I've been processing my own film from 35mm to 8x10 tray for 40 years and I must say This has to be most uninformative, discussion on the process of film development that i have ever come across...he basically says nothing of any real use and what he does say is mostly irrelevant, or simply not correct...there some good books out there...or take a course from someone who really knows what they're talking about
@mdasilva73 The film development cook book by Stephen G. Anchell & Bill Troop The one thing to remember is to be consistent in your process...get to know it so that you understand what happens when you make changes in any element of what you do... be it Film, developer,dilution,temp,agitation,wet time etc etc...you need to pay attention and work consistently in order to have control over what you do.
Help: I am the beginner photographer in question. I need to know how to take room pictures as good as appear in glamour/pornography? Specifically I need to know if there is a set aperture/shutter speed ratio, etc.
I am only using 500w tungsten lights at the moment and as was advised, blue filters. But experiments are not good...
LukeTrash - It's odd that the late Phil Davis always recommended a stop bath. The notion that it damages film emulsions is just rubish. I've used acid stops with Efke and Foma with *NO* problems. How do these myths get started. It's similar to the notion that an acid stop caused pinholes in Kodak HIE, which Kodak eventually disproved.
Film developing is a long process, therefore a stop bath is not needed. The process is slow enough that the low acidity of tap water will stop development quickly. The acid content of stop bath can damage some films like Efke or Foma due to their thin emulsion. I use stop bath because it does a good job of rinsing thick developers like HC110 out of the film and helps keep my fixer alive.
D76: The powder gets killed by Oxygen just like the liquid stock developer does. Just mix it all at once.
hey just so nobobody gets hurt. When you fill your zippo lighter make sure you wash your hands and the lighter. i just recently lit myself on fire when excess fluid burned off my hands and on to my close. i sugjest letting it sit over time. about 8 hours. also to get maximum flame-change wic often
Yeah, a stop bath is a good idea but it is not necessary to have it be acidic pH- in fact, some films are sensitive to "pinholing" resulting from use of an acid stop bath, e.g., EFKE films. It wouldn't hurt to mention here that film developing chemicals are not good for you- especially true with pyrogallol (my favorite), paraphenylene diamine and others. Nitrile or latex gloves are great for this task. Otherwise a good intro.
Yeah, a stop bath is a good idea but it is not necessary to have it be acidic pH- in fact, some films are sensitive to "pinholing" resulting from use of an acid stop bath, e.g., EFKE films
BRYAN, Nope! You don't have to use and acid stop bath and, in fact, some film should not be stopped in an acid stop bath. Normally, I do use an acid stop bath myself but it's not mandatory. If you don't use an acid stop bath, it's a good idea to give the film a quick rinse before being fixed to prevent alkaline developer from getting into the fixer and depleting it.
Well I'm sorry one should always use an acid stop cease development immediately. I've been processing film longer than you've been alive and the notion of a water bath stop always make me laugh.
If you had been alive that long, you would know that stop bath was not commonly used until film speeds above iso400 were common place. That said, you can rince for 5 minutes, or you can toss some citric acid or acetic acid against the film for 30 seconds, your choice, myself, i'm impatient.
A few years ago, two parents went out for dinner. A few hours later, the babysitter was calling to ask if she could cover up the clown statue in the kids' room, the father said,"Take the kids and get out of the house. We'll call the police, we don't have a clown statue." The "clown statue" is really a killer that escaped from jail. If you don't post this letter on to 10 videos tonight, the clown will be in your bed at 3:00 am with a chainsaw in his hand
im sorry but not risking DONT READ THIS SUCKS -.- If you dont copy and paste this message ionto 10 videos your mom will die in 4 hours (WHY im doing that ¬¬U put that like BADD!)
honestly, wtf does this have to do with anything i shit all over the place when i watched this film it sucked so bad then i fisted my girlfriends asshole
yes he definitely forgot to mention stop bath. for 2 step developing processes, the fixer and stop bath are in one solution, but you definitely need stop bath
I've never seen a stop and fix mixed in one solution, but I haven't developed B/W photos for a few years.
