This vid was one of my references when I started out. Excellent tutorial. Since 6% (20 vol) H2O2 is available here and comes out cheaper, that's what I use. The highest strength HCl I've found is 29% (close enough to the 31.45% used in the vid). So my etchant ratio (by volume) is: 1 part HCl : 1 part H2O2 : 1 part H2O. Takes around 4 to 5 min to etch a board. If I omit the water, etching time would shorten. Given how nasty this cocktail is I do everything outdoors and don a goggle and face mask
Could you please provide a list of materials? What type of PCB you are using mainly. I am wanting to start etching my own boards. Your method looks to be the most simplest one I have came across. For someone that is starting out, what all materials and tools would be needed? Thank you, and awesome video!
@aoshima6566 All of the materials I buy from Parts express.
The PCB is found in the Hobbyist/Projects section under (PCB Board etching). Look for the presensitized PCBs available in either one side or two sided variations and in various sizes.
You'll also need the Positive Type Developer Concentrate. I buy it from Parts Express. The part# is 340-144, price is $7.99.
As for tools, anything from a hack saw (to a shear to cut the PCB), rubber gloves, measuring cup, plastic containers, etc.
I was looking through my Favorites, and came across this video. Still the best etching process video I've found anywhere. I've used this method as described and it works beautifully. I know I've said it before, but thanks again for posting this video, really great stuff.
@gindisilas Sorry to take so long to respond but have not been well. The chemical is Positive Type Developer Concentrate. I buy it from Parts Express. The part# is 340-144, price is $7.99.
Good Video, however Using a higher concentration of Hydrogen Peroxide yields a much faster and much cleaner result. The delayed etch time leads to the resist lifting and is due to the fact that you are mixing 97% water with 3% H2O2. I use 40% H2O2 pool oxidizer (Baquicil) from a local Pool supply store. Try it out! you can get a gallon for about 20 dollars!
@nvd88 "The delayed etch time leads to the resist lifting and is due to the fact that you are mixing 97% water with 3% H2O2."
Thanks for the advice but after literally hundreds of pcbs I have never had any resist lift problem. Also my traces are very clean and detaliled every time.
That being said, shortening the etching time would be the only reason for me to try a stronger concentration of H202. I'll give it a try and see how the result are, and get back to you. Thanks again!
@nepo422 Yes you can use it (The Ferric Chloride solution is prepared by pouring 500 gr of FeCl3 into one litre of water) but you should also know that Ferric Chloride produces more poisonous gas during chemical etching process.. so stick with the other choice Hydrochloric acid (HCl) + Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)
Great video - thanks for creating and sharing! This has proved useful in guiding me through the process of making my own PCB - which I intend to do for the first time once my ordered materials arrive.
No, it is Datak Positive Type Developer Concentrate. I order it online from partsexpress. For developing photo sensitive boards coated with positive type etch resist. Concentrate solution (1 part developer to 10 parts water). 2 oz. bottle $7.90
Thanks for the comment sorry I took so long to respond.
what brand of boards do you use? (I am interested in them, because you said, they don't need a UV light) allso; for how long do you leave them under the light?
@pero2727 Also I have made many circuits with these pscbs and have never used anyting other than a 100 watt incadescent bulb. The ten minutes exposure time is for pcbs up to 5" x 5". Larger pcbs will require an exposure time of up to 15 minutes. Also with larger boards you may need to swing the bulb in a circular pattern around the pscb for even light exposure. I have never had a bad result todate unlike with other methods and brands.
@pero2727 The brand is Datak Premier Series. Expose to a regular 100 watt incadescent bulb for 10 minutes (as per inculded instruction). Bulb should be about 12" away from pscb. I buy the pcbs, developer and tin plate all from Parts Express. Be advised that though the description at PE says to expose to U/V light, this is a quote from the included instructions, "The Premier series of pscbs DO NOT require U/V during exposure. An ordinary 100 watt light bulb is a good light source".
