-buteaux34- Doesn't even know how to speak english. Is this how they speak in Canada? It must be the brain freeze that Canadian's endure to make them speak in this ignorant fashion. That's why the Canadian's have two different types of taxes, and government still offers a terrible health care plan for their people. Someone's putting a blind fold over their community. Their sure not putting it into their educational program's, as these prior post are displaying.
@ScreenTechnique ,I am a Canadian, friend, and you are about the "blind fold," but as it is with most nations on this globe. It would be best to keep your comments related to said video above.
What is your educated and enlightened thoughts on these four men pouring a concrete drive way? Help us dark and manipulated Canadians be better people.
@ScreenTechnique ,I am a Canadian, friend, and you are about the "blind fold," but as it is with most nations on this globe. It would be best to keep your comments related to said video above.
What is your educated and enlightened thoughts on these four men pouring a concrete drive way? Help us dark and manipulated Canadians be better people.
-buteaux34- Doesn't even know how to speak english. Is this how they speak in Canada? It must be the brain freeze that Canadian's endure to make them speak in this ignorant fashion. That's why the Canadian's have two different types of taxes, and government still offers a terrible health care plan for their people. Someone's putting a blind fold over their community. Their sure not putting it into their educational program's, as these prior post are depicting.
i want to add on to my driveway to make it wider, i understand how to build the forms but i cant find an answer on what to put down below the concrete. What i mean,like small rocks, or crush and run or just tamp the dirt with a tamper. Someone send me an answer.
@sparkyzap grade 2b gravel to a minimum of 5 1/2 inches and tamp; to grade just set a board from form to existing concrete or a string If you have forms on each side! and then measure down from board or string to your desired thickness. then lay your sheets of wire in, some people like re-bar or get fiber added to their concrete. but their are different theory's on that.
i have to admire the effort and hustle these guys did . i push our guys way harder ...but at the same time im busting my ass keeping them with work all day during the week .no matter how fast your gettting set up on .. it takes the best to do the best.. these guys know what there doing . and for those who havent been in the mud keep watching you may learn something .
@Honeykisses916 ...over here in nashville , depending on who you go through .it can be about the same. but people have their own price for their "Quality work" with stain you have to prep the floor and put your stain when ready then neatrallize the acid. work after work ..as for color mix depending on the persons pull with concrete plants they can get the mix cheaper than most . color mixes are expensive more per yard than most commenly used mixes
rebar? wire? maybe the load of concrete has steel fiber in it, to wet? could it be that they added plastisizer to get it wet so they can push it in place with out killing them selfs, but also a good shute guy should been better, we dont know what they put on the load, so we criticize because we think we can do better, and maybe we can, who knows....... LOCAL 786
Concrete sucks.....Something that size should be asphalt.....Easier to maintain and revive, cost less, easier to rip out and replace, looks nicer,,,,,,,,,
LOL Concrete sucks your lame....It will last longer then asphalt, wont get as hell as asphalt, withstands more weight, looks nicer, can be patterned, colored and is cool
These idiots don`t know what they`re doing.See the shine on the surface of the concrete behind them? Poured it to wet so they can keep up with the square footage they have down on the ground.Also looks like they emptied the mixers,and then started to work it.Talk about bust`in your ass needlessly.I can assure you the finish on this driveway looks like shit.Should have wire mesh in it to hold it together,even between controlled joints that are made to crack.Rebar is needed where the sub-base is w
Yea rebar does help, but the only thing you can guarantee about crete is that it will eventually crack, wheather its 1 week or 10 years, eventually it always cracks,lol!!
I live roughly 30 miles from san andreas fault line and have been doing concret for 8 years. Most driveways we do dont require rebar, only fiber mesh. Concrete still cracks with rebar in it. Rebar does however hold the cracks together better and longer. If I were to pour myself a driveway it would definetly have rebar in it.
