Thanks for this video Rich. I appreciate it. There are a couple like it but most don't explain as well as yours and gimme confidence it's correct.
What do you think about (a) making the jar/bottle air tight versus having a second hole in top to let air pressure escape? Needed or not? and (b) raising the jar/bottle above the level of the caliper for purpose of gravity helping air bubbles rise?
what if i just have really dirty brake fluid? should i replace that and if so, whats the best way to do it? just like this? wont the dirty get mixed in with the new brake fluid
I'm confused, using this method, when you release the break pedal, shouldn't break fluid/air get sucked back in because the hose is submerged in the liquid in the jar?
@BriansProjects Yes some of the pedal stroke it will get sucked back when you release the pedal and some will not.Eventually all the air will get pushed out.
rinse and repeat. This is the same... You may have to repeat this step a few times to flush out all of the air. PLUS, please fill the bottom of the jar with CLEAN brake fluid and a CLEAN jar so that you are not wasting brake fluid and you can put it right back into the master cylinder...
Missing some stuff in this video... In the cap of the jar, there needs to be a vent line for air to ESCAPE... If you do not do this, you may blow the jar apart, spit the line off of the bleed nipple and put more air into your system... The object is to REMOVE air from your hydraulic system because that's what causes your brake pedal to feel spongy.... Also, you MUST make sure that your master cyclinder is FULL before beginning this. Just like washing hair, many times you must
Hey richpin06 is this method safe on any old cars and 2000's cars because a friend of mine said that you need 2 persons for this because if you do it the way
you are supposse it gets air trapped in the brakes?
@Turbodieselracer I have been using this technique for a long time with no problems that being said please use the two person method if you feel uncomfortable using this method.
Great video - and it works fine. I like DIY videos where people get inventive creating tools for next to nothing. Some of the questions & criticisms I'm seeing here give me the impression some folks don't fully understand the details of bleeding brakes & should probably read up on the topic and watch it done so you can see the details of the system. (Such as: It doesn't suck back up as much fluid as is expelled when you pump the brakes which is why old fluid doesn't end up back in the system.)
amezing video sir, clear explanation i just made the tool and ready for tomorrow to bleed my truck cause the pedal is all the way down when u press on it, i hope thats it just the bleed out.
Does this have a one way check valve involved? Commercial ones use one, and it looks like the adapter between the clear and black hose is that item. Is this so?
Very good Rich. I tried this method and it worked well and there is no waste of oil. You can recycle the same oil to top up the reservoir. Now as for people asking why air is not sucked up, the pipe is submerged in the oil and so when the air is out of the system the only thing that gets sucked up is the oil. That is why you used greece(spells?) to seal the bleed valve screw.
@korish57- I strongly suggest not to reuse old brake oil. Brake oil is a desiccant meaning it absorbs water lowering its boiling point which will cause it to create air bubbles in the brake lines as the brakes heat up boils the oil within the calipers. This is why it says on the reservoir caps to use an unopened bottle as open bottle will naturally suck moisture from the air when sitting on your shelf. Would you reuse the old motor oil out of your engine after replacing the filter? Same here.
I still so a clear answer to what prevents it from sucking air when the peddle returns. How is gravity going to prevent this? It is not stated how the air is prevented. U need some kinda one way check valve.
@reallylongnickname The fluid is the check valve,air is passed into the fluid and bubbles to the top of the jar and can not return back up the line when the pedal is returned.
I don't get it, when the pedal returns, isn't it sucking up oil from the jar? Then, when you depress the brakes again, it would spit out what you just sucked up???? Can you explain why not?
@platinumgv Yes it will pull back fluid when you release the brake but the air is being forced through the lines to the jar every time you press on the brake pedal and that is what we are after here.
Right, so when it does pull back fluid, isn't the "pulled back" fluid also pushing the air further back into the lines? Do you see what I mean? I want to do it this way but its not making any sense. Thank you for the quick reply btw.
I tried it this way and I'm still getting a mushy pedal with not so good braking. To make a long story short, I changed front calipers. Bled using the 2-man method (only the front calipers since the back brakes are on different lines) with the engine running. Took it for a test drive. Result = Very mushy. Rebled using this 1- man method with engine off (was told not to have it running). Test drive = still mushy but better. Bled back and front, result sill mushy. Is air in ABS?
Should I have the engine running or not? I asked some mechanic that stops by at my job and he said to not pump the brakes and to just press brake pedal and open bleeder - close bleeder and release brake. I haven't tried it yet.
I still so a clear answer to what prevents it from sucking air when the peddle returns. How is gravity going to prevent this? It is not stated how the air is prevented.
@thanxx You like seeing dirty words on the screen don't you, Is that because you want everyone to think that you are cool. I bet your Mother is so proud of her son. I see an inferiority complex, a need to feel important. Clean up your act or continue to be a loser --- the choice is your's.
@gregw98 I see it differently. Who are you to judge a person to the extent of calling them a "loser" or presuming to know how their mother feels about them, based on a YouTube comment? Words are just words. It's concepts that should offend, not words. I've known people who freak out if the word "fuck" is used around their kids--who then turn around and (I'm not joking) let their toddlers watch Freddy Krueger movies and let the kids behave violently toward other people. Idiots, all.
@thanxx You like seeing dirty words on the screen don't you, Is that because you want everyone to think that you are cool. I bet your Mother is so proud of her son. I see an inferiority complex, a need to feel important. Clean up your act or continue to be a loser --- the choice is yours.
I understand when you push the break the break fluid is forced into the container but, when the break peddle returns back up, doesn't it suck the old break fluid back into the line? What prevents the old fluid from being sucked back up into the line from the container?
