Added: 3 years ago
From: neverchk
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  • Correct me if i'm wrong but by "de-modifing" the reactor it just becomes a crude carburettor/vaporiser similar to that used on tractors running on vaporising or lamp oil?

  • mine runs with sea water just fine, start with gas then when hot over to seawater, it's been on my yacht 30hp kohler for 3 years now with no problems, it's saved me $1000's

  • this is some kind of scientific test on some kind of fuel processor ? terms like quite awhile and im not sure how much gas i used dont sound very scientific.

  • everyday im bubbleing

  • Looks very credible. This is in theory like a wood gasifier, using liquid fuel instead of solid wood and "vacuum boiling" with the aid of exhaust heat. Wouldn't routing the hot exhaust through the bubbler make gasification of heavy waste oils etc more easy without investing in a diesel engine? Wouldn't it also re-cycle unburned hydrocarbons? As for environmental concerns, recirculating exhaust gases lowers NOx emmisions as in the EGR system in a car.

  • Ran on how much gas? What's the point of this?

  • This system doesn't foul up the GASOLINE with exhaust pollutants? Isn't that just another way of saying "this runs on gas"?

  • is the throttle easily controlled or does it run balls out always

  • What is the reactor rod? Whats it do and whats it made of?

  • I bet you'll find that the reason the engine was gagging was because you choked that air out of it and the g / a mixture was too lean and it was sucking fuel too hard.

  • why is this not on the news why are we not using this

  • Nice, clean design.

  • What is the plastic tube that connects to the Workmate attached to?...

  • I thought you where supposed to be using water/oil mix?

  • Smokey Yunic's Vapor Cycle Engine

    just google smokey yunic image and you will see a diagram for the engine design. the Geet Gas setup looks like a simplified version of the VCE.

    In the geet system water is mixed with the fuel. It has long been known that water injection can reduce preignition in highly supercharged engines.

    The main reason for the exhaust through fuel mix is to heat it. if you don't want the impurities run a copper coil through the fuel from exhast to atmosphere.

  • What is the Reactor Rod made of? (Also, not to sound critical, but in most circles the word "via" is shied away from because of it's over use and that it is generally over used by persons who are trying to sound smarter than they really are.) Thanks for the video.

  • nice explanations....

    but.... is there a test somwhere to see how much energy take from this compare to a regular engine layout. exit energy from the engine from 1 liter / gallon fuel for example .

    or it's just diluting the petrol in water steam and heat .

    thanks

  • "Enowe"..........huh, did I miss something?

  • i do have a question.. where do you get the reactor rod?

  • How does the engine maintain a specific rpm without the govener controling the intake throttle blade? It looks like the carburetor has been removed. What stops it from over revving?

  • My downdraft vapor carb is a very simple and efficient design.

  • Very nice work. Good videos too.

    I've been looking into this technology for years and I have my own ideas but the basic principles are the same. Except for 1 thing that kinda bothers me...

    In your videos and a few other videos I've seen, you mentioned something about the Reactor Rod being magnetically polarized...? I don't see the significance of the Reactor Rod having a pole-charge. I haven't ever read anything that mentions this effect. Can you explain?

    Thanks

  • Many PVC glues are petrol/gas/petroleum based and if I'm not mistaken the PVC itself will have a very strong reaction and contaminate the fuel. End result will be Tar, carbon build up inthe cylinder head leading to pre ignition and "run on" (Dieseling)

    So as you said, glass would be better.

    nice clean test rig setup, well done.

  • @1BustedMyth

    Actually it won't lead to any of these issues. Why?

    Because the solvents and (now liquefied) PVC will cause the engine to seize. The revving down is caused by the liquid PVC being deposited on all the surfaces inside the cylinder causing increased friction "gluing" the piston to the cylinder wall. It's like pouring Sugar in the gas tank.

    Sugar is really nasty because of how hot it gets. In some really bad cases, the piston and cylinder-wall become fused. And there's no fixing that!

  • Load ... let's see some sort of demonstration doing actual work, pumping water, driving a 1500 W generator, something ... then let's change the load, like in real life ...

