im building a cell out of pvc. what do i need for a 20 lpm production on demand ststem. if you look up dingels invention he does this with nothing fancy but i dont know how he does it.
I invented a breakthrough renewable source of energy that violates the law of energy conservation. I have a proof that there are phenomena that violate the law of energy conservation. I am looking for $6M for a prototype and patents.
Maybe you shouldn't think about the current, but the frequency so that you can resonate the molecules at there resonance frequency making it easier to fracture the H2O at lower current, as in Stan meyers D14 document.
hey, i made an hho-cell myself, but it has a very high resistance. Can you give me some hints how to decrease the resistance of my cell? (i don´t really want to use a different electrolyte, i´m using sodium hydroxide)
If you seriously think that you can get an ACCURATE mileage figure by filling your tank twice and using a calculator, the ONLY one you're fooling is yourself!!!!
The ONLY way to achieve a practical use of the HHO generator is to segregate it from your vehicle's electrical system by using a bank of batteries, several cells and then re-charging the batteries with your home's 110 vac power.
In short, there's NO such thing as perpetual energy and that's PRECISELY what these "experts" are trying get people to spend your money on.
The ONLY way to "calculate" gas mileage is with a ScanGauge trip computer and that can only be done using OBD2 on a '96 or newer car. All else is nothing but a huge fairy tale.
Here's the facts: The amount of HHO produced by a hydrogen generator drawing 20 amps is so minuscule that when applying it to a V-8 engine the cell is taxing the horsepower draw on the engine and it can't possibly overcome the horsepower loss.
While it's true that ANYONE can build a hydrogen generator that will produce 1, 2, or even 3 liters-per-minute of HHO, it's laughable that NO ONE has shown any ACCURATE mileage improvements by using one. All that crap of filling your tank.....driving 50 miles.....and calculating the mileage is about as accurate as measuring the weight of a diamond with a pot scale!!
I hope I'm wrong, but on your last lawnmover video you mentioned 2 liters pm production and the lawn mower died. Is this the lawn mover or the hho production lacking to keep it working?
A team I am with here in Louisiana have been working on a hydrogen on demand system and am happy to announce we have just achieved 7.87 MMW with no electronics what so ever. We are hoping to increase this with your PWM and some more tweaking.
That is coming. We confirmed the numbers with another set of meters. What is the best realistic numbers (mmw) that you know of? Also wondering what ever happened to the spiral cell. Saw it in vid #61 but no test results. We tried a spiral and it was very disappointing.
Hey Zero, I want to make an HHO torch that plugs directly into 120V AC 60Hz without any transformer or electronics. Got any suggestions?
I need it for brazing copper lines up to 3/8 inch most of the time and up to 1 inch on occasion. Using it to custom weld stainless steel would be an excellent plus! I could use fewer parts that way.
MPG on the wife's trip started out about 53mpg for about the first 1/2 hour to hour (based on notches on the gas gauge - .875 gal per notch), but as time went on, the mpg dropped significantly and she was actually getting less mpg that she would have gotten without the HHO.
I had several vacuum leaks in my setup. I fixed them, but still no increase.
Later I found out the the car's computer has 'adaptive memory' and now I will have to fool at least one or 2 more sensors to get the MPG increase locked in.
1. fill the car up with gasoline and reset your trip odometer. 2. Drive until you have 1/4 tank or less and fill up. 3. Now divide your trip miles by the number of gallons you just put in your tank. This is a much better way to measure your mpg. The fuel guage on the dash board is usually based on a floater on a stick in your tank. Similar to a toilet. They are just a rough estimate and do not account for the shape of your tank either.
1. fill the car up with gasoline and reset your trip odometer. 2. Drive until you have 1/4 tank or less and fill up. 3. Now divide your trip miles by the number of gallons you just put in your tank. This is a much better way to measure your mpg. The fuel guage on the dash board is usually based on a floater on a stick in your tank. Similar to a toilet. They are just a rough estimate and do not account for the shape of your tank either.
I temporarily settled on a pyramid design. Plates closer at the top, wider at the bottom.
It seems to work pretty well, but I think I put in too much baking soda.
