before your ready to rebuild it or machine it,dump it in a bucket or tube of Molassis,mixed 1 part to 9 parts water,let it sit in the bucket 2 weeks and powerwash it to remove all rust,looks like new.Its safe to use,unlike acid.
I'll try that. The used ATF usually gets discarded. I've been using a lanolin based product which is especially good in a salt spray environment. Peter, NZ.
Good tip! I'll give it a try. I have found that tung oil (or any of the so-called danish oils, etc.) work great for preventing rust on my tools and machines. Of course, you wouldn't use it for engines but it's great for tools around the shop. It's infinitely better than wax or oil.
@ZoneIII The tools are important aren't they? I have used tung oil in the past in other applications and definitely found it to have superior qualities. Thanks for your comment!
Because transmission oil is much much more thicker and would not thin out easily as engine oil. If you could use those transmission oil modifier which is so thick like gel, it would work even better. But i brushed on grease on metal if i want to store them for long periods of time.
@KrankieV2 Yeah they can have the strict gun laws, that is probably how the Nazis got into power once upon a time but I'll save that discussion for another type of video. God bless American freedom.
@Hallaran You're right about that! But it wasn't just the Nazis that got into power after first banning guns. Too bad we have a president who would like to take all guns away from law-abiding citizens. He was on the board of the Joyce Foundation and dispensed millions of dollars to gun-ban groups.
Actually if it has a light rust coating before oiling or puting WD 40 on it , it actual helps in preventing further rust formation , and removeing the light rust is actually detremental, just as a blued steel surface is more resistent to rust and is a form of rust itself , the poreous nature of rust helps hold oil or rust preventives in place,so if has a light coating of rust on it it's better to leave it untill your ready to use the parts ,then clean them.
@kamphwagon1 Makes sense. I notice in my climate where certain metals rust faster / slower then others too. Might be the hardness of the metal? Or maybe the percentage of iron content. I have an old engine block coated with cosmoline that is totally rust-free, seems like this is a very nice rust deterent, only issue is getting it off takes a lot of boiling in hot water to do so.
@Hallaran That cosmoline is good stuff the military has used it for eons , but like you say a pain in the butt to remove, lots of hot boiling water, a little detergent also helps . The way I used to clean up oifeild pipe conections and tools was soapy boiling water with deisel added to it in a vat made from half of a 55 gal barrel. With a minimum of work from a scrub brush it'l remove all but the most stuborn asphalt & parifin deposits. Carefull if your useing a open flame to heat the water !
@kamphwagon1 From what I can see the stuff holds on to the metal very tightly. The soap must help to remove the cosmoline faster? Would a lye based soap work better then just a standard brand soap?
@Hallaran Well any lye or caustic will hep but one needs to remember ferious metal only , the sodium phosphate might be a good choice to add in with the soap & water ,it's worth a try, rubber gloves and eye protection would be in order any way you go at it, I'm not sure about how trisodium phosphate reacts with aluminum or brass. Caustic soda ash or beads can be found at any drilling mud supply providing you have oil drillers in your aera.
@kamphwagon1 I'll check it out, my father used to use lye to clean things but I know it was pretty tough stuff. I don't mind messing with "hot stuff", my only concern is to stay away from the carcinogenic stuff!
@Hallaran LOL lye is a pretty good paint stripper as well , yeah some of that solvent stuff like MEK and others that contain apreciable amounts of benzene, some of that stuff is pretty nasty. Even oil on your hands or face can get that carcinogenic thing going on esp on light skined or red headed folks, and realy raises the chances when you mix in some strong sun light ! I always keep a rag or two in my pocket to keep it wiped off esp splaters on my face.
@kamphwagon1 Yes, it is good to have a few safety things going on, I always keep the shop well venilated, (I keep one large fan blowing air out of the shop) and I have plenty of old, clean rags close by. When I use my bead blaster I always wear approved air filtration so I am not sucking any polutants into my lungs. Some of those citrus based cleaners work fairly well too....