Just for future reference, since this is also what I went to college for. Concrete has great compressive strength properties, yet is very weak - torsionally. That is why steel - when installed properly keeps the concrete torsionally rigid. There are so many variables (water drainage, ground movement, heavy vehicles, wind shear etc) that affect the torsional psi on any driveway, foundation etc that steel is a must to be insured and inspected. Just my point of view though.
would have a field day with that one. We pour 4" driveways with #3 rebar tied @ 12" ocew. But then again maybe us doing quality high end work is the reason the people don't mind paying a little more and we seem to keep pretty busy. Its not all about how you can do it cheeper. If steel didn't work I wouldn't waste that .50-.75 cents a square foot, but it works and I don't mind paying for it.
over watering the mix or spinning the trucks on site because you have slow finishers or not enough finishers is the biggest mistake I see. On commercial we mist cure the concrete, but it is really not necessary. If you have good ground, good compaction, correct beam width/depth, steel/cables to spec, forms braced correctly, and a finishing crew of 1 person for every 7 or 8 hundred sqft, you are fine. If not, you are pissin in the wind. Also, no steel in a driveway - my insurance company
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
you must be a real idiot to add WATER to your mix obviously that WEAKENS the disgned mix. You say you need 1 person for 800 sq ft to finish.. I ALON HAVE FINISHED 15 000 sq slabs BY MY SELF . Are you sure that wasnt a CLOWN college you went to. I have pourd 1000's of driveways only 5 percent required steel... 30 percent had steel mesh and the rest poured at 6 inches with 35 mpa and the right cuts NOT 1 complaint. There is a reason why i am still busy in this economy crisis...
Smotpoker - your name speaks volumes... However you must not pour in a reputable area. I poured over 370 foundation and over 200 driveways last year in the city of San Antonio. I am licensed and registered and "know" what I am doing. I pour for all of the largest home builders and am extremely busy. The inspectors in the "cities" would laugh you right out of here. I am glad you are busy and keeping bread on the table and milk in the fridge.
I went to college and graduated for structural engineering and worked as a "finisher" while getting through college. Down here, where it really is busy and we do "Turnkey" work, not piece-mill, we call the entire finishing crew finishers, not placers and finishers like my union buddies up north. Also, most of my work is higher end houses with staining and stamping as well as complex foundations, I don't know if you have any experience with what I deal with and won't make assumptions.
However, my clients/builders want "quality" work, not just the lowest price, and by the way, we have some of the best concrete in the nation, since we are on a huge limestone bed, and our prices are great. Also, it seems like you don't understand about soil content and PI so I assume you are just a flatwork contractor or laborer, good for you. However, I just do flatwork because it comes with the territory when you are a concrete contractor, i.e. all of the people work for me.
You've poured 1000's of driveways at 22 yrs old, if you went to college that would be 1000+ driveways this past year, in canada, ha, not a chance. So you are either a loborer or talking out of your ass.
your contradicting your self, you already know ive been in the field for 7 years , i was already 3 years in when i went for my first level.. do the math... and the funny thing is that you dont even have a valid arguement as to what i said. All you are doing is giving me excuses of what you claim to have done. You sound like every other crack head in the trade. talk is cheap. Yes ive stammped , stained etc. but where not on that arguement right now. And by the way buddy Vancouver is reputable.
I don't know about levels, and san antonio is almost 3 times larger in pop. than vancouver with a much faster growing economy, although I am not trying to take anything away from you in that regards vancouver is reputable - construction wise. Aslo, my main competitor is the second largest concrete cotractor in the nation - Urban Concrete, so it is a little cut-throat around here. That being said I am sure different regions have completely different ways of doing things, good luck in the future
for different pi's and ground stability. Also, sand content and limestone has a lot to do with it. Also, if my finishers brought a powerscreed on one of my foundations, I would toss that pos right off. A commercial vibrator, dual axis laser, and magnesium hand screed is the most accurate way to finish off a slab. Our numbers always come in at +/- 1/8" at 100' and our concrete tests out at over 4000psi at 30 days with minimal curing cracks - because us owners make sure that the slump is right
NOW your talking about shit mixes of concrete i dont know where you live but where i live u can order a specific mix, ie LIGHTWEIGHT for raidiant or small rock with high mpa for sidewalk etc. Now i am really starting to question your experience when u say your FINISHER brings a POWER SCREED. actualy its your PLACER whom will be running that. AND IF USED PROPERLY will leave a flatter tighter job than a 2x4. You dont use a laser or hand float to FINISH thats PLACING.
