I have two questions, 1) what happens to the cardboard bedding? Do they eat it up as well? Also, I am looking for a way to compost rabbit waste which includes rabbit pellets, grains that fall through the cages, hay, some straw, and moisture. Now between all my rabbits they probably pump out 30-50 pounds per week but my biggest concern is whether the worms would process the hay portion to a significant degree. The hay and bulky stuff adds volume to my manure pile :-(
@firetoy911 - If your rabbit cages are outside & raised, why not create composting bins beneath the cages? With or wi/out addedworms, all the materials you mention compost readily. Hay & straw adds carbon, which helps absorb the urine and should be added to balance the nitrogen of the urine. Wherever you set up your compost pile, you should get great results.
greaaaatttt! I did mine all wrong :( dirt, scraps and then bedding. my worms are night crawlers though. basically I am trying to raise nightcrawlers more so then compost, although with all the scraps it is nice.
Putrid meats and dairies, I understand that you said they will make a headache for you and they are hard to break down, but I don't understand why not add them anyway. Will they not end up being compost? Forgive my ignorance, I just don't quite understand why you can't compost dairies and meats. I this just for worm composting or composting in general?
@snippax - apart from the fact that they can create really foul odors (nobody wants to deal with that), they are high-nitrogen wastes so there potential for ammonia gas release. In a larger outdoor bed, in moderation, probably no issue whatsoever. In an enclosed plastic tub - BAD idea. :-)
@TheCompostGuy Thank you so much! I just have another question but it's not on worm composting if that's okay: my dad and I are going to build a wooden outdoor compost bin before I graduate from high school, I've modeled the bin with estimates of 3' feet high, 6 feet long and 3'6" wide in 3ds Max. In your opinion, should that be a large enough to be able to handle meats and dairies?
@snippax Your bin will be filled with thousands of maggots if you include meat. Not really a bad thing because maggots create compost too, it's just plain nasty IMO.
@snippax If you live in a slightly nature like area, what I do is just toss meat and dairy in a corner of my yard and the raccoons have a party with it, it's usually gone by morning.
@snippax - You can! The compost pile should be established & 'active' w/ adequate decaying plant material/carbon to balance the high nitrogen content of the meat or dairy products, which should be well buried within the pile. Properly done, there will be no odors or flies. I would not try these materials in a worm bin set up in a home, however. You are right, they are very nutrient dense materials; a shame to waste.
@tucsoniantransplant - ideal temp range would likely be 70-85 for Red Worms and Euros, perhaps somewhat higher for African Nightcrawlers and Blue Worms.
What do you do with the red worms in the winter. We used to have worm beds that were outside and we sold them before winter hit. We now live where we have winter snows hit. What do you do with them then?
@ForexStrategySecrets - Red Worms are very tolerant of cold. It isn't too difficult to protect your beds over the winter or create some protective beds where the worms can be moved. You could also move some of your worms indoors.
@jjasostewart - generally, these plastic bins are meant for indoor locations, but yeah you are absolutely right - you definitely need to be careful with enclosed plastic bins in sunny hot locales!
@bluff361 - it totally depends on the size of the bin (wide range of Rubbermaid tub sizes available). The ones in this video are actually very small - just over 4 gallons. For 1 lb of worms you'd be better off with a bin that's 8 gallons or more.
I've been letting the stuff rot and am waiting for a friend to mail me some red wigglers that should arrive this week. I just opened the bin after a week of Step 6, and it's a little moldy in there. I've looked at your website for FAQs or troubleshooting and haven't found anything about this. Will the worms be okay if I throw them in? Will they get rid of the mold, or should I start over?
@KeladryL - i recommend mixing the materials well during the aging period (should have included that info in this video). The mold won't harm the worms, but it's just generally a good idea to get everything evenly mixed.
HI, thanks for your clarity. I have a container garden. Question: I know that the red wigglers multiply (pretty fast?). You stated they"are not soil-dwelling". I take it this means you don't put any that multiply beyond the capacity of the bin, into the ground? If so, what do we do with these extra wigglers?
ofwhat do you with the extra worms that are beyond the capacity of the bin?
@rightview - you can start up new systems, give them away, leave them be (a bin will never have "too many" worms - they will self-regulate), or create some sort of outdoor system. You can put them in your garden if you create a rich environment for them. See my video on "vermicomposting trenches for some ideas.
This video started me worm composting. I have a bin like the video and I now have a Worm Factory 360. I ordered my worms from The Compost Guy twice now and have been pleased with them.
@RocketCityGardener - there seems to be more chance of house fly invasions in garage worm bins, and generally, fruit flies and fungus gnats can be common invaders. There are various ways to discourage this. During colder months you MAY need to find some way to heat the bin if temps get below freezing. Composting will slow down a lot during cooler weather
@sakopcantsitstill - if they are Canadian Nightcrawlers ("dew worms") - the big bait worms - they won't work. European Nightcrawlers and African Nightcrawlers on the other hand are composting worms as well
@Roflbrowser Why electric cars? They are a SCAM. Where do you think the car comes from? Fossil Fuel processes. Where do you think the electricity comes from? Fossil fuel processing. What do you think the batteries come from? Heavy metal processing. Electric cars are a joke.
@IdahoViewing You must be a conservativ republican.Only they don't believe in renewable energy.I charge my electric car from my wind mill and from my solar panels.
@tirpitz19 I used to consider myself a CR. Now I don't. That is great that you use renewable energy, which I am working on as hard as I can. It still does not change the fact that electric cars do as much or more harm to the environment in their manufacture as regular cars do. It also does not change the fact that 99.9% of the owners of those cars will plug into the grid to keep their cars going.
Can that change? Yes. Will it change? you bet your life it will and VERY drastically.
@IdahoViewing The nice thing about electricity is that it can be generated many ways. Yes, 50% of the electricity generated in the US currently comes from coal, but that will change. My old house had a photovoltaic array on the roof which generated more electricity than we used. An electric car, charged at that house, would be carbon neutral in operation. Manufacture is a different story, but the same principle applies: electricity can be generated renewably.
@IdahoViewing You have to start somewhere. What really needs to happen is the use of renewable energy like solar etc. And you can process goods without the use of petroleum, they've done it with vegetables for years. Ford built a model T out of soy bean back in the 30s.
Would I be able to use cardboard from cereal boxes and similar cardboard with printing as my bedding material or should it be cardboard that doesn't have printing on it like paper towel rolls and things like that?
@JmanMulletHunter - wouldn't recommend too much cardboard with colored inks on it. I generally just recycle my cereal boxes and stick with TP rolls, corrugated box cardboard and egg carton cardboard.
@BManTyler - will do just fine if you provide them with a larger, well insulated bed. Depends on your location though. We have decent winters with lots of snow, and I have no trouble keeping them alive. Keeping a fully active system is another matter altogether
@1cbjack - it was a long time ago that I set these up, so I can't remember for sure how many worms. This bin is a fair bit smaller than a lot of people seem to think (~ 17 L; ~4 gal). You probably wouldn't really need more than a half pound of worms in these, but you also shouldn't expect to compost all your food scraps in a bin that size.
