I am thinking about doing a project that involves casting several thin layers of resin side by side so that they adhere to each other. Will a 2nd resin pouring adhere to the side of a fully cured piece of resin? Or will it still "shrink away from the side" as the video says?
@Medowin If the surface of the first layer is exposed to air, it will not fully cure, even though it may feel cured. In that case, the two layers will bond permanently. If the surface of the first layer was sealed by the mold, it would be best to scuff the surface for a better bond. The second layer should not pull away from the first.
I'm living in thailand and making some clear cast soap dishes with embedments in using clear polyester casting resin and RTV silicone molds. But when the casts cure and pull away from the sides of the mold, they leave a very thick rippled surface that needs to be sanded away before polishing. This is quite a lengthy proccess which doesnt make it commercially viable as a business as I might need to make 500+ a month.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I've tried different catylist ratios, heat etc?
@MrJontidy This is a persistent issue with Silicone RTV (and most flexible rubber mold materials) and is the reason we recommend Platinum Silicone with Clear Lite Casting Resin. In the mean time, try warming the mold first and over catalyzing to get a better cure.
@kiloter101 Temperature is critical. The ideal working temperature for Easy Cast is at least 80 degrees F. This lowers the viscosity so that the bubbles release easily. Also, while thorough mixing is important, do not use a drill type mixer. It will create a froth that will not cure clear.
If you are using polyester resin (Clear Lite Casting Resin), then polyethylene, glass, or metal can be used for a mold without a mold release. Also, virtually any non-porous material can be use if a proper mold release is applied.
Degassing using a vaccum chamber or adding pressure using a pressure vessel really helps remove all those bubbles. Polyester resin is usually realllllly strong smelling so best to do this outside. You generally want to have a respirator, eyeglasses or goggles and a gloves when you work this stuff. It's pretty harsh. A good alternative to this product is clear polyurethanes.
@qcages Our Clear-Lite Casting Resin is very UV resistant. We have samples 20 years old that are still clear with no discoloration. The Easy Cast is not UV resistant and will probably yellow in the sun at some point. Indoors, there should be no color change over time. Easy Cast does not shrink as it cures because it is an epoxy.
One other issue arose with the resin casting I made. On one edge there the resin has a crackled appearance. This side released from the mold long before the other sides. Any suggestions as to why this happened and how to prevent it?
I experimented with this resin for the first time and I ended up with a lot of little bubbles. In the video it says not to worry about the bubbles created when stirring the catalyst and resin, that they will disappear. But the bubbles remained in my final product. How can I prevent this from happening?
@kayten11 A couple of things could be the cause. Thorough mixing is important, but the resin should not be whipped into a froth, nor should a mechanical mixer be used. So, it is possible the resin was actually over mixed. The other factor is the curing time. Clear Lite Casting Resin is designed to cure slowly enough to allow bubbles to escape. If it cures too quickly, bubbles are trapped. To slow down the cure time, try using a bit less catalyst.
@tapplastics It is difficult to answer this without seeing the part and the mold. Were you using a rigid or flexible mold? Flexible rubber molds often create that crackled appearance (it's called 'alligatoring' ). That is why we recommend Platinum Silicone for casting polyester. It produces much better castings. If you mold was rigid, then it might be a case of too much catalyst.
What type of sand paper and buffer would I use to sand and polish a casted piece? I made a cast of my tarantula, and have had major difficulty trying to get it as clear and polished as possible. :( I would hate to ruin another cast as some of my T's are very expensive.
@taboomoko If the surface is very rough, start with 150 grit paper and a random orbital sander. Work your way up to 400 grit. Then use a buffing wheel with buffing compound. Drill mounted buffing wheels are readily available at TAP Plastics or a local hardware store.
i would like to know how much resin to use if I'm making a 3 inches tall plant stands, and can i use any kind of product like diamond, flower,money etc
@razell30 You have not provided enough information to answer your question. To measure the volume of your mold, fill it with rice and then pour the rice into a measuring cup.
@razell30 YOU USE PLASTIC CONTAINER, COULD I MAKE MY BOX OUT OF WOOD USING CLEAR RESIN WHERE IT WOULDN'T LEAK AND WILL IT BE EASY TO COME OUT AND CAN I USING LIKE ROSES,ARE OTHER PRODUCT TO STICK IN IT LIKE THEY WAY YOU USE MONEY.
@bonghaven Clear Lite Casting Resin cures to a very hard material. It can be sanded, ground, drilled, and polished. If you are removing large amounts of material to re-shape a part, a grinder would be best.
I was wanting to know if I can make complex shapes out of the polyester resin... or if anyone has cast in electrical PCBs in there... how is this stuff for heat conductivity if these electrical bits heat up?
@brendanraymond Polyester resin can be used to make extremely intricate and complex shaped parts. Electrical parts can be embedded, but you would want to be careful to cast in a way that does not build up enough heat to damage the parts. For embedded parts that heat up, polyester resins can withstand heat up to about 150 degrees F without detrimental effect.
Using resin for the first time to make a 2x4 foot back for an indoor water feature (going to place sea glass in it). I was planning to make the mold out of plywood coated in waxing compound. However after watching the video I am a bit concerned that the wax will mess up the resin. How can I keep the resin from sticking to the mold without using wax? Thanks!
@brina3288 The wood does need to be sealed, use a surfacing curing resin (resin containing wax) to seal the wood, wait at least 7 days for a complete cure, then use a spray mold release.
after the resin has cured it can still give off a bad scent, especially when it interacts with moisture, it can be dissolved by water. Is there a way to prevent this, possibly by using a sealant or varnish etc. ?
@leojbx Casting resin continues to cure for 7 days. During that time it will have that characteristic polyester odor. If the resin is not surface curing, then use the Resin Craft Spray to seal it and then it will cure completely. Finally, make sure you are working at temperatures above 70 degrees F.
Im working on a table with a design of bottle caps. its 8ft by 2ft, and will be built on a plexiglass base. I wanted to use resin to embed the caps. I only need it to be thick enough to cover just a little over the caps. Determining the volume is hard because the space under the caps will not fill with resin. Does the ratio of resin/curing agent matter largely in the final product? or does it only affect the cure time? If it is important, could I please have help determining the proper ratio?
@Biker790 If you are referring to Clear Lite Casting Resin, the catalyst ratio is critical. The larger the mass of material, the smaller the amount of catalyst. Follow the guidelines in the video and you should be fine. Note: If there is no resin under the caps, they will float. You will need to hold them down somehow. This might be a better application for a product like Ultra Glo. Take a look at that video.
@W0LFfreak23 The wings need to be sealed before embedding. You will need to experiment to find out what works best. It is possible that a spray lacquer might work. Anything brushed on the wing would probably damage it. Once sealed, it can be embedded. It is possible that even after successfully embedding, the colors may fade over time.