@tahwnikcufos I have not had nearly as good results with ink-jet transparencies. However others have said that they had excellent results. I am assuming that you mean ink-jet transparencies used with a ink-jet printer because they will not work well with laser-jet printers.
@ttsqas Yes, that is what I mean. I have both, but I use ink-jet transparencies a lot and they are cheaper. I was just curious about the suitability for this purpose, because they work quite well for projecting. I am finding that having someone else etch boards for my purposes to be cost prohibitive, so I am searching the internet for DIY alternatives. So far, your method seems to be the cleanest and safest that I have seen. $100+ for 1 single sided board, is more than I want to pay.
@ttsqas That's the average price for an unpopulated board, 12.5" X 3" no special handling and minimum board requirements. The places I checked, have a min. of 3 boards, with discounts only appearing with multiple boards per order and repeat business. I repair guitar amplifiers, and repopulating or replacing a troubled circuit board, on most amps, is usually 1/10 the vale of the amp. 142 components to repopulate the chorus and 15V power supply in my amp came to $43.93 (USD) (2 days shipped)
@tahwnikcufos That's 48 distinct part numbers, with a majority of the parts being passive (71 resistors and 36 capacitors). The parts for the power amp board, came to even less. Using 2 each MJ15001/MJ15002 in the output stage (140 clean watts, that rival that of tube amps). Most solid state guitar amps of the 80's had great designs, but poor manufacturing and routing of components. Not to mention the use of cheaper "border line parts", i.e. 500ma regulators in a circuit that ran 450ma at idle.
@tahwnikcufos You can get a 12.5" x 3" pcb from w w w . futurlec . c o m . for $55.94 with silk screen and solder mask. It's only $31.94 if you don't need the silk screen and solder mask. Their assembly prices are pretty good too. No minimum either.
@ttsqas Awesome!!!! Thanks, I think they may be exactly what I am looking for... the price sure is right. Is this who you use? I've never heard of them before.
@tahwnikcufos You're welcome. I use either them or Advanced Assembly w w w . a a p c b . c o m. AA is in the US whereas Futurlec is in Japan. AA will get you your pcb within 5-7 days and at a pretty good price. I have not used them for small runs yet. We usually do the pcbs for our prototype inhouse and then send the final runs out. I design mainly audio electronics for a living. I do power amps, mixers, active crossovers, guitar and bass preamps, ect. Check out my video called my day job.
@ttsqas I have seen your day job video, that's why I'm so interested in your opinion. Networking at it's finest, been on the phone for the last 2 days, working leads, and so far, yours still appear to be the best ones yet. As much fun as DIY can be, I prefer it to be sporadic and not a major project with obligations (like storage and disposal of toxic chemicals, or setting aside a special place, just for that task). It's bad enough, that my lawn mower has it's own parking spot ;-) Thanks again!
@ttsqas I'm going to call Advance tomorrow and get an idea of their offerings. Also going do some more digging on Futurlec in forums and "Google". If I can keep the quality good, and reduce my shop hours, I'll definitely be happy.
@ttsqas I called Allied today, $99 minimum order, BUT they said I can merge my designs, to consume a larger board (i.e. 14 x17 or 12 X 18) and still get that price. So, I could essentially get all 3 main boards for one amp + 8 stomp box mini-boards for the same money as the one board. It's less than $0.50 per square inch, and the lack of B/S in the price is enough to put them at the top of my list. Gonna send them some Gerbers this weekend to get some quotes - thanks again for the help ;-)
@joebro391 Thanks Joe, I had hoped to follow up with a video showing the entire process from start to finish but have been busy. However I plan to when I take my vacation soon. Thanks again
@simspacetn; Leftover "etchant" which is an acid, should be disposed of in an approved manner and according to local regulations which varies from one locale to another. Contact your local watewater treatment facility for information on how to safely dispose of.
