RAN OUT OF ROOM...lol....AND another thing im curently building a 430HP 355 SBC 1500-6500RPM screaming machine and i know how mutch a motor like that cost (going into a 2wd c10) anyway i wanted a nice rebuilt motor like the on in the vidio all painted up new cam cleaned up valve seal work so it dosnt burn all its oil when first start...OH yeah gets warm and burns oil and has about 15 PSI oil...IT was a MUD TRUCK but im a better owner and dont rod the piss outa old things that are tired lol
GREAT vids really helped instaling a chevy 350 in a k1500 BUT i have a SERIUS (bad spelling) QUESTION i own a 77 full time 4x4 chevy truck with a 350 (edelbrock EPS intake Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb Some kinda aftermartet cam.) My question IS to rebuild, Bore .040 get the crank worked on the rods worked on and (of corse) New pistonswith the kit like 2-$300 how mutch total would it run...YEAH i know each machine shop is diferent(OHH im building it BTW not them)oh and head work valvle seals
This "moving the oil pump drive" is nonsense. Just drop the dist in close as you can get, bump the starter until it falls in, then come around and recheck the timing marks and distributor position. Most of the time you can anticipate where it will "change." If not, EASY, just rotate the dist one gear tooth which way you need, bump again to drop it in, and you're done
@ChukyG863 Sorry to hear that. Not sure exactly what you mean by that, but this is not really meant to teach you everything you need for this procedure. If you haven't noticed yet, by all the other comments & videos, this is a "trailer" or sample. It's part of a full 3 1/2 hour DVD that takes you from disassembly all the way to install and breaking in your motor. Before following instructions, make sure you have the entire set of material at hand first.
hey i wondering if you can let me know when a engine cranks over slow does it mean that its stuck ................. i have a new battery and new parts on it and still wont start do i have to move the Distributor cap around to get a better crank or faster crank on it
@Mr559TAVO If the engine cranks slowly, it shouldn't be stuck. If the crank or a piston was frozen in place, you wouldn't hear the engine 'turning over' at all.
You can use our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD to guide you through all of the procedures leading up to and including the distributor install...or, you can check out our two videos here on YT concerning the distributor and ignition set-up. Both sample vids are from our 'BEB' DVD.
@Mr559TAVO If you loosen your distributor, then start your engine, sligthly twist it back and forth and if it is too far to one side, then the engine will run slower, you want to get it right between the left and right stalling points. In other words you want to have the engine run the fastest out of all the positions you can twist the distributor. i hope this helped you. -Ray.
I bought a new cap, roter and wires for my 1.8L 4 Cyl. but when i aligned it to TDC (not exhaust) i set up the firing order and double checked and my car still wont turn over? Any suggestions?
Is there an oil seal on the distributor? Because I have an oil leak coming from the area of the bottom of my distributor and I want to take it out to see if I can change the seal. Is there anything I should know before doing this? I think that I have to mark the distributor position with a marker or something before I take it out and not the plug wire positions but is there anything else I should wory about?
i have a 350 engine that was just built for me im fairly new to the engine building thing i am trying to put on the distributor how do i go by priming the oil pump once i put on the distributor and is there a certain way the distributor post should be turned im not sure what its called but the piece stickn out from the distributor should it be on the left side or right side
i took a 351 0ut of a ford bronco fuel injected and put it into a mustang carberated but i used the same distributor do i need to change distributors cuz i went from fuel injected to carberated cuz it doesnt rev up right and it just dont seem right
@BoxWrench i changed the distributor to the old style like a 75 ford 351w im trying to hook up the ignition box the lil aluminum box that powered the coil but i cant get good spark idk if its hooked up right is there a diagram somewhere or do u know how to do it
You switched from a computer controll fuel injection system to a carb, first off why EFI is alot more potential with a aftermarket ECU. As for the distributor, first question is did the distributor belong to the bronco or the mustange. If it was from the bronco then it wont function correctly if the Advance is controlled by the ECU. If it was from the mustang readjust adjust the advance curve to the engine specs and tweek it from there.