I want to compost all my kitchen scraps. There's two of us, and we generate about two handfuls of scraps a day, plus 8 tablespoons of coffee grinds. How many bins and worms would I need to compost everything?
@barkulator - unfortunately, that is really difficult to answer with any degree of certainty since there are many variables to take into consideration. I suspect that a single Worm Inn would work just fine for you - perhaps with a couple pounds of worms. You can't expect to meet your goal the instant your system is set up though. The worms will need some time to reach optimal processing times. If plastic bins - perhaps a couple of them, each with a pound of worms.
I ordered 3 lbs of red wigglers in May, as well as having a 6 tray plastic worm tower, I just built a 4 tray worm tower using 1x6's, measuring 16"x24". I use the huge 5kg bale bricks of CoCo Coir and shredded newspaper,and only feed the best, blendered vegetables. My PH reads 6.8 in every level, I constantly add shredded newspaper every week as well as crushed egg shells to keep things from getting acidic and over damp,my worms pop. is increasing,when do I change out with fresh CoCo Coir?
@undergroundbasement - generally, the idea with stacking systems is that you start with one level, and then gradually add new ones once each tray gets full with mature compost material. So, by the time your 4th tray is maturing, the lowermost (1st) tray should (in theory) be basically ready to use. In other words, it's not so much that you are "changing out" coir, but rather that you are adding new coir in additional trays as older ones mature. As for pH - Red Worms don't mind somewhat acidic.
@mordsgaudimachen - bedding is hugely important! Unless you were using a material that could act as both a bedding and a food, there's a good chance you will end up in trouble. Bedding soaks up excess moisture, promotes air flow, and helps to balance the carbon to nitrogen ratio. It also provides worms with a habitat structure and a bit of a protective buffer zone.
@ichimich75 - how big are the maggots? There are other types of flies that lay eggs in composting systems, so you may be seeing something other than typical housefly maggots. Also, if the fruit/veggie waste gets foul enough you will likely attract regular maggots - starchy wastes seem to attract them as well sometimes.
I made a similer bin for a friend a few years ago. I used the same 18gal Rubbermaid tub for the bottom but I used a 14gal Rubbermaid tub for the top part. They fit together perfectly as the 14gal is the same dimentions, just 4" shorter. No need for the cartons at the bottom. We also drilled about 60-80 holes in the bottom of the 14gal to achieve more airflow for the worms/microbes. We then drilled a bunch more holes about 5"-6" up from the bottom of the 18gal to again further increase airflow.
@1xBuGzYx1 If you find red wrigglers, yes. They are originally from Europe but are naturalized in the US now, you may find some under rotting leaves. Regular earthworms like nightcrawlers won't work; they are a soil worm, you want a worm that eats veggies and fruits ie. red wrigglers
I created this bin exactly how instructed and I found it didn't drain well. Personally, I found drilling more wholes in the bottom helpful as well as drilling from the inside out.
@cochra27 - you have made some excellent points. Holes in the bottom of a worm bin can be a pain at times. If you make them too big you risk having lots of worms crawling down - if you make them too small they end up clogged. Part of the reason I am not really a bit fan of this type of bin anymore! :-)
In hindsight I also realized that the cartons weren't ideal for the job - something sturdier makes more sense for sure
@thejanitorssuccess - you are definitely better off getting your worms from a composting worm supplier. 50 worms could certainly become many more worms over time but you really won't be able to process much in the way of food waste in the meantime. You'd be better off starting with at least hundreds of red worms.
@YourGardenShow - WELL....since you asked :-) You might want to check out Red Worm Composting (wink wink). I work with an excellent US supplier who drop ships for me.
Thanks for video, very helpful. I notice in comments you say that you no longer use second bin. I've not yet set up my bin and wonder what else I might use? How much moisture do I have to be prepared to catch? And... from other 'how to' pages, it seems 2nd bin is used to migrate worms. Do you just separate the 1 bin in half, adding fresh compost material to the one side and allowing worms to migrate that way?
Lastly, is an icepick hole roughly the same diameter as 1/8"? Thanks SO much. cj
Thanks for video, very helpful. I notice in comments you say that you no longer use second bin. I've not yet set up my bin and wonder what else I might use? How much moisture do I have to be prepared to catch? And... from other 'how to' pages, it seems 2nd bin is used to migrate worms. Do you just separate the 1 bin in half, adding fresh compost material to the one side and allowing worms to migrate that way?
Lastly, is an icepick hole roughly the same diameter as 1/8"? Thanks SO much. cj
@cjinca1 - not really sure what you mean re: "what else [you] might use?"
You are right - there ARE some designs that allow worms to migrate from one bin to the next. That's not the type of bin this is - although it could be used in a similar manner if you converted the reservoir bin into a regular worm bin, and simply used the upper one as the second bin (once lower one full). With a regular tub system I would just dump and sort for harvesting.
You mention a lot about being careful not to overfeed and the issues associated with, curious as to what you have found to be an optimum feeding quantity and how you deal with the overage. I make green smoothies everyday and usually have something left over. Do you just keep filling juice containers? :)
@ceh2559 - the optimum quantity will completely depend on the system being used and a variety of other factors (number of worms, temps, oxygen etc etc). The best way to gauge it is to start slowly and see how the worms respond. Blended foods are a great way to speed things up, but make sure to mix them with absorbent bedding materials as well so you don't end up with excess moisture. In my case, I have so many different systems on the go that it's never an issue.
@youarethedeal - human urine? I definitely would NOT add that to a worm bins, especially not an enclosed plastic system. It contains salts and will most likely off-gas ammonia - two things that kill worms very quickly. If you want to put the urine to use, dilute it and add it to a regular compost heap or your garden
okay wtf this is the third video i have watched that doesnt explain where or how you recover the actual work castings....... can someone help me please
@TripleEyedGemini - with a bin like this you will likely need to do some sort of "dump and sort" operation after a few months. Dump everything out on a tarp in the sun, let it dry out for a bit, then slowly scrape material away. Worms will continue to dive down and you should be able to harvest a fair amount of material that is mostly worm-free. There are other ways to do it but this gives you the basic idea
do you have to have two bins? and do you have to fill the bin all the way up with stuff? and how many worms? and do you keepo it outside? sorry i am new with this!
@mlmlcs - I highly recommend you check out my "Getting Started" page on the Red Worm Composting website. What's funny is that I don't even LIKE using two bins together like this anymore (made this video several years ago)! So, no - you certainly don't need to use two bins. How many worms depends on the size of the system. I prefer to keep small bins like this indoors.
@mlmlcs - two bins (with lower acting as reservoir) is just one option. I actually don't even really like these types of bins anymore. I feel that the lower bin is a waste of a perfectly good bin, and prefer to keep things simple these days. Plastic bins do better indoors in my experience - if they receive even a brief period of sunlight in the summer they can overheat very easily - there are also a wide array of annoying critters that may set up shop in them outside.
i am going to attempt this for the first time. i want to know how will i know what to collect once the process is done. as in how do i use it for my garden?
Sorry if this is a silly question but I just started to learn about this. Is there any problem with using worms from my regular garden? They look red to me.
@SSanf - you definitely want to use composting worms. There are reddish garden worms, but they are almost certainly not actual Red Worms (which require a much richer habitat).