I use soda ash which is the active ingredient in washing soda. The chemical name for it is sodium carbonate, chemical formula Na2CO3. It is more basic, that is, less acidic, than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), whose chemical formula is NaHCO3. The type of sodium carbonate used in washing soda is a decahydrate, so you need to use a lot more washing soda than you would anhydrous soda ash, perhaps three times as much - assuming that you are able to find pure unadulterated washing soda.
Arm & Hammer brand "Super Washing Soda" does not now contain any additives, though you must use a larger quantity due to its greater hydration level. A better source is a swimming pool supplies store, or a hardware store that carries some pool supplies, which will carry pure sodium carbonate (a popular brand is PH Up), sold for the purpose of increasing the pH of pool water.
Swimming pool cleaning companies use soda ash to neutralize the muriatic acid after pool cleaning before draining it into the sewage system. Keep in mind that they use a lot more muriatic acid than one would for ecthing.
Thanks for this, unfortunately here in Australia Hydrogen Peroxide is pretty expensive so it actually works out better if you use the regular etchant.
Soon I will be converting a inkjet printer to a direct to substrate printer using a inexpensive printer. I want to start printing directly to my pcbs. I will post work.
I do have a question about the transparency, what is that material? where do you get it? and can it be printed with a normal standard printer?
I love this video and I have never ever seen this explained in such detail. Maybe I am offending people on youtube but I can't watch every single video that's out there. Thank you for sharing this, it opens up a lot of possibilities for people like me who have not a real technical education and knowledge about electronics. 5* greets from the Netherlands
The transparency is from Staples and is for laserjet printer. You can print from a inkjet as well just make sure you use transparency made for inkjet. The transparencies are expensive; usually between $40 to $50usd. This is because most office supply companies only carry packages of large quantiies. You can order smaller quantities online of only ten. Am I allowed to post where from guys?
No, I don't think I said that. Just that too short of a developement will result in some etch resist remaining where there are no traces, resulting in poor etching results.
But please my brotherman use your safety glasses, I've used the comercial developer ,it's very fast , to fast. Daytech ...eay?presentized, but no uv eay ?
Yeah Gary, I have been breaking my own rules in regards to safety. I will take heed. Datak developer and presensitized pcb. Requires no UV just 100 watt incadecent bulb at 12" for 10 minutes. You can simply use a different ratio if you want a slower developing time. I use 1:10 1 ounce developer to 10 ounces warm tap water but you could do down to 1/2 ounce developer.
I used another comercial product developer once the first time, must of had to strong, it removed everything, so i went back to KOH 1 tsp to 1 litre water... Looking good Troy. Gary
Is it possible to use a normal 100W lamp for uv-sensible sprays?
donskanone 1 month ago
@donskanone "Is it possible to use a normal 100W lamp for uv-sensible sprays?"
I believe you meant uv-sensitive sprays; but no a 100W normal or incandescent lamp will not work with uv-sensitive spray resist.
ttsqas 1 month ago
Comment removed
donskanone 1 month ago
@ttsqas ok thanks! great video!
donskanone 1 month ago
This vid was one of my references when I started out. Excellent tutorial. Since 6% (20 vol) H2O2 is available here and comes out cheaper, that's what I use. The highest strength HCl I've found is 29% (close enough to the 31.45% used in the vid). So my etchant ratio (by volume) is: 1 part HCl : 1 part H2O2 : 1 part H2O. Takes around 4 to 5 min to etch a board. If I omit the water, etching time would shorten. Given how nasty this cocktail is I do everything outdoors and don a goggle and face mask
emactan 2 months ago
@emactan Thanks. Glad to hear you are having great success!
ttsqas 1 month ago
Could you please provide a list of materials? What type of PCB you are using mainly. I am wanting to start etching my own boards. Your method looks to be the most simplest one I have came across. For someone that is starting out, what all materials and tools would be needed? Thank you, and awesome video!
aoshima6566 3 months ago
@aoshima6566 All of the materials I buy from Parts express.
The PCB is found in the Hobbyist/Projects section under (PCB Board etching). Look for the presensitized PCBs available in either one side or two sided variations and in various sizes.
