Added: 3 years ago
From: expertvillage
Views: 21,098
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  • $600 bike is crap. Decent bike starts at $2000

  • who is this charismatic clown?!!

  • @tom0r0 jeff

  • take the fucken words of

  • 16 uhm

  • how much would a good road bike cost me?

  • 1000

  • my first car was beetle volkeswagen ..79

    it cost me about 1200...

  • seriously. road bikes that are safe go for 1000

  • i mean i really like bikes...but that's a lot of money...

    i don't think it costs them half that price...

    what do you think?

  • kilo tt search it

  • @rocketer90 i got mine for 130 and its good

  • @evilcryalotmore Not really, thats really retarded, i baught a bike second hand trek 2007 model for 200... its fine... I don't dress up like a power ranger when i ride it either.

  • @sod16 Thats cause trek is the shittiest company ever(:

  • @evilcryalotmore That is your opinion, I think that and specialized are =... Infact my bike is a budget bike anyway, I have no purpose going all nutty and getting carbon nanotube frame (if you even know what that is). Well it gets me to a and be so please silence :).

  • @sod16 Trek is a very good bicycle In fact I have a green one it's a mountain bike. But now I own a cannondale the very rare bikes that cost up to 500-600 dollars on local stores.

  • @evilcryalotmore Nope

    

  • entry level road bikes retail new for around £200-£300 so anything upwards of that. (i dont know what that is in USD)

  • @rocketer90 Second hand one nothing much.

  • Suspension increases traction. Tested and proven.

  • bit of a mistake in this video about suspension, they do not in any way increase traction in fact suspension fork decrease traction. they do not help with speed especially when cournering as the suspension gives way under the presure reducing the traction, thats why they made lockouts yet they still have play in them and dont lock the fork rigid causing the front wheel to be of the ground momenteraly, thats not an upgrade for mtb or atb unless there very expensive forks

  • this is incorrect. a proper set up fork will increase traction by following the terrain contour . a wheel in contact with the ground = a controllable wheel . this is why wheel articulation is so important to offroad trucks and atvs .

    Alsothe speed increase; the more in control you are with your wheel(meaning contact with ground) the fast you can ride into turns and out again .

  • understandable but the type of system that can do what you describe costs allot of money as the cheap ass forks you get do not even come close to working the way they should, some of the presure adjustable shocks i have seen from manitou and marzochi are very good at a high $price not worth it so unless your wallet is fat, the cheap ones dont work and i dont see the point of spending $2000 when i am not in competition besides more fun and more skill with rigid forks i think but thats my opinion

  • I ride a both a ridgid trek 850 and a motobecane with a tora 302 (low end decent) and i can tell you hands down,the shock makes a HUGE diff in the downhill,does little when log hopping and is fine if locked out in the climb,which BTW is what the lock out is for,climbing.a shock absorbs energy,so when you pumping up hill a free moving shock eats up precious momentum,thats why its there(and should be locked out on climbs)

    a $400 shock with good dampening can do wonders for a DH bike

  • everyone to there own i guess. i do allott of touring and i used dart2 forks and i just threw dart 3 forksout and put exotic rigid forks on. i found everytime i went round a courner at speed the fork would try to hop, everytime i tried to balance breaks the fork would plundge with very little damping. these forks were basically just springs there was no air or oil damping to them. now i have the rigid forks i can push the bike like crazy into the corner and still keep grip no more hoping.

  • yes darts are shit . are you saying this happens on the road or dirt? the hopping would make sense on flat road cornering,basicly your shock compresses from the gforce of a hard corner,this changes the geometry/radius of the front to back wheels then,to make up this differance the front will hop to scrub off the built up energy differantial .

    on road you need total lock out,or a extreme stiff setting for heavy cornering

  • i mostly do road riding yet some roads are very gravly or stoney. here in the uk the posh and rich who buy big sports cars destroy the road surface so pot holes and bad road surface is a big problem. its like a mountain trail on tarmac which never gets repaired. bumpy loose tarmac gravel roads and cross country is what i ride on. when i can afford a more expensive fork i may give it anouther go yet i upgraded to rigid and there much better feel more in controll of the bike too

  • sounds like where i live in Ohio . the city salts the roads in winter to melt the ice . the thaw refreeze cycle destroys the roads

    ,it looks like the surface of the moon ,on some streets .

  • AL-YOU-MINNY-UM not A-LOO-MINNUM

  • =P It's one of those UK English vs. American English thing. It's rare to hear anyone use "AL-YOU-MINNY-UM" stateside.

  • F-U-C-K OFF not PISS OFF

    Oh ya, COLOR not COLOUR

  • ok lets clear this up, Americans spell things as they say them 'supposedly' or say them how there spelt. aluminium has an i before um so I.U.M so why they say it with UM without the I at the end beats me also do ppl in the USA spell phone as we do with a PH, if they do then whay change the spelling in first place. colour, color

  • schedule is pronounced SKED-U- L  not SHED-U-L

    the SCH is pronounced the same as SCHOOL ,with an SK sound

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