    .

  • I know Paul Pantone well. He is a con man through and through. I'll share one little secret with you. When he pours water, Mountain Dew or urine in the gas tank and the engine still runs, people are amazed! The reason it still runs is because the fuel line has been changed to run off the top of the tank, burning the butane and other parts of the gasoline. Because of that, there is no need for a carburetor to vaporize the gasoline (unvaporized fuel will not burn). A sucker is born ever minute!

  • nvrchk have you put the engine under load? what happened if so.

    did it stalled?

  • hydrogen and geet

  • @overunitynow2

    Enter your own challenge. It seems you are trying to get other people to do the work for you. If you really want to know if it works, do it your self. Follow the plans, make your mods, let us know how you make out on your challenge. Personally I think you will fail because you're starting out with a "No Plasma just BS" attitude.

  • use ethonal free gas

  • @overunitynow2 if this is a scam how come the info is free thats what makes me think this does work , , not like paul pantone is making cash from this

  • @overunitynow2 im new to this is it a scam ,

  • thanks for the dieagrames, what are you uesing for a catalist? in the reactor.

  • a big glass jar is good too

  • yes i had that problem aloso the abs cement breaks down by the gasoline and also the ABS plastic also melts away over time happend to me 5 years ago now i use steel or stainless would be great if you dont mind spending alittle extra doe

  • There's nothing special or magical about plasma, it's just 'excited' gas. I don't think it matters how long it remains in that state (probably just a flicker if at all) but I believe the fuel gasses enter the chamber still somewhat 'cracked'... or something; who knows. My engine runs cooler (more efficiently) with the reactor, but won't run without the rod in place. Perhaps it's just a steam effect - who cares. See aluka1603's videos You can't argue with the results of a working system.

  • as your system runs the more volitale stuff evaporates first.

    have you tried heating oil?

  • Not too familiar with the history of GEET testing, but shouldn't gas plasma be visible to the naked eye? If so, why not use a a tempered glass tube for the reactor pipe to prove it.

  • You not not test the egine running without pulling a load, running a engine is no test.

    Look at my videos, and why I say Geet system is a scam...Remember the claims of PLASMA.....

  • I'm not sure...

    Even though I respect the work you have done, the Geet system and theory is complex, and achieving good results require a thorough investigation and close following of the instructions.

    For example, one important aspect seems to be that the first time you start it, the reactor chamber needs to be oriented correctly in relation to the poles.

    A strong external magnetic field could maybe be enough, like from a neodymium magnet...

  • This system is a basic vapor heater, no plasma.....

  • I may be wrong but. Maybe the reason your motor stops before it burns all the fuel could have something to do with the chemicals they put in gasoline to retard it's evaporation qualities. A little acatone may help you burn the fuel more completly.

    As for the water;; Not exactly WATER, But an atomized mist at the fresh air intake. Water will not burn. BUT it WILL turn to steam (1,600 to ! expantion) and give you a lot more power for the gasolin used.

    Great Job Thanks

  • The more I resreach this thing, the more I see that it is poor bullshit. The claim that piping exhaust gases around intake air to break gases down to lower elements is poor crap. Unless your using fission, it's not going to happen.

    The only reason this thing is running is b/c your introducing fresh air into the motor. Otherwise it wouldn't run.

    I believe this was tested and it was shown to have the same emisions has a V-6 engine .

    Your just scamming people too.

  • Comment removed

  • It's construction is similar to a device I saw that a company was devoloping for your car. But that company was a fraud and their website no longer works.

    It was called the Pre-ignition catalytic converter or PICC. There are videos for it still on here.

    I have seen working engines that use the same processes, so I don't why they stole everyone's money. Maybe they didn't care to actually develope the system and just took people's cash and ran. IDK. Thanks for the info.

  • What does this do? Is it for fuel economy?

