then another 15 minutes to clean the metal of all burrs and corrosion which was aplenty! Great job on the video, but if you decide to redo it, add the removal of the assembly for greater impact on those using your video as a resource!
@sgtduckyboy64 yes i totally know what you are talking about with how much work it is normally to get the midshaft bearing out of the motormount. all of the cars i have done in the past were very similar to what you described. unfortunatly the car i used to make the video was fairly easy...prob becase the car ahad a severe oil leak and was constantly soaking down the bearing and mount. glad you got it done, and thanks for watching.
I will add to that, if you rotate the assembled piece upside down, then remove the nut holding the motormount to the chassis, this makes is very simple to move the two pieces out and to put them back in. Then, when I was knocking my axle out of the carrier, it took two guys, with the same hammer as you, over a half hour to get the shaft out and the seized race!!! Simply nuts!
This really helped me with my axle replacement. However I have a couple of extra points to add. First off, I didnt see this until AFTER I got stuck at the axle removal. THen I found out this thing is seized. I tried heat, pronged separators, slide hammers, PB blaster, Kroil, and variations of them with each other with no avail.
I have one problem with cutting the cv axle I had to pay a 51 buck core charge and if I cut i I lose the money. I am a disabled VET so even a few bucks is a lot to me and my family. How can it be done without cutting it?
@ncrdisabled hi, if you can get the car up high enough, you mite be able to position the axle in the right spot to be able to remove it. otherwise, i know some places out there (or there used to be) that didn't have a core charge on them. good luck and thanks for watching.
@jeremcfadden I checked rockauto and it would cost me 51 plus 20 bucks for shipping which means I lose 20 bucks due to rockauto is not close . 20 bucks is a lot to me as I am a disabled vet . I wish I could find one no core charge local and only cost 51 bucks .
Thanks for all your help. My motor mount was bad and needed replacing. As tricky as it was positioning the bracket and mount during removal, what is your suggestion for installation; bracket then motor mount, motor mount then bracket, or assembled and installed as one?
@bobioni57 last time that i swaped engines on a toyota, i had the mount and bracket allembled together, then i secured the motor mount bolts to the subrame loosely, then i bolted the bracket to the engine block, then i came back and finished tightening the motormount nuts. good luck with your repair. thanks for watching.
Isn't the motor mount the black part behind the midshaft bearing you point out at the 48 second mark of the video and the drive shaft actually passes through the motor mount bracket?
In my last comment, I referred to the part you were holding in your left hand prior to sledging as the motor mount housing. I guess it's actually known as the motor mount carrier? Is this part available? The carrier holes through which the 14mm bolts screw in seem somewhat worn away.
At the point in the video when you're preparing to sledge the bearing out of the housing, you're holding the housing with your left hand. Isn't the part of the housing in your left hand held on by a nut anchoring the housing to the motor mount? How do you access that nut. Also, if supporting the engine at the oil pan, how much do I need to jack up the engine?
@bobioni57 hi, that is the motor mount in my hand. the bearing has a large retaining clip and a set bolt holding it in the bearing in the motor mount. i'm sure you can find the part online, at a junk yard or though a toyota dealership (not sure on the price though). if you are supporting the engine fro the oil pan, you don't have to raise the engine much, if at all...just support it so it does't drop. thanks for watching.
I might have to try the cutting shaft/mount removal technique. I've been wailing on it with an air hammer for half an hour and it hasn't budged. Thanks for the info - good to know I'm not the only one having trouble!
@wbass79 I finally got it out, but I couldn't get the bracket that supports the bearing out without taking it apart from the actual motor mount - it was way too tight. The underside of my vehicle (93 w/ 5SFE) looked quite a bit different - there was a bar going from the block to the intake manifold that I also had to remove, and that gave me enough space to flip it around and take it apart. There was no way it was coming out the side without removing the PS pump/lines.
I might have to try the cutting shaft/mount removal technique. I've been wailing on it with an air hammer for half an hour and it hasn't budged. Thanks for the info - good to know I'm not the only one having trouble!
I might have to try the cutting shaft/mount removal technique. I've been wailing on it with an air hammer for half an hour and it hasn't budged. Thanks for the info - at least I'm not the only one having trouble!
THANK YOU!!!!! I'm replacing my tranny tonight/tomorrow and This helps alot. I'm going to take out the drivers side after I drop the tranny just so I have a lil more room.
@wbass79 No actually the shafts are new the tranny is bad. I gotta drop the tranny but I'm just going to get the driverside out then lower the tranny away from the passenger side cv shaft. I hate these cv shafts... Still haven't got just the drivers side off.
@fueledbymusic3 the CV joints can go bad, the bearing can go bad and the differential seals can go bad. The axle can be spilt into 2 peices when you give the axle a good pull from the end (you'll separate the inner CV joint/boot. The shaft is pressed into the bearing which is usually siezed into the motormount. The whole shaft will need to be removed if your bearing or seals are bad. thanks for watching.
I have been doing this job since last night and the carrier bearing is frozen inside the mount. It took all last night just to cut and remove the axle out in 3 pieces. The part that holds the bearing took 3 hrs to remove it. The 17mm nut was stuck and it took a-lot time getting it out. There was no direct path to the nut because the intake was in the way. The power steering pump was placed perfectly in the way of this whole mess. I really don't care for a $10 core for the old axle.
Right now I got to run this mount to a shop to have this bearing pressed out. I just hope it does not take all day putting it back together.
I would have designed this carrier bearing holder/engine mount that it holds the bearing with 3 small bolts which would not require a press or removal of the mount. There is no need for this kind of design.
@jimmy101112000 i couldn't agree with you more. it is a terrible design. i just replaced the axles on a 96 nissan quest. the mid-shaft bearing had exactly what you are talking about with 3- 12mm bolts holding it in. it was much easier.
@wbass79 I also did a Mercury Villager which is the same thing as a Nissan Quest. I even had trouble with the passenger side with that being rusted. Shop was $100 for doing that side.
