Hey Eric,I have a question.Its not about a car but its about a Motorcycle.My 1983 Kawasaki GPZ 750.The bike which I picked up two weeks back has trouble getting it started.Has only 36K kilometers on it.The carbs are clean like new.Carbs getting gas all the time but the fuel is not getting into the cylinders.All the spark plugs are dry.Am pretty sure that there is nothing wrong with the carbs and ignition system.Does it have anything to do with poor compression or tight valves anything like that?
@ryder2shae it's a kawasaki...thats your problem to begin with!...check for wasp nests,little fucking barstards!.stuck carby floats,jets?...yeah i got nothin?,im sorry i'd like to but can't help ya,not in front of me and i don't know much about thoses bikes,try sendin this bloke a message instead of a comment he might not see?...i think asking in a motorcycle forum would be best as far as online goes.
I am looking to buy a 2008 toyota camry v6. However, i'm worried about the engine. It still has one more year under factory warranty, but the guy i'm considering buying it from seems to be a racer and likes installing mods on his vehicle. How can I assure that the engine is in good condition?
I have a little problem I just did a compression test on my van. The spark plug adapter unscrewed its self from the hose and is stuck in the spark plug home down the spark plug tube. I tried to red lock tight them together and even then the lock tight brakes before the adapter comes free. How can I get the adapter out with out taking apart my engine?
@mikezaq1 you have found yourself in a world of shit!...umm,try drowning the spark plug tube with brake cleaner,blow out with an air blower,repeat untill very clean,clean the other thread too...put quality super glue on the thread,screw in as quickly as you can and let dry,pray to the gods of mech while it's drying....big arse left hand drill bit?,ether way sounds like your gunna have to destroy it to remove,hope this helps,please let me know how ya go :]
@MyDucatiGT1000.So after 4 or 5 hours trying to get it out I gave up on trying to save the tester.I tried drilling and an easy out extractor but the tester would not budge.I ended up pulling the head off the engine.wow was I surprised at what I found! The end of the compression tester had split in half and mushroomed out jamming it in the hole.I took the head down to my local mill guy he bored out the tester with out damaging the threads.NEVER BUY A CRAFTSMAN COMPRESSION TESTER!
hey Eric do u have any suggestions on how to fix a GM passlock II system that stops the engine from starting..they changed out the fuel pump ( of course that wasn't the problem ) and now my gas mileage is terrible !!
@dansschurman mhmm you need power, you need torque and horses so you drive your car when it's warm\hot :-)! You should do the test when your engine is warm. Also using the right oil, original cylinder head measurements and check the right pressure against each other (the original values with the values of\from your test)
The compression tester was the best 30 bucks I spent. Two middle cylinders running 30 psi. No wonder it won't start. My head gasket didn't leak any coolant into the cylinders just fuel into the oil? Now doing a full engine rebuild. If I'm down to the head gasket might as well check everything. lol
Not that it matters for this, but on most engines the cylinder closest to the acc. drive is #1. The one you are calling #1 should be #4 on that Honda motor.
Also should do comp test with throttle wide open and good idea to put a charger on the battery.
wow, great vid, that's so informative. especially when you were talking about the 1st cylinder on V engines. I didnt notice that, short sweet and to the point.
hey eric i have a srt 4 neon im going to do a compression test today. the reason being intermittently at idle my car is burning oil any ideas. has 124K nd runs good just burning oil blue smoke not good thanks
Can you please tell me what kind of preassure I can expect form a Diesel test? I have the Ford 4 cylinder common rail diesel that is the 2.0 litre and having the timing chain. Installed in a Mondeo. (UK name) I was thinking I could turn up a solid adaptor to extend up from the injector hole up to the outside world that has space inside its tubular shape to add to the combustion chamber, reducing the compression ratio and thus allowing me to use my tester that is for a gas engine.
@rushymoto (continued) But this would not test the real integrity of the engine but just give me a comparison between cylinders. I am really only needing to check for valve damage due to the timing chain jumping a tooth on the front cam shaft. I am making the maximum effort to try and avoid taking the cylinder head off as I hate working on modern cars, To little room for my fingers.
@greatdane114 Just 1 bar difference would be enough to show some kind of problem. You need to start using a smaller fraction. That is why most working preasures are done in PSI, Pounds per Square Inch. 1 Bar is about 14.5 PSI. Just 1 bar difference is 14.5 PSI, I would be looking for less difference than this. Also remember to do the test cold, and then run the engine and do it hot.
i got a question, a new chevy 350 just buuilt, 2 weeks later, some lifters leak down, ive replaced them again, same thing, any helpfull advice???? thanks
I have an 84 Bronco with a 351 Cleveland with 4V heads. I'm going to do a compression test. Should the engine be warmed up prior to doing it? Also, should all the plugs be removed before doing it? Would you know about what amount of compression that I should be expecting if all the valves, head gaskets and rings are all right? Thanks
how come auto manufacturers don't sleeve engines in the first place like some diesels so instead of boring it out or junking a block you can just replace the sleeves?
mhm low pressure :-( It also could be a hole in the piston crown :-D or in newly engines a hole where the knock sensor is placed. (some are placed in the cylinder wall) :-D xD hell yeah very, very informative but nothing is new for me ;-)
@TeeWeeQcKsteel Compression testing is just a start, if you really want to know where the leak is a leak down is the way to go. I believe I referred to that in the video and I believe I've posted a link in the description to it. Thanks for the comment.
@TeeWeeQcKsteel thats how i read it too...just sayin....although i've replaced a few,i've never heard of combustion leaks though knock sensors,wouldn't it have to go through the block,do you have any examples of it happening? notice the smilely face... :]
@MyDucatiGT1000 yeahhh ;-) I've noticed the smile on ya face, mate! Well, my job now is to tell you some examples... Are there any?! O.O xD I am sorry I can't tell more than one example: the leak have to go through a hairline crack, on the way to the knock sensor. Can happen but must not. Some knock sensors are right next to the cyinder wall, the wall is thin, a hairline crack is easy to brake! Long story short?! In my loopy opinion my comment is not very helpful.. :-D
@vTeChRDC5 k20 type r? what exact engine code is that? If you can figure out what compression ratio that engine has you can use a conversion calculator to calculate the amount of psi it should be pushing out.
