Not a big deal...however, the red label polly scale is the flat and the greens are your satin and gloss. Also, heard Testors is discontinuing this line. Is this true?
When he talks about scale isn't he talking about the size of the aircraft?1/72 for example being 72 times smaller than the real aircraft.I don't think it's about the gloss or shine.
Why is it that the word "scale" in model aircraft has come to implicitly mean a dull grimy look. In real life, for every grimy airplane I've seen, there are hundreds of aircraft that are clean and shiny.
I'd like to see a technique for replicating the finish on an airplane that just came out of the factory or one that has just been repainted.
I'll admit that weathering takes skill and patience, but I believe that to make a realistic looking model of a "clean" plane takes infinitely more.
He's not talking about modeling "any aircraft". How many WWII planes have you seen personally during operations that were "clean and shiny"
These are scale models of WORLD WAR II AIRCRAFT. Planes that saw incredible amounts of action, took insane amounts of punishment in horrible conditions IN COMBAT.
Sure, if this was a Cessna Skyline or Boeing 777 or some modern plane or fighter, weathering would be toned down. But we're talking about heavily used and abused WWII aircraft. -.-
The video title only mentions "scale" model aircraft. Are well-maintained or new aircraft not "scale"??? The so-called scale "experts" seem to be expert only at applying grime as I have yet to see anyone explain how to achieve realism on a model of a plane that doesn't even have a fingerprint on it. I've seen Skylanes and 777s that are pristine, but no one is telling how to achieve REALISM without grime. Out of the factory, even WW II aircraft were clean. Are those examples not "scale"???
The video title might only mention "scale models", but clearly, with a shred of sense, you can see he is referring to WWII aircraft, specifically this BF-109.
Also, you seem to be unfamiliar with modeling. Most, if not all kits are models of SPECIFIC, REAL, INDIVIDUAL planes. Not just "random BF-109". They're modeled after real pilot's planes, and as such, have the markings and wear and tear that those planes would have had in reality. THAT is what this VIDEO is referencing.
Also, wouldn't it be just common sense to see that if you want to keep a plane looking new and pristine....DON'T WEATHER IT. It's really not all that hard. Apply a gloss coat or satin finish (as he explains in other videos), and simply DON'T weather it. Then the model, whatever it might be, should look new and sparkling clean.
He's just demonstrating how to achieve a realistic weathering effect on aircraft that would ACTUALLY have been fairly heavily weathered in reality.
Scale refers to the physical size of the model in relation to the real thing 1:1 would be lifesize, 1:2 half etc.
ANY MODEL is a scale model, clearly in this video the Scale model in question is a WWII german fighter plane.
These were aircraft built in wartime, they were built for a purpose and to be serviceable in air combat, not to look pretty and shiny, they never even left the factory looking pretty and shiny.
@airste172 Additionally this is not the first vid link i've seen your ignorant comments on, if you want to see clean realism look at model car builders and search for websites, then simply translate this to model aircraft, if you do this to WWI or II craft it WILL be incorrect.
Actually, modern planes see many years of service. WWII planes typically DID NOT see "incredible amounts of action" etc. Lifespan was typically very short. Typically you see chafing on the wing where the pilot steps. Then you see the lines and screws of only the panels which are routinely removed. Smoke stains from guns and exhaust on "old veteran" aircrafts. Occasional hydraulic streak, bit of dust on wheel area on some campaigns. What you don't see, is "panel shading" or old, grimed in dirt.
That's funny because I live right across the border from the US and whenever I travel anywhere in the States other than Michigan people ask if I'm from Michigan. You don't know anything about "CANADIAN" accents if you think we talk radically different than most Americans.
@peezebeuponyou Wow! Someone took a non-serious comment in a serious way! I've always admired the Brits for their sense of humour...Monty Python, Fry and Laurie, Blackadder, Ricky Gervais, Eddie Izzard to name a few. But it seems like the only Brits with a sense of humour are those you see on TV. I'm not sure whether to be amazed that Great Britain has managed to get everyone with a sense of humour on TV, or disappointed with the populace for completely lacking anything resembling wit or humour.
That was quick- LOL. Actually am an Eddie Izzard fan- saw him at the MEN Arena a couple of years ago. Jimmy Carr's DVD 'special' was on the box last week- he seems to have 'gone off' a bit; used to be funny.
I'd recommend Milton Jones if you ever get the chance to see him- went to his show at the Manchester Apollo last week and he's very good. Similar stuff to Tim Vine.