Multiply the length times the width times the thickness in inches. That will give you your volume in cubic inches. There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon. Divide your volume by 231 and that will tell you how many gallons are needed. In your case, multiply 24" time 24" times 4" to get 2304 cubic inches. divide 2304 by 231 and you get 9.97, or almost 10 gallons.
i did the same of the video. exept that i think i did not mix the catalist that good that produce the change in color of the resin. Its been two hours and the resin still looks liquid and it did not dry at all. how long does it take to dry?
The curing time is dependent on the total volume, temperature, and the catalyst ratio. Two hours is a bit long to still be liquid, but it could still solidify. Make sure it is in a warm location and not a cold garage.
Thanks, I heard that poly is cancer producing? I use to make clear sculpture. Some I did so it looked like glass others I left frost covering. I made huge balls by buying huge Xmass balls about the size of softballs (only bigger). Because their are glass they could be broken after they harden leaving a clear ball with the same optical qualities.
Hello, great tutorial. Do you have any more information on embedding between two layers of clear resin? I know you showed one example of it comming out cloudy, is there a way of casting with no visible join? Thank you very much
@jengrainger The layers are only visible from a very small angle when viewed from the side. Viewed from the top or back, there are no visible signs of layers. Watch the video on 'How to make a resin table top". It is 4 layers thick and no lines are visible.
Can i do this with glossy photos instead of pennies? or with any images that i print on my inkjet printer? Will the paper get damaged? If so, Is there a specific type of paper i should use? or is there something i should apply to paper to protect it? thanks!
@PalefaceOnline You can seal the paper with Ultra Seal. It is a brush-on material that dries and protects the item from the resin. You can see it being used in our video on Ultra Glo and casting a table top.
iv brought some gloss resin from a company called seabase in the uk,it is used to do the final coat on surfboards it is a poly resin with a 1.5% catalist, aparently it conatains waxe!,iv done some today and its gone slightly milky and it looks like it has separted onthe top?will this polish ou?
Without seeing the board, it is hard to say for certain what is causing the milkiness. However, chances are that it is the wax in the final coat. If that is the case, the wax is all the way through the final coat, not just on the surface. Therefore, it cannot be buffed out. The final coat would need to be sanded off, then the unwaxed resin buffed to a gloss.
How large of a resin piece can you make? I'm trying to make a bathroom countertop (40" x 19") and embed bamboo in it. Would it be possible to make a 40" x 19" x 3/4 slab with this stuff?
Yes, it would be possible. First experiment with a smaller piece. You would need to cast it in layers to prevent the resin from over heating. Also, as mentioned in the video, the mold creates the surface of the part. That means casting the part upside down, popping it out of the mold and flipping it over.
If you are going to cast it in place so that the final pour of resin is the top, then you will need to grind, sand, and buff the final layer to produce the desired finish. By the way, cultured marble vanity tops are made using a very similar resin.
Very interesting. (: I've wanted to try encasing dried plants and insects in clear resin. If I used this layer method to do so, will the layers be visible in my final product?
i want to make my mp3 plastic clear the problem that i see is the shrinking problem because the tolerance that i have for the mp3 to be secure to the case
how much does this resin shrinks?
is there any resin that will not shrink as much to create a resin copy of an mp3 player?...note i have a zen mp3
Casting Resin can shrink up to about 6%. You would need to experiment to determine if this would be an issue in your project. The shrinkage is variable and is affected by such things as the shape of the mold, rate of cure, etc. So, experimenting will be the key to your success. Epoxy resins do not shrink, but they tend not to be a rigid as polyester (Casting Resin).
Now that I've done my math and I'm ordering some Clear-Lite, I came up with another idea. My original design (which I'll probably side with anyway) is to cast the apparatus. Alternately for ease of production and a protective outer glass layer, I may attempt to harden the resin within a glass shroud, think small beaker within large beaker with resin between. Would the resin adhere to the outer glass if cleaned properly or shrink away from it? Would filling the gap with more resin solve this?
The resin shrinks as it cures and it does not stick to glass. You could pour more resin in once the first batch cures, but you may have difficulty getting it to flow into the small gaps.
I'm building a small pressurized test chamber for supercritical fluid coolants ~8cm ID <300psi. I'll probably design it with a glass insert (similar to a beaker) and mating glass lid with gasket to protect the plastic from chemical damage. The glass will be encased in plastic for support. What plastic would you suggest for strength, low elasticity, and enough clarity for observation/photography? Would polyester resin shrink away from or tighten in toward the center insert like cooling metal?
Clear-Lite Casting Resin would provide the clarity you desire. It is designed for the hobby and do-it-yourself market. You would need to experiment to determine if it meets your engineering specifications. You can find technical data for our Casting resin on our website. Click on 'Product Information' then on 'Data Sheets', then click on 'Casting Resin
Remember that the bottom of the mold will produce the top of the part. That is why the clear is poured in first. All the coins can be in one layer. Just pour a layer of clear, let it gel, then add coins, and top off with the black. The resin surface that is exposed to air will cure to a rippled finish. That is why the smooth bottom of the mold is used to make the top of the casting.
Finally, if you let one layer fully cure and then pour the second, even if it is clear, you will see lines where the second pour partially encapsulates the first pour.
Small quantities of resin do not generate great amounts of heat. Always run a test first. Resin will stick to some plastic packaging materials. The mold does not need to be thick. The key is to pour small quantities and do not over do the catalyst. Any non-porous material can be used for a mold, though mold release might be required and the final appearance might not be the greatest.
Hi. I would like to know the process of casting acrylic sheets for an aquarium i would like to make . the chemicals ... where would i get them I live in Vanuatu (south pacific). The cost of transport to us is to high for cast sheet thats why i want to learn to do it my self.i have watched this video many times thank you for it.
The casting you see in the video is polyester, not acrylic. It is not suitable for making sheets for an aquarium. Unfortunately there is no way to make acrylic sheet on your own. The most economical method would be to order the pieces cut to your size requirements, and have them shipped to you to assemble. That way you do not need to order large sheets or have waste material.
Is this product suitable for embedding dead creatures like insects and reptiles? Will it inhibited putrefaction? I know that creatures caught in amber have been preserved for 100 million years. Does this have the properties of amber?
It depends on the creature. For example, if you encapsulate a mouse, the mouse contains moisture and bacteria, which is all that is needed for rotting or putrification. Some insects have hard shells, or contain no soft tissue, so they do not decompose the way soft tissue does. For best results, whatever is embedded should be completely dried out first. This can be accomplished by placing it in a desiccant (a powder that absorbs moisture).
Are you trying to make a mold or a shape (such as a sculpture) that you want to make a mold of? If you are making a mold, it must be completely non-porous, and if it is rigid, must have no undercuts. If you are making a part to duplicate, then it must be sealed prior to applying mold material. People have made master parts out of wood, clay, wax, Sculpy, stone, plastic, glass, and many other materials.
