Hey Dave - the TT250 and XT250 forks are the same length and diameter as the TT500 forks but are not identical. The TT500 forks have a narrower tube section between the top and bottom clamps and are probably lighter. My last TT500 had TT250 forks on it and I would guess it is probably fairly common replacement for damaged originals.
Yeah it's not a smooth hole, it does have some flats or indentations so just keep trying. I had to reshape my broom stick a few times to get it to stick in there. If you can get hold of a rattle gun it might be easier than by hand too.
I hope this helps someone. I have an '83 YZ250 with 43mm KYB forks and had some trouble removing the hex bolt on the bottom of the fork.. If you are having trouble with the broom stick trick, use a nut with a width of 29mm (the one i got was a M20 - 2.5 nut), welded to a rod, or a piece of rebar. If you don't have a welder, get two of the nuts and jam them on a threaded rod. Essentially what you need to do is make (or buy if you can find one) a 29mm hex key.
Thank you for posting this. Wish the music was replaced with you explaining the steps though. If it wasn't for your comments I wouldn't have known that was a broom stick being used to hold the damper. Ok so now I have a question. Are there any bushings or other seals that I should inspect and possibly replace while doing this? Thank you for the video and the answers to all the questions.
Just want to say thanks for the video.Pretty simple job when ya see it done like that.I just did my 82 yamaha maxim 750 forks and they are the same setup.Took me ten minues,6 to watch the video twice and 4 to do the work.Saved my self a couple hundred dollars.Thanx again
Folks, just don't get hit in the eye when those parts going flying out when using the screwdriver.
For pulling seals I prefer using a $10 seal puller form the auto parts store. Lever them out at the end of a work table w a scrap of wood to protect the tubes.
awsome, so glad there is so much help on youtube for this topic. I am going my seals on a 78 kz650 soon and This is the type of thing that give a guy confidence. Hell I tear down and rebuild a small engine I can do this I think.
Hi - that's what the broom stick is for - you jam it into the end of the damper rod to stop it turning (up the open end of the fork tube) which is what the allen bolt screws into. It's a lot easier with an air wrench.
2:15 At this point , do you put some loctite ( non-permanent ) on the allen screw ?? Or it's not a good idea ?? cause it's always diiffcult to remove ?
Great vid but I've learned to do that just a bit differently. Since I don't own an impact wrench, I leave the fork assembly intact and that will keep enough pressure on the damper that I can remove the bolt at the bottom of the lower with minimal problems.
Your technique worked perfect! Replaced the seals on an 87 honda xl600r in 1 hour without specialty tools. Took my time and made sure I followed yor tricks. First time! Nice video! Got any more?
The forks look like they're from an older Honda xl. I have an 87 xl600r.
Was wondering what the pole is made out of that you used to hold the piston from moving when tightening the allen bolt. Looks like a broom handle???? You make it look easy. GREAT JOB!
Thanks, they are 1980 TT250 forks made by showa so probably used on a number of jap bikes from that era. Ans yes it is the old broom handle trick - you need to sharpen the broom handle to fit the spline type end of the damper rod :)
If the fork is cleaned out and the seal won't go in then the seal is the wrong size. The seal is an imbedded spring to clamp to the inner shaft and a metal outer ring to fit the outer shaft so this is the metal ring you describe. Yours is too big or poor quality sorry.
Hey thanks for the video mate! I want more preload up front and was thinking on making urethane "washers" to go on top of the spring. Do you think it's a good idea or should I go with machined aluminium or somehting. I was thinking on urethane to ease up an eventual "bottoming". Thnx again!!
Yes I have used what we call industrial nylon which is basically black plastic - for a variety of things like this and it stands up well. It would be worth a go and check it in six months time to make sure it is still OK.
I appreciate you putting video on, however I wish you would have explained what you were doing instead of the music. It's hard for a non mechanical person such as myself to follow all that you are doing from a distant camera without explanation. But thanks!
Hey Dave - the TT250 and XT250 forks are the same length and diameter as the TT500 forks but are not identical. The TT500 forks have a narrower tube section between the top and bottom clamps and are probably lighter. My last TT500 had TT250 forks on it and I would guess it is probably fairly common replacement for damaged originals.
wiredkiwi 4 months ago
Hi Mate,
Are those forks the same as a 1979 XT500??
Best Regards
Dave
superbike352004 4 months ago
Yeah it's not a smooth hole, it does have some flats or indentations so just keep trying. I had to reshape my broom stick a few times to get it to stick in there. If you can get hold of a rattle gun it might be easier than by hand too.
wiredkiwi 11 months ago
I hope this helps someone. I have an '83 YZ250 with 43mm KYB forks and had some trouble removing the hex bolt on the bottom of the fork.. If you are having trouble with the broom stick trick, use a nut with a width of 29mm (the one i got was a M20 - 2.5 nut), welded to a rod, or a piece of rebar. If you don't have a welder, get two of the nuts and jam them on a threaded rod. Essentially what you need to do is make (or buy if you can find one) a 29mm hex key.
edave5 1 year ago
Thank you for posting this. Wish the music was replaced with you explaining the steps though. If it wasn't for your comments I wouldn't have known that was a broom stick being used to hold the damper. Ok so now I have a question. Are there any bushings or other seals that I should inspect and possibly replace while doing this? Thank you for the video and the answers to all the questions.