Incidentally, that Stewart Francis is very funny- he's on over here quite a lot.
i like your vids they are very interesting,ive been making kits for about 25 years + but get a better camera you are not doing your kits justice.but as i said great vids!
I'd kill for an A470, yet I still don't trust the plastic construction Aztek/Testors uses. Then again, you can buy an A470 NEW cheaper than an entry-level Iwata double-action. Plus with an A470, there's no annoying paint needles to soak in lacquer thinner to prevent them from rusting along with sanding them back to a point when bent, almost zero moving parts, you just change nozzles for different patterns/effects, and it takes BOTH gravity feed cups and internal-mixed bottles... :)
I have the A470 kit and I really haven't even used it yet other than a quick test. I am just getting into scale modeling and my workshop just got completed. I have heard good things and bad things about this airbrush. I am going to get the high dollar Iwata in a month or so. I want to be able to choose which one I like best. It'll cost me a LOT but I hear they are worth it. I have a Paasche compressor but will be getting the Iwata Super Jet Pro next month because the Paasche is REALLY loud!
Check ebay for the Iwata. I have an Iwata HP C-Plus and I really like it. I also have and use a Paasche VL and a Paasche VLS. Same brush but the VLS has a nut to thread the bottle's nozzle tip on. I use the Iwata for fine detail and the Paasches for all else. The Paasches take side mount open bowls and bottles. Maintenance and cleaning is no big deal. Do get some Iwata airbrush lube. Also consider getting an ultrasonic cleaner. WageslaveZ has obviously never owned another airbrush. He's wrong.
Here is what I do for all my model. I starts with all the weapons and landing gears first, before the whole aircraft. because I know I will get lazy with those weapons set at the end. so it do that first.
WageslaveZ: Soory man, you are incorrect on many things you say about other air brushes. Lacquer thinner does not prevent rust. A needle will wipe clean and a quick swish will clean a nozzle. You could not sand a bent needle back to an accurate point that wouldn't distort the spray pattern. Almost any air brush without a molded on bowl accepts BOTH cups and bottles. It takes me about 10 minutes to completely strip, clean, and reassemble my Paasches, my Iwata, or my "no-name" airbrushes.
I had one years ago. I found it very difficult to keep clean. Also, because it is made up mostly of plastic parts it wore out very quickly. I now use a Passche.
Also if your enamel paint lid is stuck, turn it upside down and use an eye dropper with some thinner in it. Apply to the lip of the the cap, the thinner will eat the paint around the threads. Comes right off!
Woah what the hell? Sorry for that but I wasnt bashing Hyperscale. I was bashing some idiot who was going "check out webcamzdotcom" Cuz I really have no idea why they did that. Really Im sorry for that, I love this guy, i subscribe to him and everything. The comment I replied to must have gotten deleted.
hi, you can also use pebeo's acrylic varnish for paintings. It's better than everything i've tried so far, i'm not scared to scrap the paint job anymore but you got to mix it well before. It comes in different degrees of shine.
I'm glad I don't have to deal with the glossy taliban...
thesweatleaf 1 month ago in playlist mud effects
I use Krylon Ultra Flat. Cheaper, easier, works great
phatmonk6195 7 months ago
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sankaendika 1 year ago
Not a big deal...however, the red label polly scale is the flat and the greens are your satin and gloss. Also, heard Testors is discontinuing this line. Is this true?
Dopey390th 1 year ago
When he talks about scale isn't he talking about the size of the aircraft?1/72 for example being 72 times smaller than the real aircraft.I don't think it's about the gloss or shine.
wick3er 1 year ago
The germans actually waxed their airplanes to reduce drag!
BigAndTall666 2 years ago
Why is it that the word "scale" in model aircraft has come to implicitly mean a dull grimy look. In real life, for every grimy airplane I've seen, there are hundreds of aircraft that are clean and shiny.
I'd like to see a technique for replicating the finish on an airplane that just came out of the factory or one that has just been repainted.
I'll admit that weathering takes skill and patience, but I believe that to make a realistic looking model of a "clean" plane takes infinitely more.
airste172 2 years ago
Comment removed
spiffy72985 2 years ago
@airste172
He's not talking about modeling "any aircraft". How many WWII planes have you seen personally during operations that were "clean and shiny"
These are scale models of WORLD WAR II AIRCRAFT. Planes that saw incredible amounts of action, took insane amounts of punishment in horrible conditions IN COMBAT.