@Hallaran Belive it or not that citrus can be a pretty big eye irritant, not esp dangerous but still a concern, if you ever peal a orange and have some of that juice in the peal get into your eyes you'l know where I'm comeing from LOL
@kamphwagon1 That is one good reason to have safety glasses on while working with any of this stuff. I know a guy that had one of those little gas powered airplanes running and the propeller broke sending one piece into his eye. He now has one eye that does not see anymore. Not worth it to work without some kind of eye protection IMHO. (Anyways - "I got my glasses on!")
@Hallaran Yeah those model engines can be rather dangerous , esp those larger RC engines that have Shurnell porting and rear intakes ,rotory valve, their HP RPM potentials are way up there, a .60 cid engine can produce in excess of 3 hp with rpms going past 20 grand and can blow a propeller with their tremedious acceleration of going from idle to high rpm , and back flexing and snaping a blade off, LOL Iv'e got a Picco P.67 in my collection thats notorious for blowing props !
@kamphwagon1 Yes I am almost certain the fellow that had the accident is legally blind in the eye that was struck by the propeller, my prayers are with him - it is so unfortunate that a thing like a Hobby has to have such an unfortunate outcome. It is accidents like this that remind me to be very careful whenever I am working around any kind of machinery. Wow, an RC engine with a rotary valve, last I looked at them I was marvelling at the Jets!
@Hallaran Yes unfortunate, but never place any body parts esp your head to the side of one of these, those rotary valves have been around for quite a while ,instead of drilling and cuting a window in the frount of the crank or useing a reed valve theres a rotary disk with the intake slot & a notch that fits in against crank throw to drive it , Ducattia the Italian motorcycle co had a rotary valved 4 cycle engine at one time. Most chain saw engines use the piston skirt as a slide intake valve
@kamphwagon1 I rode Ducati motorcycles but never had the chance to use their chainsaws. I see there is a an interesting chainsaw collectors site out there now on the Web called: Chain Saw Collectors Corner. Here is their blurb for anyone interested: A resource for all collectors of antique chain saws and those who work towards the preservation of the history of the Chain Saw Industry. It is also intended as a resource for Chain Saw Dealers who wish to identify a saw model or "date" a saw.
@Hallaran cont .Also I always did it outside ! and cut the heat off before adding the diesel once the water was boiling ! You could add caustic to the soap & water as long as you keep non ferious parts like aluminum or brass out of it, but you run the risk of caustic burns if you get any on you , it'l also take any old paint off while your at it, but then again paint strippers contain caustic unless there formulated for non ferious metal use,then they use a lot of things like MEK in the mix.
@kamphwagon1 You have me thinking, I wonder how trisodium phosphate would work? I have used it successfully in cleaning many things from walls to engine cooling systems. It removed grease, grime and rust very well. It was hard on my skin, I tried my best to keep it off of me.
@Bikeman1087 WD-40 is the trademark name of a widely-available water-displacing spray developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen, founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, San Diego, California. It was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion,[1] and later was found to have numerous household uses.
WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement - 40th Attempt".The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.
@Hallaran Yes I have seen it. I currently got about 600ml's of wd40,spray cans in garage. Compared to crc 5-56, maston multispray, wd40 is much cheaper.
Some people say that wd40 is bad for motorcycle chain cleaning, but in reality with my experience it's much more friendly than most of these spray can chain cleaners. I was thinking about making a video about this as provement, chain cleaner vs wd40. Unfortunately I suffer of fear publicity/speech anxiety. Gotta keep trying to fight against it.
@Bikeman1087 There are a lot of special applications "a solvent" might be needed for. Some need to lubricate and clean at the same time. It amazes me as to how many different products there are out there. I am always eager to try new ones too. I haven't tried Amsoil yet but I hear that is a great synthetic oil for crankcase use...
I just bought a 5 galen of molasses, I'll record it and let you guys now, follow my vids, thanks :-)
DirtyRailers 3 weeks ago
@DirtyRailers Looking forward to see the video and results - thanks!
