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From: squarefrog
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  • Just followed your video & website guide, made it super easy and idiot proof! Would be stuck if it wasn't for your guide... Thanks!

  • oh man, thank you for helping me remember this stuff =] I sorta forgot how to develope my film but thanks to you I remember again lol

  • This video was retarded. It didn't show us shit. I wanted to see you turn film into a picture. All you did was mix chemicals.

  • @CainmosniMirrored You're obviously blind it's called "How to Develop Film"

  • How many times can you reuse the chemicals?

  • one Q, is this method applicable to all type of b/w negatives regardless brands & iso rating ?

  • I understand that in a dark room, it's...*ahem* dark...but when you're doing this process, it's completely blind? I always thought, and it's probably wrong, that you could have the red lamps and that would not damage the film...so you could at least see what you're doing? If that's not the case, could you at least use like...glow in the dark stickers to mark things so you don't fumble around and grab the wrong tool/chemical?

  • @300Z31 the only part u have to do blind is the film unrolling and loading.

  • @isuckatstarcraft96 Yes, that makes sense. I didn't know that the tanks were light sealed. That's pretty cool. So realistically, if I wanted to build a home darkroom, it would only have to large enough to allow me to stand or sit and put the film on the roll and into the tanks. Sounds like a plan.

  • Great informative video in my college we did film development 2 years ago and watched this to refresh my memory, as in university we are doing it again.

    To be honest, nothing about development is really hard, its just time consuming. But there again so is all darkroom stuff. Easy enough, but very time consuming

    Although i would say leave the tap on, with our develop room we had a mixer tap, so we set the temp with the hot and cold and left it running through. So that chemicals arent warming up

  • does this work with color films?

  • I noted that you don't throw away the chemicals, that means that you can use them for developing various rolls? If that it's true, how many times could you use the same chemicals? Thanks in advance.

  • so its just tempature,times,and measurements?...is there anyway to mess up and destroy your negatives..(i know taking the back off your camera will,but i was wanting to know can it be done by using the chemicals wrong?

  • @KeithWasHere1 it's as simple as that! The only real way you can destroy your negs is to get the order mixed up. Never put your film into fixer before developer as you will literally wash away your images. Just be methodical and you're films will come out perfect every time. The only time critical process is Developer. Stop and Fix can be longer times without any effect.

    Further to my other post - stop chemical is more or less optional. You can rinse your film instead of using stop chemical.

  • say you dont want to make prints you just want the negatives to stop exposing? do you have to use all 4 chemicals or can you just use the developer and then the stop bath? or do you have to use all 4 to achieve a properly developed negative?

  • @KeithWasHere1 you have to use 4. Developer - develops the film, stop - stops the developing process, fixer - removes any unexposed silver from the film so you can view it in light. Wetting agent stops your film drying with ugly white water marks from washing in hard water.

  • @ neonaction your fucking stupid, if you don't like us then fuck off because photography is bigger then anything you will ever possibly ever do. Its our passion, so don't hate.

  • I was watching this hoping to see how you transfer the film image into the final image. can anyone tell me how thats done

  • Ahh He Squeegee'd his film with his fingers! D: i would be too afraid to scratch my film, using a sponge is better(:

  • i like ur music XD

  • @neonaction

    Photography is simply capturing the world as we see it. It is natures art, we simply share it.

  • @neonaction idiot

  • Awe inspiring music for film and visual media availabe at my channel

  • im confused no dark room and how do u get it onto the paper, im very interested in this

  • @iiMrOrangeii the only part of the process in which you need a dark room, is when you load the film into the tank and the spool =)

  • yeah great, nice looking black pots im superjealous .........

    but you forgot to actually make a fucking a picture

    where is the fucking picture ?

    anyone can fill pots with water, i can do that shit all day in my dishwasher

  • @mikesomething He's here to show you the development process, not here to show you pretty pictures.

  • How do you place your film in the container?

  • song?

  • (sigh)

    That takes me back! I have a tank just like that!

  • I like the music, what is it?

  • we have to invert the containers several times because the images are inverted!

  • maybe i missed something, but how do you get the negs to the actualy paper picture?