@moofushu The purpose of this is to get the air out of your lines (bleed them), not to get new fluid in the system. When you press the pedal, fluid, mixed with air comes out into the jar. The air bubbles rise to the top. When you release the pedal, fluid, without the air returns back into your system. If you are trying to charge your lines because you've put in new lines, there are a few more steps than shown here.
@moofushu it suck it from the brake fluid resorve located under the hood. gravity prevent it from sucking the old brake fluid. and the new brake fluid comes down.
I was actually a mechanic at one time and had used various methods to bleed my customers brakes: power bleeders, vacuum devices, and the buddy system...don't get me wrong but they work great. This idea is simply the best do it yourselfer idea that I have ever used! I used a plastic soda bottle, drilled the cap to fit a clear plastic tube down to the bottom, filled it with clean brake fluid to about one inch, and proceeded as per instructions. Job done in a few minutes. Thanks so much!
@madisonelectronic Don't know that I'd want to put grease on the fitting and take the risk that it would get in the line and contaminate the brake fluid.
@mjkanejd Yeah, why not clean the area and use silicone sealant instead of grease?. It's thicker and won't get sucked in. But really... there is very little negative pressure built here - so the grease is fine - but I like the idea of leaving a sealant to protect the threads from rusting. If you've ever broken one of these suckers off... you'll invent new cursewords - or at least interesting combinations of existing ones...
Is it possible that the grease could get sucked in ? Would that not be disastrous?
Also, I have no covers on my bleeders. Is that really bad...does that mean dirt could have gotten in there? Should I therefore flush my lines first of all? I think I have always heard that the break fluid should be extremely pure, but I don't know why. Why?
@ICUC007 I'll try and answer both of your Q's here..grease on the threads won't be sucked into the lines..fluid only enters/leaves thru the opening of the nipple. brake fluid has the abilty to absorb water in from the air. When mixed with brake fluid air/h2o becomes a caustic agent that will rot your brake lines and cause them to leak. Ideally , you want clean new fluid, completely flushing your lines doesn't take as much as you would think. If done correctly you can change it with a quart jug.
may I suggest that a one man kit which doesn't even require for the hose to be immersed in fluid, can be purchased in Australia for max 10 bucks. Worth the expense.
Tool King sells them for 6 bucks on their site. I'm sure you'll find them for sale in USA as well.
great tool and video you got there, and dont worry guys that jar wont blow up on your face because the air going to the jar will pump the fluid back in to the bleeder, thats why is better if you keep the jar air tight, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, IT HELPED ME A LOT.
@alex01978 well that doesn't seem good if the fluid would go back into the bleeder...then you would be getting dirty fluid in your lines, right? unless you were to have totally drained your lines and flushed them clean...right? and you'd have to do ALOT of flushing to get the lines REALLY clean. Your break fluid is supposed to be perfectly clean, right ?
Ok 2 questions...How are you suppose to know when clean brake fluid finally gets to one of the brakes while doing this if all you see is dirty brake fluid in the jar?
Second WHY in the world didn't you say anything about MAKING SURE you're keeping the brake fluid reservoir full at ALL TIMES so it doesn't go empty while you're pumping the brake therefore letting AIR into your brake line? It's VERY VERY important not to let air into the brake line by keeping it full or you'll be going in circles.
@royalwapiti your correct but most people cant afford to take the car to a mechanic so simple things like this is okay to learn to do yourself , providing you watch and learn to make sure you do it correctly .i dont trust mechanics most of the time they do it wrong them self , lol sometimes when i take my car i stay the whole day and watch every move they do ,i sometime caught them out and told them hang on there mate it needs more oil its not even upto the minimum level line for fucks sake LOL
Simply submerging the end of a clear bleeder hose "underwater" in a jar of brake fluid and then cracking the bleeder open I can now pump the pedal in and out solo to expell air but at the same time not suck any back in?
1. So an air tight lid on the catch jar is not required?
2. Would having the bleeder hose curve up and catch jar above the caliper work better since air wants to go up?
3. Wouldn't teflon tape on threads work better than grease?
1 an air tight lid would cause the hydraulic fluid to compress the air inside the jar, which would then force dirty fluid back into the system when the pedal is released.
2 curving the hose above the caliper has no effect because all the air in the system, including the bleeder hose, is forced out by fluid if the procedure is performed correctly.
3 brake fluid eats teflon tape and would cause the bleeder valve to leak
1 an air tight lid would cause the hydraulic fluid to compress the air inside the jar, which would then force dirty fluid back into the system when the pedal is released.
2 curving the hose above the caliper has no effect because all the air in the system, including the bleeder hose, is forced out by fluid if the procedure is performed correctly.
3 brake fluid eats teflon tape and would cause the bleeder valve to leak
Great video for the DIY person like myself. You did a good job of showing us step by step method to get the job done right. Sometimes an expert will assume a person should know the obvious but the way you put this video together ensured the person who is going to try this procedure is ready and will get the job done right. Congratulations on a job well done!
- when you connect the hose, you got air in the hose down to the brake fluid in the jar. When you first open the bleeder screw and push the brake pedal to the floor, mostly air will come out and the column of air in the hose will be almost intact and then will be sucked back when releasing the pedal... a.s.o.
- I doubt that no air will be sucked back around the head of the bleeder screw
better try fitting a 1-way valve on the hose at the bleeder screw end.
Thanks for the video. I've bled brakes a few times and it's always a dirty job. I am a bit confused with your method however. I understand the basic concept of course. You fill the jar up past the hose with fluid so air doesn't get sucked back in. What I don't get is how as you pump the brake with your hand multiple times without closing off the bleeder you're not just sucking fluid back into the line, then pushing fluid back out, then sucking fluid back in the line in an endless cycle?
1) did you use a piece of brake line just because it goes all the way down to the bottom jar and stays straight ?
2) is it mandatory to have an airtight solder and lid ?
