Guillows Hawker Typhoon

[ExtraEvilPranks]

Thanks for the help

Bought a 17" mustang on Thursday and replaced the tail with really light balsa and covered it with Japanese tissue, left out all the plastic parts and most of the stringers,used baby oil on the rubber and it still didn't fly for more than 10 seconds perfectly trimmed

Ehh oh well

I'll stick to non-scale rubber powered

[MrMisterblitz]

Great flight.

[ExtraEvilPranks]

Sorry got cut off

1.50$ of quarters, thanks

[scaleflight]

I am using a 7 inch Peck prop, domestic tissue and mostly contest balsa.

For the Guillows kits, the best are the 600 and 900 series because they don't use a lot of balsa and are simple. These are also the easiest for the same reason. Peck Polymers also make better models.

Leaving the fuselage uncovered won't affect flight very much, but won't look very good.

You weight is a little high but flyable. I would suggest not painting (mine is not) and maybe rebuilding the tail with contest balsa.

[ExtraEvilPranks]

Couple quick questions

First off what prop, tissue and balsa are you using?

And is there a specific kit that is best? If not what's the easiest?

If I leave the fuselage uncovered will it affect the plane? I sanded all the parts down and only have 1 stringer in the wing and barely any wood in the tail yet I need so much clay on the nose, any I didn't paint it or add landing gear, I'm using my own prop and rubber that is 10x better than the guillows yet it weighs easily the weight of $1.50 of q

[TrueMooo]

Quick Question, how do you get the prop to rotate for that long?

Ive snapped 3 rubber bands trying to get my spitfire to be powered for more than about 10 seconds. Thanks.

PS : *Borat Voice* Typhoon Very nice!!! :D

[scaleflight]

For a longer motor run, you can:

- use Tan 2 or Tan sport rubber

- lubricate the rubber with a silicon lubricant/cleaner like Armor All

- use a longer loop of rubber. It can be at least 1.5 times the prop hook to rear peg length

- use a bigger prop, this releases energy more slowly and efficiently but can make trimming difficult

- use thinner rubber. The main secret here is too make a very light model, so that the reduced power of the thinner rubber can still propel the model

[TrueMooo]

@scaleflight Thanks for the advice :D

[aerobatic500]

Nice airplane, does the rudder have any left deflection to the left ? or does it turn with torque? thanks. just curious.

[scaleflight]

It has left deflection. The trimming is set up so that it has approximately the same turning radius in glide as at full power. I did this by offsetting the thrust line, several degrees to the right, to counteract the torque.

[mau2979]

great job man!

[AugustusLarch]

Good flight. Favorited.

[AugustusLarch]

Wow, you got a guillows kit to fly really well. It is trimmed very well. I built them when was young. I painted them with several cots of testors paint. They were in no shape to fly.

[canals22]

I took the liberty of joining a video af my Tiffy's first flight. Things are looking up thanks to the kind advice of John Cooper.

I'm working on trimming the Typhoon and building a Spit MK I.

There's an Avro Manchester winter project too...

Happy flights.

Jorge.

Brest

[scaleflight]

Jorge: Wow! That was a great video. I really like the crisp and neat finish of your model. I am very happy to see that your Tiffy is a natural flier. Did you make the landing gear removable? I am looking forward to seeing the Spitfire and Manchester.

[canals22]

@scaleflight Hello, it is an honor, that someone of your skills and experience, thinks my airplane is well done, thanks !

I bought Esaki Liteflite from Michael Woodhouse in England, that plus your advice, helped me do a decent job for a rookie. I only wish I had'nt double covered the fuselage.

The gear is removable, I saw in a book how to bend the wire and insert it into tubes glued inside the wing, is a bit spindly for safe take offs but she looks nice sitting on it.

I'm really enjoyeing this!

[igenther99]

wait is this remote controlled??

[scaleflight]

No, it is rubber powered free flight.

[igenther99]

@scaleflight wow it flys so good!! i have their a6m2-n im so excited to get it built!!