@chamblizi I would fix the oil leak first and check the oil pressure with an analog gauge to see what pressure you really have, if the engine has noise AND low oil pressure it may be time for a rebuild or replacement.
@EricTheCarGuy it worked fine for awhile now i am working on getting the sensor and test the compression if i have decent compression then i can bear anything that is thrown my way but if the pistons are F*ed over then time for engine swap
hey eric i have a problem my 1975 ranchero i just got ~,~ its a shitty gm shared engine 400 cid i am having several issues 1 is that there is some type of sensor behind the air box that is leaking..... i was coming home and i noticed a tapping sound . Now 2 days later there is barely no oil on the stick what so ever it is hard to start on cold days considering this vehicle recommends 20w-30 and 20-40 Weight oil not sure if the sensor was a oil pressure sensor that just completly failed causing
@chamblizi You might want to recheck those oil numbers from what I remember it was either 10W 30 or 10W40 that those things used but even so you might have an oil consumption problem. As for the hard starting it might have nothing to do with the compression but perhaps a carburetor issue. As for the leaking sensor I'm not sure but it could be the oil pressure sensor.
@vatan1923 No but some have glow plugs that you can remove and do the test in the same way, with others you might be able to remove the injectors to insert the tool to do the test with the correct adapters.
Thank you. I am working on my ZX7R ninja and trying to see why it wont fire. This is one of the things I have been told to do. Thanks and I will keep you informed.
@Catass2089 Sparks plugs are there to make the spark in which the fuel needs to combust.
Engine spins because of the starter motor, that's the thing that spins it, which spins everything else including your pistons to create pressure in the chamber, the pressure compresses the air/fuel needed to "Blow" after the spark plugs create the spark..
Hope it helps, some one correct me if I am wrong lol
@Catass2089 The spark plugs don't make the engine turn over the starter does and yes you would do this same thing on any engine it's just a matter of putting the gauge in to measure the compression.
the way u explain everything is perfect and to the point and very easy to understand.For this I thank you.As far as a question I have a 2000 Chevy blazer v 6 4.3 I replaced my knock sensor and the next day the check engine light came back and sure enough knock sensor bank 1 low circuit everyone says their is only one it's on the back of the block driver side do u know of another one
My mechanic told me that the cylinder number 8 had an electric leak, what y mean is that the spark plug was not completely seal and the nut that hold the spark was broken and this could cause a compression problem is that true ?
Eric i have the same problem with my 2001 f150 In some point when driving i felt that the car was shaking and my mechanic said that there was a problem with compression, of course if this truck had a distributor it would be much easier to locate the cylinder that was having problems but since this truck has separate coil a scan tool had to be plugged to see the cylinder.
@noel122584 Yea I had some extra so I used it in my oil can, it's really oil just dyed red and has additives in it especially for automatic transmissions.
@EricTheCarGuy hey eirc is the front of the engine where the timing belt is? this has always confused me, some people say the front of the engine is where the flywheel is. greta videos by the way :)
@7serif That would be more of a 'dynamic compression test' which is not covered here. I'm not sure how valves are adjusted that way however. Good luck.
Thanks for the Information I have a 23 year old car and and her compression is going out real bad I'm going to replace the pistons in hope of saving her she can drive 12 hours on 18 dollars worth of gas I thing its worth the save!
@1cornia You might be better off replacing the engine, as just replacing the pistons is not often enough, you might also need to do some machining to get things back into spec. Good luck.
@journeyquest1 I suppose you could say that but a head gasket may only show up if it's between 2 cylinders. You might want to watch the Diagnosing A Cooling System Overheat for a test for a head gasket failure.
@stanb420 That information is specific to the engine that your working on. In my experience these numbers were fairly typical but if you really want to know what shape the engine is in do a Leak Down test as it is far more accurate. A compression test is normally good for a 'quick look' at an engines general health but nothing more.
@RalphdaCuban It is true that many fuel injection systems rely on a vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator however if you have a compression loss vacuum loss is really not the primary concern. Thanks for your comment.
@EricTheCarGuy very true Eric at that point vacuum is the least of your worries, by the way I enjoy your videos very much, I wish aviation training where of this quality those things put you to sleep.
Eric - Thanks for this video! I'm going to check out the rest of your uploads. I have a 98 Saab 900 S Turbo with 94k miles and it's getting horrible mileage (15mpg). I'm not much of a car guy so I'm trying to figure out what could be wrong. Somebody suggested a compression test - that's how I found you. These videos are great!
@elinewell You might also consider looking into any check engine lights you might have and also check the turbo operation. I would also recommend posting this question to the ETCG forum on my website as there are a lot of people there that may also be able to offer suggestion.
Makes sense. I guess I have to stick to the "trial and error" method. Since tuning by ear has worked great for me in the past for finding that "sweet spot" for air fuel mix detonation (even though there are stock settings for timing). We folks down here have a problem with watery gas (even in premium) That water does make the perfect detonation hard to find. But hey,thanks for the quick reply. I was just hoping that there tool could be used to make tuning by ear turn into tuning by sight. Peace
@gregorydtatum I understand where your coming from but modern engines are engineered within an inch of their life and to do things by 'ear' can do more harm that good in the long run especially when it comes to timing the engine. As for detonation on a scale of 1-10 by the time you actually hear it you are at 7 or 8 on the scale.
cause of the position of the piston inside. If you retard your timing toward zero your compresion increases toward the maximum amount right? So, shouldn't (if it were possible to do this test with a compression gauge) the compression gauge be able to give you an idea (while turning the distributor) of the best compression (or piston position) to set your timing at? I hope I'm explaining it like I see it in my head. Again thanks man for the reply and I'll TRY not to bother you with more stupid ?s
@gregorydtatum Compression is constant and has nothing to do with when the plug fires. Since the time it takes for the mixture to burn is also relatively constant the 'timing' of when you begin combustion is critical for optimum power and efficiency. I think you need to change you thinking of the relationship between compression and when the spark occurs as you are kind of getting into left field.
@gregorydtatum Compression is constant and has nothing to do with when the plug fires. Since the time it takes for the mixture to burn is also relatively constant the 'timing' of when you begin combustion is critical for optimum power and efficiency. I think you need to change you thinking of the relationship between compression and when the spark occurs as you are kind of getting into left field.