3) why did you use a glass jar and not a plastic bottle ? are there any disadvantages by using a plastic bottle and a plastic hose all the way down as long as the end of the hose is submerged into brake fluid ?
Darn - I knew I missed something. I didn't put the grease on the bleeder, and I am sure this is why I continue to get air. The only thing about this method that is tough is in my case anyways, I had to keep checking the fluid in my master cylinder because I had tons of air, and needed to bleed a lot out.
Very nice tutorial. Whicked smart. I really like the idea of soldering the brake line into the cover. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
BTW - I threw the "whicked" in there for a fellow Boston area native. Your accent gives you away.
This is great, thankyou. Gave me confidence to try changing my brake fluid tomorrow. It's a Porsche 993 with 2 bleeders on each caliper. The fluid hasn't been changed for 4 years. Wish me luck!
Hey man I'm in a wheelchair and live on my own. Bleeding brakes is impossible for me without getting help from some idiot neighbor. I have speed bleeders on one car, but not the one i'm working on. I watched this 20 min ago, and just made one. Super easy IMO. I'm gonna test it tomorrow. Thanks for this video!
pump & hold brake pedal & tighten nipple on each hold gradually 3 - 4 times is usually more than enough to bleed any brakes ive came across in 22 years.
check brake fluid reservoir level make sure there is enough fluid in it to be bled.
top up after nipple is tightened as required to MAX level
5 minute job each brake caliper or cylinder dependant on disc brakes or drums.
@scottinfife i guess you never read the decription that says one person brake bleeder..... the way u decribe is normal if you have a buddy around yes. Maybe your 22 years of brake experience should have been cut back a tad and you should have spent alittle more time learning how to read and understand what the words mean.
@69MrAssman X2. The video is about ONE PERSON bleeding system. Take your 22 yrs and attituce with you. READ what this is about here. Your negativity is noted.
What width of tubing did you use there? Also what is the piece of tubing at the end, attaching to the bleeder? Is that shrink tubing?
I would like to create this nifty tool myself, as the concept of it makes sense. I want to buy the materials, but just not sure what width of tubing I should get without having to buy one, check fitting, and have to buy another.
I replaced my master cylinder from the advice from the guy doing my inspection, it didnt pass because of this. So i replaced it, and i did bleed the master cylinder. After i tried to bleed the brakes and thought i succeeded. i repeated the brake pressing till fluid came out. I did this from furthest tire to closest. BUT MY BRAKE PEDAL STILL HITS THE FLOOR!! WHATS WRONG?
Indeed. You must BENCH BLEED your new master cylinder before you install in in the car. I won't explain how here just watch videos on this. Then once installed on the car after you have bench bleed it you now bleed the brakes as normal.
Some new master cylinders come with bench bleed kits in the box and instructions. If you don't bench bleed you new master cylinder your pedal will never be right no matter how much you bleed the lines.
instead of messy grease try Zep 2000 (true it's a industrial product but you can find them on eBay from time to time or buy thru Zep about $11 a 24 oz) this stuff works like a clear Teflon grease & works wonders (makes a great chain lube for bikes & motorcycles) it penetrates AND lubes well otherwise a squirt of PB Blaster works wonders - otherwise great video
So when you let up on the peddle the air sucked back into the brake lines is magically destroyed with this bleeding system. Thank you but I made a air system that pumps my brakes while I sit at the bleeder valve. After I made this one man system. I found some one way valves you can replace your old bleeder valves with where you can just pump them without having to close your valves until done. Don't trust them but they have them at auto parts stores. But I will try the grease tip. Thanks.
@courageous917 The air in the hose gets sucked back in if you let up a little. The only way that air won't get sucked back in is if the hose has fluid all the way through it. End to end and no air bubbles.
Air can be sucked back in around the base of the loose bleeder screw...which sounds logical. That's why he smeared grease around the base of the bleeder screw, because brake fluid is thinner than grease and so when fluid is being sucked back in on the back stroke of the pedal, the system will take the least resistant fluid ...which is the brake fluid, not the grease...because the grease is thicker than the brake fluid. Sounds like a great little tip.
I did that. But then I thought that air can get through grease so it doesn't matter. I have never heard of airtight smeared on grease. That is why I made my own brake pumper for bleeding brakes. That way I can control it as I look at it. But they do make self bleeding bleed screws. One way valves that replace originals.
JM: I gotta tell you, I never heard of smearing the grease either. I haven't done a lot of bleeding but I've never done it and everything came out fine. In fact, the last couple of times, I did a quick and dirty bleed....sort of. I simply sucked out most of the old fluid from the reservoir and filled it up with fresh fluid. I could actually feel the pedal firm up a little. Did the same thing with my power steering fluid. Sucked out all the old fluid and filled with new.
If anything the grease keeps it from seizing up with rust. So it is something I will do just for that purpose. Never had them rust up but its better than nothing. And that is what you are supposed to do with your resevoir oil. It says in the manual. Haven't done my steering fluid but might next time I change my oil. Yap most people just leave the oil in the brakes and stuff until they sell it I reckon?
As long as it's not going into your brake system I wouldn't worry about the color of the fluid in the jar. He's mainly using that fluid (in the jar) to submerge the hose tubing. To answer your question yes you must certainly use clear fluid when putting it in your master cylinder.
@kidcool1977 no actually the fluid in the jar is there to get sucked back up instead of sucking air back up wasting time ...... pretty brilliant idea .. i think im going to make my way to home depot today
Peter Griffin??
iFleenor5 1 week ago 2
@iFleenor5 were were
richpin06a 1 week ago
@iFleenor5 more like fred stoller
S69NER 1 week ago
Thanks for this video Rich. I appreciate it. There are a couple like it but most don't explain as well as yours and gimme confidence it's correct.
What do you think about (a) making the jar/bottle air tight versus having a second hole in top to let air pressure escape? Needed or not? and (b) raising the jar/bottle above the level of the caliper for purpose of gravity helping air bubbles rise?
