Here's a tip for you, don't use glossy photo paper since it sticks to the pcb after ironing and therefore more work since you have to soak it on water to remove the paper totally, also it's quite expensive. What i use is a sticker backing paper, the yellow paper that is removed from the sticker since it's cheaper and won't require too much time ironing since it transfers quickly with less heating time. Make sure to print on the shiny part though not the rough side
@renekenshin6573 Great TIP....Many Mahalos... I switched to "Positive Photo sensitive"... been having great results, never misses. Had to buy 100W fluorscent and of course "Pre-sensitized Photo-positive CCB".
I still have some blank CCB, I'll try using the paper you mentioned.
the only place i have access to a laser-jet printer is at work, if i printed it out there then drove home (1 Hr) then ironed it on would it still work?
@Dark3ndWarrior Once you print onto paper, you got plenty of time. The toner dries immediately. Laters (hours or days or weeks), when you apply the heat (with iron) while pressing down on board, the toner liquifies and transfers to the copper.... No sweat... no rush needed!
@IronMav you got an iron vessel full of water with ice....temp of water approaches freezing.....idea was was get toner to "freeze" as quickly as possible....better resolution... Aloha, UC
Continued... and what is stopping the acid from burning away the copper that is underneath the plastic??? the plastic only protects the top face, but not the sides....
i dont get it, you have copper sheet, you put plastic on it, oyu use acid to burn off copper, and then you scrape off the plastic... since only a layer of copper came off, what's stopping the rest of the copper from messing up the circuit?// please explain if it is a sheet of copper on top of plastic to give it support, since if you burned away all of the copper other than the protected by the toner (plastic) it would just be little strings of thin copper...
I used some brand name Photo paper.....but, it's a lot easier (higher success rate, significantly) using "Press-n-Peel Blue" toner transfer paper.
Using "Press-n-Peel" (about $20 for 10 sheets...ordered online), I just used a Kinko's Copy Machine (their printers would not allow the "Press-n-Peel" paper to go thru)....Copy Machine works fine.. just remember to print out (that do be copied) in reverse!!!
Hi I've been having a lot of trouble doing (12 failed trys) and I have no idea what im doing wrong, I have used every type of paper from glossy, to transparencies and even regular paper but nothing sticks.. I have cleaned the board with everything from dishwashing soap to acetone brasso and alcohol and again my image will not stick. What could I be doing wrong?
Are you using a Laserjet or Photocopier to put image (traces) onto your target paper (the paper that will be used to heat transfer the toner)? If you are using "Inkjet" printer, you will fail, guarantied....you must use Laserjet or photocopier, both those processes use heat to transfer toner, therefore the toner can be "re-melted" and transfered to the PCB. Keep asking.
I really had to bear down with IRON, turn it on edge to get the PSI up (with good heat setting). The cleaniness of the CCB (copper clad board) should be sufficient even if you only used a brillo pad to scrub. It comes down to good pressure and heat.
Do you get any partial adherence/transfer?
I have since used (blue) Press n' Peel, a brand name for toner transfer (not to be confused "toner transfer system"...didn't like), easily found on internet.
yeah, you bet, I'll visiting your channel soon, looks like heavy electronics stuff....cool. I am getting ready to do some Basic Stamp or "Rabbit" stuff (microcontroller). I was an EE until my Junior year, then switched to ME, and later grad in OE. Background was an ET in the Navy, and later with a private submarine company.
Ferric Chloride, available thru "MG Chemicals" (and probably others).
I have also seen alternative "make-your-own" etching solutions, but not tried that.
"Etching" dissolves the away the copper on board that is not covered by ink (from ink/toner transfer process), and after etching is complete, you have just the copper "runs" you want on the board....drill and install components (electrically connect)....
dewd i used your video for a project, I was going to ask your permission first, but thought it would take too long, so i just took it. But if you dissaprove of it, I would feel ashamed of my self.
I couldn't help myself :).. The tunes are by Django Reinhardt...great Jazz and Swing, and the this particular tune is the title song to "Brazil" (and "now for something completely diffferent"..:)..Monty-Pythonese). Yeah, that's sort of the backyard/homegarage way...but good to have some reference.
Happy New Year to you, keep up your great work, Aloha, UC
what is the name of the solution used for etching??
ThePrateek1989 1 month ago
instead of paper, use lamination paper.
ThePrateek1989 1 month ago
Is etching necessary?
