Great information. I replaced the bearings in my Saito 180 and had no luck getting the rear bearing out by heating. I devised a system to remove that suborn SOB. I will post a video soon.
Kudos on an excellent presentation. If my college profs had been half as good as you, I would have learned a heck of alot more. PLEASE - do a similar video on a Saito 4-stroke. Thanks
Hello. I own an OS .61FX and am having trouble in freeing the connecting rod from the crankpin. Believe me, I tried and tried and it's not as simple as shown on your video. At least, not in this case.
There is another fellow here who posted 1 year ago and said he has the same problem but with the .61 SF.
Any suggestion would be much appreciated. Thankyou in advance.
Hello. I own an OS .61FX and am having trouble in freeing the connecting rod from the crankpin. Believe me, I tried and tried and it's not as simple as shown on your video. At least, not in this case.
There is another fellow here who posted 1 year ago and said he has the same problem but with the .61 SF.
Any suggestion would be much appreciated. Thankyou in advance.
Thanks for these vids. Just replaced front & back bearings on my OS .46ax for less than £17.00p. Would have cost over £50-00p had I got my local model shop to do the work !!!
Sir, Im new to this hobby and its my first time to change my engines piston and piston ring. Can you do a video on how to change the piston and put a piston ring, connecting rod, pin. Pls help. Tnx
great video I normally boil my engine in antifreeze then the liner drops out easily most other thing too like the crankshaft no knocking it with a hammer cleans it up nicely too your video is the best so far I have seen it explains everything in detail thank you 5 out 5 stars
Thanks for the info. I assume "aluminium" is a regional pronunciation for aluminum? Just want to make sure it's not something completely different.
I would not even tap on the front bearing directly with a hammer - I would place your aluminum block flat on top and tap on that - no sense risking the engine at any time. :)
Yes, outside of the USA, aluminum is pronounced (and spelt) aluminium. You could tap the bearing in as you describe that may still apply some pressure to the inner race. The other option is to simply re-heat the crankcase so the bearing will drop straight in without any additional force being required. That's what I usually do but either way works fine.
Priceless. Your video has just helped me to remove the liner from my OS 50 SX-H that was so tight. Without it it well who knows what landfill it would have ended up in. Just doing the bearings now. Thanks again.
Some people have queried the idea of putting a scratch on the conrod - suggesting this could lead to failure. On a highly stressed racing engine their may be some merit to this but on a sports engine, providing the scratch is light, it should not be an issue. The engine in the vid has now done 200 hours with its "scratched" conrod, being propped to rev at around 14K-15K RPMs.
That is an excellent and very informative video, many thanks , but why have 10 idiots put dislikes ??
jonajonesyboy 1 week ago
Nice work....
elpunto231 1 month ago
Can u send me old front bearings
Techdeckmaster261 4 months ago
Does this work for bigger engines such as a dirt bike 2 stroke engine
MrHector0309 10 months ago
Awesome video !! Using this method my bearings simply fell out..
vdubin64 11 months ago
Great information. I replaced the bearings in my Saito 180 and had no luck getting the rear bearing out by heating. I devised a system to remove that suborn SOB. I will post a video soon.
billtoppa 11 months ago
Two Excellent videos'
Films4You 1 year ago
Kudos on an excellent presentation. If my college profs had been half as good as you, I would have learned a heck of alot more. PLEASE - do a similar video on a Saito 4-stroke. Thanks
av8rc 1 year ago
@av8rc Yes, I'll be doing a Saito bearing-change video soon -- I just have to convince the bearings in my Saitos to wear out first!
xjet 1 year ago
@xjet
Hello. I own an OS .61FX and am having trouble in freeing the connecting rod from the crankpin. Believe me, I tried and tried and it's not as simple as shown on your video. At least, not in this case.
There is another fellow here who posted 1 year ago and said he has the same problem but with the .61 SF.
Any suggestion would be much appreciated. Thankyou in advance.
BUGSY6191 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@xjet
Hello. I own an OS .61FX and am having trouble in freeing the connecting rod from the crankpin. Believe me, I tried and tried and it's not as simple as shown on your video. At least, not in this case.
There is another fellow here who posted 1 year ago and said he has the same problem but with the .61 SF.
Any suggestion would be much appreciated. Thankyou in advance.
