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  • I've been processing my own film from 35mm to 8x10 tray for 40 years and I must say This has to be most uninformative, discussion on the process of film development that i have ever come across...he basically says nothing of any real use and what he does say is mostly irrelevant, or simply not correct...there some good books out there...or take a course from someone who really knows what they're talking about

  • @ldhorricks Hi there!!

    Any boock that you would recomend or is it in your mind for starter devellopers!!

    Thank you very much

    M

  • @mdasilva73 The film development cook book by Stephen G. Anchell & Bill Troop The one thing to remember is to be consistent in your process...get to know it so that you understand what happens when you make changes in any element of what you do... be it Film, developer,dilution,temp,agitat­ion,wet time etc etc...you need to pay attention and work consistently in order to have control over what you do.

  • Comment removed

  • RAMMSTEIN!!!!!!

  • I suggests everybody stop bathing and see if maybe some crabs starts to develop,

  • FREE** Download any Camera Manual. Old, New and Ancient. -

    cameraownermanuals (dot) com

  • You can use Orange Juice and Ammonia as developer and fixer respectively. :3

  • how? Ive been searching all over and cant find proper instructions! help!

  • @nonplasmaant Mithbusters?

  • LukeTrash - It's odd that the late Phil Davis always recommended a stop bath. The notion that it damages film emulsions is just rubish. I've used acid stops with Efke and Foma with *NO* problems. How do these myths get started. It's similar to the notion that an acid stop caused pinholes in Kodak HIE, which Kodak eventually disproved.

  • Film developing is a long process, therefore a stop bath is not needed. The process is slow enough that the low acidity of tap water will stop development quickly. The acid content of stop bath can damage some films like Efke or Foma due to their thin emulsion. I use stop bath because it does a good job of rinsing thick developers like HC110 out of the film and helps keep my fixer alive.

    D76: The powder gets killed by Oxygen just like the liquid stock developer does. Just mix it all at once.

  • hey just so nobobody gets hurt. When you fill your zippo lighter make sure you wash your hands and the lighter. i just recently lit myself on fire when excess fluid burned off my hands and on to my close. i sugjest letting it sit over time. about 8 hours. also to get maximum flame-change wic often

  • What in the hell does filling a zippo lighter have to do with this video? Have you been drinking lighter fluid?

  • Yeah, a stop bath is a good idea but it is not necessary to have it be acidic pH- in fact, some films are sensitive to "pinholing" resulting from use of an acid stop bath, e.g., EFKE films. It wouldn't hurt to mention here that film developing chemicals are not good for you- especially true with pyrogallol (my favorite), paraphenylene diamine and others. Nitrile or latex gloves are great for this task. Otherwise a good intro.

  • >

    Yeah, a stop bath is a good idea but it is not necessary to have it be acidic pH- in fact, some films are sensitive to "pinholing" resulting from use of an acid stop bath, e.g., EFKE films

    >

    Another darkroom myth.

  • Dewd! You need to use an acid stop bath!

  • BRYAN, Nope! You don't have to use and acid stop bath and, in fact, some film should not be stopped in an acid stop bath. Normally, I do use an acid stop bath myself but it's not mandatory. If you don't use an acid stop bath, it's a good idea to give the film a quick rinse before being fixed to prevent alkaline developer from getting into the fixer and depleting it.

  • Well I'm sorry one should always use an acid stop cease development immediately. I've been processing film longer than you've been alive and the notion of a water bath stop always make me laugh.

  • If you had been alive that long, you would know that stop bath was not commonly used until film speeds above iso400 were common place. That said, you can rince for 5 minutes, or you can toss some citric acid or acetic acid against the film for 30 seconds, your choice, myself, i'm impatient.

  • Brian, please go develop urself

  • no , it was good, as you explained really well without trying to be a snobby know it all.....unlike the commenters below me.

    they prob. aint done nothing better, they are the type that like to knock...>!!!

  • knock ur ass

  • GOD I FELL ASLEEP! HOW BORING!

  • no such thing as being bored, only being boring!

  • bull shit

  • love the top

  • This video was not informative enough.

    I say buy a print processor for about $10,000, & used it rather than trays (upgrade)

  • honestly, wtf does this have to do with anything i shit all over the place when i watched this film it sucked so bad then i fisted my girlfriends asshole

  • why the fuck did you watch it? That's like saying I touched a flame and burned myself dumbass

  • wow nice example...NAT get your head out of your ass he id totaly right roxxie24

  • rammstein ^^

  • What about stop bath? Is it necessary? If not why? When would you use stop bath?

  • as i recall, stop bath keeps your photos from being overdeveloped.

  • yes he definitely forgot to mention stop bath. for 2 step developing processes, the fixer and stop bath are in one solution, but you definitely need stop bath

  • I've never seen a stop and fix mixed in one solution, but I haven't developed B/W photos for a few years.

    The stop bath should be what you place the paper into immediately after it's in the developer so that it stops from developing. (Otherwise your darks will be TOO dark.) If you put it in the fix before the stop bath there's no guarantee the image will stop developing.

  • can i do a stop bath with regular water?

  • You probably can, but it'd take a lot longer for the water to affect it. The acidity/chemicals in the stop bath almost immediately stops the developing, so there's no real guarantee that the image will "stop" developing with just water. If you try it, I'd recommend having a constant flow of water to make sure all the developer is off the paper.

  • thanks!

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