I don't question that the 400 LEDs are lit up with a single 1.5V cell. But it's a simple matter of physics and math that contradicts the "full brightness" term that was used.
As I said earlier, all it needs is another 3 watts to be at full brightness.
Yes i've seen the new circuit with a trigger coil (most 4kv), but i don't have a trigger coil and i don't now where to get one here in holland.
If you know where i can find someone one ebay or something which sells these coils and transistors i would like to hear it.
I'm at the moment playing with a secondary JT. I want to light up aprox. 50 leds at full brightness but the challenge is i only want to use 1.5V at a maximum of 50 - 75 mA (or 3V at 25 - 35 mA).
I'm not sure what you mean by secondary JT. Ok, let's get some estimates of what is needed to "light up 50 LEDs to full brightness." A typical 5mm white LED is at full brightness when running at 20 mA. No matter whether they are connected in series or parallel, each white LED requires about 3.2V. So 3.2V times .02A is .064 watt. Multiply by 50 and you have 3.2 watts. But 1.5V times .075 A is only .1125 watts. You're still lacking over 3 watts. You're going to have to give up something.
This is a wonderful example of clipleaditis; it looks like a huge bowl of spaghetti! It makes it a real challenge to trace down the wiring and get it connected up properly.
Let it be noted that in this case the LED acts like a rectifier and blocks reverse voltage from the charging battery from going back into the JT.
I forgot to mention that the LED can be replaced by a diode such as a 1N4148 for low charging currents or a 1N5817 for charging currents up to 1 amp (it's not a good idea to use a 1N4002 type rectifier diode because the frequency is too high). Another important point is the typical 5mm white LED can handle only 20 to 30 milliamps before it overheats. Use t he diode if you're going to charge at a higher current. How do you know how much current is charging? See next comment.
How do you measure the current? I put a 1 ohm reisistor in series with the LED and measure the voltage across it with the DMM set on the lowest range -- every milllivolt is equal to a milliamp.
Remember that the typical Ni-MH battery has 2000 mAH. If you charge at 20 milliamps, it will take at least a hundred hours. That's more than 4 days round the clock.
For higher charging current, use a coil with low resistance, much less than 1 ohm. And for the transistor, use a BC337 for up to 20 mA.
In a JT circuit it's a bit difficult to measure the current or the voltage at a correct way.
One way is to charge up a capacitor with a 1k Ohm resitor across th positive and negative, in this way the measured voltage also reads out the amount of milli Amps.
Also this circuit is meant to light up one or more LED's with a low power as you can get. So yes chrging up the batteries will take a very very long time, but the discharging of the running battery
Where to the capacitor and resistor connect to? I have put a 1k or so resistor and 10 uF capacitor across the 1 ohm resistor that was in series with the LED. The idea was to filter out the pulses that were across the LED and 1 ohm resistor. But I got the same reading with or without the resistor and capacitor. So I just measure directly across the 1 ohm resistor.
I've read the posts in those blogs, and I'm not sure what the poster's objective was. The way they blogged was confusing.
Nice!!...I´m trying to charche one dead AA Battery, but the led losst the bright slowly, I use the positive negative to joint the 2 batteries like "Radiant Joule Thief Charger 06" of dodoshlodo user. The dead battery is really dead 0.2 volts, maybe this es the reason why the lost of bright...what is the difference about negative negative connection?
I probe the dead batteries with 0.2 volts alone and the led is dead...then put in paralel with anormal charged battery and 10 minutes later the dead battery can put on the lead alone but not sobright...I winding a biger coil 15 meters X2 wires :)
Euuhhhh.
1point61803 2 months ago
how does the variable resistor affect the circuit?
lokeycmos 7 months ago
@lokeycmos
It's there to get the circuit in resonance and to get the leds turn brighter or dimmer
Regards,
Flux
Flux4Energizer 7 months ago
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urgencyharviefcem 1 year ago
I don't question that the 400 LEDs are lit up with a single 1.5V cell. But it's a simple matter of physics and math that contradicts the "full brightness" term that was used.
As I said earlier, all it needs is another 3 watts to be at full brightness.
acmefixer1 2 years ago
@LoneOarman
Yes i've seen the new circuit with a trigger coil (most 4kv), but i don't have a trigger coil and i don't now where to get one here in holland.
If you know where i can find someone one ebay or something which sells these coils and transistors i would like to hear it.
I'm at the moment playing with a secondary JT. I want to light up aprox. 50 leds at full brightness but the challenge is i only want to use 1.5V at a maximum of 50 - 75 mA (or 3V at 25 - 35 mA).
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
I'm not sure what you mean by secondary JT. Ok, let's get some estimates of what is needed to "light up 50 LEDs to full brightness." A typical 5mm white LED is at full brightness when running at 20 mA. No matter whether they are connected in series or parallel, each white LED requires about 3.2V. So 3.2V times .02A is .064 watt. Multiply by 50 and you have 3.2 watts. But 1.5V times .075 A is only .1125 watts. You're still lacking over 3 watts. You're going to have to give up something.
acmefixer1 2 years ago
That is not correct. With my joule thief, I can light up 400 leds using a 1.5 volt battery. Check my videos.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
@LoneOarman
I already have a breadboard.