Thanks for getting back to me so fast Eric. And I wanna go on record as saying DUH, duh, duhhh Greg. I totally forgot to take in consideration the fact the plug fires BEFORE top dead center. If not, the timing would be set to 0. But i was more in the lane of thinking that maybe the compression tester can give you an idea of how deep the stroke is and compression in the cylinder just before ignition. Then while slowly turning the distributor the pre-ignition compression changes........
Heck of a video man! I agree with the others that say you should be a teacher if you're not already. I just have one question. Since ignition timing is basically when the spark plug fires compared to the piston's position on the compression stroke.......I wonder, can a compression gauge be used to set OPTIMUM engine timing? I often have WEIRD questions to ask (I like to think outside the box) so forgive me in advance, think about it, and get back to me. Thanks, GREG
@gregorydtatum No, it's not dependent on compression but something called 'wavefront propagation' and you actually want to make the spark before the piston is all the way up so you would not be at full compression when you initiated the spark.
@thaik56 Hard to say really, now that you have ruled out a mechanical issue you might look for any check engine lights and fix those first, also check your tune up items and now that I think about it what you describe could be an exhaust restriction issue so perhaps drop the exhaust and take it for a drive to see if the performance comes back.
I've been getting that answer too about the exhaust.
But I forgot to mentioned that when I feel the loss of power, I can hear valve noise.
In fact, when the car is hot and I'm right over the engine bay, I can hear some light tapping noise, it doesn't seem to serious, but it's really there.
I don't have any check engine light, I've done the valve adjustment few month ago right in the middle specs, and I've been getting better fuel economy ever since. Just that noise and loss power
About the valve tapping, I can clearly hear it at around 3k rpm, that's when it's really noticeable. But it does it only when accelerating, when decelerating or maintaining speed, I can't hear it.
@thaik56 It could be a timing issue or octane issue, you might want to check the timing to see if it's in spec and also check for any slack in your timing chain or belt as this can also cause ignition timing variations.
@thaik56 There are lots of things that can cause performance problems I'm just suggesting that you not rule out a mechanical issue as that is something that often gets overlooked.
Master... this video saved me a lot of money in myths and tales from the bloody monsters of mechanics. I just bought the compressor taster and did what the video say. I just have to change one damaged spark plug, instead changing 2 pistons and gasket (what the mechanic said)
Hi i have a 95 Eclipse GST , the turbo just stop boosting, its a 2 weeks old Ebay 16g turbo i took off the turbo and it doesn't have a lot of shaft play or smoking ,i but it sounds wired when i press the gas it doesn't give any boost at all when I'm driving ,i checked boost leaks and everything looks good. My ?? is what happened when the internal waste gate doesn't work?or Is it a blown turbo? Thanks man.
@mariohdz2626 That's a tough call as there are a lot of things that could cause a boost issue, it could also be an engine performance issue. To be honest I can't offer much without looking at it for myself. You might consider posting this question to my forum as there are a lot of smart people there that might know something I don't.
@mariohdz2626 Glad you listened to my advice...I've had plenty of experience with ebay garbage over the years on my eclipse. I just finished a major build, induced by my ebay trash that i put on cause i needed a dd and was low in the wallet. Now im runnin a completely built head by dsmgraveyard = 1750. MHI evo III Big 16g. DSMlink on 95 eprom. web 272s on obx gears. tubular manifold. ported out 2g head to 1g ecimulti intake. and everything else greddy or hks.
Hey Eric. You are my favorite YouTube guy. I don't watch videos all that much, but I pretty much watched all your videos. You are very inspiring.
Do you know what causes brand new cars to burn oil? I had an 2000 Honda accord and an 07 wrangler that had oil burning issues since day one. I even had the accord engine rebuilt with new piston rings but the problem didn't go away. I eventually sold both cars because of it. Did I get a lemon or did the car not break in properly? I was losing about 2 q
@k9driver There IS something to breaking in a new engine, it normally takes about 500 miles, you basically avoid WOT and vary your speed so that your not running at a constant RPM all the time. Sustained high speed driving will burn oil with ANY engine so if this is how you normally drive you can expect to burn more oil because of increased cylinder pressure.
If the tester fitting is just hand tight by twisting that rubber hose, how do you know you arent getting any leaks through the threads and that the compression number you are getting is accurate?
@Amopower By no means is this an accurate test of cylinder sealing in the first place so a 'little' leakage really won't make a difference in my opinion but if you install the test lead correctly there should be little leakage as it seals with an 'o' ring.
@thebigdille The spark plugs in this engine are actually fine, spark plug reading takes years of practice and should be done on a hot engine, this engine was cold hence the reason they looked 'fouled' as you say.
you sound/act just like Mike Rowe from dirty jobs lol
very good information here. I am about to do a compression test tomorrow because my car is burning oil and white smoke is coming out of my exhaust. I know a Leak Down Test is much more accurate but i don't have an air compressor at the moment so im just gonna go with a compression test. But before i do the compression test (wet and dry) on all 4 cylinders, how can i tell if the piston rings are bad? Im really hoping its just my valve seals
@bomsexplosive It's probably not the valve seals but as described in the video the wet test helps give evidence to the rings condition especially if it goes up significantly. You might also want to check for a head gasket problem, I cover that in the Diagnosing an Overheat Condition video.
@EricTheCarGuy ok, but how high from the dry to wet compression has to be to determine a bad ring? above 10% 20% 30%? say 190(dry) 230(wet) is that bad?
@bomsexplosive Yes it is, it's more than 20%, it should only be around 10% and not more than 20% but keep in mind this is just a general test and really doesn't provide enough accurate information, I would recommend a leak down to confirm it.
I have a chevy astro 4.3 280,000 miles 1989. Live in South FL.Have rough idle problem that appears while in DRIVE, waiting at stop lights? then when drive away, its running bad still?
It seems to be worse when the engine is at full temp in the heat of the day?? I keep picturing the heat and expansion making the IM warp enough to create a vac leak??plugs, wires rotor and cap are good, fuel/air filter are new. cleaned TBI, have re-torqued IM and TBI what do you think of this?? thanks.
@jemjem1974 You might start with a power balance test to see if you have one or more cylinders causing the problem (I did a video on this test). I would also check for vacuum leaks as per the video that I've made on that subject. That should be a good place to start at least.