You'll also need the Positive Type Developer Concentrate. I buy it from Parts Express. The part# is 340-144, price is $7.99.
As for tools, anything from a hack saw (to a shear to cut the PCB), rubber gloves, measuring cup, plastic containers, etc.
ttsqas 1 month ago
worse
not much useful
rishikeshsharma1 3 months ago
@rishikeshsharma1 "worse
not much useful"
Your comment might carry some weight if you had a video in which you demonstrate a better method.
ttsqas 3 months ago 2
I was looking through my Favorites, and came across this video. Still the best etching process video I've found anywhere. I've used this method as described and it works beautifully. I know I've said it before, but thanks again for posting this video, really great stuff.
Khepramancer 5 months ago
@Khepramancer Hey, thanks a lot.
ttsqas 5 months ago
What chemical do you dip the pc board into at 0.37?
gindisilas 5 months ago
@gindisilas Sorry to take so long to respond but have not been well. The chemical is Positive Type Developer Concentrate. I buy it from Parts Express. The part# is 340-144, price is $7.99.
ttsqas 1 month ago
Very nice process, and thanks for all your time to make such a great video.
VisioninScience 5 months ago
@VisioninScience Thanks I had planned more videos, but I have been very ill and unable to do so.
ttsqas 5 months ago
@ttsqas i hope that something can help you with whatever it may be, regards.
VisioninScience 5 months ago
Good Video, however Using a higher concentration of Hydrogen Peroxide yields a much faster and much cleaner result. The delayed etch time leads to the resist lifting and is due to the fact that you are mixing 97% water with 3% H2O2. I use 40% H2O2 pool oxidizer (Baquicil) from a local Pool supply store. Try it out! you can get a gallon for about 20 dollars!
nvd88 6 months ago
@nvd88 "The delayed etch time leads to the resist lifting and is due to the fact that you are mixing 97% water with 3% H2O2."
Thanks for the advice but after literally hundreds of pcbs I have never had any resist lift problem. Also my traces are very clean and detaliled every time.
That being said, shortening the etching time would be the only reason for me to try a stronger concentration of H202. I'll give it a try and see how the result are, and get back to you. Thanks again!
ttsqas 5 months ago
can i use ferric chloride?
because i have some at home.
nepo422 11 months ago
@nepo422 Yes you can use it (The Ferric Chloride solution is prepared by pouring 500 gr of FeCl3 into one litre of water) but you should also know that Ferric Chloride produces more poisonous gas during chemical etching process.. so stick with the other choice Hydrochloric acid (HCl) + Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)
smile0dont0cry 6 months ago
Hi
Your video is one of the best videos ever put up in YouTube.com on the subject
Thank you so much for the stuff. Also, I am desperately waiting for your next video
you mentioned. If you have already put up, then, kindly send me the link in my email id: ratnaraj_kanungoe@yahoo.co.in
Indeed a very excellent piece of work. Keep it up!!!!!
shinningraj 11 months ago
@shinningraj Thanks, I habe been ill but look to post more videos soon.
ttsqas 5 months ago
Great video - thanks for creating and sharing! This has proved useful in guiding me through the process of making my own PCB - which I intend to do for the first time once my ordered materials arrive.
FjerrFjerrson 1 year ago
it developed so fast , with other videos on youtube it is much slower and one can barley see a result. why is this so different : ?
rainbowsalads 1 year ago
Thanks...I did some research and found out all the required chemicals now. I will be attempting my own pcb soon. Thanks for the video!
universaldave999 1 year ago
Is the developer just water? That's not too clear.
universaldave999 1 year ago
@universaldave999
No, it is Datak Positive Type Developer Concentrate. I order it online from partsexpress. For developing photo sensitive boards coated with positive type etch resist. Concentrate solution (1 part developer to 10 parts water). 2 oz. bottle $7.90
Thanks for the comment sorry I took so long to respond.
ttsqas 1 year ago
This video is absolutely fantastic! This will save people alot of money. Thanks so much. Good Luck with all you do.