UvisionMedia 1 year ago
I'm afraid that I'll scratch my new fork tube which cost $280. I wish I had the guts, though.
dirtyjett 1 year ago
Just want to say thanks for the video.Pretty simple job when ya see it done like that.I just did my 82 yamaha maxim 750 forks and they are the same setup.Took me ten minues,6 to watch the video twice and 4 to do the work.Saved my self a couple hundred dollars.Thanx again
blueboxdude 1 year ago
Folks, just don't get hit in the eye when those parts going flying out when using the screwdriver.
For pulling seals I prefer using a $10 seal puller form the auto parts store. Lever them out at the end of a work table w a scrap of wood to protect the tubes.
herk650 1 year ago
awsome, so glad there is so much help on youtube for this topic. I am going my seals on a 78 kz650 soon and This is the type of thing that give a guy confidence. Hell I tear down and rebuild a small engine I can do this I think.
brenthoser99 1 year ago
HI, could you tell me the diameter or the bar your using cause i got the classic allen bolt spinning the damper, it's on a 75 rd 350
Thanks
jlpounds2001 1 year ago
Hi - that's what the broom stick is for - you jam it into the end of the damper rod to stop it turning (up the open end of the fork tube) which is what the allen bolt screws into. It's a lot easier with an air wrench.
wiredkiwi 1 year ago
@jlpounds2001
you could use a broom stick, just push hard and gun the bolt
whoopdedolalala 1 year ago
Good stuff! I have an 1982 XT200 with leaking seals, and am currently rebuilding two Pentons.
quiteactually 1 year ago
Thank you
Brockchamberlain11 1 year ago
I WANT YOU TO DO MY FORKS BRO.
rob1upon1gsxr1000 2 years ago 3
2:15 At this point , do you put some loctite ( non-permanent ) on the allen screw ?? Or it's not a good idea ?? cause it's always diiffcult to remove ?
gs400s 2 years ago
No I wouldn't do that, it's hard enough to get off as it is! Maybe a little oil and torque it up.
wiredkiwi 2 years ago
different grades of loctite.
BigManlyMan4 2 years ago
I AM CHANGING THE SEALS OF MY KDX220 00' great tutorial!!!!! A++
corpmedia 2 years ago
Well done mate, great vid!!
denzlepob 2 years ago
You are the man braah! Love your your vid. Dismantled my 95 vlx forks. Thanks a bunch!
brooksidemech 2 years ago
damn im taking mine to the mechanics and then not doing wheelies ever again lol. If i tried this I know id mess it up
steady2wheels 2 years ago
Great vid but I've learned to do that just a bit differently. Since I don't own an impact wrench, I leave the fork assembly intact and that will keep enough pressure on the damper that I can remove the bolt at the bottom of the lower with minimal problems.
scvic2006 2 years ago
chur bro v helpful
rabidnz 2 years ago
how about fork seals on a 06 crf 150f ?
motogpnutt 2 years ago
Your technique worked perfect! Replaced the seals on an 87 honda xl600r in 1 hour without specialty tools. Took my time and made sure I followed yor tricks. First time! Nice video! Got any more?
Thanks again
eitsvideo 2 years ago
Great video,
The forks look like they're from an older Honda xl. I have an 87 xl600r.
Was wondering what the pole is made out of that you used to hold the piston from moving when tightening the allen bolt. Looks like a broom handle???? You make it look easy. GREAT JOB!
eitsvideo 2 years ago
Thanks, they are 1980 TT250 forks made by showa so probably used on a number of jap bikes from that era. Ans yes it is the old broom handle trick - you need to sharpen the broom handle to fit the spline type end of the damper rod :)
wiredkiwi 2 years ago
If the fork is cleaned out and the seal won't go in then the seal is the wrong size. The seal is an imbedded spring to clamp to the inner shaft and a metal outer ring to fit the outer shaft so this is the metal ring you describe. Yours is too big or poor quality sorry.
wiredkiwi 3 years ago
Narration please!
axisboldasboognish 3 years ago
Hey thanks for the video mate! I want more preload up front and was thinking on making urethane "washers" to go on top of the spring. Do you think it's a good idea or should I go with machined aluminium or somehting. I was thinking on urethane to ease up an eventual "bottoming". Thnx again!!
RealHimura 3 years ago
Yes I have used what we call industrial nylon which is basically black plastic - for a variety of things like this and it stands up well. It would be worth a go and check it in six months time to make sure it is still OK.
wiredkiwi 3 years ago
nice songs:D
honktonko 3 years ago
I appreciate you putting video on, however I wish you would have explained what you were doing instead of the music. It's hard for a non mechanical person such as myself to follow all that you are doing from a distant camera without explanation. But thanks!
jdh023 3 years ago
Hi John, thanks for you comment. I guess I'm not much of a talker but I take your point. I'll try adding some narration to the next film :)
wiredkiwi 3 years ago
You could always add annotations to this one :D I too would like to know whats actually happening in there. Nice video and cool song.
MohadibTheHorrible 2 years ago