Added: 4 years ago
From: paulacrosby
Views: 15,940
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  • thanks! seems a life time ago now, but glad to see it still gets a few hits.

  • great video.

  • We did the Matterhorn and the Zinal Rothorn the month before doing Ama Dablam. We did them both back to back and I can tell you that they were easy in comparison. Partly because you're not carrying cooking/sleeping/tent kit as well in the Alps, but also the altitude plays a big part in the effort. It took four days climbing from base camp as something around 5000m to get up to the peak at 68,something, something. Perhaps it's just because of the altitude, but the climbing went on FOREVER!

  • Bit late in responding, thanks for the positive feedback.

  • Still amazing though

  • I've heard that some alpine mountains are as physically large as the Himalayan peaks you know base and up so if you put Matterhorn not the same base would it rise as high because both mountains biggest faces are 2000m but the Himalayan ones are already on a plateau 5000m high

  • Im leaving in the first week of april, to do an alpine style ascent as well, What time of the year was this? If you have any crucial beta please...PLEEEASE send it my way! tylerbtraveling@gmail.com

    Facebook: Tyler Botzon

  • @tylerbtraveling. We went in October and summited on 5th November. We used existing pitons to belay/abseil from on rock and had a couple of ice screws and four snow stakes for the snow sections. Snow stakes came in handy for summit day. We took two tents and leap frogged them up the mountain. Camp 2 is tricky with all best plpaces being taken by sherpas from organised expeditions. We blagged an empty tent as they're put them up days in advance of the cleints getting there, talk to sherpas in BC

  • I love the Asian music in the middle of the video. Where can I find the music? Great video, it really motivates me.

  • Badmarsh and Shri is the band, can't remember the track name. I've lost all my tunes since making this. :( I think you can get it on amazon, itunes, etc. Thanks for the compliment. Seems like a long time ago now. Ski-mountaineering in the Alps to come. Watch this space.

  • congratulations on the great climb,few bits look well hairy. got a close look at it this year but no plans to get on it...yet(really, ever) lol. looks like ye had some laugh too though :)

  • Extremely cool. That's living life.

  • impressive. congrats

    my liftetime dream to rock this baby

  • Way cool video and the climb looked really challenging.I'm tentatively planning on hooking up with Alpine Ascents International in Seattle.WA to do a climb up Mt. Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver and Ingraham Glacier.They do a3-day climb and one day is training of fundmental mountaineering skills.I'm going to do an intro mountaineering course with Colordo Mountain School in Estes Park,Colorado this summer sometime so I'll already have some basic skills before Rainier and I'll climb some 14ers.

  • So how was it alpine style with all the fixed ropes on Ama? I'm not doubting, i saw the video, you are actually using tools but how did you do it? Alternate routes? Not clipping on to fixed gear? Thanks

  • We took the classic southwest ridge and followed the route of fixed lines but placed our own gear, which was easy for navigation, but slow passing punters on the tricky yellow & grey towers and moving past sooo much old tat on the route. We carried our own tents & food, and took our own gear (mainly slings, ice screw & snow stakes with a few cams and rocks) and twin ropes (heavy packs!). Used the fixed lines to get down, way quicker, lol.

  • fantastic video.

    very inspiring.

    a couple of questions if you dont mind answering them.

    what altitude is BC?

    how long did it take you from BC?

    howm many nights in the tent?

    cheers

  • Hi,

    Thanks for the thumbs up on the vid, have a go, its a fantastic mountain. My first big mountain away from the Alps. BC is about 4500m. From arriving at BC it took 10 days to summit and 2 days to get back to BC, which was 9 nights on the mountain as we came down to BC after our first 'run' up to Camp 1.

    I hope you have as good a trip.

  • Cool, Looks more dificult (more actual climbing) than everest.

  • Have you done Everest! I would be interested to know if you think AD is tougher as I do have a slight hankering to go back to Nepal and do something above 8000m. I just felt it would all be way to hard.

  • No I'm going to Kilimanjaro this summer. Its gonna be great. I'm hoping to go to Everest in my future though.

    I've herad that Everest is less technecly chalenging then AD if you take the standerd route.

    Good luck if you attemt Everest.

  • I love this video. What a beautiful mountain! I'm hoping to climb it in November 2009.

    I noticed you'd offered to make a DVD of the full version for one of the other YouTube users... I would gladly pay £10 for a copy. Would that be possible. Thanks a lot, Adam

  • Hi Adam,

    Sure, just give me your details and I'll get a copy posted to you. Payment by Paypal if that's ok.

    Cheers,

    Paul

  • Hi Paul, would love a copy of the DVD.

    My address is 11 The Square, Birmingham, B17 9EH. What are your paypal details for payment?

    Thanks, Adam

  • Just send me you're real email and I'll get a request sent out via paypal, and once that's sorted I'll gladly send you the full version. I think that's how it works. Either that or meet me at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival this weekend! cheers,

    Paul

  • guys, looking to climb Ama this year myself, love to get hold of the longer video. whats the score. Awesome effort by the way.

  • Hi Will, thanks for the kind words, you'll have a great trip. I couldn't get the full version up on youTube as way too long at 40 mins. I can make a copy of the dvd for you and post it on if you want? I'd just ask for a bit of cash to cover cost of faffage, postage, etc (£10). I live in Kendal, Cumbria, UK. Cheers, Paul

  • A longer version of this film was a finialist at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival 2007. Runner up in People's choice.

  • i want your life(style)! looks incredible!

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