i did a fair amount of research and decided to go with blown fiberglass for my home. i saw some things online that made me go this route. 1. cellulose is shredded paper- with an old wood home not going this route. 2. cellulose will retain water, so if you ever have a leak you will have soggy, wet, molding paper 3. cellulose could have ink and possibly mold from the start 3. cellulose if ever gets wet could lose its fire proof properties.
For a sound barrier home, use blown-in cellulose. You give up a lot in energy efficiency/costs. Blown-in fiberglass is the most energy efficient and best of the two. Fiberglass is much better than 20 years ago. The video of cellulose being burned is true. It's made of compressed paper. Fiberglass will not burn. Cover all exposed electrical outlets in attic such as lights. Ceiling fans only need to be caulked for leaks. Johns Manville is best over Owens Corning. Any other brand, save your money.
ATTENTION, people in northern states, Canada, Sweden etc...
It should be noted that adding an internal vapor barrier is important for colder climates. Builders should check local codes and standards before following arosonna's advice to omit it.
In areas that experience real winter, a well sealed internal 6 mil plastic barrier will help stop your wall cavities from turning moldy and soggy. A breathable wrap is still ideal for the outside.
in my opninion, cellulose is better.fiberglass allows air to move threw it. the R value is not a TRUE R value, it attracts pest and will eventually leave gaps between rafters.cellulose uses borax in there product to keep pest awa. cllulose has a TRUE R value of 3.4 per inch( atleast from national fiber). in my area (maine) code for an attic is an R49. 15 inches leaves an attic with an r value of 51. now the down side of cellulose is, remodels,now have a useless aticc( unles built up), its messy
They each have their advantages, but cellulose gives you rodent/insect protection and a sound barrier. It is also higher R-value per inch of blown in (3.7 vs. 2.5) and is cheaper. Fiberglass is nasty. You touch it and you get prickly glass on your skin. So, my vote is with cellulose.
This Video is misrepresenting concerning Fiberglass. Should I say misleading people. If you install the Blow In Blanket method with Fiberglass it eliminates all air from the cavity as well., Plus the R Value is greater with Fiberglass in BIBS Blow In Blanket method. Research it.
@coast2co I think its important to note blown fiberglass is another good product that can fill the cavity fully. I didn't think that I ever said anything close to "blown fiberglass is no good." Did I? My point was, and still is that the use of blown cellulose vs fiberglass batts is advantageous. You get a fuller cavity and less gaps and voids using cellulose than with fiberglass batts. There is nothing misleading about the video. I would advocate using blown fiberglass over batts any day.
@arossona To me you sound knowledgable with what you're talking about. I have a question to ask?
I'm new homeowner of townhouse condo and I paid a visit to my attic and notice that I have cellulose insulation on a flat floor with no joists.From that draft that i felt it appears that my roof is not well sealed from the inside. Now if I go into the attic to try to cauk, I'll be stirring up the celliulose.What are my options?
@coast2co I wholeheartedly agree that research is critical when making an insulation choice. I have never used blown fiberglass and cannot say that it's performance is better or worse that cellulose. I haven't even compared the price point. Check with your insulation professional when bidding out your home. Ask for their recommendations and reasons to go one way or the other.
@coast2co blown fbg has an r2.2 to 2.6 and cellulose is a 3.7 ish, plus fbg isnt a dense product so it doesnt stop all air movement in the walls like cellulose, i blow both products for over 20 years now and cellulose is much better when installed right, just my opinion,ur not talking about teh cubed stuff are you?tht stffi junk
The reality is Blown in BLanket according to industry standards gives you an R4.1 per Inch making a 2X4 which 3.5/8" R15 and Cellulose at 3.7 per inch a R14 this documented
Vapour barrier is a condensation maker (mold creator) in most places of the country. Also misleading if you install Blown in Blanket system with fiberglass you get the same complete wall fill and a R15 in 2X4 and a R23 in a 2x6
There is no evidence that plastic vapor barrier is the cause of moisture accumulation or mold - in fact it is the opposite - the vapor barrier keeps moisture or mold from penetrating into the home - it is the lack of vapor barriers that traps moisture in the insulation. Batt insulation should be completely wrapped to keep the toxic chemicals from penetrating into the home. The best alternative is Eco - friendly foam insulation as it develops its own vapor barrier.
@zipacna1980 No vapor barrier is put on the interior. Because the exterior is wrapped and stuccoed and sometimes even sheared, if the interior had a vapor barrier it would lead to potential moisture trap in the walls, there would be no indication on the sheetrock because they would be seperated from the moisture. it could spread unnoticed for months or years and really be a problem.
Contrary to some people - it is in the best interest to have a vapor barrier of not less than 6 mm on the interior walls of all buildings.
There is no evidence to suggest a vapor barrier enhances moisture - in fact quite the opposite is true - the vapor barrier acts as a barrier to moisture.
Arguably all insulation should be installed with a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation effectively wrapping the insulation like a sandwich bag making the insulation air tight.
worst fiberglass insulation job I have ever seen.. you get almost no caveties with fiberglass if you know what your doing.. if it isnt a perfect job it will fall down in walls over time.. rockwool easier to work with and more fire proof.. but insulate less.
i think.. we buy rockwool in batts. glava fiberglass batts is the one most people buy in norway.. most new norwegian wood houses have 15-25cm cross lain insulation in walls and 30-40cm cross lain insulation in roof.. sorry for my bad english..
AHAHAH... he says cuttose (im not sure if thats how you spell the word) to the contractor then starts naming off more mistakes made by the contractor ahaha
The boric acid also makes it rodent proof as well, a problem with fiberglass, rock wool is still the best for all purposes and climates and the most fire proof by far
I'm an investor in RI. The last REO property I bought, the elec insp in the city of Providence came out and lectured me about having knob and tube wiring in the house so close to cellulose insulation . 2 weeks later, I had an outlet overload at another property. The battalion chief was on duty. He told me that since the knob and tube was covered by the insulation it slowed down the frayed wire from setting off a wholesale fire. Who's right? The city inspector or the fire chief? Your thoughts
First, I have never dealt with knob and tube wiring, so I am not familiar with the application's fire hazards. I will say this- modern blown cellulose is treated with a pretty effective fire retardent and if installed properly ( tight, filling whole cavity) and there are draft stops and foam sealing, the combination should snuff out pretty much any fire in the walls( no oxygen, no fire). I'd probably speak with the elec insp further to find out his reasoning. Thanks for the post.
knob and tube is just a fire hazard all around. Replace it ASAP. Most insurance companies wont insure people if they buy a property with any knob and tube wiring in it.
Insullation will slow the effects of fire, but these wires get hot, and stay hot, so a fire can smolder till it finally ignites.
In Canada, there is a product, Roxul... which is non-combustible. If you spend any money at all, update the wiring.
@tivathehusky I was looking for Roxul's Safe N Sound product after seeing it used extensively on HGTV... but I understand it is available only in Canada. Sigh.
For a couple of recent attic insulation retrofits, I used Green Fiber blow-in cellulose product that I bought at Lowes. YMMV.
@tivathehusky contrary to your opinion knob and tube is generally safe- and is a good system by design. Most problems arise from inexperienced people modifying the circuits eg stripping the sheath and leaving it exposed. If your wires are really getting hot enough to burn the house down- take the penny out of your fuse box you are trying to run too much crap on the circuit.
