actually thats a RGP setup to let you know so you might wanna change the title because people are looking for a RGB laser setup so you might get dislikes for that
The gree laser is a Diode Pumped Solid State laser. It cotains a couple of crystals and a infared laser diode to "pump" / excite the crystals. It is not really effiecient so it generates some extra heat. It does not get really hot by itself however the crystals are very temperature sensitive. The large block of aluminum and cooling fan are an attempt to stabalize the laser's output by keeping the temperature stable by using a large heat sinking mass. This did not work.
It did not work well. I repalced it with a better constructed green DPSS laser. The stability is also affected when modulating the laser too. The one shown in the video did not modulate (turn on/off) really well. That is another reason I replaced it.
I will post a follow up with the new RGB(V) laser build. It now sits in a laser projector. Really neat!
Hi! Very good job! Could you write something more about the dichros? In what kind of projectors we can find them and how good are they for combining these wavelengths? I've made RGB laser like this but I used dichros from optical drives (DVD's and HD DVD's) and they're not so good - I have really big loss of green light in my system.
Thanks! I like your work too. Your laser experiments are top notch!
The projector I got the dichros form was an old SHARP LCD projector that used 3 monochrome LCD panels. The dichros were used to maybe split and then combine 3 primary colors modulated by the 3 monochrome LCD panels. The projector is long long gone. It was a long time ago but I believe it was one of these:
I do not know what my losses are. I have revamped the setup since then to include a ~100mW PHR-803T BlueRay diode and a 15mW green DPSS module in a big heat sink which modulates fairly well. Losing alot of green light isn't so bad for color balance as that is usually what we have the most of.
I've seen a TV done with krypton-argon gas lasers back in the 1980s. The equipment was so complex and costly it kept breaking down but could do giant bright projections. Of course, it never needed to be focused.
BTW: You the green laser is from a laser pointer pen from Ebay. $25. The case is + and the isolated pin on the diode is -. The optical sensor for feedback was external to the diode.
I used the 405nm diode vs. the 473nm DPSS because the DPSS blue lasers are really really expensive. I spent < $200 on this setup and I could have made it a bit cheaper because I did some experimentation with different setups.
Thanks! The heat sink is there to provide thermal mass so that the green laser stays at a constant temp. I intend to use this for hours not minutes (like the laser pen it came out of). Plus I am running the green laser using current regulation instead of optical regulation (this affects the stability). That thing puts out a lot of heat!
The beam turns out looking white. It is a bit dimmer in the air than when it hits a white sheet or the wall (because the sheet and wall flouresce?).
The beam is still white. The balance between the lasers is important for the white. If I have too much red which is easy to do I get pink. I am having a bit of trouble with my green DPSS laser. It takes a bit of time to warm up and it doesn't modulate well. Once it is going full power the beam is nice and white ... up until that point it is pink. The big heat sink was to keep the temp. stable... probably could be a bit smaller but I had that chunk of aluminum on hand.
The reason I have read that the beam is still white is that we are using additive color. Any 3 colors that are wide enough apart when combined will make white. Plus! The 405 nm laser (purple) fluoresces on my screen (makes blue) so that contributes too!
If anyone has suggestions on how to get stable output from the Green DPSS laser I would appreciate it. The driver it came with use light feedback for regulating the power however I am using a current regulated power supply. Light feedback would be better however I don't have the ability to make such a sophisticated diode driver.
Also I am in the process of combining this with my XY scanners. I will be posting a video of that when it is done. Thanks for watching.
I've seen this happen before when modding the 532nm pointers into long duty cycles (ie: greater than a minute or two for pointer purposes) It is usually due to the Nd:YAG crystal building up excess heat and expanding its holding material (sometimes just glue) enough to lose some alignment with the IR pump diode. There are some high-powered Nd:YAG and Nd:YVO4 crystals mounted in metal housings on eBay for precision alignment + heat sinking ability which might eliminate this problem.
A cheep hack, send power through the cell terminals on a 3.6 volt lithium ion smart cell PCB and then use a resister to calibrate the right voltage off the 3.6 volt output of the smart cell driver, because of the nature of lithium ion I found it to be a good way to control stable laser output as well.
actually thats a RGP setup to let you know so you might wanna change the title because people are looking for a RGB laser setup so you might get dislikes for that
Thenerfman317 3 weeks ago
thumbs up if kipkay sent you
MNmiknik 9 months ago
very cool :DDD
c0ssu1 11 months ago
why green laser light must have a cooling fan,,,
blue and red lasers are not need it cooling fan
bestamerica 2 years ago
The gree laser is a Diode Pumped Solid State laser. It cotains a couple of crystals and a infared laser diode to "pump" / excite the crystals. It is not really effiecient so it generates some extra heat. It does not get really hot by itself however the crystals are very temperature sensitive. The large block of aluminum and cooling fan are an attempt to stabalize the laser's output by keeping the temperature stable by using a large heat sinking mass. This did not work.
cfavreau 2 years ago
It did not work well. I repalced it with a better constructed green DPSS laser. The stability is also affected when modulating the laser too. The one shown in the video did not modulate (turn on/off) really well. That is another reason I replaced it.
