think it is the control board that is bad and is the time delay relay built in or not thanks.
neilro2 8 months ago
is it possible for a defrost board to also control the blower fan? i googled my goodman board part# and it was listed as a defrost board but I traced wires that are plugged into it back to the blower motor....my blower motor doesnt always come on, sometimes i have to restart the system then it will come on
dmb3428 8 months ago
@dmb3428 I'll need a bit more information that that I think, and need to make sure exactly what boards you are talking about and make sure you are talking about the same motor that I am. The defrost control board is on the outside condenser and is used with heat pump systems to control the indoor heat strips and the outside 'condenser fan motor', not the indoor blower motor.
mikie2501 8 months ago
@mikie2501 thanks for the response, i figured it out....the time delay relay was the problem
dmb3428 8 months ago
Great video. I have a question. Is it possible to determine whether it's the motor or the control board without bypassing the control board? I watched the video so I would have an idea of what was going on when the tech came out. He spent about 1 minute checking some connection points with an amp meter, and determined it was a bad motor.
juegosoccer8 8 months ago
Thanks. After a few hours I found the problem. Bad connection in the thermostat.
MegaAlphaDave 9 months ago
Comment removed
MegaAlphaDave 9 months ago
I have the same problem with an old Trane unit. The blower turns on with the heat but not with the A/C. The outdoor A/C unit is working, but the blower is not kicking on. What does that sound like?
MegaAlphaDave 9 months ago
@MegaAlphaDave That could be a number of things; relay is bad, burned wiring, dead run capacitor etc. etc...
You wil need to get a tech to come out and look at it! Michael
mikie2501 9 months ago
dude, awesome video. i came home to my inop blower on my trane unit. I am an automotive electrial specialist so i know my electrical. I had no 120v coming out of the board for the blower yet the compressor and outside fan were running strong so i suspected the control board. you confirmed my diagnosis and showed me how to easily "rig" it to work as this is memorial day weekend and i can not get any parts AT ALL till tuesday after memorial day. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!!
vmulisano 9 months ago
thanks for doing this video, i have the same problem, its central air, and the blower is lennox, the outside unit is Heil, it runs fine, but the indoor blower is not coming on at all, i checked all breakers, everything is on, still the blower wont come on,
will be a month before i have enought money saved up for repairs, at least seeing your video gives me the idea of what could be wrong with my unit, thanks
letseeitplease 9 months ago
@letseeitplease No problem, just remember that you should have a tech work on it, dangerous voltages and safties that have to be considered! Keep in mind it most likely is NOT a relay, more often than not it is a capacitor (easy fix) or worse, the blower motor.
mikie2501 9 months ago
@mikie2501 hey thanks mikie, well the repairman came out here and found it was not the blower motor, it was the board, he has the blower motor on a hot legg now so it will continue to run so i can at least have airconditioning, outside unit is doing fine, he is calling around for the best price on new board to be installed next month, thanks again for your information, it was helpful,
letseeitplease 9 months ago
I love HVAC, I'm 17 still learning, but so far i'm enjoying it.
FoxSight 1 year ago
Can someone please help me my house has no heat having fan problems. Please watch my video that i uploaded and give me some pointers please. I would really appreciate it.
GPShaxor 1 year ago
Just wire in a relay with the green and common low voltage wire.that way the motor will shut on and off...thats what I do until the board comes in...
mopar122969 1 year ago
hi, mikie i just replace control board on a armstrong furnace with a honeywellst9120u and the blower start even without a call for heat and keeps running, i have triple check and cant figure out any clue? thanks.
alex68aguilar 1 year ago
Great video, Mike. Thanks for doing that.
armorhelix 1 year ago
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viliumhevi 1 year ago
why didnt u spend a little more time on it and put a relay for the blower only to come on when it had a G call. two days with the blower on all day and nite really really
Comfort0502 1 year ago
my heating thermostat does not kick on accept at 80% & fans runs continouslya round old fashion thermostat
TheToosy 1 year ago
hi im a new student of HVAC and i have a cuestion maybe you can help me, whats the best for a domestic air handler a sleeve-bearing motor or a ball bearing motor for the same application? i think one is not good because of posible noise problem but im not sure thank you
alfebre1 1 year ago
Mikie, when I hard-wire the fan to the switch, the fan continues to short-cycle. Is there something else that can turn the fan on and off?