Cellulose insulation has a product mixed into it called Boric Acid. this is a fire proof material its a natrual item which is mined here in the US. Since the Cellulose is made out of paper it would of burned very fast thats why they mix it in and the Boric Acid makes it a fire proof material it does not burn. on the other hand Fiberglass insulation doesnt burn but it melts away from fire. "arossona" commented no oxygen no fire he has a point there but with out the Boric Acid the house will burn
I'm also an insulation contractor 25 years exp. I do both batt and blown insulation. Its obvious to me that this guy just does blown. There is misinformation going on here. R-30 batt insulation is typically 9 inches not 12. That would be an R-38. Each type of insulation has its pros and cons. I do both so I have no agenda, except making sure the customer gets a good job at a fair price.
This guy does whatever the client wants. As I have stated before, we have upcoming videos on our building process video series that cover a home which is completely batts. We do both so there is no agenda here, either. I have a preference based on my experience. That is all.
I'm an insulation contractor. Cellulose is by far a better product ACROSS THE BOARD then fiberglass; it's more effieicent, more effective, longer-lasting and safer. It has a higher R-value per inch and many more advantages. Today's cellulose is 'stabilized' and won't settle or pack much if at all. It's also resistant to rodents, insects and mold. Fiberglass, for all intents & purposes, is evil: it itches, rats live in it and it settles. Fact R30 in fiberglass is 12", Cellulose reuires just 8
I work for a wx outfit in MD. Weve got a few houses lately that had fiberglass previously blown into the walls, holes that were created were not sealed up and left the house insulated but very leaky. In on case they drilled into the outside walls and covered up with vinyl siding on another they cut holes in plaster and covered it up with paneling..... we spent says trying to caulk trim and seams and still couldnt reach our cfm goal. If it was cellulose in the walls they wouldve been much better.
I love all of these posts about how people love the idea of cellulose, and the reasons why..........funny how none of those reasons are.....the extra cost will pay for itself in x amount of time......because x is = never page full of people who want to pay 15 dollars a month on interest to save 5???? thank god for the fact that americas contractors arent as dumb as the costumer, or cellulose and foam might actually compete with fiberglass, which they have failed to do for 40 years...
The fact is that cost to install cellulose vs fiberglass batts is running almost the same now. I have actually recieved bids to install cellulose for the same as batts. Material cost may be higher but labor is way down. I have spoken to insulation contractors we work with here in Vegas whose majority business now is blown in cellulose, not batts. Now we will see what method wins out over time as cost has become less of an issue.
That is NOT a fact. Great, home building tips from the worst housing market in the country!!!! Here in the midwest, blown cellulose totals twice the cost of batts.(in walls) AND LET ME REPEAT, WE ARE TALKING ABOUT 10% OF THE EXTERIOR SURFACE AREA OF A HOUSE(the walls) So I guess your TRYING to compare install costs, and still ignoring the MOST IMPORTANT PART...............DOES IT SAVE THE COSTUMER MONEY???? RARELY TO NEVER is the correct answer.
Your insulation contractor has you bent over, even if material was the same, even if labor time was similar, blowing cellulose into walls requires 20,000$ worth of equipment, and AT LEAST two people, so if they bid both the same, they are retarded, or they are bending you over! You will see more btu loss from your smallest window, than you will see btu saved by converting your walls to cellulose. you are another reason home builders should be required to be either BPI or HERS certified.
I install fiberglass, cellulose, and foam. I have electricity bills from customers with each. There is a cost savings from fiberglass to cellulose and another from cellulose to foam, however the initial investment differences between fiberglass and cellulose create an easily justifiable ratio while the same cost/benefit ratio from cellulose to foam is tougher to sell. This leaves cellulose as the clear choice. All other allegations (corrosive, settling, etc.) are simpply marketing myths.
I am an energy auditor, and comparing energy bills is proof of your ignorance. There are far too many variables included into an energy bill, there are far too many differences with how people want to live, and where. My home was 1/4 the energy bill of my foam neighbors per sqft. Because they prefer different temps, they leave lights on, so on. But when my 3200sqft house all fiberglass averaged a TOTAL of 64$ month, I have a base load of 48$ to heat/cool my house 16$/month, YOU NEED EDUCATION
I am not sure why you choose this forum to vent obvious frustrations and launch personal attacks, but I have a degree in engineering that allows me to technically explain to my customers how these products differ. I am also not sure of what you are trying to accomplish with the things you are saying. They are just plain lies. I am not going to spend any more time on this if we are not going to debate with the truth. Good luck in your misguided endeavor. BTW, HERS raters refer us customers.
engineer? sure bud! I hope those years of calc and english are really helping you in the insulation business:} Todays hvac systems, and home tightness, and radiant barriers FAR outweigh(depending on climate) r-value. ESPECIALLY in walls! Where else should I vent my frustration towards people who claim to preach the TRUTH? are really just selling you sht that will never pay itself back in the avg 5years an american customer will live there. REALTORS DONT CARE and home value doesnt change
Water heaters in some areas are out-consuming the hvac. there are very few places in this country that are cold enough year round to maybe justify cellulose. My bills were honest, kansas climate. year2 wife got used hot tub for free, base load 84$/month peak 128$ ouch. get your hers buddy, ask him for the sheet that you fill out to find the cost return date, notice they dont figure on interest? ninety what percent of people in the US pay it on AT LEAST there home?Attic ducts should be outlawed.
Yeah this is a video about insulation,not vocabulary, but I tend to agree with Centertree. The main and root meaning of ingest is to "take in as FOOD for digestion. Take into the STOMACH." I didn't see one mention of ingestion as inhalation in the web dictionarys i searched. I laughed a little too when i read the "ingestion of fiberglass" statement. Oh well just my 2 cents. Ok back to the real topic at hand. I would rather BREATHE cellulose than fiberglass, That is if I did not use a mask!
""Ingestion of fiberglass is no more dangerous than ingestion fibrous wood (cellulose). EPA study has proven this. It is on their website I have seen it go there yourself."" >>> WOW, I didn't realize people are out there EATING this stuff!??!! Can BEEF or potatoes be used to insulate my attic?
why so much hate for americas number 1 choice in wall insulation, fiberglass batting? Do people forget that insulated exterior wall makes up about 10% of the total exterior surface area inside of your house? I too have a thermal camera and have seen many attics, walls, yet i still prefer blown fiberglass, in the attic, batting on walls. One reason being that most of the attics I am having to FIX are cellulose. Wall wise you just wont save enough to pay the extra cost for cellulose.
No hate. No hate. I have just had better experience with blown in cellulose and believe it is the better option. Again, I hear great things about blown fiberglass and have seen the installation. very clean.
As for insulation in the rafters...When we batt the rafters or blow the rafters it is only if the attic is to be within the conditioned space. That means the attic is not seperate from the home. If it is, you must insulate between the living space and the attic.
I can feel the love between Ludeduphorsecock & gotveggieoil it's radiating and heating up the room, fantastic keep it going. What's the most eco friendly insulation? Cant get more sustainable than sheep wool, have look at black mountain insulation or Thermafleece. Uk based unfortunately
Because insulation, energy efficiency and environmental issues are all related, there seems to be a ton of new products that focus on being environmentally friendly. There is a cotton based batt now from recylced jeans that is becoming popular. The problem is that currently ALL these products cannot be produced as affordably as fiberglass or cellulose-So... those 2 are typically the choices-with the more expensive spray foam coming in third but gaining ground.