I gave a question and would really like some help with a response I have a 00 civic ex with a d16y8 and I did the compression test yesterday and across all cylinders I got a reading of 120psi. Do you know why??? Any help?? Thanks
@greddy376 Sounds normal to me. What your looking for with a compression test is consistency, if the cylinders don't vary more than 10% your good, move on.
@EricTheCarGuy I have read many forums and everyone is saying they got a reading of 160psi or more so I was wondering why my numbers were soo low?CCA the numbers can be higher or lower is that right? Thanks alot <
Hey Eric,I have a question.Its not about a car but its about a Motorcycle.My 1983 Kawasaki GPZ 750.The bike which I picked up two weeks back has trouble getting it started.Has only 36K kilometers on it.The carbs are clean like new.Carbs getting gas all the time but the fuel is not getting into the cylinders.All the spark plugs are dry.Am pretty sure that there is nothing wrong with the carbs and ignition system.Does it have anything to do with poor compression or tight valves anything like that?
ryder2shae 2 days ago
@ryder2shae it's a kawasaki...thats your problem to begin with!...check for wasp nests,little fucking barstards!.stuck carby floats,jets?...yeah i got nothin?,im sorry i'd like to but can't help ya,not in front of me and i don't know much about thoses bikes,try sendin this bloke a message instead of a comment he might not see?...i think asking in a motorcycle forum would be best as far as online goes.
safe ridin dude.
MyDucatiGT1000 1 day ago
The Initial puffs are crucial to write down as well.
contagiousFX 6 days ago
I am looking to buy a 2008 toyota camry v6. However, i'm worried about the engine. It still has one more year under factory warranty, but the guy i'm considering buying it from seems to be a racer and likes installing mods on his vehicle. How can I assure that the engine is in good condition?
discusthrowerstate 1 week ago
Great info. Im learning a lot.
crwade2 1 week ago
I have a little problem I just did a compression test on my van. The spark plug adapter unscrewed its self from the hose and is stuck in the spark plug home down the spark plug tube. I tried to red lock tight them together and even then the lock tight brakes before the adapter comes free. How can I get the adapter out with out taking apart my engine?
mikezaq1 1 week ago
@mikezaq1 you have found yourself in a world of shit!...umm,try drowning the spark plug tube with brake cleaner,blow out with an air blower,repeat untill very clean,clean the other thread too...put quality super glue on the thread,screw in as quickly as you can and let dry,pray to the gods of mech while it's drying....big arse left hand drill bit?,ether way sounds like your gunna have to destroy it to remove,hope this helps,please let me know how ya go :]
MyDucatiGT1000 2 days ago
@MyDucatiGT1000.So after 4 or 5 hours trying to get it out I gave up on trying to save the tester.I tried drilling and an easy out extractor but the tester would not budge.I ended up pulling the head off the engine.wow was I surprised at what I found! The end of the compression tester had split in half and mushroomed out jamming it in the hole.I took the head down to my local mill guy he bored out the tester with out damaging the threads.NEVER BUY A CRAFTSMAN COMPRESSION TESTER!
mikezaq1 2 days ago
@mikezaq1 thanks for taking the time,i own a snap on compression tester,not cheap but it's awesome..the different threads are actually one piece,
connector-hose-thread.the kit i've got came with three different attachments.
MyDucatiGT1000 2 days ago
hey Eric do u have any suggestions on how to fix a GM passlock II system that stops the engine from starting..they changed out the fuel pump ( of course that wasn't the problem ) and now my gas mileage is terrible !!
xadam2dudex 2 weeks ago
should you do this test when your engine is warm or cold or does it not matter?
dansschurman 4 weeks ago
@dansschurman mhmm you need power, you need torque and horses so you drive your car when it's warm\hot :-)! You should do the test when your engine is warm. Also using the right oil, original cylinder head measurements and check the right pressure against each other (the original values with the values of\from your test)
TeeWeeQcKsteel 2 days ago
The compression tester was the best 30 bucks I spent. Two middle cylinders running 30 psi. No wonder it won't start. My head gasket didn't leak any coolant into the cylinders just fuel into the oil? Now doing a full engine rebuild. If I'm down to the head gasket might as well check everything. lol
SiRTim1000 4 weeks ago
Not that it matters for this, but on most engines the cylinder closest to the acc. drive is #1. The one you are calling #1 should be #4 on that Honda motor.
Also should do comp test with throttle wide open and good idea to put a charger on the battery.
nate379 1 month ago
wow, great vid, that's so informative. especially when you were talking about the 1st cylinder on V engines. I didnt notice that, short sweet and to the point.
sunny2237 1 month ago
What if you don't torque the rocker arm down to the right spec? Would that give you a hesitation on acceleration?
Thebarbarian54 1 month ago
hey eric i have a srt 4 neon im going to do a compression test today. the reason being intermittently at idle my car is burning oil any ideas. has 124K nd runs good just burning oil blue smoke not good thanks
jrogljacin 1 month ago
Wish u were local to me so you'll b my go to guy for all my service needs...I enjoy watching all your videos
Mr07tC 2 months ago
Can you please tell me what kind of preassure I can expect form a Diesel test? I have the Ford 4 cylinder common rail diesel that is the 2.0 litre and having the timing chain. Installed in a Mondeo. (UK name) I was thinking I could turn up a solid adaptor to extend up from the injector hole up to the outside world that has space inside its tubular shape to add to the combustion chamber, reducing the compression ratio and thus allowing me to use my tester that is for a gas engine.
rushymoto 2 months ago
@rushymoto (continued) But this would not test the real integrity of the engine but just give me a comparison between cylinders. I am really only needing to check for valve damage due to the timing chain jumping a tooth on the front cam shaft. I am making the maximum effort to try and avoid taking the cylinder head off as I hate working on modern cars, To little room for my fingers.
rushymoto 2 months ago
Real good video, I learned a lot from it
xxdarkheartsxx 2 months ago
I have a 1997 Honda Prelude 2.2 vtec. I got 18 / 17 / 18 / 18 (bar)
(18 bar = 261 psi and 17 bar = 246 psi)
What does this mean please? This is really high isn't it?
greatdane114 2 months ago
@greatdane114 Just 1 bar difference would be enough to show some kind of problem. You need to start using a smaller fraction. That is why most working preasures are done in PSI, Pounds per Square Inch. 1 Bar is about 14.5 PSI. Just 1 bar difference is 14.5 PSI, I would be looking for less difference than this. Also remember to do the test cold, and then run the engine and do it hot.
rushymoto 2 months ago
hi ericthecarguy did you pull out the fuel pump fuse or relay
Turbodieselracer 2 months ago
i got a question, a new chevy 350 just buuilt, 2 weeks later, some lifters leak down, ive replaced them again, same thing, any helpfull advice???? thanks
spunkyfreaky1 2 months ago
good videos...its you and scotty kilmer head to head now..oth of you are very well explained and presented...Blessings
JamesofJesus 2 months ago
Hi ericthecarguy i ask you do i need hold wide open the throttle because i saw another video
that this guy put the pliers to hold the throtle is neccesary??