I did finish doing that Camry. I could not get the bearing fully seated to put the snap ring in. I was only off 3/16 inch and that was tapping it with a sledge. It started to deform the nut on the axle and I just said the hell with it. It will most likely stay in place. I did grease the bearing but did not help.
@jimmy101112000 I have the same issue getting that in all the way. I also cut the axle and had to beat that bearing out which took a lot of pounding. I'm assuming he's using the vice grips as not to beat on the end of the axle?
@GStone I was using a vice grips to pound it back on but the carrier bearing was sticking so bad the vice grips would pop off the shaft toweards the tranny. I should have taken a sanding drum to the mount and grind it clean before re-installing the axle with a real heavy grease.
As for the driver side that one was stubborn. I had a 3 jaw puller but no slide hammer. I attached a tow chain to the 3 jaw puller and used a second car to pull it out. It was dangerous but it worked.
@jimmy101112000 Same here with the vice grips popping off. Plus not enough leverage with the sledge while lying under the the car. It still isn't in all the way, but it isn't leaking so I've been driving it like that.
@GStone Just make sure your set screw locks the bearing in so it does not slip out. So far the one I did is not going anywhere without the snap ring installed. Just keep an eye on it from time to time.
Your videos are great. I appreciate you taking the time to put them together. I have a 92 Camry with that needs new front axle assemblies, and having your vid's to watch will make the job a lot easier for sure. I probably wouldn't fix them, but the car runs to good not to.
you think you could just cut the shaft right at the MM ( leaving just a short bit) and beat it out while not unbolting the MM? lol you just answered my question, hopefully mine will come out smooth! thanks
@5WebGem I tried that and there was no room because the exhaust pipe is in the way. The force I was hitting at that bearing on a vice would surely crack that engine block.
@jimmy101112000 I had my exhaust dropped, and it still wasnt possible. Had to remove the Motor mount from the block, and the 4 nuts underneath holding the MM bracket. The joint had to be seperated, and motor jacked up slightly to finally get it out.(throught the serp belt way)(1997V6)
@5WebGem The one I did was the same in this video with the 4 cylinder. If it had the same carrier bearing as this I would imagine the mount was harder to remove.
I think if I ever had to do one of these again and the carrier bearing is still good. I would just cut the band off the inner joint and pull the old axle out and clean the old inner cup and repack with fresh grease and put the new axle on that and put the new band on the new boot and crimp it and be done with it.
I had some trouble betting the CV axle assembly into my '01 Toyota Highlander correctly, until my nephew John found your video. We watched your video and found out we shouldn't be afraid to "man handle” the unit! Thank you! Great way to save money! Thanks to my late father for teaching me how to work on cars I couldn’t have done it with out him either!
@evz2023 hi. you'll need jack stands, floor jack, metric wrenches, saws-all or angle grinder w a cut wheel, metric sockets, heavy hammer (sledge hammer) and some sort of tie rod end separating tool (there are several models you can use). thanks for watching.
Have just finished doing the driver side cv (which would be the passenger side in USA). Rather than undo the engine mount from the crossmember, I undid the nut on the top of the engine mount (a little tricky) and then undid the mount from the engine. This requires no cutting at all during removal.
My Haynes manual says take out the intermediate shaft along with the cv axle but doesn't say why. Do we really need to? Why not just take out the allen bolts and put the new cv axle in? Certainly the i-shaft bearing may be bad, but then all the bearings in the car may be bad, or fine. If the seal on the differential isn't leaking, why bother?
@bingchery if you just need to repair a cv joint and want to rebuild it, you can....a lot of the repair shops in my area will just rebuild the joints...they refuse to remove the whole passenger side shaft on camrys...because the bearing is so seized most of the time. i personally don't like rebuilding the joints...i have had problems with the crimp-rings that hold the cv-boots on... as far as the allen bolts...which ones were you referring to?
@wbass79 On my 92 Camry wagon there are 6 allen bolts I believe that join the cv axle to the intermediate shaft on the wheel side of the i-shaft bearing area. I noticed in your video that you do not have them. I was thinking I could just change it there and call it good but the manual mysteriously warned against it. At the very worst, if I really wanted to remove the i-shaft I suppose I could get a slide hammer and pull it out like they do on the driver side. Your thoughts?
@bingchery ok..i think i know what you are refering to now...i think your reman cv-shfts fit either side on the v-6 models...and it's a bolt on set-up....i have not changed one on the v-6 yet... i don't see why you would have to remove your i-shaft...i would match mark your cv shaft to your i-shaft fisrt, then try to disasemble it. do they give you torque specs and a tightening pattern for re-assembly in your haynes manual?
@wbass79 My reply didn't make it for some reason. On my Camry the CV axle looks quite different. It has 6 allen bolts holding the passenger CV axle to the intermediate shaft. I was thinking I could remove the bolts, take the cv axle out and bolt the new one in. I am not sure why Haynes warns against this, but I did notice the one you were working on did not have the allen bolts.
@bingchery i say go for it....just make sure you match mark the cv shaft and i-shaft in case you need to put it back together....good luck and thanks for watching
Excellent video! After four evenings pounding, heating, freezing, lubricating that frozen mid-shaft bearing, we decided to remove the motor mount. On a '97 Camry 4, didn't have to cut the shaft, though. Were able to remove the mount with shaft in place. Then took several whacks with a 10lb sledge to get the bearing free. This car spent 13 winters in Wisconsin.
well, I swear that little stub shaft wouldn't budge. I'm glad I bought the shaft and motor mount as one piece from a junkyard. I needed that motor mount anyway. But, the flywheel is fixed as well as a transmission line that needed new O-rings. I'm proud of myself now. Git-R-Done
@choidj yes. i would put a rag on your jack's platform before you put it on your oil pan. make sure the rest of the car is supported with jack stands or cribbing and wheels are chocked. the engine/trans will still have two motor mounts still connected, so you won't be putting the full weight of the engine on the jack. thanks for watching.
doing this right now. I removed the motor mount because there was no friggin' way to pull out the driveshaft from that bearing carrier. (93 camry xle v6) I have hammered and hammered and hammered....heated the bearing, and hammered. I'm using an 8" piece of 4x4 treated wood on the end of the shaft. LOL. I will get it. But thanks for the GREAT upload. Perfect.