BUGSY6191 1 year ago
sweet nice vid :)
CarAudioGuy21 1 year ago
who are the fuckers who didn't like such a video demonstartion ?
damn
dreamwisperer 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
what ist the name of the oil? thanzs!
1430sl 1 year ago
380 hours, wow!!!!!!!!!!!! good engine though
claytonjester 2 years ago
you should keep the nut on the crank, it works well to save the threads
turtlemann14 2 years ago
Thanks for these vids. Just replaced front & back bearings on my OS .46ax for less than £17.00p. Would have cost over £50-00p had I got my local model shop to do the work !!!
BasildonBiggles 2 years ago
wow! best vid on this subject by far!!
pixuma 2 years ago
I have an OS 61 SF, I can't seem to remove the con rod from the crankshaft pin with the piston sleeve removed as you show. Am I missing something?
lypkkj 2 years ago
does this procedure work the same for a 2 stroke weedeater engine??
1972FordF150 2 years ago
I think it does, since I took that old mcculloch engine apart and its very similar to taking apart a model airplane engine.
MrMoterKid 2 years ago
oh ok thanks !!!!!
1972FordF150 2 years ago
No problem!! :-)
MrMoterKid 2 years ago
Sir, Im new to this hobby and its my first time to change my engines piston and piston ring. Can you do a video on how to change the piston and put a piston ring, connecting rod, pin. Pls help. Tnx
Denso2131 2 years ago
great video I normally boil my engine in antifreeze then the liner drops out easily most other thing too like the crankshaft no knocking it with a hammer cleans it up nicely too your video is the best so far I have seen it explains everything in detail thank you 5 out 5 stars
mitchyboy65 2 years ago
Great videos Xjet!
John Wells
Overland Park, KS USA
slimjam44 2 years ago
hey, i was wondering if you know who jim [james] duncan is?? he's a modle plane engine person. do u know who he is?
italianabella567 3 years ago
i think i cracked my piston any suggestions cause it wont turn over at all its a tmaxx and the easy start is just turning
toddy6363 3 years ago
Great Video. I can't seem to get the rear bearings out of my engine. They are a little rusted but not too bad. I have heated it. Any suggestions.
rwill141 3 years ago
Thanks for the info. I assume "aluminium" is a regional pronunciation for aluminum? Just want to make sure it's not something completely different.
I would not even tap on the front bearing directly with a hammer - I would place your aluminum block flat on top and tap on that - no sense risking the engine at any time. :)
JamesMorlan 3 years ago
Yes, outside of the USA, aluminum is pronounced (and spelt) aluminium. You could tap the bearing in as you describe that may still apply some pressure to the inner race. The other option is to simply re-heat the crankcase so the bearing will drop straight in without any additional force being required. That's what I usually do but either way works fine.
xjet 3 years ago
It's spelled and pronounced "aluminum" in Canada as well.
canadianmaple09 3 years ago
what ist the name of the oil? thanzs!
1430sl 1 year ago
What does the popcicle do
DaManzMoney 3 years ago
Thanks for posting this video.!
elcuatedejosefina 3 years ago
would this be the same for RC car engines?
shizlnit 3 years ago
thx for the video!!
mattis09 3 years ago
Priceless. Your video has just helped me to remove the liner from my OS 50 SX-H that was so tight. Without it it well who knows what landfill it would have ended up in. Just doing the bearings now. Thanks again.
Balenzo 3 years ago
thunder tiger engines are so good. mine has had 7 years of use and has only ever cut when it has run out of fuel.
pointless14 3 years ago
Used your directions to take out the bearings on a Tamiya 5.2 Nitro engine. Worked very well. Thanks
tbstag 3 years ago
i see some blow by on the piston
30GB 3 years ago
cherry ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
stupidpeoplecar3 3 years ago
thanks for uploading a most interesting and informative video. It is very much appreciated.
francepourmoi 3 years ago
where did you get that engine and how much was it?
toasteroven89 4 years ago
Some people have queried the idea of putting a scratch on the conrod - suggesting this could lead to failure. On a highly stressed racing engine their may be some merit to this but on a sports engine, providing the scratch is light, it should not be an issue. The engine in the vid has now done 200 hours with its "scratched" conrod, being propped to rev at around 14K-15K RPMs.
xjet 4 years ago