Smotpoker your wrong in saying that finishing has nothing to do with the foundation and cracking. I have done turnkey foundations for 10 years now and been around the concrete business for about 20. Take it from someone that pours 4-6 thousand yards of concrete per month in residential foundations and driveways. If you have lazy finishers who don't want to pull 3.5" slump around. Your gonna get cracks. Also, why would engineers design foundations specifically with certain rebar
in your profile it says your 24 years old, your telling me you were pouring when you where 4 years of age. , as it comes to the slump. you must be a real idiot to have a 3.5 inch slump or just a sucker for hard work. you order a 35 mpa with a 4.5 to 5 inch slump youll have same strength after 30 days. Now when it comes to SIDEWALKS DRIVEWAYS AND GARAGES which this whole discussion started, IT IS NOT NECESSARY to add REBAR, you CAN however add STEEL MESH for strength if going to be used in EXCESS
wiggarigga your a crack head with obviously very little experience in concrete. i guarantee i can use a power screed and out screed any guy with a board and be just as flat if not flatter. and the idiot that said it weakens the surface is dumber than a box of rocks. vibrating concrete settles the concrete and actually makes it stronger. its been proven. all it takes with a power screed is a couple of good guys that know how to rake in frot of the screed and u will have an almost perfect floor.
as for the foundation that has NOTHING to do with the placement and finishing of the concrete... if the builder didnt properly compact and or seal the earth beneeth the concrete then there an idiot and its completly there fault for a crack... now when it comes to weather if it doesnt have a chance to cure properly wether u have steel no steel your going to get cracks.... take this 5 minutes of reading and re think your trade
if your compairing a bridge to a sidewalk drive way then man take all those years of concrete and throw it right out the window .... by the way im a red seal certified finisher... been around concrete my whole life.. you dont need steel in a drive way/ garage/ sidewalks.. you can add some steel mesh if going to be used in excess but you dont ever need steel unless you plan to park a lot of weight on it , you obviously need to add cuts off the corners of the forms and threw the middle.
u fuckin guys suck at raking. its a sinple 12 foot path and u cant even rake it +/- 1/2 inch.. goos luck on a real floor. u look like a bunch of green horns
Everyone is so stupid. Most driveways really don't need rebar. It can crack anyway. The rebar helps it not seperate that much. It can still crack if you saw-cut it, but you should never have more than a 10x10ft section of concrete without a joint. Oh and a power screed is faster, but not better. the vibration pushes the rocks down, therfore weakening the top.
Also, when are guys going to learn to use a power screed? a power screed is 20 times faster and gives a better concrete due to the vibratory movement of the board. Also these guys the use the straight bullfloats are ignorant, get a knuckle for it and extend ur reach twice as far.
fuck off dude people don't need to use power screeds they leave your pour innaccurate, hand rodding is the best way. You may be able to haul ass with your power screed but i guarantee its nowhere near as accurate as hand rodding. I totally agree about the knuckle head bull floats
I have been in concrete for almost 20 yrs. u can pour concrete without steel if u know what ur doing. there are several things that lead to cracks in concrete 1. rapid evaporation (shrinkage usually caused by hot weather)2. poor base, if u dig up the sod and put a gravel base in and compact it u will reduce ur chances of having a crack. concrete will eventually crack regardless of what u do. fiber mesh can replace steel but the secret is a good base. concrete needs some type of reinforcement.
actually not true my friend, u only need stell if your putting massive weight on it, if u have 35 mpa with cuts, or saw cuts afterwords u can have it nice with out cracks forever... ive been placing and finishing concrete for 7 years.. i have dont lots of driveways with no steel. stick to carpet :p
Thank god someone with a fucking brain. These stupid fuck probably read books , they don't have first hand experience, just like those fuckin architects, lol
i know they keep talking about steel, fine if the earth beenth isnt properly compacted and or seald your going to get cracks no matter what ... you can add steel mesh if used in excess , and if it doesnt have a chance to cure properly in harsh weather conditions your going to get cracks regardless... god damn idiots thank god they didnt design the building i live in lol
concrete needs rebar for strength, without it the driveway will crack. also i don't see any expansion joints. you may not see it now but you will in the long run.
looks hot out and in the sun did it blow up on ya? (able to finish). Mag finish or broom. hell of a pour for 6 guys in the sun. I want to see after your done.