Sure, if this was a Cessna Skyline or Boeing 777 or some modern plane or fighter, weathering would be toned down. But we're talking about heavily used and abused WWII aircraft. -.-
spiffy72985 2 years ago 2
The video title only mentions "scale" model aircraft. Are well-maintained or new aircraft not "scale"??? The so-called scale "experts" seem to be expert only at applying grime as I have yet to see anyone explain how to achieve realism on a model of a plane that doesn't even have a fingerprint on it. I've seen Skylanes and 777s that are pristine, but no one is telling how to achieve REALISM without grime. Out of the factory, even WW II aircraft were clean. Are those examples not "scale"???
airste172 2 years ago
I'm not knocking "coal mining", but just once, I'd lke to see an example of "diamond cutting".
airste172 2 years ago
@airste172
The video title might only mention "scale models", but clearly, with a shred of sense, you can see he is referring to WWII aircraft, specifically this BF-109.
Also, you seem to be unfamiliar with modeling. Most, if not all kits are models of SPECIFIC, REAL, INDIVIDUAL planes. Not just "random BF-109". They're modeled after real pilot's planes, and as such, have the markings and wear and tear that those planes would have had in reality. THAT is what this VIDEO is referencing.
spiffy72985 2 years ago
@airste172
Also, wouldn't it be just common sense to see that if you want to keep a plane looking new and pristine....DON'T WEATHER IT. It's really not all that hard. Apply a gloss coat or satin finish (as he explains in other videos), and simply DON'T weather it. Then the model, whatever it might be, should look new and sparkling clean.
He's just demonstrating how to achieve a realistic weathering effect on aircraft that would ACTUALLY have been fairly heavily weathered in reality.
spiffy72985 2 years ago
@airste172 You need to get a grip with meanings.
Scale refers to the physical size of the model in relation to the real thing 1:1 would be lifesize, 1:2 half etc.
ANY MODEL is a scale model, clearly in this video the Scale model in question is a WWII german fighter plane.
These were aircraft built in wartime, they were built for a purpose and to be serviceable in air combat, not to look pretty and shiny, they never even left the factory looking pretty and shiny.
spidiq8 1 year ago
@airste172 Additionally this is not the first vid link i've seen your ignorant comments on, if you want to see clean realism look at model car builders and search for websites, then simply translate this to model aircraft, if you do this to WWI or II craft it WILL be incorrect.
spidiq8 1 year ago
Actually, modern planes see many years of service. WWII planes typically DID NOT see "incredible amounts of action" etc. Lifespan was typically very short. Typically you see chafing on the wing where the pilot steps. Then you see the lines and screws of only the panels which are routinely removed. Smoke stains from guns and exhaust on "old veteran" aircrafts. Occasional hydraulic streak, bit of dust on wheel area on some campaigns. What you don't see, is "panel shading" or old, grimed in dirt.
Vermiliontea 1 year ago
Why on earth is a CANADIAN making fun of how someone talks,eh?
badamson10 2 years ago
That's funny because I live right across the border from the US and whenever I travel anywhere in the States other than Michigan people ask if I'm from Michigan. You don't know anything about "CANADIAN" accents if you think we talk radically different than most Americans.
canadianmaple09 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
good vid, thanks.
pdwalker2 2 years ago 2
He is not British,he is an Australian,and this video was made at least 7-8 years ago,so there goes argument for a better camera....
sutlijas1 2 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
DEE-CAL! DEE-CAL! Why do British people say it "DECK-UHL"?
canadianmaple09 2 years ago
Shut the Fuck Up.
Deathofblades 2 years ago
@canadianmaple09 lol, idiot.
Serp1313 2 years ago
@canadianmaple09
Why do North Americans say "decal"? I use the good old-fashioned word "transfers".
I'm Briitish.
You and your compatriots could do worse than looking up "accents for dummies" by the way- bloody clueless...
peezebeuponyou 2 months ago
@peezebeuponyou Wow! Someone took a non-serious comment in a serious way! I've always admired the Brits for their sense of humour...Monty Python, Fry and Laurie, Blackadder, Ricky Gervais, Eddie Izzard to name a few. But it seems like the only Brits with a sense of humour are those you see on TV. I'm not sure whether to be amazed that Great Britain has managed to get everyone with a sense of humour on TV, or disappointed with the populace for completely lacking anything resembling wit or humour.
canadianmaple09 2 months ago
@canadianmaple09
Sorry- your post came across as arrogant and insular. I don't see the connection with Eddie Izzard to be honest.
peezebeuponyou 2 months ago
@peezebeuponyou Not an Eddie Izzard fan eh? Jimmy Carr perhaps? Noel Fielding? All great stuff.
canadianmaple09 2 months ago
@canadianmaple09
That was quick- LOL. Actually am an Eddie Izzard fan- saw him at the MEN Arena a couple of years ago. Jimmy Carr's DVD 'special' was on the box last week- he seems to have 'gone off' a bit; used to be funny.