  • It's supposed to allow an internal combustion engine to run on something other than gasoline by breaking gasses into elemental gasses (like water to Hydrogen and Oxygen gas). My goal is to get my generator to run off of water and old engine oil -- nearly free electricity. Check out videos by ELManlinos, crazyfishfarmer, and aluka1603 ("14# HHO-Geet Pantone Hybrid testing")

  • @neverchk Ive been doing this for years, wrapping my fuel lines around exhaust to increase thermal energy within the fuel itself also vaporizing it upon decompression. Valve timing is also critical, these techniques have been hidden from public for years. Probably because most people didnt ask, or think to change/improve upon a 100 year old design in automotives.

  • Great video..... Question .... during your testing .... did you check the exhaust gas temporature.... from what I have seen on You tube..... if it is at ampient temporature.... it is tuned correctly.??

    Not to sure... getting onto my own one to see if I can add some real value suggestions.

  • I didn't check it with any kind of equipment but with my hand I could confirm that it would warm up right after startup and then suddenly it would get cool. That told me that the reaction was working. Prior to that point the bubbler and reactor were simply vaporizing the fuel.

  • @neverchk

    Theoretically, it should drop down to near ambient temp because:

    If the engine is being fed pure vapor fuel, there wouldn't be anything left to carry heat (like unburned fuel) in the exhaust gases. If the burn-cycle is completed before the exhaust valve opens, any gases that are expelled would be significantly cooler.

    Our current engines are designed to open the exhaust valves just after TDC of the compression stroke causing hot gasses to be forced out of the cylinder.

    Makes sense, no?

  • Looks awesome but what exactly does this thing? Some kind of avoiding the exhaust gases?

  • Dude, don't you think your reactor is too long??

    I afraid your small engine is not enough to heat up your reactor...

    My 2 cent...

    Keep up the good work!!

  • Nice setup, but yeah, you need to figure a way to load it down and get a butterfly in the intake somewhere to keep the motor from over-revving. Those Honda industrial engines just have squishy little valve springs and aren't supposed to be run over 3600 r.p.m. max. If I get the time and a few extra bucks, I need to get back to work on my generator and riding mower and do the same thing. ;)

  • It's not a bad idea but I imagine the heat would melt the insulation and short circuit the windings... unless the insulation is heat tolerant but I don't know wire that well.

  • i was wondering if it was possible to use electro magnets for the reactor since with electromags you can control the magnetic field by making it stronger or weaker

  • Great work -> keep up the testing :)

  • . I may be wrong as Im just starting to design and doing some numbers , I dont want to end up with a donky engine for demos but a real working example.

    Good work keep it up.

  • Thanks, I'm starting my new reactor tomorrow and I'll be implementing a better setup (gap, attn to vacuum, smooth pipes, perhaps a heat shield on outer pipe, etc) and also using automotive alternator for load. Thx for the advice; I'll look up your spreadsheet as well.

  • it uses the same formula Mile Holler extols in one of the training videos and as far as I can work out a 69 mm rod with a 1 mm clearance in a 70 mm tube would match the port size of a Briggs + Stratton 5 hp engine.

  • Why don't you have load on the engine ? nothing creates heat like load and heat cracks the heavy fuel, I was wondering if it is the limited port space available ? I have done some cacls and it seems that this design can only flow around 35% of the port diameter with a 1 mm clearance , I have a xl sheet in robb's files over at vortexgroup ,

  • HI neverchk ,

    Would a constant velocity carb help with smoothness ?

  • I think so. This motor has no carb at all, so anything would be an improvement. I will be adding its carb back on via the bubbler in the next test but the distance between the intake and carb will be great and may still hinder performance... certainly make starting more difficult. In this application the load and/or rpm won't change but a cv would afford greater adjustment for sure. That would contribute to smoother running.

  • i have been looking at the planes and i am confussed as to how the reactor rod is secured in the tube or is it just flopping around?

  • It's not secured. It is supposed to float because of the "concentric magnetic field" or something. I found that with my first motor the rod banged around violently. This motor was better but I welded dots on the ends of the bar for it to 'stand' on while in the tube -- keep it centered in the pipe side-to-side and end-to-end. I also put a pin thru the bar to keep it from travelling too far up into the intake pipe. My new donor motor (3.5 lawnmower) will be smoother still.