Are both Easy Cast and Clear Lite just "water-clear"? I take water-clear to mean not quite as clear as glass. If that's the case, then what's used to get clearer than that?
Water clear' means no color in the cured part. Glass is actually slightly green, which is easily seen if you look at the edge of a piece of glass. Clear-Lite Casting resin is virtually 'water clear', however it should be noted that the surface which is exposed to air may have a slight ripple effect that is less than 'glass smooth'. That can be sanded and buffed to a glass-like appearance. Easy Cast is more difficult to create a 'water clear' color.
Clear Lite is the clearest resin. While it is not specifically designed for exterior use, we have seen samples sitting in a sunny window with no color change after several years.
What would be the best epoxy or resin for casting something clear with embedments and how do they do in silicone molds. Polyester you said remains tacky in siclicone. Also what about Castin' Craft resin can you sand that and make it clear again if you have to. Also can you just buff of pollish to clear or do you have to sand first
Easy Cast Casting Epoxy will give you clear castings and does not have the tackiness issue.
The Clear Lite Casting Resin can be sanded, buffed, and polished to a beautiful shine. The amount of sanding needed depends on how rough the surface is.
Easy Cast Epoxy does not buff out as well, but that is usually not necessary if the mold is in good shape.
Sorry for a 3rd post, but I forgot to mention you can find the sword if you type in 'Soul Calibur 4 Sword' in Google Images. It has a blue glowing orb in the center with shards protruding out in all directions.
I am trying to create a 'crystal' sword for a costume using this resin. How brittle and strong is this material? If I make a fairly thick sword, it may break at the hilt due to it's own weight. If the blade is very thin to reduce weight, it may snap instead of bending if accidental pressure is applied to the tip. Any words of wisdom?
Your observations about the resin are accurate. I am not sure how to answer your question about thickness versus weight. You will probably need to experiment with different thicknesses and lengths to see what works. You don't need to use a sword mold for your tests. You can simply lay a trash bag in a box of sand and make an indentation the approximate shape you want and pour the resin right on the trash bag. When it cures, peel the trash bag off.
To increase the strength, would it be possible to put a shiny steel rod part way up the center of the blade, extending from the handle? Another option is to embed a glass rod, which would be practically invisible, but might add strength.
If you are casting with Clear Lite Casting Resin, yes, you can restore the polished surface. Use successively finer grades of sandpaper and finally buff to a shine. If you are using Easy Cast Epoxy, then it is a different story. Epoxy is softer, so it is more difficult to polish. You would use the same method, but the results would not be as good.
I'm trying to create a sphere casting that has embedments in the center of the sphere. would there be a trick to doing this? I know i would need a silicone or plastic sphere mold(2 part).
can i fill both halfs of a mold, let them dry to the tacky stage, and close the mold?
of would it be better to fill the closed 2 part mold half way, let it get tacky, blindly lay my embedments, and add the rest of the resin?
The best, and perhaps easiest way to cast a sphere is to use a glass Christmas tree ornament as the mold. If you get a clear ornament, then you can insert the embedment and watch what your are doing. When the polyester casting resin cures, lightly tap the ornament and it will break cleanly off the cast sphere.
If you use a two-part mold, you could pour the bottom half, let it gel, insert your embedment, then add the top half. In making a two-part rubber mold, make your seam 2/3 of the way up the sphere. That will allow you to more easily do the embedment.
Polyester tends to remain tacky in silicone molds. So prior to pouring, warm the mold in the microwave. Then once filled, place the mold in a warm location and allow it to cure overnight. That will increase the chances of a good surface cure.
Great videos, very informative. I have been thinking of making some art jewelry pieces with something similar to what you use here, but was hoping you could make a recommendation. What would you recommend for a project that required the clearest, water white resin? I think polyester would be preferred. Also, are there any clear resins that are somewhat flexible as well? Thanks in advance.
There is no question that polyester casting resin is water clear. For thin films, there are others that would look clear. One you might consider is Ultra Glo (also available at our website). Ultra Glo has good flexibility, but is clear only up to about 1/8" thickness. Many people also use our Easy Cast Casting Epoxy for jewelry. It has the advantage of surface curing and not shrinking during cure. However, it is a minimum of a 24 hour cure.
I was wondering what could I use to make my own moulds out of that would be suitable for casting resin? I want to be able to make my own moulds for my own design and I need it to be able to be quite durable.
Urethane RTV is the most durable mold material we carry. It is easy to work with and makes great molds. You will find free mold making videos at our website.
Thank you for the advice. Your videos are very thorough and easy to follow. What is your opinion about silicon rubbers? Would they be easier or harder to use for smaller molds? Also is there a material that I can shape with my hands to create my own molds with?
i wanna encapsulate little tiny polymer pieces of fruit into resin jewelry. its the first time i have used resin, i think its polyester resin that i have. I have all-the-way-round-the-finger ring moulds. Should i do it in layers? or just drop them in?
I'd like to encapsulate a large taurantula. Which would be better, polyester resin or epoxy? Also, i'd like to have it standing on a rock. How much material should there be on either side of the rock to prevent cracking?
First of all, since you probably only have one tarantula, we recommend you practice with something else first. There are no do-overs when you are casting.
Second, both polyester and epoxy will require a container with good release.
Polyester is super clear, has good bubble release for bubble-free castings, and stays clear for years. The challenge of polyester is that it shrinks as it cures and the surface exposed to air remains tacky unless treated as shown in the video.
Epoxy does not shrink and has no surface curing issues. However, it needs to be 75-80F for good bubble release. Epoxy is more expensive than polyester.
Unless the resin around the rock is paper thin, there is little chance of it cracking after it is cured. The bigger issue is cracking due to heat build up during the cure. Again, the video addresses this issue. We also have extensive directions on our web site. Good luck with the project!
Hi tap Im interested in making engine casing covers,them material must be 2mm thick on top of the cover.Can you shed some light as to what the best option would be.I'll be experimenting with polyester and epoxy based materials so im keen to know a little more before i get stuck in.Sheet wax to build up the casing seems ok but needs to be sculptured very well and im not sure that will be a good option as the casing is quite intricate so could you give me some advice/tips on this also?
How would you go about making a resin mold of a flat service and make the back hollow without carving it out?
For example, a mold of the front of a cell phone. You put your molding over the top of it...you take it out and you have the impression of the front of the cellphone but the back is solid. Do you HAVE to carve it out or is there a technique to it?