Thanks
MrKeith38120 1 year ago
What was the repair cost? I have the same problem
landrovermarv 1 year ago
I just installed a used unit, it worked for two weeks, then quit, in the lower left hand corner of the circuit board Its toasted, I did have two green lights, Now nothing, have od=rdered another board but am worried that what got the first on is laying in wait for my new board. loose neutral kill it? any suggestions? I dont want to blow up another board and busks.
huskerbird1 1 year ago
my condensor motor is stopping after ten fifteen minutes due to heat(cant touch the top of unit) I have replaced the motor and capacitator with no luck. At night it runs longer but still shuts down. Could this be relay switch or circuit board. When its running it runs cold as hell but only for short times
iac821 1 year ago
@iac821 Condener motor being the outside fan motor (just verifying our terminology here!) ....check the fan capacitor again to make sure it is ok, if the reading goes up and down and up and down on the cap then it might be a bad cap, I get those once in a while. If the capacitor is good and it it si the right cap for the motor then check the motor, sometimes I will see people put 1075rpm motors on units that SHOULD have 825rpm motors and they can't keep up. Right size motor? M@
mikie2501 1 year ago
@mikie2501 i have the exact same problem , except the condensor motor keeps shutting off on really hot days when i need it most, but on other days it runs fine
tnt2001 1 year ago
@iac821 make sure the horsepower rating is the same size as the stock motor. You could have a smaller horsepower motor tripping on thermal overload.
pingolfer05 1 year ago
@iac821 Can't believe I havent answered this one yet! If it is a new motor/capacitor then you might have the wrong motor installed. I've seen this happen where someone would install a, say, 1/4hp 1075 rpm motor and the thing has like 3 or 4 really big fan blades, ...unit was probably originally shipped with an 820 rpm 1/4 hp motor and can handle the stress load and the 1075 just overheats.
mikie2501 1 year ago
hi Mikie2501, I have problem w/ air handling system. the fan does not run. when checking the circuit breaker for air handling it tripped, I reset it but it trips again in less than 5 seconds. do you have any ideas what cause the breaker tripped. I went to the attic and inspected the control board, but could not figure out where the short circuit occurred. please help
teachmebetter 1 year ago
@teachmebetter If the air handler is blowing the breaker that quickly then you might have a high voltage short to ground. It could be something less dangerous but I suggest you call in a professional so that you don't electrocute yourself. I've had a few close calls from loose wiring that was difficult to see etc. So just be safe and make sure by getting a tech to look at this one! m@
mikie2501 1 year ago
@mikie2501, thank you for your input. I was able to fix it by replaced the motor.
teachmebetter 1 year ago
great viv mike thanks
grego10r 1 year ago
Thanks for the awesome idea. So the fan option of the board was bad. You bypassed the board to run the blower direct until the part came in. My only concern would be the constant operation of the blower. Great stuff. I worked on a similar circuit board but it was a much more simple fix. Dog had bit the 24 volt wires at the outdoor unit which in turn popped the fuse. I replaced it and it was good. Keep posting circuit board trouble shooting. Schooling does not teach too much on this area Thanks.
EA0223429 1 year ago
my issue is that the blower on my Lennox G40UH with a surelink circuit board only seems to run in low speed.
I tried a direct connection like you filmed and got the same low speed.
the led indicators on the circuit board indicate everything is OK, but the blower won't kick into high gear.
AFSGWR 1 year ago
This worked for me. Thanks for sharing.
-Ryan
rxdxh 1 year ago
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mikie2501, just can't say enough good things about this video. I'm a handy guy, but until I saw this it never clicked how the major parts of my heat/AC work together w/ black box. Our blower stopped 2 days ago in 100F weather while the compressor kept running, and by the time I realized no air was flowing in the house, the furnace room was a mess with moisture & frozen lines everywhere. Today I jumped the cool/high motor wire to 120V line and it was sweet relief. Me, my wife & baby thank you!
