Added: 2 years ago
From: volvot5se
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  • greatest achievement of your art must be your protegee . studying researching historical restoration and renovation nomenclature and acedemy must be in her homework .even in usa it is a very recently structed hyerarchy .she can easily specialized with a simple degree and licence sealed in plasterers guild and similar references of authenticity newyork base restoration `sophists loves such impression

  • @artregeous Many Thanks Regards

  • Nice work. Cool vid. Thx.

  • @dewexdewex Many Thanks for your comment regards Colin

  • BEAUTIFUL WORK! I'm a drywall finisher & painter. When I'm called for jobs that require cornice restoration, I refuse because I dont know how. I wont do shoddy work. I have basic plastering skills but I should've learned cornice running and restoration long ago. After watching your video I am confident that I can do it well with time and practice. QUESTION- How do you make a template of the cornice if it is attached to the wall? I have no loose pieces to work with. Thanks, Scott

  • @Ninagirl1966 I've done basic quadrant profile repair and I took a mould of about 6 inches length off an existing portion with quick set casting plaster applied thickly so I didn't have to back it; just used some scrim to give it body. I then ran this through a table saw carefully at 90 degrees to the run direction to get the exact profile on the cut edge. This I used to trace onto a sheet of plywood which I cut and made into the horse. Hope that helps.

  • what music is that

    

  • @eav0567 Hi and thanks for viewing i cant remember the title of the music but i will try to find it and let you know Regards Colin

  • Love the video, it was very informative and a joy to watch.

  • @Rabidavid Many Thanks for your comment

    Regards

    Colin

  • very clever

  • @MultiBob2002 Many Thanks for your comments

    Regards

    Colin

  • Now that is impressive, I am thinking of trying this in the only room that has lost its cornice in my victorian house, so I was so pleased to find this, Thank you for your efforts to put this on.

  • @yobbsmissesalge Many thanks for your interest setting out your running rules is very important so it is worth taking time over

    Regards

  • Did the work this morning - amazed in the end at the result - looks great and hard to detect the joins. However, my sample of plaster of Paris used (without additives) did "go off" very fast leaving very little time to work or add extra layers with each mix. Could just have been some "bad" plaster - havn't used before so can't judge - may have been down to the music to? - I was listening to Grant Green jazz guitar - need to be relaxed for this- worked Ok but didnt come close to that piano!

  • @LectricEel Casting plaster will only give you 20 mins at the most you have not got a bad batch regards

  • Great, thanks, I understand .. its the sweling that can be a problem with moulding plaster alone,.... the reason for the Q was that I can buy Plaster of Paris locally in small quantities but could only buy lime in 25 kg sacks but really only needed a few 100 g of it for this job - thanks for advice on suction - will wet the backing to prevent , Much gratitude,

    Dave

  • @LectricEel Glad to be of assistance regards

  • Fantastic video - educational and captures the sublime art of this ancient skill rarely seen in the mainly macho construction world.

    I have small gap about 30cm long in the vertical part and have filled the gap with backing plaster and about 1cm thickness is required to face off. Is lime putty essential or could I just use plaster of Paris? Does it have a function – e.g. aiding the skimming off, or providing extended drying time (not an issue here for this small job)? Many thanks ! Dave

  • @LectricEel Hi and thanks for your comment Lime putty is only required if you are running long lengths as it stops the casting plaster expanding to much if you used casting plaster on its own on long lengths it would expand causing the moulding to part company from the background in your case on small areas you can use it neat without a backing coat but spray the area well with plenty of water

  • Thanks for reply ,is washed sand the same as plastering sand? also how do you mix the plaster and lime putty together ,water first,whats the ratio thanks?

  • @benny5825 Yes plastering sand is fine washed.When gauging lime putty and plaster you have to mix it on the spot board the ring out your putty add your water then sprinkle in your plaster no less than 50% plaster then box it all together make sure you mix enough to build up the first run dont forget it starts to set quite quickly and keep everything as clean as possible

    Regards

  • What mix would you use for external moldings,thanks

  • @benny5825 Hi and thanks for watching.The answer to your question regarding external run mouldings is a gauge of 2 to 1 washed sharp sand and cement

    Regards

    Colin

  • hi, this is great to watch I havnt seen this done since I was an apprentice plasterer nearly 30 years ago at college,although several years ago while working for a builder I had a piece about 10 foot long to replace on a job in a pub and rather than get a specialist in I said i can do that,so the joiner knocked me up a horse, i think we used to call it, lined it with zinc ran it on the bench and hey presto everyone thought i was a genius lol probably not up to your standard but looked fine