Is this system odor-less? I saw a video on youtube last week and the lady just added damp newspaper and she said it was odor-less. I live in an apartment and I'm trying to figure out my options for odor-less composing. Thank you.
@robertlewis2002 - a worm bin that is well looked after should be essentially odorless - BUT a lot of people tend to overfeed their bins and that can lead to stink.
@robertlewis2002 - No I wouldn't say that. You do need some food materials - just not nearly as much as many people seem to think. I would definitely mix some food waste in with the bedding (newsprint etc) when setting up the system. If you use only paper the worms will definitely not want to settle in.
@zamicat - if you have a choice between leaving them in shipping bags or putting them in a brand new system, I think the best bet will be putting them in the new system. Make sure your bedding has been nicely moistened beforehand (preferably with rain water or distilled water. If you have anything that's rotten - only fall leaves, material from a backyard composter etc, adding some might help the environment seem a little more like home.
Thanks for the video ... do you use bokashi at all in your worm bin? I have tons of fall leaves in my yard ... and am using a 55gal tote ... I already have some news paper and cardboard cut up but it's not enough imo ... so it will be alright to use the leaves to get a good amount of bedding in that size ... and I plan to buy 1/2 pound of red worms ... that's all I can afford. I'm putting a small amount of food in one corner now will order worms in a week. Don't know how long for arrival.
@spirittoo - bokashi is ok in small amounts, or if added to a really large system. I've added too much to a medium sized system before and the bin went "sour" on my in a big way. Bokashi is anaerobic and really acidic so you do need to be careful with it. I've added a bunch to a big outdoor worm bed with good results though.
@spirittoo - Hi again. Sorry I missed the bit about fall leaves. They are great, but need to be moistened down and preferably starting to rot. You may want to check out a recent post I wrote about leaves and yard waste (can't seem to post a link here, but check out the Red Worm Composting blog and scroll down one or two posts.
@Calbenmike - you can use whatever bin sizes you want. The ones in the video are actually VERY small (just over 4 gal I think) and I wouldn't recommend them for a decent worm composting system. Good for a small experimental bin but that's about it.
Is there any benefit to composting first rather than turning food scraps and other organic matter into the garden soil instead?......with the exception of leaves or grass clippings
Composting first is great for materials like farmyard manure since gets rid of weed seeds and pathogens. So I guess yard waste (which can contain seeds) would also be included with this, especially since they materials (thick woody plants etc) aren't a great worm food as-is. Aging wastes is ALWAYS a good idea though (even if not actually composted) - allows the microbes to colonize and material to break down
Hi spirittoo - I see some questions of yours that I did reply to but not any that I missed. Can you just ask them again or send me a directly msg? Thks
Probably not - unfortunately woody materials are not very absorbent at all, nor do they break down quickly enough. Pine also has resins which may harm the worms.
Have had my bin set up for 2 and 1/2 weeks- still waiting for worms to arrive. Noticed today when I added scraps that there's alot of mold growing. Is that bad for the worms?
That is totally normal! When I made this video (way back WHEN - haha) I totally forgot to mention the importance of mixing things around during the period while you wait for worms. Adding moisture during this time (if needed) is also a good idea. Mixing breaks up the fungal mycelia and helps to discourage further growth as a result
Another good idea that I learned on the internet is to place a piece of carpet over the top of the food waste, inside the plastic bin. The carpet should be placed inside the bin with the underside of the carpet facing up. The carpet helps to lock in moisture and helps to give the worms a nice dark and cozy atmosphere to live in. You can use a piece of old carpet or excess new carpet that you have laying around.
Grass clippings in small amounts should be ok but you can add as many fall leaves as you want since they are more of a "bedding" type of material. With an open bed you could get away with adding a lot more grass clippings (but I recommend doing so with a well established system - NOT creating a new worm bed with loads of grass clippings, unless you know what you are doing).
Thanks so much for this wonderful lesson! I have a Meyer lemon on my deck, where I can cover it with floating row cover to protect from freezing here. (Also Christmas lights for the same reason). It's OK, but the soil seemed rather dead, so I'm using the pot as a vermicompost bin - adding coffee grounds and veggie waste I run through the blender, to make it quicker to digest and less likely to rot/stink. This was very helpful - thanks again!
The lower bin is simply there to catch drainage liquid. You absolutely do not need two bins (but if you use one I'd recommend not drilling drainage holes), and in fact, I myself prefer single bins. :-)
See my "basic" bin video for instructions on setting up a single bin.
Just remember that it's not technically "real" compost tea. That should be made my soaking high quality, finished compost in aerated water. If you use the leachate liquid you might want to dilute it with water and perhaps even aerated a bit (even pouring it from one container to another over and over should make a difference)
What is the difference between grass clippings and the plants that get pulled at the end of the season? Is it because grass clippings will compact, or that they have a really high N count, or both?
@tabletopphoto - if the plant material is green it will be similar, but generally plants from gardens etc are a lot more fibrous etc so tougher to break down. Grass breaks down very easily, but in large amounts it can release ammonia so you want to mix it with other stuff (brown leaves etc) then add in moderation
Yeah for sure - only applicable for those who don't mulch back into lawn. I like bagging mine just because it provides a nice extra bit of food for my outdoor vermicomposting trenches (be sure to check out recent video if you don't know what that is)
Fungal growth is totally normal, especially before adding the worms. Just mix everything up since this will break up the fungal mycelia. Once the worms are there they should help to keep the growth in check (if you still see a lot it probably means you are overfeeding)
Compost does not drop out of the bottom - the lower bin is a drainage reservoir not a composting catching bin. Generally with a bin system like this you will continue adding to it for several months (sometimes longer) then leave it to sit for a bit before harvesting (which involves separating the worms from the material). Then you start the process all over again. If you use a flow-through system you don't have to worry about this
Well I'm happy to say my bin is now up and running and the worms seem happy. The only thing I did different was to use to clay flower pots for support and a clear bin for the bottom. I'm hoping the clear bin will discourage worms from trying to escape by allowing some light in. so far they seem very happy and are already hard at work.
Good call on the flower pot stands! Definitely a better approach. Also a good idea re: using a clear bin for the reservoir. I don't really use double bin systems like this anymore, but if I did I would definitely go with a clear bin on the bottom - good thinking!
Is it necessary to turn the compost like you would if it was outside? I'm setting my bin up and am not sure if it should be turned or if the worms will take care of everything. Tanks for a great video!
There are no hard-and-fast rules here, although it never hurts to err on the side of caution by adding a lot more bedding than food scraps. A nice thick layer of bedding on the bottom and on the top (I guess maybe 4 inches or so) and then thinner alternating layers in between. The important thing is to fill up the bin. (since there will be a lot of settling)
Unless you really mess up (haha) there should be no odor at all. I actually had a funny experience with one of my backyard composters a couple of years ago - I added way too much food waste, and the bin ended up stinking to high heaven. Out of desperation I tried adding a bunch of compost worms, and within a few days the odor was totally gone!
