Added: 2 years ago
From: rolandsh1000
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  • I am asking the same question MarbleMad had...

    Does anyone know if this works long term? I did it to 2 chips on an mks-30 and it worked.. I am trying to sell it. Would it be a good idea to strip the other 4? I would hate to sell it and have another chip crap out a week later, but if this fix causes other problems down the road I wouldn't be comfy with that either. I am an electronics tech so I'm not really worried about damaging anything good on removal.

  • Did this ruin the glass you soaked the chips in?

  • Didn't work for me. My pins fell off. The coating help keep the pins on the chip.

  • Thanks for sharing. Time to fix mine and get my daft punk on!

  • HELL YES!! This method worked for me - I soaked the voice chip (80017A 40A) in acetone for 3 days removing the resin-edges of the chip on the 2nd day.

    Don't remove resin that doesn't come off by itself on the component side - soak it some more. I couldn't remove the resin between the legs of the 3 IC's though soaking for 2 more days - but it still worked.

    I let the chip dry for 2 days and soldered it back in. I didn't remove the harder resin from the printed resistors as someone suggested.

  • I got the chip out pretty easily by using this inexpensive tool: Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump With Heater 30W.

    I vacuumed each pin 2 or 3 times from the back of the PCB - only heating each pin a few seconds every time. I then used a small screwdriver to wiggle the pins gently about to loosen them (still from the back of the PCB).

    After that I very, very gently wiggled the chip itself until it practically fell out. Don't use any force anywhere in this process.

  • How do you know what's wrong with these chips?

    Do they overheat during use?

    The plastic package covering the chips is not the best heat contactor.

    Do these chips have defects in silicon that becomes worse and worse

    during use?

    I think someone will need a very expensive piece of equipment

    and a good reference datasheet to determine what's wrong with these components...

    I hate disposable electronics...

  • Hi!

    My 106 seems to have a problem with the filter resonans after I had new voice chips. I can't seem to get all six voices to track even with keyboard tracking when the filter is self-osclating. If I set it to poly 2 mode and only use one voice at the time i am able to play simi tones with it, but when it is in poly 1 mode and I play more then one voice, the voices doesn't tune up together. Do you know how I could fix this?

  • D'you think it's worth giving all your chips a chemical peel as a preventative measure or do you lean more towards the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", philosophy?

  • Hi.

    I'm from Spain (sorry about my english).

    I've got a Roland GR-700 guitar synth and a Roland MKS-30, both with the 80017a chips.

    I had changed 5 chips in the past, for clones or second hand Roland chips.

    3 of the Roland's second hand also failed after some months.

    But now, I've taken these 5 chips and I've done what the video explains.

    What i got is 5 perfect chips (after hours and hours of testing them).

    This is amazing (I had paid $60 for a clone)

    THANKS.

  • Thanks for the video. That's great. What did you find over the long haul? Still working? Any more insight you have would be great.

  • @f115Recs

    Most of the ones I've done have sat in a dry container for the last several months. Recently, I installed 6 of them in the HS-60 and ran them for 2 days straight with no issues.

    Also, I have 6 installed in my Junior 106 (which does sit in the non-turned-on state most of the time) and they are all still working perfectly.

    I'd say if you can rescue the chip and it stays good for a few days after, it's probably good for months if not years.

  • @rolandsh1000

    Awesome. Thank you. I'm going to try it out. Here's hoping it's years :)

  • This is great! I managed to recover 2 faulty chips in my Juno using this method. Thank you!

  • This is great! I managed to recover 2 faulty chips in my Juno. Thank you!

  • Having a tough time finding that video. Nothing I plug into the search engine

    seems to pull up the Prophet-600 repair job. So I have the keyboard all opened and the keys detached but can't figure out how to unscrew the keybed PCB. I could be a dumb dumb but don't see where the screws are. Will continue to look for the repair video. Perhaps there's a clue in there but I imagine it's not a real mystery. Any other specifics as to where the actual screws to the keybed are, would be welcomed!!