Nelrockz1 5 months ago
@Nelrockz1 without etching you never produce the circuit traces....no etching=no circuit
UnderseaCaveman 5 months ago
Here's a tip for you, don't use glossy photo paper since it sticks to the pcb after ironing and therefore more work since you have to soak it on water to remove the paper totally, also it's quite expensive. What i use is a sticker backing paper, the yellow paper that is removed from the sticker since it's cheaper and won't require too much time ironing since it transfers quickly with less heating time. Make sure to print on the shiny part though not the rough side
renekenshin6573 11 months ago
@renekenshin6573 Great TIP....Many Mahalos... I switched to "Positive Photo sensitive"... been having great results, never misses. Had to buy 100W fluorscent and of course "Pre-sensitized Photo-positive CCB".
I still have some blank CCB, I'll try using the paper you mentioned.
Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 11 months ago
where i can buy the PCB board? ty
kartman74usa 1 year ago
the only place i have access to a laser-jet printer is at work, if i printed it out there then drove home (1 Hr) then ironed it on would it still work?
Dark3ndWarrior 1 year ago
@Dark3ndWarrior Once you print onto paper, you got plenty of time. The toner dries immediately. Laters (hours or days or weeks), when you apply the heat (with iron) while pressing down on board, the toner liquifies and transfers to the copper.... No sweat... no rush needed!
UnderseaCaveman 1 year ago 2
nice video thanks alot :)
smile0dont0cry 1 year ago
@smile0dont0cry glad you enjoyed ... aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 1 year ago
Nice video congratulations;) What are you doing at 0:58 minutes? The pot rests on the PCB is full of ice or empty?
IronMav 1 year ago
@IronMav you got an iron vessel full of water with ice....temp of water approaches freezing.....idea was was get toner to "freeze" as quickly as possible....better resolution... Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 1 year ago
Continued... and what is stopping the acid from burning away the copper that is underneath the plastic??? the plastic only protects the top face, but not the sides....
HeadShot360IN 1 year ago
i dont get it, you have copper sheet, you put plastic on it, oyu use acid to burn off copper, and then you scrape off the plastic... since only a layer of copper came off, what's stopping the rest of the copper from messing up the circuit?// please explain if it is a sheet of copper on top of plastic to give it support, since if you burned away all of the copper other than the protected by the toner (plastic) it would just be little strings of thin copper...
HeadShot360IN 1 year ago
Thanks~ that cleared my doubts with etching PCBs
However, I used markers for mine. What paper did you use for the laser printout?
akiratrooper 1 year ago
@akiratrooper
I used some brand name Photo paper.....but, it's a lot easier (higher success rate, significantly) using "Press-n-Peel Blue" toner transfer paper.
Using "Press-n-Peel" (about $20 for 10 sheets...ordered online), I just used a Kinko's Copy Machine (their printers would not allow the "Press-n-Peel" paper to go thru)....Copy Machine works fine.. just remember to print out (that do be copied) in reverse!!!
UnderseaCaveman 1 year ago
you mad it with paint?
happygamestvfun1 1 year ago
@happygamestvfun1 Only the original circuit concept (schematic), the actual layout (circuit) was done using "Eagle Editor Lite" (a $50 program)
UnderseaCaveman 1 year ago
thanks man :D
TheKillerBoy2000 1 year ago
what program is theat(0:04)
TheKillerBoy2000 1 year ago
@TheKillerBoy2000 called "Eagle Editor" by CADSOFT.
UnderseaCaveman 1 year ago
Excellent video quality - one of the best I have seen! Great job!!!
NOCNOTCAUGHT 2 years ago
Many thanks
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
I spent all day watching DIY PCB videos, and I never realized that you did this one long ago. Great vid, it flowed well.
but I must admit, I was itching to see the board be populated at the end:)
onlywhenprovoked 2 years ago
Hi I've been having a lot of trouble doing (12 failed trys) and I have no idea what im doing wrong, I have used every type of paper from glossy, to transparencies and even regular paper but nothing sticks.. I have cleaned the board with everything from dishwashing soap to acetone brasso and alcohol and again my image will not stick. What could I be doing wrong?
matthewm0311 2 years ago
Are you using a Laserjet or Photocopier to put image (traces) onto your target paper (the paper that will be used to heat transfer the toner)? If you are using "Inkjet" printer, you will fail, guarantied....you must use Laserjet or photocopier, both those processes use heat to transfer toner, therefore the toner can be "re-melted" and transfered to the PCB. Keep asking.
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
Thanks,
Yes I have been using a laserjet pinter evertime. What else could it be?
matthewm0311 2 years ago
What brand of laserjet printer are you using ? I have heard that a lot of HP ones don't work for toner transfer all that well.
epineh 2 years ago
epi,
you're probably asking matthewrm...I used a photocopier (Kinko's, chain store for printing/copying)
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
haha HP that must be it. Thanks ;)
matthewm0311 2 years ago
Im not doing the "Ice Quench" hehe could that be it?
matthewm0311 2 years ago
LOL, the ice quench is not critical.