The stop bath should be what you place the paper into immediately after it's in the developer so that it stops from developing. (Otherwise your darks will be TOO dark.) If you put it in the fix before the stop bath there's no guarantee the image will stop developing.
You probably can, but it'd take a lot longer for the water to affect it. The acidity/chemicals in the stop bath almost immediately stops the developing, so there's no real guarantee that the image will "stop" developing with just water. If you try it, I'd recommend having a constant flow of water to make sure all the developer is off the paper.
I've been processing my own film from 35mm to 8x10 tray for 40 years and I must say This has to be most uninformative, discussion on the process of film development that i have ever come across...he basically says nothing of any real use and what he does say is mostly irrelevant, or simply not correct...there some good books out there...or take a course from someone who really knows what they're talking about
ldhorricks 10 months ago
@ldhorricks Hi there!!
Any boock that you would recomend or is it in your mind for starter devellopers!!
Thank you very much
M
mdasilva73 2 months ago
@mdasilva73 The film development cook book by Stephen G. Anchell & Bill Troop The one thing to remember is to be consistent in your process...get to know it so that you understand what happens when you make changes in any element of what you do... be it Film, developer,dilution,temp,agitation,wet time etc etc...you need to pay attention and work consistently in order to have control over what you do.
ldhorricks 2 months ago
Comment removed
ldhorricks 10 months ago
RAMMSTEIN!!!!!!
xoxoluvcrisxoxo 11 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi brother needs to chat a, Asian women busizz4me.info
jonekazepotan 1 year ago
I suggests everybody stop bathing and see if maybe some crabs starts to develop,
dario5901 1 year ago
FREE** Download any Camera Manual. Old, New and Ancient. -
cameraownermanuals (dot) com
johanebotta 1 year ago
You can use Orange Juice and Ammonia as developer and fixer respectively. :3
nonplasmaant 3 years ago 10
how? Ive been searching all over and cant find proper instructions! help!
kajdfdsaf 1 year ago
@nonplasmaant Mithbusters?
filipljevar1 9 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Help: I am the beginner photographer in question. I need to know how to take room pictures as good as appear in glamour/pornography? Specifically I need to know if there is a set aperture/shutter speed ratio, etc.
I am only using 500w tungsten lights at the moment and as was advised, blue filters. But experiments are not good...
Are reflectors absolutely necessary? Thanks
Favonich 3 years ago
LukeTrash - It's odd that the late Phil Davis always recommended a stop bath. The notion that it damages film emulsions is just rubish. I've used acid stops with Efke and Foma with *NO* problems. How do these myths get started. It's similar to the notion that an acid stop caused pinholes in Kodak HIE, which Kodak eventually disproved.
DSBRYANTGA 3 years ago
Film developing is a long process, therefore a stop bath is not needed. The process is slow enough that the low acidity of tap water will stop development quickly. The acid content of stop bath can damage some films like Efke or Foma due to their thin emulsion. I use stop bath because it does a good job of rinsing thick developers like HC110 out of the film and helps keep my fixer alive.
D76: The powder gets killed by Oxygen just like the liquid stock developer does. Just mix it all at once.
luketrash 4 years ago
hey just so nobobody gets hurt. When you fill your zippo lighter make sure you wash your hands and the lighter. i just recently lit myself on fire when excess fluid burned off my hands and on to my close. i sugjest letting it sit over time. about 8 hours. also to get maximum flame-change wic often
crop129 4 years ago
What in the hell does filling a zippo lighter have to do with this video? Have you been drinking lighter fluid?
lfphotog 4 years ago 5
Yeah, a stop bath is a good idea but it is not necessary to have it be acidic pH- in fact, some films are sensitive to "pinholing" resulting from use of an acid stop bath, e.g., EFKE films. It wouldn't hurt to mention here that film developing chemicals are not good for you- especially true with pyrogallol (my favorite), paraphenylene diamine and others. Nitrile or latex gloves are great for this task. Otherwise a good intro.