My theory is this: as the electrolyte level diminishes over time, the wider plates at the bottom should help keep the amp draw lower and still produce HHO.
My wife will be testing the new cell (fashioned after the above) to go from here to Kansas. 800 miles one way should be a good test.
Check valves are not fast enough to prevent flaskback and should not be used for this purpose. As long as you have a membrane blowout and you don't pump out any straight foam into the intake you should be okay. Check it once in a while on the trip to be sure.
I tested the cell for 72 miles. I can't tell what MPG I'm getting yet. But it looks promising.
I had to drain 1/2 of the electrolyte and add fresh dist water to dilute it. I used 1/2 of the water in only 70 miles. Now, with a 6 plate setup (+nn-nn+) drawing 5.5 amps on startup, I should extend the water by double. No fun every 2 hours filling either the gas or water on a long trip - LOL
Still waiting on my custom plates...
PS no blowout membrane & no foam I can see just fizzing.
I noticed that my cell takes about 1 hour to get to full temperature. My temps run between 150F and 180F depending on how much baking soda I use. Prior to 150F, I don't seem to get enough HHO generated. Also, I plan on farming out the custom cutting of my plates. I can't seem to cut them straight enough. Lastly, I plan on using a + - + arrangement with 4 to 6 neutrals between each plate & electrode...
A) There is very little waste heat energy in this cell design. Takes almost an hour for it to heat 1.4L of water to it's maximum operating temp of 125*F.
Hey Zero, I plan to use 13 plates or more if I can, very closely spaced. Will I have any problems? Plates will be 20Ga 304 SS, 2" wide x 6" long in a 3" pvc that is 12" tall. Baking Soda for the electrolyte.
Also, I will be using very thin nylon washers. Single washer spacing at the bottom of my plates, and double washers for spacing near the top of the assembly. Then I will be using the generator under vacuum.
Can you email me asap? I will be assembling it tomorrow (Thursday).
Why not make the canister out of Stainless and use it as part of the cell for the negative electrode?
Also if the efficiency drops off at higher temps, you can add cooling fins (heat sinks) to the outside of the canister to help bring the temp back down.
I think that PWM will come in handy! I have found that metal fittings with plastic aren't a good combination. They tend to loosen up with higher temps. If anyone can do this successfully it is you!
I wonder if you could gain efficency and compensate for when the cell is cold by pumping the electrolyte through the cell?
Maybe an aquarium pump mounted to the site glass, and a tube inside directing the flow to the bottom of the stack?
Eventually, mounting the plates like turbine blades in a circular cell and inducing a vortex flow of the electrolyte as it exits the top might be the answer to maximizing exposed surface area if inducing electrolyte flow ends up making a difference.
have a look at a user called hohcells. his cell has a continuously circulating electrolyte... i think he does that mainly to keep deposits from building up in the cell.
a radial arrangement of plates could be interesting in that it would provide a larger surface area for the plates in the same volume... however, i can see this as being harder to build and also having an inconsistent distance between plates.
yes. Hence the 'eventually'. But I'm wondering if a person might get ahold of some damaged or quality reject turbine blades for model airplane turbines to play with. I trust ZFF would find a way to make use of them if he felt it was worth his time.
Anyway, for now the aquarium pump could test if this particular cell would realize a benefit from forced circulation.
The HHOmeter is old dude, look through his films, you'll find like the 20th is how he built it, #40 shows a redesign I believe. ZFF has conducted quite a tutorial and everything he has shown so far has had an explanation (except for maybe the oscilliscope, but if you need an explanation of that, then the PWM will be a little over your head)
Can you increase the efficiency by using PWM drive and/or some kind of a resonance? Through giving time for the pubbles to resonate with the feed current.
finlander1000: I believe ZFF has explained that this is a VSPB (the 'b' standing for brute force which means straight-dc). I think he plans on doing a PWM addition later to compare results.