Damn mexicans
dieselsmoke96 2 months ago
Too bad if the timber was sagging.
fillupmycupp92 5 months ago
who the hell screeds like that , and with a peace of wood , glad i had a cunt of a boss 18 yrs ago , and taught me the right way ,
leighgoldcoast 6 months ago
have you heard of fiber weave concrete, when cement is mixed with 3500 psi fiber weave you dont need mesh or any type of rebar you jerk.
majestik39 10 months ago
Im sorry, but i dont see any mesh..what the fuck. ill give it 1 year, and it will be cracked.
melbourneSTORM4eva 10 months ago
Another driveway poured like soup :(
Anyone ever hear of the water/cement ratio and what the slump does to strength and hydration?
helmutschmuk 11 months ago
uuuuaaaaooo
iuqu 11 months ago
You don't work concrete ... it works you. lol
goodoljoshua 1 year ago
these mo fo's know what they r doin... good job n keep up d good work fellars
billylo2010 1 year ago
Yo,
-buteaux34- Doesn't even know how to speak english. Is this how they speak in Canada? It must be the brain freeze that Canadian's endure to make them speak in this ignorant fashion. That's why the Canadian's have two different types of taxes, and government still offers a terrible health care plan for their people. Someone's putting a blind fold over their community. Their sure not putting it into their educational program's, as these prior post are displaying.
ScreenTechnique 1 year ago
@ScreenTechnique ,I am a Canadian, friend, and you are about the "blind fold," but as it is with most nations on this globe. It would be best to keep your comments related to said video above.
What is your educated and enlightened thoughts on these four men pouring a concrete drive way? Help us dark and manipulated Canadians be better people.
emigrantgap 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@ScreenTechnique ,I am a Canadian, friend, and you are about the "blind fold," but as it is with most nations on this globe. It would be best to keep your comments related to said video above.
What is your educated and enlightened thoughts on these four men pouring a concrete drive way? Help us dark and manipulated Canadians be better people.
emigrantgap 1 year ago
Yo,
-buteaux34- Doesn't even know how to speak english. Is this how they speak in Canada? It must be the brain freeze that Canadian's endure to make them speak in this ignorant fashion. That's why the Canadian's have two different types of taxes, and government still offers a terrible health care plan for their people. Someone's putting a blind fold over their community. Their sure not putting it into their educational program's, as these prior post are depicting.
ScreenTechnique 1 year ago
Step by step in HD:
/watch?v=5Gvffj-RSIA&hd=1
proukraine 1 year ago
wow, how much did it cost?
looks real nice.
rongconcrx 1 year ago
no steel
0404553979 1 year ago
i want to add on to my driveway to make it wider, i understand how to build the forms but i cant find an answer on what to put down below the concrete. What i mean,like small rocks, or crush and run or just tamp the dirt with a tamper. Someone send me an answer.
sparkyzap 1 year ago
@sparkyzap grade 2b gravel to a minimum of 5 1/2 inches and tamp; to grade just set a board from form to existing concrete or a string If you have forms on each side! and then measure down from board or string to your desired thickness. then lay your sheets of wire in, some people like re-bar or get fiber added to their concrete. but their are different theory's on that.
vidfuse 1 year ago
i have to admire the effort and hustle these guys did . i push our guys way harder ...but at the same time im busting my ass keeping them with work all day during the week .no matter how fast your gettting set up on .. it takes the best to do the best.. these guys know what there doing . and for those who havent been in the mud keep watching you may learn something .
juliothegreat 1 year ago
Would you say it's cheaper to stain concrete or get concrete already mixed and poured already colored?
