awesome, thanks very much, i'm doing this same motor soon for my 89 notchback.......a question for ya though, i want to stay manual transmission, and i'm not sure what i can put in there to handle the torque, even the tremec's don't seem to handle what i'm going to put out in torque....600ish i'm thinking
I just figure that the new 5.0 is still 302 cubic inches just like the old. The only difference that I can see is h/c/i and rpm range, so if I can match flow rates or exceed I should make the same or more. The only thing I can see lacking is variable cam timing, resulting in a narrower HP and TQ band
Not so... A 5.0 can have a smaller bore with longer stroke. There are many shapes a gallon of water can fit into. The flow rates of the heads will determine carb jet size or injector latch time. The variable cam timing is done with a hydraulic phaser. If you have a closed loop OBD II system it could throw off all of the computer settings. You will need to re-program the EPROM for the new engine settings. It's a complex project you're taking on. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply. I'm just trying to get 400 hp with h/c/I. (and exhaust)
And have never built an engine before.... But read A LOT about it if that counts for anything. I don't understand cam measurements and how much of a difference that it will make on the valve end or how to calculate that.
The cam is critical. Slope, lift, duration, and base circle are critical to performance. If you have an idea how you are going to build the motor you can call Comp Cams and they can grind a cam to fit what you need.
I know this is a little off topic but have you ever used a piston notching tool? I'm trying to install a head that some people would say is too big for a 302. And I don't want to disassemble my short block for aftermarket pistons.....
Thanks for the comment. I try to make the content interesting, educational and relevant. I don't want to make a video just for the sake of making a video....I try to have a reason or subject. Rock on my friend!
The extra or slightly higher ratio for the intake will give me a little extra valve opening without using a more radical cam. The cam I am using is right on the edge of being a full race cam and if I went any further it would not be able to idle well. The 1.71 rocker arm will give me just a little more intake opening to get more air and fuel in and still idle around 900 RPM. Great question! Thanks for watching,
@CoolCarsHotGuitars thanks for the reply. What block are you using? I want to use a roller cam in a non-roller block...are the linkbar style roller lifters what I need?
Sorry for the late reply. I am using a stock cast iron block. If you use roller lifters they must be linkbar or dog bone style. They must be held in place so the roller does not turn around.
Thanks for watching...and wating. I should have these done fairly quick. I want to get this motor on the dyno soon so I can put it in the frame. I'd like to be driving this by next summer.
I am getting a 1973 Dodge Charger SE this summer, it has a 400 2barrel but it was orginaly a 318..... and ii dont know exactly everything so this helps thanks
The idea of dropping the cam in first is so you can lay the motor on the back and drop it stright in. It helps avoid scoring the cam bearings. I would recommend doing that. After installing hundreds of cams and knowing how to feel the lobs rest before the next cam journal goes in is something I am used to. There is a cam install tool that allows you to hold the cam straight while you put it in, but I have never had a problem and am extremely cautious putting it in like I did. Great Comment!
With a 130 screen to dial in the motor it should run flawless. I am going to install a PC under the dash with a touch screen that will allow me to make adjustments on the road. Between the sound system I have planned and the live PC is will be a techno-cobra for sure!
Thanks for the advice. I really enjoy your vids, keep em comin they're very inspirational.
vbstangin 4 weeks ago
I'm just trying to help. I never considered myself to be very insperational but I appreciate your comments. Good luck my friend.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 4 weeks ago
awesome, thanks very much, i'm doing this same motor soon for my 89 notchback.......a question for ya though, i want to stay manual transmission, and i'm not sure what i can put in there to handle the torque, even the tremec's don't seem to handle what i'm going to put out in torque....600ish i'm thinking
mmateri 1 month ago
The TKO600 is a pretty robust. I'd give their tech support a call and see where they guide you. Thanks for watching.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 1 month ago
I just figure that the new 5.0 is still 302 cubic inches just like the old. The only difference that I can see is h/c/i and rpm range, so if I can match flow rates or exceed I should make the same or more. The only thing I can see lacking is variable cam timing, resulting in a narrower HP and TQ band
vbstangin 1 month ago
Not so... A 5.0 can have a smaller bore with longer stroke. There are many shapes a gallon of water can fit into. The flow rates of the heads will determine carb jet size or injector latch time. The variable cam timing is done with a hydraulic phaser. If you have a closed loop OBD II system it could throw off all of the computer settings. You will need to re-program the EPROM for the new engine settings. It's a complex project you're taking on. Good luck.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 1 month ago
Thanks for the reply. I'm just trying to get 400 hp with h/c/I. (and exhaust)
And have never built an engine before.... But read A LOT about it if that counts for anything. I don't understand cam measurements and how much of a difference that it will make on the valve end or how to calculate that.
vbstangin 1 month ago
The cam is critical. Slope, lift, duration, and base circle are critical to performance. If you have an idea how you are going to build the motor you can call Comp Cams and they can grind a cam to fit what you need.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 1 month ago
I know this is a little off topic but have you ever used a piston notching tool? I'm trying to install a head that some people would say is too big for a 302. And I don't want to disassemble my short block for aftermarket pistons.....
vbstangin 1 month ago
Tough one and a bit risky. Make sure you have enough material and you won't create a hot spot...the piston will melt for sure.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 1 month ago
dude you're so cool!