Thanks again Rich.
LookieLoudLou 4 weeks ago
@LookieLoudLou I think a small pin hole in the cover good.I will try positioning the jar higher next time i use it and see if there is a difference.
richpin06a 4 weeks ago
A+ demonstration. I have to do this to my car shortly, now i know what to do.
MyMIXmedia 1 month ago
what size hose should we get? rubber or clear vinyl? thanks
ciaconne 1 month ago
@ciaconne I believe i used 3/16 clear then a coupler then rubber at the end for the bleeder.
richpin06a 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
what if i just have really dirty brake fluid? should i replace that and if so, whats the best way to do it? just like this? wont the dirty get mixed in with the new brake fluid
beefcakes8528 2 months ago
This video came in handy just when the brakes went out on my park avenue.
trk158 2 months ago
I'm confused, using this method, when you release the break pedal, shouldn't break fluid/air get sucked back in because the hose is submerged in the liquid in the jar?
BriansProjects 2 months ago
@BriansProjects Yes some of the pedal stroke it will get sucked back when you release the pedal and some will not.Eventually all the air will get pushed out.
richpin06a 2 months ago
your method is brilliant,thank you
scala68 4 months ago
i found this video hard to masturbate to
SuperCrisluna 5 months ago 12
rinse and repeat. This is the same... You may have to repeat this step a few times to flush out all of the air. PLUS, please fill the bottom of the jar with CLEAN brake fluid and a CLEAN jar so that you are not wasting brake fluid and you can put it right back into the master cylinder...
larryt7001 5 months ago
Missing some stuff in this video... In the cap of the jar, there needs to be a vent line for air to ESCAPE... If you do not do this, you may blow the jar apart, spit the line off of the bleed nipple and put more air into your system... The object is to REMOVE air from your hydraulic system because that's what causes your brake pedal to feel spongy.... Also, you MUST make sure that your master cyclinder is FULL before beginning this. Just like washing hair, many times you must
larryt7001 5 months ago
what size box wrench to open the bleeder valve
dragonthug91788 5 months ago
@dragonthug91788 8mm
richpin06a 5 months ago
Hey richpin06 is this method safe on any old cars and 2000's cars because a friend of mine said that you need 2 persons for this because if you do it the way
you are supposse it gets air trapped in the brakes?
Turbodieselracer 6 months ago
@Turbodieselracer I have been using this technique for a long time with no problems that being said please use the two person method if you feel uncomfortable using this method.
richpin06a 6 months ago
what size tube would you recommend to buy to bleed brakes?
nico27004 6 months ago
@nico27004 3/16 works pretty good.
richpin06a 6 months ago
hi
can the fluid be reused?
dawood1351 7 months ago
@dawood1351 Not a good idea because of the commandants in the fluid.
richpin06a 7 months ago
@richpin06a should you just press down the pedal and hold it or keep pumping it?
and also want to know, should the fluid filler cup be removed while bledding the fluid or doesn't matter?
dawood1351 6 months ago
@dawood1351 Just press down steady and leave the cap on the master cylinder.
richpin06a 6 months ago
Great video - and it works fine. I like DIY videos where people get inventive creating tools for next to nothing. Some of the questions & criticisms I'm seeing here give me the impression some folks don't fully understand the details of bleeding brakes & should probably read up on the topic and watch it done so you can see the details of the system. (Such as: It doesn't suck back up as much fluid as is expelled when you pump the brakes which is why old fluid doesn't end up back in the system.)
cedartree696 7 months ago
@cedartree696 I agree with you.
richpin06a 7 months ago
Thank you very much for the information.
korish57 7 months ago
amezing video sir, clear explanation i just made the tool and ready for tomorrow to bleed my truck cause the pedal is all the way down when u press on it, i hope thats it just the bleed out.
armyperror1 7 months ago
Does this have a one way check valve involved? Commercial ones use one, and it looks like the adapter between the clear and black hose is that item. Is this so?
macclad3 8 months ago
@macclad3 No i am not using a one way check valve.The adapter you see is only for installing the short rubber hose to the plastic tubing.
richpin06a 8 months ago
My pleasure.
korish57 9 months ago
Very good Rich. I tried this method and it worked well and there is no waste of oil. You can recycle the same oil to top up the reservoir. Now as for people asking why air is not sucked up, the pipe is submerged in the oil and so when the air is out of the system the only thing that gets sucked up is the oil. That is why you used greece(spells?) to seal the bleed valve screw.
korish57 9 months ago
@korish57 Thank you for helping to explain the principal behind the bleeder.
richpin06a 9 months ago
@korish57- I strongly suggest not to reuse old brake oil. Brake oil is a desiccant meaning it absorbs water lowering its boiling point which will cause it to create air bubbles in the brake lines as the brakes heat up boils the oil within the calipers. This is why it says on the reservoir caps to use an unopened bottle as open bottle will naturally suck moisture from the air when sitting on your shelf. Would you reuse the old motor oil out of your engine after replacing the filter? Same here.
kwakman99 7 months ago
Thanks Rich I will try it.
kanyike1 9 months ago
ur accent is stupid. what is a bleeda? lol
AntLive29 9 months ago
I still so a clear answer to what prevents it from sucking air when the peddle returns. How is gravity going to prevent this? It is not stated how the air is prevented. U need some kinda one way check valve.
reallylongnickname 9 months ago
@reallylongnickname The fluid is the check valve,air is passed into the fluid and bubbles to the top of the jar and can not return back up the line when the pedal is returned.
richpin06a 9 months ago
@richpin06a Understood. Thx for the reply.
reallylongnickname 9 months ago
@richpin06a
I don't get it, when the pedal returns, isn't it sucking up oil from the jar? Then, when you depress the brakes again, it would spit out what you just sucked up???? Can you explain why not?