  • are you a quarter midget racer, i saw the tire, and thats the engine we use

  • I'm not, but I bought that gokart from a former racer. The frame was modofied Manco I think, and I had a subaru 7.5hp motor on it. For a better look at that gokart look at test#1 video. I sold that gokart locally in the summer to make room for other toys.

  • Change the air intake valve to prereaktor, it will work better. I did it.

  • With my unit the fuel got increasingly oxidized (turning brown) and so I had to decrease the oxygen bit by bit until it choked to death. I need to improve my reactor! It is claimed that by burning water you are generating HHO gas (in plasma state) ...without consuming electricity.

    Here's an idea: run a line off of auto exhaust thru reactor into H2O bubbler, then backwards thru inner pipe, then into intake system. Result: possibly suppliment the car's fuel intake with HHO?

  • Why not make one of these tapped into the O2 Sensor w/a Tee and into a reactor. Run the reactor along side the muffler for about

    12-16" and just set it one way. Do you need to constantly adjust the air mixture? If you're looking just to improve mileage, wouldn't this help? I still need to build one and thinking about trying this approach. Bween messing w/HHO for 3 yrs. and running an HHO brick into this assembly may be interesting!

  • and i was also wondering if u did a ride test with your go kart?

  • Nope. The ball valves were difficult enough to manipulate ...it would have been impossible to do that from the driver's seat.

  • have u ever tried to cool to intake air between the reactor and the engine it would make it more dense ? like an intercooler for a turbo ?

  • I'm not sure what overall effect that would have on the plasma (energized gas) that you want in the engine. If the plasma cools it may de-energize as well and then it's just gas (vapour). Good idea though.

  • well there is only one way to try and that is doing plus the atoms in the molecule just separate so cooling them would just have a condensing effect if u cool water does it change .. only after it is cool down to much.. it just gets denser just look in to it it cant hurt and u can do it a cheap way put some tubing in to water..

  • i cant find the tee joint 1inch to 2 1/2 inch outputs anywhere.

    can i weld the inner pipe to the outer ??

  • That sounds bigger than prescribed in my copy of the plans. The reduction tee can be substituted with a regular tee with bushings in the ends you want to be smaller. However you can surely weld it all together, just leave it so you can take the rod in and out incase you want to change its length to accomodate more/less dense fuels. All of the Pantone demo units appear to be made from permanently welded exhaust pipes -- smoother airflow is possible that way.

  • about the riffleing that phgt40 mentioned, could the rod be replaced with a threaded bar?

  • That was suggested as a way to experiment by one of Pantone's students on another video here somewhere. It could work but you may not have as good of a venturi effect with all the turbulence a threaded rod would generate. If you had the equipment I think rifling the intake pipe and impeller fins in the exhaust pipe would be more effective.

  • Ok this question is to anyone who can answer it.. Is it realistically possible to install this system onto a 67 mustang?

  • Yes, but it's complicated. You have to account for a variable load (accelerating, cruising at constant speed, decellerating, etc) by opening or closing the air and fuel valves together. There's a video out there with a guy that put a geet reactor on a pickup truck and made the control box out of wood. However a constant speed application (lawnmower, generator) is a more practical application. Would you consider a greasecar?

  • Oh... dang, im not really experienced in this area but it's really interesting. I mean im kinda on the same page.. but wuts a greasecar?

  • You can google greasecar and there are also Youtube vids on it. Diesel engines were originally designed for vegetable oil. With almost no modifications you could run a modern diesel off of used vegetable oil from a restaurant. In colder climates you need to pre-warm the fuel and also pre-warm the engine which means you have to run off of diesel for first few minutes then switch. My next car will definitely be a diesel!

  • Not bad but I think the simpler approach to spinning the exhaust air would be to fix impeller blades into the outer exhaust pipe. They would tolerate the heat and also potentially increase the contact area with inner pipe surface without adding too much back-pressure in the exhaust system. Insulation is agood idea! Heat is the key and I don't think I have enough of it at this stage. Possibly a fixed heat shield to trap radient heat... like an outer-outer pipe.