  • @vistaway3008 that is done in another process

  • @vistaway3008 You put the negative in an enlarger. It's basically a projector that projects the negative onto a piece of paper with a layer of similar photo-reactive chemistry to film. The paper is then dipped in its own progression of developer, stop bath, and fixer in trays.

  • @vistaway3008 That's a whole separate process of it's own. I guess it's trickier even.

  • this is probably a pretty retarded question, but if you shoot on colour film, is it possible to print in black and white and vice versa? now that i write it, it really seems stupid. hmm but any answers appreciated

  • hey consereve water dude

  • How much wetting agent did you put in? I'm using Kodak Professional Photo-Flo 200 w/ tap water and I have been using one ounce and just fill the rest with the 500ml for the one roll of 120.

  • @josephgarza81 Kodak Photo-Flo 200 should be diluted 1+200. That is, 1 ml of Photo-Flo plus 200 ml of water. One bottle of this chemical (473ml) will make 95 liters of prepared solution.

  • One thing that I noticed is that you did not show an inspection of the film during the fix, most people I know check their film at half the time to ensure that the film is cleared and then fix for the same amount of time as it takes to clear. Some films require longer fixing times than others.

    As for washing, if you use a hypo clearing agent then you only have to wash for 5 minutes. If you don't the wash time is 30 minutes.

    ghod1888 "125 film"???

  • This is real photography.

  • Digital world just make thing so much easier but I still would love to know how to do this.

  • I load up my film totally different to this, I use 125 film but I don't think it should matter and i agitate on every procedure for 30 seconds, also I force wash for 20 minutes, everyone has got a different way I suppose

  • Hey great vid! :) Do you have a link to a finnised photo?

    Thanks :)

  • Hi your video not only shows the development process, it also evidences a waste of water, and that's nothing right! to shame!

  • Hola en tu video no solo muestras el proceso de revelado, además de ello evidencias un desperdicio de agua, y eso no es nada correcto!! que verguenza!

  • weren't you ever taught not to waste water? It's a disgrace!!! a real put off...

    interesting method tho

  • How does developing colour 120 negs differ to developing B&W?

  • @BoyFromTheOtherSide some people say its easier others say its harder. It's easier because the development times are the same for every film. It's harder because you have to keep your chemicals at 38ºC. Not impossible, but a bit trickier.

  • @BoyFromTheOtherSide If your in the USA, you cannot get the chems. for color development. Thank you to METH and our shity Variable costs to shipping!

  • @josephgarza81 Photography chemistry is readily available in the united states and has nothing to do with meth production.

  • im assuming the running water helps to promote air circulation he is working with chems.....

  • What song is this?

  • Pi = 3.1415926535897932384626433832­7950288419716939957510

  • Thanks for the tutorial....but what is up with the running water? Don't you know thereare people around the globe that arestarvibg for fresh water!!

  • @kaybeenomics how about parched not "starving for fresh water" get it right.

  • thank you so much u saved my life i have an exam tomorow and you realy helpd me..xx

  • @Conseen7462

    If you have an exam, surely you should have a general idea of what you are doing?

  • does it matter what temperature the running water is? if so what should it be?

  • This is a very long and difficult procedure. I won't be able to do it.

  • nice tat! 3.14159

  • Wow, I would have never guess that the washing would be the most tedious.

  • This ended up relaxing me. I slowly started sinking deeper and deeper into my seat; my eyes became heavy.

    But I was disturbed around 4:20 when you fill the tank. The running water killed me! I get a little nutty about wasting water.

  • Well, thanks for the video. I didn't know until the end that the frikken roll of film was in there! Guess that added a lot more punch and poignancy to the process. Kudos, Sir.

  • Thank you so much this has been a great help!!

  • pplareppl: In fact this video is helpful. Taking delivery of my first batch of chemicals, tank etc tomorrow, so we'll see just HOW helpful!

  • Not pie. Pi. Although I do like pies.

  • @squarefrog : FYI its actually P just P say it out loud P thats the actual pronactuation of the greek letter im greek i been born in greece and i know my alphabet better than english or american, so beleave it its not pi or fucking pie, is just simply P i dnt know why english people keep changing our letters, people go holidays and they call it ( zanti) which the actual pronactuation is ( XAnthi) and other shits they just keep chaning it. all in all nice tatto i dnt even know why u have it lol

  • I love developing film and love black and white film in particular

  • if u posting a tutorial video than please specific the volume of chem. and temp. and such... watching this didn't help :(

  • It would be impossible for me to specify this for a couple of reasons:

    - Each different dev tank requires different volume of chems. The tank I'm using requires 500ml.