I always keep some bins indoors at all times, but I also have a largescale outdoor winter bed
Sure - composting worms do great in backyard composters (assuming you add to them on a regular basis). Creating an indoor bin provides you with added flexibility however - what about winter? What about when you live in an apartment? What if your compost heap is way at the back of the yard? :-)
Just some of the potential reasons for keeping an indoor worm bin.
Enjoyed the video. I have a hostel in Alaska. When dealing with the cold and bears an inside worm bend works the best for composting. I will start referring guest to your video.
Harvested my bin succesfully. One pound of worms started in May 2009. Harvested two Folgers coffee can full of castings in September. I found that my worms really like watermelon rinds. Saved as many eggs and worms, placed new clean bedding and am prepared to move them indoors once minnesota freezing weather comes. Good luck!
hey nice vid qucik question. should i turn up the compost as i see in outdoor composts to produce a faster compost rate than just sitting around for months waiting for it to rot. or will doing that disturb the worms habitat meaning the worms borrows that they create and will turning it up also disrupt the micro-organisims that have already been established.
No need for compost turning. The worms themselves provide the necessary movement within the system, and greatly help to speed up the process. Aside from disturbing the worms unnecessarily, turning material in a large system may also cause excess heating. There are no real burrows with these worms, but yeah, you want to limit the disturbance of their habitat.
So far so good... I started my first bin May 1, 2009. It is now August, I plan on harvesting in September before the weather gets too cold, try to salvage as many worms as I can and hopefully go indoors. I strated indoors, bedding became too shallow and I had a fruit fly problem. I moved outside, north side of house under the overhang of house and behind an arborvitatae shrub. The colony has laid eggs, hatched, I'll have a better idea of how many worms I have at harvest.
You should be able to leave the bin out longer that Sept (unless you live in a really cold zone) though - although it certainly never hurts to play it safe.
Can this system, as described in the video, be set up indoors?? My main concern is odor.
Is this system designed for indoors?
I am concerned that if I keep the containers outside during warm weather, when I bring them inside during cool weather, I will also bring in the BUGS!!
Absolutely - it is best suited for indoors in fact. A bin sitting outdoors is definitely a lot more prone to being invaded by other critters. But if you live in a zone that gets quite cold (ie winter), you can probably get rid of most of these by simply letting the bin sit until it gets close to the freezing mark (these worms are very tolerant of cold, unlike many of the annoying warm weather invaders).
Thanks TheCompostGuy! How many worms would you start out with with that size bin?
Werd2yermom 1 week ago
I have two questions, 1) what happens to the cardboard bedding? Do they eat it up as well? Also, I am looking for a way to compost rabbit waste which includes rabbit pellets, grains that fall through the cages, hay, some straw, and moisture. Now between all my rabbits they probably pump out 30-50 pounds per week but my biggest concern is whether the worms would process the hay portion to a significant degree. The hay and bulky stuff adds volume to my manure pile :-(
firetoy911 1 month ago
@firetoy911 - If your rabbit cages are outside & raised, why not create composting bins beneath the cages? With or wi/out addedworms, all the materials you mention compost readily. Hay & straw adds carbon, which helps absorb the urine and should be added to balance the nitrogen of the urine. Wherever you set up your compost pile, you should get great results.
Jefferdaughter 9 hours ago
What about Fish? Should I avoid that too?
Coleslaw909 1 month ago
@Coleslaw909 yes, fish is also animal meat. like 000winter000 said down there, adding meat will attract flies leading to maggots.
ginamarina101 1 month ago
excellent video and excellent supplier of red wigglers. I am very please with my vericulture I purchased from Thecompostguy.
midnightmandi 2 months ago
very cool thanks
67kpg 2 months ago
how do they bred? it needs to be dry for them to hatch?
MsTokies 3 months ago
Great video! What should we do after the worms have been in there a while, when should we put more food in?
skeeveskeeve 4 months ago
greaaaatttt! I did mine all wrong :( dirt, scraps and then bedding. my worms are night crawlers though. basically I am trying to raise nightcrawlers more so then compost, although with all the scraps it is nice.
grettagrids 4 months ago
I was thinking of doing this and putting it in my cellar....Will it stink at all ? thanks
buffaloborn71 5 months ago
How many worms in pounds would you add to a bin that size?
000Winter000 7 months ago
Really appreciate your contribution of knowledge. Thanks for your time in making this.
Naleena2u 10 months ago
Putrid meats and dairies, I understand that you said they will make a headache for you and they are hard to break down, but I don't understand why not add them anyway. Will they not end up being compost? Forgive my ignorance, I just don't quite understand why you can't compost dairies and meats. I this just for worm composting or composting in general?
snippax 10 months ago
@snippax - apart from the fact that they can create really foul odors (nobody wants to deal with that), they are high-nitrogen wastes so there potential for ammonia gas release. In a larger outdoor bed, in moderation, probably no issue whatsoever. In an enclosed plastic tub - BAD idea. :-)
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
@TheCompostGuy Thank you so much! I just have another question but it's not on worm composting if that's okay: my dad and I are going to build a wooden outdoor compost bin before I graduate from high school, I've modeled the bin with estimates of 3' feet high, 6 feet long and 3'6" wide in 3ds Max. In your opinion, should that be a large enough to be able to handle meats and dairies?
snippax 10 months ago
@snippax Your bin will be filled with thousands of maggots if you include meat. Not really a bad thing because maggots create compost too, it's just plain nasty IMO.
000Winter000 7 months ago
@snippax If you live in a slightly nature like area, what I do is just toss meat and dairy in a corner of my yard and the raccoons have a party with it, it's usually gone by morning.
earthwormjah 5 months ago
@snippax - Meat & dairy products are nitrogen rich &
Jefferdaughter 9 hours ago
@snippax - You can! The compost pile should be established & 'active' w/ adequate decaying plant material/carbon to balance the high nitrogen content of the meat or dairy products, which should be well buried within the pile. Properly done, there will be no odors or flies. I would not try these materials in a worm bin set up in a home, however. You are right, they are very nutrient dense materials; a shame to waste.
Jefferdaughter 9 hours ago
Is there a temperature range you need to keep the worms? Where do you store the worm bins?
tucsoniantransplant 10 months ago
@tucsoniantransplant - ideal temp range would likely be 70-85 for Red Worms and Euros, perhaps somewhat higher for African Nightcrawlers and Blue Worms.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
What do you do with the red worms in the winter. We used to have worm beds that were outside and we sold them before winter hit. We now live where we have winter snows hit. What do you do with them then?
ForexStrategySecrets 10 months ago
@ForexStrategySecrets - Red Worms are very tolerant of cold. It isn't too difficult to protect your beds over the winter or create some protective beds where the worms can be moved. You could also move some of your worms indoors.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
This was very informative! We are going to do this. It was a well planned and executed video.
ForexStrategySecrets 10 months ago
you should make sure to tell people if they live were it is hot to keep there bin inside or they will cook the worms :)
jjasostewart 11 months ago
@jjasostewart - generally, these plastic bins are meant for indoor locations, but yeah you are absolutely right - you definitely need to be careful with enclosed plastic bins in sunny hot locales!