Great videos Zero!Finally signed up for "you tube" because of you! Waiting on your videos is like waiting for Christmas,takes too long but sure is worth it! Has anyone thought of using a turbo timer to run the engine after hho shutdown,and does anyone think it would be possible to use a jy airbag relay to kill hho in case of wreck?Keep the videos coming Zero you got my butt in gear.octfifty
Hey brother, I have a question, that you have probably answered. Would the surface of the plates matter? I remember an episode of myth busters, where thy discuss the mentos candy and diet coke reaction . The candy is covered in tiny caverns and craters. Would a "ruff" surface improve production? Keep up the good work
I think we should be careful with the ire directed towards oil companies. Their job is to drill, find and refine oil.. and they are quite good at it. Because they don't work to put themselves out of business, we can't fault them for that. Self reliance to find our own solution (Or let zero do all the work and thank him greatly for it!!) is the American way.. moreso than waiting like baby birds in a nest for some "big company" to barf the solution down our chirping throats.
well done you seem to be in a race with yourself .lol youre certainly faster than last time , ..good videos ! good science < congrats from Sinclair research
I am trying to keep the video segments down in size a bit to make them easier to watch and hopefully entertaining at the same time. I want everyone building these things and raising their middle fingers to big oil.
Did you say you are using 4 gauge wire? That should be more than sufficient to prevent the wire heating up. The heat must be coming from the cell itself, dont you think?
Yes, I think you're right. It must be coming from the plates and traveling up through the electrodes. No big deal. Still only barely warm to the touch.
Should you not try to keep it as cool as possible instead? Since the heat is proportional to the amount of lost efficiency. Maybe the cell voltage is too high for optimum production?
I have heard that you should get near 80% efficiency when everything is optimum.
Instead of cooking the water producing HHO.. ?? :)
I agreee I'm pushing it pretty hard at 14.5V with the bench supply. I backed off the current last night to 15A and the voltage settled in around 13. Efficiency rose to 5.15 mmw. As expected I'm just over the peak into overdrive at 13.8v which is where I want it to be.
Hi, watching your progress with much interest from the UK. Excellent work ! You mentioned increased HHO production with increased temp - surely by placing the cell in your engine bay, the cell won't need to generate so much heat itself? (= increased cell efficiency)
If so, I'm thinking a water jacket from the engine coolant could be an idea...
That idea has been tossed around. If I do, it will be just a simple copper tube wrapped around the body of the main PVC body between the end caps with some sort of thermally conductive adhesive to hold it to the cell.
I'm sorry but calibrated eyeballs can only be developed over time and are usually process specific. An eyeball that has become calibrated for more than one process is a gift from God.
A) I have never had an unexpected flashback in any of my cells on any vehicle, carbeurated or FI. Not ever.
B) It's the only vehicle I drive enough to get any testing done at all.
C) I will be performing flaskback ignition testing to ensure that the blowout mechanisms work as advertised and prevent damage to the vehicle and to itself.
A good source of materials for this project in the UK would be a builders merchants. They also sell specialist PVC pipe that is more heat and acid resistant in some cases. Another place to try is a local plumbing wholesaler. Hope this helps
If you were to take a series of measurements over a wide range of (Power In) vs. the amount of (Hydrogen Out) such as PI/HO you might find the process to be non-linear. In which case, you might be saturating the cell or even under driving the cell. In other words there might be a "sweet spot". (Just like when hitting a baseball with a baseball bat.)
I think saturation comes as a result of too much gas trapped between plates but that it only limits production, not efficiency. That seems to be pretty flat.
excuse my ignorance... at what mmw does the cell become 100% efficient? i.e. all electrical energy that goes in is recovered by burning or using the HHO in a fuel cell (the other kind)?
since you're planning to use the cell in a car... and the cell being 75% efficient... doesn't that work against the aim of using less gasoline? since you will be using gas to produce kinetic energy, kinetic energy to produce electricity, electricity to produce HHO, HHO to produce kinetic energy... losing energy at each step and hence using more gas in the end...
Not when you consider the effect hho has on the combustion of gasoline. Add to that the ICE is only about 18% eff. An HHO cell could easily be powered from waste heat energy, i.e. TEM or turbo driven alternator.
The sum total of all of these is something far greater than 18% eff.