  • Hi. I have always loved the art in cornice making. It is so rewarding. How long does ir take to do a room, say 15' x 15' ? How do you make the metal mould/runner? I find it fascinating, Thanks, Mervyn

  • @MrArtisticsound Hi and thanks for your interest The main area you mention depends on the size of cornice and how many mitres there are the linear lengths to run properly would take approx three days but again depends on if the moulding contains enrichment how many mitres you can do again depends on size and detail possibly two to three in a day.The running mould is cut and filed to shape from a good gauge zinc and is backed with marine ply five mm smaller in size and well strengthend Regards

  • Thanks a lot for that info. I thought it was zinc from some work I had done 40 years ago. If you have any more postings to you tube, please let me know, I luv 'em.

    Ally P

  • @allypullin Thanks I have a video on how to make an Arch on a bench you may find interesting at my channel volvot5se

    Regards

    Colin

  • Excellent. I admire the art imensly but what kind of plaster is being used, what is the mould/template made from, zinc?

    Thanks for posting I look forward to more.

    I am trying to repair my victorian cornice due to cracking (building movement or subsidence) but the damage is mainly large cracks running across the cornice diagonally.

    Alastair

  • @allypullin Hi and thanks for your comment.The plaster is casting plaster mixed 50% Lime putty and 50%+ casting plaster run with a zinc profile backed with 18mm ply tools you will need for your repairs are a set of joint rules and a variety of small tools unless you are replacing long runs of cornice you would not need a running mould the tools mentioned should suffice

    Regards

  • where can I learn this I always wanted to be a plasterer have managed to learn the basic type render and skimming but have always wanted2 be a craftsman but never had the opportunity to be taught do you know where I could learn please.

  • @formidablepower Hi solid running is dying out it is mainly fibrous work these days if you are lucky you may find a few people who still use this method There is a trainee college I think they are based in Kent called Gold Trowel I know they teach fibrous work that involves running down solid on a bench give them a try

    Regards

    Colin

  • @volvot5se thank you I'll take a look.Thanks again Colin,fingers crossed it all works out.

  • silly question. but what do use to cut the zinc. do you cut it riough with say a snips then file????

  • @freddyflaps Hello thanks for your interest yes exactly as you have said or you can be posh and get it laser cut on heavier gauge metal which is great if you have a few moulds to run

    Regards

    Colin

  • to bad you cant just splatter coat to broadcast the plaster to the cornice using a standard plaster hopper gun

  • @datzfast Yeah that cant be done with Lime putty and plaster the set is to quick but you can use that method on external mouldings using sand and cement

    Regards

    Sarah

  • @volvo t5 zi might try it in a bench run scenario, for fun if i come up with any thing that works well i will post a youtube video

  • Nice video, why do you cut the internal miters at 45 degrees and fill in, is it not possible to run to the end and make up the other wall to it and then you would surely only have one cornice to fill in, just an observation, also if you are doing external corners do you finish a corner on both sides in one go as they meet or do you let one dry and make the other to it when dry, a video on external corners would be really informative, thanks.

  • @dontthinksosomehow Because the mould profile has to sit in the middle of the slipper this does not allow the mould to run into the corner also the mitre is best carved both ways at the same time its not like scribing in skirtings or the like where you cut back accross the mitre.when it comes to external mitres you set your rules up to have a rebate and a brace on the rule to run the mould bothways at once regards

  • @TheNathandan Just spinkle lime into the water dont mix but make sure the lime is covered by water then next day tip excess water off and putty is ready to use

  • @volvot5se we left our lime over night to soak, the next morning we mixed 50% lime to 50% plaster. we mixed it with a power drill for about 3 minuets but it set rock hard in the bucket before we had chance to get it out the bucket? too much plaster???? thankyou for all your help so far. regards.

  • thanks for the information, before soaking the lime overnight do u mix it up to a workable consisntancy first or just cover it in water? thankyou again.

  • @TheNathandan Hi you need Hydrated lime and fine casting plaster the lime needs to soak overnight then you gauge enough Lime and plaster together to roughly build out the shape on the first run then gauge your second mix to complete the moulding

    The ratio of Plaster to Lime should not be weaker than 50%

    Regards

  • That crown mold looks great. I also fabricate plaster crown molds and medallions. I use plexiglass for the knife and two rails for the sled. I use a rail on the ceiling and a rail on the wall. Waxed of course. I am capable of molding the miter by hand but I run small sections on a bench and cut them with a diamond saw and install the miter afterward. It saves time and looks fantastic.