frexro 1 year ago
mikie2501, just can't say enough good things about this video. I'm a handy guy, but until I saw this it never clicked how the major parts of my heat/AC work together w/ black box. Our blower stopped 2 days ago in 100F weather while the compressor kept running, and by the time I realized no air was flowing in the house, the furnace room was a mess with moisture & frozen lines everywhere. Today I jumped the cool/high motor wire to 120V line and it was sweet relief. Me, my wife & baby thank you!
frexro 1 year ago
mikie2501, just can't say enough good things about this video. I'm a handy guy, but until I saw this it never clicked how the major parts of my heat/AC work together w/ black box. Our blower stopped 2 days ago in 100F weather while the compressor kept running, and by the time I realized no air was flowing in the house, the furnace room was a mess with moisture & frozen lines everywhere. Today I jumped the cool/high motor wire to 120V line and it was sweet relief. Me, my wife & baby thank you!
frexro 1 year ago
RED,used for cooling ? your kidding right !? the kids we train out of tech school know better , FOR THE RECORD : indoor blower red=low . blue=med . black= high .... yellow or white = common for motor .... these colors go back to sometime in the 70s before that it was not so simple . the wires often had number tags the service info would give the purpose for that numbered wire . please fix this video , bad information helps nobody
=
CactusBobsPlace 1 year ago
@CactusBobsPlace You are correct, when I did the video originally I commented at the beginning of the video that the wiring color was not correct and that the brown and red wires were just what I had at hand at the moment to use as an example on the board.
mikie2501 1 year ago
@CactusBobsPlace get over yourself. This video is VERY helpful unlike your useless nitpicking comment.
frexro 1 year ago
keep up the videos I need this kinda help;)
Darreo1 1 year ago
That white plug that you unplug from the board with all the colors code wires plug into. Well on my unit when I unplug that plug off from the board my blower work and i can hear my refigerant circulated, but when i plug that plug into the board i still hear refigerant circulated but blower dont come on. Why is that? It a new board also. It is good to had the blower run 24/7? Thanks for advise.
haivang1 1 year ago
I bench tested blower motor as suggested. it calculates well. I omhed out black lead to motor shell, got continuity after pulling motor from unit. originally blower motor did not come on during call for cooling or fan/on. I jumped R to G, still fan did not come on. Please Advice!
14KJEWELRYREPAIR 1 year ago
@14KJEWELRYREPAIR I honlestly don't remember this conversation <lol> ...this may require an email with more writing space) Calculates well?? ..if the black lead has continuity to the shell then the motor is shorted to ground. (bad) ...mght email me with the full details again if you haven't already (sorry my memory is horrid!)
mikie2501 1 year ago
Thermostat maybe...whats the voltage of the unit and control voltage? Transformer might be wired 230 instead of 208 v causing not enough va to pull in both relay coils.
jaepee57 1 year ago
for some reason my blower stopped working i unplugged G and R and jumped G to R then the fan would kick on but the compressor wouldnt work, then i put the wires back and the compressor works but not the fan, I plugg 2 wires into the R and both the fan and compressor and working now. Any idea what could be my problem ? relay ? how do i trouble shoot that.
everypipecom 1 year ago
@everypipecom It might be the actual thermostat that is bad if when u jump the wires they turn on
beaver1232 1 year ago
Hey I got a quick question, I have that exact board you demonstrated with in this video. There is a jumper setting for the fan time delay, its set at 0 by the factory (meaning it turns off when the condensing unit turns off) why can't it be set at 80 seconds? (the other setting) Wouldn't it be more efficient?
partypalooza5 1 year ago
thanks keep making these videos again thanks ;)
tkbone69 1 year ago
@tkbone69 You can do that. Removes remaining cool air from the duct system (or warm air) and get a little extra out of it :>
mikie2501 1 year ago
Very educational. Thanks.