[scaleflight]

The A6M2-N (Rufe) will very likely not fly as well. This series of kits (500) are much heavier than the 900 series of the Typhoon. Also the floats on the Rufe make it more difficult to fly as well - some people leave them off, making the plane a Mitsubishi Zero. Note also, on the Typhoon, I replaced a lot of the kit wood with lighter thinner balsa and used a better propeller and rubber than what is supplied.

[Jaliya48]

Wow! Lovely aircraft!! Is this the roughly 1/32 scale balsa frame model? I am interested in getting the Stuka...

[scaleflight]

The Typhoon is about 1/28 scale. The Stuka is in a different kit series and in general is much heavy and not a really good flier. I have the Stuka, and while it does fly, it is difficult to trim and has a much shorter flight.

[Jaliya48]

@scaleflight Oh, thanks for that bit of information. The Stuka is #508.

[ib422000]

That has to be the best rubber powered fight I have ever seen. The plane looked like it wanted to fly forever!

Congratulations!

[Fractalfrog]

Fantastic flight!! How long did it take you to dial in the trim?

[scaleflight]

Thanks. The Typhoon flew well from the beginning. It took about 5 test flights to get it to this point.

[taurustbolt]

wow, great flight!

[canals22]

I published a slide show of my ongoing contruction.

Search for Typhoon Construction.

My computer won't let me post a video commentary here.

George

[scaleflight]

George:

Can you give me more details on your slide show. I can't seem to find it.

[canals22]

On the shrinking...

Thanks for the tip !

George

[liamsiviter92]

since i last posted on this video i have built my typhoon's fuselage and started the rudder. i dont know if you still have the plans but their is two front pieces to the rudder (R1 on the plans) and only one piece of all the other die-cut pieces, is this to give the rudder strength and width like a real aircraft would have and if so are these pieces glued together? i am also not sure if the side pieces of the air intake( L,M,N) are meant to be flat or at an angled slope. Thanks, Liam

[scaleflight]

You only need one R1, you definitely don't need more weight in the tail. There is an extra R1 because it is on a duplicated sheet.

For the air intake, L is flat against the fuselage side, M is perpendicular to the fuse, in the side slot of B. N is put into the bottom slots of A, B and D. L should be sanded into a wedge shape in cross-section, with the pointy side up (see the photo of the frames). It is easier to do this before gluing it to the fuselage.

[canals22]

Sorry but, how do I pre-shrink ?

Thanks,

George

[scaleflight]

First you need to make a frame.  The easiest way is cut out a square hole in a large box. Glue the tissue over the hole and then wet it and allow it to dry (and shrink). You can repeat this several times.

The shrinking is most important for the tail where, over time it can warp. If your wing is very light and flimsy, then it should get covered with pre-shrunk tissue as well.

To cover the stabilizer or rudder you just need to lay the glued frame on the piece of tissue.

[canals22]

I'm back, I finished the fuselage and rudder, I carefully sanded a bunch of wood out of the rudder, like you advised. I have collored Esaki tissue comming from England, what do you think ? I need advice on the following : Dope the frame before covering ? Painting canopy frames. Thrust line recommendations. Loctite superglue instead of white glue ? I will fly outside in grassy fields, there's a good one nearby with Nazi bunkers still there, good for a video... Thanks George Brest France

[scaleflight]

Esaki is great tissue. It can shrink a lot, so it is good to preshrink on a frame tissue for the tail & wing.

You don't need to dope the frame. I use a UHU glue stick on the frame to hold the tissue. No need to dope the tissue either.

For the canopy frame, I glue on thin strips of tissue.

For thrust, I start with 3 deg down and 3 right.

Loctite is good glue, but it is heavier that white. I use it in places where it is too hard to use white glue.

Looking forward to seeing your video.

[canals22]

Good idea, I'll do the same.

Thanks !

[canals22]

George here : how you finished the radiator exhaust, just the flat bulkhead painted black ?

I'm still at it...