Hallaran 3 weeks ago
before your ready to rebuild it or machine it,dump it in a bucket or tube of Molassis,mixed 1 part to 9 parts water,let it sit in the bucket 2 weeks and powerwash it to remove all rust,looks like new.Its safe to use,unlike acid.
inagod 1 month ago
@inagod You say you have used molasses? Never heard of this before - interesting.
Hallaran 1 month ago
I'll try that. The used ATF usually gets discarded. I've been using a lanolin based product which is especially good in a salt spray environment. Peter, NZ.
peteacher52 1 month ago
@peteacher52 Thanks for the tip on the lanolin, I'll give it a try.
Hallaran 1 month ago
Good tip! I'll give it a try. I have found that tung oil (or any of the so-called danish oils, etc.) work great for preventing rust on my tools and machines. Of course, you wouldn't use it for engines but it's great for tools around the shop. It's infinitely better than wax or oil.
ZoneIII 3 months ago
@ZoneIII The tools are important aren't they? I have used tung oil in the past in other applications and definitely found it to have superior qualities. Thanks for your comment!
Hallaran 3 months ago
Why not just coat it in engine oil...?
sweetlikeADAM 3 months ago
@sweetlikeADAM Did not seem to work as well as the transmission fluid....
Hallaran 3 months ago
@sweetlikeADAM
Because transmission oil is much much more thicker and would not thin out easily as engine oil. If you could use those transmission oil modifier which is so thick like gel, it would work even better. But i brushed on grease on metal if i want to store them for long periods of time.
netmatrix75 2 months ago
@netmatrix75 Where do you find it?
Hallaran 2 months ago
Thanks dude--I soak rustey parts in it too--save your trans fluid
350oldschool 4 months ago
rust in a month? haha in NY i have seen surface rust appear over night.
KrankieV2 4 months ago
@KrankieV2 Close to the ocean?
Hallaran 4 months ago
@Hallaran Nope. Central NY.
KrankieV2 4 months ago
@KrankieV2 Great part of the USA!
Hallaran 4 months ago
@Hallaran Yep, I wouldn't trade it for anything... the only parts I don't like about it are rusty cars and very strict gun laws
KrankieV2 4 months ago
@KrankieV2 Yeah they can have the strict gun laws, that is probably how the Nazis got into power once upon a time but I'll save that discussion for another type of video. God bless American freedom.
Hallaran 4 months ago
Comment removed
ZoneIII 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@Hallaran You're right about that! But it wasn't just the Nazis that got into power after first banning guns. Too bad we have a president who would like to take all guns away from law-abiding citizens. He was on the board of the Joyce Foundation and dispensed millions of dollars to gun-ban groups.
ZoneIII 3 months ago
Actually if it has a light rust coating before oiling or puting WD 40 on it , it actual helps in preventing further rust formation , and removeing the light rust is actually detremental, just as a blued steel surface is more resistent to rust and is a form of rust itself , the poreous nature of rust helps hold oil or rust preventives in place,so if has a light coating of rust on it it's better to leave it untill your ready to use the parts ,then clean them.
kamphwagon1 1 year ago
@kamphwagon1 Makes sense. I notice in my climate where certain metals rust faster / slower then others too. Might be the hardness of the metal? Or maybe the percentage of iron content. I have an old engine block coated with cosmoline that is totally rust-free, seems like this is a very nice rust deterent, only issue is getting it off takes a lot of boiling in hot water to do so.
Hallaran 1 year ago
@Hallaran That cosmoline is good stuff the military has used it for eons , but like you say a pain in the butt to remove, lots of hot boiling water, a little detergent also helps . The way I used to clean up oifeild pipe conections and tools was soapy boiling water with deisel added to it in a vat made from half of a 55 gal barrel. With a minimum of work from a scrub brush it'l remove all but the most stuborn asphalt & parifin deposits. Carefull if your useing a open flame to heat the water !
kamphwagon1 1 year ago
@kamphwagon1 From what I can see the stuff holds on to the metal very tightly. The soap must help to remove the cosmoline faster? Would a lye based soap work better then just a standard brand soap?