universaldave999 1 year ago
wonderful! thx man
daxweb 1 year ago
@daxweb No, thank you. I only wish that I had the time to post a follow up to this.
ttsqas 1 year ago
Awesome vid, man. I'm just finding out about these techniques. Having a cameraman helps.
d46512 1 year ago
@d46512 Sorry I miised your comment. Please accept my belated thanks. Yes having a camera man does help.
ttsqas 1 year ago
like a raft bobbing on the ocean
donnyab 1 year ago
@donnyab Lol....suppose.
ttsqas 1 year ago
what brand of boards do you use? (I am interested in them, because you said, they don't need a UV light) allso; for how long do you leave them under the light?
pero2727 1 year ago
@pero2727 Also I have made many circuits with these pscbs and have never used anyting other than a 100 watt incadescent bulb. The ten minutes exposure time is for pcbs up to 5" x 5". Larger pcbs will require an exposure time of up to 15 minutes. Also with larger boards you may need to swing the bulb in a circular pattern around the pscb for even light exposure. I have never had a bad result todate unlike with other methods and brands.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@pero2727 The brand is Datak Premier Series. Expose to a regular 100 watt incadescent bulb for 10 minutes (as per inculded instruction). Bulb should be about 12" away from pscb. I buy the pcbs, developer and tin plate all from Parts Express. Be advised that though the description at PE says to expose to U/V light, this is a quote from the included instructions, "The Premier series of pscbs DO NOT require U/V during exposure. An ordinary 100 watt light bulb is a good light source".
ttsqas 1 year ago
Great video!
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos Thanks. Check out my new video on debuting my 150 AMP pulse width modulator.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@ttsqas You're welcome, will do. I have a question - will ink-jet transparencies work as good?
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos I have not had nearly as good results with ink-jet transparencies. However others have said that they had excellent results. I am assuming that you mean ink-jet transparencies used with a ink-jet printer because they will not work well with laser-jet printers.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@ttsqas Yes, that is what I mean. I have both, but I use ink-jet transparencies a lot and they are cheaper. I was just curious about the suitability for this purpose, because they work quite well for projecting. I am finding that having someone else etch boards for my purposes to be cost prohibitive, so I am searching the internet for DIY alternatives. So far, your method seems to be the cleanest and safest that I have seen. $100+ for 1 single sided board, is more than I want to pay.
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos Is that price for a populated board or unpopulated? What size is the board and is populated approx. how many components?
ttsqas 1 year ago
@ttsqas That's the average price for an unpopulated board, 12.5" X 3" no special handling and minimum board requirements. The places I checked, have a min. of 3 boards, with discounts only appearing with multiple boards per order and repeat business. I repair guitar amplifiers, and repopulating or replacing a troubled circuit board, on most amps, is usually 1/10 the vale of the amp. 142 components to repopulate the chorus and 15V power supply in my amp came to $43.93 (USD) (2 days shipped)
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos That's 48 distinct part numbers, with a majority of the parts being passive (71 resistors and 36 capacitors). The parts for the power amp board, came to even less. Using 2 each MJ15001/MJ15002 in the output stage (140 clean watts, that rival that of tube amps). Most solid state guitar amps of the 80's had great designs, but poor manufacturing and routing of components. Not to mention the use of cheaper "border line parts", i.e. 500ma regulators in a circuit that ran 450ma at idle.
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos You can get a 12.5" x 3" pcb from w w w . futurlec . c o m . for $55.94 with silk screen and solder mask. It's only $31.94 if you don't need the silk screen and solder mask. Their assembly prices are pretty good too. No minimum either.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@ttsqas Awesome!!!! Thanks, I think they may be exactly what I am looking for... the price sure is right. Is this who you use? I've never heard of them before.