I too have been in the business for ten years and have had a chance to install insulation every way possible.Why did you not mention that it is a WET sray cellulose system that usually on an average house puts 500 hundred gallons of water in you walls.The company I worked for had numerous lawsuitsover mold and settling issues.WETSRAY cellulose is by far the worst way to insulate as far as im concerned.Have you ever heard of blown in fiberglass? That is guaranteed not to settle.
WOW, you sound so informative and negative, but you failed to mention that all of those mold problems are caused by the contractor not letting the cellulose dry, you and i both know that you have to wait a few days before sheetrocking, but we both know contractors are in a hurry and fail to do that. So you are correct that it will mold, if your contractor is a complete retard. Try to give all your info before trashing the best possible insulator for the money. Dont give me agenda driven crap.
Cellulose is treated with Boric acid to give it fire and insect retardency. This will cause corrosion with any metal that it come in contact with.
In the attic you have to overblow cellulose by at least 40% to retain the desired r-value due to settling. This is and Underwriters Lab. proven FACT.
Ingestion of fiberglass is no more dangerous than ingestion fibrous wood (cellulose). EPA study has proven this. It is on their website I have seen it go there yourself.
Thank you for your post. I am biased. I have used both fiberglass and blown cellulose and have found that using cellulose results in a higher R-value with less hassle.
In an upcoming video, we cover using batts exclusively in a project currently underway. Using batts cost us 5 days on the project because return calls to fix gaps, voids, compression, and unwrapped pipe and wire in the walls. The end result was a sufficiently insulated house but it will NEVER have the R-value a blown house would.
I have been in the insulation business for 14 years. I am not trying to diminish your experience, just giving context.
You did not address the Boric Acid issue.
You did not address the issue of having to overblow to retain r-value.
When it comes to any fiber (cellulose or glass)compression is a bad thing because it is the air pockets created during install that perform the insulating. A system like Pro Pink Complete (blown walls) performs better in every way when compared to cellulose.
Blown Fiberglass is another fantastic product. The blown in application, whether cellulose or fiberglass, is superior to batts. When I get the opportunity, we will do a video on blown fiberglass. Thanks again for your post.
I have done remodel, restoration work as well and haven't seen any problems with metal that has had extended exposure to borate cellulose.
We net the top cord and insulate the envelope of the attic. There is not settling.
Did you just try and say that fiberglass insulation has no health risks? Do you know what fiberglass does to lungs? And the fact that it takes more than 7 times more energy to produce and then ship than cellulose. There is no comparison cellulose is the only way to insulate, for the saving and for the eco value.
Lets try this again, and no I did not say Fiberglass had no health risks.
My words: "Ingestion of fiberglass is no more dangerous than ingestion fibrous wood (cellulose)."
Manufacturing fiberglass uses no water in the process, whereas cellulose heavily uses water that has to be re-treated once it goes through the process.
Considering that it takes three times the amount of installed cellulose to equal the insulating power of glass.
Owens Corning is the largest glass recycler in the world.
get your bad information from, fiberglass is the same or worse compared to r-factor and weight. What exactly are you tryhing to get done here. And cellulose is 85% recycled the other 15% is the boran. Fiberglass goes no where close to that, and it has to be shipped in from farth manufacturers. Cellulose is the only way to go, unless you are selling fiberglass, and goodluck selling a bad product for more money. Because fiberglass sucks itchy balls
Obviously you have no ability to understand the meaning of words in the English language....Ingestion does not only mean eating you imbecile..Ingestion has multiple meanings. In the context that I meant the ingestion by inhalation. I will hold your hand since you do not have the ability to deduce the meaning from the context given. When installing with either materials fibrous dust is created and when compared, cellulose generates multiple times more than fiberglas.
Actually I was just being tongue-in-cheek to add some humor here,,,BUT,>> thanks for clarifying YOUR stupidity. I mean if YOU are foolish enough to install either product without proper resporatory safety gear, then it is clearly YOU who are the "imbecile".
Anyone who knows anything about recycling knows that the return on recycled glass is much more than pulp.
I have manufactured fiberglass for both JM and Owens Corning for 4 years and sold it for 10 years for Owens Corning. I think I know something about the category. All third partys (objective) will state that the long term performance of cellulose (especially in the attic) diminishes as the air pockets become compressed over time.
You have twisted the truth enough for today, go to bed and rest up for your next day of twisting and completing what ever your agenda maybe. What about cellulose keep out bugs and animals? Fiberglass actually atracts them. The saviings, i just can see how anyone could go fiberglass over cellulose. I just do know how you could.
I haven't heard of that being an issue if there is proper installation. If there has been a poor blow-in ( gaps allowed behind pipes etc.) I could see vibration shaking material loose and having cellulose collapse into a gap. What is a danger is the removal of material by subsequent contractors when they do finish work or repairs. It is supposed to be replaced but often, a lazy contractor will leave out or dispose of excess cellulose material. Gaps then can lead to falling insulation in walls.
Hands down cellulose beats ALL insulations even spray foam (i spray for a living. You get the highest r value where it counts in the attic. foam is not green period even the soy base is only 18% soy the rest is petro chemicals.
Cellulose wont burn. Hmmmmm
And the biggest reason fiberglass is the worst is the fact it causes cancer. Anyone ever read the fiberglass lables?
For those who want to know i have 2 inches of foam for the air seal and cellulose on top of that.
Thanks for the comments. Our insulation contractors do foam seal at all exterior wall penetrations(wire, pipe, etc.) but using a layer of 2" foam and then cellulose sounds like a very good process.
Didnt I read somewhere that using a moisture barrier on your ceiling is a bad idea?(foam panels) And dont you know that fiberglass can be blown in up to r-60? CELLULOSE WILL BURN, it is fire retardant NOT FIRE PROOF, smolders for a givin time than POOOOOOF takes off like paper would!
I have to disagree. I have seen the tests hands on. open flame to borate treated cellulose as well as side by side burns of homes insulated with cellulose versus batts. Cellulose does not ignite under open flame and significantly slows the spread of fire compared to fiberglass batts.
there is a youtube video of cellulose igniting under an open flame.....maybe its a fake..... Not one bit of proof here, or anywhere that proves cellusose vs. batting in walls will ever save you the extra cost. Because it wont.......same as foam. Walls make up about 10% of the external surface area of your house, go r-1million if you want, but it wont matter much.
I too have seen the test burn, put on by a cellulose manufacturer. The only manufacturer with a history of MAJOR fire issues until they started treating it. Now 15% of cellulose is boric acid, and can be blown wet, and left that way, perfect for a burn test. If your dumb enough to think that your homes insulation can, or will ever save your life, is close to planning on spending your millions from the lottery!
Cellulose will burn. Cellulose Insulation, treated with fire retardent compounds, will not. If it somehow increased the probability of fire or promoted the spread of fire, the International Building Code would not allow it to be used in construction. On the contrary, the density of cellulose insulation inhibits the ignition and spread of fire due to the decrease in air flow through the material. For this same reason, it has far greater thermal performance despite similar R-values.
As an owner/installer for over 15 years, I can tell you that cellulose does not compare to pure blown fiberglass.R-Values, longevity, moisture problems etc. Fiberglass batts are a thing of the past.
I have heard some real positive remarks about blown fiberglass. As an owner/installer, can you share the specific aspects of blown fiberglass that make you feel it is superior to blown cellulose? How does cost of installation compare? What is the R-Value per Inch, how does that match up with blown cellulose? Are there any negatives? I haven't used blown fiberglass on any projects that I have worked. Thanks for watching the video.