What you describe would require a two-part mold. The process would be very similar to what is shown in the two-part mold video. The difference is that instead of a Christmas tree, which is convex on both sides, you will be molding an item that is concave on one side. You would also need to create an opening to pour your casting medium into the mold. as well as an opening for air to escape. Here is one method:
Embed the phone part, face down in the clay (as shown on the video). Glue something like a stir stick to opposite edges of the part so that it is sticking vertically out of the mold box. Pour your mold material, remembering the mold release. When it is cured, the sticks can be pulled out, leaving two holes. Pour the resin in one and the air can escape out the other.
Wow I never actually thought of this -- this is really interesting! But here's the part where I'm really stuck because I only have the front of the cellphone mold at the moment but I'll use something else as an example to fit in to my problem.
Imagine there was a plastic cup taped to a wall -- the inside of the cup is hollow but you only have access to the outside of the cup. So you make the mold of the outside of the cup but you want the inside to be hollow. How exactly would you do this?
i'm building a bar top and want to place items in the way the video had shown. can this process be used in a larger scale? can you buy a gallon or more for pouring bar bar top and the cost of it.
Could one use a similar technique to create a cavity for use as a fastening point. That is if one were to stick a screw into the resin and leave part of it in air, would the resin bond to the screw or would the screw be able to be removed by turning, leave a screw shaped cavity for use in screwing 2 parts together...or would the shrinkage of the reson grip the screw tight so that removal would be impossible? What if one used an oversized screw case from low melt alloy that was then melted out..
Yes, that technique would work well. The key is to use a good mold release on the screw. If that is done, then removing the screw from the cured resin will leave a perfectly threaded hole. However, it is critical that you experiment with the process first. The size of the screw, the smoothness of the threads, etc are all variables which affect the ability of the screw to be removed from the cured resin.
Even with mold release there may be too much friction to remove a phillips head screw. You may need to use a hex head bolt in order to get enough torque to remove it.
quick question though. i'm trying to make a mold for a clear resin sword that i'm making for a costume. does the mold always need to be made out of plastic? or can i make the mold out of other materials, like clay or something else for the mold to work right in the shade of a sword?
ok where can i find your products in los angeles area? thanks alot! or what products to look for and where..hobby stores? spfx makeup stores in hollywood? thanks again.
ok thanks what should i use to make the mold? i can not ruin the original piece?? thanks again. must be detailed and hard...but not brake the orignal thin plastic.
I need to make coasters.. and I have easy cast at home. should I use it or will the heat and pressure from a tea cup destroy the finish?
odbhutto 8 months ago
@odbhutto A warm tea cup will leave an indentation that will disappear after the cup is removed. It should not harm the Easy Cast.
tapplastics 8 months ago
I am thinking about doing a project that involves casting several thin layers of resin side by side so that they adhere to each other. Will a 2nd resin pouring adhere to the side of a fully cured piece of resin? Or will it still "shrink away from the side" as the video says?
Medowin 9 months ago
@Medowin If the surface of the first layer is exposed to air, it will not fully cure, even though it may feel cured. In that case, the two layers will bond permanently. If the surface of the first layer was sealed by the mold, it would be best to scuff the surface for a better bond. The second layer should not pull away from the first.
tapplastics 8 months ago
I'm living in thailand and making some clear cast soap dishes with embedments in using clear polyester casting resin and RTV silicone molds. But when the casts cure and pull away from the sides of the mold, they leave a very thick rippled surface that needs to be sanded away before polishing. This is quite a lengthy proccess which doesnt make it commercially viable as a business as I might need to make 500+ a month.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I've tried different catylist ratios, heat etc?
MrJontidy 9 months ago
@MrJontidy This is a persistent issue with Silicone RTV (and most flexible rubber mold materials) and is the reason we recommend Platinum Silicone with Clear Lite Casting Resin. In the mean time, try warming the mold first and over catalyzing to get a better cure.
tapplastics 8 months ago
I have easy cast resin and am having trouble keeping air bubbles out, how do you do it?
kiloter101 11 months ago
@kiloter101 Temperature is critical. The ideal working temperature for Easy Cast is at least 80 degrees F. This lowers the viscosity so that the bubbles release easily. Also, while thorough mixing is important, do not use a drill type mixer. It will create a froth that will not cure clear.
tapplastics 11 months ago
is polypropelene the only plastic that can be used as a molde? Metal, wood, glass, other plastics are all out of the question?
zeusvalentine 1 year ago
If you are using polyester resin (Clear Lite Casting Resin), then polyethylene, glass, or metal can be used for a mold without a mold release. Also, virtually any non-porous material can be use if a proper mold release is applied.
tapplastics 1 year ago
@moonroc2 For very small castings, you can go up to 15-20 drops per ounce of resin.
tapplastics 1 year ago
Degassing using a vaccum chamber or adding pressure using a pressure vessel really helps remove all those bubbles. Polyester resin is usually realllllly strong smelling so best to do this outside. You generally want to have a respirator, eyeglasses or goggles and a gloves when you work this stuff. It's pretty harsh. A good alternative to this product is clear polyurethanes.
viper8red 1 year ago
How UV resistant is this clear polyester resin, and the easycrast clear epoxy?
Does the easycast clear epoxy shrink at all when it cures, like the polyester does?
It would be great if you could answer these questions :).
qcages 1 year ago
@qcages Our Clear-Lite Casting Resin is very UV resistant. We have samples 20 years old that are still clear with no discoloration. The Easy Cast is not UV resistant and will probably yellow in the sun at some point. Indoors, there should be no color change over time. Easy Cast does not shrink as it cures because it is an epoxy.
tapplastics 1 year ago
Hi again,
One other issue arose with the resin casting I made. On one edge there the resin has a crackled appearance. This side released from the mold long before the other sides. Any suggestions as to why this happened and how to prevent it?
Thanks!
kayten11 1 year ago
Hi,
I experimented with this resin for the first time and I ended up with a lot of little bubbles. In the video it says not to worry about the bubbles created when stirring the catalyst and resin, that they will disappear. But the bubbles remained in my final product. How can I prevent this from happening?
