Climbing - First Ascent of Turboprop (E5 6b), with THE fall!

[laserspatula]

that was quiet a fall your risking, i just began leading, would not have the balls to go for it, not yet anyway. classy finish up!

[92koudy]

Where is it?

[climbingsean]

@92koudy

Where's what exactly? The fall? The route? Ilkley?

[melbournaut]

can you please tell me about the music?

[climbingsean]

@melbournaut Sure, the first track is by The Refused - the track is "Refused are f***ing dead" - it's the version from The Refused EP Compliation (without the vocals, their album The Shape of Punk to Come has the version with all the vocals in). The second track, starting about 3.13, is part-way through Deeper River by Dusted.

[rgd1977]

"Lose the rope"

That's a sensible constructive comment, yeah could really of done without that rope at 2.10, what a complete cock you are ChillinCherokee!

[sydneydoc]

Gutsy.

Was that 4 pieces of gear on the 2nd attempt ?

[climbingsean]

Yeah, didn't really fancy taking any more chances second time round - one of the cams ripped on the first fall (you can see it in the video if you look closely), and the krab on the second cam down got bent open in the shock of the fall.

[sydneydoc]

Yes, I can see it pop.

Your CG was probably only 2 m above the first piece of gear when you fell ... quite a worry that a fall like that would bend a biner.

[magnetite123456789]

could you not get a large cam in towards the top?

[jamonmyface]

really nice video, loving that you only took a ten minute rest, how close was the ground in that fall though?

[climbingsean]

Ended up with my feet about 8 foot off the deck - the fall was about 25 foot we reckon. Glad I didn't fall off any higher!

[preece56]

Good Efort!!! E5s a nice grade. got a project at the moment called "Partners In Crime E5 6b"

[fibreglass125]

Respect. you've got some guts doing that, specially after that awsome whipper. nice one.

[guyveegee]

inspiring stuff to watch after that rather character building fall

[adambarker96]

good place to go rockcliming nice vid

[diplingvin]

fake

[climbingsean]

You wish mate.

[climbingsean]

Also, I don't know how familiar you are with the British Trad climbing 'ethics', but you're not allowed to place bolts nowadays, and pegs can only be used if absolutely essential, and then only in quarries (because they're essentially man-made anyway), the current thinking is that placing pegs on new routes shouldn't be allowed (side note - i've recently replaced a rotting peg on another route in Ilkley Quarry to preserve the route's character, which met opposition and support in equal measure).

[kimboII]

But I guess if a route cannot be trad-climbed, then it will be wasted. Although watching these videos I get the feeling that all routes can be trad-climbed! Nevertheless most people would not trad-climb something without placing 10kg of friends and wedges and stuff...

i.e. me!

[climbingsean]

The only gear on the route was in the crack you can reach on the half-way ledge, which I placed 3 pieces of gear in (3 Friends). The top one ripped out in the fall, if you watch closely you can see it ping out followed by a few bits of rock as well! There's absolutely no other gear on the route until the thin break about a foot from the top, and placing gear here would mean hanging on and possibly falling off whilst you're placing the gear (the left hand-hold before the top is pretty rubbish).

[kimboII]

wow... that was close!

Why didn't you use some intermediate fixations between the one-and-only-I-guess safety and the top? Like a 'friend' example...

Nice video...