Hey i got a 92 Toyota Camry I have to replace the passenger drive shaft I have never done it before, Do I need to remove the engine mount or can I just tap the shaft out with a hammer? So I have to remove the clip you talked about at the end of the video? I would really appreciate it.
@1834Benji after removing the retaining clip & losening the retaining bolt on the mount, i would soak the whole bearing down with penatrating oil. then i would try to tap it out. if you live in a warmer climate, you might be able to get the bearing out without removing the motor mount. if you live in the north or midwest...good luck...most of the time in those climates, the bearing will be siezed in the mount and you'll have to remove the mount. thanks for watching.
Very helpful, thanks. I was determined to not remove that mount, but I did remove the exhaust and cut the axle like you (I cut close to the bearing so I could get my 4 lb hand sledge on it). With the exhaust out of the way and with some PB'laster on the bearing I managed to get it out. I cleaned the mount with some 600 sandpaper and put anti-seize on it, and oiled the near bearing, but it wouldn't go in. Turns out it's remanned and painted, I scraped the paint off (razor) and it went right in!
Thank you, very helpful. My went just a bit differently, but your video was very helpful (so I knew what I was getting into!). I was determined to remove the axle while still in the car, so I hit the bearing edges with penetrating lubricant and hit the edge of the inboard joint with a 4 lb hand sledge for a day with no success. Then I removed the exhaust like you did, cut the axle close to the transmission and bearing, and swung at it violently from there and I had enough room that it worked,
thx. After you cut the Axle, true, bang as you wish, she won't come out. Tried 3 Jaw Pullers and a bottle jack (transmission pressing against bearing). Of course they failed. Used a simple jack and block of wood under engine oil pan to slightly lift engine area to relieve the pressure. The rear engine mount was the worst due to the circular rear engine mount cylinder thingie that is vertical above the bearing (handles weight of engine, right ?). Remove its 3 nuts and fish the whole thing out.
@DrewPierceBoston the motor mount that the mid-shaft bearing sits in is attached to the engine by 4 bolts and the rubber part of the mount is attached to the frame w 3 nuts/studs.it is usually very difficult to get the bearing out of the motor mount. i know the vid didn't portray that.i usually open up a vice wide enough to have the jaws make contact w the motor mount and the bearing sits in the opening.that way you can hit it w a sledge and all the force goes on the bearing. thanks for watching
@wbass79 ... thx Wes ... worked great the only surprise was the rubber mount part. I could not take if off from the top nut with my tools after removing the 4 mount nuts. Had to take off the 3 rubber mount nuts, and fish/twist and turn it out. I am glad i cut the axle and forced the issue as opposed to just doing a boot fix. thx.
@panchovillaxx7 didn't drain the trans. when you pull the axles, you lose some fluid out of the differential (it takes tran fluid). its resivor is separate from the trans. the check/fill plug is on the firewall side of the trans. i use some tubing and a syringe to fill it. thanks for watching.
i commented on the other vid but now ill eat my words thats a good way i even asked some guys mechanics and they didnt know that trick but i hope folks realize you are saveing thaem a lot of down right misery i did one and it went good came right out the next one well you know cant thank you enough
I replaced the differential seal on my Camry when I replaced the axle. It's easy, as wbass said. I also wrapped some paper around the sealing surface of the new axle to protect it from scratches. When the axle was just about to go into the differential, I removed the paper and coated the the sealing surface with oil.
The arrogance and constipated attitude of retail auto mechanics is part of the reason I do even more of my own repairs. Let them continue to lose customers with their attitude.
@s9bryant it's pretty easy. you should buy a seal puller (about $10). the seal pulls out easy w the seal puller. then you can use a seal driver, large socket or block of wood to drive the new one in...just be careful so you don't damage the seal race when you remove it and that you don't damage the new seal when you set it in.
@wbass79 Hey wbass, I have now tried this and it didn't go well. Once the shaft was changed, I drove off about 100 feet. I lost drive and had a "ratchet noise" coming from it. What did I do wrong and what am I faced with?
@HunterCO1 i don't know where you are getting your parts from, but all the places i've dealt with only have a core charge on the driver's side axle...the passenger side doesn't have one...
@wbass79 Since I do it for a living I get parts from many sources. If you buy a new axle there is no core. However why on gods earth you waste all that time cutting the axle in half is beyond me. 90% of the time there is no need to remove the mount either. I could have changed that axle in 15 mins. I don't get why people who don't know what they are doing make videos pretending they know what they are doing.
@HunterCO1 if you live where there is salt used on the road during the winter..most of the time that bearing will be seized into the motor mount really bad...most back yard mechanics wont have a 2 or 4 post lift to get the car up in the air to a decent working height either..but they will probably have the tools that i was using... i talked with several local repair shops in my area..they won't change the whole shaft..they just changed the joints..they said the whole axle is too hard to get out
@wbass79 In 20 years as a tech I have never not changed the whole shaft. I am well aware of cars from the east coast they are the most rusted piles of shit on the road. I have my ways I can usually get them out time is money and I am not going to tear more crap apart than I have to. Even when I do have to remove the mount I still don't get why you cut the axle that is pointless I take the whole assembly out.
@HunterCO1 if you charge less than $60 to replace all of the joints and boots...then people should definatly take their car to you... since a new shaft costs only about $60 and there is no core charge for old one...who cares if you spend less than a minute cutting out the old one...it's junk anyways.. there's more clearance to get it out if you cut it :)
@HunterCO1 Cutting that axle was a lot quicker than the pounding it took to get that bearing out. And without a lift, no way. The core charge would have not been worth the frustration ( Advanced Auto didn't even have a core charge). This video was spot on, and worked perfect for me. Thank you wbass!
@GStone Thats because you don't know what your doing and its not faster I could have changed that axle in 1/3 of the time all the bullshit he removed is pointless I do it for a living and could have changed that axle in 15 minutes and never have cut it or removed all the bullshit he did.