  • Hey, just bought a juno 106 and one of my keys is striking inconsistently. I think it might be a key contact and not the sound card because it's only one key. Is there any way you can point me in the right direction of where the key contacts are....under the keys I imagine, and if that's the case how do I take off the key to get in there to clean it. BTW the technique you described in your video fixed a sound card that started acting up in my HS60. Thanks!

  • @Leololazone

    Hi - there's a video on Youtube that I saw a few days ago that shows how to remove and clean out the keyboard PCB for the Prophet-600 (I just got one of those!). It's VERY similar to the 106/hs60: basically, open up the synth, unscrew the keyboard chassis from underneath the synth, unplug the two connectors, pull out the keyboard, turn it upside down, unscrew the keybed PCB, and diagnose the problem. take care with the rubber domes!

    glad to hear your hs60 is happy again!!!

  • How is everyone getting the chips out? Spent a few hours with a soldering iron, wick and a sucking gun but it was impossible to get all the solder out of the joints. I ended up using a torch but it wasn't pretty and I'm not sure if I damaged the board (it works but I haven't resoldering the cleaned chip yet).

  • Soaked for two days and the resin came off pretty easily. I used the exacto to clean the last bits from between the pins on the IC and the chip itself but I did not mess with the resistors. Soldered it back into the board and the note still hangs. It was a 4NA.

    I'm wondering if I didn't clean it well enough or if it's the chip, or if I pulled the wrong chip! When the note hangs in a cycle and I go back around when I hit the stuck key it displays "2" on the LCD so I pulled that one...

  • "DO NOT SCRATCH BLACK PATCHES"

    Atourbillon, if still watching, what happens when the patches get nicked and exposes the whitish layer underneath? I did this in a few places.

  • I just got around to attempting to fix a fuzzy chip on my Juno-106 today after having it like that for six years. I'll let you know what happens. I'd love for this to work and add a comment accordingly so that people will believe this works. You deserve credit for this one for taking the solution and making it easy to find on the internet.

  • Well, I was scraping the resin off tonight and a pin broke off. So now I have to abandon this project and just buy a new chip, I suppose. Thank you very much for this info, anyway.

  • if you're talking about the pins that go down into the circuit board, I've read around the web that others have been able to reattach or improvise another pin.

    save that chip and give it a try! good luck!

  • Just wanted to let you know that I did not give up yet. I did save the chip and continued to soak it in the acetone for a few more days, and successfully got most of the resin off of it. Now, hopefully I can find information on improvising new pins so I can go on with the project. Until then, courage.

  • Comment removed

  • Thanks for the great info. I found a great looking keyboard with a faulty chip. I quickly identified the chip and repaired the keyboard within three days.The keyboard sounds as good as it looks . This is the greatest way to salvage a wonderful vintage synth.

  • NERD lol jkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjk­jkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjkjjkjkj­kjkjkjkj kjkkjkjkjkjkjjkjkjkjkjjkjkjkjk­jkjk

  • ??? :)

  • All is Well!! Thanks for the fantastic video Roaldnsh1000!!!

    Summary: 1. One Chip gone and the others with tons of static. 2. Busted two chips desoldering(novice me)

     3. Ordered three V2 chips from Belgium. 4. Acetoned the four chips from my 106 5. Re-installed three V2 and four of the orig chips.... Voilah everything is great.... and have 1 chip to spare.

    **** If you r a soldering novice please read my earlier posts ***

  • Lost my patience trying to pull the chips. Had a local electronics guy do it for me. Chips are now soaking! Is there a consensus regarding coating the chips when finished? I see mixed reviews about silicone.

  • I got the same opinion and not being an electronic engineer I hesitate to give a definitive answer... but as much time as i have spent building computer systems and hobbying around stuff... I've haven't really seen any microchips coated by any protection at all sitting in mother boards...

    and considering the v2 chips that i have bought don't have any... i would say go without.

  • Continued.... Desoldering (For Us Novice)

    another hint I learned the hard way on the remaining chips is when you think you've got all the solder out wiggle the chip body gently and watch the pins on the bottom... if they all move pretty freely in the board holes then your ready to pull the chip out(again gently)... if not keep desoldering until all of them do freely move when you wiggle.

