About 4 1/2" and I used the plexi because that's what Mike Doolin used on his. I like using plexi for router bases because I can see through them. But these days I don't use plex too much if there is any machining that needs to be done to it like tapping especially. I've been using polycarbonate for that. Much better job with machining. If you have a plastic company near you then you can usually buy cut offs by the lb.
Chris, I love your videos and plan to make a version of this binding machine. Just a couple of questions...
1) what is the distance between the center if the router bit and the forward edge of the router stand? This would determin the space for the guitar under the router stand.
2) Why did you use plexiglass for the router base and the bottom of the router carrige?
@LFWOL Totally unnessecary as the counterweight does it's job prefectly. The purpose of the weight is to just to cancel out the extra weight of my router as in some cases a counter weight isn't even needed. You want downward pressure just not too much so that the shoe won't mare the soft top and make moving the cradle difficult. The pedal is just a complicated devise to add and pack away. Probably would be a tripping hazard. And besides that I use my foot to control a footswitch for the router.
Chris, great videos!! I would suggest making a slow climb cut all the way around the guitar to eliminate the need to cut from the "highs to lows". If the bit is sharp the climb cut is the most efficient way to go.
why not frame in that garage door?
thewestwoods 8 months ago
About 4 1/2" and I used the plexi because that's what Mike Doolin used on his. I like using plexi for router bases because I can see through them. But these days I don't use plex too much if there is any machining that needs to be done to it like tapping especially. I've been using polycarbonate for that. Much better job with machining. If you have a plastic company near you then you can usually buy cut offs by the lb.
chrispaulick 9 months ago
Chris, I love your videos and plan to make a version of this binding machine. Just a couple of questions...
1) what is the distance between the center if the router bit and the forward edge of the router stand? This would determin the space for the guitar under the router stand.
2) Why did you use plexiglass for the router base and the bottom of the router carrige?
David Lehrer
cowdudeable 9 months ago in playlist Luthier Tips du jour
@LFWOL Totally unnessecary as the counterweight does it's job prefectly. The purpose of the weight is to just to cancel out the extra weight of my router as in some cases a counter weight isn't even needed. You want downward pressure just not too much so that the shoe won't mare the soft top and make moving the cradle difficult. The pedal is just a complicated devise to add and pack away. Probably would be a tripping hazard. And besides that I use my foot to control a footswitch for the router.
chrispaulick 1 year ago
@chrispaulick stemac disliked 3 times, lol. awesome job
laiholapso 4 months ago
Chris, great videos!! I would suggest making a slow climb cut all the way around the guitar to eliminate the need to cut from the "highs to lows". If the bit is sharp the climb cut is the most efficient way to go.
Bivouac21 2 years ago
@Bivouac21 I know some do that but I'm always worried about tear out . My bits aren't always that sharp. :o)
chrispaulick 9 months ago
Yes.
chrispaulick 2 years ago
So, Do you go from the high to low?
WiZeR911 2 years ago
THAT BIT USES.
THANK YOU
GUITARREM 3 years ago
THAT BIT USES.
THANK YOU
GUITARREM 3 years ago
Thanks.
emascarri 3 years ago
The router is a PC310.
chrispaulick 3 years ago
Great. Thanks for having posted it. Could you please tell me what brand and model is your router? Thank you
emascarri 3 years ago
Wounderfull explanation ofthe toos and the process. Thanks for the video
Fiddlemaker5224 3 years ago
Nice binding jig.
Papachulo57 3 years ago