Added: 4 years ago
From: hpw1966
Views: 85,983
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (71)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • should be just a problem of fuel. The bigger the droplet size, the more knock you have.

  • its gotta be a loose piston pin or con rod

  • Tenia bastante que no miraba el motor de un vochito, I had a long time I haven't see a VW Beatle Engine...

  • Sounds rough as fuck.

  • sounds like Mr. Rod wants to come outside and play.

  • @apexironworks lmao, love that explanation. i like to use, " crankcase cant breathe and wants ventilation"

  • hi friend .. when you put a piston in a wrong way the engine sound like that.....or the conecting rod whit the piston.is too old( bronce) the sound is like that too... is mi opinion. i hop to help you ... and sorry for mi poor english... se you..

  • Had the same problem, easy fix, harmonic balancer is off, banging against da side, aka, "wobbling" and that the sound your hearing. ( => its the biggest flywheel on the bottom that happens to be connected to the crankshaft, which also happens too be the outer wheel that the belt wraps around when your looking at your engine standing over it.) Stand over it with lights on and have your friend or yourself revv the engine and watch the wheel wobble and hit surrounding area. :)

  • uau ... change that belt

  • i can help, i know where the problem is,,,, go to a mechanic -.-

  • hey man look what type of gasoline u are using, maybe this sound is because u are using the wrong gasoline grade, try with a different one like mid-grade, im learning mechanics for the armed forces and i think it would help.

  • Mine was making the exact same noise, took it to a 30+ VW pro, said its fine. I will run mine as my daily driver and I guess just see what happens haha. btw, it has less than 3,000 miles on it

  • Balance your carbs.

  • sounds like a vw to me

  • Wrist pin. 

  • Sounds like piston slap.

  • what abt ur alternator bearings?

  • I almost hope that it might be a bent alternator shaft. Easier to fix than tearing down the engine.

  • where does the noise seem like its coming from???

    near the crankshaft area??? because I have almost the same noise. I also adjusted the valves to no avail, and checked the rocker arm side-play. Don't really know what else to try.

  • herb is that you?

  • sounds almost like a loose rocker to me. not sure

  • crank shaft end float. old vw engines are noisy anyway.

  • one thing I notice is that belt is a lil loose. Too much deflection. But thats not the cause of the noise. Sounds rough, sry can't help more,

  • that engine sounds mechanicly sound, no bearing mechanical issues, but when you lift refvs, i hear slight hint of a slight missfire maybe? like MrMrtiki said, i'd check your timing, other than that sounds sweet

  • its a VW of course its a piece of crap

  • That's realy normal

  • May be a simple LIFTER. if this car has lifters of course..

  • Put a pint of Trans oil in the motoroil for one week too see if it has sticky lifters how long has the eng run without an oil change the trans oil is a detergent IT WILL NOT HARM THE MOTOR in anyway this will clean that ENG.up so fast you`ll wonder where the sound went in about 2 days I have been a ford BLUEBLOCK man for 30 yrs.noisy lifters are my specialty A beetle can run very hot and create a oil shale on the lifters this method WILL clean it up better than RISLONE uses Diesel for cleaning

  • @MrMrtiki That only works with hydraulis lifters VW didnt have them when this engine was made

  • @boaterbil I hear ya but when trans oil gets hot it will render any shalac that can build up on valve stems or jug walls .

  • @boaterbil I took another listen to this try a eng timing retard sometimes an eng will try to diesel itself with the eng too far advanced back it off 1 or 2 degrees the bug looks like you take care of it pretty good if an eng starts smoking bad do a comp. test if 1 cyl is low run that valve set late for 2 hrs back off lifter bolts 1/8 turn this richens the oil build up on the jug and valve seats this method can loosen them from the bottom FAST return valve nuts 1/16- 1/8 if noise goes away .

  • beetles are push rod i think may be one of the rods are bent

  • valve problem or maybe head gasket or someting

  • If anything, it sounds like the valves are loose to me. But, honestly, I don't think it sounds that bad. hahaha

  • Ha ha.. get used to it! I adjusted my valves eternally and it was never quite perfect. This is why this type of valve and rocker isn't used today. Still it's a beautiful engine build. Nice job on the details.