Thanks!
kayten11 1 year ago
@kayten11 A couple of things could be the cause. Thorough mixing is important, but the resin should not be whipped into a froth, nor should a mechanical mixer be used. So, it is possible the resin was actually over mixed. The other factor is the curing time. Clear Lite Casting Resin is designed to cure slowly enough to allow bubbles to escape. If it cures too quickly, bubbles are trapped. To slow down the cure time, try using a bit less catalyst.
tapplastics 1 year ago
@tapplastics It is difficult to answer this without seeing the part and the mold. Were you using a rigid or flexible mold? Flexible rubber molds often create that crackled appearance (it's called 'alligatoring' ). That is why we recommend Platinum Silicone for casting polyester. It produces much better castings. If you mold was rigid, then it might be a case of too much catalyst.
tapplastics 1 year ago
Will this work on insects, leaves and other organic materials?
bakedpeachpie 1 year ago
@bakedpeachpie Yes, but the material should be sealed first. It should also be bone dry.
tapplastics 1 year ago
What type of sand paper and buffer would I use to sand and polish a casted piece? I made a cast of my tarantula, and have had major difficulty trying to get it as clear and polished as possible. :( I would hate to ruin another cast as some of my T's are very expensive.
taboomoko 1 year ago
@taboomoko If the surface is very rough, start with 150 grit paper and a random orbital sander. Work your way up to 400 grit. Then use a buffing wheel with buffing compound. Drill mounted buffing wheels are readily available at TAP Plastics or a local hardware store.
tapplastics 1 year ago
@tapplastics -thank you very much :) Will try that.
taboomoko 1 year ago
Hi
i'm wondering if the cured plastic is hard enough to be used on a cnc mill
nemissis456 1 year ago
@nemissis456 Yes it is hard enough. Use care however, it can chip.
tapplastics 1 year ago
i would like to know how much resin to use if I'm making a 3 inches tall plant stands, and can i use any kind of product like diamond, flower,money etc
razell30 1 year ago
@razell30 You have not provided enough information to answer your question. To measure the volume of your mold, fill it with rice and then pour the rice into a measuring cup.
tapplastics 1 year ago
@razell30 YOU USE PLASTIC CONTAINER, COULD I MAKE MY BOX OUT OF WOOD USING CLEAR RESIN WHERE IT WOULDN'T LEAK AND WILL IT BE EASY TO COME OUT AND CAN I USING LIKE ROSES,ARE OTHER PRODUCT TO STICK IN IT LIKE THEY WAY YOU USE MONEY.
razell30 1 year ago
i placed an order for this product along with sum platinum silicone and im wondering if this resin can be sanded nicely for rough prototype stages
bonghaven 1 year ago
@bonghaven Clear Lite Casting Resin cures to a very hard material. It can be sanded, ground, drilled, and polished. If you are removing large amounts of material to re-shape a part, a grinder would be best.
tapplastics 1 year ago
Hi
someone please help
I was wanting to know if I can make complex shapes out of the polyester resin... or if anyone has cast in electrical PCBs in there... how is this stuff for heat conductivity if these electrical bits heat up?
brendanraymond 1 year ago
@brendanraymond Polyester resin can be used to make extremely intricate and complex shaped parts. Electrical parts can be embedded, but you would want to be careful to cast in a way that does not build up enough heat to damage the parts. For embedded parts that heat up, polyester resins can withstand heat up to about 150 degrees F without detrimental effect.
tapplastics 1 year ago
This is great! Not too talky, no silly music, extremely demonstrative. It makes casting look easy and I'm inspired to do it myself!
blackadder999 1 year ago
@kciNJNadon The use of a mold release is suggested
tapplastics 1 year ago
Using resin for the first time to make a 2x4 foot back for an indoor water feature (going to place sea glass in it). I was planning to make the mold out of plywood coated in waxing compound. However after watching the video I am a bit concerned that the wax will mess up the resin. How can I keep the resin from sticking to the mold without using wax? Thanks!
brina3288 1 year ago
@brina3288 The wood does need to be sealed, use a surfacing curing resin (resin containing wax) to seal the wood, wait at least 7 days for a complete cure, then use a spray mold release.
tapplastics 1 year ago
after the resin has cured it can still give off a bad scent, especially when it interacts with moisture, it can be dissolved by water. Is there a way to prevent this, possibly by using a sealant or varnish etc. ?
leojbx 1 year ago
@leojbx Casting resin continues to cure for 7 days. During that time it will have that characteristic polyester odor. If the resin is not surface curing, then use the Resin Craft Spray to seal it and then it will cure completely. Finally, make sure you are working at temperatures above 70 degrees F.
tapplastics 1 year ago
can you put bugs in there?
emobootch 1 year ago
I've always wondered, why is it that the larger the mass the smaller amount of catalyst? I never understood why?
REALTALKFEELME 1 year ago
Im working on a table with a design of bottle caps. its 8ft by 2ft, and will be built on a plexiglass base. I wanted to use resin to embed the caps. I only need it to be thick enough to cover just a little over the caps. Determining the volume is hard because the space under the caps will not fill with resin. Does the ratio of resin/curing agent matter largely in the final product? or does it only affect the cure time? If it is important, could I please have help determining the proper ratio?
Biker790 1 year ago
@Biker790 If you are referring to Clear Lite Casting Resin, the catalyst ratio is critical. The larger the mass of material, the smaller the amount of catalyst. Follow the guidelines in the video and you should be fine. Note: If there is no resin under the caps, they will float. You will need to hold them down somehow. This might be a better application for a product like Ultra Glo. Take a look at that video.
tapplastics 1 year ago
Is it possible to cast resin over Butterfly wings...scale wing in general?
I Have a beoutiful coloection of moths and butterflys ive FOUND over the corse of years and i would like to give a more permanant feel to them.
being capable of holding rather than veiw from screen.
theres realy not much info in this subject and setanly no tuttorials on how to.
so its questionable if it can be done or not?
Thanks in advance 5/5
W0LFfreak23 2 years ago
@W0LFfreak23 The wings need to be sealed before embedding. You will need to experiment to find out what works best. It is possible that a spray lacquer might work. Anything brushed on the wing would probably damage it. Once sealed, it can be embedded. It is possible that even after successfully embedding, the colors may fade over time.
tapplastics 1 year ago
@tapplastics ok thank you!
ill test on some more common moth wings before using on my collection wings.
W0LFfreak23 1 year ago
i would like to know how i determine the amount to buy. need approx 2'x2'x4" thanks.
lizidean 2 years ago
Multiply the length times the width times the thickness in inches. That will give you your volume in cubic inches. There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon. Divide your volume by 231 and that will tell you how many gallons are needed. In your case, multiply 24" time 24" times 4" to get 2304 cubic inches. divide 2304 by 231 and you get 9.97, or almost 10 gallons.
tapplastics 2 years ago
i did the same of the video. exept that i think i did not mix the catalist that good that produce the change in color of the resin. Its been two hours and the resin still looks liquid and it did not dry at all. how long does it take to dry?
carmendoris1986 2 years ago
The curing time is dependent on the total volume, temperature, and the catalyst ratio. Two hours is a bit long to still be liquid, but it could still solidify. Make sure it is in a warm location and not a cold garage.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Thanks, I heard that poly is cancer producing? I use to make clear sculpture. Some I did so it looked like glass others I left frost covering. I made huge balls by buying huge Xmass balls about the size of softballs (only bigger). Because their are glass they could be broken after they harden leaving a clear ball with the same optical qualities.