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
What is the red wiggler worm capacity of this composting bin? Would it be sufficient to hold 1000 or 1 lb or worms? Thanks for your time and help.
bluff361 11 months ago
@bluff361 - it totally depends on the size of the bin (wide range of Rubbermaid tub sizes available). The ones in this video are actually very small - just over 4 gallons. For 1 lb of worms you'd be better off with a bin that's 8 gallons or more.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
I've been letting the stuff rot and am waiting for a friend to mail me some red wigglers that should arrive this week. I just opened the bin after a week of Step 6, and it's a little moldy in there. I've looked at your website for FAQs or troubleshooting and haven't found anything about this. Will the worms be okay if I throw them in? Will they get rid of the mold, or should I start over?
Thanks for posting this!
KeladryL 1 year ago
@KeladryL - i recommend mixing the materials well during the aging period (should have included that info in this video). The mold won't harm the worms, but it's just generally a good idea to get everything evenly mixed.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
This is a really boring lecture. It's hard work listening to the slow-paced drone.
guydecervens 1 year ago
HI, thanks for your clarity. I have a container garden. Question: I know that the red wigglers multiply (pretty fast?). You stated they"are not soil-dwelling". I take it this means you don't put any that multiply beyond the capacity of the bin, into the ground? If so, what do we do with these extra wigglers?
ofwhat do you with the extra worms that are beyond the capacity of the bin?
rightview 1 year ago
@rightview - you can start up new systems, give them away, leave them be (a bin will never have "too many" worms - they will self-regulate), or create some sort of outdoor system. You can put them in your garden if you create a rich environment for them. See my video on "vermicomposting trenches for some ideas.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
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KateTiclb 1 year ago
This video started me worm composting. I have a bin like the video and I now have a Worm Factory 360. I ordered my worms from The Compost Guy twice now and have been pleased with them.
Allen2045 1 year ago
Nice video. I am trying to use your directions but I will be using stackable empty plastic cat litter containers.
rmartin2819 1 year ago
@rmartin2819 - most of the same principles will apply regardless of what type of system you are using.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
Any trouble with flies or other insects in a garage setting? Also interested in how they do in the garage in colder months.
RocketCityGardener 1 year ago
@RocketCityGardener - there seems to be more chance of house fly invasions in garage worm bins, and generally, fruit flies and fungus gnats can be common invaders. There are various ways to discourage this. During colder months you MAY need to find some way to heat the bin if temps get below freezing. Composting will slow down a lot during cooler weather
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
i can only get nightcrawlers worms,will it work the same as red worms????
sakopcantsitstill 1 year ago
@sakopcantsitstill - if they are Canadian Nightcrawlers ("dew worms") - the big bait worms - they won't work. European Nightcrawlers and African Nightcrawlers on the other hand are composting worms as well
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
HOLY MOTHERFUCKER THIS IS HORRIBLE.
JUST BUY ELECTRIC CARS AND STFU.
Roflbrowser 1 year ago
@Roflbrowser Why electric cars? They are a SCAM. Where do you think the car comes from? Fossil Fuel processes. Where do you think the electricity comes from? Fossil fuel processing. What do you think the batteries come from? Heavy metal processing. Electric cars are a joke.
IdahoViewing 1 year ago 2
@IdahoViewing You must be a conservativ republican.Only they don't believe in renewable energy.I charge my electric car from my wind mill and from my solar panels.
tirpitz19 1 year ago
@tirpitz19 I used to consider myself a CR. Now I don't. That is great that you use renewable energy, which I am working on as hard as I can. It still does not change the fact that electric cars do as much or more harm to the environment in their manufacture as regular cars do. It also does not change the fact that 99.9% of the owners of those cars will plug into the grid to keep their cars going.
Can that change? Yes. Will it change? you bet your life it will and VERY drastically.
IdahoViewing 1 year ago
@IdahoViewing I'm glad i misjudged you.We need more people like you.Keep an open mind.
tirpitz19 1 year ago
@IdahoViewing The nice thing about electricity is that it can be generated many ways. Yes, 50% of the electricity generated in the US currently comes from coal, but that will change. My old house had a photovoltaic array on the roof which generated more electricity than we used. An electric car, charged at that house, would be carbon neutral in operation. Manufacture is a different story, but the same principle applies: electricity can be generated renewably.
kennydelmar 11 months ago
@IdahoViewing You have to start somewhere. What really needs to happen is the use of renewable energy like solar etc. And you can process goods without the use of petroleum, they've done it with vegetables for years. Ford built a model T out of soy bean back in the 30s.
ivaldiv2004 10 months ago
Would I be able to use cardboard from cereal boxes and similar cardboard with printing as my bedding material or should it be cardboard that doesn't have printing on it like paper towel rolls and things like that?
JmanMulletHunter 1 year ago
@JmanMulletHunter - wouldn't recommend too much cardboard with colored inks on it. I generally just recycle my cereal boxes and stick with TP rolls, corrugated box cardboard and egg carton cardboard.
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
How do they fare outdoors in winteretime?
BManTyler 1 year ago
@BManTyler - will do just fine if you provide them with a larger, well insulated bed. Depends on your location though. We have decent winters with lots of snow, and I have no trouble keeping them alive. Keeping a fully active system is another matter altogether
TheCompostGuy 10 months ago
Oh my gosh, totally Gross out city!
Armornone 1 year ago
Liked your video, very clear instructions.. How many worms did you use for this compost bin? How large are these bins?
1cbjack 1 year ago
@1cbjack - it was a long time ago that I set these up, so I can't remember for sure how many worms. This bin is a fair bit smaller than a lot of people seem to think (~ 17 L; ~4 gal). You probably wouldn't really need more than a half pound of worms in these, but you also shouldn't expect to compost all your food scraps in a bin that size.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Can we throw in cereal boxes? Will the colorful designs on them be bad for the worms?
LycheeWhore 1 year ago
@LycheeWhore - I recommend staying away from the color inks, especially glossy color, as much as possible since they can contain heavy metals.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
I want to compost all my kitchen scraps. There's two of us, and we generate about two handfuls of scraps a day, plus 8 tablespoons of coffee grinds. How many bins and worms would I need to compost everything?
barkulator 1 year ago
@barkulator - unfortunately, that is really difficult to answer with any degree of certainty since there are many variables to take into consideration. I suspect that a single Worm Inn would work just fine for you - perhaps with a couple pounds of worms. You can't expect to meet your goal the instant your system is set up though. The worms will need some time to reach optimal processing times. If plastic bins - perhaps a couple of them, each with a pound of worms.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
I ordered 3 lbs of red wigglers in May, as well as having a 6 tray plastic worm tower, I just built a 4 tray worm tower using 1x6's, measuring 16"x24". I use the huge 5kg bale bricks of CoCo Coir and shredded newspaper,and only feed the best, blendered vegetables. My PH reads 6.8 in every level, I constantly add shredded newspaper every week as well as crushed egg shells to keep things from getting acidic and over damp,my worms pop. is increasing,when do I change out with fresh CoCo Coir?