MuminE13 1 year ago
you can see the bad spot on the board just to the left of the white rodgers logo
vector00234 1 year ago
good video. keep em coming
thereceman 2 years ago
Coach2269 your a jackass
Oxfordtrain 2 years ago 4
Great information, I really get good info from your videos. As a newby in the buisness these videos really come in handy.
chasmc421 2 years ago
wat about using a meter to check for power.red isnt used for cooling.what should the voltage be. wat should be looking for.why not just remove the control wire to heat. I can already tell you have no business do this even though your heart is in the rite place. but all your doing is showing that all negative perceptions of a/c techs are true. please STOP devalueing our trade.
coach2269 2 years ago
my old teach was called coach. haha. your remarks on these vids i've notice and your questioning reminds me of things he would ask.
death2opposeme 1 year ago
well all of you geniuses , you guys need to understand that all it ty=akes is 1 touch of the wrong wire with power on or off . so save money and to hell with your life. do you think your heart can take any amont of electricity all it takes is enough to dirupt the heart beat. but i guess $120 will get it to beat again.
coach2269 2 years ago
.5 of an amp can arrest the heart
death2opposeme 1 year ago
yeh i have done this hundred of times another way of doing it so that it does shut on and off when your stat calls get a relay and run the green wire for the fan to the low voltage on the relay and the high voltage to the open terminals properly marked on the relay itself and when the low voltage is applied to the relay it closes the connection and the fan comes on once the stat has satisfied fan goes off good for a temp fix and have stupidly even seen as a permanent fix
veloc85 2 years ago
can you email me about a new ICM 272 fan runs constant i will email a diag of it wired
4WHEELOVER 2 years ago
Ran into the same issue on the furnace at my parent's house a couple years ago.
The repair cost nothing, I happened to have a suitable replacement relay in my parts bin, so I got the soldering iron out and swapped in the good one, popped the board back in and all good to go!
It always comes in handy to be able to do board/component level repairs, saved so much money throughout the years on various broken things (appliances, consumer electronics, etc).
TehMG 2 years ago
Great video. I had a no heat, and the relay was gone on the board. It was a cold night for the customer till we can get the replacement board next day. I mention it to my boss and he gives me hell for not wiring the motor in directly to line so they have heat...I dont know about him--but I worked hard to earn my license and am trying not to mess it up...
johnt22007 2 years ago
There are a lot of boards with the xformer primary sitting right next to the L1 for primary power that you could disconnect the primary xformer hot leg and connect your high speed motor hot lead to. The two spades are soldered together. Thought I would throw that out to other technicians. I've come across safety switches that have the lead soldered inside and there's no spade connector.
Rueuhy 2 years ago
Good video, Please show the video that you rebuild the bearings if you have a chance ?. Thank you very much.
khonglap 2 years ago
this board sucks they are always going bad
beajpaduvall 2 years ago
Another great presentation Mike.
VanWestComfortHVAC 2 years ago
I can't believe you took the time to make this video and thank I was blessed enough to find it. A HVAC expert visited my house this weekend and for $100, mis-diagnosed the issue and wanted to charge $1000 more for the BS repairs. Also, not having the parts left me, a pregnant wife, and a 2 year old without AC in the heat. Using your method, I resolved MY OWN issue and can repair for $120. I can tell you that I don't care one IOTA about the blower running until the part gets here. THANKS THANKS
evanssd1yt 2 years ago 3
When you replace this kind of boards do you label every single wire (in case you don't have exact replacement)?
fyescas777 2 years ago
Very seldom have I done that. Like 2 times I think. usually if the board isn't an exact replacment it's kind of close. Usually you can sit outside in the comfort of your truck when you go back and sit in the cool air and read through the instructions, figure out changes that they want you to make, etc. The 2 times I have marked everything were on really old systems and the new boards were radically different and I had to change some wire lengths too. NO fun in a hot attic!!
mikie2501 2 years ago
its the kind of board you call a service company to fix or replace you cheap basterd
jmgeorge721 2 years ago
You spelled bastard wrong, bastard... By the way I an hvac tech, I just wanted to know other tech's way of doing work. There might be a few with photographic memory out there. But like always, there one in a bunch who only feels tough enough to insult some one without knowing them. They only exist on line and you are one of them. You may answer back but what ever you say doesn't matter because you just proved to be a bastard.
fyescas777 2 years ago
good video
carlosmaderahvactech 2 years ago
Great video. HVAC RULES!
DethAng3l 2 years ago
a nice video i had the same problem with my aunt's control board the other day i did the same thing but i didnt had a three way conector so i only let the motor on until i went for the control board.
narutoghostrider 2 years ago
how to replace the board?
brownparents 2 years ago
do i have to replace the whole board or some component, if the blower fan is not working?
brownparents 2 years ago
Lame! Use a damn 5 dollar relay, it's alot safer and can still be controlled by theG wire. duh! You suck.
alguerr1980 2 years ago
That was a rude way to state that!
infinityak 2 years ago
good ideas here with the doorswitch.