I like how you put that "wasted energy"...I thought I was the only one who noticed the concept of HHO for the car...now I know I'm not crazy. Wish I could beat the concept into this guy I know...sheesh, some people just won't open their minds! Good job on the production by the way! I would put it through a cold-bubbler and measure before/after weight of the bubbler to see if there is any condensate.
im building a cell out of pvc. what do i need for a 20 lpm production on demand ststem. if you look up dingels invention he does this with nothing fancy but i dont know how he does it.
zachb657 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
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henrykay01 1 year ago
very good,
I did test with baking soda and salt, was not very good could show me a solção?
I would like to do some testing here in Brazil and I have good results with the help of you.
thanks.
admnrv 2 years ago
great production! i have made a few cells and i cant get near that kind of production. can you share the construction specs of your cell?
kirt660 2 years ago
Maybe you shouldn't think about the current, but the frequency so that you can resonate the molecules at there resonance frequency making it easier to fracture the H2O at lower current, as in Stan meyers D14 document.
alterntech 3 years ago
hey, i made an hho-cell myself, but it has a very high resistance. Can you give me some hints how to decrease the resistance of my cell? (i don´t really want to use a different electrolyte, i´m using sodium hydroxide)
sciencoking 3 years ago
zero I recomend swithcing to ABS for perfect seals say bye bye to leaks. I would also suggest submersing bolts on future builds.
hhoguru232004 3 years ago
If you seriously think that you can get an ACCURATE mileage figure by filling your tank twice and using a calculator, the ONLY one you're fooling is yourself!!!!
Legman815 3 years ago
You're right and I have stated since that my original results were an anomaly.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
The ONLY way to achieve a practical use of the HHO generator is to segregate it from your vehicle's electrical system by using a bank of batteries, several cells and then re-charging the batteries with your home's 110 vac power.
In short, there's NO such thing as perpetual energy and that's PRECISELY what these "experts" are trying get people to spend your money on.
Legman815 3 years ago
The ONLY way to "calculate" gas mileage is with a ScanGauge trip computer and that can only be done using OBD2 on a '96 or newer car. All else is nothing but a huge fairy tale.
Here's the facts: The amount of HHO produced by a hydrogen generator drawing 20 amps is so minuscule that when applying it to a V-8 engine the cell is taxing the horsepower draw on the engine and it can't possibly overcome the horsepower loss.
Legman815 3 years ago
While it's true that ANYONE can build a hydrogen generator that will produce 1, 2, or even 3 liters-per-minute of HHO, it's laughable that NO ONE has shown any ACCURATE mileage improvements by using one. All that crap of filling your tank.....driving 50 miles.....and calculating the mileage is about as accurate as measuring the weight of a diamond with a pot scale!!
Legman815 3 years ago
the second part from the playlist doesnt load it says 'Invalid arguments'
initrm 3 years ago
I hope I'm wrong, but on your last lawnmover video you mentioned 2 liters pm production and the lawn mower died. Is this the lawn mover or the hho production lacking to keep it working?
patinhouston 3 years ago
do you have stainless plates or copper wire? running on the inside?
cocodapitbull 3 years ago
Where do you get those big power supplies?
I was using a 15amp battery charger and I broke it. I put a fuse on my electrolyzer and it blew a 30amp fuse!..
How can I reduce amperage on it? More neutral plates or possibly a resistor inline?
My config is (-n+n-n+n-n+). any Tips?
wh333t 3 years ago
What is your best production? MMW
fossilless 3 years ago
Night before last. 5.40 mmw!
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
A team I am with here in Louisiana have been working on a hydrogen on demand system and am happy to announce we have just achieved 7.87 MMW with no electronics what so ever. We are hoping to increase this with your PWM and some more tweaking.
fossilless 3 years ago
Pictures? Video?
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
That is coming. We confirmed the numbers with another set of meters. What is the best realistic numbers (mmw) that you know of? Also wondering what ever happened to the spiral cell. Saw it in vid #61 but no test results. We tried a spiral and it was very disappointing.
fossilless 3 years ago
is 560 mlpm (mele liter pay minots) is that inoghe to save some gas in the car?
sorry for the english!!
zidane444 3 years ago
Probably not. Your minumum target should be at least 2 LPM (2000 ml/min).
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Can you achieve 2L/M with out PWM?
wh333t 3 years ago
Hey Zero, I want to make an HHO torch that plugs directly into 120V AC 60Hz without any transformer or electronics. Got any suggestions?
