I'm reinstalling the HPOP on my '05 F-250 6.0L after updating the STC fitting. On the HPOP there are "insert standoffs" on 2 of the 3 holes where the mounting bolts go thru. After torquing the 3 bolts, there is a visible 1/32"-1/16" gap between the bottom of the HPOP and the surface that it mates up to. Is this normal? Is this is to control the squeeze on the yellow o-ring, or is something amiss? It feels like the gear is meshed correctly, and the STC fitting looks to be flush where it mates.
Turns out it was mating up just fine. What I thought was a gap was really the beveled edge on the HPOP body. With a little bit of oil and the bad angle, it was really hard to visually tell. Just to be sure, I took a razor blade (poor man's feeler gauge) to see if I could slide it under there and I couldn't.
I also understand now that the "standoffs" are locating pins to ensure the pump gear meshes correctly with the camshaft.
By the way, thank you SOOOO much for making all these videos. They were a HUGE help to a Jr home mechanic like me. I've learned so much more about my truck!
@1sgivens Great to hear my videos have helped! There should be no gap under the HPOP. There is an alignment dowel on the block that the pump has not seated into.
I have a no start when hot on my 03 6.0 found oil in the icp sensor and inside the connector do you think this is the root cause of my no start when hot/warm issue? the leak was enough it would drip down the bell housing.
during idle ice pressure would drop and not maintain any pressure.
@cruzerdlc The ICP sensor leaking can and will effect operation. Since the sensor is leaking, you definitely have to replace the sensor, and wiring connector then retest.
hey srmastertech i have a 2006 f350 that dies while driving, it has 9 psi while cranking. i replaced the oil pump and the ipr valve and afterwards it only has 76 psi. i checked for leaking seals and injectors, i even removed both valve covers and inspected the dummy plugs. i think that the new pump is bad. any advice??? by the way i am also a ford certified diesel tech but i took a break for about 4 years so im a little rusty
Welcome back to the action! You replaced the high pressure oil pump, did you also replace the STC fitting? With less than 100 psi I would be looking at that first. The best way is by air testing. Also, you may need to test base oil pressure to make sure that it is refilling the reservoir. It is possible that a reman can be faulty.
@srmastertech i did that before i replaced the oil pump and the new pump came with a new stc fitting. it has had the back 2 dummy plugs replaced with the revised two piece ones and all the o rings are good. the pressure gauge on the dash reads normal when cranking. it sucks that i have to do this again because i might not get paid for it again
Those revised plugs on the rear of the oil rail are the plugs to the stand pipes. The dummy plugs are on the front side of the oil rail and the revised seal has the rubber d-ring seals and newly added Teflon seals. These are the plugs that leak and can be identified by air testing the system or removal and or inspection.
@srmastertech i got the new pump in today and it is still doing the same thing. although i am gonna let the batteries charge up and try again in the a.m. to see if it will crank. and also today i found a 5/16 wrench in the wind age tray. its a damn wonder it didnt cause any other damage. but so far there has been no oil leaks and the air test has not lead us anywhere. it has good base pressure and when the oil filter is removed and the valve is held down it fills the housing
@redram20071 IF you still have low or no ICP pressure, you really need to air test the system to isolate where the leak is at. Branch tube leaks are rare but they do happen. Other than that, a restriction in the oil reservoir is also very rare, but the screen's do come apart. How much pressure does it build, with good batteries?
@srmastertech me and the other diesel tech found out that it had another problem as well. we air tested it again and this time found the #4 injector had a busted d ring where the oil rail meet. replaced it and its fine
Your 03 model will be similar, but you will have to remove the intake with the EGR cooler. On the 03 model, the intake is different with a passage connecting the rear together. This completely cover the pump so it must be removed.
I enjoy working on my own truck, Working on these newer truck, all I got to say is that you don't get paid enough. There is nothing easy anymore. If everone got to see how much work goes into a repair, maybe the customer will quite bitching about the bill.
