Thanks for the tips, this is great to watch before opening the manual. The factory manual provides little when it comes to tips and tricks. This made the job that much easier.
Thanks a lot for this info, and the others. Good stuff!
Hey, by the way, it would help if you got yourself a tripod, some of the sections are so bouncy I could not see what you were talking about, and I need as much detail as I can as I am new to this bike. Thanks again! Really great info, thanks for your time and efforts!
great video! thanks a lot for your work!! any suggestions on doing a 2007 with the little nubby thing between the rear bolts (how to get the head off)
i have a question ...rigth at 1:25 you mentioned a temperature wire is that the gauge reading one? my klr always read hot but fan works when suposed to and i am not boiling the water you think i have a problem with that wire?
i take that back! it doesnt read always hot ,it warms up to top red and fan comes on, i havent boil the water like i said but i dont think this is normal for a 2003 with 14 hundred miles .any ideas?? aprettiate your help !!!
i have a klr 250 and have not done the valves...they are supposed to all be between .008 and .009 inches, and that is the area between the cams looking identical on each side?? and the cams, the egg looking things are supposed to be pointed down??? i am a noooooob to engines!
If the 250 valve system is the same as the 650, then the .008 and .009" is between the cam and the valve shim when the cams (egg-shaped things) point AWAY from each other: exhaust pointing to the front of the bike and the intake point to the rear of the bike.
Great Video and thanks for doing it. I just did mine and they're now "slappy and happy". The only concern I had was accurately trying to determine the proper feeler gauge resistance. In the video it's mentioned as only a "slight resistance"... Well, that judgment of resistance can be very subjective. With a resistance window between .001in and .003in, I fear that I could have gone .001 over both, the intake and exhaust *max* ranges when trying to stay on the high side. Bike runs good though!
Kind of lost you at one point. It's where you figured out that the engine was not at TDC. So you said to remove the caps on the side cover with a large screw driver or quarter. But then it skips to checking the valve clearances. How did you get the engine to TDC?
thanks so much for posting this, I kinda know my way around two strokes but four strokes have always been daunting and this has helped take the edge off a bit :P 5 stars
Thanks for putting it together, Just looking at putting aside a weekend to work on my A17, and at 31,000 KMs figure checking out the valves would be good to do as well.
Thanks for the tips, this is great to watch before opening the manual. The factory manual provides little when it comes to tips and tricks. This made the job that much easier.
lsriley2 17 hours ago
Thanks for using our manual and mentioning Clymer in your description.
ClymerManuals 2 weeks ago
Geez, That is a freaking LONG description!
Thanks a lot for this info, and the others. Good stuff!
Hey, by the way, it would help if you got yourself a tripod, some of the sections are so bouncy I could not see what you were talking about, and I need as much detail as I can as I am new to this bike. Thanks again! Really great info, thanks for your time and efforts!
ChaplainC 5 months ago
PLEASE TRANSLATE TO SPANISH LENGUAGE WITH SUBTITLES ,THIS VIDEOS ARE VERY HELPFUL.THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
eldiegote788 5 months ago
what are the signs of loose valves is it just chatter and what is the sign tht they are are to tight ?
illegalPirates 1 year ago
hey dude do you put the silicone on 1 side only or on both sides?
itsonlyafl3shwound 1 year ago
You know your stuff! Did you ever replace a blown head gasket on a car?
themomo6710 1 year ago
Excellent video. Have you removed the carb before? I'd like to take mine off and clean it.
fixxitguy1 1 year ago
Yes, I have. Many times. It isn't too hard. I'll make a video when i take it off next time. Not sure when that'll be, though.
ghotioutofh2o 1 year ago
great video! thanks a lot for your work!! any suggestions on doing a 2007 with the little nubby thing between the rear bolts (how to get the head off)
radmanfel 1 year ago
Good video. It's too bad you couldn't put the camera on a tripod or get someone to hold the camera for you.
jigjag454 1 year ago
Not selfish. God will aways bless.
MightyWizard1970 2 years ago
good stuff bro...very brief...helped alot...keep up the good hand man.
dograman 2 years ago
Thank you for the maintenance tip videos
blindsleep 2 years ago
Very good video! This helped clarify a few things since I'm doing the same thing on a Ninja 250, but the concept is close to the same.
