good video. the only thing i didnt see was pushing the caliper back in, did you use a c clamp and the old pad? Also do you have to take off the brake fluid cap before pushing the caliper back in? This video could be used for front brakes as well, yes?
Awesome thank you, I had the jist of it, just wanted o see what was behind that rotor after I knocked it out. great tip on the top slider, I was on of them pissing around with that bolt once on a ford, it's a real bastard! that tip will be extremely useful. thanks again, great video!
This video is great. I have a 2003 1500HD..and although the hub is different..the brake change is the same. This saved me a lot of work...especially the tip about the caliper top slide bolt. How about a video on doing the front discs?
@nacho210210 Hi David, Honestly it is not on the books at this time, but the parking brake shoes are not too difficult. The proper procedure is to remove the rear axle shafts to get the parking brake shoes off. But it is possible with a little prying. (You can pry the parking brake shoe straight up over the axle)
One more thing. Those caliper bolts took a 4 foot breaker bar for me to remove. Did you guys edit that out? Just wondered....it'd be good to mention those babies are loctited on really, really well.
After the 4 footer to break the bolts free, I still used a 16" bar about 3/4 of the way out. I've never experienced any bolt removal like it. All of them were this way...it was a yellow colored adhesive they used @#$#@!!!!
Thanks for the video, mines a 2004 Chev 2500HD. I pulled the caliper with the guide pins, and didn't know your trick. I also couldn't get the rotor off. I'm going to pound on it more in the morning when I can see and maybe put a little PB on it tonight. I really liked the video because I wondered if I needed to take the hub off to get the rotor off and that would have been a big nitemare, so thanks, again...very, very grateful for the video. Dan
@waste9000 Thanks for the question, Your vehicle has "Lug Nuts" which need to be loosened before taking the wheel off. Once the lugnuts are loosened, jack up and support the vehicle, once it's up in the air, continue removing the lug nuts. Once those are off, the wheel and tire assembly will come off. Good Luck!
Couple of things worth mentioning. You guys did not put any anti sqeal compound on the pads or break grease on the caliper bolts. You also did change out the break fluid. Just sayin'.
great video. appreciated how you fast forwarded thru some of the sections like ratcheting a bolt. I ready to geterdone! I also like the trick with the leaf spring bolt, and using the old pad with the c clamp....seems like common sense but it's not.
I heard the sound of a calibrated elbow @ 8:36. Was a good video, but please inform people of the extras that you didnt do.. like checking the guide pins for corrosion, re-greasing them, because you got them out already and should really put some blue or purple loctite on caliper brackets. go ahead and spend the extra 10 bucks and get some new pad clips if the ones you have are corroded. GM's pad clips suck and have for years. Great source for early wear that shows itself as false bad guide pin
@ADPTY, thank you for the reply. idk man if i knew it was a factory thing i would've opted to order it. But mine is a LT trim and from what i've seen they put 2 drums in the rear of tahoes, saburbans and the yukons.
1 more question bro, is there any true advantage to drums?
@Tungsten23 There are many options from the factory when a vehicle is originally purchased, I believe one of them is disc or drum rear brakes, yours must have left the factory with rear drum. Unfortunately there is no way to convert it over to rear disc. We do have a video on youtube of replacing some rear drum brakes (although on a Ford, they are all similar). Thanks for the comment
That rubber boot needs to go up over the lip on that T-55 bolt/pin. I put new boots on when I did mine and the boot didn't go over the lip on the pin as easily as yours did, but you used the old boots. There are aftermarket hex head bolts that will replace those T-55's. Mine were corroded and I had to take my whole caliper off and put it in a vise to get my bolts out. I twisted a 3/8 inch drive impact socket getting those bolts out. You made this look easier than what I experienced.
@TheDurnans Thanks for the comment, Yes sometimes I wonder why GM used those Torx-Bolts in there, In the past I have also replaced the torx bolts with standard hex bolts, and have seen a lot of other people do the same. Glad you got it fixed!
Thanks for your help..
valencia20990 1 month ago
is this the same for a 02,1500
hp11208 1 month ago
good video. the only thing i didnt see was pushing the caliper back in, did you use a c clamp and the old pad? Also do you have to take off the brake fluid cap before pushing the caliper back in? This video could be used for front brakes as well, yes?
azzman71 4 months ago
@azzman71 at about 8:45 in the video you can see the setup we used to push the caliper pistons back in, we did use a c-clamp and old brake pad.
APDTY 4 months ago
would it be the same for a 2008 2500hd?
saskgreen13thman 4 months ago
the rotors are toast
Galley415 5 months ago
Great tip on taking off caliper ... very informative unlike other video's that are just plugging their company and show nothing.
ruhernan1 6 months ago
Awesome thank you, I had the jist of it, just wanted o see what was behind that rotor after I knocked it out. great tip on the top slider, I was on of them pissing around with that bolt once on a ford, it's a real bastard! that tip will be extremely useful. thanks again, great video!
hughheckler 7 months ago
This video is great. I have a 2003 1500HD..and although the hub is different..the brake change is the same. This saved me a lot of work...especially the tip about the caliper top slide bolt. How about a video on doing the front discs?