  • Hi and thanks for watching we also run sections down on a bench when possible unfortuanatly with a lot of vVctorian and Edwardian mouldings the members are not always deep enough to allow that when you are picking up on an original run

    Regards

    Sarah

  • @volvot5se I know exactly what you mean. When we run a shallow moulding on a bench we deviate from the traditional moulding plaster and use use bagged veneer plaster. Diamond finish by USG here in america. It's very strong even down to 3/8" thickness. We reinforce the unit with nylon fiber and fiberglass mesh backing. I doubt if a historic commission would favor the use of veneer plaster, but it is very strong and achieves great detail.

  • We mostly have to repair lengths of original mouldings so we have to run into these so running down on a bench is not always the option because a lot of original mouldings members are sunken below the ceiling line mainly because the original moulding was run on the plaster screeds and then the ceiling and walls were the set afterwards

    Regards

    Colin

  • @volvot5se Also, some questions. How do you cut your metal knife? I use to use shears and files; it was very time consuming. That is why I switched to the plexi. Have you ever had your knifes cut by water jet? If I have to ever have metal cut again, I am definitely doing water jet. It's very affordable and accurate. And how long have you been doing this work? Family business?

  • HI Have had some profiles cut by laser or CNC but this is only for high class work normally we cut by hand and file to shape

    Regards

  • Hi Colin, had a look at your other video of the arch and you use zinc. Is that the same for this template? Reason i ask is that a section of ours around 600mm, has crumbled away and every plasterer ive had cant repair it.

    What do you take the template profile with?

    Thanx again.

  • Hi There are a couple of ways to take a template of your cornice the first and more difficult is a clay squeeze the second way and the easiest is to cut through the moulding with a saw making sure the cut is square do this on a good section of the cornice then slip the zinc into the cut again make sure it is square to the wall and ceiling line and draw around your moulding. The saw cut can be easily repaired Hope this helps

    Regards

    Colin

  • Hi colin thanx for your info. Builders merchant is getting the plaster of paris in for me and going to give it a go. My garage is plasterboarded so going to try their first. Will let you know how i get on. A big thanx again.

  • Glad to be of assistance

    Regards

  • Do you take the profile of the origional cornice then make a template, or can you buy them made. Nice to see the origional methods still in use

  • Thanks for your comment.Yes you would normally take a template as years ago each plasterer would make the running mould himself as to the builders design ,So not one mould would be the same in anyway.One mould would be used on the estate being built so you can imagine if three plasterers worked on the same site each tradesman's mould would differ in size by a small amount and would not match another man's work unless they were all made by an engineering firm

    Regards

    Colin

  • i just done some of this in collage i loved it. thanks steve if you read this.

  • Hi Steve Joint rules are various lengths of steel normally 4 inches in width with one end cut to a 45 degree angle used for carving your mitres they are honed on one edge.A float coat also known as a browning coat is a base coat on which you would apply your finishing coat too. Base coats are becoming rare in this modern world as plaster/wallboard is becoming a popular method as it only requires setting as for rabit it acts as a guide on your running mould only used in certain casesRegardsColin

  • Hi Steve Many thanks will answer your questions asap

    Regards

  • very nice video - great choice of music and very clear. May I ask a couple of questions? What plaster of paris are you using - I've used herculite for small repairs and casting new sections on the bench, would you use it for this? How do you cope with running above windows - presumably anything that could obstruct the run like mouldings needs removing and a board put up to span the opening? How would you cope with an uneven ceiling with the odd cm of deflection? Tips on making the mould?Tx

  • Thanks for your comment as you ask a few questions I will get back to you asap

    Time is a little tite at the moment

    Regards

  • Hi Ramonetheonly The plaster used for running in situ is Fine casting plaster the gauge to lime should not be weaker than 50% Herculite is the next strength up mainly used for benchwork .Running over window areas requires just the rule to span the area but your mould would have a rabit fixed to the underside of the horse.coping with uneven walls and ceilings requires you to run screeds of lime putty and plaster on the wall and ceiling line.Hope this answers the your questions

    Regards

    Colin

  • where are you based?