@GStone simple I know what I am doing and have the tools. My knowledge is not free hence why youtube breeds dumbfucks. funny how everyone thinks they are so smart on youtube it cracks me up.
My knowledge and tools did not come free and since the moron of this video thinks its so simple I will take that and laugh my ass off.
@HunterCO1 O.K., I see what your getting at. That only professional axle-changers should attempt this. It 'aint rocket science dude. It actually was simple. You can probably understand why people are reluctant to deal with someone who does it for a livin' and do it themselves. The dumbfucks are bred way before they make it to YouTube.
@GStone No once agian your stupidity shines threw. go ahead moron take ten times more shit apart and cut shit in half and spend ten times the amount of time to get the job done and of course in the end call me stupid LMFAO..........Then when through your own stupidity you fuck ten more things up it will end up at a shop I see it every day...LOL
Its all good with me videos like this make me laugh you have no idea.....LOL
@HunterCO1 Maybe you should learn some spellin' before you call someone stupid. LOL, LMFAO.....what are you a teenage girl? I'm sorry that it only took a YouTube video for me to learn what took you 20 years. Jesus, like I said it was pretty damn easy.
@lakshitha55 if you can get the bearing out with the motor mount still on the car, you don't have to cut the shaft. The method i showed usually has to be done if you live in a climate where salt is used on the roads...the corosion seizes the bearing in the motor mount and usually takes considerable force to get it out.
I mounted the old bracket to a piece of wood and smacked the bearing out with a sledge hammer. There were some small craters on the inner surface of the bracket where the bearing rested. I installed another used bracket that I bought on the web because the original didn't look good. I suggest having another bracket on hand before doing the repair.
I also put anti-seize compound on the bracket and bearing to make it easier to remove in the future.
@jigglar good idea using the anti-seize...if you ever have to do the repair again...you just made it easier on yourself. thanks for watching and your input.
I used your approach yesterday to replace the right axle on a 1993 Camry with a 5SFE. Everything went great. I used an engine support bar on top of the engine compartment instead of a hoist. After cutting the axle, I pulled out the part of the axle that was in the differential. That left plenty of room to remove the motor mount bracket and inboard CV joint.
If you would like to remove the disemboweled-cut off axle together with the axel mount and motor mount (without removing exhaust as shown).... lift engine unbolt rear mount and axle mount then rotozip the legs off the motor mount .....mount costs an extra $50 (which probably needs replaced anyhow) but the whole assembly will come out quik and easy ...
@tigertron11 if you live in a climate where they don't use salt on the roadways for winter, you may be able to get the bearing out of the motor mount housing without removing the motor mount from the engine or frame. you don't have to removed any or the frame/sub-frame cross members. hope that helps.
The Irwin website under the 'locking wrenches' category shows a model 10LW vise-grip which looks similar to the one in the video. The jaws can handle up to 1-1/8 inch.
I had to remove motor mount on 2006 Siena and I had to take it to a machine shop to get them to remove "half shaft" and let them repress it and I will install entire unit at one time (no motor to secure in the 2006)... take care and thanks again as I also could not POUND that bearing out!
@etiennekai thanks for watching. once i did have a very stuborn bearing..i was pounding so hard the axle shaft shattered, fragmented and a peice imbedded in my hand...i had to get surgery to get it removed because it was so deep. glad the machine shop worked for you.
@wbass79 thanks for the reply, I did try your technique and I just posted another video showing what I had to do to get to an impossible bolt installed back at the center bracket... Toyota Sienna 2006 was hell (they block access to bolt) they must press that thing together at the factor and never want it serviced... I cut bracket to be able to get to bracket. Thanks again for your great video. Hope that hand is better (of course it is) but just wishing you well...
@xXST3MsXx if you live in a climate where they don't use salt on the roads, you might be able to get it out without cutting it. remove the snap ring and retaining nut on the motor mount. then place your vice-grip on the shaft in between the motor mount and transmission. tap the vice-grips with a heavy hammer. if the bearing isn't seized in the motor mount, it should come out. hope that helps.
@wbass79 yes it did thank you....it took me a while to get it out but i got a good hold on it with a pry bar and it came right on out....lol dude also keep making videos for the toyota lol that way when i need to know how to do something ill just come to your channel lol
@whatsurnm3 i don't believe your 200sx has a midshaft bearing...if youdon't have a manual for your car, you might me able to find a chilton's or hayne's manual @ a local library.
I seated the axle shaft splines into the diff, and the bearing into the housing. The bearing is as far into the housing as it wil go (I think). But the inner metal flange that's supposed to seat over the oil seal is still 1/2 inch from seating. If the bearing feels fully seated, will it go further into the housing if you pound the axle as you demonstrated? I'm afraid to bust something.
I ran into that problem once before. I removed the shaft and found a piece of PVC pipe that fit over the spline end, but caught the metal flange. I tapped the PVC pipe until it moved the metal flange towards the boot end. After i reinstalled the CV axle, i took the same peice of PVC pipe, split it length-wise, placed one half against the metal flanged and tapped it lightly as i spun the shaft until it seated over the oil seal
First off, Excellent video wbass. I just wanted to let people know that the motor mount on the v6 (1mz-fe), is larger than on the I4 models, its too big to lower out of the vehicle. You need to get the motor side up very high and menouver the bottom piece out the bottom, then menouver the top piece out the side. I spent more time trying to get the unbolted motor mount out of the car than on everything else cobined (seriously). Dont expect the bearing to pop out as easy as his either. Good luck.
@sleezygreezy great points on the v6 model...i was not familiar with them. and i was really surprised when the bearing came out of the motor mount that easy. all of the other ones i've done, have taken A LOT of work to get out. thanks for watching.