AdvCont 2 years ago
nice demonstration I like the idea of wiring straight into the doorswitch, Ive never tried that one. As far as running the blower 24-7 how bout just putting on a temporary 24volt relay, that way it operates normally by thermostat.
abilahvac 2 years ago
That's been mentioned before and I've been meaning to do a demo video of that. Actually been meaning to rig up a 'relay in a box' with pigtails and all that I can reuse for just such a situation. On my round-to-it list! hehe
mikie2501 2 years ago
Hello, have you made a video? how can i rig up a relay? do you have wireing diagram how to set up relay?
Also i jump R & G connectores to gether and fan turns on, but i am getting a hot air from A/C, does that mean relay or board is bad?
ufoarea52 2 years ago
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hvacrdude1 2 years ago
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hvacrdude1 2 years ago
cant you just for voltage, rather than doing the other stuff? then do what you did to get them going for awhile until you get the part? To me that is much easier and quicker. No power out of board, it's straight forward, bad board.
mja0182 2 years ago
thats what i was tough ..but you still have to check the motor...
armyace06 2 years ago
pretty good video. Mickie!
AirCoolCalifornia 3 years ago
Comment removed
AirCoolCalifornia 3 years ago
Hey, Pretty cool idea on testing the motor by putting high on the door switch.
I'm gonna use that if you don't mind !
i don't know about leaving the fan run 24/7though. unless you told the customer how to turn it off. breaker or unplug it.? ok then.
i Probably would of got a contactor off the truck and took the green wire to contactor coil.other to common. door switch to contactor. whala done. two screws into cabinet for temporary affixing of contactor.
Pretty cool video!
OcRefrigeration 3 years ago
You disconnected the low speed wire from the board and tied it off to the side in case the customer were to turn their furnace on at some point.
I see your reasoning behind this, but wouldn't it have been just as safe to of placed the low speed wire on a park terminal on the control board?
CarlLewenski 3 years ago
Doh! Absolutely :)
mikie2501 3 years ago
I don't like the idea of leaving a motor running 24/7 until you got that board. You should have gotten a separate fan relay and installed that to the high speed fan wire instead. I think that would have left the customer a bit more comfortable. Besides, leaving the fan on all the time creates more heat when the condenser isn't on by blowing the motors own heat into a home, therefore causing the a/c to cut on more often, which equals to a high energy bill.
memoj214 3 years ago
HvacrTalk . com welcomes Techs contractors and consumers to join free and discuss and trade info and learn meet others in the trade. good links and resources...all you need is a valid email to activate your account.
hvacrdude1 3 years ago
Oh HELL no! (holding back tears while laughing) That would MAKE SENSE!!
I've never really payed much attention to the 12 pin plug though, just make sure you read the instructions with any board change out because sometimes they make changes or what you to jumper things around if its a modified board, not usually though.
T-stat to unit to condenser wiring though is whatever color the installed thought was a good flavor of the day! Usually it's all the same though.
mikie2501 3 years ago
I have a chart in the truck in a binder book to remind me of stupid thing. Like on most thermostats O is for the reversing valve, some systems use B though, others like Trane etc B is actually COMMON! Doh!
X on some units is common and on others X or X2 is emergency heat! No telling what colors will be giong to this stuff.
mikie2501 3 years ago
Is the 12 pin plug universal? I mean, are the colors always the same for ALL units, yellow for outdoor fan and comp, green for indoor fan, white neutral... etc..etc.??
fyescas777 3 years ago
I love these educational videos!!
fyescas777 3 years ago
hey mike2501 great job keep the great videos coming, im learning
plzure4u 3 years ago
Will do, and thanks for watching! It's a lot more fun making the videos than trying to figure something out in someones hot ass attic! I'll have to do a video later about job safety I think! Mike
mikie2501 3 years ago
Jim you get up entirely too early in the morning, hehehe :)
mikie2501 3 years ago
Gotta love Goodman.
DrZarkloff 3 years ago