I will post a follow up with the new RGB(V) laser build. It now sits in a laser projector. Really neat!
cfavreau 2 years ago
Hi! Very good job! Could you write something more about the dichros? In what kind of projectors we can find them and how good are they for combining these wavelengths? I've made RGB laser like this but I used dichros from optical drives (DVD's and HD DVD's) and they're not so good - I have really big loss of green light in my system.
c4r0hv 2 years ago
Thanks! I like your work too. Your laser experiments are top notch!
The projector I got the dichros form was an old SHARP LCD projector that used 3 monochrome LCD panels. The dichros were used to maybe split and then combine 3 primary colors modulated by the 3 monochrome LCD panels. The projector is long long gone. It was a long time ago but I believe it was one of these:
Sharp LCD XG-E850
It worked then blew up because of a loose screw.
cfavreau 2 years ago
I do not know what my losses are. I have revamped the setup since then to include a ~100mW PHR-803T BlueRay diode and a 15mW green DPSS module in a big heat sink which modulates fairly well. Losing alot of green light isn't so bad for color balance as that is usually what we have the most of.
cfavreau 2 years ago
Tremendous little set up cfavreau.
Very well done.
I would most certainly give this one a try if more detail becomes available.
petermines 2 years ago
u want to sell this
chevy2259 3 years ago
If you want, I can make a better video showing more of how I made it so you can make your own?
cfavreau 3 years ago
could make a tv with that and be rich, you have the right colors red green and blue
juniortore 3 years ago
I've seen a TV done with krypton-argon gas lasers back in the 1980s. The equipment was so complex and costly it kept breaking down but could do giant bright projections. Of course, it never needed to be focused.
alanstarkie2001 2 years ago
awsome thats a very good thing you did. Have fun :)
Kdragonlaser 3 years ago
Thanks! I hope some other people try it too!
cfavreau 3 years ago
BTW: You the green laser is from a laser pointer pen from Ebay. $25. The case is + and the isolated pin on the diode is -. The optical sensor for feedback was external to the diode.
I used the 405nm diode vs. the 473nm DPSS because the DPSS blue lasers are really really expensive. I spent < $200 on this setup and I could have made it a bit cheaper because I did some experimentation with different setups.
cfavreau 3 years ago
Thanks! The heat sink is there to provide thermal mass so that the green laser stays at a constant temp. I intend to use this for hours not minutes (like the laser pen it came out of). Plus I am running the green laser using current regulation instead of optical regulation (this affects the stability). That thing puts out a lot of heat!
The beam turns out looking white. It is a bit dimmer in the air than when it hits a white sheet or the wall (because the sheet and wall flouresce?).
cfavreau 3 years ago
That is one sweet set up! I think the heatsink is a little overkill for a 5mW 532nm thou :P
Does the projected dot still turn out white even thou u use a 405nm instead of a 473nm?
I'd like to try this but i don't have any low powered green lasers XD
FrigginSmift 3 years ago
The beam is still white. The balance between the lasers is important for the white. If I have too much red which is easy to do I get pink. I am having a bit of trouble with my green DPSS laser. It takes a bit of time to warm up and it doesn't modulate well. Once it is going full power the beam is nice and white ... up until that point it is pink. The big heat sink was to keep the temp. stable... probably could be a bit smaller but I had that chunk of aluminum on hand.
cfavreau 3 years ago
The reason I have read that the beam is still white is that we are using additive color. Any 3 colors that are wide enough apart when combined will make white. Plus! The 405 nm laser (purple) fluoresces on my screen (makes blue) so that contributes too!
cfavreau 3 years ago
If anyone has suggestions on how to get stable output from the Green DPSS laser I would appreciate it. The driver it came with use light feedback for regulating the power however I am using a current regulated power supply. Light feedback would be better however I don't have the ability to make such a sophisticated diode driver.
Also I am in the process of combining this with my XY scanners. I will be posting a video of that when it is done. Thanks for watching.
cfavreau 3 years ago
I've seen this happen before when modding the 532nm pointers into long duty cycles (ie: greater than a minute or two for pointer purposes) It is usually due to the Nd:YAG crystal building up excess heat and expanding its holding material (sometimes just glue) enough to lose some alignment with the IR pump diode. There are some high-powered Nd:YAG and Nd:YVO4 crystals mounted in metal housings on eBay for precision alignment + heat sinking ability which might eliminate this problem.
likmahchoda 3 years ago
A cheep hack, send power through the cell terminals on a 3.6 volt lithium ion smart cell PCB and then use a resister to calibrate the right voltage off the 3.6 volt output of the smart cell driver, because of the nature of lithium ion I found it to be a good way to control stable laser output as well.
Zenodilodon 2 years ago