@soulles2002 i got my parts at autozone, but advance had them too. if you don't have either in your area, try carpartswholesale. com. i've had good luck with them
Performed this repair a month ago and ran into a problem. Was unable to sink the shaft deep enough into the differential to reset the snap ring on the bracket. I discovered that on all NEW (not remaned) cv's there is a brass ring on the end of the shaft to prevent damage to the shaft during shipping. It can be left on there if everything fits but in my case it didnt unless it was removed. For anyone who runs into this problem. We simply cut it off the shaft after everything had been installed.
thank you for sharing this great video. the long side "passenger side on a honda accord is much better designed, you would never have to cut the mid shaft as it's not part of the motor mount. Your video on a camry is top notch thank you very much
Good job; but hard work. Good to be young.
wkl747 1 month ago
@wkl747 thanks for watching.
wbass79 1 month ago
then another 15 minutes to clean the metal of all burrs and corrosion which was aplenty! Great job on the video, but if you decide to redo it, add the removal of the assembly for greater impact on those using your video as a resource!
sgtduckyboy64 2 months ago
@sgtduckyboy64 yes i totally know what you are talking about with how much work it is normally to get the midshaft bearing out of the motormount. all of the cars i have done in the past were very similar to what you described. unfortunatly the car i used to make the video was fairly easy...prob becase the car ahad a severe oil leak and was constantly soaking down the bearing and mount. glad you got it done, and thanks for watching.
wbass79 2 months ago
I will add to that, if you rotate the assembled piece upside down, then remove the nut holding the motormount to the chassis, this makes is very simple to move the two pieces out and to put them back in. Then, when I was knocking my axle out of the carrier, it took two guys, with the same hammer as you, over a half hour to get the shaft out and the seized race!!! Simply nuts!
sgtduckyboy64 2 months ago
This really helped me with my axle replacement. However I have a couple of extra points to add. First off, I didnt see this until AFTER I got stuck at the axle removal. THen I found out this thing is seized. I tried heat, pronged separators, slide hammers, PB blaster, Kroil, and variations of them with each other with no avail.
sgtduckyboy64 2 months ago
I have one problem with cutting the cv axle I had to pay a 51 buck core charge and if I cut i I lose the money. I am a disabled VET so even a few bucks is a lot to me and my family. How can it be done without cutting it?
ncrdisabled 3 months ago
@ncrdisabled hi, if you can get the car up high enough, you mite be able to position the axle in the right spot to be able to remove it. otherwise, i know some places out there (or there used to be) that didn't have a core charge on them. good luck and thanks for watching.
wbass79 3 months ago
@ncrdisabled I got mine from rockauto no need for the core and the whole cost was right around 51 dollars
jeremcfadden 2 months ago
@jeremcfadden I checked rockauto and it would cost me 51 plus 20 bucks for shipping which means I lose 20 bucks due to rockauto is not close . 20 bucks is a lot to me as I am a disabled vet . I wish I could find one no core charge local and only cost 51 bucks .
ncrdisabled 2 months ago
@jeremcfadden for anyone other than the war vet troll the price shipped, (no core charges needed) is right about $55 depending on where you live
jeremcfadden 2 months ago
Thanks for all your help. My motor mount was bad and needed replacing. As tricky as it was positioning the bracket and mount during removal, what is your suggestion for installation; bracket then motor mount, motor mount then bracket, or assembled and installed as one?
bobioni57 4 months ago
@bobioni57 last time that i swaped engines on a toyota, i had the mount and bracket allembled together, then i secured the motor mount bolts to the subrame loosely, then i bolted the bracket to the engine block, then i came back and finished tightening the motormount nuts. good luck with your repair. thanks for watching.
wbass79 4 months ago
Isn't the motor mount the black part behind the midshaft bearing you point out at the 48 second mark of the video and the drive shaft actually passes through the motor mount bracket?
bobioni57 4 months ago
@bobioni57 ok..i understand now...yeah, that is correct.
wbass79 4 months ago
In my last comment, I referred to the part you were holding in your left hand prior to sledging as the motor mount housing. I guess it's actually known as the motor mount carrier? Is this part available? The carrier holes through which the 14mm bolts screw in seem somewhat worn away.
bobioni57 4 months ago
At the point in the video when you're preparing to sledge the bearing out of the housing, you're holding the housing with your left hand. Isn't the part of the housing in your left hand held on by a nut anchoring the housing to the motor mount? How do you access that nut. Also, if supporting the engine at the oil pan, how much do I need to jack up the engine?
bobioni57 4 months ago
@bobioni57 hi, that is the motor mount in my hand. the bearing has a large retaining clip and a set bolt holding it in the bearing in the motor mount. i'm sure you can find the part online, at a junk yard or though a toyota dealership (not sure on the price though). if you are supporting the engine fro the oil pan, you don't have to raise the engine much, if at all...just support it so it does't drop. thanks for watching.
wbass79 4 months ago
After making the shaft cut(s), does the inner end of the passenger side shaft simply pull out of the differential or will it need to be pryed out?
bobioni57 4 months ago
@bobioni57 hi, that shaft will come right out of the differential..no prying needed. thanks for watching.
wbass79 4 months ago
I might have to try the cutting shaft/mount removal technique. I've been wailing on it with an air hammer for half an hour and it hasn't budged. Thanks for the info - good to know I'm not the only one having trouble!
sempercliff 5 months ago
@sempercliff yeah that bearing really get's seized in there. good luck and thanks for watching.
wbass79 5 months ago
@wbass79 I finally got it out, but I couldn't get the bracket that supports the bearing out without taking it apart from the actual motor mount - it was way too tight. The underside of my vehicle (93 w/ 5SFE) looked quite a bit different - there was a bar going from the block to the intake manifold that I also had to remove, and that gave me enough space to flip it around and take it apart. There was no way it was coming out the side without removing the PS pump/lines.
sempercliff 5 months ago
@sempercliff wow..sounds like you had to do some more work. good job figuring it out.
wbass79 5 months ago
I might have to try the cutting shaft/mount removal technique. I've been wailing on it with an air hammer for half an hour and it hasn't budged. Thanks for the info - good to know I'm not the only one having trouble!
sempercliff 5 months ago
I might have to try the cutting shaft/mount removal technique. I've been wailing on it with an air hammer for half an hour and it hasn't budged. Thanks for the info - at least I'm not the only one having trouble!
sempercliff 5 months ago
THANK YOU!!!!! I'm replacing my tranny tonight/tomorrow and This helps alot. I'm going to take out the drivers side after I drop the tranny just so I have a lil more room.