@Lokivoid im in the middle of changing distributors i changed to old style with the ignition bax and vaccum advance but im not getting good spark from my coil and i know my coil is good is there a diagram for hooking that up
Describe the symptoms your having, is ignition not starting at all and just dumping gas or is it just idleing rough? Theres really not much of a wireing diagram for a old style coil setup unless you using a MEI style even then its normaly only 4 leads two for the tach and two for power. Just make sure there all have a secure connection and insolated so the spark isnt grounding out befor reaching the plugs.
That design is absolute crap, not only would it lack power. it would breakdown due to friction at low RPM. Your video was also not relivent to the conversation or this video. so i am also flagging you for advertisement spam.
Thanks very much for making this video super easy to follow along with easy to understand descriptions, instructions as well as showing how the parts engage and fit together!
I have a feeling I'm going to be spending a lot of time on this channel... lol
You wouldn't install a distributor from one engine make into another...
You can however use this video to help you learn how to install any distributor type into it's matched engine type.
You would need to set any piston engine to the Top Dead Center position for the #1 cylinder, adjust the crankshaft to the recommended initial timing advance setting and then install the distributor.
When you know the distributor rotation and firing order of the engine as well, you can finish the plug wiring
i go to votec, a tech college and i needed to put the timeing to tdc so my teacher told me to take the 1st spark plug out and stick a screwdriver in it and turn the motor over and when u feel the piston push against the screwdriver that it is top dead center so hope this helps
Hello BoxWrench. I was wondering, what brand is that needle-style torque wrench you use in your videos? I need to buy one but don't know which one is good quality. thanks a lot.
Some people stick their finger in the spark plug hole to feel the compression while you crank it. When you feel the compression, you line it up to 0. Even though you can leave the valve cover on, I don't like this method because the engine cranks over extremely fast and will pass TDC when you let off the key or remote starter. Then you gotta crank the motor backwards by hand, which you shouldn't be doing. The valve cover method is more accurate. Good luck!!
Every once in a while, here at YouTube, we get some all-pro builders making comments about how our instructions are for novices...we kinda figure that's the point here.
YouTube is full of many who would like to learn or haven't ever seen this kind of stuff before.
We're all about getting someone started on a trip of discovering new information.
My apology's, I was a little quick to post such advise in my previous posts. I pulled my comments so my info wouldn't get into the wrong hands. I appreciate what you do for the people who aren't in the know, and would like to learn. Everybody starts as a novice. Teaching theory, and the correct way of performing a task, which your videos do, will always be the best method of learning. The fundamentals I learned in trade-school 10 years ago are still in the basis of everything I do today!
Hi Box Wrench..Thanx for the info...I would like to know if you can tell me..Why is motor oil coming threw my distributor gear shaft ..I don't understand can you help me..Thax
On a rare occasion, that method can work for some engine types, but for the majority of engine types, it's not a good idea.
Also has a high risk of chipping off a tooth or two from the camshaft drive gear or the distributor gear itself.
That risk alone is well worth avoiding the crank over method. Also, when cranking the engine you are no longer going to be at the TDC point for #1 cylinder.
The method described in this video will keep your crankshaft parked at TDC #1 for the distrib wiring
it's easiest to put the balancer at about 12 degrees BTDC, then line the rotor as close to number one as possible. That way you will be at 12 BTDC on startup. It's easier than putting balancer at 0 and then guessing where 12 might be on the cap.
The reason for the TDC method is, we are referring to all types of distributors generally. There are so many distributor designs that have different widths of rotor blades and firing techniques that it's not always a guarantee that hand rotating the crank to about 12 degrees will actually translate into a 12 degree reading once the engine starts up.
The best method for recommending to all engine builders is to use the TDC method and then advance the distributor until you get the engine to fire
I don't agree. It doesn't matter if distiributors are different. You are going off of the balancer markings for that distributor. If there are no markings, get timing mark tape. The engine will fire every time. It is better than guessing where the distiributor is. you can detonate your piston that way and screw things up. I am surprised a company would tell engine builders to do this.
Also, I used 12 degrees as an example. If your engine is supposed to run at 8 degrees, then put it at 8. But either way, if you start at 10 degrees, you will be in the ball park of firing up the first time every time. Or you can use a test light to static time it before you fire it up.
What you say is true but only if the engine and it's static timing has been previously set before. Only then can the reference of the timing marks be trusted with reference to the rotor under the distributor cap.
When a distributor has been removed and replaced, the rotor is located in a new completely arbitrary position with reference to the timing marks on the crank.