Honeykisses916 1 year ago
@Honeykisses916 ...over here in nashville , depending on who you go through .it can be about the same. but people have their own price for their "Quality work" with stain you have to prep the floor and put your stain when ready then neatrallize the acid. work after work ..as for color mix depending on the persons pull with concrete plants they can get the mix cheaper than most . color mixes are expensive more per yard than most commenly used mixes
juliothegreat 1 year ago
see how high they leveled it huh uhu huh uhh ha ha work as a team and buy some rebar give the crete a chance to survive
whiteguy2369 1 year ago
rebar? wire? maybe the load of concrete has steel fiber in it, to wet? could it be that they added plastisizer to get it wet so they can push it in place with out killing them selfs, but also a good shute guy should been better, we dont know what they put on the load, so we criticize because we think we can do better, and maybe we can, who knows....... LOCAL 786
DSMADRE18 2 years ago
Concrete sucks.....Something that size should be asphalt.....Easier to maintain and revive, cost less, easier to rip out and replace, looks nicer,,,,,,,,,
tjsage79 2 years ago
LOL Concrete sucks your lame....It will last longer then asphalt, wont get as hell as asphalt, withstands more weight, looks nicer, can be patterned, colored and is cool
7501234 2 years ago 4
@tjsage79 Wow!!! Are you one ignorant person!!! Why are you watching guys pour concrete then? Get goin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nehocyrrah 1 year ago
These idiots don`t know what they`re doing.See the shine on the surface of the concrete behind them? Poured it to wet so they can keep up with the square footage they have down on the ground.Also looks like they emptied the mixers,and then started to work it.Talk about bust`in your ass needlessly.I can assure you the finish on this driveway looks like shit.Should have wire mesh in it to hold it together,even between controlled joints that are made to crack.Rebar is needed where the sub-base is w
deuceman724 2 years ago
I made my own driveway 25 years ago and not a single crrack !! The tricks is to add titanium sulphate compund to cement mixture.
smithlee07 2 years ago
Just put expansion joints where you know a crack will eventually come out at... eventually though it all cracks
Ethansr11 2 years ago
where is ur wire mesh?
NoFeAr11119 2 years ago 3
Yea rebar does help, but the only thing you can guarantee about crete is that it will eventually crack, wheather its 1 week or 10 years, eventually it always cracks,lol!!
DIGITALBEATZ808 2 years ago
I live roughly 30 miles from san andreas fault line and have been doing concret for 8 years. Most driveways we do dont require rebar, only fiber mesh. Concrete still cracks with rebar in it. Rebar does however hold the cracks together better and longer. If I were to pour myself a driveway it would definetly have rebar in it.
tr8k 2 years ago 3
what we do!!when we don't use fiber mesh is lay down some some wire and then cut some joint like every 8 to 10 ft.
that does the trick!! rebar works great too!!
cabreraluis2012 2 years ago
Joint seems at the very least...
nevinl 2 years ago
Comment removed
realcobra96 2 years ago
Just for future reference, since this is also what I went to college for. Concrete has great compressive strength properties, yet is very weak - torsionally. That is why steel - when installed properly keeps the concrete torsionally rigid. There are so many variables (water drainage, ground movement, heavy vehicles, wind shear etc) that affect the torsional psi on any driveway, foundation etc that steel is a must to be insured and inspected. Just my point of view though.
buteaux34 2 years ago 2
would have a field day with that one. We pour 4" driveways with #3 rebar tied @ 12" ocew. But then again maybe us doing quality high end work is the reason the people don't mind paying a little more and we seem to keep pretty busy. Its not all about how you can do it cheeper. If steel didn't work I wouldn't waste that .50-.75 cents a square foot, but it works and I don't mind paying for it.
buteaux34 2 years ago 2
over watering the mix or spinning the trucks on site because you have slow finishers or not enough finishers is the biggest mistake I see. On commercial we mist cure the concrete, but it is really not necessary. If you have good ground, good compaction, correct beam width/depth, steel/cables to spec, forms braced correctly, and a finishing crew of 1 person for every 7 or 8 hundred sqft, you are fine. If not, you are pissin in the wind. Also, no steel in a driveway - my insurance company
buteaux34 2 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
you must be a real idiot to add WATER to your mix obviously that WEAKENS the disgned mix. You say you need 1 person for 800 sq ft to finish.. I ALON HAVE FINISHED 15 000 sq slabs BY MY SELF . Are you sure that wasnt a CLOWN college you went to. I have pourd 1000's of driveways only 5 percent required steel... 30 percent had steel mesh and the rest poured at 6 inches with 35 mpa and the right cuts NOT 1 complaint. There is a reason why i am still busy in this economy crisis...
smotpoker15 2 years ago
Smotpoker - your name speaks volumes... However you must not pour in a reputable area. I poured over 370 foundation and over 200 driveways last year in the city of San Antonio. I am licensed and registered and "know" what I am doing. I pour for all of the largest home builders and am extremely busy. The inspectors in the "cities" would laugh you right out of here. I am glad you are busy and keeping bread on the table and milk in the fridge.