    - Temps vary with different chems, but most state use 20ºc

    I suggest you go to my website which explains the process with more detail. This was never intended to be a standalone video.

  • @MeIsArtTickYouLet

    yeah its call Art Institutes

    Zzzzziiiinnnngggg

  • Turn off running water when your not using it bro.

  • There's a film washer in the sink to his right. The running water is washing the batch of film he processed just prior to this one.

  • @Starbuckscp thats the water wash its supposed to be running isnt it?

  • @Starbuckscp Yeah, your video is making me want to take a piss.

  • I love film! theres something about it that is more magical then Digital!

  • You inspired me to make my own BW. I did a few things wrong or off timing but I look forward to doing it again. right now im washing film... kind of anxious how the quality goes

  • IF it's done right, it'll look just fine. I don't know how long it sits in the developer, i would usually do it overnight. Let it sit i mean, i remember tapping it multiple times. I never used gloves though. It was all in highschool that i did which is like 3 years ago. So, i'm still a little fuzzy on details. But i absolutely love developing film. It's better then digital, especially for art.

  • hey, great video! it helped me out a lot. and, by the way: nice tattoo, very nice song and great pictures! i just saw your website and loved it.

  • Cool video, But you should turn off the water when you are inverting...

  • Nice gloves!

  • Nice tattoo!

  • Great vid, im going to try this for the first time tomorrow. Stupid question but, what was the music and was it by that you used to accompany your vid? Thanks

  • It was by me. I wrote it for a final year university assignment

  • Don't be mad but... I don't think that squeezing the negative with your fingers is a good idea.

  • Why not? The only alternative is to use a squeegie, but I dont trust that.

    By using your fingers you can feel if there is any residual dirt or grit. Perfectly safe :)

  • In my school, they teach us that the negative is a holy "thing". It's like a RAW in a digitalcamera. U use your fingers and squeegies because U don't want to have some sh*t on the negative- from the water etc.

    We use FOTONAL to do that. The negative is drying with normal speed, and the fotonal makes the waterdrops to fall and it doesn't make this *** to U'r negative. :)

    With fingers U can harm the negative- it's my opinion.

  • Well I use a wetting agent too, but squeegieing gets most of the excess water off so it dries sooner and more evenly. I've never had a problem getting rid of excess water this way, but what works for me wont necessarily work for you :)

    But certainly dont pick up any bad habits if you are at school.

  • in class, we would hang the film up after we squeegee'd it. the film always came out just fine. I still have the photos and negatives i developed, it was so magical. Shame that withink the next 10 yrs scientist's predict film disappearing and being outdated.

  • i think i used a squeegee thing, it was very small, and very soft so it wasn't like the squeegee from a window squeegee. But thanks for this video . I love developing film.

  • The developing tank he is using lets no light onto the film reel, but you are correct when loading the film on the reel and then into the tnak it must be dark, be it darkroom or use fo a lightbag

  • a few questions

    1) surely this needs to be in a dark room with no light

    2) how do you heat up or cool down the liquids

  • i was always told that it needs to be done in a darkroom with no light whatsoever.

    but i guess because it's being filmed.

    doing it in the dark wouldn't make alot of sense coz then we wouldn't see anything.

    i guess theres not actually anything init for the demo.

  • 1) only loading the film needs to be in a dark room.

    2) with hot or cold water.

  • how could they film a how-to video in a dark room? of course it need to be dark, however making a video in the dark is not very helpful

  • hey silly question but are any of these chemicals dangrous?

  • That's not a silly question. If used correctly, the chemicals aren't particularly dangerous, but they can be if you don't use them correctly. Each chemical should come with a data sheet containing handling information.

    Personally, I just use disposable rubber gloves when handling chemicals. I also use them in a well ventilated area with windows open.

  • thanks.