  • thx again 4 the invaluable info.

    Just a recommendation 4 those of us novice desolderers.... Please make sure u comb the web & watch a few good videos on desoldering & really practice on some junk...I watched a bad video and paid the price with the 1st 2 of the 6 chips.

    I made the mistake on my first 2 chips of not correctly desoldering & i broke some pins off of the VCF chip trying 2 pull it out. I had bad form with the vacuum...

  • i tried this on a 106 my bandmate got for $45 with a very very quiet #4 voice chip. took longer than as advertised for the coating to dissolve (soaked for about 6 days), but i got it all off. put the chip back, mounted the circuit board, etc. and it worked!

    for a little while. i left it on for a while, then went back to play it, and it sounded just as busted as it did before. it was worth trying though. time to save up for a new chip!

  • so that was last night. today i ran the 106 in test mode and it turns out that it is actually a different voice chip which is broken now. so this did work!

  • When I created this video, K/Modeless Factory had sent me ~25 "tested bad" chips for this experiment.

    Here's the results after de-encapsulating all those chips:

    - 13 repaired

    - 4 always worked (I left them running for days but they never failed in my HS-60)

    - 8 never made sound & this technique didn't fix them.

    On those last 8, the IR3109 filter chip got extremely hot to touch. So I think that failure mode is possibly a bad IC - if your 80017a gets really hot, it might not be repairable.

  • I just tried this on a failing chip and it seems to be working very well now!

    To those interested, it took nearly three days in the acetone to really loosen the resin for my chip.

    Thanks for the excellent video tutorial! You saved me a bunch of money!

  • How are the chips performing after 6 months? Have you had any more issues, or are they all still going strong? Thanks for posting, its inspired me to give my Juno some TLC after 24 years of fun! The service manual is available online, so anyone with access to a CRO, can do a proper line up to get all the 6 voices lined up correctly, and make the old beast sound like new!.

  • I've been firing up the HS-60 with these same chips every now and then for the past several weeks. Each time I've turned it on and played, all voices sound similar and fine.

    I'm convinced that this solution works and others seem to be, too: I've seen several sellers on ebay selling either "cleaned" standalone chips or Juno's that have had all chips stripped and cleaned.

    All good stuff: fewer dead Juno-106's in the world!

  • So is the silicone necessary or is it okay to leave them coating free?

  • glad it worked for you!

    the jury is still out on the silicone coating - some have tried it, others have warned that some silicones might be conductive.

    I haven't tried it - hopefully other people will report back with their long-term results!

  • 100% pure silicone rubber (sealant) is non-conductive. I've used it in high voltage circuits for TVs. The bad chips that I cleaned didn't have a black silicone coating inside but the ones that were good (I cleaned off the coating anyway) all had a thin layer of black silicone. Either Roland discovered the coating problem and solved it by using silicone under the coating or the company that actually made the chips took a shortcut and didn't apply the silicone layer before the external coating.

  • I bought a Juno on Ebay and it was cheap maybe too cheap. So I get it and its making all the crazy sounds. So I think about returning it then I remember seeing this video. So I figured that Chip 1 and 6 and the culprits. I decide to try this. I just soldered them back on an it works fine. So crazy that this works saved me so much money. I also added a toothpick to the arsenal to get the resin from in-between the prongs to make sure there are no connections. Awesome man.

  • This is an amazing fix will be trying this on my faulty juno voice tonight!! Thanks so much for putting up this tut greatly appreciated. I actually bought a replica chip about 6months ago and still havent got round to fitting it as was concerned about calibration problems. How did you find removing the actual chips was it tricky did you use a solder sucker?? Also can you possibly tell me how you got it into "voice number mode" on the dispay. I can't remember how to do it?!

  • removing the chips is doable but not fun at all. the PCB's have plated-thru holes, which makes it necessary to remove just about ALL the solder.

    the voice number mode...hold down 'Key Transpose' and Poly 1 buttons while powering up. Then press Poly1 and Poly2 simultaneously and you should be in the mode. you'll know it by, everytime you press a key, you'll see the voice number (1-6) in the LED display.

    report back on how your fix goes!!!