buteaux34 2 years ago 3
I went to college and graduated for structural engineering and worked as a "finisher" while getting through college. Down here, where it really is busy and we do "Turnkey" work, not piece-mill, we call the entire finishing crew finishers, not placers and finishers like my union buddies up north. Also, most of my work is higher end houses with staining and stamping as well as complex foundations, I don't know if you have any experience with what I deal with and won't make assumptions.
buteaux34 2 years ago
However, my clients/builders want "quality" work, not just the lowest price, and by the way, we have some of the best concrete in the nation, since we are on a huge limestone bed, and our prices are great. Also, it seems like you don't understand about soil content and PI so I assume you are just a flatwork contractor or laborer, good for you. However, I just do flatwork because it comes with the territory when you are a concrete contractor, i.e. all of the people work for me.
buteaux34 2 years ago 2
You've poured 1000's of driveways at 22 yrs old, if you went to college that would be 1000+ driveways this past year, in canada, ha, not a chance. So you are either a loborer or talking out of your ass.
buteaux34 2 years ago 5
your contradicting your self, you already know ive been in the field for 7 years , i was already 3 years in when i went for my first level.. do the math... and the funny thing is that you dont even have a valid arguement as to what i said. All you are doing is giving me excuses of what you claim to have done. You sound like every other crack head in the trade. talk is cheap. Yes ive stammped , stained etc. but where not on that arguement right now. And by the way buddy Vancouver is reputable.
smotpoker15 2 years ago
I don't know about levels, and san antonio is almost 3 times larger in pop. than vancouver with a much faster growing economy, although I am not trying to take anything away from you in that regards vancouver is reputable - construction wise. Aslo, my main competitor is the second largest concrete cotractor in the nation - Urban Concrete, so it is a little cut-throat around here. That being said I am sure different regions have completely different ways of doing things, good luck in the future
buteaux34 2 years ago
agree to disagree... and yes red seal is a 4 year 4 level course.
smotpoker15 2 years ago
for different pi's and ground stability. Also, sand content and limestone has a lot to do with it. Also, if my finishers brought a powerscreed on one of my foundations, I would toss that pos right off. A commercial vibrator, dual axis laser, and magnesium hand screed is the most accurate way to finish off a slab. Our numbers always come in at +/- 1/8" at 100' and our concrete tests out at over 4000psi at 30 days with minimal curing cracks - because us owners make sure that the slump is right
buteaux34 2 years ago
NOW your talking about shit mixes of concrete i dont know where you live but where i live u can order a specific mix, ie LIGHTWEIGHT for raidiant or small rock with high mpa for sidewalk etc. Now i am really starting to question your experience when u say your FINISHER brings a POWER SCREED. actualy its your PLACER whom will be running that. AND IF USED PROPERLY will leave a flatter tighter job than a 2x4. You dont use a laser or hand float to FINISH thats PLACING.
smotpoker15 2 years ago
Smotpoker your wrong in saying that finishing has nothing to do with the foundation and cracking. I have done turnkey foundations for 10 years now and been around the concrete business for about 20. Take it from someone that pours 4-6 thousand yards of concrete per month in residential foundations and driveways. If you have lazy finishers who don't want to pull 3.5" slump around. Your gonna get cracks. Also, why would engineers design foundations specifically with certain rebar
buteaux34 2 years ago
in your profile it says your 24 years old, your telling me you were pouring when you where 4 years of age. , as it comes to the slump. you must be a real idiot to have a 3.5 inch slump or just a sucker for hard work. you order a 35 mpa with a 4.5 to 5 inch slump youll have same strength after 30 days. Now when it comes to SIDEWALKS DRIVEWAYS AND GARAGES which this whole discussion started, IT IS NOT NECESSARY to add REBAR, you CAN however add STEEL MESH for strength if going to be used in EXCESS
smotpoker15 2 years ago
smotpoker ur right on dude
budman7555 2 years ago
wiggarigga your a crack head with obviously very little experience in concrete. i guarantee i can use a power screed and out screed any guy with a board and be just as flat if not flatter. and the idiot that said it weakens the surface is dumber than a box of rocks. vibrating concrete settles the concrete and actually makes it stronger. its been proven. all it takes with a power screed is a couple of good guys that know how to rake in frot of the screed and u will have an almost perfect floor.