I need it for brazing copper lines up to 3/8 inch most of the time and up to 1 inch on occasion. Using it to custom weld stainless steel would be an excellent plus! I could use fewer parts that way.
Zolar1 3 years ago
hey where can I get one of those neat ir thermal unit?
mymessagetomark 3 years ago
Harbor Freight.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
thank you very much I have enjoyed your posts very much and learned quite a bit from them. Mark
mymessagetomark 3 years ago
MPG on the wife's trip started out about 53mpg for about the first 1/2 hour to hour (based on notches on the gas gauge - .875 gal per notch), but as time went on, the mpg dropped significantly and she was actually getting less mpg that she would have gotten without the HHO.
Could it be a heat problem? A vacuum leak?
Zolar1 3 years ago
Could be anything. My crystal ball does not reach that far.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
OK, here's what I discovered:
I had several vacuum leaks in my setup. I fixed them, but still no increase.
Later I found out the the car's computer has 'adaptive memory' and now I will have to fool at least one or 2 more sensors to get the MPG increase locked in.
Zolar1 3 years ago
most gas gauges move faster as they approach empty.
joel383 3 years ago
1. fill the car up with gasoline and reset your trip odometer. 2. Drive until you have 1/4 tank or less and fill up. 3. Now divide your trip miles by the number of gallons you just put in your tank. This is a much better way to measure your mpg. The fuel guage on the dash board is usually based on a floater on a stick in your tank. Similar to a toilet. They are just a rough estimate and do not account for the shape of your tank either.
crazychickenhead 3 years ago
1. fill the car up with gasoline and reset your trip odometer. 2. Drive until you have 1/4 tank or less and fill up. 3. Now divide your trip miles by the number of gallons you just put in your tank. This is a much better way to measure your mpg. The fuel guage on the dash board is usually based on a floater on a stick in your tank. Similar to a toilet. They are just a rough estimate and do not account for the shape of your tank either.
crazychickenhead 3 years ago
I temporarily settled on a pyramid design. Plates closer at the top, wider at the bottom.
It seems to work pretty well, but I think I put in too much baking soda.
My theory is this: as the electrolyte level diminishes over time, the wider plates at the bottom should help keep the amp draw lower and still produce HHO.
My wife will be testing the new cell (fashioned after the above) to go from here to Kansas. 800 miles one way should be a good test.
No bubbler, but do have a check valve.
Zolar1 3 years ago
Check valves are not fast enough to prevent flaskback and should not be used for this purpose. As long as you have a membrane blowout and you don't pump out any straight foam into the intake you should be okay. Check it once in a while on the trip to be sure.
And good luck with your test!
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
I tested the cell for 72 miles. I can't tell what MPG I'm getting yet. But it looks promising.
I had to drain 1/2 of the electrolyte and add fresh dist water to dilute it. I used 1/2 of the water in only 70 miles. Now, with a 6 plate setup (+nn-nn+) drawing 5.5 amps on startup, I should extend the water by double. No fun every 2 hours filling either the gas or water on a long trip - LOL
Still waiting on my custom plates...
PS no blowout membrane & no foam I can see just fizzing.
Zolar1 3 years ago
I have a similar cell and I my heat is much higher. After about 15 min I was boiling the water. How do you keep your at 125?
makis96 3 years ago
Another question please -
Just how much hydrogen do I really need before being forced to modify things with an EFIE and etc?
Does such a tiny bit really make that much of a difference?
PS my amp draw is around 8 to 16 depending on plate configuration and electrolyte concentration.
I was running it on a 12 amp (50 amp boost) type battery charger.
Zolar1 3 years ago
...with spacing of about 10 thousandths of an inch or so in between. Real computer stores sell heat sinks and thermal adhesive compound.
Appliance parts suppliers sell thermal Mastic which can work as well.
Zolar1 3 years ago
Regarding Heat generated:
I noticed that my cell takes about 1 hour to get to full temperature. My temps run between 150F and 180F depending on how much baking soda I use. Prior to 150F, I don't seem to get enough HHO generated. Also, I plan on farming out the custom cutting of my plates. I can't seem to cut them straight enough. Lastly, I plan on using a + - + arrangement with 4 to 6 neutrals between each plate & electrode...
