Ok, the voltages on one are all around 12v and on the other two are around 13v and one is around 11v. the dash lights up ok and says full power on one scooter and the other , ? I forgot to check it but i'll check it later. the controller is CT-660B9. what if I bypassed the controller and hooked the batteries directly to the motor just to test it out? Is that a bad idea? -Thanks
I bought two scooters just like the one in your video. Can you tell me how to check if my controller is bad or not? Also , both chargers are supposed to light up red at first but they both light up green as if the batteries are fully charged but they won't run. ? ?
@BrutusJones The controllers were pretty unreliable in these from what I understand. That's why I ended up installing the new one.
How many volts do you have on your batteries when they are charged? The scooter won't move if the charger is connected, or if either switch is turned off. Does the battery gauge on the dash light up?
If the batteries are original, they are likely no good.
Let me know your battery voltage, and we can go from there.
I have a 36v x 360 electric motor scooter and im thinking about adding a 1000watt motor with a 36v 1000watt controller would that make my scooter go faster ???
@MrDjMon4Lif3 If you can find a spot to mount the motor, then yes, it will be faster. Especially if you put a bigger sprocket on the motor. You will have lower battery life though.
i have a stealth 1000 and it has a 36v controller. If i put a 48v controller and of course 48v battery, will I gain anymore speed? How do these controller work in handling higher voltage than specified? Will a 36v controller only supply 36v to the motor?
@fishinman69 You could use a 48v controller and battery pack for more speed, but your motor will not last as long :-)
Do not try to use more than 36v of batteries on a 36v controller, it will probably be damaged. A set of 3 fully charged batteries in series typically measures about 38 volts. The 36v controller can probably handle 41v or so maximum.
Does this controller work for brushed or brushless motors? I attached a hall effect throttle to it and nothing happens, not sure if the controller is busted...imcompatible...or if the throttle is busted.
@MaxSachs The motor on this scooter was a brushed type. There are several different wire color schemes for hall effect throttles, so make sure they are connected to the right pins. Basically, the throttle itself has 3 wires- Ground, positive, and output. The output wire should increase in voltage the farther you turn the throttle.
There are wiring diagrams online for this CT-660B9 controller. Just find the one that matches your wire colors. .
I've got four wires for my hall effect throttle: black, red, green, and yellow. I used a multimeter to check the voltage change as I twisted it and there was no change in voltage, it stayed at 1.5V at the green and yellow wires and 5V at the red+black wires...so I know it's getting power, just not doing anything with it. Looks like I'll have to get a new one.
I experience a very bright and powerful spark when I connected my batteries to the controller, blinding light and enough energy to completely melt the quick disconnect contacts. How can I stop that spark from occuring? The battery pack is 42V16Ah lipos.
No there is no fuse, the lipo pack is rated at 15C's so that's 240Amps...I figured a fuse was not necessary since the motor will be pulling about 40amps. The lipos do not get hot and wires are not melted just about half the disconnects themselves, like slag. Two days ago I attached the pack again and this time the controller emitted some dim light and then a quick puff of smoke...the throttle is now dead but the controller is still good I think, I used a multimeter to test voltage
This is very frustrating, I've waited for months to put this thing together and the piece that should have been the safest...falls apart before it even starts. If the controller is dead, will it pass any voltage through the wires or should the failure be complete? The key switch has an LED and it turns on, I also get 41.7 volts at the battery port and the motor port. If this controller can't handle its rated capacity, could you recommend an alternative?
@MaxSachs If you get any voltage at your motor wiresa with the throttle disconnected or at idle, your controller is shorted.
How many watts is your motor? Also make sure your motor runs when connected directly to the battery. If it just sparks, then that's probably what blew your controller.
There are various websites that talk about building and repairing scooters. I would start with searching for one of those.