NipkowDisk 4 years ago
>
Yeah, a stop bath is a good idea but it is not necessary to have it be acidic pH- in fact, some films are sensitive to "pinholing" resulting from use of an acid stop bath, e.g., EFKE films
>
Another darkroom myth.
DSBRYANTGA 4 years ago
Dewd! You need to use an acid stop bath!
DSBRYANTGA 4 years ago
BRYAN, Nope! You don't have to use and acid stop bath and, in fact, some film should not be stopped in an acid stop bath. Normally, I do use an acid stop bath myself but it's not mandatory. If you don't use an acid stop bath, it's a good idea to give the film a quick rinse before being fixed to prevent alkaline developer from getting into the fixer and depleting it.
lfphotog 4 years ago
Well I'm sorry one should always use an acid stop cease development immediately. I've been processing film longer than you've been alive and the notion of a water bath stop always make me laugh.
DSBRYANTGA 4 years ago
If you had been alive that long, you would know that stop bath was not commonly used until film speeds above iso400 were common place. That said, you can rince for 5 minutes, or you can toss some citric acid or acetic acid against the film for 30 seconds, your choice, myself, i'm impatient.
Polybun 3 years ago
Brian, please go develop urself
yme1927 4 years ago
no , it was good, as you explained really well without trying to be a snobby know it all.....unlike the commenters below me.
they prob. aint done nothing better, they are the type that like to knock...>!!!
jobydean 4 years ago
knock ur ass
hellouae999 4 years ago
GOD I FELL ASLEEP! HOW BORING!
kishz 4 years ago
no such thing as being bored, only being boring!
jobydean 4 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
A few years ago, two parents went out for dinner. A few hours later, the babysitter was calling to ask if she could cover up the clown statue in the kids' room, the father said,"Take the kids and get out of the house. We'll call the police, we don't have a clown statue." The "clown statue" is really a killer that escaped from jail. If you don't post this letter on to 10 videos tonight, the clown will be in your bed at 3:00 am with a chainsaw in his hand
wannabill 4 years ago
bull shit
hellouae999 4 years ago
love the top
waslookat1me 4 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
im sorry but not risking DONT READ THIS SUCKS -.- If you dont copy and paste this message ionto 10 videos your mom will die in 4 hours (WHY im doing that ¬¬U put that like BADD!)
stupid ass hole...>> i hate chain letters
crissismyangel11 4 years ago
This video was not informative enough.
I say buy a print processor for about $10,000, & used it rather than trays (upgrade)
kingofchristy 4 years ago
honestly, wtf does this have to do with anything i shit all over the place when i watched this film it sucked so bad then i fisted my girlfriends asshole
imreallycool12 4 years ago
why the fuck did you watch it? That's like saying I touched a flame and burned myself dumbass
roxxxie24 4 years ago
wow nice example...NAT get your head out of your ass he id totaly right roxxie24
octopusquail 4 years ago
rammstein ^^
vokomuhila 4 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
One of the best videoclips I`ve seen on youtube for sometime. Thanks for sharing.
americanspirityellow 4 years ago
What about stop bath? Is it necessary? If not why? When would you use stop bath?
inuyoukailady 4 years ago
as i recall, stop bath keeps your photos from being overdeveloped.
gailley 4 years ago
yes he definitely forgot to mention stop bath. for 2 step developing processes, the fixer and stop bath are in one solution, but you definitely need stop bath
dvdfu 4 years ago
I've never seen a stop and fix mixed in one solution, but I haven't developed B/W photos for a few years.
The stop bath should be what you place the paper into immediately after it's in the developer so that it stops from developing. (Otherwise your darks will be TOO dark.) If you put it in the fix before the stop bath there's no guarantee the image will stop developing.
ShootAndSpin 4 years ago
can i do a stop bath with regular water?
cdmjeeah 4 years ago
You probably can, but it'd take a lot longer for the water to affect it. The acidity/chemicals in the stop bath almost immediately stops the developing, so there's no real guarantee that the image will "stop" developing with just water. If you try it, I'd recommend having a constant flow of water to make sure all the developer is off the paper.
ShootAndSpin 4 years ago
thanks!
cdmjeeah 4 years ago