MrNilsanderson 3 months ago in playlist More videos from CoolCarsHotGuitars
That is quite the compliment.....I don't think I'm that cool but thanks.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 3 months ago
what kinda exhaust are you going to run and why ?????
mason3571000 4 months ago
I will be fabricating custom headers with a 3.5" collector and 427 Cobra sidepipes. Pretty standard exhaust system for this car.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 4 months ago
@CoolCarsHotGuitars great videos !!!!! please keep them coming better than wacthing hores power tv cant wait to see run !!!
mason3571000 4 months ago
Thanks for the comment. I try to make the content interesting, educational and relevant. I don't want to make a video just for the sake of making a video....I try to have a reason or subject. Rock on my friend!
CoolCarsHotGuitars 4 months ago
This video is great.
Why the different ratio for the int/exh rocker arms?
brakedd 4 months ago
The extra or slightly higher ratio for the intake will give me a little extra valve opening without using a more radical cam. The cam I am using is right on the edge of being a full race cam and if I went any further it would not be able to idle well. The 1.71 rocker arm will give me just a little more intake opening to get more air and fuel in and still idle around 900 RPM. Great question! Thanks for watching,
CoolCarsHotGuitars 4 months ago
@CoolCarsHotGuitars thanks for the reply. What block are you using? I want to use a roller cam in a non-roller block...are the linkbar style roller lifters what I need?
brakedd 4 months ago
Sorry for the late reply. I am using a stock cast iron block. If you use roller lifters they must be linkbar or dog bone style. They must be held in place so the roller does not turn around.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 4 months ago
@CoolCarsHotGuitars No apologies needed, thanks for your time and help. Looking forward to seeing more of this motor pal.
brakedd 4 months ago
Thank you very much :-)
Gilliatt83 5 months ago
Thank you for taking time to watch!
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
Looking good. can't wait!
Looptydude 5 months ago
great to be back. its even greater to see your new vid
jlawlar1 5 months ago
cool vid . i had to get a new screen name, some how i delete my last one
jlawlar1 5 months ago
Great to see you back J
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
great video again! was well worth the wait :)
Jerrevdd1989 5 months ago
Thanks for watching...and wating. I should have these done fairly quick. I want to get this motor on the dyno soon so I can put it in the frame. I'd like to be driving this by next summer.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
im.learning alot from ur videos thanks for taking your time and uploading videos
joshmarauder 5 months ago
Thank you for taking time to watch. I'm trying to make them as informational as possible. If you have any questions, please ask.
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
this is awesome...i enjoyed it :)
willem01 5 months ago
Thanks for taking time to watch..............Peter
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
I am getting a 1973 Dodge Charger SE this summer, it has a 400 2barrel but it was orginaly a 318..... and ii dont know exactly everything so this helps thanks
touchsmart0 5 months ago
Glad it helps....there will probably be a couple more until I'm finished with it....good luck with your Charger!
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
i have always heard that it is better to drop the cam in first before the crank is this true or is there a reason you just didnt do it on this motor?
cower16 5 months ago
The idea of dropping the cam in first is so you can lay the motor on the back and drop it stright in. It helps avoid scoring the cam bearings. I would recommend doing that. After installing hundreds of cams and knowing how to feel the lobs rest before the next cam journal goes in is something I am used to. There is a cam install tool that allows you to hold the cam straight while you put it in, but I have never had a problem and am extremely cautious putting it in like I did. Great Comment!
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
Vary nice, can't wait to hear it run with that fuel injection installed!
Rasd4Metta 5 months ago
With a 130 screen to dial in the motor it should run flawless. I am going to install a PC under the dash with a touch screen that will allow me to make adjustments on the road. Between the sound system I have planned and the live PC is will be a techno-cobra for sure!
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago
Looks awesome Pete! ~Todd
Siafu66 5 months ago
Thanks Todd....a respectable comment from a verbally skilled litigator.....................Peter
CoolCarsHotGuitars 5 months ago