Note that at the project we visited they were using non-faced batts. Faced batts install flush to studs or trusses. Non-faced batts are harder to place correctly. They get pushed into the cavity too far, leaving the gaps that are clearly evident against the studs and trusses in the video.
We will be using batts on an upcoming project at the request of the homeowner to save money. I will simply have to monitor the installation closely and make sure that all penetrations are foam sealed prior.
In my opinion cellulose settles, normal yellow fiberglass dosent. Instead of cellulose I would recommend OPTIMA fiberglass, by CertainTeed, this dosent settle, and to this day im installing this.
If batts are installed meticulously and spray foam is used to seal penetrations and reduce air movement, it is suitable insulation. Blown cellulose installation requires far less concern and labor because the material is shot in and around all wires, pipes etc and simply shaved off. In addition, the leftover material is recycled.
If the fiberglass is not flush with the face of the studs AND properly installed in front of and behind all wires, pipes etc, gaps and voids result.
If you think that Fiberglass is as good as or better than Cellulose I would challenge you to use a Thermal Imaging camera and look at the air leakage that you get from fiberglass compared to cellulose. Also don't forget that cellulose is made of paper which has no health effect and then think about what they use to make fiberglass. I know which one I would rather have in my house.
If you think that Fiberglass is as good as or better than Cellulose I would challenge you to use a Thermal Imaging camera and look at the air leakage that you get from fiberglass compared to cellulose. Also don't forget that cellulose is made of paper which has no health effect and then think about what they use to make fiberglass. I know which one I would rather have in my house.
I am a big fan of blown in fiberglass because of the 'full cavity' fact you mention here, and the fact that it's environmentally sound, dry, non-organic (won't support mold, critters, etc), non-settling, and still affordable. Both cellulose and blown fiberglass are superior to batts, with dry-blown fiberglass at the top of the chart. I'd be happy to invite you to one of our jobs to check out our process.
Wood is an organic product as well but it is still the preferred product for residential construction. If ANY portion of your interior wall gets wet and cannot dry, there is a potential for mold.
Testing has been done that proves a house insulated with blown cellulose will burn slower than a house with batts. This is because a full wall cavity will allow less air movement while gaps and voids common to batt insulation allow convection and let the fire spread more quickly.
I'm sorry I haven't responded. That is a fantastic idea. There are a number of different insulation products out there- Spray Foam, blown cellulose, AND blown fiberglass are all very good when properly installed. The spray foam seals up the best, however is far more expensive. Both blown cellulose and blown fiberglass have become very popular. I would imagine that cellulose would be a bit safer to install because of the flying particles.
Blown Cellulose can be installed wet or dry. Wet installation is standard for most of the home. The wet product comes out sticky and stays in place. Residual material is shaved off flush to the studs.( material must dry before drywall installation)
Dry cellulose installation calls for netting to be stapled to studs or joists and the dry product being blown into the empty cavities between studs or joists. The typical attic installation is dry and is blown in from above between the joists.
Thanks. Great information. It is clear that the blown cellulose with netting is superior and desirable in most areas of application. I saw a situation where the GC didn't want cellulose blown into the stud cavities because they preferred to glue the drywall. In this vid the studs appear nice and clean, leaving plenty of bite area for the glue between the studs. Did you take any measures while fastening the mesh to prevent the cellulose from getting under the mesh and onto the face of the studs?
Good point. When I was working as a superintendent with a residential track builder, there were times that the insulation crew would overfill the mesh in walls taking dry blown-in cellulose. This causes drywall to bow out and so the hangers would simply begin tearing out insulation so they could hang their product straight. At that point it becomes the nightmare of explaining to the insulation company that it was ACTUALLY their fault to begin with and get it fixed.
Yes, isn't overlap of the trades fun? One job I was on, the mesh had been installed. The next day it was down and fiberglass bats were being used because the drywall contractor wouldn't install over blown cellulose.
Thanks for the information. I am always interested in different types of building materials especially if they are environmentally friendly or increase efficiency. I do some research on the product.
i did a fair amount of research and decided to go with blown fiberglass for my home. i saw some things online that made me go this route. 1. cellulose is shredded paper- with an old wood home not going this route. 2. cellulose will retain water, so if you ever have a leak you will have soggy, wet, molding paper 3. cellulose could have ink and possibly mold from the start 3. cellulose if ever gets wet could lose its fire proof properties.
blown fiberglass- for me!
luvthisoldhome 2 months ago
these comments show that you'll never get the same answer to the same question.
dancerbabe1978 3 months ago
For a sound barrier home, use blown-in cellulose. You give up a lot in energy efficiency/costs. Blown-in fiberglass is the most energy efficient and best of the two. Fiberglass is much better than 20 years ago. The video of cellulose being burned is true. It's made of compressed paper. Fiberglass will not burn. Cover all exposed electrical outlets in attic such as lights. Ceiling fans only need to be caulked for leaks. Johns Manville is best over Owens Corning. Any other brand, save your money.
Booyaa00777 4 months ago
good job with this video. that fiberglass always has gaps and also allow airs to move threw it.
cotequadsport 5 months ago
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Fibreglass batts tend to break down over time, they provide a smaller long term value than cellulose insulation.
homesinsulation 6 months ago
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Fiberglass is torture, I won't bring it anywhere near me.
VerumAdNauseam 9 months ago
Fiberglass is torture, I won't bring it anywhere near me.
VerumAdNauseam 9 months ago
ATTENTION, people in northern states, Canada, Sweden etc...
It should be noted that adding an internal vapor barrier is important for colder climates. Builders should check local codes and standards before following arosonna's advice to omit it.
In areas that experience real winter, a well sealed internal 6 mil plastic barrier will help stop your wall cavities from turning moldy and soggy. A breathable wrap is still ideal for the outside.
hagenar 9 months ago
in my opninion, cellulose is better.fiberglass allows air to move threw it. the R value is not a TRUE R value, it attracts pest and will eventually leave gaps between rafters.cellulose uses borax in there product to keep pest awa. cllulose has a TRUE R value of 3.4 per inch( atleast from national fiber). in my area (maine) code for an attic is an R49. 15 inches leaves an attic with an r value of 51. now the down side of cellulose is, remodels,now have a useless aticc( unles built up), its messy
cotequadsport 11 months ago
@cotequadsport Stop acting like you know what you're talking about, faggot.
AmberIsSeXXXy 11 months ago
They each have their advantages, but cellulose gives you rodent/insect protection and a sound barrier. It is also higher R-value per inch of blown in (3.7 vs. 2.5) and is cheaper. Fiberglass is nasty. You touch it and you get prickly glass on your skin. So, my vote is with cellulose.
mistascott007 1 year ago
Who Batted this place?? Fluffy not Stuffy Boys! And if you split you batts and Chink gaps you'll get damn near whatever your batts r value is.
Cellulose is a pain to work with and while its cheap will never perform the way bib fiberglass does.
cavibird2005 1 year ago
Fibreglass batts tend to break down over time, they provide a smaller long term value than cellulose insulation.
indyswift 1 year ago
This Video is misrepresenting concerning Fiberglass. Should I say misleading people. If you install the Blow In Blanket method with Fiberglass it eliminates all air from the cavity as well., Plus the R Value is greater with Fiberglass in BIBS Blow In Blanket method. Research it.
coast2co 1 year ago
@coast2co I think its important to note blown fiberglass is another good product that can fill the cavity fully. I didn't think that I ever said anything close to "blown fiberglass is no good." Did I? My point was, and still is that the use of blown cellulose vs fiberglass batts is advantageous. You get a fuller cavity and less gaps and voids using cellulose than with fiberglass batts. There is nothing misleading about the video. I would advocate using blown fiberglass over batts any day.
arossona 1 year ago 2
@arossona To me you sound knowledgable with what you're talking about. I have a question to ask?