  • im new to film but i love the look of it would u happen to have a video showing how to devlope color film? also if i had NO light in a dark room would it not be hard to see and thing...dose red light not hurt it?

  • I don't know how to develop colour film, as it is much harder to develop. However on the related videos on the right it looks like someone else has a colour developing video.

    You only need to load your film in complete darkness. Once its securely in the dev tank light cannot get to your film.

  • oh ok, our professor made it seems as if every step needs to be done in the dark. can you briefly explin the "parts per" because a certain amount of dev, bath, and fixer is mixed with the water, rite?? (i have tmax400 film and will most likely use the same 20 oz tank as in the video)

  • what is the name of the song?

  • It doesn't really have a name. I composed it for an assignment at university a few years ago.

  • where can i find the specification of this operation on your website?

    can you send me a link

  • how many temperature have to be the liquids?

  • about 20º Celsius/ 68º Fahrenheit

  • is this the minimum? or what?

  • just what is recommended by most film chemical manufacturers. Read the data sheets for an exact figure.

  • That's an awesome vid. Thank you so much! Great job!

  • very informative, cheers

  • LOL, the idea of the Ilford method is to save water, but you left the water running anyway!

  • haha yea that was funny :P

    @OP nice Pi tat you got there btw

  • hi,

    is this process for 16mm fil/ super 16mm? it it for negative b/w or reversal colour

  • This is for negative black and white.

  • Just a tip...

    when filling the tank with water several times, the water is ment to be the same temp, not straight from the tape.

    I was also taught to roll aswell as invert. a good way of doing this is to place your fingers under and on top of the container and invert it to the left then right, or the other way. you'll notice your hands spin with it.

    Good Vid

  • so what is suppose to be the temp of the water? 

    max

  • 20ºC. Its only a guide line. Ilford recommend that all of your chemicals and water be within 4ºC of each other. I just guess it. Works fine for me.

  • 20 degrees (temp varies on film)

    dan

  • where do you get those chemicals and the black jar? and the wheel thing xD *i dont remember the names* also where do u get the black bag to put the film inside of that black bag that looks like a sweater?

  • I bought the chemicals from my local photography store. The black jar is called a developing tank, this one is a Paterson Super System 4 tank, which comes with a spool (the wheel thing). I bought a changing bag (the black bag) from eBay. I got a cotton one rather than the usual PVC as it is breathable.

    eBay is a good place to look for most photography items.

  • I was taught to roll the tank while developing.

  • doesnt that tank come with a little stick that you agitate? thats what i have.

  • That's correct, but I've never used that swizzle stick. I think you just rotate it left and right to agitate.

  • is it safe to do this without a respirator

  • Yes, just make sure you have adequate ventilation. I usually have my window open. Some of these chemicals smell, so its a good idea to have the window open anyway!

  • great video, this doesn't look hard at all. One sugestion, maybe you could try to cut down on the amount of water waste, by turning the tap off when it is not needed.

  • good call!

  • im not like a professional or anything but shouldnt you be using water inbetween all of the chemical steps??? like developer, water, stop bath, water, fix, water??

  • No. Some people use water instead of stop bath. Stop solution is a chemical which stops your developer developing immediately. So it's quicker than water. But also more expensive.

    I guess you could use water between the stop and fix, but it's not necessary.

  • oh okay i was just curious because that is what i was taught to do but its nice to know there are other ways! i have a question though... how necessary is the pre-soak? because i accidentally forgot to pre-soak on one of my films and im hoping i didnt ruin it...

  • I think it depends on your developer. I've only ever pre-soaked when using Diafine.

  • oh okay. i did end up ruining my film cause i didnt fix long enough oops.

  • not really, from what i remember well its actually stop bath

    my negatives came out great

  • i didnt fix my film long enough so the opeque color didnt come off the film. so for my situation it was the fix.

  • Actually, you just wasted your own time replying without viewing the video in context. Its part of my website, which covers all of these details and more.

    Timings change for each film and developer so you are on your own for that. Your developer instructions tells you what the temp should be. Wetting agent is a solution to avoid white water marks if you live in a hard water area.

  • if you know all this stuff then why are you here?

  • Holy crap, please turn off the water faucet.

  • I noticed that too ^^

  • Agreed.

  • Close the water when not using it... please.