Thanks

[scaleflight]

I used a black piece of tissue to cover the radiator exhaust. The advantage of the tissue is that is hides the grain of the balsa. Painting with flat black would also work well.

[stevenmaxted]

beautiful, truly beautiful. My son and I are building a couple of Guillows planes, Son an FW190 and I the Avenger (both 500 series). What thickness rubber are you using? 1/8 single loop?

[scaleflight]

I am using a 1/8 single loop, that is about 1.5 times the length of the prop hook to the rear peg. This plane is quite light (16.9 g without rubber) and if your model is much heavier you may want to use thicker rubber.

[liamsiviter92]

I've built rubber band powered planes before such as a piper and have some what experience with radio controlled planes flying an rc sopwith camel, however whilst i am mastering this aircraft i would like to build a war bird (guillows typhoon or hawker hurricane) and would like to know if these kits are recommended for radio controlled flight as i want something unique and that i have made. thanks, Liam

[scaleflight]

These kits can definitely be converted for radio control and many people have had success with this. The Typhoon would probably be the easiest to convert because it has more room in the fuselage. A little brushless motor like the EFlite 180 would likely work well. Note that you will need to strengthen the wing joint with an extra spar passing through the fuselage, into the wing roots.

[canals22]

Great flight ! I'm building one now (december 2009) I see you left out the landing gear, I was thinking of that too.

Any advice ? Better rubber, better prop?

I'd like to paint mine all silver, like the prototype, any paint you recommend ?

Thanks !

George.

France

[scaleflight]

George, I changed almost everything on the model. It has a better prop (a 7" Peck), better rubber (Tan 2) and lighter and thinner balsa (contest balsa). The comments below describe the changes in details. For paint, I use acrylic craft paint. However silver craft paint has never worked that well for me and tends to loosen the tissue. I would recommend covering with silver Risteen Microlite. This stuff is ligher than tissue and is ironed on. I have used it many time & it really works well.

[FlameYoshi1]

cool! how much and where do i get it?!

[scaleflight]

You can get this model kit for around $10 US at most local hobbies stores or online at places like Tower Hobbies. To make the plane fly like this you will need several modifications that may cost another $10. The modifications are described in the comments below.

[FlameYoshi1]

oh thanks :)

[Billyhellmojonick]

nice

[TorqueAholic]

Amazing, perfect setup / flight. I am very impressed!

[JEREMYEXPLOSION]

what do you use to trim your planes to fly like this? building the hellcat in the 500 series and plan to trim alot of wood out of the wings, rudder and stab. built one many years ago as a kid and got it to fly pretty straight, now im trying to re-learn old habits and techniques haha

[scaleflight]

The main thing is to keep it light (ie trimming the wood).. It is also good to replace any heavy wood with contest balsa. Also, I replaced the Guillows prop and rubber with a Peck-Polymers 7" prop and Tan rubber (also available from Peck Polymers). As well, I lubricated the rubber with a silicon based cleaner (Armor All) and stretched it as I wound it. I put in about 800 turns for this flight.

[thelaw277]

should i do the guillows flyboy first or the piper?

[scaleflight]

I recommend the Flyboy first. It will be a little easier to get flying properly. Its main advantage is that the wing is attached with rubber bands, which make getting it to balance easy (you can move the wing back or forth) Also, it is more crash resistant. The Javelin and Lancer also have a similar arrangement and also would be good first model choices.

[thelaw277]

it just got the guillows piper super cub 95. any reccommendations or anything?

[scaleflight]

If this is a 600 series, and it is your first plane you can built it as it is, except make the tail light. If the tail is heavy you will need a lot more weight added to the nose to balance it. The outline of the tail (the C and D pieces) can be trimmed by half, on the inside. Do this once outline is built and before the 1/16 strip balsa is added.

[thelaw277]

ps. would you reccommend this to a 13 year old like me?