The motor runs fine when connected to the battery, just that horrific spark to worry about. The motor is a Currie 36V - 48V 1000W motor and its supposed to carry about 35 amps. I just came from a site that talked about the controller frying mosfets because of the type of motor being used, too little resistance could cause high amps to flow. I tested the motor before, at 41.7 volts it draws 2.5Amps with no load. Before the sparking the throttle had worked.
So far this is 3 throttles that have gone completely bust, one was DOA and the other two decided to fry along with the controller. I forgot to mention that the battery pack was not fuse protected, is this optional or a must? I should just scrap the whole motor controller idea and simply have an ON/OFF switch to the motor to supply juice when I need it. Not like I'll be blowing any speed limits...
@MaxSachs Then you need a controller with minimum ratings of 1000W at 48 volts. Once you replace your controller, install a fuse of around 20 amps on the batteries for testing purposes. If everything works, install a fuse that allows riding with a full load. Probably 40 amp.
Hrmm, sounds like a plan. At electricscooterparts I have my eye on this controller: SPD-481200, 48V rated for 1200W. It does present a small problem for me though, my lipo pack hovers around 41.7 volts...and voltage protection on that controller is 41 volts which means it'll shut off. How about the SPD-361000 at that site? It is imperative I remain at a 10 cell lipo pack...or alot of equipment becomes useless. Do you know anything about these controllers?
@MaxSachs That's the hardest part... 41.7 volts is a bit much for a 36V controller. They are usually rated for use with lead acid batteries, which give about 38 volts at a full charge. Hopefully the under-voltage protection won't be a problem with the 48v controller. Depends how much the battery voltage drops under load.
What if you were to remove a lipo cell? I assume you can't add more because of mounting space.
No I cannot add more but yes I can remove one cell without compromising the mounting case. It will mean yet more desodering work but at least it's free. I kept reading about how controllers could handle higher than rated voltage blah blah blah and so I followed through, result: busted controller. Removing one cell from each pack should leave me with a 37.8V 16Ah pack that I can try with the controller. Thanks for all your help, I'll report back here when it's completed!
Just had an idea, all of my mopeds employ capacitors to regulate spark and rectifiers to regulate voltage and current. What if I were to place a 50A inline fuse and a high rating capacitor between the battery and the controller, the fuse to protect the battery and the capacitor to protect the controller. On a moped this serves to maintain spark and to protect lights from blowing.
@MaxSachs That would not work the same in this case. Small capacitors are usually used across switch contacts to reduce wear from arcing. Adding a capacitor to the input line of the controller would only increase the inrush current, and the arc.
Thanks for the response. I just checked the green wire as I cranked the throttle, and it went up to 8.3v. Very slow. I also joined the wires coming from the controller (black+red) and it went much faster. Conected the (green+red) and went same slow. Any idea? Very appreciated!
My controller plug for my throttle, i believe may be broken. When all hooked up, scooter speed is so slow, theres no way to ride it. Just check the voltage on the wires and got this: red=10v, green=0v, black=0v. Should I consider this controller toast. I just bought the controller. Or could it be something else. Thanks for your help.
I purchased an x360 last September and the people that I bought it from will not honor the warranty. I also have a 24 volt scooter that is five years old and I tweaked it two years ago and it will go uphill and was clocked at 23 mph by a cop.
i built a trike 36 volts , blew my controller out had the same one i think . my throttle had four wires , controller clip had 8 ins , is ther an easyer way .
Something like that. Next Summer I might get a chance to do some testing with it and find out the actual range before loss of power.
It will go up hills found on most average roads/sidewalks, just nothing too steep or long. And going downhill, it will coast like a bike so you don't need the motor.
I weigh around 160. The batteries are pretty hard to remove... You have to take the whole body off, which means removing the seat, handlebars, and some other stuff. The batteries also cost over half of what the scooter is worth. I paid around $100 for batteries alone, and had to make the wiring harness myself. But I'm crazy like that.
Anything else you need to know about these scooters, you can find via Google. Just search for Xtreme X-360.