undergroundbasement 1 year ago
@undergroundbasement - generally, the idea with stacking systems is that you start with one level, and then gradually add new ones once each tray gets full with mature compost material. So, by the time your 4th tray is maturing, the lowermost (1st) tray should (in theory) be basically ready to use. In other words, it's not so much that you are "changing out" coir, but rather that you are adding new coir in additional trays as older ones mature. As for pH - Red Worms don't mind somewhat acidic.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
What if I dont use bedding? what does it do exactly?
mordsgaudimachen 1 year ago
@mordsgaudimachen - bedding is hugely important! Unless you were using a material that could act as both a bedding and a food, there's a good chance you will end up in trouble. Bedding soaks up excess moisture, promotes air flow, and helps to balance the carbon to nitrogen ratio. It also provides worms with a habitat structure and a bit of a protective buffer zone.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy cool thanks! I will have to try this. I will be sure to use bedding too!
mordsgaudimachen 1 year ago
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everybody, take a look at my compost
Messplatz 1 year ago
i actuall have maggots in my compost outside even though i have placed no meat
, just fruits and vegetable scraps, will the maggots help? i thought they only ate rotting meat,
ichimich75 1 year ago
@ichimich75 - how big are the maggots? There are other types of flies that lay eggs in composting systems, so you may be seeing something other than typical housefly maggots. Also, if the fruit/veggie waste gets foul enough you will likely attract regular maggots - starchy wastes seem to attract them as well sometimes.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
I made a similer bin for a friend a few years ago. I used the same 18gal Rubbermaid tub for the bottom but I used a 14gal Rubbermaid tub for the top part. They fit together perfectly as the 14gal is the same dimentions, just 4" shorter. No need for the cartons at the bottom. We also drilled about 60-80 holes in the bottom of the 14gal to achieve more airflow for the worms/microbes. We then drilled a bunch more holes about 5"-6" up from the bottom of the 18gal to again further increase airflow.
peppersnsmartpots 1 year ago
can i use worms found in my back yard
1xBuGzYx1 1 year ago
@1xBuGzYx1 If you find red wrigglers, yes. They are originally from Europe but are naturalized in the US now, you may find some under rotting leaves. Regular earthworms like nightcrawlers won't work; they are a soil worm, you want a worm that eats veggies and fruits ie. red wrigglers
barkulator 1 year ago
Also, found that milk cartons got a little soggy after a while.
cochra27 1 year ago
I created this bin exactly how instructed and I found it didn't drain well. Personally, I found drilling more wholes in the bottom helpful as well as drilling from the inside out.
cochra27 1 year ago
@cochra27 - you have made some excellent points. Holes in the bottom of a worm bin can be a pain at times. If you make them too big you risk having lots of worms crawling down - if you make them too small they end up clogged. Part of the reason I am not really a bit fan of this type of bin anymore! :-)
In hindsight I also realized that the cartons weren't ideal for the job - something sturdier makes more sense for sure
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
how many worms? i buy worms at the bait store they come in a container of 50 will that do or,will i have to buy several packs. THANKS.
thejanitorssuccess 1 year ago
@thejanitorssuccess - you are definitely better off getting your worms from a composting worm supplier. 50 worms could certainly become many more worms over time but you really won't be able to process much in the way of food waste in the meantime. You'd be better off starting with at least hundreds of red worms.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Thanks for a great, simple to follow explanation. Do you recommend a worm source on line? - Anna
YourGardenShow 1 year ago
@YourGardenShow - WELL....since you asked :-) You might want to check out Red Worm Composting (wink wink). I work with an excellent US supplier who drop ships for me.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
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Thanks for video, very helpful. I notice in comments you say that you no longer use second bin. I've not yet set up my bin and wonder what else I might use? How much moisture do I have to be prepared to catch? And... from other 'how to' pages, it seems 2nd bin is used to migrate worms. Do you just separate the 1 bin in half, adding fresh compost material to the one side and allowing worms to migrate that way?
Lastly, is an icepick hole roughly the same diameter as 1/8"? Thanks SO much. cj
cjinca1 1 year ago
Thanks for video, very helpful. I notice in comments you say that you no longer use second bin. I've not yet set up my bin and wonder what else I might use? How much moisture do I have to be prepared to catch? And... from other 'how to' pages, it seems 2nd bin is used to migrate worms. Do you just separate the 1 bin in half, adding fresh compost material to the one side and allowing worms to migrate that way?
Lastly, is an icepick hole roughly the same diameter as 1/8"? Thanks SO much. cj
cjinca1 1 year ago
@cjinca1 - not really sure what you mean re: "what else [you] might use?"
You are right - there ARE some designs that allow worms to migrate from one bin to the next. That's not the type of bin this is - although it could be used in a similar manner if you converted the reservoir bin into a regular worm bin, and simply used the upper one as the second bin (once lower one full). With a regular tub system I would just dump and sort for harvesting.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
You mention a lot about being careful not to overfeed and the issues associated with, curious as to what you have found to be an optimum feeding quantity and how you deal with the overage. I make green smoothies everyday and usually have something left over. Do you just keep filling juice containers? :)
ceh2559 1 year ago
@ceh2559 - the optimum quantity will completely depend on the system being used and a variety of other factors (number of worms, temps, oxygen etc etc). The best way to gauge it is to start slowly and see how the worms respond. Blended foods are a great way to speed things up, but make sure to mix them with absorbent bedding materials as well so you don't end up with excess moisture. In my case, I have so many different systems on the go that it's never an issue.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
what about urine? can i add that
youarethedeal 1 year ago
@youarethedeal - human urine? I definitely would NOT add that to a worm bins, especially not an enclosed plastic system. It contains salts and will most likely off-gas ammonia - two things that kill worms very quickly. If you want to put the urine to use, dilute it and add it to a regular compost heap or your garden
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy thx im gonna go buy some worms tomorrow and get this party started
youarethedeal 1 year ago 7
okay wtf this is the third video i have watched that doesnt explain where or how you recover the actual work castings....... can someone help me please
TripleEyedGemini 1 year ago
@TripleEyedGemini - with a bin like this you will likely need to do some sort of "dump and sort" operation after a few months. Dump everything out on a tarp in the sun, let it dry out for a bit, then slowly scrape material away. Worms will continue to dive down and you should be able to harvest a fair amount of material that is mostly worm-free. There are other ways to do it but this gives you the basic idea
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
do you have to have two bins? and do you have to fill the bin all the way up with stuff? and how many worms? and do you keepo it outside? sorry i am new with this!
mlmlcs 1 year ago
@mlmlcs - I highly recommend you check out my "Getting Started" page on the Red Worm Composting website. What's funny is that I don't even LIKE using two bins together like this anymore (made this video several years ago)! So, no - you certainly don't need to use two bins. How many worms depends on the size of the system. I prefer to keep small bins like this indoors.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@mlmlcs - two bins (with lower acting as reservoir) is just one option. I actually don't even really like these types of bins anymore. I feel that the lower bin is a waste of a perfectly good bin, and prefer to keep things simple these days. Plastic bins do better indoors in my experience - if they receive even a brief period of sunlight in the summer they can overheat very easily - there are also a wide array of annoying critters that may set up shop in them outside.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy can i put it in a shed
boyvsfish 1 year ago
Very cool - composting by making your own bins.