Only by firing up and resetting static timing can you re-establish the relationship to the balancer's timing marks.
I set TDC using the rockers...take a valve cover off, and check them out and go off the mark on the balancer, then rotate the balancer to 10 degrees...put the dizzy in and line the rotor up to #1...easy...it's enough to fire it up, then fine tune it while it's running. I have done this on many makes and models and never have had a problem.
We agree that it's a good technique that works most of the time.
You will experience different results when you use that technique with many makes and models from in-line 4's to straight 6's and multiple V8's.
Some distributors are points, others are magnetic triggered, still others full electronic with 'hall-effect' sensors...all of them act slightly differently when it comes to timing marks on the balancer
Not calling you wrong, we just prefer to give conservative advise on this topic
I have a '83 Skylark with 32,000 orig. miles but I performed a engine swap on it. I thought I was following the manual correctly on how to install the dist.. when I cranked it up, fuel shot from the carb but didn't fire. I have 3 lines on the h. balancer and I thought I had the no 1 piston at TDC by using the line alined at 0. The car still wont fire. the eng is a 2.8L FWD V6. I need help to get it started . Any ideas I really appreciated...
I would start from square one. It sounds like you might be 180 out. Is the valve cover easy to take off? If so, I usually take it off and watch cylinder number 1 intake valve. You need to put the balancer at 0 when the intake valve is closing (the compression stroke). Instead of lining up to 0, line up to whatever the timing is supposed to be around. Then drop the distributor in and line it up as close to #1 as possible.
That is true but sometimes I always the rotor tip at exactly one. The manufacturers specs. is for the spark to be at 10 deg. BTDC, the problem with that is I put a screwdriver in the no. one spark plug hole and watch for movement. Then look at the timing marks on the cover which was lined at 0 then I put the dizzy in with the tip at no one tower, Still no fire, Got spark, got fuel, no ignition. Like you said I would have to start over. Tried your method, it almost fire but I didn't give it gas.
if you are putting the distributor at #1 and the balancer at 0, then it is too far retarded if spec is 10. if the balancer is at 0, then you need to advance the dizzy a little to make up for that 10 degrees. If that doesn't work, then it is time to break out your test light or volt meter.
you are too retarded then. You are telling me that you are putting the dizzy in at 0 degrees. spec calls for 10 BTDC. You need to stop 10 degrees before the piston gets to the travel. Not when it is at 0. And how do you know you are on the compression stroke? What did you do to make sure?
it sounds like you have piston 1 at TDC on the exaust stroke and the distributor is perfectly aligned ..... backwards turn it 180 degrees and try again
It's not quite as easy as you might think in theory. When you actually try to install a distributor you'll find out that the oil pump drive rod will wobble and spin just a bit all by itself during the removal and install causing difficulty during re-install. Also, when you're building an engine from the ground up, you don't have a reference point of an "old" distrib position because it's a new build-up. The procedures in this vid will help get any distributor installed, old or new.
Lubrication of the distrib gear is covered in our camshaft install section. We applied moly lube to the cam distributor gear as the lube was also needed for the cam lobes and will transfer to the distributor gear during the lash setting prior to start-up.
EVERYone here is a great trick on SBC the lower Lip seal I cut the top corners off the timing cover. that way you can leave the timing cover till the last step. meaning if you have a compression whistle you can listen to that and watch your timing marks. Guaranteed start every time.
It's not that easy with the motor still in place how can I get TDC at the compression strock.with out bump the motor over and over I'm trying to swap an stock hei Distributor into a msd hei with an control box yes I know I need msd wires but what's the best type of plugs for a Chevy block I've been usin A/C Deco's can I us the double platinum series and stead of the normal series lmk please a speed shop charge 102dollars an hour and its just and hour and half job
RAN OUT OF ROOM...lol....AND another thing im curently building a 430HP 355 SBC 1500-6500RPM screaming machine and i know how mutch a motor like that cost (going into a 2wd c10) anyway i wanted a nice rebuilt motor like the on in the vidio all painted up new cam cleaned up valve seal work so it dosnt burn all its oil when first start...OH yeah gets warm and burns oil and has about 15 PSI oil...IT was a MUD TRUCK but im a better owner and dont rod the piss outa old things that are tired lol
Codythecartaker 5 days ago
GREAT vids really helped instaling a chevy 350 in a k1500 BUT i have a SERIUS (bad spelling) QUESTION i own a 77 full time 4x4 chevy truck with a 350 (edelbrock EPS intake Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb Some kinda aftermartet cam.) My question IS to rebuild, Bore .040 get the crank worked on the rods worked on and (of corse) New pistonswith the kit like 2-$300 how mutch total would it run...YEAH i know each machine shop is diferent(OHH im building it BTW not them)oh and head work valvle seals
Codythecartaker 5 days ago
good
TheBoos911 1 week ago
Your videos are fantastic.