platinumgv 9 months ago
@platinumgv Yes it will pull back fluid when you release the brake but the air is being forced through the lines to the jar every time you press on the brake pedal and that is what we are after here.
richpin06a 9 months ago
@richpin06a
Right, so when it does pull back fluid, isn't the "pulled back" fluid also pushing the air further back into the lines? Do you see what I mean? I want to do it this way but its not making any sense. Thank you for the quick reply btw.
platinumgv 9 months ago
@platinumgv Try it i think you will be pleasantly surprised how well it works.
richpin06a 9 months ago
@richpin06a
I tried it this way and I'm still getting a mushy pedal with not so good braking. To make a long story short, I changed front calipers. Bled using the 2-man method (only the front calipers since the back brakes are on different lines) with the engine running. Took it for a test drive. Result = Very mushy. Rebled using this 1- man method with engine off (was told not to have it running). Test drive = still mushy but better. Bled back and front, result sill mushy. Is air in ABS?
platinumgv 9 months ago
@richpin06a
Should I have the engine running or not? I asked some mechanic that stops by at my job and he said to not pump the brakes and to just press brake pedal and open bleeder - close bleeder and release brake. I haven't tried it yet.
platinumgv 9 months ago
@platinumgv Engine not running and do not pump the brakes.There has to be air in there somewhere.
richpin06a 9 months ago
I still so a clear answer to what prevents it from sucking air when the peddle returns. How is gravity going to prevent this? It is not stated how the air is prevented.
reallylongnickname 9 months ago
Very ingenious method for one man bleeding. I like it!
Lil306 10 months ago
In school I was shown to step on the pedal as you open the bleeder. I guess if you don't have help this way works.
i8s0o0 10 months ago
@i8s0o0 Exactly i am always alone so it is the only way for me.
richpin06a 10 months ago
Fuck that for a lark.Just invest in a sealey vacuum bleeder it sure beats the shit out of fucking about pumping pedals!
thanxx 1 year ago
@thanxx You like seeing dirty words on the screen don't you, Is that because you want everyone to think that you are cool. I bet your Mother is so proud of her son. I see an inferiority complex, a need to feel important. Clean up your act or continue to be a loser --- the choice is your's.
gregw98 11 months ago
@gregw98 I see it differently. Who are you to judge a person to the extent of calling them a "loser" or presuming to know how their mother feels about them, based on a YouTube comment? Words are just words. It's concepts that should offend, not words. I've known people who freak out if the word "fuck" is used around their kids--who then turn around and (I'm not joking) let their toddlers watch Freddy Krueger movies and let the kids behave violently toward other people. Idiots, all.
pandurate 9 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@thanxx You like seeing dirty words on the screen don't you, Is that because you want everyone to think that you are cool. I bet your Mother is so proud of her son. I see an inferiority complex, a need to feel important. Clean up your act or continue to be a loser --- the choice is yours.
gregw98 11 months ago
@richpin06a
I've used this same technique for many years. Good Video!
ProjectCarTV
ProjectCarTV 1 year ago
Natty ice
HuhZombie 1 year ago
I understand when you push the break the break fluid is forced into the container but, when the break peddle returns back up, doesn't it suck the old break fluid back into the line? What prevents the old fluid from being sucked back up into the line from the container?
moofushu 1 year ago
@moofushu If it did not suck fluid it would suck air and that would defeat bleeding the brakes.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@richpin06a This does no good if you want new brake fluid in the line too does it?
Skaguir 10 months ago
@Skaguir If you keep bleeding you will eventually have new fluid in the system
richpin06a 10 months ago
@moofushu The purpose of this is to get the air out of your lines (bleed them), not to get new fluid in the system. When you press the pedal, fluid, mixed with air comes out into the jar. The air bubbles rise to the top. When you release the pedal, fluid, without the air returns back into your system. If you are trying to charge your lines because you've put in new lines, there are a few more steps than shown here.
rdsmith925 1 year ago
@moofushu break is spelled brake in these terms.
PinelochTundra 1 year ago
@moofushu it suck it from the brake fluid resorve located under the hood. gravity prevent it from sucking the old brake fluid. and the new brake fluid comes down.
ScThrasher89 11 months ago
I was actually a mechanic at one time and had used various methods to bleed my customers brakes: power bleeders, vacuum devices, and the buddy system...don't get me wrong but they work great. This idea is simply the best do it yourselfer idea that I have ever used! I used a plastic soda bottle, drilled the cap to fit a clear plastic tube down to the bottom, filled it with clean brake fluid to about one inch, and proceeded as per instructions. Job done in a few minutes. Thanks so much!
mendija808 1 year ago
does the lid need to have a breather hole or not..
jayjaydeal 1 year ago
@jayjaydeal Yes it should have a pin hole.
richpin06a 1 year ago
what sized jar is best for this system
jayjaydeal 1 year ago
@jayjaydeal A 1 Qt jar is a pretty good size
richpin06a 1 year ago
Great Job Tnx
stewart00311 1 year ago
It would be nice to be able to see the jar a bit better to see what's going on with it.
