Added: 2 years ago
From: SethTheSportsman
Views: 134,655
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (74)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Great video! The only comment I have is that instead of rigging the adapter to connect the compressor to the system, I used a standard connector and connected it directly to the port before the blowout preventer. The air went through the preventer, sealing it and went into the system. I did lose that seal at one point - which is evident by a loud groaning sound as it can't quite make the seal, but putting some water back into the system via the main valve for a second helped. Thanks!

  • Thank you @SethTheSportsman, Great video. After opening up the petcocks to relieve pressure, do I leave the valves open or closed for the winter?

  • @ciavran Go ahead and leave them open

  • I tried doing this and it worked for the first zone, but now when I try on any of the zones the air from the compressor is leaking out of the "Vacuum pressure breaker" does anybody know what I'm doing wrong?

  • @KILLERKAY3 This happened to me once, It happened when when I had pressure to the system then removed it and then hooked it back up again. Seems like the backflow preventer lost its prime or something and allowed the air to just flow through the top of the valve. I recharged my system and started over, had no problem after that. Not saying this will work for yours, but it solved the problem on my system.

  • This was the best video I found to explain how to DIY - thank you, Seth. That said, I do wish that DIY vids would give names and explanations of the parts and how they work. Heck if I knew what a petcock or a shrader valve is (now I know after six hours of frustration).

  • Minor detail: Shut the water off to your system first.

  • I heard that 80psi was too much for the sprinkler heads to handle...suggest was at 70 or 50psi and under

  • Thanks for this great video. The best I've found. I've read that one should not blow out the system through the backflow preventer. I'd appreciate your comments.

    Thank you.

  • @Mr70Cenzo Thank you! Most systems do not have access ports before the preventer. In this case, one has no option but to use the port before the RPZ valve. My system was professionally installed, the first year I watched them blow the system out and this is the port that they used so I never have really given it a second thought. Last week was my 10th time blowing it out and have had no issue yet......knock on wood! Good luck!

  • Thanks for the instructional video.

    Question.....

    Is the below air compressor from home depot adequate for this job?

    Mikata MAC2400 Powerful 2.5 HP 4 pole motor produces 4.2 CFM at 90 psi for increased productivity

  • @shyboy98

    I do not think it will be. The tanks look too small. The comprressor I use is a 20 gal and that is about as small as you want to go. I have a feeling that your tanks will empty too fast. I guess it would be possible but it would prob take forever considering you would have to constantly be having to rebuild pressure in your tanks.

  • Sprinklers.iFind2.com Setup my lawn sprinklers system, front & Back Yard. $1399 in less than 8 hours. The Install Yourself Kit from Home Depot for $39 is worth every penny in gold. Get it from Sprinkelrs.iFind2.com

  • (continued from previous comment) I just ran the program about 5 times and it got all the water from the system. This may not work for everyone but thought I would share.

  • Thanks Seth, great video. I little trick I did that may help others out. Since I have ten zones in my system I didn't want to run around the yard opening and closing valves. I got my compressor hooked up and the regulator set to 50psi. I then created a program that would run each station for one minute (the smallest time increment). I then set the water saver to 40% so each zone runs about 25 seconds. Then I added a three minute delay between each zone to allow the compressor to recharge.

  • HAHAHA, I love it! Can't wait to try it next year. Thanks for the post

  • @dominicreitman AWESOME!!! Thanks!

  • Comment removed

  • Just had a sprinkler system installed a couple of weeks ago, and have been using it to water a newly seeded lawn. Tonight, I discover that the temperature is going to drop to 31 deg F, after having been in the 50's.  Are the pipes in any danger of freezing if the outside temp is 31 deg? Needless to say, I plan on winterizing at the first opportunity.

  • Your system should be just fine. Your pipes should be 8-10 inches under ground so no worries there. In addition, it would take a prolonged period of time to freeze the pipes so solid that they expand your pipes to the point of failure. Just get it done asap but should have no problems tonight.