robemery11 1 month ago
This "moving the oil pump drive" is nonsense. Just drop the dist in close as you can get, bump the starter until it falls in, then come around and recheck the timing marks and distributor position. Most of the time you can anticipate where it will "change." If not, EASY, just rotate the dist one gear tooth which way you need, bump again to drop it in, and you're done
fourfortyroadrunner 2 months ago
Sorry man i was just having a bad day man i didnt mean to insult you!
ChukyG863 4 months ago
You fuckin suck this didnt help at all!
ChukyG863 4 months ago
@ChukyG863 Sorry to hear that. Not sure exactly what you mean by that, but this is not really meant to teach you everything you need for this procedure. If you haven't noticed yet, by all the other comments & videos, this is a "trailer" or sample. It's part of a full 3 1/2 hour DVD that takes you from disassembly all the way to install and breaking in your motor. Before following instructions, make sure you have the entire set of material at hand first.
BoxWrench 4 months ago 2
@BoxWrench Don't even bother trying saying anything to this douche, he is just an internet troll. Great video! :D!
MisterMattyMo 3 months ago
@ChukyG863 your a douche...
Cmonster707 2 weeks ago
tanks
tahirkhan138 5 months ago
lifter repear
passion123ify 7 months ago
Question, what if engine is in truck. I am having that trouble and dont have the tool u have. Is there something else I can do?
mace1959 9 months ago
@mace1959 use a long flathead screw driver
Chevydipper1500 7 months ago
hey i wondering if you can let me know when a engine cranks over slow does it mean that its stuck ................. i have a new battery and new parts on it and still wont start do i have to move the Distributor cap around to get a better crank or faster crank on it
Mr559TAVO 10 months ago
@Mr559TAVO If the engine cranks slowly, it shouldn't be stuck. If the crank or a piston was frozen in place, you wouldn't hear the engine 'turning over' at all.
You can use our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD to guide you through all of the procedures leading up to and including the distributor install...or, you can check out our two videos here on YT concerning the distributor and ignition set-up. Both sample vids are from our 'BEB' DVD.
BoxWrench 10 months ago
@Mr559TAVO If you loosen your distributor, then start your engine, sligthly twist it back and forth and if it is too far to one side, then the engine will run slower, you want to get it right between the left and right stalling points. In other words you want to have the engine run the fastest out of all the positions you can twist the distributor. i hope this helped you. -Ray.
raymondrmyers 7 months ago
this is a very god video with great commentary. Really good instructions
AntillRS 11 months ago 4
I bought a new cap, roter and wires for my 1.8L 4 Cyl. but when i aligned it to TDC (not exhaust) i set up the firing order and double checked and my car still wont turn over? Any suggestions?
forbidnblood 1 year ago
Is there an oil seal on the distributor? Because I have an oil leak coming from the area of the bottom of my distributor and I want to take it out to see if I can change the seal. Is there anything I should know before doing this? I think that I have to mark the distributor position with a marker or something before I take it out and not the plug wire positions but is there anything else I should wory about?
nightpwner 1 year ago
this is ohv or overheadvalve right.how about ohc engines.are they different?
errolprime 1 year ago
i have a 350 engine that was just built for me im fairly new to the engine building thing i am trying to put on the distributor how do i go by priming the oil pump once i put on the distributor and is there a certain way the distributor post should be turned im not sure what its called but the piece stickn out from the distributor should it be on the left side or right side
2387diesel 1 year ago
suck s ass.american s engines..
alexmpowere30bmw 1 year ago
@alexmpowere30bmw what?