RonQE 1 year ago
what about abs brakes
kalhoon 1 year ago
Ray Romano really knows his brakes!
dancingmop 1 year ago 47
@dancingmop Yes he does
richpin06a 1 year ago
@dancingmop HAHAHAHA... Good call
redsamuraidragon 1 year ago
@dancingmop OMG LMFAO I WAS ABOUT TO SAY THE SAME THING
greekman3000 8 months ago
@dancingmop Nice.
ih8suvz 3 months ago
must you do this to all brakes/ tires
baller908790 1 year ago
@baller908790 Only were you suspect there is air you do.
richpin06a 1 year ago
this was very helpful thank you!
jinjimo 1 year ago
FEEL THE RAIN ON YOUR SKIN
NOTSODOTCALM 1 year ago
The grease on the bleed screw is a great idea! Also the brake fluid comes out better from the container if you take the cap off. haha
madisonelectronic 1 year ago
@madisonelectronic Don't know that I'd want to put grease on the fitting and take the risk that it would get in the line and contaminate the brake fluid.
mjkanejd 1 year ago
@mjkanejd Yeah, why not clean the area and use silicone sealant instead of grease?. It's thicker and won't get sucked in. But really... there is very little negative pressure built here - so the grease is fine - but I like the idea of leaving a sealant to protect the threads from rusting. If you've ever broken one of these suckers off... you'll invent new cursewords - or at least interesting combinations of existing ones...
OregonDARRYL 1 year ago
Is it possible that the grease could get sucked in ? Would that not be disastrous?
Also, I have no covers on my bleeders. Is that really bad...does that mean dirt could have gotten in there? Should I therefore flush my lines first of all? I think I have always heard that the break fluid should be extremely pure, but I don't know why. Why?
ICUC007 1 year ago
@ICUC007 I'll try and answer both of your Q's here..grease on the threads won't be sucked into the lines..fluid only enters/leaves thru the opening of the nipple. brake fluid has the abilty to absorb water in from the air. When mixed with brake fluid air/h2o becomes a caustic agent that will rot your brake lines and cause them to leak. Ideally , you want clean new fluid, completely flushing your lines doesn't take as much as you would think. If done correctly you can change it with a quart jug.
trunk516 1 year ago
may I suggest that a one man kit which doesn't even require for the hose to be immersed in fluid, can be purchased in Australia for max 10 bucks. Worth the expense.
Tool King sells them for 6 bucks on their site. I'm sure you'll find them for sale in USA as well.
Thanx for the clip.
theredrooter 1 year ago
@theredrooter Yes, a tool well worth having.
richpin06a 1 year ago
great tool and video you got there, and dont worry guys that jar wont blow up on your face because the air going to the jar will pump the fluid back in to the bleeder, thats why is better if you keep the jar air tight, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, IT HELPED ME A LOT.
alex01978 1 year ago
@alex01978 well that doesn't seem good if the fluid would go back into the bleeder...then you would be getting dirty fluid in your lines, right? unless you were to have totally drained your lines and flushed them clean...right? and you'd have to do ALOT of flushing to get the lines REALLY clean. Your break fluid is supposed to be perfectly clean, right ?
ICUC007 1 year ago
Ok 2 questions...How are you suppose to know when clean brake fluid finally gets to one of the brakes while doing this if all you see is dirty brake fluid in the jar?
Second WHY in the world didn't you say anything about MAKING SURE you're keeping the brake fluid reservoir full at ALL TIMES so it doesn't go empty while you're pumping the brake therefore letting AIR into your brake line? It's VERY VERY important not to let air into the brake line by keeping it full or you'll be going in circles.
jbentley8383 1 year ago
Some of you folks should be taking your car to the shop!!!
royalwapiti 1 year ago
@royalwapiti your correct but most people cant afford to take the car to a mechanic so simple things like this is okay to learn to do yourself , providing you watch and learn to make sure you do it correctly .i dont trust mechanics most of the time they do it wrong them self , lol sometimes when i take my car i stay the whole day and watch every move they do ,i sometime caught them out and told them hang on there mate it needs more oil its not even upto the minimum level line for fucks sake LOL
MrCohibaboy 1 year ago
If you do not drill a "pressure relief hole" in the top of the lid, you will create a cylinder and blow the jar apart
davejalenderki 1 year ago
ho riplace back breaks
slampro1000 1 year ago
Nice one,its helps a lot..
lledburug 1 year ago
Very good video thank you for taking the time to make it . A++ great idea using the jar and brake line .
cash22sa 1 year ago
thanks ,nice and simple
jtk159 1 year ago
Rich let me see if I got this right.
Simply submerging the end of a clear bleeder hose "underwater" in a jar of brake fluid and then cracking the bleeder open I can now pump the pedal in and out solo to expell air but at the same time not suck any back in?
1. So an air tight lid on the catch jar is not required?
2. Would having the bleeder hose curve up and catch jar above the caliper work better since air wants to go up?
3. Wouldn't teflon tape on threads work better than grease?
TranceScene 1 year ago
@TranceScene 1.You want a small pin hole in the lid.2.not sure.3.I will try it.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@TranceScene
1 an air tight lid would cause the hydraulic fluid to compress the air inside the jar, which would then force dirty fluid back into the system when the pedal is released.
2 curving the hose above the caliper has no effect because all the air in the system, including the bleeder hose, is forced out by fluid if the procedure is performed correctly.
3 brake fluid eats teflon tape and would cause the bleeder valve to leak
syxkees 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@TranceScene
1 an air tight lid would cause the hydraulic fluid to compress the air inside the jar, which would then force dirty fluid back into the system when the pedal is released.
2 curving the hose above the caliper has no effect because all the air in the system, including the bleeder hose, is forced out by fluid if the procedure is performed correctly.
3 brake fluid eats teflon tape and would cause the bleeder valve to leak
syxkees 1 year ago
Great video for the DIY person like myself. You did a good job of showing us step by step method to get the job done right. Sometimes an expert will assume a person should know the obvious but the way you put this video together ensured the person who is going to try this procedure is ready and will get the job done right. Congratulations on a job well done!
poundmaker101 1 year ago
there are 2 problems though:
- when you connect the hose, you got air in the hose down to the brake fluid in the jar. When you first open the bleeder screw and push the brake pedal to the floor, mostly air will come out and the column of air in the hose will be almost intact and then will be sucked back when releasing the pedal... a.s.o.