Turbodieselracer 2 months ago
Hi Eric-
I have an 84 Bronco with a 351 Cleveland with 4V heads. I'm going to do a compression test. Should the engine be warmed up prior to doing it? Also, should all the plugs be removed before doing it? Would you know about what amount of compression that I should be expecting if all the valves, head gaskets and rings are all right? Thanks
ryans2kidz 2 months ago
Thanks for the help
fuzziruggi 2 months ago
Ah not to worry.. I found the manual for the car, it said test at normal operating temperatures
AmanJandu 2 months ago
Hi, should a compression test be carried out when the engine is cold or up to operating temps?
AmanJandu 2 months ago
Found the video very interesting ! ive learned a lot from your video ! thank you
BeedieMobilityHire 2 months ago
Good video! Subscribed
brandonGCHACHU 2 months ago
Very nice breakdown Eric. Learned a lot from it and will apply the same steps in my shop. You earned another subscriber.
fondeur 2 months ago
thanks for the videoes.
Eric the fun guy :)
bruslipunk 3 months ago
how come auto manufacturers don't sleeve engines in the first place like some diesels so instead of boring it out or junking a block you can just replace the sleeves?
Choirboyjr11 3 months ago
@Choirboyjr11 business,more profit if a bigger component is sold than a little one like a sleeve.
MustangGTR2 2 months ago
very informative,i dont kno how some pple can thumbs down this vid maybe they are mechanic that work at the dealer or shops haters lol.
hp11208 3 months ago
I have a 150cc gy6 engine in my scooter. It misfires at higher speed/rpms.
It starts very good, idles nice and has good acceleration. But when I get up to near top speed (40mph +) it starts to misfire.
If I had a burnt valve, would it still start and run very good, only to start misfiring at higher speeds?
Could the valve gap being off .001 in. be enough to make it misfire like that?
Hooverdarnit 3 months ago
Thanks for making this so easy to follow/understand. Going out to grab a tester and test the shit outta my engine now!!!
edwardmarcuslam 3 months ago
veery good
Hanikamran 3 months ago
Cool stuff ...I think that's a good test when buying used car...stay dirty
roro560v8 3 months ago
Thanks brahh ur great, ;););););)
vTeChRDC5 3 months ago
mhm low pressure :-( It also could be a hole in the piston crown :-D or in newly engines a hole where the knock sensor is placed. (some are placed in the cylinder wall) :-D xD hell yeah very, very informative but nothing is new for me ;-)
TeeWeeQcKsteel 3 months ago
@TeeWeeQcKsteel Compression testing is just a start, if you really want to know where the leak is a leak down is the way to go. I believe I referred to that in the video and I believe I've posted a link in the description to it. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@TeeWeeQcKsteel they don't put knock sensors in the combustion chamber dude
charlietow 1 month ago
@charlietow I never said the knock sensors are placed IN the combustion chamber ;-).....dude.... :-D
TeeWeeQcKsteel 1 month ago
@TeeWeeQcKsteel thats how i read it too...just sayin....although i've replaced a few,i've never heard of combustion leaks though knock sensors,wouldn't it have to go through the block,do you have any examples of it happening? notice the smilely face... :]
MyDucatiGT1000 2 days ago
@MyDucatiGT1000 yeahhh ;-) I've noticed the smile on ya face, mate! Well, my job now is to tell you some examples... Are there any?! O.O xD I am sorry I can't tell more than one example: the leak have to go through a hairline crack, on the way to the knock sensor. Can happen but must not. Some knock sensors are right next to the cyinder wall, the wall is thin, a hairline crack is easy to brake! Long story short?! In my loopy opinion my comment is not very helpful.. :-D
TeeWeeQcKsteel 2 days ago
@TeeWeeQcKsteel ok well i must be confused, how would compression leak out of a knock sensor hole then? you'd have to have a cracked block for that
charlietow 1 month ago
hey bro I got a k20a type-r my compression is 180 without the wet test is that good or bad cuming from a type-r
vTeChRDC5 3 months ago
@vTeChRDC5 I don't know the exact spec for that engine off of the top of my head but that doesn't sound bad at all.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@vTeChRDC5 What you're really looking for with this test is a variance of more than 20% between cylinders.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@vTeChRDC5 k20 type r? what exact engine code is that? If you can figure out what compression ratio that engine has you can use a conversion calculator to calculate the amount of psi it should be pushing out.
jdmfreak92 2 months ago
ur videos are the best ive ever seen
orville534 3 months ago
@orville534 Thank you for that, glad you like them.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
THANKS DUDE. GREAT HELP...!
spiritwolf391 3 months ago
@spiritwolf391 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
the seal to fail around the sensor thus spewing all my oil out
my other problem is i think my valves could be sticking thus causing the engine to burn up all the oil.. what should i do where should i start
chamblizi 3 months ago
@chamblizi I would fix the oil leak first and check the oil pressure with an analog gauge to see what pressure you really have, if the engine has noise AND low oil pressure it may be time for a rebuild or replacement.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy it worked fine for awhile now i am working on getting the sensor and test the compression if i have decent compression then i can bear anything that is thrown my way but if the pistons are F*ed over then time for engine swap
chamblizi 3 months ago
hey eric i have a problem my 1975 ranchero i just got ~,~ its a shitty gm shared engine 400 cid i am having several issues 1 is that there is some type of sensor behind the air box that is leaking..... i was coming home and i noticed a tapping sound . Now 2 days later there is barely no oil on the stick what so ever it is hard to start on cold days considering this vehicle recommends 20w-30 and 20-40 Weight oil not sure if the sensor was a oil pressure sensor that just completly failed causing
chamblizi 3 months ago
@chamblizi You might want to recheck those oil numbers from what I remember it was either 10W 30 or 10W40 that those things used but even so you might have an oil consumption problem. As for the hard starting it might have nothing to do with the compression but perhaps a carburetor issue. As for the leaking sensor I'm not sure but it could be the oil pressure sensor.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
hey how do u check on diesel engine? they dont have spark plugs? thx
vatan1923 3 months ago
@vatan1923 No but some have glow plugs that you can remove and do the test in the same way, with others you might be able to remove the injectors to insert the tool to do the test with the correct adapters.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Thank you. I am working on my ZX7R ninja and trying to see why it wont fire. This is one of the things I have been told to do. Thanks and I will keep you informed.