Trendyrapslut 1 year ago
i took a 351 0ut of a ford bronco fuel injected and put it into a mustang carberated but i used the same distributor do i need to change distributors cuz i went from fuel injected to carberated cuz it doesnt rev up right and it just dont seem right
TheDwortham 1 year ago
@TheDwortham First thing to check is the timing.
What method did you use to install the distributor and set the initial timing...?
BoxWrench 1 year ago
@BoxWrench i changed the distributor to the old style like a 75 ford 351w im trying to hook up the ignition box the lil aluminum box that powered the coil but i cant get good spark idk if its hooked up right is there a diagram somewhere or do u know how to do it
TheDwortham 1 year ago
@TheDwortham
You switched from a computer controll fuel injection system to a carb, first off why EFI is alot more potential with a aftermarket ECU. As for the distributor, first question is did the distributor belong to the bronco or the mustange. If it was from the bronco then it wont function correctly if the Advance is controlled by the ECU. If it was from the mustang readjust adjust the advance curve to the engine specs and tweek it from there.
Lokivoid 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@Lokivoid 卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐卐
the911isfunnyashell 1 year ago
@Lokivoid im in the middle of changing distributors i changed to old style with the ignition bax and vaccum advance but im not getting good spark from my coil and i know my coil is good is there a diagram for hooking that up
TheDwortham 1 year ago
@TheDwortham
Describe the symptoms your having, is ignition not starting at all and just dumping gas or is it just idleing rough? Theres really not much of a wireing diagram for a old style coil setup unless you using a MEI style even then its normaly only 4 leads two for the tach and two for power. Just make sure there all have a secure connection and insolated so the spark isnt grounding out befor reaching the plugs.
Lokivoid 1 year ago
Please watch:
SUPER-EFFICIENT ENGINE Newest Design
TABAGfrancis 1 year ago
@TABAGfrancis
That design is absolute crap, not only would it lack power. it would breakdown due to friction at low RPM. Your video was also not relivent to the conversation or this video. so i am also flagging you for advertisement spam.
Lokivoid 1 year ago
Thanks very much for making this video super easy to follow along with easy to understand descriptions, instructions as well as showing how the parts engage and fit together!
I have a feeling I'm going to be spending a lot of time on this channel... lol
32bitcal 1 year ago
so can you install a Chevrolet Distributor into Nissan
12waleed 1 year ago
You wouldn't install a distributor from one engine make into another...
You can however use this video to help you learn how to install any distributor type into it's matched engine type.
You would need to set any piston engine to the Top Dead Center position for the #1 cylinder, adjust the crankshaft to the recommended initial timing advance setting and then install the distributor.
When you know the distributor rotation and firing order of the engine as well, you can finish the plug wiring
BoxWrench 1 year ago
@BoxWrench not always the #1. My IH is timed off the #8 cylinder.
GitRdone3454 1 year ago
i go to votec, a tech college and i needed to put the timeing to tdc so my teacher told me to take the 1st spark plug out and stick a screwdriver in it and turn the motor over and when u feel the piston push against the screwdriver that it is top dead center so hope this helps
bighead2466308 1 year ago
Hello BoxWrench. I was wondering, what brand is that needle-style torque wrench you use in your videos? I need to buy one but don't know which one is good quality. thanks a lot.
livehho 1 year ago
There are distribitors you do not use a timing on and a scan tool is use to set them.Vortec 350s and 4.3s are this way,scan tool only
wafrederick 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
fuck this video
europass1000 2 years ago
thanks for the video, its great.
one question though, is there anything different you have to do when installing an electronic distributor conversion kit?
jessievillalobos 2 years ago
Following these instructions will still get your engine running with a point to electronic conversion kit.
You'll just need to set the timing with a gun while the engine idles as our DVD describes in the engine Start-Up section at the end of the DVD.
BoxWrench 2 years ago
Hey! You videos are awsome they help alot and i mean ALOT
Keep making these vids
CodyTHEsk8er 2 years ago
Some people stick their finger in the spark plug hole to feel the compression while you crank it. When you feel the compression, you line it up to 0. Even though you can leave the valve cover on, I don't like this method because the engine cranks over extremely fast and will pass TDC when you let off the key or remote starter. Then you gotta crank the motor backwards by hand, which you shouldn't be doing. The valve cover method is more accurate. Good luck!!
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
P.S. Its nice to see some one on You Tube providing easy to understand, true info for the newbies, keep up the good work!
