Added: 3 years ago
From: nvmoose2
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  • NVMoose... this is totally awesome!!! Great work on this, it looks very professionally done!

    Question for you Sir... do you have a video or any information on your Venturi Burner? I've fallen in love with your design, and I'd like to make one myself. Any assistance from you would be greatly appreciated!

  • Just run full power to the switch as normal. Then cut the ground wire and run a jumper wire from the ground wire to the dimmer switch and back to the ground.That wire is then controlled by the dimmer thus controlling the outlet it is attached to. Cut the outlet jumpers between the two screws to seperate each side of the outlet. Run jumper wires to the other side of the outlet to keep it hot or add another dimmer in that ground wire also to control each individually. Be careful and good luck.

  • how did you wire the switch and outlet?

  • I used the cut out top from one keg as a faults bottom for my mash tun keggle. I purchased a 1/16" carbide bit and dilled hundred of holes in it. I made a SS Black to close off the neck. Nice burner system. The forced air blower is a great idea for a more efficient flame. More BTUs with less gas! Again, nice ideas!

  • Hi brother, louis in ill qurstion how did you attach the 3/4 coupling to the tube just cut the keg today and want to use all the parts as you did . I have a miller 15 gal keg my fill tube is different.

  • I am almost there, but have run into two issues. One, how did you get the ball/spring valve out? Two, how did you connect the copper to the keg tube? I tried to silver solder the two together, but that didn't work out so well.

  • Inspiring... I wont save much $ b/c I have to buy the tools, but if I make a couple of burners I will see the savings...Plus it just looks... Is there a reason that the gas is hooked up to the 90 T and not just straight through the T w/ the fan hooked up to the 90 end. It seems that you wouldn't lose functionality and you wouldnt have to solder that 1/2" 90 inside the 1" T. Since its propane, I thought I would ask before I blew something up. I start tonight on mine...Any thoughts?

  • Cool indeed! Every person who has seen this in person has thought is was awsome! The curved 1/2" pipe was used to force the natural gas away from the opposite end of the 90' T by sticking far enough through to complete the tenturi. Thus creating a slight vacuum drawing air in, instead of natural gas just going out any ol which way. The hose lays flat once installed also. Either way should work I just had to pick the most difficult. Good luck!! I've brewed 80 gallons so far this year. Hick!

  • Great burner. You are a genius!

    How do you light the burner, and what is the gas flow rate (wide open)?

  • I have not checked that gas flow rate. Darn! I guess when brew day commeth I seem to forget about the gas I'm usin and just brew good beer (five 10 gallon batches with this rig). I promise to do it next time. I'm hoping this setup may not use as much gas as it appears. Here's why. At maximum flame efficency my gas valve is only open apx 1/2 to 2/3 turn for about 30 min. Then it is on very low. I light the flame with a long reach lighter. A remote starter did not work due to a fast gas flow.

  • I'm just starting and building my all grain brewing rig.

    What about the gas hose? I see you use a 3/8" ID hose. Do you know if a pneumatic air hose would work? Air hoses are high pressure and they are quite affordable and have the threaded ends already attached.

  • One fellow on You Tube was using a garden hose in his prototype stage, then switched over to the gas hose. I believe natural gas pressure (after the meter) is only about 7psi so we are talking more about safety and avoiding leaks and melted hoses. I used a 3/4" garden hose initially to test the gas flow rate. But it did not improve over the 3/8" gas hose. Gas hoses also have a very nice quick disconnect on one end. As crazy as all this looks, I sure don't want to blow my house up. LOL :)

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