I'll be changing a couple connectors, but those will likely be crimp on terminals. I also need to solder new jumper wires between the batteries. I'll post another video soon.
Ok, the voltages on one are all around 12v and on the other two are around 13v and one is around 11v. the dash lights up ok and says full power on one scooter and the other , ? I forgot to check it but i'll check it later. the controller is CT-660B9. what if I bypassed the controller and hooked the batteries directly to the motor just to test it out? Is that a bad idea? -Thanks
BrutusJones 9 months ago
@BrutusJones Yep, you can connect the motor right to the batteries. Just make sure you lift up the wheel or you will be chasing it :-)
Also make sure your brake switch is not stuck on, because that will disable the motor too.
Maxxarcade 9 months ago
I bought two scooters just like the one in your video. Can you tell me how to check if my controller is bad or not? Also , both chargers are supposed to light up red at first but they both light up green as if the batteries are fully charged but they won't run. ? ?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
BrutusJones 9 months ago
@BrutusJones The controllers were pretty unreliable in these from what I understand. That's why I ended up installing the new one.
How many volts do you have on your batteries when they are charged? The scooter won't move if the charger is connected, or if either switch is turned off. Does the battery gauge on the dash light up?
If the batteries are original, they are likely no good.
Let me know your battery voltage, and we can go from there.
Maxxarcade 9 months ago
I have a 36v x 360 electric motor scooter and im thinking about adding a 1000watt motor with a 36v 1000watt controller would that make my scooter go faster ???
MrDjMon4Lif3 1 year ago
@MrDjMon4Lif3 If you can find a spot to mount the motor, then yes, it will be faster. Especially if you put a bigger sprocket on the motor. You will have lower battery life though.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
i have a stealth 1000 and it has a 36v controller. If i put a 48v controller and of course 48v battery, will I gain anymore speed? How do these controller work in handling higher voltage than specified? Will a 36v controller only supply 36v to the motor?
fishinman69 1 year ago
@fishinman69 You could use a 48v controller and battery pack for more speed, but your motor will not last as long :-)
Do not try to use more than 36v of batteries on a 36v controller, it will probably be damaged. A set of 3 fully charged batteries in series typically measures about 38 volts. The 36v controller can probably handle 41v or so maximum.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
Does this controller work for brushed or brushless motors? I attached a hall effect throttle to it and nothing happens, not sure if the controller is busted...imcompatible...or if the throttle is busted.
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs The motor on this scooter was a brushed type. There are several different wire color schemes for hall effect throttles, so make sure they are connected to the right pins. Basically, the throttle itself has 3 wires- Ground, positive, and output. The output wire should increase in voltage the farther you turn the throttle.
There are wiring diagrams online for this CT-660B9 controller. Just find the one that matches your wire colors. .
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
I've got four wires for my hall effect throttle: black, red, green, and yellow. I used a multimeter to check the voltage change as I twisted it and there was no change in voltage, it stayed at 1.5V at the green and yellow wires and 5V at the red+black wires...so I know it's getting power, just not doing anything with it. Looks like I'll have to get a new one.
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
I experience a very bright and powerful spark when I connected my batteries to the controller, blinding light and enough energy to completely melt the quick disconnect contacts. How can I stop that spark from occuring? The battery pack is 42V16Ah lipos.
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs Does it work ok once the spark stops, or does it melt the wires? It shouldn't spark that bad when just sitting idle.
You also should have a safety fuse in series with the batteries. Lipo batteries explode like crazy if they get too hot..
If the wires are melting and nothing is working, then your controller is probably bad (or hooked up wrong).