  • @SethTheSportsman Thanks, Seth. As a precaution, I've turned on the shutoff valve.

  • If your solenoids are all downhill from the heads (and lines) can't you just open things down there and let it gravity drain?

    Seems like pushing water uphill with air would have "seep back" that would pool enough to damage low joints upon freeze?

    My manifolds are same level or higher than irrrigation/ sprinklers so I'm pushing everything out downhill.

    Just curious...

    Great video !!

  • Thanks for the great video! I'm going to try this for the first time this year. One thing I noticed was that you are blowing the compressed air through the backflow preventer (BP). I've been told this is to be avoided because hot compressed air can melt the diaphragm and rubber seals in the BP. It's not a big deal because these can be replaced. Since I don't have a hose tap downstream of the BP I plan to take off the downstream BP testcock and threading a male airhose fitting.

  • My sprinkler system doesn't have that extra cap, where you connected the air line. Can you just hook up to where you'd normally hook your hose?

  • You bet ! I believe some of the home improvement stores have pre made conention hoses for hose bibs. If not, they are easy enough to make. Remember to shut off the main water supply before you start. Good luck!

  • or just pay a PRO to do it....takes 10-20 mins...might cost you 90 bucks or so..

  • Did you turn off the water to the irrigation system after you blew it out?

  • Before. Turning the water off is the very first step in the process. Thanks

  • Seth this video is fantastic! It gives an ordinary joe like myself the power to tackle something as intimidating as this project. I am ready to head to the local hardware store to re-create your attachment for the air compressor. Any chance you can make a quick video on how you put that little contraption together...or maybe respond to this message with a step by step? Thank you again for your sharing of knowledge...wish you continued success.

  • Thanks, Seth. Now that I am armed with knowledge I will winterize our own home sprinkler system this year. I was wondering how powerful an air compressor to acquire, and it seems like the longer it can keep pressure, the fewer trips back to recharge it. What determines how long an air compressor can stay pressurized? (I know it's a physics thing...)

  • @METROGNOME57 Hey METRO.... thanks for watching the vid. Glad it helped. I use a 20 gal tank. 20 gal is a pretty standard size tank. You are correct in that the larger the tank size, the longer it will maintain pressure. The big difference with the guys that come out with the compressor in tow is that they can maintain 80-100 psi where as my compressor cannot leaving me to have to frequently allow the pressure to rebuiild.

  • Respond to this video... If you are purchasing a new compressor, keep in mind that using it to blow out your sprinklers is only a fraction of what you will likely end up using it for so portability is essential. I am not sure, but I would guess the size of the motor would determine how long a compressor can maintain pressure.

  • The larger the compressor, the quicker it can recover or sustain a certain level of pressure. I would assume that one would need quite the compressor to maintain a constant 80-100 psi. Hope this helps. Be sure to let me know 

  • @SethTheSportsman Your info really does help and I understand what you're saying, Seth. I'll tell you one thing: these 20-gal air compressors go fast on craigslist! And I agree with you that once one is acquired, the owner will tend to find myriad uses for it, well above and beyond the original purchase purpose. Keep on a-'blowin'!

  • Great video, thanks for making it available for us to use!

  • Thank you, I'm really glad you posted this video!

  • I did this after watching your video..some reason I cant get it to show mine

  • Thanks for the video. We've been paying $80 a shot to have the system opened and another $80 to close it. Things is 'spensive around Boston! We figured out how to open the system ourselves but now we can close it ourselves as well. This was just the excuse to we needed to buy a decent air compressor. I justified buying the remote controller for my system based on the savings from opening the system. Now it will come in handy to close it as well. DIY is fun!

  • Good Video, just a few tips I used to do it professionally and would do about 12-15 houses a day. First don't open the valves manually, use the clock. Second when your done leave the ball valves at a 45 degree(half open.) If you leave them full open or full closed, there is a chance that the remaining moisture will crack the valve. I can't tell you how many ball valves I've replaced because people left them full open or closed and subsequently cracked them

  • Great and informative video Seth! Good job!