Any thoughts??
Zolar1 3 years ago
4 to 6 neutrals between each electrode I mean - sheesh! Long day fooling with my plates and configuration...
Zolar1 3 years ago
Why not add a seeter and pelter device in there and utilize the WASTE heat
ashtweth 3 years ago
A) There is very little waste heat energy in this cell design. Takes almost an hour for it to heat 1.4L of water to it's maximum operating temp of 125*F.
B) What on Earth is a seeter and pelter device?
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Goto - Wiki -Thermoelectric_effect
ashtweth 3 years ago
Oh, it's a TEM. Okay. Much too inefficient at extracting heat energy to electricity.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Hey Zero, I plan to use 13 plates or more if I can, very closely spaced. Will I have any problems? Plates will be 20Ga 304 SS, 2" wide x 6" long in a 3" pvc that is 12" tall. Baking Soda for the electrolyte.
Also, I will be using very thin nylon washers. Single washer spacing at the bottom of my plates, and double washers for spacing near the top of the assembly. Then I will be using the generator under vacuum.
Can you email me asap? I will be assembling it tomorrow (Thursday).
Zolar1 3 years ago
Why not make the canister out of Stainless and use it as part of the cell for the negative electrode?
Also if the efficiency drops off at higher temps, you can add cooling fins (heat sinks) to the outside of the canister to help bring the temp back down.
mitchamus 3 years ago
Nice gas production!! I see a canister failure in your future.
hydrogenassist 3 years ago
Time will tell.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
I think that PWM will come in handy! I have found that metal fittings with plastic aren't a good combination. They tend to loosen up with higher temps. If anyone can do this successfully it is you!
hydrogenassist 3 years ago
I wonder if you could gain efficency and compensate for when the cell is cold by pumping the electrolyte through the cell?
Maybe an aquarium pump mounted to the site glass, and a tube inside directing the flow to the bottom of the stack?
Eventually, mounting the plates like turbine blades in a circular cell and inducing a vortex flow of the electrolyte as it exits the top might be the answer to maximizing exposed surface area if inducing electrolyte flow ends up making a difference.
maceblackhammer 3 years ago
have a look at a user called hohcells. his cell has a continuously circulating electrolyte... i think he does that mainly to keep deposits from building up in the cell.
a radial arrangement of plates could be interesting in that it would provide a larger surface area for the plates in the same volume... however, i can see this as being harder to build and also having an inconsistent distance between plates.
librano 3 years ago
yes. Hence the 'eventually'. But I'm wondering if a person might get ahold of some damaged or quality reject turbine blades for model airplane turbines to play with. I trust ZFF would find a way to make use of them if he felt it was worth his time.
Anyway, for now the aquarium pump could test if this particular cell would realize a benefit from forced circulation.
maceblackhammer 3 years ago
hey Zero how did you construct your HHOmeter?
Where did you get the 10$ temp gauge?
thanks
moreoverunity 3 years ago
opp 6$ dollar.. sounds like another Harbor Freight tool.. lol..
Please show how you build that hhometer!
ps
My cells get to 150-175F after one hour of running..pulling 14-16amps
moreoverunity 3 years ago
The HHOmeter is old dude, look through his films, you'll find like the 20th is how he built it, #40 shows a redesign I believe. ZFF has conducted quite a tutorial and everything he has shown so far has had an explanation (except for maybe the oscilliscope, but if you need an explanation of that, then the PWM will be a little over your head)
sabriath 3 years ago
BTW: Check the latest video from YouTube user "hohcells". He has all the parts that are needed for a carburated vehicle installation:
Video name:
"HOH Cells - Mileage increased by over 50%"
Best regards!
finlander1000 3 years ago
Can you increase the efficiency by using PWM drive and/or some kind of a resonance? Through giving time for the pubbles to resonate with the feed current.
finlander1000 3 years ago
finlander1000: I believe ZFF has explained that this is a VSPB (the 'b' standing for brute force which means straight-dc). I think he plans on doing a PWM addition later to compare results.
sabriath 3 years ago
Great videos Zero!Finally signed up for "you tube" because of you! Waiting on your videos is like waiting for Christmas,takes too long but sure is worth it! Has anyone thought of using a turbo timer to run the engine after hho shutdown,and does anyone think it would be possible to use a jy airbag relay to kill hho in case of wreck?Keep the videos coming Zero you got my butt in gear.octfifty
octfifty 3 years ago
hey ZFF how many PSI does it produce when its acticated?