  • Hi neverchk and all watching these videos.Just a few ideas.would riffleing the inside of the outer pipe create a vortex?,and would it help/hinder?.how about wrapping insulated exhaust bandage around outer pipe to retain the heat and fitting a pre heater device into the bandage to negate the need for petrol to start.or even a self propeling fan at the entrance of the exhaust outer pipe to increase vortex effect.Might be talking out my arse but anything is worth a try keep up the great work

  • Great work! Thanks. Can't wait to see how you get on with your new bubbler tank.

  • Thanks for the info...great job. I was wondering if you did run the engine on the North south coordinates for 30min? and if you did what the one commenter on test 3 suggested using a compass on the broken in rod and cutting its length. How long did you make the rod and what dimension is it? and the type of metal you made it out of?

    thanks for all the information

  • Thanks. Everything is steel. I'm using 1" steel pipe with 5/8" interior diameter for the inner reactor pipe, and the rod is 1/2" steel. I haven't tried using a compass on the rod directly, I was trying it thru the outer exhaust pipe and not getting a strong enough reaction on the compass. Disassembly is key there. I tried to run 30min on my last setup but my fuel jar's too small & splashed up into hose. I need a bigger glass jar for strength and cleanliness.  Previous fuel cans all had problems.

  • ....rod is currently 12" long but will cut shorter for water/fuel mix. For used engine oil it will not need to be shortened to the same length. Different length rod for different density of fuel. Trial-and-error is the way to go at this point.

  • HELLO, you will need a NEW ROD cut to the correct lenth after the first 12in rod is BURNED IN at 40 minutes or more, not 30 minutes. Facing due north. The rod should be 9/16 rod not 1/2 inch, 1/2 is too small. A IRON ROD not steel, steel works but PURE IRON is better. Burn in the new rod for 40 more minutes, check the magnetic polarity with a compass, use more than one compass, move it very very slow and carfully alond the outer pipe do not touch the pipe. also the pipe has its own magnetic.

  • I actually changed to a seamless iron inner pipe which has 9/16" ID. 1/2" rod leaves me with 1/32" clearance all around ~= 31 thou. But I hadn't thought of iron rod. I may try that. Also I'll use a bigger glass jar or an in-line empty drip jar to eliminate liq fuel reaching reactor. Also I'll BBQ my reactor to reach Curie temp (~770 F).

    Do you recommend magnetic reading thru outer pipe or disassemble and read rod directly?

  • Have you located plans for the control value needed to replace a carburetor? IE air/fuel mixture for a throttle on a car?

  • You need to operate the fresh air valve and the fuel valve simultaneously. I've seen a couple YouTube videos on it ...one guy made an intake manifold out of wood. I've found no such plans though.

  • Teh factory pipes have a magnetic field that must be REMOVED first befor pipe use, by keating the pipes past curie tempurature, then check the magnetic field, if none than use the pipe. Make sure you remove the weld seam in the inner pipe were the rod is contained, and make that smoother. All this a very important. Thanks

  • Hi neverchk

    Great series thanks for bringing it to the masses..

    Look forward to that next test

    Good luck with it

  • my head is just buzzing with different ideas.

    what is the reaction rod used for?

    will it run on water alone?

  • Claimed factors for plasma reaction: Vaccuum, Speed and Electromagnetsim. Rod creates restriction in pipe leading to "Venturi effect". Fuel flows at high speed thru increased vaccuum around rod. Counter-directional Hot/Cold gas flow creates electrostatic charge surrounding rod = electromagnet. No rod = no venturi effect and also no electromagnet within fuel flow.

    There must be gasoline to start the engine because there's no heat yet. Once up to temp, H-H-O plasma can be created and consumed.

  • Yes Sir! You got it! Simpler and it makes more senses also. 2 valves only . Now that you thought me how, I want to give it a try also. Thanks a lot for explanation and the diagram.

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