  • should I leave the chips in there for 48 hours? just to be safe?

    or no?

  • I don't see a problem with doing that. in subsequent chips that I've repaired, I usually just visually check them after 24hrs of soaking.

    if they look like they need more, I leave them in longer, checking again every 12hrs after that.

    good luck and report back, letting us know if your 106 got fixed!

  • when the blade scrapes the ceramic, I grind my teeth. LOL it reminds me of those little square Andeas brand mint chocolates for some reason.

    this comment is compleatly irrelavant but still I DO have a Juno 106 that needs help

    but I am afraid to do this to mine.

    THANKS FOR THE POST!

    5 out of 5!

  • so you just take the resin coating off with that chemical solution, and that's it? no need to repair the chips inside? is it that simple?

  • in general, yes that's it.

    the caveat, of course, is that it may not work. but most of the ones I've done seem to fix these chips and if you read the comments, a lot of other folks are finding that it fixes their chips, too.

    so ymm, but it certainly can't hurt to try it!

  • The coating IS the problem. Apparently, it semi-shorts out the circuitry which is precision tuned with laser trimmed resistors. I've successfully repaired 12 chips by CAREFULLY cleaning all of the resin off the circuitry; especialy the 10 laser trimmed resistors (dark rectangular patches) where the resin tends to stick in the tiny laser cuts that tune the circuit. I wish I could post a link to an image of one of the chips that I repaird. The good chips had a thin layer of black silicone inside.

  • Thanks for the great updates atourbillion!

    Any tips on removing the coating from the laser trimmed resistors? acetone-infused sponge? acetone wash with toothbrush?

  • I used an Xacto knife and magnifying glass (lupe) to CAREFULLY clean the coating from the laser cuts in the resistors. I didn't dig the blade into the cuts; just scraped the blade over them. Some of the chips had to be soaked for 24 hours, cleaned the coating that came off easily, and then soaked for another 24 hours. The acetone only seems to affect the coating; not the bakelite that the actual ICs are made of or the green coating on the chip which is actually a circuit board.

  • Comment removed

  • I just tried this technique on a faulty 80017a chip in my Roland GR-700 and now it works beautifully. All problems solved. Glad I found this video. Thanks a lot.

  • Over one week of the 106 being constantly on and the chips all sound like new! I'm going to put a thin coat of clear silicone on one of them to make sure that it doesn't affect the circuit. The silicone is just to make sure that there isn't any chance that any changes in humidity will affect the circuit.

  • I put a thin coat of clear silicone rubber on the component side (green) of one of the chips, let it dry, and then left it in the Juno for a day to bake. No problems so I coated the remaining chips last night and will reinstall them tonight and make the adjustments as described in the service manual. EVERY JUNO 106 OWNER SHOULD NOW ABOUT THIS FIX!!!!!

  • What's the reason for the silicone?

  • To prevent humitity from affecting the 10 laser trimmed printed resistors. Probably not necessary but silicone won't turn conductive like the original coating did.

  • Avoid using silicone, some brands i have used do conduct and affect electronics.

  • I think the word is getting out about this technique, which is great for the DIY community.

    also some professional synthtechs seem to be using it. and I think I just noticed the first use of it on a juno-106 being sold on ebay.

  • I have pulled 3 MC5334a chips and soaked and cleaned them although there is another blck jelly like substance covering the main components ?

    What is this any Idea? and can I or should i remove that aswell ?

  • That is probably a layer of silicone rubber which were on the the good 80017A chips that I decoated. The ones that didn't have the silicone under the coating were bad until I cleaned them.

  • Pics of the Laser trimmed resistors in the images folder of my red928 site called WholeChip.jpg and LaserCuts.jpg. I can't post the URL so you'll have to type it in the browser's address bar.

  • I will pull the silcone off and see what happens

  • Why did you pull he MC5334a chips? The six 80017A chips are what will cause random static and random stuck notes. When mine were sticking, the sound was very quiet. It wasn't like holding the foot pedal down.