Mypringles 3 months ago
@Mypringles Yea often the basic mechanical function of the engine is overlooked when dealing with performance issues. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
this might be a dumb question, but something isn't clear to me: how is the engine still turning over with the spark plugs removed?
also: I would assume this test functions the same way on an outboard marine engine, correct?
Catass2089 3 months ago
@Catass2089 Sparks plugs are there to make the spark in which the fuel needs to combust.
Engine spins because of the starter motor, that's the thing that spins it, which spins everything else including your pistons to create pressure in the chamber, the pressure compresses the air/fuel needed to "Blow" after the spark plugs create the spark..
Hope it helps, some one correct me if I am wrong lol
evankoka12 3 months ago
@evankoka12 thank you, thats kind of what I was thinking too but I wasn't sure of the mechanics behind it. thanks for clearing that up!
Catass2089 3 months ago
@Catass2089 The spark plugs don't make the engine turn over the starter does and yes you would do this same thing on any engine it's just a matter of putting the gauge in to measure the compression.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Not even my teacher of basic engines at uti was able to give me such a clear explanation thanks for the vids you posted
liljoker062000 3 months ago
@liljoker062000 Thanks very much for that comment I really appreciate it.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
the way u explain everything is perfect and to the point and very easy to understand.For this I thank you.As far as a question I have a 2000 Chevy blazer v 6 4.3 I replaced my knock sensor and the next day the check engine light came back and sure enough knock sensor bank 1 low circuit everyone says their is only one it's on the back of the block driver side do u know of another one
1972JasonRS 3 months ago
@1972JasonRS It's not often knock sensors go bad, you might want to check the wiring or the electrical connections one or both could be damaged.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
My mechanic told me that the cylinder number 8 had an electric leak, what y mean is that the spark plug was not completely seal and the nut that hold the spark was broken and this could cause a compression problem is that true ?
PabloMessier 3 months ago
@PabloMessier Yes if the spark plug does not seal the opening to the cylinder properly it can cause compression loss.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Eric i have the same problem with my 2001 f150 In some point when driving i felt that the car was shaking and my mechanic said that there was a problem with compression, of course if this truck had a distributor it would be much easier to locate the cylinder that was having problems but since this truck has separate coil a scan tool had to be plugged to see the cylinder.
PabloMessier 3 months ago
@PabloMessier You don't need a scan tool to do this test just the tool shown in the video.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
hey eric was that transmission oil you poured down the tube or actuall oil?
noel122584 3 months ago
@noel122584 Yea I had some extra so I used it in my oil can, it's really oil just dyed red and has additives in it especially for automatic transmissions.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy hey eirc is the front of the engine where the timing belt is? this has always confused me, some people say the front of the engine is where the flywheel is. greta videos by the way :)
middlemanclayton1 4 months ago
@middlemanclayton1 Opposite of flywheel,as far as I'm concerned...
5ky5tr1d3r 4 months ago
@middlemanclayton1 Back of the engine is for power output, the flywheel, the front is where the crank pulley is.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
i like your lect...
zamreda 4 months ago
nice explanation....i was looking for a video on "adjusting top valves with compression test"
7serif 4 months ago
@7serif That would be more of a 'dynamic compression test' which is not covered here. I'm not sure how valves are adjusted that way however. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
great, great video
paulsjunkcars 4 months ago
@paulsjunkcars Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Thanks for the Information I have a 23 year old car and and her compression is going out real bad I'm going to replace the pistons in hope of saving her she can drive 12 hours on 18 dollars worth of gas I thing its worth the save!
1cornia 4 months ago
@1cornia You might be better off replacing the engine, as just replacing the pistons is not often enough, you might also need to do some machining to get things back into spec. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
nice video brother I like
pavel1809 4 months ago
@pavel1809 That's awesome, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
You should've covered bent valves too. Your videos are great though.
XxENovaxX 4 months ago
@XxENovaxX I covered that in the Leak Down video, at the time I posted this video 10min was the max I could post. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
I have not found a single video that you made that it did'nt like. Keep up the good work, Eric.
BENDPAK7000 4 months ago
@BENDPAK7000 I'm very happy to hear that, thanks very much.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Awesome video! We are using it here at LTI Chicago!
croncone 4 months ago
@croncone That's so cool, thanks for the comment Chicago.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Excellent vid
kritikalmass7 5 months ago
@kritikalmass7 Thanks, glad you liked it.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
So if i am suspecting a head gasket than the wet test is not as important?
journeyquest1 5 months ago
@journeyquest1 I suppose you could say that but a head gasket may only show up if it's between 2 cylinders. You might want to watch the Diagnosing A Cooling System Overheat for a test for a head gasket failure.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
what torque specs do you tighten the spark plugs to?
nico27004 5 months ago
@nico27004 About a 1/4 turn past when the seated.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
were the numbers you got doin the test normal? what numbers do they have be between when doing a compression tests on honda/acura motors?
stanb420 5 months ago
@stanb420 That information is specific to the engine that your working on. In my experience these numbers were fairly typical but if you really want to know what shape the engine is in do a Leak Down test as it is far more accurate. A compression test is normally good for a 'quick look' at an engines general health but nothing more.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
When you loose compression you also loose vacuumm which controls the fuel injection.
RalphdaCuban 5 months ago
@RalphdaCuban It is true that many fuel injection systems rely on a vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator however if you have a compression loss vacuum loss is really not the primary concern. Thanks for your comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy very true Eric at that point vacuum is the least of your worries, by the way I enjoy your videos very much, I wish aviation training where of this quality those things put you to sleep.
