In fact in a good lineage puppies must be capable of the stop between six and seven months. It belongs to the trainer to estimate the sensibility of his pupil and to adapt his program accordingly.
To make an end with the stop, once the certainty acquired on this point by some sessions, it is necessary to stop these exercises.
Less bad one: the dog stands still without tightening, in a worried attitude, the slightly shaken tail. I caress, I encourage some voice and rather fast I release the bird and the dog. For this shy dog it will arrive by the repetition.
It is quite good: it happens that the puppy which had premature experiences tightens from its first presentation. Everything should indeed take place in the future.
I equip the dog with the long check cord and I lead him to good wind towards the artifice device by letting him approach gradually. Several situations can occur.
The worst: the dog sees the bird and wants to jump up above. In that case I release the pigeon and the dog, what gives at least to this last one an opportunity to motivate. Morality, my feeling was not good, it was not ready!
To preserve this natural acquired characteristic which is the firmness of the stop, I hold my dog with a check cord with the intention of preventing any contact between the pupil and the bird.
I use diverse techniques to lead the puppy to make worked its nose with the aim of provoking its stop.
In a field I place a pigeon in a small bottomless fenced in box, bound with a cord of some meters.
as well. The range at which it points will depend on scenting conditions and the experience and amount of training that it has had. Unless you allow the dog to flush, which I think is a mistake in the early training stages of a pointing dog, you will be walking in front to flush the bird. By using the stick, you can hold your dog in place and start conditioning him for you to be in front of him for the flush.
Tempest thanks for a comment the can open a discussion. Hopefully all pointing breeds are going to demonstrate its genetic instinct to point on sight and scent at an early age. As they become an adolescent, they will probably start trying to catch the bird. To become a reliable hunting companion, the dog will eventually have to locate and present the the bird for the gun, and do so both on scent and sight. If the dog will point on sight, and has a working nose, it will point on scent...
Apparently this method allows to keep a fixed distance around the game! The advantage as we can see it on the video is that we can be in front of dog on certain phase. Personally, it pleases me in no way. The dog manifestly has no reflex of stop... It is about a work at sight and not at the nose on a dog which does not stop...And I am not sure that it is very effective except maybe to please to the dog.
In fact in a good lineage puppies must be capable of the stop between six and seven months. It belongs to the trainer to estimate the sensibility of his pupil and to adapt his program accordingly.
To make an end with the stop, once the certainty acquired on this point by some sessions, it is necessary to stop these exercises.
tempest0486 2 years ago
Less bad one: the dog stands still without tightening, in a worried attitude, the slightly shaken tail. I caress, I encourage some voice and rather fast I release the bird and the dog. For this shy dog it will arrive by the repetition.
It is quite good: it happens that the puppy which had premature experiences tightens from its first presentation. Everything should indeed take place in the future.
tempest0486 2 years ago
I equip the dog with the long check cord and I lead him to good wind towards the artifice device by letting him approach gradually. Several situations can occur.
The worst: the dog sees the bird and wants to jump up above. In that case I release the pigeon and the dog, what gives at least to this last one an opportunity to motivate. Morality, my feeling was not good, it was not ready!
tempest0486 2 years ago
To preserve this natural acquired characteristic which is the firmness of the stop, I hold my dog with a check cord with the intention of preventing any contact between the pupil and the bird.
I use diverse techniques to lead the puppy to make worked its nose with the aim of provoking its stop.
In a field I place a pigeon in a small bottomless fenced in box, bound with a cord of some meters.
tempest0486 2 years ago
as well. The range at which it points will depend on scenting conditions and the experience and amount of training that it has had. Unless you allow the dog to flush, which I think is a mistake in the early training stages of a pointing dog, you will be walking in front to flush the bird. By using the stick, you can hold your dog in place and start conditioning him for you to be in front of him for the flush.
gundogdevelopment 2 years ago
Tempest thanks for a comment the can open a discussion. Hopefully all pointing breeds are going to demonstrate its genetic instinct to point on sight and scent at an early age. As they become an adolescent, they will probably start trying to catch the bird. To become a reliable hunting companion, the dog will eventually have to locate and present the the bird for the gun, and do so both on scent and sight. If the dog will point on sight, and has a working nose, it will point on scent...
gundogdevelopment 2 years ago
Apparently this method allows to keep a fixed distance around the game! The advantage as we can see it on the video is that we can be in front of dog on certain phase. Personally, it pleases me in no way. The dog manifestly has no reflex of stop... It is about a work at sight and not at the nose on a dog which does not stop...And I am not sure that it is very effective except maybe to please to the dog.
tempest0486 2 years ago