Morbian13 3 years ago
Hey brother, I have a question, that you have probably answered. Would the surface of the plates matter? I remember an episode of myth busters, where thy discuss the mentos candy and diet coke reaction . The candy is covered in tiny caverns and craters. Would a "ruff" surface improve production? Keep up the good work
Maxx13dead 3 years ago
What about a trapazoid shaped cell, that would allow a higher electrolite velocity flow towards the top to detach the gas bubbles faster?
Yeowzers235 3 years ago
Hey Folks,
I think we should be careful with the ire directed towards oil companies. Their job is to drill, find and refine oil.. and they are quite good at it. Because they don't work to put themselves out of business, we can't fault them for that. Self reliance to find our own solution (Or let zero do all the work and thank him greatly for it!!) is the American way.. moreso than waiting like baby birds in a nest for some "big company" to barf the solution down our chirping throats.
Carry on
Yeowzers235 3 years ago
tochey!
jcndizo 3 years ago
In honor of Big Oil I raise my middle fingers three times per day; breakfast, lunch and dinner !!!
SCALARRICH 3 years ago
hi
well done you seem to be in a race with yourself .lol youre certainly faster than last time , ..good videos ! good science < congrats from Sinclair research
keith
SINCLAIRRESEARCH 3 years ago
I am trying to keep the video segments down in size a bit to make them easier to watch and hopefully entertaining at the same time. I want everyone building these things and raising their middle fingers to big oil.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Did you say you are using 4 gauge wire? That should be more than sufficient to prevent the wire heating up. The heat must be coming from the cell itself, dont you think?
Voice0fEnergy 3 years ago
Yes, I think you're right. It must be coming from the plates and traveling up through the electrodes. No big deal. Still only barely warm to the touch.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
I live slightly above 10,000 ft, 40% less oxygen, water boils around 190 deg F. Should I modify anything to compensate for altitude?
Thanks; your enthusiasm is contagious.
SCALARRICH 3 years ago
Hmmm, maybe design the cell to hold a little back pressure through a spring loaded one way valve?
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Should you not try to keep it as cool as possible instead? Since the heat is proportional to the amount of lost efficiency. Maybe the cell voltage is too high for optimum production?
I have heard that you should get near 80% efficiency when everything is optimum.
Instead of cooking the water producing HHO.. ?? :)
conradsh451 3 years ago
I agreee I'm pushing it pretty hard at 14.5V with the bench supply. I backed off the current last night to 15A and the voltage settled in around 13. Efficiency rose to 5.15 mmw. As expected I'm just over the peak into overdrive at 13.8v which is where I want it to be.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Hi, watching your progress with much interest from the UK. Excellent work ! You mentioned increased HHO production with increased temp - surely by placing the cell in your engine bay, the cell won't need to generate so much heat itself? (= increased cell efficiency)
If so, I'm thinking a water jacket from the engine coolant could be an idea...
djmidg 3 years ago
That idea has been tossed around. If I do, it will be just a simple copper tube wrapped around the body of the main PVC body between the end caps with some sort of thermally conductive adhesive to hold it to the cell.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Awesome man, you'll have fun with the installation I know it. 5 stars
babyella07 3 years ago
Resonant tank Circuits anyone? Possibly with inductors? Bifilar chokes no electrolyte? Hope so eventually.
flipster12000 3 years ago
Me too!
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Great job bro. Very impressive as always.
You still havent provided me with a link for the eyeball calibration device! Pls help!
Lefty
Leftwings22 3 years ago
I'm sorry but calibrated eyeballs can only be developed over time and are usually process specific. An eyeball that has become calibrated for more than one process is a gift from God.