[scaleflight]

I would recommend first building a kit from the 600 series, especially the Javelin and Lancer. They are easy to build and fly pretty good, even without modifications. That being said, when I was 14, I built the Trojan, from the 900 series, that despite my inexperience flew fairly well. If you really want to build a 900 series plane, I would suggest starting with the Bird Dog. It will be easier to get flying because it has a high wing.

[thelaw277]

ok cool

[scaleflight]

You can get the plane to fly without Japanese tissue or Krylon. These just make the covering stronger. In general, the 900 series kits (of which the Typhoon is from) fly fairly well when stock built. If you want it to fly like mine, you will need to trim a lot of wood from the framework and possibly replace heavy wood.

[thelaw277]

ummmmm.... overall, if i get the kit without all the japanese tissue paper and crylon, would it still fly?

[Airomaster121]

ok thank for the suggetion where do i get spray crylon and japanese tissue paper? oh and are you going to be making more videos any time soon?

[scaleflight]

You can get Krylon at arts supply stores like Michaels. I believe even the craft section of Walmart sells it. Get the low odor type is you can find it, especially if you want to spray inside. Sig Manufacturing, Peck Polymers, Great Hobbies and many other hobby shops sell Japanese tissue (also called Esaki)

[Airomaster121]

ok cool would you recomend i put the landing gear on thou and is it alright to use colored tissue paper rather than paint?

[scaleflight]

The landing gear is a matter of personal preference, If you are OK with the plane looking less scale, then leaving the gear off will save you some weight and will be one less thing to break. Colored tissue works great. If you are flying outside yo can give it a light spray with Krylon to make it water resistant and thus less likely to tear. Also, for more strength, you can use Japanese tissue (about the same weight as regular tissue) which comes in several colors, but is more translucent.

[AssassinXCV]

you paint liquid plastic onto of the tissue paper, that's what makes it harden :D

[Airomaster121]

i forgot to ask out of the two witch would you recomend elmers wood glue (its some how lighter in lequid form an its alot harder) or elmers wight glue (heavyer in liquid form and softer when dry)

[scaleflight]

I would definitely trim a lot of wood off the wings, fuselage and tail,. Also, if this is the 300 series Piper Cub, and you don't mind the wing looking less scale like, you can leave out every second wing rib. If this is the 600 series, then you don't need to do this. Both white and wood glue work well on balsa wood, but I prefer the wood glue because it seems to set faster.

[Airomaster121]

ok i im making a piper super cub by guillows thers o lot of spots i can shave wood of of the wings and fusellodge would you recomend me doing that?

[Airomaster121]

hey can you help me i cant seem to get my planes to fly even remotly ass good as yours.

[scaleflight]

The first step in getting a Guillows plane to fly well is to make it light. You can lighten a plane a lot by replacing any heavy wood with contest balsa wood. As well, most of the balsa outlines can be cut in half, in particular it is important to trim down the leading and trailing edges of the tail. You also need to be careful with the amount of paint you add. My Typhoon is colored via an ink jet printer (no paint) and only has a light coat of clear Kyrlon (acrylic) spray.

[fairtony]

that was awesome, flwe for a long time aswell

[jamesgood72]

Beautiful stuff John.

[scaleflight]

Thanks James, Hoping to hear soon how your Turbulent flies.

[scaleflight]

As a rule, you can stretch rubber 2 to 3 times its normal length. As you wind, you should come closer to the nose of the plane so that you finish the turns with the prop at the nose.

[scaleflight]

It will almost certainly break

[OLDCROW1962]

very nice flight!...why you dont use the co2 engine?.

[scaleflight]

One problem with these kits is the the tail is too heavy because there is too much balsa in it. I reduced the width of the leading and trailing edges of the rudder and stab to a couple of millimeters.

[8rassm0nkey]

that was beautifull. i built a guillow's hawker mk-1 hurricane but could not get it to fly for the life of me (couldnt get the weight and balance right) and eventually just gave up when the stock rubber band snapped. i just bought a cessna 0-IE bird-dog today and hopefully ill have more luck with a high wing plane.