- I doubt that no air will be sucked back around the head of the bleeder screw
better try fitting a 1-way valve on the hose at the bleeder screw end.
masster64 1 year ago
Thanks for the video. I've bled brakes a few times and it's always a dirty job. I am a bit confused with your method however. I understand the basic concept of course. You fill the jar up past the hose with fluid so air doesn't get sucked back in. What I don't get is how as you pump the brake with your hand multiple times without closing off the bleeder you're not just sucking fluid back into the line, then pushing fluid back out, then sucking fluid back in the line in an endless cycle?
Blinkazoid 1 year ago
@richpin06a
here are my questions to clear things up:
1) did you use a piece of brake line just because it goes all the way down to the bottom jar and stays straight ?
2) is it mandatory to have an airtight solder and lid ?
3) why did you use a glass jar and not a plastic bottle ? are there any disadvantages by using a plastic bottle and a plastic hose all the way down as long as the end of the hose is submerged into brake fluid ?
masster64 1 year ago
@masster64 1.Yes 2.No 3.I used a glass jar because it was what i had at the time and i could solder the brake line to the cover.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@masster64 no u just need a tube that under water "brake fluid" so that the pressure from the water is to heavy to let air get pulled in .....
r1killen 1 year ago
Do you do this with the car on or off?
rocket27 1 year ago
@rocket27 off
richpin06a 1 year ago
@rocket27 hahaha!!! nice... i say you should just take it down to a shop if you have to ask
adamlewis19 1 year ago
Darn - I knew I missed something. I didn't put the grease on the bleeder, and I am sure this is why I continue to get air. The only thing about this method that is tough is in my case anyways, I had to keep checking the fluid in my master cylinder because I had tons of air, and needed to bleed a lot out.
Again, thanks for the great video.
BeerlyStanding 1 year ago
Comment removed
zachsingstheblues 1 year ago
This tip worked great! I bled my brakes by myself. After watching this video, it was very easy to do. Thanks, richpin06a!
jsoex 1 year ago
Very nice tutorial. Whicked smart. I really like the idea of soldering the brake line into the cover. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
BTW - I threw the "whicked" in there for a fellow Boston area native. Your accent gives you away.
BeerlyStanding 1 year ago
This is great, thankyou. Gave me confidence to try changing my brake fluid tomorrow. It's a Porsche 993 with 2 bleeders on each caliper. The fluid hasn't been changed for 4 years. Wish me luck!
TheWhupper 1 year ago
@TheWhupper Take your time freeing up the bleeder screws and you should have no trouble.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@richpin06a
shiiitttt.Im no professional but what are the two bolt/screws that hold in the caliper.
I have a 2001 es 300(lexus) and it seems like either I dont have good leverage or that baby is rusted.
maybe both.Is it true that some cars can have locks so you cant steal the rotors?
lopytube 1 year ago
Hey man I'm in a wheelchair and live on my own. Bleeding brakes is impossible for me without getting help from some idiot neighbor. I have speed bleeders on one car, but not the one i'm working on. I watched this 20 min ago, and just made one. Super easy IMO. I'm gonna test it tomorrow. Thanks for this video!
jeepxj07 1 year ago
@jeepxj07 Hope it works out for you.
richpin06a 1 year ago
do i have to open the brakes resorvoir when bleeding the brakes so the air passes down
hp11208 1 year ago
@hp11208 You can leave the cap on the reservoir.
richpin06a 1 year ago
22 years experience of all brakes & never seen such crap in my life.....
Heres easy way...without the video...
3/4mm rubber pipe, bout 200mm long always handy to have extra.
An empty container
Look at brake nipple
if slight corrosion, wire brush & apply wd40 spray or apply heat.
Connect hose to nipple, making sure other end of pipe in container
grab a friend, relative or neighbour
get them to sit in car, van etc & instruct them to pump brake pedal and hold on ur instruction.
scottinfife 1 year ago
pump & hold brake pedal & tighten nipple on each hold gradually 3 - 4 times is usually more than enough to bleed any brakes ive came across in 22 years.
check brake fluid reservoir level make sure there is enough fluid in it to be bled.
top up after nipple is tightened as required to MAX level
5 minute job each brake caliper or cylinder dependant on disc brakes or drums.
scottinfife 1 year ago
@scottinfife i guess you never read the decription that says one person brake bleeder..... the way u decribe is normal if you have a buddy around yes. Maybe your 22 years of brake experience should have been cut back a tad and you should have spent alittle more time learning how to read and understand what the words mean.
69MrAssman 1 year ago
@69MrAssman X2. The video is about ONE PERSON bleeding system. Take your 22 yrs and attituce with you. READ what this is about here. Your negativity is noted.
Don
DonToplessBMW 1 year ago
wow! genius, you make it look so easy.....thanks
zachsingstheblues 1 year ago
What width of tubing did you use there? Also what is the piece of tubing at the end, attaching to the bleeder? Is that shrink tubing?
I would like to create this nifty tool myself, as the concept of it makes sense. I want to buy the materials, but just not sure what width of tubing I should get without having to buy one, check fitting, and have to buy another.
Thanks.
pinoychink 1 year ago
@pinoychink The main hose is 4mm motorcycle vent hose with a 3 1/16 plastic splice and rubber hose.
richpin06a 1 year ago
what type of grease is that red stuff.
DALE97DSM 1 year ago
@DALE97DSM Wheel bearing grease
richpin06a 1 year ago
easy one is to use a water bottle
DALE97DSM 1 year ago
@DALE97DSM yea i used a gatorage bottle lol
blu3cha0s 1 year ago
Thanks a lot!
SecularResponse 1 year ago
I tried and I tried but the line kept filling up with air from the top to bottom. I don't know what was going wrong.
Smileb1b 1 year ago
Comment removed
Smileb1b 1 year ago
@Smileb1b I'm pretty sure at the time it was because my pads were completely worn out. It was a little better after changing the pads.