AshyBoneVR4 6 months ago
@AshyBoneVR4 glad it helped. thanks for watching.
wbass79 6 months ago
@wbass79 It kinda helped, I gotta keep my cv shaft though so I can't cut mine in half.
AshyBoneVR4 6 months ago
@AshyBoneVR4 are you putting in a new shaft?
wbass79 6 months ago
@wbass79 No actually the shafts are new the tranny is bad. I gotta drop the tranny but I'm just going to get the driverside out then lower the tranny away from the passenger side cv shaft. I hate these cv shafts... Still haven't got just the drivers side off.
AshyBoneVR4 6 months ago
@AshyBoneVR4 ok. good luck with the job. yeah...these cv shafts suck. lol thanks for watching.
wbass79 6 months ago
Was it the bearing that was bad, or just the axle or is the axle one peice like that?
fueledbymusic3 6 months ago
@fueledbymusic3 the CV joints can go bad, the bearing can go bad and the differential seals can go bad. The axle can be spilt into 2 peices when you give the axle a good pull from the end (you'll separate the inner CV joint/boot. The shaft is pressed into the bearing which is usually siezed into the motormount. The whole shaft will need to be removed if your bearing or seals are bad. thanks for watching.
wbass79 6 months ago
I have been doing this job since last night and the carrier bearing is frozen inside the mount. It took all last night just to cut and remove the axle out in 3 pieces. The part that holds the bearing took 3 hrs to remove it. The 17mm nut was stuck and it took a-lot time getting it out. There was no direct path to the nut because the intake was in the way. The power steering pump was placed perfectly in the way of this whole mess. I really don't care for a $10 core for the old axle.
jimmy101112000 6 months ago
Right now I got to run this mount to a shop to have this bearing pressed out. I just hope it does not take all day putting it back together.
I would have designed this carrier bearing holder/engine mount that it holds the bearing with 3 small bolts which would not require a press or removal of the mount. There is no need for this kind of design.
jimmy101112000 6 months ago
@jimmy101112000 i couldn't agree with you more. it is a terrible design. i just replaced the axles on a 96 nissan quest. the mid-shaft bearing had exactly what you are talking about with 3- 12mm bolts holding it in. it was much easier.
wbass79 6 months ago
@wbass79 I also did a Mercury Villager which is the same thing as a Nissan Quest. I even had trouble with the passenger side with that being rusted. Shop was $100 for doing that side.
I did finish doing that Camry. I could not get the bearing fully seated to put the snap ring in. I was only off 3/16 inch and that was tapping it with a sledge. It started to deform the nut on the axle and I just said the hell with it. It will most likely stay in place. I did grease the bearing but did not help.
jimmy101112000 6 months ago
@jimmy101112000 wow...sounds like you had a really tough time on that one.
wbass79 6 months ago
@jimmy101112000 I have the same issue getting that in all the way. I also cut the axle and had to beat that bearing out which took a lot of pounding. I'm assuming he's using the vice grips as not to beat on the end of the axle?
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone I was using a vice grips to pound it back on but the carrier bearing was sticking so bad the vice grips would pop off the shaft toweards the tranny. I should have taken a sanding drum to the mount and grind it clean before re-installing the axle with a real heavy grease.
As for the driver side that one was stubborn. I had a 3 jaw puller but no slide hammer. I attached a tow chain to the 3 jaw puller and used a second car to pull it out. It was dangerous but it worked.
BS design
jimmy101112000 5 months ago
@jimmy101112000 Same here with the vice grips popping off. Plus not enough leverage with the sledge while lying under the the car. It still isn't in all the way, but it isn't leaking so I've been driving it like that.
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone Just make sure your set screw locks the bearing in so it does not slip out. So far the one I did is not going anywhere without the snap ring installed. Just keep an eye on it from time to time.
jimmy101112000 5 months ago
@jimmy101112000 sounds like you had your hands full. hope the vid helped. thanks for watching.
wbass79 6 months ago
Your videos are great. I appreciate you taking the time to put them together. I have a 92 Camry with that needs new front axle assemblies, and having your vid's to watch will make the job a lot easier for sure. I probably wouldn't fix them, but the car runs to good not to.
rgnotke1975 6 months ago
@rgnotke1975 awesome. good luck with the axles. thanks for watching.
wbass79 6 months ago
you think you could just cut the shaft right at the MM ( leaving just a short bit) and beat it out while not unbolting the MM? lol you just answered my question, hopefully mine will come out smooth! thanks
5WebGem 6 months ago
@5WebGem rewatching you said you never have been able that way, I'm going to soak it in PB and hopefully get my core money
5WebGem 6 months ago
@5WebGem good luck with it. thanks for watching.
wbass79 6 months ago
@5WebGem I tried that and there was no room because the exhaust pipe is in the way. The force I was hitting at that bearing on a vice would surely crack that engine block.
jimmy101112000 6 months ago
@jimmy101112000 I had my exhaust dropped, and it still wasnt possible. Had to remove the Motor mount from the block, and the 4 nuts underneath holding the MM bracket. The joint had to be seperated, and motor jacked up slightly to finally get it out.(throught the serp belt way)(1997V6)
5WebGem 5 months ago
@5WebGem The one I did was the same in this video with the 4 cylinder. If it had the same carrier bearing as this I would imagine the mount was harder to remove.