Dallouez 2 years ago
@Dallouez Christmas tree ornaments make great molds as you suggest. If resin is used with good ventilation, it poses no harm to the user.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Hello, great tutorial. Do you have any more information on embedding between two layers of clear resin? I know you showed one example of it comming out cloudy, is there a way of casting with no visible join? Thank you very much
jengrainger 2 years ago
@jengrainger The layers are only visible from a very small angle when viewed from the side. Viewed from the top or back, there are no visible signs of layers. Watch the video on 'How to make a resin table top". It is 4 layers thick and no lines are visible.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Thank you very much! Very helpful
jengrainger 2 years ago
could you make anythings eles with that product say like maybe a small stand.
niquil454 2 years ago
@niquil454 Virtually any shape can be made if a mold can be created for it.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Can i do this with glossy photos instead of pennies? or with any images that i print on my inkjet printer? Will the paper get damaged? If so, Is there a specific type of paper i should use? or is there something i should apply to paper to protect it? thanks!
PalefaceOnline 2 years ago
@PalefaceOnline You can seal the paper with Ultra Seal. It is a brush-on material that dries and protects the item from the resin. You can see it being used in our video on Ultra Glo and casting a table top.
tapplastics 2 years ago
iv brought some gloss resin from a company called seabase in the uk,it is used to do the final coat on surfboards it is a poly resin with a 1.5% catalist, aparently it conatains waxe!,iv done some today and its gone slightly milky and it looks like it has separted onthe top?will this polish ou?
manythanks
scott
iwannabentley 2 years ago
Without seeing the board, it is hard to say for certain what is causing the milkiness. However, chances are that it is the wax in the final coat. If that is the case, the wax is all the way through the final coat, not just on the surface. Therefore, it cannot be buffed out. The final coat would need to be sanded off, then the unwaxed resin buffed to a gloss.
tapplastics 2 years ago
excellent vid! thanks!
mochaguy22 2 years ago
How large of a resin piece can you make? I'm trying to make a bathroom countertop (40" x 19") and embed bamboo in it. Would it be possible to make a 40" x 19" x 3/4 slab with this stuff?
00Mandingo00 2 years ago
Yes, it would be possible. First experiment with a smaller piece. You would need to cast it in layers to prevent the resin from over heating. Also, as mentioned in the video, the mold creates the surface of the part. That means casting the part upside down, popping it out of the mold and flipping it over.
tapplastics 2 years ago
If you are going to cast it in place so that the final pour of resin is the top, then you will need to grind, sand, and buff the final layer to produce the desired finish. By the way, cultured marble vanity tops are made using a very similar resin.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Very interesting. (: I've wanted to try encasing dried plants and insects in clear resin. If I used this layer method to do so, will the layers be visible in my final product?
Zombiefae 2 years ago
The layers would only be visible if the piece was looked at from the edge at exactly the right angle. Otherwise they are invisible.
tapplastics 2 years ago
i want to make my mp3 plastic clear the problem that i see is the shrinking problem because the tolerance that i have for the mp3 to be secure to the case
how much does this resin shrinks?
is there any resin that will not shrink as much to create a resin copy of an mp3 player?...note i have a zen mp3
thank you
pablojovany 2 years ago
Casting Resin can shrink up to about 6%. You would need to experiment to determine if this would be an issue in your project. The shrinkage is variable and is affected by such things as the shape of the mold, rate of cure, etc. So, experimenting will be the key to your success. Epoxy resins do not shrink, but they tend not to be a rigid as polyester (Casting Resin).
tapplastics 2 years ago
Now that I've done my math and I'm ordering some Clear-Lite, I came up with another idea. My original design (which I'll probably side with anyway) is to cast the apparatus. Alternately for ease of production and a protective outer glass layer, I may attempt to harden the resin within a glass shroud, think small beaker within large beaker with resin between. Would the resin adhere to the outer glass if cleaned properly or shrink away from it? Would filling the gap with more resin solve this?
BigBananaMan 2 years ago
The resin shrinks as it cures and it does not stick to glass. You could pour more resin in once the first batch cures, but you may have difficulty getting it to flow into the small gaps.
tapplastics 2 years ago
I'll cast it then, especially considering I already have it drawn up in CAD like that. You've been very helpful.
BigBananaMan 2 years ago
I'm building a small pressurized test chamber for supercritical fluid coolants ~8cm ID <300psi. I'll probably design it with a glass insert (similar to a beaker) and mating glass lid with gasket to protect the plastic from chemical damage. The glass will be encased in plastic for support. What plastic would you suggest for strength, low elasticity, and enough clarity for observation/photography? Would polyester resin shrink away from or tighten in toward the center insert like cooling metal?
BigBananaMan 2 years ago
Clear-Lite Casting Resin would provide the clarity you desire. It is designed for the hobby and do-it-yourself market. You would need to experiment to determine if it meets your engineering specifications. You can find technical data for our Casting resin on our website. Click on 'Product Information' then on 'Data Sheets', then click on 'Casting Resin
tapplastics 2 years ago
Can you leave the black part cure then place the coins on it & pour the clear resin over that?
So the coins are all centred and inline instead of staggered
TopGear6666 2 years ago
Remember that the bottom of the mold will produce the top of the part. That is why the clear is poured in first. All the coins can be in one layer. Just pour a layer of clear, let it gel, then add coins, and top off with the black. The resin surface that is exposed to air will cure to a rippled finish. That is why the smooth bottom of the mold is used to make the top of the casting.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Finally, if you let one layer fully cure and then pour the second, even if it is clear, you will see lines where the second pour partially encapsulates the first pour.
tapplastics 2 years ago
what is the strongest kind you can make ?
arson789 2 years ago
Strongest kind of what?
tapplastics 2 years ago
I have NEVER done this before!
I am planning on using some molds from removing items from their plastic shrink wrap.
But now I see that resin and the catalyst
heat and cook whatever is in it ha?
So plastic has to be very thick to use for a form?
what about clay?
like poly clay?FIMO or sculpey for mold?
lindapittsburgh 2 years ago
Small quantities of resin do not generate great amounts of heat. Always run a test first. Resin will stick to some plastic packaging materials. The mold does not need to be thick. The key is to pour small quantities and do not over do the catalyst. Any non-porous material can be used for a mold, though mold release might be required and the final appearance might not be the greatest.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Hi. I would like to know the process of casting acrylic sheets for an aquarium i would like to make . the chemicals ... where would i get them I live in Vanuatu (south pacific). The cost of transport to us is to high for cast sheet thats why i want to learn to do it my self.i have watched this video many times thank you for it.
madipea 2 years ago
The casting you see in the video is polyester, not acrylic. It is not suitable for making sheets for an aquarium. Unfortunately there is no way to make acrylic sheet on your own. The most economical method would be to order the pieces cut to your size requirements, and have them shipped to you to assemble. That way you do not need to order large sheets or have waste material.
tapplastics 2 years ago
can you use resin over clays?
tbjw1 2 years ago
I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean you want to coat the clay with resin, or use the clay as a mold?
tapplastics 2 years ago
coat clay with resin
tbjw1 2 years ago
Is this product suitable for embedding dead creatures like insects and reptiles? Will it inhibited putrefaction? I know that creatures caught in amber have been preserved for 100 million years. Does this have the properties of amber?
payntingdotcom 2 years ago
It depends on the creature. For example, if you encapsulate a mouse, the mouse contains moisture and bacteria, which is all that is needed for rotting or putrification. Some insects have hard shells, or contain no soft tissue, so they do not decompose the way soft tissue does. For best results, whatever is embedded should be completely dried out first. This can be accomplished by placing it in a desiccant (a powder that absorbs moisture).
tapplastics 2 years ago
Once completely dry, there should be no changes after encapsulation.
tapplastics 2 years ago
If I was to make my own mold shape, what would I need to craft that mold out of? I was hoping hardened paper mache or paper clay.