I really had to bear down with IRON, turn it on edge to get the PSI up (with good heat setting). The cleaniness of the CCB (copper clad board) should be sufficient even if you only used a brillo pad to scrub. It comes down to good pressure and heat.
Do you get any partial adherence/transfer?
I have since used (blue) Press n' Peel, a brand name for toner transfer (not to be confused "toner transfer system"...didn't like), easily found on internet.
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
What kind of printer you are using. I thought should be laser jet. Can I use ink Jet by the way?
brianhomerhk 2 years ago
No, you must use laser or photo-copiers (they lay down toner with heat).
I just printed the design (on inkjet), but then PHOTOCOPIED at Kinko's (or any photocopy place). Toner is the key..!!!
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
thanks a lot!
brianhomerhk 2 years ago
yeah, you bet, I'll visiting your channel soon, looks like heavy electronics stuff....cool. I am getting ready to do some Basic Stamp or "Rabbit" stuff (microcontroller). I was an EE until my Junior year, then switched to ME, and later grad in OE. Background was an ET in the Navy, and later with a private submarine company.
Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
can i have your contact or email add.. for more detail .. no how to make the PCB and what software did u use to draw the circuit
abasiyire 2 years ago
send me a PM (personal message), be happy to share experience and info on making the board.
Look forward to hearing from you.
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
can i use normal photo paper?????please tell me
dimsanda 2 years ago
You can try, I used typical Photo Paper....best resutls later with Press n' Blue.
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
Is the ferric chloride solution heated? Or is it just at room temperature? Also, what concentration of ferric chloride did you use?
xsolarwindx 2 years ago
At room temp, and I just used the commercial concentration (didn't mix it myself).
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
Is this regular paper?
I've seen others use Photo-Paper, Magazine Paper etc. but not regular paper!
taimooribhatti 2 years ago
I used Photo-paper, it is essential to get a good deposit of toner that does not penetrate/leach into the paper...
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
what do you use for etching? what is thet?
ognjetina 2 years ago
Ferric Chloride, available thru "MG Chemicals" (and probably others).
I have also seen alternative "make-your-own" etching solutions, but not tried that.
"Etching" dissolves the away the copper on board that is not covered by ink (from ink/toner transfer process), and after etching is complete, you have just the copper "runs" you want on the board....drill and install components (electrically connect)....
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
dewd i used your video for a project, I was going to ask your permission first, but thought it would take too long, so i just took it. But if you dissaprove of it, I would feel ashamed of my self.
snow1wave 2 years ago
snow1wave,
Approved!
UnderseaCaveman 2 years ago
LOL USCM you have been on the vapours again! You do crack me up. Have a cracking new year Bro and see you about online :}
dstick1 3 years ago
Dude you turned your house into an ECB factory. My wife just loves it when I turn the kitchen into a lab, LOL. Have a good one!
valhala56 3 years ago
during etching process people please wear gloves and don't breathe in the fumes :P
ZankDigiTrash 3 years ago
happy new year to all ;)
muckdiver 3 years ago
Happpppy New Year, MuckDiver...I want to be in your neck of the woods.
Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
what the hell was that all about!!!!!!!!!
LBCMADDOG 3 years ago
LBC,
Technology is like love, heaven and HELL.. (as in "what the hell"). Happy New Year, UC
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
HNY!
yogiudo 3 years ago
yogiudo, HNY...
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
Nicely done.
odin422 3 years ago
odin. Happy New year! Mahalo
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
Now that is one well trained shark!
Loved seeing how the Cards are made, I've worked with enough of them and I always wondered about the creation process.
Happy New Years from the future!
Plutonwolf 3 years ago
Pluton,
I couldn't help myself :).. The tunes are by Django Reinhardt...great Jazz and Swing, and the this particular tune is the title song to "Brazil" (and "now for something completely diffferent"..:)..Monty-Pythonese). Yeah, that's sort of the backyard/homegarage way...but good to have some reference.
Happy New Year to you, keep up your great work, Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
Happy New Year Buddy!
Dave.
TheAlexJonesChannel 3 years ago
Happy New Year to you too, Dave!
Keep up the awesome work you do!
Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
need some chips and salsa for it :p
Great job=)
Have a Great next year
czarwright 3 years ago
Probably Chinese Chips (hey, they work great...and taste great).
Mahalo :)
Happy New Year to you, Czarwright
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
Interesting!
june201955 3 years ago
JUne,
Happy New Year... Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago
thank for telling me that,have a good new year UC
LBCMADDOG 3 years ago
Bad Ass!! Great video!!
Mikey34549 3 years ago
Mahalo Mikey,
Happy New Years, Aloha, UC
UnderseaCaveman 3 years ago