Cyllynify 1 year ago
This is very helpfull.Thank you
NeelsLoots 1 year ago
i am going to attempt this for the first time. i want to know how will i know what to collect once the process is done. as in how do i use it for my garden?
dippedNhunni 1 year ago
Sorry if this is a silly question but I just started to learn about this. Is there any problem with using worms from my regular garden? They look red to me.
SSanf 1 year ago
@SSanf - you definitely want to use composting worms. There are reddish garden worms, but they are almost certainly not actual Red Worms (which require a much richer habitat).
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy will your garden variety not work at all, or is it possible to use them?
hellerZauberer 1 year ago
Is this system odor-less? I saw a video on youtube last week and the lady just added damp newspaper and she said it was odor-less. I live in an apartment and I'm trying to figure out my options for odor-less composing. Thank you.
robertlewis2002 1 year ago
@robertlewis2002 - a worm bin that is well looked after should be essentially odorless - BUT a lot of people tend to overfeed their bins and that can lead to stink.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy So if all I add is damp newspaper that should be enough and I don't need the food scraps and other things?
robertlewis2002 1 year ago
@robertlewis2002 - No I wouldn't say that. You do need some food materials - just not nearly as much as many people seem to think. I would definitely mix some food waste in with the bedding (newsprint etc) when setting up the system. If you use only paper the worms will definitely not want to settle in.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy okay. Thank you so much for your help CompostGuy.
robertlewis2002 1 year ago
i have the worms already and need to make them a home NOW!
is it okay if i add the worms right away?
thanks for the great video.
zamicat 1 year ago
@zamicat - if you have a choice between leaving them in shipping bags or putting them in a brand new system, I think the best bet will be putting them in the new system. Make sure your bedding has been nicely moistened beforehand (preferably with rain water or distilled water. If you have anything that's rotten - only fall leaves, material from a backyard composter etc, adding some might help the environment seem a little more like home.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@zamicat - also, whatever you can do to help the process along will be great. Chop/blend food materials so they start to rot more quickly etc
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Thanks for the video ... do you use bokashi at all in your worm bin? I have tons of fall leaves in my yard ... and am using a 55gal tote ... I already have some news paper and cardboard cut up but it's not enough imo ... so it will be alright to use the leaves to get a good amount of bedding in that size ... and I plan to buy 1/2 pound of red worms ... that's all I can afford. I'm putting a small amount of food in one corner now will order worms in a week. Don't know how long for arrival.
spirittoo 1 year ago
@spirittoo - bokashi is ok in small amounts, or if added to a really large system. I've added too much to a medium sized system before and the bin went "sour" on my in a big way. Bokashi is anaerobic and really acidic so you do need to be careful with it. I've added a bunch to a big outdoor worm bed with good results though.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@spirittoo - Hi again. Sorry I missed the bit about fall leaves. They are great, but need to be moistened down and preferably starting to rot. You may want to check out a recent post I wrote about leaves and yard waste (can't seem to post a link here, but check out the Red Worm Composting blog and scroll down one or two posts.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
what size bins?
Calbenmike 1 year ago
@Calbenmike - you can use whatever bin sizes you want. The ones in the video are actually VERY small (just over 4 gal I think) and I wouldn't recommend them for a decent worm composting system. Good for a small experimental bin but that's about it.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
lol at the end you said "that's pretty much eeet" Lololol
zomgwtfbbqbagel 1 year ago
@zomgwtfbbqbagel Yeah, yeah - and I've been annoyed with it ever since! Thanks for the reminder - LoL
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Wow nice video.
carpetbeetle98 1 year ago
Is there any benefit to composting first rather than turning food scraps and other organic matter into the garden soil instead?......with the exception of leaves or grass clippings
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
Composting first is great for materials like farmyard manure since gets rid of weed seeds and pathogens. So I guess yard waste (which can contain seeds) would also be included with this, especially since they materials (thick woody plants etc) aren't a great worm food as-is. Aging wastes is ALWAYS a good idea though (even if not actually composted) - allows the microbes to colonize and material to break down
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy
That makes sense
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
It might be a bit of extra effort, but you could attach pvc pipes with holes in them to add extra aeration
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
I assume you mean pipes running through the system? Absolutely - I was going to do this with a garbage can system I thought up.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy I was wondering if you could address my question(s) further down ... thank you.
spirittoo 1 year ago
Hi spirittoo - I see some questions of yours that I did reply to but not any that I missed. Can you just ask them again or send me a directly msg? Thks
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy you answered most of my questions ... I was just wondering about using old dried leaves from outside for their bedding. Thank you.
spirittoo 1 year ago
would pine pellets work in place of cardboard?
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
Probably not - unfortunately woody materials are not very absorbent at all, nor do they break down quickly enough. Pine also has resins which may harm the worms.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Have had my bin set up for 2 and 1/2 weeks- still waiting for worms to arrive. Noticed today when I added scraps that there's alot of mold growing. Is that bad for the worms?
SparreyJoy 1 year ago
Hi SJ,
That is totally normal! When I made this video (way back WHEN - haha) I totally forgot to mention the importance of mixing things around during the period while you wait for worms. Adding moisture during this time (if needed) is also a good idea. Mixing breaks up the fungal mycelia and helps to discourage further growth as a result
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Another good idea that I learned on the internet is to place a piece of carpet over the top of the food waste, inside the plastic bin. The carpet should be placed inside the bin with the underside of the carpet facing up. The carpet helps to lock in moisture and helps to give the worms a nice dark and cozy atmosphere to live in. You can use a piece of old carpet or excess new carpet that you have laying around.
BEEBEE159 1 year ago
Thanks for the video. I have a quick question...Can I put grass clippings and leaves (in moderation) in my worm composter?
BEEBEE159 1 year ago
Grass clippings in small amounts should be ok but you can add as many fall leaves as you want since they are more of a "bedding" type of material. With an open bed you could get away with adding a lot more grass clippings (but I recommend doing so with a well established system - NOT creating a new worm bed with loads of grass clippings, unless you know what you are doing).
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
I do all the time. They love it all.
psion128 1 year ago
Thanks so much for this wonderful lesson! I have a Meyer lemon on my deck, where I can cover it with floating row cover to protect from freezing here. (Also Christmas lights for the same reason). It's OK, but the soil seemed rather dead, so I'm using the pot as a vermicompost bin - adding coffee grounds and veggie waste I run through the blender, to make it quicker to digest and less likely to rot/stink. This was very helpful - thanks again!
dianemie 1 year ago
Why do you need 2 bins? Could you use one instead?
alleycat101100 1 year ago
The lower bin is simply there to catch drainage liquid. You absolutely do not need two bins (but if you use one I'd recommend not drilling drainage holes), and in fact, I myself prefer single bins. :-)
See my "basic" bin video for instructions on setting up a single bin.
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Ok! Thanks so much! I think I'll start one some time this week! :)
alleycat101100 1 year ago
@alleycat101100
You could, use one bin, but the compost tea is a handy fertilizer
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
Just remember that it's not technically "real" compost tea. That should be made my soaking high quality, finished compost in aerated water. If you use the leachate liquid you might want to dilute it with water and perhaps even aerated a bit (even pouring it from one container to another over and over should make a difference)
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy
What is the difference between grass clippings and the plants that get pulled at the end of the season? Is it because grass clippings will compact, or that they have a really high N count, or both?