RalphdaCuban 5 months ago
@RalphdaCuban And sleeping through that information could be a lot more costly... Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Amen Eric. Dang!, are you sure you're not a teacher LOL!
gregorydtatum 5 months ago
@gregorydtatum No but I play one on YouTube.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Eric - Thanks for this video! I'm going to check out the rest of your uploads. I have a 98 Saab 900 S Turbo with 94k miles and it's getting horrible mileage (15mpg). I'm not much of a car guy so I'm trying to figure out what could be wrong. Somebody suggested a compression test - that's how I found you. These videos are great!
-Eli
elinewell 5 months ago
@elinewell You might also consider looking into any check engine lights you might have and also check the turbo operation. I would also recommend posting this question to the ETCG forum on my website as there are a lot of people there that may also be able to offer suggestion.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
thanks
Jireh1230 5 months ago
Makes sense. I guess I have to stick to the "trial and error" method. Since tuning by ear has worked great for me in the past for finding that "sweet spot" for air fuel mix detonation (even though there are stock settings for timing). We folks down here have a problem with watery gas (even in premium) That water does make the perfect detonation hard to find. But hey,thanks for the quick reply. I was just hoping that there tool could be used to make tuning by ear turn into tuning by sight. Peace
gregorydtatum 5 months ago
@gregorydtatum I understand where your coming from but modern engines are engineered within an inch of their life and to do things by 'ear' can do more harm that good in the long run especially when it comes to timing the engine. As for detonation on a scale of 1-10 by the time you actually hear it you are at 7 or 8 on the scale.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
cause of the position of the piston inside. If you retard your timing toward zero your compresion increases toward the maximum amount right? So, shouldn't (if it were possible to do this test with a compression gauge) the compression gauge be able to give you an idea (while turning the distributor) of the best compression (or piston position) to set your timing at? I hope I'm explaining it like I see it in my head. Again thanks man for the reply and I'll TRY not to bother you with more stupid ?s
gregorydtatum 5 months ago
@gregorydtatum Compression is constant and has nothing to do with when the plug fires. Since the time it takes for the mixture to burn is also relatively constant the 'timing' of when you begin combustion is critical for optimum power and efficiency. I think you need to change you thinking of the relationship between compression and when the spark occurs as you are kind of getting into left field.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
@gregorydtatum Compression is constant and has nothing to do with when the plug fires. Since the time it takes for the mixture to burn is also relatively constant the 'timing' of when you begin combustion is critical for optimum power and efficiency. I think you need to change you thinking of the relationship between compression and when the spark occurs as you are kind of getting into left field.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Thanks for getting back to me so fast Eric. And I wanna go on record as saying DUH, duh, duhhh Greg. I totally forgot to take in consideration the fact the plug fires BEFORE top dead center. If not, the timing would be set to 0. But i was more in the lane of thinking that maybe the compression tester can give you an idea of how deep the stroke is and compression in the cylinder just before ignition. Then while slowly turning the distributor the pre-ignition compression changes........
gregorydtatum 5 months ago
Heck of a video man! I agree with the others that say you should be a teacher if you're not already. I just have one question. Since ignition timing is basically when the spark plug fires compared to the piston's position on the compression stroke.......I wonder, can a compression gauge be used to set OPTIMUM engine timing? I often have WEIRD questions to ask (I like to think outside the box) so forgive me in advance, think about it, and get back to me. Thanks, GREG
gregorydtatum 5 months ago
@gregorydtatum No, it's not dependent on compression but something called 'wavefront propagation' and you actually want to make the spark before the piston is all the way up so you would not be at full compression when you initiated the spark.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hello Eric,
is it important when you do the test that the car is leveled, meaning that it is not on a hill or someting like that?
Thanx
TheG10G11 5 months ago
Hello Eric,
is it important when you do the test that the car is leveled, meaning that it is not on a hill or someting like that?
Thanxx
TheG10G11 5 months ago
@TheG10G11 Not at all, the compression will be the same even on a hill.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
I get pretty good readings from a dry compression test.
Readings are really close to each other. Around 200-210 psi.
However, I still feel like the engine is losing power, especially when the car is warm, the hotter, the more power I lose.
Any ideas?
Thanks
thaik56 5 months ago
@thaik56 Hard to say really, now that you have ruled out a mechanical issue you might look for any check engine lights and fix those first, also check your tune up items and now that I think about it what you describe could be an exhaust restriction issue so perhaps drop the exhaust and take it for a drive to see if the performance comes back.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Comment removed
thaik56 5 months ago
Comment removed
thaik56 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@thaik56
I've been getting that answer too about the exhaust.
But I forgot to mentioned that when I feel the loss of power, I can hear valve noise.
In fact, when the car is hot and I'm right over the engine bay, I can hear some light tapping noise, it doesn't seem to serious, but it's really there.
I don't have any check engine light, I've done the valve adjustment few month ago right in the middle specs, and I've been getting better fuel economy ever since. Just that noise and loss power
thaik56 5 months ago
@thaik56
About the valve tapping, I can clearly hear it at around 3k rpm, that's when it's really noticeable. But it does it only when accelerating, when decelerating or maintaining speed, I can't hear it.
Thanks in advance.
thaik56 5 months ago
@thaik56 It could be a timing issue or octane issue, you might want to check the timing to see if it's in spec and also check for any slack in your timing chain or belt as this can also cause ignition timing variations.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Timing variations huh? Hmm.
That means that the timing isn't always right during the engine operation, such when revving and all?
Although I get great fuel economy?
I'll get myself a timing test light to see if timing is off.
So you believe a variation of less than a tooth can cause knocking/tapping and engine losing power?
Thank you for all.
thaik56 5 months ago
@thaik56 There are lots of things that can cause performance problems I'm just suggesting that you not rule out a mechanical issue as that is something that often gets overlooked.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
I just check the timing, the timing is off by about 1 to 1.5 cm.
I checked the gap between the mark on the crank pulley and on the engine block, a little arrow.
Considering the size of that gap, is it the belt being too loose or the timing belt off by a tooth?