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
No there is no fuse, the lipo pack is rated at 15C's so that's 240Amps...I figured a fuse was not necessary since the motor will be pulling about 40amps. The lipos do not get hot and wires are not melted just about half the disconnects themselves, like slag. Two days ago I attached the pack again and this time the controller emitted some dim light and then a quick puff of smoke...the throttle is now dead but the controller is still good I think, I used a multimeter to test voltage
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs Sounds like you need a new controller and throttle at this point. Sometimes when the controller gets shorted it takes the throttle with it.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
This is very frustrating, I've waited for months to put this thing together and the piece that should have been the safest...falls apart before it even starts. If the controller is dead, will it pass any voltage through the wires or should the failure be complete? The key switch has an LED and it turns on, I also get 41.7 volts at the battery port and the motor port. If this controller can't handle its rated capacity, could you recommend an alternative?
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs If you get any voltage at your motor wiresa with the throttle disconnected or at idle, your controller is shorted.
How many watts is your motor? Also make sure your motor runs when connected directly to the battery. If it just sparks, then that's probably what blew your controller.
There are various websites that talk about building and repairing scooters. I would start with searching for one of those.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
The motor runs fine when connected to the battery, just that horrific spark to worry about. The motor is a Currie 36V - 48V 1000W motor and its supposed to carry about 35 amps. I just came from a site that talked about the controller frying mosfets because of the type of motor being used, too little resistance could cause high amps to flow. I tested the motor before, at 41.7 volts it draws 2.5Amps with no load. Before the sparking the throttle had worked.
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs
So far this is 3 throttles that have gone completely bust, one was DOA and the other two decided to fry along with the controller. I forgot to mention that the battery pack was not fuse protected, is this optional or a must? I should just scrap the whole motor controller idea and simply have an ON/OFF switch to the motor to supply juice when I need it. Not like I'll be blowing any speed limits...
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs Then you need a controller with minimum ratings of 1000W at 48 volts. Once you replace your controller, install a fuse of around 20 amps on the batteries for testing purposes. If everything works, install a fuse that allows riding with a full load. Probably 40 amp.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
@Maxxarcade
Hrmm, sounds like a plan. At electricscooterparts I have my eye on this controller: SPD-481200, 48V rated for 1200W. It does present a small problem for me though, my lipo pack hovers around 41.7 volts...and voltage protection on that controller is 41 volts which means it'll shut off. How about the SPD-361000 at that site? It is imperative I remain at a 10 cell lipo pack...or alot of equipment becomes useless. Do you know anything about these controllers?
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs That's the hardest part... 41.7 volts is a bit much for a 36V controller. They are usually rated for use with lead acid batteries, which give about 38 volts at a full charge. Hopefully the under-voltage protection won't be a problem with the 48v controller. Depends how much the battery voltage drops under load.
What if you were to remove a lipo cell? I assume you can't add more because of mounting space.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
No I cannot add more but yes I can remove one cell without compromising the mounting case. It will mean yet more desodering work but at least it's free. I kept reading about how controllers could handle higher than rated voltage blah blah blah and so I followed through, result: busted controller. Removing one cell from each pack should leave me with a 37.8V 16Ah pack that I can try with the controller. Thanks for all your help, I'll report back here when it's completed!
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@Maxxarcade
Just had an idea, all of my mopeds employ capacitors to regulate spark and rectifiers to regulate voltage and current. What if I were to place a 50A inline fuse and a high rating capacitor between the battery and the controller, the fuse to protect the battery and the capacitor to protect the controller. On a moped this serves to maintain spark and to protect lights from blowing.
MaxSachs 1 year ago
@MaxSachs That would not work the same in this case. Small capacitors are usually used across switch contacts to reduce wear from arcing. Adding a capacitor to the input line of the controller would only increase the inrush current, and the arc.
Maxxarcade 1 year ago
i thout u ment controlling with an xbox360 controller
CAFcorey 2 years ago
i found one in the street..and has battery and stuff good condition..but how should i start it now??