[thewonderfrog]

My typhoon took 5g of weight to balance and flies beautifully also, totally stock. What rubber are you using and how many winds? I use the stock motor and 150 winds for a 10 sec flight.

[scaleflight]

I used Tan Contest rubber (from Sig) that was lubricated with Armor All. Any other silicon based lubricant will also work. I also kept the rubber stretched, 3 times its length, as I wound it. I put in 800 turns for this flight, but I have put in 1000 turns for other flights.

[tribeq1]

Wonderful ! Just lovely to watch , very skilful and so smooth compared to my rc effort at typhoon flight.

[impavitus]

ACE!!! Perfect free flight!!! Five star!

[mig15fan]

Just congrats! superb trimming job!! pretty much scale-flight than in many RC versions that flylike rocket!! Thanks!!

Al

[RUNBITSYEMMA]

Thanks for your build information. Would you suggest a different prop than the one included in the kit of your Typhoon? My plan is to fly my P-51,same kit series as the Typhoon, outdoors. Thanks again for your video.

[scaleflight]

I used a Peck-Polymers 6" (15 cm) prop instead. It should work better than the kit prop, because it is lighter and larger. A larger prop, with rubber, is always more efficient, until you hit the point that the increased torque makes it impossible to trim. Good luck with your Mustang.

[Bran247]

Great job and nice invasion stripes also!

[OLDCROW1962]

isn´t invasion stripes...its typhoon identification marks because looks like fw-190

[RUNBITSYEMMA]

Great flight. I was given a Guillow Super Cub 95. 20 inch WS. The model is "guaranteed to fly if instructions are followed". I plan build it as light as possible and use a colored tissue to cover it. Can you suggest the best way to seal the tissue without adding too much weight to the model? Would you also suggest the Tan 2 rubber for this model? I was also wondering if my model could be converted to electric non-rc free flight.

You have excellent building skills. Thanks for the video.

[scaleflight]

Thanks.

Depending on what you plan to do with the model you may not need to seal it at all (like the Typhoon). For outdoor models I recommend using Krylon clear latex spray. A light spray on your Super Cub won't add more than a few grams.

Rubber would be great on this model. Electric free flight is also definitely possible and while more complex to set up, will give you fewer trimming problems than with rubber. Depending on the final weight, a KP00 or KP01 motor should work.

[mattnsim]

being a guillows kit you must of done heaps of modifications to wood sizes/selection to get flights like that!! well done.

[ronchudy]

loved it

[maki211971]

Thanks for you prompt answer.

Plase can you let me know how you get this turns?, only with rudder?, a mix of ailerons and rudder?

I'm asking you because it was impossible for me to rech this nice turns, my model always stalls during the turns and after the turns of the rudder are finished.

Thanks again.

[scaleflight]

Thanks. I used rudder and left down aileron. The aileron stops the plane from banking too much. To stop your stall you will likely need to add down thrust. This is because the thrust makes the plane climb too much. You can do this by adding a shim on the prop bearing to make the prop shaft point down, about 10 degrees.

[earlyhemibill]

Are you using something other than the rubbr supplied in the kit? Very nice flight! Bill

[scaleflight]

Yes, the rubber in the kit is not very good. I used a piece of Tan II rubber that was 1.5 x the length of the distance from the propellor hook to the rear peg.

[maki211971]

How you reach this nice turns ?, are you using ailerons or rudder?, do you have any information about you construccion on RCG or RCU ? congratulations again.

[scaleflight]

Thanks. The main modification I made to this kit was to make the tail very light. It is made of 1/16 inch and 1/32 inch contest balsa. I also trimmed the wing ribs to half thickness. In general, I was very carefull with the weight and it came to less than 17g, without rubber. I also used Tan II rubber, that was lubricated with silicon. This allowed me to put in about 750 turns in for this flight. The rubber can actually take 1000 turns, but the plane would then hit the ceiling of the gym.

[maki211971]

Sorry, but you flight is amazing !!! how you reach this kind of flight? 5 stars !!!