  • We are based in Shepperton England

    Regards

  • nice to see run insitu!! ran loads of external cornice all insitu in germany now back in wales

  • Hi I always found this side of plastering as very satisfying and rewarding keep it up as there does not seem to be many of us left

    Regards

  • nice to see it run insitu , spent a long time in germany runing loads of external cornice all in insitu regards stuy

  • Nice job not offten seen nowadays... last time i did one like that was 15 years ago

  • Thanks Steve hope you get more enquiries it really does pay well

    Regards

    Colin

  • thats nice work haven done it like that in years though. I prefer to set up a bench and run it on that using wool skrim and timber splints for strength just find it handier for running mutiple lengths then taking it to the job when it sets. very rare that its done though only when your doing a job in a old house that you cant get the pre moulded cornice. do you not use casting plaster for running moulds

  • Hi Class A plaster is plaster of Paris when running in situ you cant use it neat hence the Lime if you tried to use it without the lime it would expand to much and part company with the background we only use it neat when running down on a bench or taking cast's from a reverse mould

    Hope this helps

    Regards

    Sarah

  • what can i use to apply a cornice on drywall. I dont see why plaster wouldnt stick to drywall?

  • I need more info Are you talking fibrous Cornice or Gyproc coving

  • no. iam taking about running a cornice on the spot on drywall, i have seen it done, I can be done, not sure what they used they used something different for the scrach coat, i beleave was a mix of durabond 90 with drywall compound a quickset mud coumpound that dry is less than 90 min

  • Are you outside of the UK because different methods used abroad I would not know about as for using plaster and putty on drywall can be used but you would need to key it well and also seal the boards.You would have to run the mould using a rabbet on your running mould otherwise the paper on the drywall would tear as the mould was passed over the run

  • yes im in northamerica, we use a lot sheet rock here, for drywall. Nomally a thin

    smooth coat of hard dura bond 45 is applied to area just below cornice, to protect paper on drywall and give plaster something for it to bite into for ceiling and wall bonding with the plaster / moulding plaster mix ( top coat). yes the runner brd on wall needs to be offset not damage wall or paper .I was hoping some in Northa america could help me with the mix for scratch coat over drywall.

  • Around 90% of drywall in the UK has a finish coat of Thistle Board finish applied for decorating,we also have a float coat called Thistle Bonding this will give added strength and extra fire protection this has a finish coat applied when set Ie: Thistle Finish you could then run a Cornice without a problem.

  • also how do you do inside corners, i seen some people use a stright edge,

    and feather it in. What about a blade set 45 degrees that is cad out so the blade skew angle is match rather than 90 to wall

    this way you can side into corner and flip back on wall and back out. make 90 deg inside corner easier.

  • We use joint rules for internal and external Mitres these are specially honed tools for the job.

  • I dont use joint rules for externals. Its much easier(for me) and crisper to over run running rules by notching them out to allow the horse to pass through both ways.Nice video.

  • Thanks for the comment yes agree with you about externals we do the same its not an easy one to explain to someone who has not seen it before

    All the best

  • is it moulding plaster? plaster of paris?

    what is the difference?

  • Hi Plaster of Paris is used for moulding The only difference is there are several grades of plaster used in industry from low to high tensile strength we use the standard Casting Plaster to run mouldings in situ if you are casting ornaments etc you would not add Lime

    Regards

    Colin

  • what is the mix, you use and info onthe type of plaster ect... please post info

  • The mix has to be Lime Putty and Casting Plaster when mixed together the ratio of plaster must not fall below 50% oterwise your finished moulding would be to soft

  • if i want to do this on drywall, can I run a scratch coat ie dura bond 90 on wall as base coat..... then use

    lime putty and casting plaster...?

  • Sarah you are a class act...very nicely done......and nice techniques with the gauging trowel and joint rule...........respect

  • Your comment is very much appreciated

    Thanks

    Sarah

  • GULP ! Now that is skill.

  • Thanks Roy glad you like it and thanks for your appreciative comment

  • I just love this little video. I've just watched it for the 10th time. I find it calming and soothing.

  • Thanks Ron for the comment can I now add therapist to the side of my van LoL!

    Love your Vid by the way

    Regards

    Colin

  • Nice work. Run cornice myself with gypsum plaster. The mix you use looked nice and creamy. Lovely miter's

  • Thanks for your kind words much appreciated the lime makes it pliable also slows up the expansion

    Regards

  • Can I ask what is the reciepe that you use?

  • No weaker than 50% Lime putty and 50% Plaster Hope this answer's the question

    Regards

  • May I ask what you use to face off your moulds? I always fashion mine out of a zinc soaker.

  • I use a heavy gauge zinc with a 18 mm marine ply horse this stops the mould chattering if you are really fussy you can get a local engeneering shop to cut the profile in stainless

    Regards

  • Im very impressed well done that girl,

  • Thank you so much for this. RontheBuilderx

  • Thank you for watching

    Regards

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