Great comment Chris, when I first started this, my intention was to show how much work is involved. They want us to repair their $40K vehicles and they do complain about how much it costs!
By the way, thanks to you I got the same torque wrench you have, and I am really glad I got it. What an amazing tool! They did a great job designing it, I just wish the battery cover wouldn't loosen up so easily. Does yours have that problem?
I'm glad you like it as much as I do. I have had the battery cover come off before. There's nothing wrong with it, you just have to choke up on the bat a little!
I'm reinstalling the HPOP on my '05 F-250 6.0L after updating the STC fitting. On the HPOP there are "insert standoffs" on 2 of the 3 holes where the mounting bolts go thru. After torquing the 3 bolts, there is a visible 1/32"-1/16" gap between the bottom of the HPOP and the surface that it mates up to. Is this normal? Is this is to control the squeeze on the yellow o-ring, or is something amiss? It feels like the gear is meshed correctly, and the STC fitting looks to be flush where it mates.
1sgivens 1 week ago
@1sgivens
Turns out it was mating up just fine. What I thought was a gap was really the beveled edge on the HPOP body. With a little bit of oil and the bad angle, it was really hard to visually tell. Just to be sure, I took a razor blade (poor man's feeler gauge) to see if I could slide it under there and I couldn't.
I also understand now that the "standoffs" are locating pins to ensure the pump gear meshes correctly with the camshaft.
1sgivens 5 days ago
@1sgivens
By the way, thank you SOOOO much for making all these videos. They were a HUGE help to a Jr home mechanic like me. I've learned so much more about my truck!
1sgivens 5 days ago
@1sgivens Great to hear my videos have helped! There should be no gap under the HPOP. There is an alignment dowel on the block that the pump has not seated into.
srmastertech 5 hours ago
I got to use one of those Tech-Angle torque wrenches and holy crap that is NICE!!! I'll be getting a 1/2 and 3/8 when he has some sales.
35057 2 weeks ago
@35057
It is a great tool! I hope you get many years of use! I just ordered my 1/2 drive!
srmastertech 2 weeks ago
I have a no start when hot on my 03 6.0 found oil in the icp sensor and inside the connector do you think this is the root cause of my no start when hot/warm issue? the leak was enough it would drip down the bell housing.
during idle ice pressure would drop and not maintain any pressure.
cruzerdlc 2 weeks ago in playlist More videos from srmastertech
@cruzerdlc The ICP sensor leaking can and will effect operation. Since the sensor is leaking, you definitely have to replace the sensor, and wiring connector then retest.
srmastertech 2 weeks ago
hey srmastertech i have a 2006 f350 that dies while driving, it has 9 psi while cranking. i replaced the oil pump and the ipr valve and afterwards it only has 76 psi. i checked for leaking seals and injectors, i even removed both valve covers and inspected the dummy plugs. i think that the new pump is bad. any advice??? by the way i am also a ford certified diesel tech but i took a break for about 4 years so im a little rusty
redram20071 2 months ago
@redram20071
Welcome back to the action! You replaced the high pressure oil pump, did you also replace the STC fitting? With less than 100 psi I would be looking at that first. The best way is by air testing. Also, you may need to test base oil pressure to make sure that it is refilling the reservoir. It is possible that a reman can be faulty.
srmastertech 2 months ago
@srmastertech i did that before i replaced the oil pump and the new pump came with a new stc fitting. it has had the back 2 dummy plugs replaced with the revised two piece ones and all the o rings are good. the pressure gauge on the dash reads normal when cranking. it sucks that i have to do this again because i might not get paid for it again
redram20071 2 months ago
@redram20071
Those revised plugs on the rear of the oil rail are the plugs to the stand pipes. The dummy plugs are on the front side of the oil rail and the revised seal has the rubber d-ring seals and newly added Teflon seals. These are the plugs that leak and can be identified by air testing the system or removal and or inspection.