  • Good point. We waste so much water here.

  • @RMRio if I had £1 for every time someone said this, I'd have enough to pay my water bill. If you are worried about water consumption, do not shoot colour film. You waste loads of water processing that.

  • They didn't explain how many minutes the initial mixture should be in the tank.

  • Thats because different films and different chemicals all use different timings. Google "massive dev chart" to find the timings you need.

  • The time does change due to temperature, your developing and other factors. I do black and white TK illford or Kodak film. So I do Dev for 5 minuites and shake it every 30 seconds, then wash, then stop bath, then fixer for 5 and shake every 30, then wash. But the process can change from photographer to photographer.

  • I don't recommend shaking the tank, you may create bubbles. Invert the tank gently. But I guess if it's working for you then carry on :)

  • you shake it to agitate and then usually you almost kind of slam the tank onto the table top not very hard of course but enough to dislodge bubbles from the film

  • I love your film development videos, Thank you so much, they've been very helpful.

    I was just wondering if you know if you can re-use B&W developer? specifically Kodak T-max?

  • You can re-use some developers, and then just adjust the development times accordingly. I haven't used T-Max so I couldn't tell you if you can re-use that or not. Sorry!

  • Can you develop colour film with black and white chemicals? Is that possible?

  • You can, but you'll end up with black and white negatives. As colour film is more expensive, this is usually a last resort. If you've shot a load of pictures then realise you would have prefered black and white.

  • is this what you called cross process?

  • no this is just black and white processing. Cross processing is where you process a film in the wrong chemicals, for artistic effect.

  • can this also be done with color films, or just b&w? sori im noob.

  • Color film development requires different chemicals, but it is basically the same process.

  • it also requires strict temperature control. So I get mine done at photo labs, because its too much hassle to do it at home.

  • What should I do with my chemicals when they've stopped working properly? Can I just throw them down the sink or should I bring them to a photolab?

  • This depends on where you live and local regulations. Providing you don't have a septic tank, you can usually flush small amounts of used developer down the drain. Just make sure you flush it with plenty of water. Stop and fix are more difficult. Google search for "squarefrog developing film" and read my holga techniques page.

  • Once you have a negitave roll how do you blow it up so it is the exact size you want it to be?8x10,5x7

  • You can either get that done in the lab where you got it processed, or you can scan it in and do it yourself. But that way you need a scanner that can scan film.

    Note that if you take square pictures they will be 5" square than 5x7, or 8" rather than 8x10.

  • what is your favorite washing method?

    i just bought an holga and i'm intending to develop my films, and the ilford method seems much simpler and there's the advantage of wasting less water. but is it really effective? do i need to do anything else besides what is in the video?

    btw, great video.

  • Yes this is just negative development. I don't feel qualified enough to do a paper development video. Plus I don't know how you'd actually film it! Not sure if the video camera would even focus in the subdued light conditions.

  • you can usually get stuff second hand. Most people are going away from film, so nearly all the equipment can be bought of eBay.

    It's very easy to learn how to process film. But you can spend a long time trying out different developer/film combinations. So its as hard as you want it to be. But its definitely very rewarding.

  • this is just long!!

  • Nah - its short.

  • cool thanks for the info!

  • One questions comes to mind though!

    Even though developing your own film is extremely cool, does it have other advantages ?

    Of course you can give the film your own 'feeling' the way you want it, but i'd be too scared to expiriment with that anyway.

    Does it give better results then when i go to a local shop to get it developed nicely for €2,50 ?

  • Well developing your own black and white film tends to be much much cheaper than getting it developed commercially.

    But in my opinion it's not really worth developing your own colour film. The chemicals have a much shorter work life, and the chemicals must be kept at a constant temperature. As a result I usually just take colour films to a lab to get developed, then I scan the images at home on my Epson 4490.

  • Wow! I read all the comments.. really interesting! Thanks!!

  • Thanks to the help of this video I developed my first roll of 120 film yesterday! Thanks!

  • after you are done how do you put it on the photo paper?

  • You need to either scan the film or print it in a dark room. That's beyond the scope of this video so I'm afraid you are on your own.

  • Thanks for posting this video. Once you have all of your materials and chemicals, how much does it cost in the end?

    <