budman7555 2 years ago
as for the foundation that has NOTHING to do with the placement and finishing of the concrete... if the builder didnt properly compact and or seal the earth beneeth the concrete then there an idiot and its completly there fault for a crack... now when it comes to weather if it doesnt have a chance to cure properly wether u have steel no steel your going to get cracks.... take this 5 minutes of reading and re think your trade
smotpoker15 2 years ago
if your compairing a bridge to a sidewalk drive way then man take all those years of concrete and throw it right out the window .... by the way im a red seal certified finisher... been around concrete my whole life.. you dont need steel in a drive way/ garage/ sidewalks.. you can add some steel mesh if going to be used in excess but you dont ever need steel unless you plan to park a lot of weight on it , you obviously need to add cuts off the corners of the forms and threw the middle.
smotpoker15 2 years ago
dude no it does not
wiggarigga 2 years ago
dude wtf are you talking about theyre using a mag screed rod. Using hand rods is the most accurate way to screed.
wiggarigga 2 years ago
u fuckin guys suck at raking. its a sinple 12 foot path and u cant even rake it +/- 1/2 inch.. goos luck on a real floor. u look like a bunch of green horns
shrekisreal 3 years ago
Everyone is so stupid. Most driveways really don't need rebar. It can crack anyway. The rebar helps it not seperate that much. It can still crack if you saw-cut it, but you should never have more than a 10x10ft section of concrete without a joint. Oh and a power screed is faster, but not better. the vibration pushes the rocks down, therfore weakening the top.
chadinem 3 years ago
Also, when are guys going to learn to use a power screed? a power screed is 20 times faster and gives a better concrete due to the vibratory movement of the board. Also these guys the use the straight bullfloats are ignorant, get a knuckle for it and extend ur reach twice as far.
budman7555 3 years ago
fuck off dude people don't need to use power screeds they leave your pour innaccurate, hand rodding is the best way. You may be able to haul ass with your power screed but i guarantee its nowhere near as accurate as hand rodding. I totally agree about the knuckle head bull floats
wiggarigga 2 years ago
I have been in concrete for almost 20 yrs. u can pour concrete without steel if u know what ur doing. there are several things that lead to cracks in concrete 1. rapid evaporation (shrinkage usually caused by hot weather)2. poor base, if u dig up the sod and put a gravel base in and compact it u will reduce ur chances of having a crack. concrete will eventually crack regardless of what u do. fiber mesh can replace steel but the secret is a good base. concrete needs some type of reinforcement.
budman7555 3 years ago
actually not true my friend, u only need stell if your putting massive weight on it, if u have 35 mpa with cuts, or saw cuts afterwords u can have it nice with out cracks forever... ive been placing and finishing concrete for 7 years.. i have dont lots of driveways with no steel. stick to carpet :p
smotpoker15 3 years ago
Thank god someone with a fucking brain. These stupid fuck probably read books , they don't have first hand experience, just like those fuckin architects, lol
wiggarigga 2 years ago
i know they keep talking about steel, fine if the earth beenth isnt properly compacted and or seald your going to get cracks no matter what ... you can add steel mesh if used in excess , and if it doesnt have a chance to cure properly in harsh weather conditions your going to get cracks regardless... god damn idiots thank god they didnt design the building i live in lol
smotpoker15 2 years ago
concrete needs rebar for strength, without it the driveway will crack. also i don't see any expansion joints. you may not see it now but you will in the long run.
hops152688 3 years ago
looks hot out and in the sun did it blow up on ya? (able to finish). Mag finish or broom. hell of a pour for 6 guys in the sun. I want to see after your done.
jrcbfun 3 years ago
they had lots of time.. looks juiced right up with plastizer.. and u can see the guy brooming in the very beginning
smotpoker15 3 years ago
no rebar?
hops152688 3 years ago
you dont need steel in driveways unless your parking a semi or RV on it...
smotpoker15 3 years ago
look some one knows how to work ...
cummins60 4 years ago
Nice work!
MrOffshore 4 years ago
that chute man sucked
jrocha82 4 years ago