  • Us Test Mode to determine which 80017A chip is bad. Power the Juno up with the KEY-TRANSPOSE button pressed. Now press Poly1 and Poly2 together so that both buttons are lit up. That puts the voice chips in rotary mode so that each time you press a key, one chip will be activated after another. The display will show which chip 1-6 is activated. 1=IC13, 2=IC11, 3=IC9, 4=IC7, 5=IC5, 6=IC3. Lots 41C and 42B are known to have problems which also happen to be the ones that were bad in my units.

  • the MC5334a`s for no good and I thught cleaning them up might fix them .

    the silicone stuff doesn`t come off to easily and there looks like some veryfine wires in there to. so I don`t think it`s going to work.

  • good typing

  • Hopefully this opens up your ability to comment again? Let me know otherwise!

  • Hi John, two things:

    1. I checked out Youtube's help and they said that some users were reporting that the comments were messed up sometimes. Maybe you got caught in that mess?

    2. Per Youtube's instructions on blocking, I went to your user page and checked blocking status. You weren't blocked, but I went and first 'Blocked' you, then 'Unblocked' you. Maybe that'll clear it up?

    Awfully sorry about this!!!

  • sweet news I have 4 Juno 106 and was just starting to pull the bad chips hopefully they all will be reborn

  • good luck

    after you try to fix them, please report back and let us know how it went!

  • 4 days with the 106 on constantly, testing it several times a day, and it sounds great! If it continues to work perfectly by this weekend, then I'm going to put a thin coat of silicone on one of the chips and then test it again for a few days before I coat the others.

  • Great info! I just decoated six chips, 3 working and 3 with sticking notes, and ended up with 6 working chips. the chips that were working had a thin layer of silicone rubber covering the components to protect from the coating that they figured out would become conductive or capacitive

    DO NOT SCRATCH THE BLACK PATCHES ON THE CHIPS! They are precision laser trimmed (one or two tiny 1mm black lines partially across them) resistors. Note that I soldered IC sockets so I could plug in the chips.

  • The uncoated chips have been running in the Juno for three days now and sound great! Make sure that the printed resistors (black patches) are clean. I used my finger nail to scrape off the remaining coating. I removed the coating by soaking them for 24 hours, removing what came off easily, and then soaking them again for a few hours at a time until they were clean. A pickle jar works great for soaking them!

  • The resin coating tends to stick to the tiny (1mm) long laser cuts in the printed resistors on the chip so make sure that they are clean. They are coated with a thin plastic coating (lime green) and the laser cuts go through the plastic coating and through the printed carbon which forms the precision resitors. DON'T SCRATCH THEM but make sure that the laser cuts are clean. My cleaned chips sound perfect even without adjustment! I'll put a thin coat of silicone on the chips this weekend.

  • EXCELLENT information. I purchased two repro chips for my Juno, and unfortunately just snapped the old ones off as I figured they would make good keychains.

    However, I have a friend (locally) with 4(?) dead/dying chips, and am going to recommend trying this out before we buy any repros.

    Thankyou for sharing!

  • Wow, you blinded me with science! Awesome experiment!

  • Thanks for posting this! I will try it out soon. Though I do have one question. One of my chips (#4) is currently a lot louder than the rest. This came on suddenly. Could this technique fix a loud chip? Or have any of the chips you fixed had that issue? Thanks -E

  • Can't guarantee this will fix any particular problem, as the way these chips fail is really variable. Some of the chips I've fixed have been overly loud (possibly a VCA failure?), as part of a combination of that plus other things.

    Before pulling that chip, you might see if other weird things start happening over the next few days/weeks. Then it might be worth the effort to try the fix.

    Best of luck, and report back if you do try this.

    Thanks!

  • 54A. 2 out of 2 repaired. Though I accidentally snagged a jumper off of one, and now it resonates wildly. Will ramcur the only remaining one I have, and dnaab the rest. :D Turns out 5534 was working.

  • Comment removed

  • Will this procedure help the MC5334a as well?

    Where can I get broken unstripped 800017as?

  • I don't know. If whatever's causing the 80017a's to fail (metal migration?) is similar in a failed 5534, then this may work. If you have an already dead 5534, then it can't hurt to try this.