  • Was Franklin the first company to make opposed air-cooled engines?

  • why is knocking bad? i understand what happens when engines knock but i dont know whay it is bad

  • its basiclly pre-ignition means the mixture is igniting before it should, which means its sending a shock through the piston and conrod through to the crank. it happens from using a fuel with too high a volitility and too low a flash point (ie low octane). higher octane fuel and correct timing fix it most of the time. don't fix it, say goodbye to all the high strain components of ur engine

  • its usually a misfire its usually not bad

    but kinda hard to fix

  • @Bloodsteri667 It's bad because the rod that is knocking can eventually shoot through the hood of your car if left unfixed

  • @Bloodsteri667 knocking is bad because though an engine spins fast and parts move backwards and forwards and spin constantly, the tolerances between parts when connected should be practically nothing if a conrod isn't connected to the crankshaft properly, within a very short amount of time the action between the two will be like a hammer moving side to side between two walls (this equals damage) whereas the should be no play before the conrods action is reciprocated against the crank.

  • but which noise was the knocking noise??

  • I think the steady "chug- Chug chug Chug chug..." in the beggining

  • I think you got some problems with the spark plugs, I had that on my Peugeot, one cylinder wasn't working and it made the same sound

  • Was it a 305, by any chance? ;-)

  • it's a 84' 205 1.1 petrol

  • Ah OK, I was asking because my old 305's 1.5 engine also developed a "dead piston problem" at one point. It would travel with 3 pistons until you exceeded a certain speed, then the 4th would suddenly kick in ;-)

  • yeah I know that problem, same thing, you turn the car on first time and you can hear the non-working piston. I changed the spark plugs, the distributor cap, distributor arm and my pug works like a girl ;)

  • spun rod bearing?

  • Sound like valve train noise, could be the valve lashing might be to lose. Pull the valve covers off and try to move the push rod up and down there should be no play in the up and down motion but lose enough that you can spin the rod with a bit of effort. If not the thicker motor oil could stiffen up the lifters and should quite down as said in other comments.

  • Possible one of the valves is too tight? Just a guess on my part, that hissing noise suggests either he has the exhaust work off or a jug is loose... or one of the valves is staying open.

    I'm just going off the fact that my VW never did this while it was in working order.

  • i agree with you porkchopz28

    it does sound like a valve issue

  • it sounds like lifters but i dont know if your motor has any,sounds exactly like my fathers v8 wagon.just use 20,50 motor oil and possible will lubricate better

  • Do you mean the bowl shaking sound?

  • It sort of sounds like it might be valvetrain

  • this is a fucked crank/conrod bearing right?

  • bad piston rod

  • check crankshaft endplay

  • sounds like u left it running on low oil to me.

  • u r right but i say thats the valve clearance. when the motor is out of oil, the clearance will grow. or the valves ar easily wrong installed... same failure same noise

  • i may not be the only one to say this, and tell me if i am wrong, but are you using premium instead of regular?

  • Yes, I was using premium, the engine is now being rebuilt. But now that you ask what difference would it make?

  • if you use regular, the compression ratio will cause the gas to combust before it is supposed to, and will make that noise

  • that's only if you're using a high compression engine. if you're using 7.5:1 you can run regular no problem. you might be able to do with with 8:1 but i dont' remember off the top of my head

  • con-rod bearing failure...

  • did u let the engine warm up???

    ur valves need to get hot before they become the right size. so let it warm up

    have u been keeping track witch valves have been tighting on u. cuz when u do and u notice 1 is tighting up all the time u need to change it cuz it going to blow pritty soon

  • they are always lubricated, you kidding me, even the pushrod tubes have holes for lubrication to the cam and rockers. Might be that you have hydraulic valves that aren't "pumping" up.

  • yea on those motors those valves tend to be the first thing that needs replaced. and that is prolly why its chugging like that . a burn valve maybe. but what ever it is it has something to do with the valves.

  • its your valves ticking you need to adjust them.

  • Aircooled engines tend to be noisier because there is no liquid to dampen the clatter. Don't overtighten the valves or you could burn the exhausts or cause backfiring into the intake.

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more