One point though.... You say a couple of times in the video that the jointer makes parallel surfaces, and when you finish squaring up to edges you say the two faces are parallel. There not parallel, they're perpendicular. Big difference.
Jesus Christ. Thanks man. Bought my first jointer a month back and couldn't get it to shave the boards straight. Watched your vid, raised my outfeed table and we are in business. I was a bit miffed at the fact I couldn't get a straight board. Both ends were doing what you described as "snipe". Getting knotty alder dust in my keyboard now. Thanks again.
Set the fence to 90deg. Plane the wider side putting the hollow side to the bed to a flat finish. Turn through 90deg again with the hollow side to the bed, and the planed face up against the square fence, and plane until straight. If you are planing two pieces put them edge to edge and you should not see a gap if the cutters are set correctly. We call it a Surface Planer in England.
Teeeee heeee he. "This piece of Ash" :49.......I gotta' get me a piece of Ash. Love it! You are doin' a great job Bud. I learn a lot from ya! keep em' comin'
Hi, Just looking for some advice on plaining and thicknessing really large and long boards e.g 300mm wide and bark on the edges. . All the proper moisture content etc. The planer thicknesser im using can handle up to 300mm wide. Thanks James
Thanks for being so thorough. As a beginner I use an old Craftsman I rebuilt (it was trash). Its fence is incomplete (no lockdown mechanism) and normally isn't square with the blade, so every cut I make I have to measure it from each side of the blade and then clamp the other end of the fence with a C-clamp, and pray it doesn't move during a cut. You are so lucky to have a real table saw!
actually what i do is to keep pressure on the back as i start thru then transfer my pressure to the front after i reach the halfway point, if i am jointing something that has a ggod size bowin it and i am forced to joint it with the bowed side down the above will not work, in this case i keep the pressure on the infeed side ( starting side)...
Thank you for sharing your talent with us..Beautiful work!!! I been milling my own wood now and started to get in to wood work..I hope you dont think this is a stupid question,,but I keep hearing diff. things about the best way to run a piece tru a jointer and I'm kinda confused...Is it best to put pressure on the front of the table *as soon as your piece touches it* or the back of the table runnin a piece tru..I just wanted your thought what you do....Thanks again..I learned alot frm your vids!
man oh man....if you only knew...it takes me more time to clean up the area just to film, than to do the vid......I roll...thanks for all the comments
After watching many many of Charles' videos the only thing that comes up my mind is that he is the best old school, yet modern woodworker I've ever seen.
I couldn't have said it better, my friend! I find myself sitting in front of the pc (on countless evenings) watching vid, after vid, of his tutes...and saying outloud, "Man...this guy is good"....LOL! Cheers!
Thanks or sharing your knowledge.
One point though.... You say a couple of times in the video that the jointer makes parallel surfaces, and when you finish squaring up to edges you say the two faces are parallel. There not parallel, they're perpendicular. Big difference.
bagtown 1 week ago
nice
nirjonahmed 3 weeks ago
Jesus Christ. Thanks man. Bought my first jointer a month back and couldn't get it to shave the boards straight. Watched your vid, raised my outfeed table and we are in business. I was a bit miffed at the fact I couldn't get a straight board. Both ends were doing what you described as "snipe". Getting knotty alder dust in my keyboard now. Thanks again.
bedofrazorsqwerty 1 month ago
Thanks for your help. You are both funny and very informational. Thanks for making it real.
madpres 3 months ago
Set the fence to 90deg. Plane the wider side putting the hollow side to the bed to a flat finish. Turn through 90deg again with the hollow side to the bed, and the planed face up against the square fence, and plane until straight. If you are planing two pieces put them edge to edge and you should not see a gap if the cutters are set correctly. We call it a Surface Planer in England.
zonkozonko 9 months ago
Teeeee heeee he. "This piece of Ash" :49.......I gotta' get me a piece of Ash. Love it! You are doin' a great job Bud. I learn a lot from ya! keep em' comin'
MrHarborFreight 1 year ago
Hi, Just looking for some advice on plaining and thicknessing really large and long boards e.g 300mm wide and bark on the edges. . All the proper moisture content etc. The planer thicknesser im using can handle up to 300mm wide. Thanks James
guild1978 1 year ago
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with the rest of us.
JustWonderingHowToDo 1 year ago
Great video. Finally I can look this darn machine in the eye!
Cheers
yeasandnays 1 year ago
this is by far the best video on how to use a jointer. screw expert vilage and their hee-haw presenters
iownslaves 1 year ago
What a great set of videos! Thank you Charles Neil very much for sharing.
caseymiller82 2 years ago
Thanks for being so thorough. As a beginner I use an old Craftsman I rebuilt (it was trash). Its fence is incomplete (no lockdown mechanism) and normally isn't square with the blade, so every cut I make I have to measure it from each side of the blade and then clamp the other end of the fence with a C-clamp, and pray it doesn't move during a cut. You are so lucky to have a real table saw!
MrLanging 2 years ago
thx for uploading that video tat will help me catch up to what ive missed the past couple of days in woodshop class
BobaFett379251 2 years ago
actually what i do is to keep pressure on the back as i start thru then transfer my pressure to the front after i reach the halfway point, if i am jointing something that has a ggod size bowin it and i am forced to joint it with the bowed side down the above will not work, in this case i keep the pressure on the infeed side ( starting side)...
InTheWorkshop 2 years ago
Thank you for sharing your talent with us..Beautiful work!!! I been milling my own wood now and started to get in to wood work..I hope you dont think this is a stupid question,,but I keep hearing diff. things about the best way to run a piece tru a jointer and I'm kinda confused...Is it best to put pressure on the front of the table *as soon as your piece touches it* or the back of the table runnin a piece tru..I just wanted your thought what you do....Thanks again..I learned alot frm your vids!
jkeaton683 2 years ago
i dont trust anyone with a clean workshop.
umcosta 2 years ago 2
man oh man....if you only knew...it takes me more time to clean up the area just to film, than to do the vid......I roll...thanks for all the comments
InTheWorkshop 2 years ago 2
Do u have any videos of Radial Arm Saw videos of demo and cutting and setting up.
Steve
steveho75 2 years ago
steve, i do not have one on Radial arm saws...maybe one day...they have a tendency to be a little unsafe, i much prefer a table saw
InTheWorkshop 2 years ago
i never use safety guards on my table saw, ther is a point were is is to cumbersome
robertcar38 2 years ago
One of the finest wood workers. Bar none.
netjem 3 years ago
After watching many many of Charles' videos the only thing that comes up my mind is that he is the best old school, yet modern woodworker I've ever seen.
Simple, on topic and entertaining.
Bravo! I love these vids...
tritrek 3 years ago 4
I couldn't have said it better, my friend! I find myself sitting in front of the pc (on countless evenings) watching vid, after vid, of his tutes...and saying outloud, "Man...this guy is good"....LOL! Cheers!
C3DesignBuild 3 years ago 2