I'm new homeowner of townhouse condo and I paid a visit to my attic and notice that I have cellulose insulation on a flat floor with no joists.From that draft that i felt it appears that my roof is not well sealed from the inside. Now if I go into the attic to try to cauk, I'll be stirring up the celliulose.What are my options?
zzhamstring 2 months ago
@coast2co I wholeheartedly agree that research is critical when making an insulation choice. I have never used blown fiberglass and cannot say that it's performance is better or worse that cellulose. I haven't even compared the price point. Check with your insulation professional when bidding out your home. Ask for their recommendations and reasons to go one way or the other.
arossona 1 year ago
@coast2co blown fbg has an r2.2 to 2.6 and cellulose is a 3.7 ish, plus fbg isnt a dense product so it doesnt stop all air movement in the walls like cellulose, i blow both products for over 20 years now and cellulose is much better when installed right, just my opinion,ur not talking about teh cubed stuff are you?tht stffi junk
anotherheist 1 year ago 2
@anotherheist
The reality is Blown in BLanket according to industry standards gives you an R4.1 per Inch making a 2X4 which 3.5/8" R15 and Cellulose at 3.7 per inch a R14 this documented
coast2co 1 year ago
Vapour barrier is a condensation maker (mold creator) in most places of the country. Also misleading if you install Blown in Blanket system with fiberglass you get the same complete wall fill and a R15 in 2X4 and a R23 in a 2x6
coast2co 1 year ago
@coast2co
There is no evidence that plastic vapor barrier is the cause of moisture accumulation or mold - in fact it is the opposite - the vapor barrier keeps moisture or mold from penetrating into the home - it is the lack of vapor barriers that traps moisture in the insulation. Batt insulation should be completely wrapped to keep the toxic chemicals from penetrating into the home. The best alternative is Eco - friendly foam insulation as it develops its own vapor barrier.
UDOG01 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Please watch "The Fansulator" seach Fansulator on youtube. Its a kit to insulate your whole house fan and works year round!
twe140 1 year ago
Where is a vapour barrier?
zipacna1980 1 year ago
@zipacna1980 No vapor barrier is put on the interior. Because the exterior is wrapped and stuccoed and sometimes even sheared, if the interior had a vapor barrier it would lead to potential moisture trap in the walls, there would be no indication on the sheetrock because they would be seperated from the moisture. it could spread unnoticed for months or years and really be a problem.
arossona 1 year ago 2
@arossona
Contrary to some people - it is in the best interest to have a vapor barrier of not less than 6 mm on the interior walls of all buildings.
There is no evidence to suggest a vapor barrier enhances moisture - in fact quite the opposite is true - the vapor barrier acts as a barrier to moisture.
Arguably all insulation should be installed with a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation effectively wrapping the insulation like a sandwich bag making the insulation air tight.
UDOG01 1 year ago
worst fiberglass insulation job I have ever seen.. you get almost no caveties with fiberglass if you know what your doing.. if it isnt a perfect job it will fall down in walls over time.. rockwool easier to work with and more fire proof.. but insulate less.
vectraB97 2 years ago
Excellent points. I have never used rockwool on a project. What regions of the country is it commonly used?
arossona 2 years ago
i live in norway.. arctic circle 70degre north
i think.. we buy rockwool in batts. glava fiberglass batts is the one most people buy in norway.. most new norwegian wood houses have 15-25cm cross lain insulation in walls and 30-40cm cross lain insulation in roof.. sorry for my bad english..
vectraB97 2 years ago 2
Your English is excellent, My "anything other than English" requires the apology. Thanks again for watching and for the excellent information.
arossona 2 years ago
I ate fiberglass insulation. It wasn't cotton candy like the guy said... my tummy itches.
bhang15 2 years ago
AHAHAH... he says cuttose (im not sure if thats how you spell the word) to the contractor then starts naming off more mistakes made by the contractor ahaha
1D1E1M1O1N 2 years ago
Does anyone know how much this stuff costs for material and installation? Per square foot of wall?
countryfirst32 2 years ago
The boric acid also makes it rodent proof as well, a problem with fiberglass, rock wool is still the best for all purposes and climates and the most fire proof by far
srpoolboy 2 years ago
Worst batt job I have ever seen....WOW....and blown in cellulose kicks ass....anything you can batt I can blow.....why no poly on this job???
srpoolboy 2 years ago
looks like its not in a cold climate so they dont need a vapor barriar thats why they used unfaced on ceiling too
Mark10977 2 years ago
I'm an investor in RI. The last REO property I bought, the elec insp in the city of Providence came out and lectured me about having knob and tube wiring in the house so close to cellulose insulation . 2 weeks later, I had an outlet overload at another property. The battalion chief was on duty. He told me that since the knob and tube was covered by the insulation it slowed down the frayed wire from setting off a wholesale fire. Who's right? The city inspector or the fire chief? Your thoughts
lexusguy74 2 years ago
First, I have never dealt with knob and tube wiring, so I am not familiar with the application's fire hazards. I will say this- modern blown cellulose is treated with a pretty effective fire retardent and if installed properly ( tight, filling whole cavity) and there are draft stops and foam sealing, the combination should snuff out pretty much any fire in the walls( no oxygen, no fire). I'd probably speak with the elec insp further to find out his reasoning. Thanks for the post.
arossona 2 years ago
knob and tube is just a fire hazard all around. Replace it ASAP. Most insurance companies wont insure people if they buy a property with any knob and tube wiring in it.
Insullation will slow the effects of fire, but these wires get hot, and stay hot, so a fire can smolder till it finally ignites.
In Canada, there is a product, Roxul... which is non-combustible. If you spend any money at all, update the wiring.
tivathehusky 2 years ago
Thanks for the input. Good information.
arossona 2 years ago
No problem. Roxul is a rockwool product and its non-combustible(commercial fire resistance ratings). They also make a sound batt.
You can also buy insulation made out of recycled jeans, batt or blown.
And spray foam is the obvious best, other than it's off-gassing.
And on a rural property, I would most certainly consider strawbales.
cheers
tivathehusky 2 years ago
@tivathehusky I was looking for Roxul's Safe N Sound product after seeing it used extensively on HGTV... but I understand it is available only in Canada. Sigh.
For a couple of recent attic insulation retrofits, I used Green Fiber blow-in cellulose product that I bought at Lowes. YMMV.
