Nice Job! What is the mesh on that screen? Every time I do a job with a fabric that is 100% cotton and thick and heavy, the detail of the print doesn't look so pleasing. Like sometimes I get jagged edges. Maybe I will try that forward push that you guys are doing here.
@NgonHua - There is a bit more to it than just knowing the mesh, which I gave as 110/80 at 12Ncm2. Please see the other video entitled "Screenprinting - Secret to White on Black" in which I give a lengthy discourse on printing with One Hit White™
How did you coat this screen? Did you coat it yourself personally? I can see the other spec on the screen, but not that. It also appears to be a photopolymer. My guess is this... Ulano QTX is the product, 2 coats squeegee side - 2 coats stencil side. Dry, then 2 more stencil side. How close am I?
@inkstains1 - You are not close! The coating technique is not a matter of how many coats on each side, rather a prescribed buildup using a thickness gauge to pre-determine the end result.
@inkstains1 - I did not coat the screen myself. We just grabbed a screen that was already in production to show how easily this can be accomplished with the right ink. It is a diazo-photopolymer emulsion.
@inkstains1 - Hopefully you are not coating screens as you described. Your stencil will end up on the wrong side and you will be plagued with poor results. The stencil should always be on the bottom or substrate side of the screen. Your method would would push all of the emulsion to the squeegee side. Even with the 2 face coats, you would have created a poor stencil.
@billhoodconsulting Yeah I noticed i flipped that around, the last coat is always on the squeegee side. We have tried the dry and coat again, but never had any luck so we only coat them once. Because of this we have to flash whites.
@inkstains1 To add to that, we have a few of your books that we pass around, and we all have tried to alter this, but we all have ended up making a mess and want to try get it right. We can make a decent stencil for process and index, but need to tweek it to get a brilliant white. We are in the process of ditching the stretch and glue screens, but i can see that those do not stop you from getting great results, and you can make a nice white even without expensive changes to the process.
@inkstains1 - While you cannot expect to get great results from a stretch and glue frame, if you have the right ink it will work many times. I personally like for it to work every time, so I only use Newman Roller Frames, which are on sale at the Screenprint Store this week.
@inkstains1 - If you'd like you can surf over to SolutionsJournal and hit the forum link on the front page. Register for free and I will be happy to help you achieve your goals with more detail. They don't allow enough room here on YouTube to be specific.
What I find amazing is the large number of people who say a thing cannot be done, because they have never done it. A printers wrote in a trade magazine article that there is no such thing as "One Hit White," a phrase I coined some 27 years ago and have witnessed thousand of printers accomplish on a daily basis. Never say never!
Thanks, UltraSol Inks are part of the answer. The push stroke is great, but you will find that the best solution comes with proper screenmaking. Far to many myths exist about how to coat a screen. You can buy UltraSol Inks at the Screenprint Store online.
Bill it looks great! It's opacity was ultra bright, unlike the ink I use it leaves spots of black around. Then I have to continue to flash and dry, regardless if I use pull or push stroke. I watched most of your videos. I'm guessing my equipment is probably why I have to repeat light colors on dark shirts. I must try this ink! Thanks!
Nice Job! What is the mesh on that screen? Every time I do a job with a fabric that is 100% cotton and thick and heavy, the detail of the print doesn't look so pleasing. Like sometimes I get jagged edges. Maybe I will try that forward push that you guys are doing here.
NgonHua 4 months ago
@NgonHua - There is a bit more to it than just knowing the mesh, which I gave as 110/80 at 12Ncm2. Please see the other video entitled "Screenprinting - Secret to White on Black" in which I give a lengthy discourse on printing with One Hit White™
billhoodconsulting 4 months ago
Awww! White ink!
SunshineScreenPrints 4 months ago
How did you coat this screen? Did you coat it yourself personally? I can see the other spec on the screen, but not that. It also appears to be a photopolymer. My guess is this... Ulano QTX is the product, 2 coats squeegee side - 2 coats stencil side. Dry, then 2 more stencil side. How close am I?
inkstains1 1 year ago
@inkstains1 - You are not close! The coating technique is not a matter of how many coats on each side, rather a prescribed buildup using a thickness gauge to pre-determine the end result.
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
@inkstains1 - I did not coat the screen myself. We just grabbed a screen that was already in production to show how easily this can be accomplished with the right ink. It is a diazo-photopolymer emulsion.
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
@inkstains1 - Hopefully you are not coating screens as you described. Your stencil will end up on the wrong side and you will be plagued with poor results. The stencil should always be on the bottom or substrate side of the screen. Your method would would push all of the emulsion to the squeegee side. Even with the 2 face coats, you would have created a poor stencil.
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
@billhoodconsulting Yeah I noticed i flipped that around, the last coat is always on the squeegee side. We have tried the dry and coat again, but never had any luck so we only coat them once. Because of this we have to flash whites.
inkstains1 1 year ago
@inkstains1 To add to that, we have a few of your books that we pass around, and we all have tried to alter this, but we all have ended up making a mess and want to try get it right. We can make a decent stencil for process and index, but need to tweek it to get a brilliant white. We are in the process of ditching the stretch and glue screens, but i can see that those do not stop you from getting great results, and you can make a nice white even without expensive changes to the process.
inkstains1 1 year ago
@inkstains1 - While you cannot expect to get great results from a stretch and glue frame, if you have the right ink it will work many times. I personally like for it to work every time, so I only use Newman Roller Frames, which are on sale at the Screenprint Store this week.
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
@inkstains1 - If you'd like you can surf over to SolutionsJournal and hit the forum link on the front page. Register for free and I will be happy to help you achieve your goals with more detail. They don't allow enough room here on YouTube to be specific.
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
What I find amazing is the large number of people who say a thing cannot be done, because they have never done it. A printers wrote in a trade magazine article that there is no such thing as "One Hit White," a phrase I coined some 27 years ago and have witnessed thousand of printers accomplish on a daily basis. Never say never!
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
Thanks, UltraSol Inks are part of the answer. The push stroke is great, but you will find that the best solution comes with proper screenmaking. Far to many myths exist about how to coat a screen. You can buy UltraSol Inks at the Screenprint Store online.
billhoodconsulting 1 year ago
Bill it looks great! It's opacity was ultra bright, unlike the ink I use it leaves spots of black around. Then I have to continue to flash and dry, regardless if I use pull or push stroke. I watched most of your videos. I'm guessing my equipment is probably why I have to repeat light colors on dark shirts. I must try this ink! Thanks!
ch1ro420 2 years ago