I think if I ever had to do one of these again and the carrier bearing is still good. I would just cut the band off the inner joint and pull the old axle out and clean the old inner cup and repack with fresh grease and put the new axle on that and put the new band on the new boot and crimp it and be done with it.
jimmy101112000 5 months ago
I had some trouble betting the CV axle assembly into my '01 Toyota Highlander correctly, until my nephew John found your video. We watched your video and found out we shouldn't be afraid to "man handle” the unit! Thank you! Great way to save money! Thanks to my late father for teaching me how to work on cars I couldn’t have done it with out him either!
campban 7 months ago
@campban glad it helped..thanks for watching.
wbass79 7 months ago
can you list the name fo the basic tool i need to this job by myself?
evz2023 7 months ago
@evz2023 hi. you'll need jack stands, floor jack, metric wrenches, saws-all or angle grinder w a cut wheel, metric sockets, heavy hammer (sledge hammer) and some sort of tie rod end separating tool (there are several models you can use). thanks for watching.
wbass79 7 months ago
Have just finished doing the driver side cv (which would be the passenger side in USA). Rather than undo the engine mount from the crossmember, I undid the nut on the top of the engine mount (a little tricky) and then undid the mount from the engine. This requires no cutting at all during removal.
jrumbel 7 months ago
@jrumbel glad you were able to get it out that way...you are right..getting to that top mount nut/bolt is not easy!! good work. thanks for watching.
wbass79 7 months ago
very helpful! thanks for making such a interesting video for you useful time...lots of appriciation.
evz2023 7 months ago
@evz2023 thanks for watching.
wbass79 7 months ago
My Haynes manual says take out the intermediate shaft along with the cv axle but doesn't say why. Do we really need to? Why not just take out the allen bolts and put the new cv axle in? Certainly the i-shaft bearing may be bad, but then all the bearings in the car may be bad, or fine. If the seal on the differential isn't leaking, why bother?
bingchery 8 months ago
@bingchery if you just need to repair a cv joint and want to rebuild it, you can....a lot of the repair shops in my area will just rebuild the joints...they refuse to remove the whole passenger side shaft on camrys...because the bearing is so seized most of the time. i personally don't like rebuilding the joints...i have had problems with the crimp-rings that hold the cv-boots on... as far as the allen bolts...which ones were you referring to?
wbass79 8 months ago
@wbass79 On my 92 Camry wagon there are 6 allen bolts I believe that join the cv axle to the intermediate shaft on the wheel side of the i-shaft bearing area. I noticed in your video that you do not have them. I was thinking I could just change it there and call it good but the manual mysteriously warned against it. At the very worst, if I really wanted to remove the i-shaft I suppose I could get a slide hammer and pull it out like they do on the driver side. Your thoughts?
bingchery 8 months ago
@bingchery ok..i think i know what you are refering to now...i think your reman cv-shfts fit either side on the v-6 models...and it's a bolt on set-up....i have not changed one on the v-6 yet... i don't see why you would have to remove your i-shaft...i would match mark your cv shaft to your i-shaft fisrt, then try to disasemble it. do they give you torque specs and a tightening pattern for re-assembly in your haynes manual?
wbass79 8 months ago
@wbass79 My reply didn't make it for some reason. On my Camry the CV axle looks quite different. It has 6 allen bolts holding the passenger CV axle to the intermediate shaft. I was thinking I could remove the bolts, take the cv axle out and bolt the new one in. I am not sure why Haynes warns against this, but I did notice the one you were working on did not have the allen bolts.
bingchery 8 months ago
@bingchery i say go for it....just make sure you match mark the cv shaft and i-shaft in case you need to put it back together....good luck and thanks for watching
wbass79 8 months ago
Excellent video! After four evenings pounding, heating, freezing, lubricating that frozen mid-shaft bearing, we decided to remove the motor mount. On a '97 Camry 4, didn't have to cut the shaft, though. Were able to remove the mount with shaft in place. Then took several whacks with a 10lb sledge to get the bearing free. This car spent 13 winters in Wisconsin.
mfenner123 9 months ago
@mfenner123 glad you got it out. thanks for watching.
wbass79 8 months ago
well, I swear that little stub shaft wouldn't budge. I'm glad I bought the shaft and motor mount as one piece from a junkyard. I needed that motor mount anyway. But, the flywheel is fixed as well as a transmission line that needed new O-rings. I'm proud of myself now. Git-R-Done
iceJM2007 9 months ago
@iceJM2007 good work. thanks for watching.
wbass79 9 months ago
Is it safe to support just the engine with a jack on the oil pan?
choidj 9 months ago
@choidj yes. i would put a rag on your jack's platform before you put it on your oil pan. make sure the rest of the car is supported with jack stands or cribbing and wheels are chocked. the engine/trans will still have two motor mounts still connected, so you won't be putting the full weight of the engine on the jack. thanks for watching.
wbass79 9 months ago
doing this right now. I removed the motor mount because there was no friggin' way to pull out the driveshaft from that bearing carrier. (93 camry xle v6) I have hammered and hammered and hammered....heated the bearing, and hammered. I'm using an 8" piece of 4x4 treated wood on the end of the shaft. LOL. I will get it. But thanks for the GREAT upload. Perfect.
iceJM2007 9 months ago in playlist car repair
@iceJM2007 good luck getting the bearing out. i usually have to use a small sledgehammer because it is seized in there so tight. thanks for watching.
wbass79 9 months ago
Hey i got a 92 Toyota Camry I have to replace the passenger drive shaft I have never done it before, Do I need to remove the engine mount or can I just tap the shaft out with a hammer? So I have to remove the clip you talked about at the end of the video? I would really appreciate it.
1834Benji 10 months ago
@1834Benji after removing the retaining clip & losening the retaining bolt on the mount, i would soak the whole bearing down with penatrating oil. then i would try to tap it out. if you live in a warmer climate, you might be able to get the bearing out without removing the motor mount. if you live in the north or midwest...good luck...most of the time in those climates, the bearing will be siezed in the mount and you'll have to remove the mount. thanks for watching.
wbass79 10 months ago
Very helpful, thanks. I was determined to not remove that mount, but I did remove the exhaust and cut the axle like you (I cut close to the bearing so I could get my 4 lb hand sledge on it). With the exhaust out of the way and with some PB'laster on the bearing I managed to get it out. I cleaned the mount with some 600 sandpaper and put anti-seize on it, and oiled the near bearing, but it wouldn't go in. Turns out it's remanned and painted, I scraped the paint off (razor) and it went right in!
soulshinobi 10 months ago 2
@soulshinobi very good to know...your info could really help some people who get a reman-axle... glad u got the job done. thanks for watching.
wbass79 10 months ago
Thank you, very helpful. My went just a bit differently, but your video was very helpful (so I knew what I was getting into!). I was determined to remove the axle while still in the car, so I hit the bearing edges with penetrating lubricant and hit the edge of the inboard joint with a 4 lb hand sledge for a day with no success. Then I removed the exhaust like you did, cut the axle close to the transmission and bearing, and swung at it violently from there and I had enough room that it worked,
soulshinobi 10 months ago
thx. After you cut the Axle, true, bang as you wish, she won't come out. Tried 3 Jaw Pullers and a bottle jack (transmission pressing against bearing). Of course they failed. Used a simple jack and block of wood under engine oil pan to slightly lift engine area to relieve the pressure. The rear engine mount was the worst due to the circular rear engine mount cylinder thingie that is vertical above the bearing (handles weight of engine, right ?). Remove its 3 nuts and fish the whole thing out.