But thanks anyway.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
This is a wonderful example of clipleaditis; it looks like a huge bowl of spaghetti! It makes it a real challenge to trace down the wiring and get it connected up properly.
Let it be noted that in this case the LED acts like a rectifier and blocks reverse voltage from the charging battery from going back into the JT.
acmefixer1 2 years ago
That's why the circuit diagram is included in the video.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
I forgot to mention that the LED can be replaced by a diode such as a 1N4148 for low charging currents or a 1N5817 for charging currents up to 1 amp (it's not a good idea to use a 1N4002 type rectifier diode because the frequency is too high). Another important point is the typical 5mm white LED can handle only 20 to 30 milliamps before it overheats. Use t he diode if you're going to charge at a higher current. How do you know how much current is charging? See next comment.
acmefixer1 2 years ago
How do you measure the current? I put a 1 ohm reisistor in series with the LED and measure the voltage across it with the DMM set on the lowest range -- every milllivolt is equal to a milliamp.
Remember that the typical Ni-MH battery has 2000 mAH. If you charge at 20 milliamps, it will take at least a hundred hours. That's more than 4 days round the clock.
For higher charging current, use a coil with low resistance, much less than 1 ohm. And for the transistor, use a BC337 for up to 20 mA.
acmefixer1 2 years ago
@acmefixer1
In a JT circuit it's a bit difficult to measure the current or the voltage at a correct way.
One way is to charge up a capacitor with a 1k Ohm resitor across th positive and negative, in this way the measured voltage also reads out the amount of milli Amps.
Also this circuit is meant to light up one or more LED's with a low power as you can get. So yes chrging up the batteries will take a very very long time, but the discharging of the running battery
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
will also take a long time.
So you will be able to keep your LED(s) on for a very long time and when the running battery is empty just swap it with a fresh charged battery.
If you like to read more info on JT circuits please take a look at: overunity ".com"
Look under the joule thief topic! Ther is over 841 pages of info here!!!
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
Where to the capacitor and resistor connect to? I have put a 1k or so resistor and 10 uF capacitor across the 1 ohm resistor that was in series with the LED. The idea was to filter out the pulses that were across the LED and 1 ohm resistor. But I got the same reading with or without the resistor and capacitor. So I just measure directly across the 1 ohm resistor.
I've read the posts in those blogs, and I'm not sure what the poster's objective was. The way they blogged was confusing.
acmefixer1 2 years ago
Nice!!...I´m trying to charche one dead AA Battery, but the led losst the bright slowly, I use the positive negative to joint the 2 batteries like "Radiant Joule Thief Charger 06" of dodoshlodo user. The dead battery is really dead 0.2 volts, maybe this es the reason why the lost of bright...what is the difference about negative negative connection?
alex681219 2 years ago
I connect negative and negative and the led its on again!!!...I, just waiting..:)
alex681219 2 years ago
What do you exactly mean by negative to negative? Do you connect the LED beneath the emitter of the transistor???
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
I put the 2 batteries in paralel - to - and + to+
alex681219 2 years ago
Oke, but don't forget that when a battery gets below 0,7 Volt it won't charge anymore (well not with normal loading).
You will need too push load the battery!!!
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
I probe the dead batteries with 0.2 volts alone and the led is dead...then put in paralel with anormal charged battery and 10 minutes later the dead battery can put on the lead alone but not sobright...I winding a biger coil 15 meters X2 wires :)
alex681219 2 years ago
Flux4Energizer
Out standing job !!
5 stars, Wait to see how long it run...
fdoca 2 years ago
Thanks for the stars.
Hope your joule thief runs very long.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
Nice!
Can you tell me how many windings this bipolar coil you are using has for each coil?
Looking forward to your new design.
hth1958 2 years ago
I wouldn't know the exact number, but i know i used 3 meters of wire for each coil.
So that is 6 meters in total. It's also 0,2mm thick. The ferrit core is approx. 12mm in diameter and approx 14mm in height.
The center hole i have to estimate this one, but i think is about 8mm.
Hope this helps you.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
Flux, that's amazing. I'm looking forward to seeing your latest circuit om youtube!!
eddiejager 2 years ago
Thank you, i'll post it in a short while.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
thats a great great result. really well done. !
thank you
harpbloke 2 years ago
Thanks.
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
I will use some old alkaline batt.
currentmachine 2 years ago
Oke, you'll see it will still keep on lighting the led for hours on!
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago
that`s cool my friend, good work.
skycollection 2 years ago
Thanks.
I've made a new design which i'm testing now.
It's still running (54+ hours now) on one 1.2V 1300mAh AA battery!
Flux4Energizer 2 years ago