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos You're welcome. I use either them or Advanced Assembly w w w . a a p c b . c o m. AA is in the US whereas Futurlec is in Japan. AA will get you your pcb within 5-7 days and at a pretty good price. I have not used them for small runs yet. We usually do the pcbs for our prototype inhouse and then send the final runs out. I design mainly audio electronics for a living. I do power amps, mixers, active crossovers, guitar and bass preamps, ect. Check out my video called my day job.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@ttsqas I have seen your day job video, that's why I'm so interested in your opinion. Networking at it's finest, been on the phone for the last 2 days, working leads, and so far, yours still appear to be the best ones yet. As much fun as DIY can be, I prefer it to be sporadic and not a major project with obligations (like storage and disposal of toxic chemicals, or setting aside a special place, just for that task). It's bad enough, that my lawn mower has it's own parking spot ;-) Thanks again!
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos No problem hope the one of those sources works out for you.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@ttsqas I'm going to call Advance tomorrow and get an idea of their offerings. Also going do some more digging on Futurlec in forums and "Google". If I can keep the quality good, and reduce my shop hours, I'll definitely be happy.
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@ttsqas I called Allied today, $99 minimum order, BUT they said I can merge my designs, to consume a larger board (i.e. 14 x17 or 12 X 18) and still get that price. So, I could essentially get all 3 main boards for one amp + 8 stomp box mini-boards for the same money as the one board. It's less than $0.50 per square inch, and the lack of B/S in the price is enough to put them at the top of my list. Gonna send them some Gerbers this weekend to get some quotes - thanks again for the help ;-)
tahwnikcufos 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos great to hear glad to have been of help.
ttsqas 1 year ago
@tahwnikcufos Meant to say if populated how many components?
ttsqas 1 year ago
sir plz i'lld like to know the name/type of printing paper used here
aghos4life 1 year ago
@aghos4life It is Staples brand but any laser transparencies will work fine.
ttsqas 1 year ago
Sir, thank you so much for the video. It was my first time etching and it turned out great. :D
FourStarAlien 2 years ago
Glad you had success and sorry for being too busy to follow thru with further explaination, but it appears you didn't need it. Good luck
ttsqas 2 years ago
great video! -Joe
joebro391 2 years ago
Comment removed
KENNNUSA 2 years ago
@joebro391 Thanks Joe, I had hoped to follow up with a video showing the entire process from start to finish but have been busy. However I plan to when I take my vacation soon. Thanks again
Troy
ttsqas 2 years ago
sir, is it water that you used to clean the pcb at the beginning of the video?
FourStarAlien 2 years ago
@FourStarAlien No, it isDatak Positive Type Developer Concentrate. $7.90 from Parts Express.
ttsqas 2 years ago
@FourStarAlien Also I am not cleaning the board but rather developing it. I'll explain more tomorrow. Thanks for the interest.
ttsqas 2 years ago
thank you sir, im lookin' forward to that. hats off. :D
FourStarAlien 2 years ago
ttsqas,
Thanks for an excellent video!
I used your recipe for etchant today with success!
One question though. I want to store the solution. Can I store it in an old glass (dk. blue) wine bottle?
-D.I.
desertofice 2 years ago
@desertofice Congratulations on your success and yes, it is safe to store the etchant in a glass bottle.
ttsqas 2 years ago
So what is the correct way to discard the etchant when done?
simspacetn 2 years ago
@simspacetn; Leftover "etchant" which is an acid, should be disposed of in an approved manner and according to local regulations which varies from one locale to another. Contact your local watewater treatment facility for information on how to safely dispose of.
ttsqas 2 years ago
I use soda ash which is the active ingredient in washing soda. The chemical name for it is sodium carbonate, chemical formula Na2CO3. It is more basic, that is, less acidic, than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), whose chemical formula is NaHCO3. The type of sodium carbonate used in washing soda is a decahydrate, so you need to use a lot more washing soda than you would anhydrous soda ash, perhaps three times as much - assuming that you are able to find pure unadulterated washing soda.
ttsqas 2 years ago
Arm & Hammer brand "Super Washing Soda" does not now contain any additives, though you must use a larger quantity due to its greater hydration level. A better source is a swimming pool supplies store, or a hardware store that carries some pool supplies, which will carry pure sodium carbonate (a popular brand is PH Up), sold for the purpose of increasing the pH of pool water.
ttsqas 2 years ago
Swimming pool cleaning companies use soda ash to neutralize the muriatic acid after pool cleaning before draining it into the sewage system. Keep in mind that they use a lot more muriatic acid than one would for ecthing.
ttsqas 2 years ago
Thanks for the comment.
ttsqas 2 years ago
Comment removed
Smartass707 2 years ago
????