  • You saved me! Though I was not trying to winterize, I noticed that you have the same mechanism outside your home as I do my new home. Within one minute you solved my problem, which was that I didn't have the valves closed so I could water the lawn.

    Thanks a bunch!

  • cool video

  • Great video. Good details omitted elsewhere. Also, video is far better than some websites with only diagrams and text, since sometimes I got confused what do they mean. One question, how do you make that attachment which fits the pipe housing attaching compressor line to the irrigation system? Maybe you might want to post a video of making one, or showing the exact dimensions?

  • Thanks for the video post. I saw this a few weeks ago and blew out my system today and will redo it tomorrow. Saved probably a hundred bucks.

    Many thanks.

  • Great Video...Thanks for sharing.

    Everything you recommeded seemed to work out for me.

    Question....on my second & third time around each zone most of the heads did not pop up or spray water/air ....I could hear the air comming out close to the ground though.

    Is this normal?

  • Thanks for the response. That actually happened to me on the video. What happens is as the air drains from the tank it will drop to a level where it no longer has the pressure to push the head up. To correct this, the zone needs to be closed until the compressor can build back to around 80 psi then reopened. This should push the head back up even if no water is coming out and is just spitting mostly air. If no luck, buiid psi higher (90-100) and try again. Hope this helps!

  • Hum..I did close each zone and let the tank bulid back up. I'm using a 17 Gal size at 80psi but after the first try on each zone (about 1.5-2 Min) the second and third tries just wont lift up the heads. I don't know if the heads only lift up when there's alot of water in the lines and just pushing air doesn't have enough force? I'm not to worried..I figure there will alway be some water left in the lines and pushed most out and cleared the values & heads. Any thoughts on this?

  • The only thing that I can think of is that you may have a heavier spring in the head itself that may require a little more PSI. This shouldn't make a difference though if you were able to push the head up the first time under 80psi, you should be able to push it up thereafter. The head will not recognize the difference, water vs. air, it operates under pressure alone. If you try it again, turn her up a bit and see what happens. Let me know. Thanks

  • I may try again in few days and I'll let you know my findings...thanks for all the help.

  • Thanks for the best (and only full length) instructional on this topic. Here in NY they get $65 for on/off service so I am confident after 3 shots I've got all the water out. Is there an RV anti-freeze to add as extra insurance or would this damage heads or lawn eventually? I use 60 psi for 4 level heads and hope there's nothing I forgot.

  • Hey Minicifan, Thanks for the glowing response. Glad the video helped. No need for the RV anti-freeze. As long as you blew the lines out a few times you will have blown out enough, impossible to blow out every last drop. 60 psi will be enough as long as you blew them till just air was coming out. Come spring, just close all petcocks and fire it up, you'll be back in business with an extra $65 in your pocket. PM me if you have any other questions. Thanks

  • I would like to know once and for all how much air pressure you can put through these lines. Seth said he uses 80 and would worry about using any more than that for fear he might damage a joint or head. Any small comp will get 80-125. So why do guys say you need a huge ingersoll-Rand? Wouldn't that be way too much pressure? And if 80psi is adequate, wouldn't a large comp be redundant? Some of you pro's please clear this up if possible. Thanks!

  • Hi Daamon,

    Maybe I can answer that question for you. The biggest advantage to the larger compressors is not higher PSI, but sustained PSI. When using my 20 gal tank, when the line is opened, the pressure initially starts at 80psi but drops quickly as the tank drains and the comp. cannot keep up requiring one to shut the zone, rebuild pressure and repeat. Pros use the big comps as they will hold a particular pressure eliminating the need for shutting zone/ rebuilding pressure/ repeating.