TheX77dude 1 year ago
@tivathehusky contrary to your opinion knob and tube is generally safe- and is a good system by design. Most problems arise from inexperienced people modifying the circuits eg stripping the sheath and leaving it exposed. If your wires are really getting hot enough to burn the house down- take the penny out of your fuse box you are trying to run too much crap on the circuit.
umblub 1 year ago
Cellulose insulation has a product mixed into it called Boric Acid. this is a fire proof material its a natrual item which is mined here in the US. Since the Cellulose is made out of paper it would of burned very fast thats why they mix it in and the Boric Acid makes it a fire proof material it does not burn. on the other hand Fiberglass insulation doesnt burn but it melts away from fire. "arossona" commented no oxygen no fire he has a point there but with out the Boric Acid the house will burn
Mark10977 2 years ago
none of ya know what the hell you are talking about
BOBBYJRI 2 years ago
I'm also an insulation contractor 25 years exp. I do both batt and blown insulation. Its obvious to me that this guy just does blown. There is misinformation going on here. R-30 batt insulation is typically 9 inches not 12. That would be an R-38. Each type of insulation has its pros and cons. I do both so I have no agenda, except making sure the customer gets a good job at a fair price.
battmannt 2 years ago
Battmannt,
This guy does whatever the client wants. As I have stated before, we have upcoming videos on our building process video series that cover a home which is completely batts. We do both so there is no agenda here, either. I have a preference based on my experience. That is all.
arossona 2 years ago
I'm an insulation contractor. Cellulose is by far a better product ACROSS THE BOARD then fiberglass; it's more effieicent, more effective, longer-lasting and safer. It has a higher R-value per inch and many more advantages. Today's cellulose is 'stabilized' and won't settle or pack much if at all. It's also resistant to rodents, insects and mold. Fiberglass, for all intents & purposes, is evil: it itches, rats live in it and it settles. Fact R30 in fiberglass is 12", Cellulose reuires just 8
Fit4life8 2 years ago
I work for a wx outfit in MD. Weve got a few houses lately that had fiberglass previously blown into the walls, holes that were created were not sealed up and left the house insulated but very leaky. In on case they drilled into the outside walls and covered up with vinyl siding on another they cut holes in plaster and covered it up with paneling..... we spent says trying to caulk trim and seams and still couldnt reach our cfm goal. If it was cellulose in the walls they wouldve been much better.
decjr2006 2 years ago
I love all of these posts about how people love the idea of cellulose, and the reasons why..........funny how none of those reasons are.....the extra cost will pay for itself in x amount of time......because x is = never page full of people who want to pay 15 dollars a month on interest to save 5???? thank god for the fact that americas contractors arent as dumb as the costumer, or cellulose and foam might actually compete with fiberglass, which they have failed to do for 40 years...
d1incharge 2 years ago
The fact is that cost to install cellulose vs fiberglass batts is running almost the same now. I have actually recieved bids to install cellulose for the same as batts. Material cost may be higher but labor is way down. I have spoken to insulation contractors we work with here in Vegas whose majority business now is blown in cellulose, not batts. Now we will see what method wins out over time as cost has become less of an issue.
arossona 2 years ago
That is NOT a fact. Great, home building tips from the worst housing market in the country!!!! Here in the midwest, blown cellulose totals twice the cost of batts.(in walls) AND LET ME REPEAT, WE ARE TALKING ABOUT 10% OF THE EXTERIOR SURFACE AREA OF A HOUSE(the walls) So I guess your TRYING to compare install costs, and still ignoring the MOST IMPORTANT PART...............DOES IT SAVE THE COSTUMER MONEY???? RARELY TO NEVER is the correct answer.
d1incharge 2 years ago
Your insulation contractor has you bent over, even if material was the same, even if labor time was similar, blowing cellulose into walls requires 20,000$ worth of equipment, and AT LEAST two people, so if they bid both the same, they are retarded, or they are bending you over! You will see more btu loss from your smallest window, than you will see btu saved by converting your walls to cellulose. you are another reason home builders should be required to be either BPI or HERS certified.
d1incharge 2 years ago
I install fiberglass, cellulose, and foam. I have electricity bills from customers with each. There is a cost savings from fiberglass to cellulose and another from cellulose to foam, however the initial investment differences between fiberglass and cellulose create an easily justifiable ratio while the same cost/benefit ratio from cellulose to foam is tougher to sell. This leaves cellulose as the clear choice. All other allegations (corrosive, settling, etc.) are simpply marketing myths.
insulationtruth 2 years ago
I am an energy auditor, and comparing energy bills is proof of your ignorance. There are far too many variables included into an energy bill, there are far too many differences with how people want to live, and where. My home was 1/4 the energy bill of my foam neighbors per sqft. Because they prefer different temps, they leave lights on, so on. But when my 3200sqft house all fiberglass averaged a TOTAL of 64$ month, I have a base load of 48$ to heat/cool my house 16$/month, YOU NEED EDUCATION
d1incharge 2 years ago
Not to mention, alot of my jobs come from settled cellulose, you should know better. It tells you on the bag how much EXTRA to blow for settling.
d1incharge 2 years ago
I am not sure why you choose this forum to vent obvious frustrations and launch personal attacks, but I have a degree in engineering that allows me to technically explain to my customers how these products differ. I am also not sure of what you are trying to accomplish with the things you are saying. They are just plain lies. I am not going to spend any more time on this if we are not going to debate with the truth. Good luck in your misguided endeavor. BTW, HERS raters refer us customers.
insulationtruth 2 years ago
engineer? sure bud! I hope those years of calc and english are really helping you in the insulation business:} Todays hvac systems, and home tightness, and radiant barriers FAR outweigh(depending on climate) r-value. ESPECIALLY in walls! Where else should I vent my frustration towards people who claim to preach the TRUTH? are really just selling you sht that will never pay itself back in the avg 5years an american customer will live there. REALTORS DONT CARE and home value doesnt change
d1incharge 2 years ago
Water heaters in some areas are out-consuming the hvac. there are very few places in this country that are cold enough year round to maybe justify cellulose. My bills were honest, kansas climate. year2 wife got used hot tub for free, base load 84$/month peak 128$ ouch. get your hers buddy, ask him for the sheet that you fill out to find the cost return date, notice they dont figure on interest? ninety what percent of people in the US pay it on AT LEAST there home?Attic ducts should be outlawed.
d1incharge 2 years ago
Yeah this is a video about insulation,not vocabulary, but I tend to agree with Centertree. The main and root meaning of ingest is to "take in as FOOD for digestion. Take into the STOMACH." I didn't see one mention of ingestion as inhalation in the web dictionarys i searched. I laughed a little too when i read the "ingestion of fiberglass" statement. Oh well just my 2 cents. Ok back to the real topic at hand. I would rather BREATHE cellulose than fiberglass, That is if I did not use a mask!
dragon7king2 2 years ago
""Ingestion of fiberglass is no more dangerous than ingestion fibrous wood (cellulose). EPA study has proven this. It is on their website I have seen it go there yourself."" >>> WOW, I didn't realize people are out there EATING this stuff!??!! Can BEEF or potatoes be used to insulate my attic?
CenterTree777 2 years ago
why so much hate for americas number 1 choice in wall insulation, fiberglass batting? Do people forget that insulated exterior wall makes up about 10% of the total exterior surface area inside of your house? I too have a thermal camera and have seen many attics, walls, yet i still prefer blown fiberglass, in the attic, batting on walls. One reason being that most of the attics I am having to FIX are cellulose. Wall wise you just wont save enough to pay the extra cost for cellulose.
d1incharge 2 years ago
No hate. No hate. I have just had better experience with blown in cellulose and believe it is the better option. Again, I hear great things about blown fiberglass and have seen the installation. very clean.