srmastertech 2 months ago
@srmastertech i got the new pump in today and it is still doing the same thing. although i am gonna let the batteries charge up and try again in the a.m. to see if it will crank. and also today i found a 5/16 wrench in the wind age tray. its a damn wonder it didnt cause any other damage. but so far there has been no oil leaks and the air test has not lead us anywhere. it has good base pressure and when the oil filter is removed and the valve is held down it fills the housing
redram20071 2 months ago
@redram20071 IF you still have low or no ICP pressure, you really need to air test the system to isolate where the leak is at. Branch tube leaks are rare but they do happen. Other than that, a restriction in the oil reservoir is also very rare, but the screen's do come apart. How much pressure does it build, with good batteries?
srmastertech 2 months ago
@srmastertech me and the other diesel tech found out that it had another problem as well. we air tested it again and this time found the #4 injector had a busted d ring where the oil rail meet. replaced it and its fine
redram20071 2 months ago
@redram20071
Great to hear you got it going! Air testing is the best way to check and verify before and after you repair! Great job!
srmastertech 1 month ago
@srmastertech also it has had a new pump 30,000 miles ago with the new stc fitting as well
redram20071 2 months ago
how much does flat rate pay for a job like this ?
Goodwrench496 3 months ago in playlist More videos from srmastertech
@Goodwrench496
Replacing the STC fitting will cost around $900 for parts and labor.
srmastertech 3 months ago
i have an 2003 f350 4x4 and my pump just went out is this the same as my truck or do i need to remove the intake and egr cooler
haileytobby 4 months ago
@haileytobby
Your 03 model will be similar, but you will have to remove the intake with the EGR cooler. On the 03 model, the intake is different with a passage connecting the rear together. This completely cover the pump so it must be removed.
srmastertech 4 months ago
I enjoy working on my own truck, Working on these newer truck, all I got to say is that you don't get paid enough. There is nothing easy anymore. If everone got to see how much work goes into a repair, maybe the customer will quite bitching about the bill.
chrisf97305 4 months ago
@chrisf97305
Great comment Chris, when I first started this, my intention was to show how much work is involved. They want us to repair their $40K vehicles and they do complain about how much it costs!
srmastertech 4 months ago
Another great part 2 u make it look ...easy....nice work
06dirtyblack 5 months ago
@06dirtyblack
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
srmastertech 5 months ago
By the way, thanks to you I got the same torque wrench you have, and I am really glad I got it. What an amazing tool! They did a great job designing it, I just wish the battery cover wouldn't loosen up so easily. Does yours have that problem?
PWRSTR0KER2008 5 months ago
@PWRSTR0KER2008
I'm glad you like it as much as I do. I have had the battery cover come off before. There's nothing wrong with it, you just have to choke up on the bat a little!
srmastertech 5 months ago
Good work Rusty! Nice of you to make these videos man! Makes me want to start making some videos of my own.
PWRSTR0KER2008 5 months ago
@PWRSTR0KER2008
You should, just set up a camera and record!
srmastertech 5 months ago
Right turn clyde. lol
JUDGERAMBO 5 months ago 2
Thank you for explaining on part 1what to look for. As always great video and detail!!
rdp2370 5 months ago
@rdp2370
Glad to help out and thanks too!!!!
srmastertech 5 months ago
those manifold bolts on the up pipe are a son of a gun
ant1986fel 5 months ago
@ant1986fel
They can be sometimes. Especially if you live and work in a corrosion state!!!!
srmastertech 5 months ago
Great Video! How long does that job usually take you?
jboydmv90 5 months ago
@jboydmv90
This job takes about 5 hours, without rushing. Rushing I can do it in less than 3 hours!
srmastertech 5 months ago
Really good video Rusty!
Chris07860 5 months ago
@Chris07860
Thanks Chris!!!!!
srmastertech 5 months ago