Z
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
My wife's father just got lasik surgery...he threw his glasses away permanently. I'd recommend it for eyeball calibration.
lol
sabriath 3 years ago
Damn good job ZFF!
flipster12000 3 years ago
Tomorrow I start installing on the truck!
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
You will be in the poo big time if you blow the companies truck. Your car would be better as it is not a "bread & butter" vehicle.
viking1au 3 years ago
Not to worry.
A) I have never had an unexpected flashback in any of my cells on any vehicle, carbeurated or FI. Not ever.
B) It's the only vehicle I drive enough to get any testing done at all.
C) I will be performing flaskback ignition testing to ensure that the blowout mechanisms work as advertised and prevent damage to the vehicle and to itself.
Filming that is going to be fun! :-D
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
Oh one more question:Can i use resin instead of the marine goop or it will desolve?
gdjohny 3 years ago
I think resin would be to brittle. Also, you can find PVC material just about anywhere. Do a GOOGLE search for PVC.
jcndizo 3 years ago
Can any one help me to find the parts needed to build the cell housing lieke the one ZFF made?I live in the UK and i cant find parts anywhere.
gdjohny 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I would be willing to locate and ship the parts to you. Contact me on my YouTube page.
cuke8466 3 years ago
A good source of materials for this project in the UK would be a builders merchants. They also sell specialist PVC pipe that is more heat and acid resistant in some cases. Another place to try is a local plumbing wholesaler. Hope this helps
ZA123JJPETERS 3 years ago
2nd run. 3.333 LPM @667W (14.5v, 46A) = 5mmw. Ending temp 130*F.
As far as I can tell, temp increases production because it increases current but it doesn't seem to have any impact on overall efficiency.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
So what's next?
jcndizo 3 years ago
If you were to take a series of measurements over a wide range of (Power In) vs. the amount of (Hydrogen Out) such as PI/HO you might find the process to be non-linear. In which case, you might be saturating the cell or even under driving the cell. In other words there might be a "sweet spot". (Just like when hitting a baseball with a baseball bat.)
jcndizo 3 years ago
I think saturation comes as a result of too much gas trapped between plates but that it only limits production, not efficiency. That seems to be pretty flat.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
great stuff! this is quite exciting :)
excuse my ignorance... at what mmw does the cell become 100% efficient? i.e. all electrical energy that goes in is recovered by burning or using the HHO in a fuel cell (the other kind)?
librano 3 years ago
Depends on whose numbers you boil it down from. Generally speaking, somewhere around 7mmw is 100% efficient. I'm somewhere close to 75%.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
since you're planning to use the cell in a car... and the cell being 75% efficient... doesn't that work against the aim of using less gasoline? since you will be using gas to produce kinetic energy, kinetic energy to produce electricity, electricity to produce HHO, HHO to produce kinetic energy... losing energy at each step and hence using more gas in the end...
please tell me where i'm wrong...
librano 3 years ago
Not when you consider the effect hho has on the combustion of gasoline. Add to that the ICE is only about 18% eff. An HHO cell could easily be powered from waste heat energy, i.e. TEM or turbo driven alternator.
The sum total of all of these is something far greater than 18% eff.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
aha! i see where this is going... thanks for answering my questions ZFF...
using biodiesel and this cell could give us a truly ZFF car today!
librano 3 years ago
Actually temp increases production and efficiency to point. Check out Gibb's free energy.
i5ere 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
It works good!
jcndizo 3 years ago
If the goel is to make as much gas as you can, then why dont you line up your cells? one other thing.. have you made one of your cells into a torch?
AudiMoney 3 years ago
Anyone can stack up cells and get more gas at the expense of wasted energy. My goal is to make them as efficient as possible.
And yes, I have hsed my previous VSPB cell in the wallmart jar as a HHO source for the torch. It only makes 1.5LPM but even that was quite effective.
ZeroFossilFuel 3 years ago
I like how you put that "wasted energy"...I thought I was the only one who noticed the concept of HHO for the car...now I know I'm not crazy. Wish I could beat the concept into this guy I know...sheesh, some people just won't open their minds! Good job on the production by the way! I would put it through a cold-bubbler and measure before/after weight of the bubbler to see if there is any condensate.
sabriath 3 years ago
Nice cell.
brianempson 3 years ago