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran Well any lye or caustic will hep but one needs to remember ferious metal only , the sodium phosphate might be a good choice to add in with the soap & water ,it's worth a try, rubber gloves and eye protection would be in order any way you go at it, I'm not sure about how trisodium phosphate reacts with aluminum or brass. Caustic soda ash or beads can be found at any drilling mud supply providing you have oil drillers in your aera.
kamphwagon1 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 I'll check it out, my father used to use lye to clean things but I know it was pretty tough stuff. I don't mind messing with "hot stuff", my only concern is to stay away from the carcinogenic stuff!
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran LOL lye is a pretty good paint stripper as well , yeah some of that solvent stuff like MEK and others that contain apreciable amounts of benzene, some of that stuff is pretty nasty. Even oil on your hands or face can get that carcinogenic thing going on esp on light skined or red headed folks, and realy raises the chances when you mix in some strong sun light ! I always keep a rag or two in my pocket to keep it wiped off esp splaters on my face.
kamphwagon1 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 Yes, it is good to have a few safety things going on, I always keep the shop well venilated, (I keep one large fan blowing air out of the shop) and I have plenty of old, clean rags close by. When I use my bead blaster I always wear approved air filtration so I am not sucking any polutants into my lungs. Some of those citrus based cleaners work fairly well too....
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran Belive it or not that citrus can be a pretty big eye irritant, not esp dangerous but still a concern, if you ever peal a orange and have some of that juice in the peal get into your eyes you'l know where I'm comeing from LOL
kamphwagon1 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 That is one good reason to have safety glasses on while working with any of this stuff. I know a guy that had one of those little gas powered airplanes running and the propeller broke sending one piece into his eye. He now has one eye that does not see anymore. Not worth it to work without some kind of eye protection IMHO. (Anyways - "I got my glasses on!")
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran Yeah those model engines can be rather dangerous , esp those larger RC engines that have Shurnell porting and rear intakes ,rotory valve, their HP RPM potentials are way up there, a .60 cid engine can produce in excess of 3 hp with rpms going past 20 grand and can blow a propeller with their tremedious acceleration of going from idle to high rpm , and back flexing and snaping a blade off, LOL Iv'e got a Picco P.67 in my collection thats notorious for blowing props !
kamphwagon1 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 Yes I am almost certain the fellow that had the accident is legally blind in the eye that was struck by the propeller, my prayers are with him - it is so unfortunate that a thing like a Hobby has to have such an unfortunate outcome. It is accidents like this that remind me to be very careful whenever I am working around any kind of machinery. Wow, an RC engine with a rotary valve, last I looked at them I was marvelling at the Jets!
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran Yes unfortunate, but never place any body parts esp your head to the side of one of these, those rotary valves have been around for quite a while ,instead of drilling and cuting a window in the frount of the crank or useing a reed valve theres a rotary disk with the intake slot & a notch that fits in against crank throw to drive it , Ducattia the Italian motorcycle co had a rotary valved 4 cycle engine at one time. Most chain saw engines use the piston skirt as a slide intake valve
kamphwagon1 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 vv
Hallaran 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 I rode Ducati motorcycles but never had the chance to use their chainsaws. I see there is a an interesting chainsaw collectors site out there now on the Web called: Chain Saw Collectors Corner. Here is their blurb for anyone interested: A resource for all collectors of antique chain saws and those who work towards the preservation of the history of the Chain Saw Industry. It is also intended as a resource for Chain Saw Dealers who wish to identify a saw model or "date" a saw.
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran Ducati called that rotary valved engine a decible engine ,supposed to be a real high rpm screamer!.......
kamphwagon1 11 months ago
@kamphwagon1 I'd like to see a video on one running...
Hallaran 11 months ago
@Hallaran cont .Also I always did it outside ! and cut the heat off before adding the diesel once the water was boiling ! You could add caustic to the soap & water as long as you keep non ferious parts like aluminum or brass out of it, but you run the risk of caustic burns if you get any on you , it'l also take any old paint off while your at it, but then again paint strippers contain caustic unless there formulated for non ferious metal use,then they use a lot of things like MEK in the mix.
kamphwagon1 1 year ago
@kamphwagon1 You have me thinking, I wonder how trisodium phosphate would work? I have used it successfully in cleaning many things from walls to engine cooling systems. It removed grease, grime and rust very well. It was hard on my skin, I tried my best to keep it off of me.