    Second, to get the dead 80017a chips, I relied upon the generosity of members of the Analogue Heaven mailing list. You might ask there, or post a request on Vintage Synth Explorer or Harmony Central or even craigslist. I promised that I wouldn't sell any that were sold to me. Sorry, but good luck!

  • Thanks! I'm gonna try sourcing used chips since I can't really afford 6 D'nabbs in one go.

    I will be trying out acetone on mc5534 today.

  • this is very dangerous.. the aceton will remain and come loose over time in your synth.. will kill your faders... don't do it.

  • Hmmm...I can't comment definitively on this, but I'ved used acetone to remove flux from PCBs for years and never experienced any long-term issues. That's on boards with mounted pots, too. As far as I know, that's a pretty standard process.

    And I have to guess that the residual acetone, if any, would evaporate at such a low gas density over time that it shouldn't alter the faders on the synth. The faders are on different boards centimeters away.

  • well, at least leave a to dry a few weeks in the sun. Although acetone evaporates quickly, it also goes thru plastic and remains there. Better safe than sorry!. Do know that this will and can not save all broken chips, some simply have broken ic's embedded due to crappy manufacturing those days. If only it were that simple.

  • I'm currently testing this on four chips. I've had seemingly success with one so far, one was not successful. I'll post the part numbers here Monday.

  • Terrific! Do post back. I've been logging the 'before' and 'after' behavior of the chips - maybe there's a correlation between the failure mode it exhibits when encapsulated and whether or not the de-encapsulation "fixes" the chip.

    And even if this repair only works on half the chips that people try, that's a positive outcome.

  • Both chips I had success with are 49As which I've run for 4 hours without any problems. I have a 46A which didn't seem

    to respond to the fix.

  • Thanks for the update.

    I've been tracking some lot #'s also. After de-encapsulation:

    41B = VCA still cuts out

    41C = 1 repaired

    43A = 1 repaired

    44A = 1 repaired

    45A = 1 repaired

    4NA = 1 didn't work; 2 repaired

    55A = 1 repaired (but self-osc res runs flat)

    I still have others that I haven't tested yet.

  • Update: got back from a week-long business trip this Wed. Turned the HS-60 back on to continue the always-on testing of the 5 de-encapsulated chips.

    Checking today, all are working well. 4 of the chips behave identically, & seem to be holding the calibration well. One of them has slightly different freq & resonance response (self-osc pitch runs flat), but it doesn't squeal/crack/pop like it did before resin removal.

    Next step: recheck calibration parameters. Stay tuned!

  • This is great stuff. I will try this on two chips I have...

  • some update: I've now tested 11 more failed chips that I got from K/Modeless:

    2 never made sound before or after the resin removal;

    1 worked for a few hours after removal then stopped;

    2 I didn't remove the resin because they never failed even after hours of ON time;

    1 had removed resin but VCA still cut out;

    the remaining 5 I have removed resin, reinstalled in the HS60, recalibrated per service manual, and have been running great for 3 days of continuous ON.

    more to come!!!

  • Ho . i forgot , dont throw these chips in the garbage ,,,, in a near future they will be very welcomed , there is one ir3109 ( jupiter synth ) and two ba662 ( tb303 and xoxbox ) , , , in think those chips are getting pretty rare and we will be very glad to buy them on ebay to restore or diy some cool things .

  • hi ! this is ramcur ( nicotinetech on youtube ) ,,, after this done , try a heatgun on the solder to melt them back , some time the fault is bad ( cold ) solder , sometime you need to redo traces ,,, good luck sometime it dont work at all !

  • hi ramcur! again thanks for originating this simple rescue technique.

    I might try the heatgun, but I'm presently trying to see how far I can get with just the acetone removal.

  • Excellent work Kerry!

    Chris Strellis here. It looks like that acetone gives those filter chips an ace tone! Geddit?

  • :)

    actually, when I was doing some pre-Youtube Googling that someone else might have tried this, any search including Roland and acetone turned up tons and tons of Ace Tone references!

  • awesome video

  • great work

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