Rogersjetboat454 2 years ago
That's a good comment...thanks for that!
Every once in a while, here at YouTube, we get some all-pro builders making comments about how our instructions are for novices...we kinda figure that's the point here.
YouTube is full of many who would like to learn or haven't ever seen this kind of stuff before.
We're all about getting someone started on a trip of discovering new information.
BoxWrench 2 years ago
My apology's, I was a little quick to post such advise in my previous posts. I pulled my comments so my info wouldn't get into the wrong hands. I appreciate what you do for the people who aren't in the know, and would like to learn. Everybody starts as a novice. Teaching theory, and the correct way of performing a task, which your videos do, will always be the best method of learning. The fundamentals I learned in trade-school 10 years ago are still in the basis of everything I do today!
Rogersjetboat454 2 years ago
Hi Box Wrench..Thanx for the info...I would like to know if you can tell me..Why is motor oil coming threw my distributor gear shaft ..I don't understand can you help me..Thax
shebacolby 2 years ago
what condition is your seal in?
zuneluvr 2 years ago
Comment removed
Rogersjetboat454 2 years ago
On a rare occasion, that method can work for some engine types, but for the majority of engine types, it's not a good idea.
Also has a high risk of chipping off a tooth or two from the camshaft drive gear or the distributor gear itself.
That risk alone is well worth avoiding the crank over method. Also, when cranking the engine you are no longer going to be at the TDC point for #1 cylinder.
The method described in this video will keep your crankshaft parked at TDC #1 for the distrib wiring
BoxWrench 2 years ago
Comment removed
Rogersjetboat454 2 years ago
wow distributors make perfect sense now.
DemoFly 2 years ago
that will be fun in the engine bay...
anythingthatgoes 3 years ago
it's easiest to put the balancer at about 12 degrees BTDC, then line the rotor as close to number one as possible. That way you will be at 12 BTDC on startup. It's easier than putting balancer at 0 and then guessing where 12 might be on the cap.
six6vetteguy 3 years ago
The reason for the TDC method is, we are referring to all types of distributors generally. There are so many distributor designs that have different widths of rotor blades and firing techniques that it's not always a guarantee that hand rotating the crank to about 12 degrees will actually translate into a 12 degree reading once the engine starts up.
The best method for recommending to all engine builders is to use the TDC method and then advance the distributor until you get the engine to fire
BoxWrench 2 years ago
I don't agree. It doesn't matter if distiributors are different. You are going off of the balancer markings for that distributor. If there are no markings, get timing mark tape. The engine will fire every time. It is better than guessing where the distiributor is. you can detonate your piston that way and screw things up. I am surprised a company would tell engine builders to do this.
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
damaging pre-detonation is a symptom of too much advance on the spark event.
By using a 6-12 BTDC distributor setting technique you run a higher risk of advancing the spark event toward a potential pre-detonation.
Using a "0" TDC setting to begin with will keep more people on the conservative side and away from damaging pre-detonation.
We are a company, and this is why we give this advice to the masses. It is conservative, but will save a few rare cases from damaging their engine.
BoxWrench 2 years ago
Also, I used 12 degrees as an example. If your engine is supposed to run at 8 degrees, then put it at 8. But either way, if you start at 10 degrees, you will be in the ball park of firing up the first time every time. Or you can use a test light to static time it before you fire it up.
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
What you say is true but only if the engine and it's static timing has been previously set before. Only then can the reference of the timing marks be trusted with reference to the rotor under the distributor cap.
When a distributor has been removed and replaced, the rotor is located in a new completely arbitrary position with reference to the timing marks on the crank.
Only by firing up and resetting static timing can you re-establish the relationship to the balancer's timing marks.
BoxWrench 2 years ago
I set TDC using the rockers...take a valve cover off, and check them out and go off the mark on the balancer, then rotate the balancer to 10 degrees...put the dizzy in and line the rotor up to #1...easy...it's enough to fire it up, then fine tune it while it's running. I have done this on many makes and models and never have had a problem.
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
We agree that it's a good technique that works most of the time.
You will experience different results when you use that technique with many makes and models from in-line 4's to straight 6's and multiple V8's.