ZMagic97 2 years ago
i have a question ...rigth at 1:25 you mentioned a temperature wire is that the gauge reading one? my klr always read hot but fan works when suposed to and i am not boiling the water you think i have a problem with that wire?
estrelladelnorte1308 2 years ago
The wire I mention at 1:25 is the temp gauge wire, yes.
You likely have a short on that wire (to ground).
The fan runs off a different switch, which is on the bottom of the radiator on the left side of the bike. This is an analog switch (fan on, fan off).
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
i take that back! it doesnt read always hot ,it warms up to top red and fan comes on, i havent boil the water like i said but i dont think this is normal for a 2003 with 14 hundred miles .any ideas?? aprettiate your help !!!
estrelladelnorte1308 2 years ago
Possibly a bad (or on its way out) fan switch.
Does it do this even when you're moving, say, on the highway, or just letting it idle?
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
i have a klr 250 and have not done the valves...they are supposed to all be between .008 and .009 inches, and that is the area between the cams looking identical on each side?? and the cams, the egg looking things are supposed to be pointed down??? i am a noooooob to engines!
MikSane 2 years ago
If the 250 valve system is the same as the 650, then the .008 and .009" is between the cam and the valve shim when the cams (egg-shaped things) point AWAY from each other: exhaust pointing to the front of the bike and the intake point to the rear of the bike.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
very nice ! thanks to share this with we all :)
thytum 2 years ago
Great Video and thanks for doing it. I just did mine and they're now "slappy and happy". The only concern I had was accurately trying to determine the proper feeler gauge resistance. In the video it's mentioned as only a "slight resistance"... Well, that judgment of resistance can be very subjective. With a resistance window between .001in and .003in, I fear that I could have gone .001 over both, the intake and exhaust *max* ranges when trying to stay on the high side. Bike runs good though!
j77768z 2 years ago
If you get to a leaf that you can't slide under the cam, try the next one smaller; if that on can slide underneath, that's your measurement.
Sorry for the laggy response time.
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
I wanted one of these... but now I know why in all my years of riding and racing MX I NEVER had a 4 stroke.... so much for that.
Dp908 2 years ago
Maybe it's a stupid question..=) But do I have to drain the engine oil before I start the valve check procedure?
I have a very little experience working on bikes =)
Daniel508 2 years ago
No, you do not need to drain the oil.
If you drop something down the engine, it might help to find it. But just don't drop anything. :-)
ghotioutofh2o 2 years ago
Okay, thanks a lot mate =)
Daniel508 2 years ago
how do you know when to check the valves
spuck1234 3 years ago
Every 6,000 miles, after the initial 500 mile check up.
There's a table in the owner's manual with maintenance intervals for reference.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
I should have also added that I appreciate you taking the time to do the video. VERY helpful.
oparvez 3 years ago 7
Kind of lost you at one point. It's where you figured out that the engine was not at TDC. So you said to remove the caps on the side cover with a large screw driver or quarter. But then it skips to checking the valve clearances. How did you get the engine to TDC?
oparvez 3 years ago
Whoa, sorry, I didn't see this comment earlier. The video wouldn't have gone over the time limit if I had should that part.
In the description, there's a paragraph a little more than halfway down that describes what to do.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
do you have to check the valves every 500 miles??
copher1990 3 years ago
No. If you have a new bike, you should check the valves at or around the 500 - 600 mile mark, then roughly every 6,000 miles.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
thanks!
copher1990 3 years ago
No problem!
Glad I could help.
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
thanks so much for posting this, I kinda know my way around two strokes but four strokes have always been daunting and this has helped take the edge off a bit :P 5 stars
drinkzzzz 3 years ago
Thanks great detail, I wish I would have seen your video before my first shim replacement.
kekahardr 3 years ago
Thanks for giving back. I feel like I should pay you for that!
hedlundk 3 years ago
Well I certainly wouldn't turn down a donation!
ghotioutofh2o 3 years ago
Thank you for your excellent video. Very helpful.
lunchlinger 3 years ago
Very helpful video! I appreciate that you have some grease on your hands too. I'm about to get my first KLR 650, doing a cross-USA ride in October
HunterMann 3 years ago
Hey ghotioutofh20 Excellent Video!
Thanks for putting it together, Just looking at putting aside a weekend to work on my A17, and at 31,000 KMs figure checking out the valves would be good to do as well.
VIGUY
Victoria, BC, CA
Viguy 3 years ago