easier than labeling the lines and hoses, just take good clear pictures prior to removing. Most of the time you dont need them but if you do they'll save your butt
There is an easier way to release the cam pulleys especially on an ej20, when you remove the cam covers you will notice on the cam shafts an unmachined/square finish located on a non essential part of the cam, you can get a spanner locked into this part or an adjustable wrench and hold it firm whilst you loosen the pulley bolts etc.. Works on the ej20 not sure if they are machined the same on the ej205 etc... Hope this helps ;)
when undoing the cam gears the G-clamp is not needed because if the belt is still on the cams moving will not be able to touch the piston to the valves.
@skankehz You are incorrect. The subaru EJ series engines are INTERFERENCE style engines. The valves will touch the pistons if timing is set incorrectly.
@DIYautotech as long as belt is left on when undoing the bolts the pistons are unable to touch valves because all components will move together.Onlly if the belt is removed, will the pistons hit the valves.
@skankehz Yes, but the torque of those cam bolts are MULTIPLIED due to the fact that they have been overtighted from rev launching & from spirited driving. Removing the bolts is impossible without clamping the belt, because the cam gear will skip teeth in the process, thus the valves WILL come in contact with the pistons.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I enjoy watching them. How is your ASE certification tests going? According to their site you need to pass the A1-A8 examinations to be master certified.
Nice to see this done without special tools. I've seen sarcastic comments from people who work in the industry, but I think those guys are off base. It may be easy enough if you work in a Subaru factory, but what if you need to work on a different vehicle? I'll bet even those cynics would find a way to make do....
Great Job man! I'm doing an EJ205 / EJ257 Hybrid build right now on my '03 WRX...used your technique with the cam gears
SoCalWFF 1 month ago
easier than labeling the lines and hoses, just take good clear pictures prior to removing. Most of the time you dont need them but if you do they'll save your butt
JOHNNYGIX 3 months ago
Forgot to say fantastic video by the way 5 star!!!
add996 4 months ago
There is an easier way to release the cam pulleys especially on an ej20, when you remove the cam covers you will notice on the cam shafts an unmachined/square finish located on a non essential part of the cam, you can get a spanner locked into this part or an adjustable wrench and hold it firm whilst you loosen the pulley bolts etc.. Works on the ej20 not sure if they are machined the same on the ej205 etc... Hope this helps ;)
add996 4 months ago
when undoing the cam gears the G-clamp is not needed because if the belt is still on the cams moving will not be able to touch the piston to the valves.
skankehz 5 months ago
@skankehz You are incorrect. The subaru EJ series engines are INTERFERENCE style engines. The valves will touch the pistons if timing is set incorrectly.
DIYautotech 5 months ago
@DIYautotech as long as belt is left on when undoing the bolts the pistons are unable to touch valves because all components will move together.Onlly if the belt is removed, will the pistons hit the valves.
skankehz 5 months ago
@skankehz Yes, but the torque of those cam bolts are MULTIPLIED due to the fact that they have been overtighted from rev launching & from spirited driving. Removing the bolts is impossible without clamping the belt, because the cam gear will skip teeth in the process, thus the valves WILL come in contact with the pistons.
I've built tons of these, believe me, I know.
DIYautotech 4 months ago 3
you sound like michael cera
kyleisreallycool 7 months ago
the crank pully is tightened to 120 ft-lbs
kylebielaproductions 7 months ago
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I enjoy watching them. How is your ASE certification tests going? According to their site you need to pass the A1-A8 examinations to be master certified.
•A1 – Engine Repair
•A2 – Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
•A3 – Manual Drive Train & Axles
•A4 – Suspension & Steering
•A5 – Brakes
•A6 – Electrical/Electronic Systems
•A7 – Heating & Air Conditioning
•A8 – Engine Performance
400whp240sx 8 months ago
Nice to see this done without special tools. I've seen sarcastic comments from people who work in the industry, but I think those guys are off base. It may be easy enough if you work in a Subaru factory, but what if you need to work on a different vehicle? I'll bet even those cynics would find a way to make do....
Thanks for posting.
spelunkerd 8 months ago