BMWer50 9 months ago
why would someone drive their vehicle that long, causing their rotor to look like that?
reddog9401 10 months ago
@nacho210210 Hi David, Honestly it is not on the books at this time, but the parking brake shoes are not too difficult. The proper procedure is to remove the rear axle shafts to get the parking brake shoes off. But it is possible with a little prying. (You can pry the parking brake shoe straight up over the axle)
APDTY 11 months ago
@APDTY I am going to have to do this also. I'd like to see how it's done. I'm sure going to try to gitter done without removing the axles.
bdubgmc 10 months ago
One more thing. Those caliper bolts took a 4 foot breaker bar for me to remove. Did you guys edit that out? Just wondered....it'd be good to mention those babies are loctited on really, really well.
fallguy100000 11 months ago
@fallguy100000
After the 4 footer to break the bolts free, I still used a 16" bar about 3/4 of the way out. I've never experienced any bolt removal like it. All of them were this way...it was a yellow colored adhesive they used @#$#@!!!!
fallguy100000 11 months ago
Thanks for the video, mines a 2004 Chev 2500HD. I pulled the caliper with the guide pins, and didn't know your trick. I also couldn't get the rotor off. I'm going to pound on it more in the morning when I can see and maybe put a little PB on it tonight. I really liked the video because I wondered if I needed to take the hub off to get the rotor off and that would have been a big nitemare, so thanks, again...very, very grateful for the video. Dan
fallguy100000 11 months ago
How did you get the tire off?
waste9000 1 year ago
@waste9000 Thanks for the question, Your vehicle has "Lug Nuts" which need to be loosened before taking the wheel off. Once the lugnuts are loosened, jack up and support the vehicle, once it's up in the air, continue removing the lug nuts. Once those are off, the wheel and tire assembly will come off. Good Luck!
APDTY 1 year ago
Couple of things worth mentioning. You guys did not put any anti sqeal compound on the pads or break grease on the caliper bolts. You also did change out the break fluid. Just sayin'.
Dano1945 1 year ago
great video. appreciated how you fast forwarded thru some of the sections like ratcheting a bolt. I ready to geterdone! I also like the trick with the leaf spring bolt, and using the old pad with the c clamp....seems like common sense but it's not.
uradzfisher 1 year ago
Just the answer I was looking for. Thanks
miranda2003ful 1 year ago
I heard the sound of a calibrated elbow @ 8:36. Was a good video, but please inform people of the extras that you didnt do.. like checking the guide pins for corrosion, re-greasing them, because you got them out already and should really put some blue or purple loctite on caliper brackets. go ahead and spend the extra 10 bucks and get some new pad clips if the ones you have are corroded. GM's pad clips suck and have for years. Great source for early wear that shows itself as false bad guide pin
jabird73 1 year ago
@ADPTY, thank you for the reply. idk man if i knew it was a factory thing i would've opted to order it. But mine is a LT trim and from what i've seen they put 2 drums in the rear of tahoes, saburbans and the yukons.
1 more question bro, is there any true advantage to drums?
Tungsten23 1 year ago
@Tungsten23 There are only 2 minor advantages that I can think of when it comes to Drum Brakes,,
1) The brake shoes last longer than rear brake pads.
2) Parts are usually less expensive for Drum Brakes.
Other than that, I personally prefer disc brakes to drums. Thanks!
APDTY 1 year ago
1 question. why does my 09 silverado only have drums in the back and discs up front?
got anything for rear discs?
Tungsten23 1 year ago
@Tungsten23 There are many options from the factory when a vehicle is originally purchased, I believe one of them is disc or drum rear brakes, yours must have left the factory with rear drum. Unfortunately there is no way to convert it over to rear disc. We do have a video on youtube of replacing some rear drum brakes (although on a Ford, they are all similar). Thanks for the comment
APDTY 1 year ago
@APDTY you can convert it to disc. its a 550$ kit. Cant remember the name of the manufacturer. I looked into it for mine.
jabird73 1 year ago
That rubber boot needs to go up over the lip on that T-55 bolt/pin. I put new boots on when I did mine and the boot didn't go over the lip on the pin as easily as yours did, but you used the old boots. There are aftermarket hex head bolts that will replace those T-55's. Mine were corroded and I had to take my whole caliper off and put it in a vise to get my bolts out. I twisted a 3/8 inch drive impact socket getting those bolts out. You made this look easier than what I experienced.
TheDurnans 1 year ago
@TheDurnans Thanks for the comment, Yes sometimes I wonder why GM used those Torx-Bolts in there, In the past I have also replaced the torx bolts with standard hex bolts, and have seen a lot of other people do the same. Glad you got it fixed!
APDTY 1 year ago
Great video, Thanks!
mrexecutive1 1 year ago