  • Im a pro at this i Charge people the minimum $35 per house. I thinck this video its 50/50 because you forgot missed lots of things like what if they have a pump for irrigation water, or you always have to leave the backflow preventer velve open in case you missed some water it can just drain outand other minor things. but other than that you video was ok. 50/50 two stars

  • Seth - Great video. Million Thanks to you for taking time to show us how to do this job. I was paying for past 4 years and trying to learn how to do my self, could not find any promission one untill today. All I found was writings, not videos. I am goint to do my self this time. One question I am thinking of buying a 10 gallon 90PSI MAX compressor?? instead of one 20 gallon you used on video, will it work?? Please advide me. THANKS AGAIN.

  • Ven-

    Thanks for the great feedback! Had to make the video cause I couldn't find any either. A 10 gal tank should work fine. Big thing is that it gets up to 70-80 psi, sounds like 10 gal tank will work fine. If you have questions when your doing this, please feel free to call me. It can be a bit nerve racking your first time. Just send me a private message and I'll send you my phone number. Thanks again.

  • Seth - Thank you. But how do I send a private message? e-mal id ?

    venu

  • Great Vid - thanks. And to those that say you need a big compressor....why do all the guys I see charging for a blowout use a 20 Gal 125PSI compressor????

  • I think it should be noted that this is a very risky way to winterize your sprinkler system. Most consumer-grade air compressors are not going to provide enough cfm air flow to completely empty the water lines. I have seen, many times over, people try this in order to save some money, and end up spending hundreds of dollars in the spring to repair the freeze damage. Especially in those applications where there is a hill. I'm not trying to knock SethTheSportsman, you just need to be careful.

  • Good advice Seth about going back and doing the zones over again. If you are using a regular consumer-grade compressor like this, I would go back over and do each zone at least 3 or 4 times, just to be safe. This will take some time to do, plan on spending a couple hours on the project, but if saving money is most important by all means go for it.

  • well, "very risky" is a bit of an exageration.. if your compressor can do between 65-75 psi....then it will do the job just fine...

  • Great and helpful advice the other day. Should I turn off my controllers for winter? I have four controllers, one for each zone and each has a separate box. Also, should I turn both valves off on the outside vacuum break and close the pet cocks? Of course my system is already fully blown out. Thanks for the additional advice.

  • Hey Phin....Yes, turn of all controllers and even though your system is blown out, I open all valves next to the RPZ Valve (vacuum break) and the pet cocks just to allow air to freely flow however it wants to. Thanks for calling the other day. Be sure to let me know if you have questions in the future!

  • Thanks for the video!

    It was very easy to do. My system isn't as fancy, it's connected thru an outside water tap with a garden hose type connection. I just made a air hose to garden hose adapter (home depot) and it worked great.

    I also couldn't figure out how to manually turn on the zones, but using the control box in my basement worked fine.

    Set my compressor to only allow 50psi and everything blew out fine.

    I tried figuring out how to do this last year but ended up paying.

    Great vid!

  • Wish YouTube would have allowed more than 10min to explain other types of systems like yours but had to work with what they gave me. Glad to hear the video helped and impressed with your ingenuity. Thanks for the positive feedback!

  • Hahaha....Go Vikes....wore that hat on Oct 5 in support of the Pack vs. Vikes Monday Night Football, what a disappoinment...and I live in MN! I know....Shameful! Anyway, you can use the box in the garage you just do not have as quick of a response in opening and closing the zones. Has always worked better for me to manually open. Hope the video helped. GO PACKERS!

  • Thanks for the video!

    Q) Is there a problem with opening the valves using the control box in the garage?

    p.s. Wear a puple hat next time please. Go Favre! Go Vikes!

  • not enough psi

    BOOO!

  • Most sprinkler heads are only rated for 70 psi, running 80 psi is more than enough. If 80 psi will not work for your system, you have other issues going on that need to be checked out.

  • guys came with a huge compressor some of them couldn't blow could be a issue next winterzation

  • Thanks, good instructional video...

  • Comment removed

  • Thanks for nice video.

  • Thanks Pbagaindoc. Had a hard time finding a vid that showed step by step so I hope it helps. Good Luck!

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more