As for insulation in the rafters...When we batt the rafters or blow the rafters it is only if the attic is to be within the conditioned space. That means the attic is not seperate from the home. If it is, you must insulate between the living space and the attic.
arossona 2 years ago
I can feel the love between Ludeduphorsecock & gotveggieoil it's radiating and heating up the room, fantastic keep it going. What's the most eco friendly insulation? Cant get more sustainable than sheep wool, have look at black mountain insulation or Thermafleece. Uk based unfortunately
gerrya1960 3 years ago
Because insulation, energy efficiency and environmental issues are all related, there seems to be a ton of new products that focus on being environmentally friendly. There is a cotton based batt now from recylced jeans that is becoming popular. The problem is that currently ALL these products cannot be produced as affordably as fiberglass or cellulose-So... those 2 are typically the choices-with the more expensive spray foam coming in third but gaining ground.
arossona 3 years ago
I too have been in the business for ten years and have had a chance to install insulation every way possible.Why did you not mention that it is a WET sray cellulose system that usually on an average house puts 500 hundred gallons of water in you walls.The company I worked for had numerous lawsuitsover mold and settling issues.WETSRAY cellulose is by far the worst way to insulate as far as im concerned.Have you ever heard of blown in fiberglass? That is guaranteed not to settle.
davidz2852 3 years ago
I have heard outstanding things about blown fiberglass AND that is preferred by many insulation contractors as well.
We are conscious of the moisture issue. Our insulation contractor tests moisture content before we can drywall.
arossona 3 years ago
WOW, you sound so informative and negative, but you failed to mention that all of those mold problems are caused by the contractor not letting the cellulose dry, you and i both know that you have to wait a few days before sheetrocking, but we both know contractors are in a hurry and fail to do that. So you are correct that it will mold, if your contractor is a complete retard. Try to give all your info before trashing the best possible insulator for the money. Dont give me agenda driven crap.
lubeduphorsecock 3 years ago
Could you give any citations to this claim where proper drying time has been observed
parts67 3 years ago
Cellulose is treated with Boric acid to give it fire and insect retardency. This will cause corrosion with any metal that it come in contact with.
In the attic you have to overblow cellulose by at least 40% to retain the desired r-value due to settling. This is and Underwriters Lab. proven FACT.
Ingestion of fiberglass is no more dangerous than ingestion fibrous wood (cellulose). EPA study has proven this. It is on their website I have seen it go there yourself.
Video maker is biased!
gotveggieoil 3 years ago
Thank you for your post. I am biased. I have used both fiberglass and blown cellulose and have found that using cellulose results in a higher R-value with less hassle.
In an upcoming video, we cover using batts exclusively in a project currently underway. Using batts cost us 5 days on the project because return calls to fix gaps, voids, compression, and unwrapped pipe and wire in the walls. The end result was a sufficiently insulated house but it will NEVER have the R-value a blown house would.
arossona 3 years ago
I have been in the insulation business for 14 years. I am not trying to diminish your experience, just giving context.
You did not address the Boric Acid issue.
You did not address the issue of having to overblow to retain r-value.
When it comes to any fiber (cellulose or glass)compression is a bad thing because it is the air pockets created during install that perform the insulating. A system like Pro Pink Complete (blown walls) performs better in every way when compared to cellulose.
gotveggieoil 3 years ago
Blown Fiberglass is another fantastic product. The blown in application, whether cellulose or fiberglass, is superior to batts. When I get the opportunity, we will do a video on blown fiberglass. Thanks again for your post.
I have done remodel, restoration work as well and haven't seen any problems with metal that has had extended exposure to borate cellulose.
We net the top cord and insulate the envelope of the attic. There is not settling.
arossona 3 years ago
Did you just try and say that fiberglass insulation has no health risks? Do you know what fiberglass does to lungs? And the fact that it takes more than 7 times more energy to produce and then ship than cellulose. There is no comparison cellulose is the only way to insulate, for the saving and for the eco value.
lubeduphorsecock 3 years ago
#1
Lets try this again, and no I did not say Fiberglass had no health risks.
My words: "Ingestion of fiberglass is no more dangerous than ingestion fibrous wood (cellulose)."
Manufacturing fiberglass uses no water in the process, whereas cellulose heavily uses water that has to be re-treated once it goes through the process.
Considering that it takes three times the amount of installed cellulose to equal the insulating power of glass.
Owens Corning is the largest glass recycler in the world.
gotveggieoil 3 years ago
get your bad information from, fiberglass is the same or worse compared to r-factor and weight. What exactly are you tryhing to get done here. And cellulose is 85% recycled the other 15% is the boran. Fiberglass goes no where close to that, and it has to be shipped in from farth manufacturers. Cellulose is the only way to go, unless you are selling fiberglass, and goodluck selling a bad product for more money. Because fiberglass sucks itchy balls
lubeduphorsecock 3 years ago
I didn't know you could EAT fiberglass. Can I insulate my attic with french fries?? LOL!
CenterTree777 2 years ago
Obviously you have no ability to understand the meaning of words in the English language....Ingestion does not only mean eating you imbecile..Ingestion has multiple meanings. In the context that I meant the ingestion by inhalation. I will hold your hand since you do not have the ability to deduce the meaning from the context given. When installing with either materials fibrous dust is created and when compared, cellulose generates multiple times more than fiberglas.
gotveggieoil 2 years ago
Actually I was just being tongue-in-cheek to add some humor here,,,BUT,>> thanks for clarifying YOUR stupidity. I mean if YOU are foolish enough to install either product without proper resporatory safety gear, then it is clearly YOU who are the "imbecile".
CenterTree777 2 years ago
#2
Anyone who knows anything about recycling knows that the return on recycled glass is much more than pulp.
I have manufactured fiberglass for both JM and Owens Corning for 4 years and sold it for 10 years for Owens Corning. I think I know something about the category. All third partys (objective) will state that the long term performance of cellulose (especially in the attic) diminishes as the air pockets become compressed over time.
Do you mean to tell me that the UL are biased?
gotveggieoil 3 years ago
You have twisted the truth enough for today, go to bed and rest up for your next day of twisting and completing what ever your agenda maybe. What about cellulose keep out bugs and animals? Fiberglass actually atracts them. The saviings, i just can see how anyone could go fiberglass over cellulose. I just do know how you could.
lubeduphorsecock 3 years ago
I haven't heard of that being an issue if there is proper installation. If there has been a poor blow-in ( gaps allowed behind pipes etc.) I could see vibration shaking material loose and having cellulose collapse into a gap. What is a danger is the removal of material by subsequent contractors when they do finish work or repairs. It is supposed to be replaced but often, a lazy contractor will leave out or dispose of excess cellulose material. Gaps then can lead to falling insulation in walls.
arossona 3 years ago
Hi, i heard that cellulose will tend to compact when put in walls, cause of vibration, any truth in that ?
willoew 3 years ago
Hands down cellulose beats ALL insulations even spray foam (i spray for a living. You get the highest r value where it counts in the attic. foam is not green period even the soy base is only 18% soy the rest is petro chemicals.
Cellulose wont burn. Hmmmmm
And the biggest reason fiberglass is the worst is the fact it causes cancer. Anyone ever read the fiberglass lables?