Some distributors are points, others are magnetic triggered, still others full electronic with 'hall-effect' sensors...all of them act slightly differently when it comes to timing marks on the balancer
Not calling you wrong, we just prefer to give conservative advise on this topic
BoxWrench 2 years ago
I have a '83 Skylark with 32,000 orig. miles but I performed a engine swap on it. I thought I was following the manual correctly on how to install the dist.. when I cranked it up, fuel shot from the carb but didn't fire. I have 3 lines on the h. balancer and I thought I had the no 1 piston at TDC by using the line alined at 0. The car still wont fire. the eng is a 2.8L FWD V6. I need help to get it started . Any ideas I really appreciated...
illblud 2 years ago
I would start from square one. It sounds like you might be 180 out. Is the valve cover easy to take off? If so, I usually take it off and watch cylinder number 1 intake valve. You need to put the balancer at 0 when the intake valve is closing (the compression stroke). Instead of lining up to 0, line up to whatever the timing is supposed to be around. Then drop the distributor in and line it up as close to #1 as possible.
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
That is true but sometimes I always the rotor tip at exactly one. The manufacturers specs. is for the spark to be at 10 deg. BTDC, the problem with that is I put a screwdriver in the no. one spark plug hole and watch for movement. Then look at the timing marks on the cover which was lined at 0 then I put the dizzy in with the tip at no one tower, Still no fire, Got spark, got fuel, no ignition. Like you said I would have to start over. Tried your method, it almost fire but I didn't give it gas.
illblud 2 years ago
if you are putting the distributor at #1 and the balancer at 0, then it is too far retarded if spec is 10. if the balancer is at 0, then you need to advance the dizzy a little to make up for that 10 degrees. If that doesn't work, then it is time to break out your test light or volt meter.
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
you are too retarded then. You are telling me that you are putting the dizzy in at 0 degrees. spec calls for 10 BTDC. You need to stop 10 degrees before the piston gets to the travel. Not when it is at 0. And how do you know you are on the compression stroke? What did you do to make sure?
six6vetteguy 2 years ago
it sounds like you have piston 1 at TDC on the exaust stroke and the distributor is perfectly aligned ..... backwards turn it 180 degrees and try again
305lg3 2 years ago 3
why not look at mposition of old one for oil pump dry rod set it where odl one is same for rotor position
jayguy173 3 years ago
It's not quite as easy as you might think in theory. When you actually try to install a distributor you'll find out that the oil pump drive rod will wobble and spin just a bit all by itself during the removal and install causing difficulty during re-install. Also, when you're building an engine from the ground up, you don't have a reference point of an "old" distrib position because it's a new build-up. The procedures in this vid will help get any distributor installed, old or new.
BoxWrench 3 years ago
I was going nuts trying to figure the reason it wouldn't seat. thanks a million. Mars B
Goexbang 3 years ago
a flat head will work as well
ls1guy2001 3 years ago
awesome video, thank you.
Animegod2you 3 years ago
one of the best vids around man. thanx!
PhiLfromCaLi 3 years ago
I like to lube up the distributor gear on install.
badsupra 3 years ago
Lubrication of the distrib gear is covered in our camshaft install section. We applied moly lube to the cam distributor gear as the lube was also needed for the cam lobes and will transfer to the distributor gear during the lash setting prior to start-up.
BoxWrench 3 years ago
EVERYone here is a great trick on SBC the lower Lip seal I cut the top corners off the timing cover. that way you can leave the timing cover till the last step. meaning if you have a compression whistle you can listen to that and watch your timing marks. Guaranteed start every time.
enginemasterbuilder 3 years ago
I guess I need to stop havin stepping and order those dvds.I already own the holly dvd i brought the 4160
MYDRAGGIN84 4 years ago
It's not that easy with the motor still in place how can I get TDC at the compression strock.with out bump the motor over and over I'm trying to swap an stock hei Distributor into a msd hei with an control box yes I know I need msd wires but what's the best type of plugs for a Chevy block I've been usin A/C Deco's can I us the double platinum series and stead of the normal series lmk please a speed shop charge 102dollars an hour and its just and hour and half job
MYDRAGGIN84 4 years ago
You have to use the same techniques in the video here, but find some type of socket that will have access to your engine while it's still in the car.
The rest of the DVD has all types of tips and methods for working on an engine installed in a vehicle.
BoxWrench 4 years ago