Thanks
thaik56 5 months ago
Master... this video saved me a lot of money in myths and tales from the bloody monsters of mechanics. I just bought the compressor taster and did what the video say. I just have to change one damaged spark plug, instead changing 2 pistons and gasket (what the mechanic said)
JustMeNoOther 6 months ago
@JustMeNoOther That does sound like you dodged a bullet, well done. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Hi i have a 95 Eclipse GST , the turbo just stop boosting, its a 2 weeks old Ebay 16g turbo i took off the turbo and it doesn't have a lot of shaft play or smoking ,i but it sounds wired when i press the gas it doesn't give any boost at all when I'm driving ,i checked boost leaks and everything looks good. My ?? is what happened when the internal waste gate doesn't work?or Is it a blown turbo? Thanks man.
mariohdz2626 6 months ago
@mariohdz2626 That's a tough call as there are a lot of things that could cause a boost issue, it could also be an engine performance issue. To be honest I can't offer much without looking at it for myself. You might consider posting this question to my forum as there are a lot of smart people there that might know something I don't.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@mariohdz2626 If you know anything about DSM's you know not to put ebay garbage on your car!!!!!
If you don't listen, drop the ratchet and walk away now
madoggyd 5 months ago
@madoggyd okay i got it now ...thanks man...
mariohdz2626 5 months ago
@mariohdz2626 Glad you listened to my advice...I've had plenty of experience with ebay garbage over the years on my eclipse. I just finished a major build, induced by my ebay trash that i put on cause i needed a dd and was low in the wallet. Now im runnin a completely built head by dsmgraveyard = 1750. MHI evo III Big 16g. DSMlink on 95 eprom. web 272s on obx gears. tubular manifold. ported out 2g head to 1g ecimulti intake. and everything else greddy or hks.
madoggyd 5 months ago
your a great teacher. thanks for the video man!
18tastee 6 months ago
@18tastee Thank you very much for that comment I really appreciate it.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
nice to see someone so passionate about it
crudeoilsystems 6 months ago
super video. thanks budy.
jakobaagesen 6 months ago
@jakobaagesen Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Hey Eric. You are my favorite YouTube guy. I don't watch videos all that much, but I pretty much watched all your videos. You are very inspiring.
Do you know what causes brand new cars to burn oil? I had an 2000 Honda accord and an 07 wrangler that had oil burning issues since day one. I even had the accord engine rebuilt with new piston rings but the problem didn't go away. I eventually sold both cars because of it. Did I get a lemon or did the car not break in properly? I was losing about 2 q
k9driver 6 months ago
@k9driver There IS something to breaking in a new engine, it normally takes about 500 miles, you basically avoid WOT and vary your speed so that your not running at a constant RPM all the time. Sustained high speed driving will burn oil with ANY engine so if this is how you normally drive you can expect to burn more oil because of increased cylinder pressure.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
You say put the peddle to the floor to turn off injectors, does this work on most FI cars?
csbuckn 6 months ago
@csbuckn Yes it does, it also opens the throttle which is something you need to do in order to get an accurate reading for the test.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
If the tester fitting is just hand tight by twisting that rubber hose, how do you know you arent getting any leaks through the threads and that the compression number you are getting is accurate?
Amopower 6 months ago
@Amopower By no means is this an accurate test of cylinder sealing in the first place so a 'little' leakage really won't make a difference in my opinion but if you install the test lead correctly there should be little leakage as it seals with an 'o' ring.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Hi Eric, what is a good way to check for a air intake leak, besides the smoke machine
karlakatie2215 6 months ago
@karlakatie2215 See the video I did on Checking for Vacuum Leaks.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
From what i know about 2 stroke engines, those spark plugs look fouled (oily), meaning you are running too rich.
Would it be the same for regular 4 strokes?
Also, great video, really enjoyed watching. You have good communication skills, very fluent and using proper terminology.
Keep up the good work :)
thebigdille 6 months ago
@thebigdille The spark plugs in this engine are actually fine, spark plug reading takes years of practice and should be done on a hot engine, this engine was cold hence the reason they looked 'fouled' as you say.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
you sound/act just like Mike Rowe from dirty jobs lol
very good information here. I am about to do a compression test tomorrow because my car is burning oil and white smoke is coming out of my exhaust. I know a Leak Down Test is much more accurate but i don't have an air compressor at the moment so im just gonna go with a compression test. But before i do the compression test (wet and dry) on all 4 cylinders, how can i tell if the piston rings are bad? Im really hoping its just my valve seals
bomsexplosive 6 months ago
@bomsexplosive It's probably not the valve seals but as described in the video the wet test helps give evidence to the rings condition especially if it goes up significantly. You might also want to check for a head gasket problem, I cover that in the Diagnosing an Overheat Condition video.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy ok, but how high from the dry to wet compression has to be to determine a bad ring? above 10% 20% 30%? say 190(dry) 230(wet) is that bad?
bomsexplosive 6 months ago
@bomsexplosive Yes it is, it's more than 20%, it should only be around 10% and not more than 20% but keep in mind this is just a general test and really doesn't provide enough accurate information, I would recommend a leak down to confirm it.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
YOU ARE A MOST INTELLIGENT MAN!!!
inexplicable92 6 months ago
I have a chevy astro 4.3 280,000 miles 1989. Live in South FL.Have rough idle problem that appears while in DRIVE, waiting at stop lights? then when drive away, its running bad still?
It seems to be worse when the engine is at full temp in the heat of the day?? I keep picturing the heat and expansion making the IM warp enough to create a vac leak??plugs, wires rotor and cap are good, fuel/air filter are new. cleaned TBI, have re-torqued IM and TBI what do you think of this?? thanks.
jemjem1974 7 months ago
@jemjem1974 You might start with a power balance test to see if you have one or more cylinders causing the problem (I did a video on this test). I would also check for vacuum leaks as per the video that I've made on that subject. That should be a good place to start at least.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
I gave a question and would really like some help with a response I have a 00 civic ex with a d16y8 and I did the compression test yesterday and across all cylinders I got a reading of 120psi. Do you know why??? Any help?? Thanks
greddy376 7 months ago
@greddy376 Sounds normal to me. What your looking for with a compression test is consistency, if the cylinders don't vary more than 10% your good, move on.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy I have read many forums and everyone is saying they got a reading of 160psi or more so I was wondering why my numbers were soo low?CCA the numbers can be higher or lower is that right? Thanks alot <