CrescentBunny 2 years ago
Are you trying to make a mold or a shape (such as a sculpture) that you want to make a mold of? If you are making a mold, it must be completely non-porous, and if it is rigid, must have no undercuts. If you are making a part to duplicate, then it must be sealed prior to applying mold material. People have made master parts out of wood, clay, wax, Sculpy, stone, plastic, glass, and many other materials.
tapplastics 2 years ago
I'm quite glad to see sculpy on that list! And yes you are correct. :) Thank you for the response! I'm already on my way to trying this out.
CrescentBunny 2 years ago
Are both Easy Cast and Clear Lite just "water-clear"? I take water-clear to mean not quite as clear as glass. If that's the case, then what's used to get clearer than that?
frank99z 2 years ago
Water clear' means no color in the cured part. Glass is actually slightly green, which is easily seen if you look at the edge of a piece of glass. Clear-Lite Casting resin is virtually 'water clear', however it should be noted that the surface which is exposed to air may have a slight ripple effect that is less than 'glass smooth'. That can be sanded and buffed to a glass-like appearance. Easy Cast is more difficult to create a 'water clear' color.
tapplastics 2 years ago
So Clear Lite is the clearest?
Perhaps I should have said crystal, then, instead of glass.
Any discoloration with age, or maybe u/v?
frank99z 2 years ago
Clear Lite is the clearest resin. While it is not specifically designed for exterior use, we have seen samples sitting in a sunny window with no color change after several years.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Does anybody knows where to get these when you live in The nehterlands??
I really want to do it, but can't them in stores
lauraaap 2 years ago
TAP Plastics can ship to the Netherlands.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Thank you so much! I'll buy from you next month ^__^
Im so happy now =D
lauraaap 2 years ago
THANKS ALOT!!
brieea 2 years ago
What would be the best epoxy or resin for casting something clear with embedments and how do they do in silicone molds. Polyester you said remains tacky in siclicone. Also what about Castin' Craft resin can you sand that and make it clear again if you have to. Also can you just buff of pollish to clear or do you have to sand first
iknitsteel2990 2 years ago
Easy Cast Casting Epoxy will give you clear castings and does not have the tackiness issue.
The Clear Lite Casting Resin can be sanded, buffed, and polished to a beautiful shine. The amount of sanding needed depends on how rough the surface is.
Easy Cast Epoxy does not buff out as well, but that is usually not necessary if the mold is in good shape.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Sorry for a 3rd post, but I forgot to mention you can find the sword if you type in 'Soul Calibur 4 Sword' in Google Images. It has a blue glowing orb in the center with shards protruding out in all directions.
esaghir 2 years ago
I am trying to create a 'crystal' sword for a costume using this resin. How brittle and strong is this material? If I make a fairly thick sword, it may break at the hilt due to it's own weight. If the blade is very thin to reduce weight, it may snap instead of bending if accidental pressure is applied to the tip. Any words of wisdom?
esaghir 2 years ago
Your observations about the resin are accurate. I am not sure how to answer your question about thickness versus weight. You will probably need to experiment with different thicknesses and lengths to see what works. You don't need to use a sword mold for your tests. You can simply lay a trash bag in a box of sand and make an indentation the approximate shape you want and pour the resin right on the trash bag. When it cures, peel the trash bag off.
tapplastics 2 years ago
To increase the strength, would it be possible to put a shiny steel rod part way up the center of the blade, extending from the handle? Another option is to embed a glass rod, which would be practically invisible, but might add strength.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Great Video, very well done.
esaghir 2 years ago
Regarding encapsulation.....If you have to sand away part of a pour, does the resin
polish out ? Can you return to the clear
state of the cured product with progressive sanding ?
MKULTRA63 2 years ago
If you are casting with Clear Lite Casting Resin, yes, you can restore the polished surface. Use successively finer grades of sandpaper and finally buff to a shine. If you are using Easy Cast Epoxy, then it is a different story. Epoxy is softer, so it is more difficult to polish. You would use the same method, but the results would not be as good.
tapplastics 2 years ago
I'm trying to create a sphere casting that has embedments in the center of the sphere. would there be a trick to doing this? I know i would need a silicone or plastic sphere mold(2 part).
can i fill both halfs of a mold, let them dry to the tacky stage, and close the mold?
of would it be better to fill the closed 2 part mold half way, let it get tacky, blindly lay my embedments, and add the rest of the resin?
AdrianCloud5513 2 years ago
The best, and perhaps easiest way to cast a sphere is to use a glass Christmas tree ornament as the mold. If you get a clear ornament, then you can insert the embedment and watch what your are doing. When the polyester casting resin cures, lightly tap the ornament and it will break cleanly off the cast sphere.
tapplastics 2 years ago
If you use a two-part mold, you could pour the bottom half, let it gel, insert your embedment, then add the top half. In making a two-part rubber mold, make your seam 2/3 of the way up the sphere. That will allow you to more easily do the embedment.
Polyester tends to remain tacky in silicone molds. So prior to pouring, warm the mold in the microwave. Then once filled, place the mold in a warm location and allow it to cure overnight. That will increase the chances of a good surface cure.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Great videos, very informative. I have been thinking of making some art jewelry pieces with something similar to what you use here, but was hoping you could make a recommendation. What would you recommend for a project that required the clearest, water white resin? I think polyester would be preferred. Also, are there any clear resins that are somewhat flexible as well? Thanks in advance.
hailtheface 3 years ago
There is no question that polyester casting resin is water clear. For thin films, there are others that would look clear. One you might consider is Ultra Glo (also available at our website). Ultra Glo has good flexibility, but is clear only up to about 1/8" thickness. Many people also use our Easy Cast Casting Epoxy for jewelry. It has the advantage of surface curing and not shrinking during cure. However, it is a minimum of a 24 hour cure.
tapplastics 2 years ago
I was wondering what could I use to make my own moulds out of that would be suitable for casting resin? I want to be able to make my own moulds for my own design and I need it to be able to be quite durable.
xneedwantlovexx 3 years ago
Urethane RTV is the most durable mold material we carry. It is easy to work with and makes great molds. You will find free mold making videos at our website.
tapplastics 2 years ago
Thank you for the advice. Your videos are very thorough and easy to follow. What is your opinion about silicon rubbers? Would they be easier or harder to use for smaller molds? Also is there a material that I can shape with my hands to create my own molds with?
xneedwantlovexx 2 years ago
Really great tutorial! thanks!!!!
beader01 3 years ago
i wanna encapsulate little tiny polymer pieces of fruit into resin jewelry. its the first time i have used resin, i think its polyester resin that i have. I have all-the-way-round-the-finger ring moulds. Should i do it in layers? or just drop them in?