Smileb1b 1 year ago
I replaced my master cylinder from the advice from the guy doing my inspection, it didnt pass because of this. So i replaced it, and i did bleed the master cylinder. After i tried to bleed the brakes and thought i succeeded. i repeated the brake pressing till fluid came out. I did this from furthest tire to closest. BUT MY BRAKE PEDAL STILL HITS THE FLOOR!! WHATS WRONG?
BAC1001 1 year ago
@BAC1001 You still have air in the system.The first thing you have to do when replacing a master cylinder is to bench bleed it.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@BAC1001
Indeed. You must BENCH BLEED your new master cylinder before you install in in the car. I won't explain how here just watch videos on this. Then once installed on the car after you have bench bleed it you now bleed the brakes as normal.
Some new master cylinders come with bench bleed kits in the box and instructions. If you don't bench bleed you new master cylinder your pedal will never be right no matter how much you bleed the lines.
TranceScene 1 year ago
thankyou, very helpful
ChevyI972 1 year ago
I thought you had to close the bleeder before you let off the
break or you would be getting air in the line
cmbrown90 1 year ago
@cmbrown90 The fluid in the bottle prevents that from happening.
richpin06a 1 year ago
what if u just changed the front brakes? where do you bleed first? passenger ?
CaliCal68 1 year ago
@CaliCal68 Yes always start with the furthest one away from the master cylinder first.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@CaliCal68 Yes always start with the furthest one away from the master cylinder first.
richpin06a 1 year ago
how many times do you press the pedal?
My96XJ 1 year ago
@My96XJ No it does not.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@My96XJ You keep pressing the pedal till no more air comes out.
richpin06a 1 year ago
does the key have to be in the ON position to press the brake pedal?
My96XJ 1 year ago
sounds like mr rogers
rycaponegherman 1 year ago
instead of messy grease try Zep 2000 (true it's a industrial product but you can find them on eBay from time to time or buy thru Zep about $11 a 24 oz) this stuff works like a clear Teflon grease & works wonders (makes a great chain lube for bikes & motorcycles) it penetrates AND lubes well otherwise a squirt of PB Blaster works wonders - otherwise great video
Begbucks 2 years ago
How in the world do you get the vehicle up that high? Using a larger floor jack? Or what about a floor jack on a block of wood?
tech951 2 years ago
thanks!
andrewgc1988 2 years ago
So when you let up on the peddle the air sucked back into the brake lines is magically destroyed with this bleeding system. Thank you but I made a air system that pumps my brakes while I sit at the bleeder valve. After I made this one man system. I found some one way valves you can replace your old bleeder valves with where you can just pump them without having to close your valves until done. Don't trust them but they have them at auto parts stores. But I will try the grease tip. Thanks.
krrrruptidsoless 2 years ago
how can air be sucked in if the hose has a tight fit over the nipple if it sucks anything back in its going to be brake fluid
courageous917 1 year ago
@courageous917 The air in the hose gets sucked back in if you let up a little. The only way that air won't get sucked back in is if the hose has fluid all the way through it. End to end and no air bubbles.
krrrruptidsoless 1 year ago
@krrrruptidsoless
Air can be sucked back in around the base of the loose bleeder screw...which sounds logical. That's why he smeared grease around the base of the bleeder screw, because brake fluid is thinner than grease and so when fluid is being sucked back in on the back stroke of the pedal, the system will take the least resistant fluid ...which is the brake fluid, not the grease...because the grease is thicker than the brake fluid. Sounds like a great little tip.
JetMechMA 1 year ago
@JetMechMA
I did that. But then I thought that air can get through grease so it doesn't matter. I have never heard of airtight smeared on grease. That is why I made my own brake pumper for bleeding brakes. That way I can control it as I look at it. But they do make self bleeding bleed screws. One way valves that replace originals.
krrrruptidsoless 1 year ago
@krrrruptidsoless
JM: I gotta tell you, I never heard of smearing the grease either. I haven't done a lot of bleeding but I've never done it and everything came out fine. In fact, the last couple of times, I did a quick and dirty bleed....sort of. I simply sucked out most of the old fluid from the reservoir and filled it up with fresh fluid. I could actually feel the pedal firm up a little. Did the same thing with my power steering fluid. Sucked out all the old fluid and filled with new.
JetMechMA 1 year ago
@JetMechMA
If anything the grease keeps it from seizing up with rust. So it is something I will do just for that purpose. Never had them rust up but its better than nothing. And that is what you are supposed to do with your resevoir oil. It says in the manual. Haven't done my steering fluid but might next time I change my oil. Yap most people just leave the oil in the brakes and stuff until they sell it I reckon?
krrrruptidsoless 1 year ago
@krrrruptidsoless your absolutely right i didnt see any air tho we are def on the same page tho lol
courageous917 1 year ago
should be using a fitting wrench!
jsb4life 2 years ago
why use a fitting wrench when u are able to use a ring spanner??? ring spanners are better anyways
666starlet 2 years ago
Ok, is that some odd looking fluid or what, usually its supposed to be clear, or see through.
snowboi1289 2 years ago
As long as it's not going into your brake system I wouldn't worry about the color of the fluid in the jar. He's mainly using that fluid (in the jar) to submerge the hose tubing. To answer your question yes you must certainly use clear fluid when putting it in your master cylinder.
kidcool1977 2 years ago
@kidcool1977 no actually the fluid in the jar is there to get sucked back up instead of sucking air back up wasting time ...... pretty brilliant idea .. i think im going to make my way to home depot today
ArT2Oo0 2 years ago
it doesnt suck the fluid back up.... it acts as an airlock so it DOESNT suck back at all....
666starlet 2 years ago
@snowboi1289 That is what old fluid looks like.
richpin06a 2 years ago