Gdale32djs 2 years ago
Thanks for the response. I just checked the green wire as I cranked the throttle, and it went up to 8.3v. Very slow. I also joined the wires coming from the controller (black+red) and it went much faster. Conected the (green+red) and went same slow. Any idea? Very appreciated!
joobjoobie 2 years ago
My controller plug for my throttle, i believe may be broken. When all hooked up, scooter speed is so slow, theres no way to ride it. Just check the voltage on the wires and got this: red=10v, green=0v, black=0v. Should I consider this controller toast. I just bought the controller. Or could it be something else. Thanks for your help.
joobjoobie 2 years ago
I think the green wire should increase in voltage the further you turn the throttle. If not then your throttle control is probably bad.
Does the motor go full speed when connected right to the battery?
Maxxarcade 2 years ago
I purchased an x360 last September and the people that I bought it from will not honor the warranty. I also have a 24 volt scooter that is five years old and I tweaked it two years ago and it will go uphill and was clocked at 23 mph by a cop.
anvil357 3 years ago
hey man...the controller on my scooter broke too..so do u hav any tips or advice to help me fix up da new one
PrInCeFlOrIdA 3 years ago
i built a trike 36 volts , blew my controller out had the same one i think . my throttle had four wires , controller clip had 8 ins , is ther an easyer way .
thescooterguy 3 years ago
how long can it stay at full speed and
and does the light work
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
Depends on quality of batteries. Maybe 20-30 minutes or so. The lights work, but are not very bright. It is not legal for road use.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
so it wont go up any hills and can u go about
8 miles to work in it
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
Something like that. Next Summer I might get a chance to do some testing with it and find out the actual range before loss of power.
It will go up hills found on most average roads/sidewalks, just nothing too steep or long. And going downhill, it will coast like a bike so you don't need the motor.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
how tall our u and is the plastic sturdy
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
u should soup up the motor or watage to like
500 it will go faster
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
can the scooter tow a small trailer for groceries
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
whats the farthest uve driven it
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
I think it has a rated range of about 20 miles per charge. I've never driven it too far though.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
will it go up hills pleze tell i need to know
il subscribe no one will tell me.
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
If you're referring to the X-360, it won't go up very steep hills. It is made for flat pavement areas.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
if u dont mind me asking how much do u weigh
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
Around 160 I think.
wizard8575 3 years ago
does the scooter pull u well
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
Probably about 15MPH on flat concrete.
wizard8575 3 years ago
i really want one so bad will it go up any hills.. willl u please pleae make another
video with this scooter
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
where did u buy the scooter sir
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
Bought it non-working from a friend and rebuilt it.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
how much do u weigh and can u easily take the batterys out
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
I weigh around 160. The batteries are pretty hard to remove... You have to take the whole body off, which means removing the seat, handlebars, and some other stuff. The batteries also cost over half of what the scooter is worth. I paid around $100 for batteries alone, and had to make the wiring harness myself. But I'm crazy like that.
Anything else you need to know about these scooters, you can find via Google. Just search for Xtreme X-360.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
will u make another vid
im getting the same one red
plese make anothr vid
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
I can't, it's the middle of Winter, and I don't want to ride it in the house...
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
whre did u buy it
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
nerd momas boy
sexsexsexdeath 3 years ago
when ae you making another viedo when you peace it back togater
iman411 3 years ago
I've been riding it for months, just haven't had time to make a video.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
ohhhhhhh how fast dose it go how much did it cost
iman411 3 years ago
It's not very fast, maybe 15-18MPH. It is an X-Treme X-360. You can find new ones on Ebay for $300 or less. But they are not really road legal.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
I'll be changing a couple connectors, but those will likely be crimp on terminals. I also need to solder new jumper wires between the batteries. I'll post another video soon.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
what kinds of tools are you using for this project?
GSRGOPEDRIDER247 3 years ago
What do you mean by that? No special tools are needed to work on these, for the most part.
Maxxarcade 3 years ago
i meant any tools like a sauder gun for the wires?
GSRGOPEDRIDER247 3 years ago
where do u live
WARMACHNE14 3 years ago
haven't got it back together and your already burning rubber. lol
jefferyb304 3 years ago
Nice
sync5controller 3 years ago