Tweekintekin 2 years ago
????????
ttsqas 2 years ago
Thanks for this, unfortunately here in Australia Hydrogen Peroxide is pretty expensive so it actually works out better if you use the regular etchant.
hatchedarea 2 years ago
That is surprising, I now buy it for less than $1usd
ttsqas 2 years ago
We probably get ripped off but I just paid around $5.00USD for a small 100ml bottle of 6% H2O2.
hatchedarea 2 years ago
Wow! That is pretty high.
ttsqas 2 years ago
this was helpful....
knicknackssss 2 years ago
Thanks
ttsqas 2 years ago
Good info. I might have to try this some time. What do you use to print the film?
jameslmorehead 2 years ago
HP LaserJet P1005 $129.99 or the local print shops will charge between $.70 to $1 for those who don't have laser printers.
ttsqas 2 years ago
Soon I will be converting a inkjet printer to a direct to substrate printer using a inexpensive printer. I want to start printing directly to my pcbs. I will post work.
ttsqas 2 years ago
I was wondering about that myself.
llewgnal 2 years ago
how about double sided presensitized
knicknackssss 2 years ago
Yes, double sided presensitized pcbs are easy to do also. I will post soon.
ttsqas 2 years ago
I do have a question about the transparency, what is that material? where do you get it? and can it be printed with a normal standard printer?
I love this video and I have never ever seen this explained in such detail. Maybe I am offending people on youtube but I can't watch every single video that's out there. Thank you for sharing this, it opens up a lot of possibilities for people like me who have not a real technical education and knowledge about electronics. 5* greets from the Netherlands
insAneTunA 2 years ago
The transparency is from Staples and is for laserjet printer. You can print from a inkjet as well just make sure you use transparency made for inkjet. The transparencies are expensive; usually between $40 to $50usd. This is because most office supply companies only carry packages of large quantiies. You can order smaller quantities online of only ten. Am I allowed to post where from guys?
ttsqas 2 years ago
*Am I allowed to post where from guys?
I don't understand what you mean?
insAneTunA 2 years ago
Will I be breaking any of Youtube's policies by posting sources and part numbers?
ttsqas 2 years ago
We all show or sources for material, some give more than one source to be fair...
llewgnal 2 years ago
The longer the developer the shorter the etching ?
llewgnal 2 years ago
No, I don't think I said that. Just that too short of a developement will result in some etch resist remaining where there are no traces, resulting in poor etching results.
ttsqas 2 years ago
Nice method, I use it myself, only 3 to 1,
But please my brotherman use your safety glasses, I've used the comercial developer ,it's very fast , to fast. Daytech ...eay?presentized, but no uv eay ?
how long exposer ?
Good video. Gary
llewgnal 2 years ago
Yeah Gary, I have been breaking my own rules in regards to safety. I will take heed. Datak developer and presensitized pcb. Requires no UV just 100 watt incadecent bulb at 12" for 10 minutes. You can simply use a different ratio if you want a slower developing time. I use 1:10 1 ounce developer to 10 ounces warm tap water but you could do down to 1/2 ounce developer.
ttsqas 2 years ago
I used another comercial product developer once the first time, must of had to strong, it removed everything, so i went back to KOH 1 tsp to 1 litre water... Looking good Troy. Gary
llewgnal 2 years ago
I haven't tried KOH...but now I will have to 1st thing tomorrow morning.
ttsqas 2 years ago