For those who want to know i have 2 inches of foam for the air seal and cellulose on top of that.
frankaron 3 years ago
Thanks for the comments. Our insulation contractors do foam seal at all exterior wall penetrations(wire, pipe, etc.) but using a layer of 2" foam and then cellulose sounds like a very good process.
arossona 3 years ago
Didnt I read somewhere that using a moisture barrier on your ceiling is a bad idea?(foam panels) And dont you know that fiberglass can be blown in up to r-60? CELLULOSE WILL BURN, it is fire retardant NOT FIRE PROOF, smolders for a givin time than POOOOOOF takes off like paper would!
d1incharge 2 years ago
I have to disagree. I have seen the tests hands on. open flame to borate treated cellulose as well as side by side burns of homes insulated with cellulose versus batts. Cellulose does not ignite under open flame and significantly slows the spread of fire compared to fiberglass batts.
arossona 2 years ago
there is a youtube video of cellulose igniting under an open flame.....maybe its a fake..... Not one bit of proof here, or anywhere that proves cellusose vs. batting in walls will ever save you the extra cost. Because it wont.......same as foam. Walls make up about 10% of the external surface area of your house, go r-1million if you want, but it wont matter much.
d1incharge 2 years ago
I too have seen the test burn, put on by a cellulose manufacturer. The only manufacturer with a history of MAJOR fire issues until they started treating it. Now 15% of cellulose is boric acid, and can be blown wet, and left that way, perfect for a burn test. If your dumb enough to think that your homes insulation can, or will ever save your life, is close to planning on spending your millions from the lottery!
d1incharge 2 years ago
Cellulose will burn. Cellulose Insulation, treated with fire retardent compounds, will not. If it somehow increased the probability of fire or promoted the spread of fire, the International Building Code would not allow it to be used in construction. On the contrary, the density of cellulose insulation inhibits the ignition and spread of fire due to the decrease in air flow through the material. For this same reason, it has far greater thermal performance despite similar R-values.
insulationtruth 2 years ago
while your right there next to your defintion look up retard-ant and see what that means.
d1incharge 2 years ago
Thanks for putting these videos up they are real helpful
SawEmOff12 3 years ago
You bet...SawEmOff12? That name deserves a "Gig-em Aggies".
arossona 3 years ago
O, you are familiar with Texas A&M U. Glad to hear it.
SawEmOff12 3 years ago
Company G-2 1989-90, Fish Drill Team- left in my P-head year and joined the Marines.
arossona 3 years ago
As the saying goes, Once an aggie always an aggie
SawEmOff12 3 years ago
As an owner/installer for over 15 years, I can tell you that cellulose does not compare to pure blown fiberglass.R-Values, longevity, moisture problems etc. Fiberglass batts are a thing of the past.
lildanny32 3 years ago
I have heard some real positive remarks about blown fiberglass. As an owner/installer, can you share the specific aspects of blown fiberglass that make you feel it is superior to blown cellulose? How does cost of installation compare? What is the R-Value per Inch, how does that match up with blown cellulose? Are there any negatives? I haven't used blown fiberglass on any projects that I have worked. Thanks for watching the video.
arossona 3 years ago
Note that at the project we visited they were using non-faced batts. Faced batts install flush to studs or trusses. Non-faced batts are harder to place correctly. They get pushed into the cavity too far, leaving the gaps that are clearly evident against the studs and trusses in the video.
We will be using batts on an upcoming project at the request of the homeowner to save money. I will simply have to monitor the installation closely and make sure that all penetrations are foam sealed prior.
arossona 3 years ago
At 1:00 - As long as the insulation is at the required R-value with the state id ok, no need for cellulose.
1:46 - You keep saying gaps and voids, show us where.
2:32 - I agree
In my opinion cellulose settles, normal yellow fiberglass dosent. Instead of cellulose I would recommend OPTIMA fiberglass, by CertainTeed, this dosent settle, and to this day im installing this.
djmaxi1 3 years ago
If batts are installed meticulously and spray foam is used to seal penetrations and reduce air movement, it is suitable insulation. Blown cellulose installation requires far less concern and labor because the material is shot in and around all wires, pipes etc and simply shaved off. In addition, the leftover material is recycled.
If the fiberglass is not flush with the face of the studs AND properly installed in front of and behind all wires, pipes etc, gaps and voids result.
arossona 3 years ago
If you think that Fiberglass is as good as or better than Cellulose I would challenge you to use a Thermal Imaging camera and look at the air leakage that you get from fiberglass compared to cellulose. Also don't forget that cellulose is made of paper which has no health effect and then think about what they use to make fiberglass. I know which one I would rather have in my house.
hende1mp 3 years ago
If you think that Fiberglass is as good as or better than Cellulose I would challenge you to use a Thermal Imaging camera and look at the air leakage that you get from fiberglass compared to cellulose. Also don't forget that cellulose is made of paper which has no health effect and then think about what they use to make fiberglass. I know which one I would rather have in my house.
hende1mp 3 years ago
I am a big fan of blown in fiberglass because of the 'full cavity' fact you mention here, and the fact that it's environmentally sound, dry, non-organic (won't support mold, critters, etc), non-settling, and still affordable. Both cellulose and blown fiberglass are superior to batts, with dry-blown fiberglass at the top of the chart. I'd be happy to invite you to one of our jobs to check out our process.
kristinbennett 3 years ago
Wood is an organic product as well but it is still the preferred product for residential construction. If ANY portion of your interior wall gets wet and cannot dry, there is a potential for mold.
Testing has been done that proves a house insulated with blown cellulose will burn slower than a house with batts. This is because a full wall cavity will allow less air movement while gaps and voids common to batt insulation allow convection and let the fire spread more quickly.
arossona 3 years ago
Guess what happens when cellulose gets wet? Guess what happens when there's a fire?
Organic products absorb moisture. Mold.
Organic prodcuts BURN.
umbepo 3 years ago
What about comparing blown in cellulose to blown in fiberglass?
kristinbennett 3 years ago
Kristin,
I'm sorry I haven't responded. That is a fantastic idea. There are a number of different insulation products out there- Spray Foam, blown cellulose, AND blown fiberglass are all very good when properly installed. The spray foam seals up the best, however is far more expensive. Both blown cellulose and blown fiberglass have become very popular. I would imagine that cellulose would be a bit safer to install because of the flying particles.
arossona 3 years ago
Is the netting stapled first and then insulation blown from top down each joist space? Thanks.
summerman2 3 years ago
Blown Cellulose can be installed wet or dry. Wet installation is standard for most of the home. The wet product comes out sticky and stays in place. Residual material is shaved off flush to the studs.( material must dry before drywall installation)
Dry cellulose installation calls for netting to be stapled to studs or joists and the dry product being blown into the empty cavities between studs or joists. The typical attic installation is dry and is blown in from above between the joists.
arossona 3 years ago
Thanks. Great information. It is clear that the blown cellulose with netting is superior and desirable in most areas of application. I saw a situation where the GC didn't want cellulose blown into the stud cavities because they preferred to glue the drywall. In this vid the studs appear nice and clean, leaving plenty of bite area for the glue between the studs. Did you take any measures while fastening the mesh to prevent the cellulose from getting under the mesh and onto the face of the studs?
IREnergy 3 years ago
Good point. When I was working as a superintendent with a residential track builder, there were times that the insulation crew would overfill the mesh in walls taking dry blown-in cellulose. This causes drywall to bow out and so the hangers would simply begin tearing out insulation so they could hang their product straight. At that point it becomes the nightmare of explaining to the insulation company that it was ACTUALLY their fault to begin with and get it fixed.
arossona 3 years ago
Yes, isn't overlap of the trades fun? One job I was on, the mesh had been installed. The next day it was down and fiberglass bats were being used because the drywall contractor wouldn't install over blown cellulose.
IREnergy 3 years ago
Thanks for the information. I am always interested in different types of building materials especially if they are environmentally friendly or increase efficiency. I do some research on the product.
arossona 4 years ago
i use ultra touch its made out recycled jeans
pestronia 4 years ago