SpreadingAwareness 3 years ago
I'd like to encapsulate a large taurantula. Which would be better, polyester resin or epoxy? Also, i'd like to have it standing on a rock. How much material should there be on either side of the rock to prevent cracking?
Thanks!
parkfly27 3 years ago
First of all, since you probably only have one tarantula, we recommend you practice with something else first. There are no do-overs when you are casting.
Second, both polyester and epoxy will require a container with good release.
Polyester is super clear, has good bubble release for bubble-free castings, and stays clear for years. The challenge of polyester is that it shrinks as it cures and the surface exposed to air remains tacky unless treated as shown in the video.
tapplastics 3 years ago
Epoxy does not shrink and has no surface curing issues. However, it needs to be 75-80F for good bubble release. Epoxy is more expensive than polyester.
Unless the resin around the rock is paper thin, there is little chance of it cracking after it is cured. The bigger issue is cracking due to heat build up during the cure. Again, the video addresses this issue. We also have extensive directions on our web site. Good luck with the project!
tapplastics 3 years ago
Hi tap Im interested in making engine casing covers,them material must be 2mm thick on top of the cover.Can you shed some light as to what the best option would be.I'll be experimenting with polyester and epoxy based materials so im keen to know a little more before i get stuck in.Sheet wax to build up the casing seems ok but needs to be sculptured very well and im not sure that will be a good option as the casing is quite intricate so could you give me some advice/tips on this also?
Thanks
slappopbass 3 years ago
I'm not sure I understand the question. If these covers are for a working engine, nothing we carry would withstand those high temperatures.
If this is a model, then either polyester or epoxy would work.
You mention sheet wax build up. It is not clear what you are referring to, so I don't know how to comment on that.
tapplastics 3 years ago
How would you go about making a resin mold of a flat service and make the back hollow without carving it out?
For example, a mold of the front of a cell phone. You put your molding over the top of it...you take it out and you have the impression of the front of the cellphone but the back is solid. Do you HAVE to carve it out or is there a technique to it?
AlmostJesus 3 years ago
What you describe would require a two-part mold. The process would be very similar to what is shown in the two-part mold video. The difference is that instead of a Christmas tree, which is convex on both sides, you will be molding an item that is concave on one side. You would also need to create an opening to pour your casting medium into the mold. as well as an opening for air to escape. Here is one method:
tapplastics 3 years ago
Embed the phone part, face down in the clay (as shown on the video). Glue something like a stir stick to opposite edges of the part so that it is sticking vertically out of the mold box. Pour your mold material, remembering the mold release. When it is cured, the sticks can be pulled out, leaving two holes. Pour the resin in one and the air can escape out the other.
tapplastics 3 years ago
Wow I never actually thought of this -- this is really interesting! But here's the part where I'm really stuck because I only have the front of the cellphone mold at the moment but I'll use something else as an example to fit in to my problem.
Imagine there was a plastic cup taped to a wall -- the inside of the cup is hollow but you only have access to the outside of the cup. So you make the mold of the outside of the cup but you want the inside to be hollow. How exactly would you do this?
AlmostJesus 3 years ago
Would it be roughly the same idea as the answer you posted? You can see why I'm a little confused here.
AlmostJesus 3 years ago
wow!convincing!
ina07 3 years ago
i'm building a bar top and want to place items in the way the video had shown. can this process be used in a larger scale? can you buy a gallon or more for pouring bar bar top and the cost of it.
my0442 3 years ago
Could one use a similar technique to create a cavity for use as a fastening point. That is if one were to stick a screw into the resin and leave part of it in air, would the resin bond to the screw or would the screw be able to be removed by turning, leave a screw shaped cavity for use in screwing 2 parts together...or would the shrinkage of the reson grip the screw tight so that removal would be impossible? What if one used an oversized screw case from low melt alloy that was then melted out..
jiidee 3 years ago
Yes, that technique would work well. The key is to use a good mold release on the screw. If that is done, then removing the screw from the cured resin will leave a perfectly threaded hole. However, it is critical that you experiment with the process first. The size of the screw, the smoothness of the threads, etc are all variables which affect the ability of the screw to be removed from the cured resin.
tapplastics 3 years ago
Even with mold release there may be too much friction to remove a phillips head screw. You may need to use a hex head bolt in order to get enough torque to remove it.
tapplastics 3 years ago
Is this flexible like the sole of a sneaker that is what i would like to do
bushwickbillz 3 years ago
no i think once it dries completely its as hard as a rock
happyemofreak 3 years ago
thanks for the tutorial.
quick question though. i'm trying to make a mold for a clear resin sword that i'm making for a costume. does the mold always need to be made out of plastic? or can i make the mold out of other materials, like clay or something else for the mold to work right in the shade of a sword?
hinokara 3 years ago
how to make tail litghts? red/clear ones?
fairno2 3 years ago
Make a mold of the originals then cast in Clear Lite Casting Resin with a little red dye.
tapplastics 3 years ago
ok where can i find your products in los angeles area? thanks alot! or what products to look for and where..hobby stores? spfx makeup stores in hollywood? thanks again.
fairno2 3 years ago
TAP Clear-Lite Casting Resin is available at our website. Under Mold Making Supplies.
tapplastics 3 years ago
do the resins yellow or fade with uva exposure?
fairno2 3 years ago
Yes, UV does affect resins. However, the addition of pigment helps protect the resin. Also, Surfboard Resin is UV resistant.
tapplastics 3 years ago
ok thanks what should i use to make the mold? i can not ruin the original piece?? thanks again. must be detailed and hard...but not brake the orignal thin plastic.
fairno2 3 years ago
This is awesome thanks alot.
arnzoncam 3 years ago
I also learned a lot...: ) Thanks
moonshinealice 4 years ago
excellent! thank you so much
paulconrad 4 years ago
this is the most well informed diy video i've seen yet. thank you very much!
spencersgirlwonder 4 years ago 2
I like how you have visuals of what NOT to do. That's very helpful.
evillttlimp 4 years ago 2
great video
notengoidea 4 years ago
Excellent video with clear instructions, i have learnt a lot.
jordancorey 4 years ago