This is my first time viewing this, I had no idea of the size of your engine until you came into frame to make adjustments. It looks like your piston arm tie points are not far enough apart and when the piston arms come down they push the axels of the gears apart and the gears jump a tooth or two and then timing gets offset. Excellent work!
I think the copper felt colder because a Stirling engine turns into a heat pump when you put work into it. There's one guy on here with a video where he does this, and there's frost on one side of the displacer.
I guess that the engine worked, if the copper part got colder. You made an airconditioning compressor. With some pressure in it; it will work even better. LOL.
Exceptionally good work...
I'm following you with great anticipation.
My $.02 would be,
1. Larger centerbolts on all gears. (almost as large as the plungers)
2. Counterweights.
3. Some sort of bearings on all moving / rotating parts.
4. Get rid of the gearsystem all together and use a timing belt.
Rate of expansion. The aluminium piston is expanding. Sounds like you need to increase the gap by at least .001. And maybe loose some mass of the piston. Any lube on the piston?
I don't think this was the problem. I belive that the problem began when it got off by one tooth. After the second, it sieced. But you could be right about the expanding piston. :)
Even with the issues, That is one impressive piece of work. I can not help but wonder if simply eliminating those two gears and running it with just the gear on the permenant magnet motor would not be more effecient. Just set up the diffuser rod like a normal connecting rod.
Maybe it is me that is missing something. I do not know much about Sterling engines except that they facinate me. I was just thinking of connecting the rod to only one gear kind of like replicating an automotive piston and crank. Eliminating any possible moving part would increase effeciency and increase durability.
I can see wht you mean. But if you sheck the video, you can see that you need to have the center of the piston free for the displacer piston rod. That is why you have the dual gears connecting the power piston. :)
Its hard to tell without seeing it for myself, but it looks like the arms, when they straighten out are causing a "jerk" on the bolts that connect them to the gears. If the stroke was changed so that the arms never straighten out, it may run smoother. Cant really change the stroke on it at this point I guess, but maybe if you could put a spring on the piston shaft or the arm joints to absorb the jerk it may help with the vibrations. Just my $.02, if its worth that much :)
well did you check the timeing prior to run? jumpping teeth is interesting. The torque from the electric and the gear turning outward might be it, try reversing the polarity on the perm motor.
Hey when in doubt reverse polarity it always worked for Scottie.
Darn, ran pretty good enough to prove mechanism works fine... Now all you need to do is beef up those shoulder bolts. Maybe just a heat fit pins with no threads, just a thrust washer with a heavy washer held to pin by allen head screw threaded into end of pins. Would require reboreing gears though...
This is my first time viewing this, I had no idea of the size of your engine until you came into frame to make adjustments. It looks like your piston arm tie points are not far enough apart and when the piston arms come down they push the axels of the gears apart and the gears jump a tooth or two and then timing gets offset. Excellent work!
1foxtrot70 6 months ago
coollllllllllllllllll
SWINGREGORY 2 years ago
I think the copper felt colder because a Stirling engine turns into a heat pump when you put work into it. There's one guy on here with a video where he does this, and there's frost on one side of the displacer.
randommagnum 2 years ago
Bring it to the shop
I love to find and fix
We need to beef up the bearing points
and but bearings in the spots that need them
IT WILL RUN !!
Just need to work out the bugs!
Great Jopb
mytickets 2 years ago
I guess that the engine worked, if the copper part got colder. You made an airconditioning compressor. With some pressure in it; it will work even better. LOL.
Exceptionally good work...
I'm following you with great anticipation.
My $.02 would be,
1. Larger centerbolts on all gears. (almost as large as the plungers)
2. Counterweights.
3. Some sort of bearings on all moving / rotating parts.
4. Get rid of the gearsystem all together and use a timing belt.
Thx for a great vid.
ricande 2 years ago
Rate of expansion. The aluminium piston is expanding. Sounds like you need to increase the gap by at least .001. And maybe loose some mass of the piston. Any lube on the piston?
CarbideTip 2 years ago
I don't think this was the problem. I belive that the problem began when it got off by one tooth. After the second, it sieced. But you could be right about the expanding piston. :)
I guess time will show. ;)
ricande 2 years ago
Even with the issues, That is one impressive piece of work. I can not help but wonder if simply eliminating those two gears and running it with just the gear on the permenant magnet motor would not be more effecient. Just set up the diffuser rod like a normal connecting rod.
Nice Job.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
How would you design that? Sounds complicated. You can't design a rhombic stirling, without the two top gears. Or am i missing something?
ricande 2 years ago
Maybe it is me that is missing something. I do not know much about Sterling engines except that they facinate me. I was just thinking of connecting the rod to only one gear kind of like replicating an automotive piston and crank. Eliminating any possible moving part would increase effeciency and increase durability.
Larry
HHOPWR 2 years ago
I can see wht you mean. But if you sheck the video, you can see that you need to have the center of the piston free for the displacer piston rod. That is why you have the dual gears connecting the power piston. :)
Stirling engines fascinates me too. :P
ricande 2 years ago
Its hard to tell without seeing it for myself, but it looks like the arms, when they straighten out are causing a "jerk" on the bolts that connect them to the gears. If the stroke was changed so that the arms never straighten out, it may run smoother. Cant really change the stroke on it at this point I guess, but maybe if you could put a spring on the piston shaft or the arm joints to absorb the jerk it may help with the vibrations. Just my $.02, if its worth that much :)
pat1huey 2 years ago
well did you check the timeing prior to run? jumpping teeth is interesting. The torque from the electric and the gear turning outward might be it, try reversing the polarity on the perm motor.
Hey when in doubt reverse polarity it always worked for Scottie.
d3adp001 2 years ago
u need to balance it some how or put some balancer shafts in
u could have a top plate aswell to stop the gears moving apart
RainstormGB 2 years ago
Darn, ran pretty good enough to prove mechanism works fine... Now all you need to do is beef up those shoulder bolts. Maybe just a heat fit pins with no threads, just a thrust washer with a heavy washer held to pin by allen head screw threaded into end of pins. Would require reboreing gears though...
llewgnal 2 years ago
Thanks for the update!
marthale7 2 years ago