Hallaran 11 months ago
wow oil protects metal from rust . thanks i didnt know that.
baggyaxewound 1 year ago
@baggyaxewound It works great for me in the humid part of the country I live in...
Hallaran 1 year ago
@baggyaxewound An old mechanic told me about it... Thanks
Hallaran 11 months ago
I have used wd40 many times and it seems to protect against rust. It also works for cleaning old oil grime.
Bikeman1087 1 year ago
@Bikeman1087 Have you ever seen the many uses of WD40? It is incredible all the things it can be used for...
Hallaran 1 year ago
@Hallaran Depends of what incredible things?.
I have used wd40 for:
-Cleaning my motorcycle chain. Not good for lubricating motorcycle chains.
-Protect against rust. Makes also easier to remove corroded bolts.
-Fix electric corrosion.
-Lubricate few locks. But for lock lubrication, better is gun oil spray.
-Lubricated and stopped door hinges from whining.
Similar product is crc 5-56 multispray(less spray pressure), of course there are many similar products from other brands.
Bikeman1087 1 year ago
@Bikeman1087 I think I read somewhere that it was even being used as fuel to start and run engines, a bit extreme.
Hallaran 1 year ago
@Bikeman1087 WD-40 is the trademark name of a widely-available water-displacing spray developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen, founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, San Diego, California. It was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion,[1] and later was found to have numerous household uses.
WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement - 40th Attempt".The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.
Hallaran 1 year ago
@Hallaran Yes I have seen it. I currently got about 600ml's of wd40,spray cans in garage. Compared to crc 5-56, maston multispray, wd40 is much cheaper.
Some people say that wd40 is bad for motorcycle chain cleaning, but in reality with my experience it's much more friendly than most of these spray can chain cleaners. I was thinking about making a video about this as provement, chain cleaner vs wd40. Unfortunately I suffer of fear publicity/speech anxiety. Gotta keep trying to fight against it.
Bikeman1087 1 year ago
@Bikeman1087 There are a lot of special applications "a solvent" might be needed for. Some need to lubricate and clean at the same time. It amazes me as to how many different products there are out there. I am always eager to try new ones too. I haven't tried Amsoil yet but I hear that is a great synthetic oil for crankcase use...
Hallaran 1 year ago
@Hallaran Nice quote directly from the WD-40 website.
nutsfor1022s 1 year ago
@nutsfor1022s Direct is good! :-)
Hallaran 11 months ago
@wolfsheadoil Thanks!
Hallaran 1 year ago
would it work on exterior paint surfaces on the frame?
badgerbuddy 1 year ago
@badgerbuddy I have used it on rust but do not know how well it would work in paint.Paint may need a stripper type preparation.
Hallaran 1 year ago
Thank for the information. Take look
At my videos. Nykkytta
Nykkytta 1 year ago
@Nykkytta will do.
Hallaran 1 year ago
wow .....u have alot of stuff
dragracing3508 1 year ago
@dragracing3508 Thanks
Hallaran 1 year ago
just declared war on rust
marvesmarves 2 years ago
@marvesmarves it works good in the places you can't get to like inside gas tanks.
Hallaran 1 year ago
WD40...the gov't ordered tons of the stuff to protect missile skins because they couldn't find anything better.
douro20 2 years ago
@douro20 interesting...
Hallaran 1 year ago
lol this is a great tip i know why it works that way to the gear oils so thick it stays on there an prtects the metal
Andalite789 2 years ago
@Andalite789 If you don't blast it right away it won't rust on you again!
Hallaran 1 year ago
great tip man hah ive been using oil and grease but yah good idea man! THANKS ALOTTTT
NRP1991 2 years ago
@NRP1991 The zinc phosphate keeps it rust free.
Hallaran 1 year ago
good tip thanks !
wesley5138 2 years ago
@wesley5138 Thank you!
Hallaran 1 year ago