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
@tabletopphoto - if the plant material is green it will be similar, but generally plants from gardens etc are a lot more fibrous etc so tougher to break down. Grass breaks down very easily, but in large amounts it can release ammonia so you want to mix it with other stuff (brown leaves etc) then add in moderation
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy
I don't understand the point of bagging clippings. It is fertilizer for the lawn. So for the dead plants, just shred or chop.
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
Yeah for sure - only applicable for those who don't mulch back into lawn. I like bagging mine just because it provides a nice extra bit of food for my outdoor vermicomposting trenches (be sure to check out recent video if you don't know what that is)
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
@TheCompostGuy
I make my own compost tea by storing aquarium water in a heated and aerated holding tank. Works great :)
tabletopphoto 1 year ago
Sounds like a good approach!
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
Add a sheet of screen door screening on the bottom. That way no worms can fall through and you can put however many holes you want in the bottom.
Kabloooy 1 year ago
How many worms can you add to this bin?
Gildashard 1 year ago
Depends on the size of the system you choose to set up. This bin was actually very small - well suited for 1/4 to 1/2 lb of worms
TheCompostGuy 1 year ago
I made one but there was always some kind of white fluffy fungus on top.....I thought I did everything right...??
jihadacadien 2 years ago
Fungal growth is totally normal, especially before adding the worms. Just mix everything up since this will break up the fungal mycelia. Once the worms are there they should help to keep the growth in check (if you still see a lot it probably means you are overfeeding)
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
@TheCompostGuy I see thanks!
jihadacadien 2 years ago
gggooood video!!!!!!!!! man its soo simple thanks dude! =]
HIPfreez226 2 years ago
Thanks! K.I.S.S. is the name of the game with vermicomposting! :-)
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
Very informative, easy for me to follow, THANKS!
MCMixinBricks 2 years ago
My question is does the good compost drop out the bottom?
How long do you want to use the compost for gardening and how would you collect it?
DO you continusly add and take away from the pile or is it a 1 shot then start agtain?
mhguy77 2 years ago
Compost does not drop out of the bottom - the lower bin is a drainage reservoir not a composting catching bin. Generally with a bin system like this you will continue adding to it for several months (sometimes longer) then leave it to sit for a bit before harvesting (which involves separating the worms from the material). Then you start the process all over again. If you use a flow-through system you don't have to worry about this
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
cheers dude!
pokster1985 2 years ago
thanks so much for your helpful information i shell be making my worm bins tomorrow i'll let you know how it go's thanks heaps
excorkes 2 years ago
Well I'm happy to say my bin is now up and running and the worms seem happy. The only thing I did different was to use to clay flower pots for support and a clear bin for the bottom. I'm hoping the clear bin will discourage worms from trying to escape by allowing some light in. so far they seem very happy and are already hard at work.
jjem13 2 years ago
Good call on the flower pot stands! Definitely a better approach. Also a good idea re: using a clear bin for the reservoir. I don't really use double bin systems like this anymore, but if I did I would definitely go with a clear bin on the bottom - good thinking!
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
Is it necessary to turn the compost like you would if it was outside? I'm setting my bin up and am not sure if it should be turned or if the worms will take care of everything. Tanks for a great video!
jjem13 2 years ago
Turning every so often with a small hand fork never hurts but don't go to crazy with it. The worms should do a lot of the turning for you.
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
How thick should one make the various layers? Its hard to tell from the video.
I'm using the 10 gallon Rubbermaid Toughnecks.
Rygel 2 years ago
There are no hard-and-fast rules here, although it never hurts to err on the side of caution by adding a lot more bedding than food scraps. A nice thick layer of bedding on the bottom and on the top (I guess maybe 4 inches or so) and then thinner alternating layers in between. The important thing is to fill up the bin. (since there will be a lot of settling)
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
How much of an odor does this kind of bin put out? Where would you keep it indoors in the winter? A basement?
ActionPink17 2 years ago
Unless you really mess up (haha) there should be no odor at all. I actually had a funny experience with one of my backyard composters a couple of years ago - I added way too much food waste, and the bin ended up stinking to high heaven. Out of desperation I tried adding a bunch of compost worms, and within a few days the odor was totally gone!
I always keep some bins indoors at all times, but I also have a largescale outdoor winter bed
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
Couldn't you just throw the worms on your compost pile outside?
Why do you need to make a whole bin for them?
tunicanl 2 years ago
Sure - composting worms do great in backyard composters (assuming you add to them on a regular basis). Creating an indoor bin provides you with added flexibility however - what about winter? What about when you live in an apartment? What if your compost heap is way at the back of the yard? :-)
Just some of the potential reasons for keeping an indoor worm bin.
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
A couple of bricks might work better than milk cartons...
anonymous915 2 years ago
Yeah for sure - good idea :-)
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
Enjoyed the video. I have a hostel in Alaska. When dealing with the cold and bears an inside worm bend works the best for composting. I will start referring guest to your video.
hostelgirdwood 2 years ago
Harvested my bin succesfully. One pound of worms started in May 2009. Harvested two Folgers coffee can full of castings in September. I found that my worms really like watermelon rinds. Saved as many eggs and worms, placed new clean bedding and am prepared to move them indoors once minnesota freezing weather comes. Good luck!
sandworm3 2 years ago
hey nice vid qucik question. should i turn up the compost as i see in outdoor composts to produce a faster compost rate than just sitting around for months waiting for it to rot. or will doing that disturb the worms habitat meaning the worms borrows that they create and will turning it up also disrupt the micro-organisims that have already been established.
duecemachina 2 years ago
No need for compost turning. The worms themselves provide the necessary movement within the system, and greatly help to speed up the process. Aside from disturbing the worms unnecessarily, turning material in a large system may also cause excess heating. There are no real burrows with these worms, but yeah, you want to limit the disturbance of their habitat.
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
So far so good... I started my first bin May 1, 2009. It is now August, I plan on harvesting in September before the weather gets too cold, try to salvage as many worms as I can and hopefully go indoors. I strated indoors, bedding became too shallow and I had a fruit fly problem. I moved outside, north side of house under the overhang of house and behind an arborvitatae shrub. The colony has laid eggs, hatched, I'll have a better idea of how many worms I have at harvest.
sandworm3 2 years ago 2
That's great. Congrats!
You should be able to leave the bin out longer that Sept (unless you live in a really cold zone) though - although it certainly never hurts to play it safe.
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago
Can this system, as described in the video, be set up indoors?? My main concern is odor.
Is this system designed for indoors?
I am concerned that if I keep the containers outside during warm weather, when I bring them inside during cool weather, I will also bring in the BUGS!!
turdface0522 2 years ago
Absolutely - it is best suited for indoors in fact. A bin sitting outdoors is definitely a lot more prone to being invaded by other critters. But if you live in a zone that gets quite cold (ie winter), you can probably get rid of most of these by simply letting the bin sit until it gets close to the freezing mark (these worms are very tolerant of cold, unlike many of the annoying warm weather invaders).
TheCompostGuy 2 years ago