I'd recommend Milton Jones if you ever get the chance to see him- went to his show at the Manchester Apollo last week and he's very good. Similar stuff to Tim Vine.
Incidentally, that Stewart Francis is very funny- he's on over here quite a lot.
peezebeuponyou 2 months ago
i like your vids they are very interesting,ive been making kits for about 25 years + but get a better camera you are not doing your kits justice.but as i said great vids!
dangerousprimate 2 years ago
I'd kill for an A470, yet I still don't trust the plastic construction Aztek/Testors uses. Then again, you can buy an A470 NEW cheaper than an entry-level Iwata double-action. Plus with an A470, there's no annoying paint needles to soak in lacquer thinner to prevent them from rusting along with sanding them back to a point when bent, almost zero moving parts, you just change nozzles for different patterns/effects, and it takes BOTH gravity feed cups and internal-mixed bottles... :)
wageslaveZ 3 years ago
I have the A470 kit and I really haven't even used it yet other than a quick test. I am just getting into scale modeling and my workshop just got completed. I have heard good things and bad things about this airbrush. I am going to get the high dollar Iwata in a month or so. I want to be able to choose which one I like best. It'll cost me a LOT but I hear they are worth it. I have a Paasche compressor but will be getting the Iwata Super Jet Pro next month because the Paasche is REALLY loud!
dajzilla 3 years ago
Check ebay for the Iwata. I have an Iwata HP C-Plus and I really like it. I also have and use a Paasche VL and a Paasche VLS. Same brush but the VLS has a nut to thread the bottle's nozzle tip on. I use the Iwata for fine detail and the Paasches for all else. The Paasches take side mount open bowls and bottles. Maintenance and cleaning is no big deal. Do get some Iwata airbrush lube. Also consider getting an ultrasonic cleaner. WageslaveZ has obviously never owned another airbrush. He's wrong.
jimmyzen 3 years ago
Here is what I do for all my model. I starts with all the weapons and landing gears first, before the whole aircraft. because I know I will get lazy with those weapons set at the end. so it do that first.
AtlantiXYL 2 years ago
WageslaveZ: Soory man, you are incorrect on many things you say about other air brushes. Lacquer thinner does not prevent rust. A needle will wipe clean and a quick swish will clean a nozzle. You could not sand a bent needle back to an accurate point that wouldn't distort the spray pattern. Almost any air brush without a molded on bowl accepts BOTH cups and bottles. It takes me about 10 minutes to completely strip, clean, and reassemble my Paasches, my Iwata, or my "no-name" airbrushes.
jimmyzen 3 years ago
I had one years ago. I found it very difficult to keep clean. Also, because it is made up mostly of plastic parts it wore out very quickly. I now use a Passche.
ialarmu 2 years ago
Thanks. The e in decals is long.
brad43210 4 years ago
Also if your enamel paint lid is stuck, turn it upside down and use an eye dropper with some thinner in it. Apply to the lip of the the cap, the thinner will eat the paint around the threads. Comes right off!
burkholder27 4 years ago
deckalls....lol
keoaye 4 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Do you guys get payed to do this crap?
scottalmighty1 4 years ago
Yes, scottalmighty1, believe it or not some guys DO get paid to do this "crap" as you put it....and paid quite well!!!
I know a guy who's a commercial model maker and between doing that, and a hobby shop he owns, he makes over $60,000 a year! Not bad in my opinion!
Think about that next time you want to slam someone and their hobby.........
ryanspeed 3 years ago
Woah what the hell? Sorry for that but I wasnt bashing Hyperscale. I was bashing some idiot who was going "check out webcamzdotcom" Cuz I really have no idea why they did that. Really Im sorry for that, I love this guy, i subscribe to him and everything. The comment I replied to must have gotten deleted.
scottalmighty1 3 years ago 2
hi, you can also use pebeo's acrylic varnish for paintings. It's better than everything i've tried so far, i'm not scared to scrap the paint job anymore but you got to mix it well before. It comes in different degrees of shine.
Rechkalov7 4 years ago
Good video, it's very helpful, all your videos have helped me out a lot.
lotr10 4 years ago
thanks for the great help...
please keep posting!
gmarti87 4 years ago
Very nice model. Thanks for posting this information, wonderful.
MissileMist 5 years ago 2
great help thanks
bosscomax 5 years ago