DrewPierceBoston 11 months ago
@DrewPierceBoston the motor mount that the mid-shaft bearing sits in is attached to the engine by 4 bolts and the rubber part of the mount is attached to the frame w 3 nuts/studs.it is usually very difficult to get the bearing out of the motor mount. i know the vid didn't portray that.i usually open up a vice wide enough to have the jaws make contact w the motor mount and the bearing sits in the opening.that way you can hit it w a sledge and all the force goes on the bearing. thanks for watching
wbass79 11 months ago
@wbass79 ... thx Wes ... worked great the only surprise was the rubber mount part. I could not take if off from the top nut with my tools after removing the 4 mount nuts. Had to take off the 3 rubber mount nuts, and fish/twist and turn it out. I am glad i cut the axle and forced the issue as opposed to just doing a boot fix. thx.
DrewPierceBoston 11 months ago
@DrewPierceBoston glad it worked out for you
wbass79 11 months ago
amazing informative! thanks!
wufrudelu 11 months ago
@wufrudelu thanks for watching.
wbass79 11 months ago
did you had to drain the transmission fluid?
thanks for the video.
panchovillaxx7 1 year ago
@panchovillaxx7 didn't drain the trans. when you pull the axles, you lose some fluid out of the differential (it takes tran fluid). its resivor is separate from the trans. the check/fill plug is on the firewall side of the trans. i use some tubing and a syringe to fill it. thanks for watching.
wbass79 1 year ago
i commented on the other vid but now ill eat my words thats a good way i even asked some guys mechanics and they didnt know that trick but i hope folks realize you are saveing thaem a lot of down right misery i did one and it went good came right out the next one well you know cant thank you enough
speck444 1 year ago
@speck444 glad it helped. thanks for watching.
wbass79 1 year ago
I replaced the differential seal on my Camry when I replaced the axle. It's easy, as wbass said. I also wrapped some paper around the sealing surface of the new axle to protect it from scratches. When the axle was just about to go into the differential, I removed the paper and coated the the sealing surface with oil.
The arrogance and constipated attitude of retail auto mechanics is part of the reason I do even more of my own repairs. Let them continue to lose customers with their attitude.
jigglar 1 year ago
@jigglar good idea with the paper. thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
Seems like you should always replace the transmission seal. Is that difficult or how?
s9bryant 1 year ago
@s9bryant it's pretty easy. you should buy a seal puller (about $10). the seal pulls out easy w the seal puller. then you can use a seal driver, large socket or block of wood to drive the new one in...just be careful so you don't damage the seal race when you remove it and that you don't damage the new seal when you set it in.
wbass79 1 year ago
@wbass79 Hey wbass, I have now tried this and it didn't go well. Once the shaft was changed, I drove off about 100 feet. I lost drive and had a "ratchet noise" coming from it. What did I do wrong and what am I faced with?
s9bryant 10 months ago
Nice work. Very useful.
spraymalathionjerry 1 year ago
@spraymalathionjerry thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
nice
hp11208 1 year ago
@hp11208 thanks for watching.
wbass79 1 year ago
This video should be titled how NOT to change your cv axle and waste your money paying the core charge because you don't know what your doing!!
HunterCO1 1 year ago
@HunterCO1 i don't know where you are getting your parts from, but all the places i've dealt with only have a core charge on the driver's side axle...the passenger side doesn't have one...
wbass79 1 year ago
@wbass79 Since I do it for a living I get parts from many sources. If you buy a new axle there is no core. However why on gods earth you waste all that time cutting the axle in half is beyond me. 90% of the time there is no need to remove the mount either. I could have changed that axle in 15 mins. I don't get why people who don't know what they are doing make videos pretending they know what they are doing.
HunterCO1 1 year ago
@HunterCO1 if you live where there is salt used on the road during the winter..most of the time that bearing will be seized into the motor mount really bad...most back yard mechanics wont have a 2 or 4 post lift to get the car up in the air to a decent working height either..but they will probably have the tools that i was using... i talked with several local repair shops in my area..they won't change the whole shaft..they just changed the joints..they said the whole axle is too hard to get out
wbass79 1 year ago
@wbass79 In 20 years as a tech I have never not changed the whole shaft. I am well aware of cars from the east coast they are the most rusted piles of shit on the road. I have my ways I can usually get them out time is money and I am not going to tear more crap apart than I have to. Even when I do have to remove the mount I still don't get why you cut the axle that is pointless I take the whole assembly out.
HunterCO1 1 year ago
@HunterCO1 if you charge less than $60 to replace all of the joints and boots...then people should definatly take their car to you... since a new shaft costs only about $60 and there is no core charge for old one...who cares if you spend less than a minute cutting out the old one...it's junk anyways.. there's more clearance to get it out if you cut it :)
wbass79 1 year ago
@HunterCO1 Cutting that axle was a lot quicker than the pounding it took to get that bearing out. And without a lift, no way. The core charge would have not been worth the frustration ( Advanced Auto didn't even have a core charge). This video was spot on, and worked perfect for me. Thank you wbass!
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone Thats because you don't know what your doing and its not faster I could have changed that axle in 1/3 of the time all the bullshit he removed is pointless I do it for a living and could have changed that axle in 15 minutes and never have cut it or removed all the bullshit he did.
HunterCO1 5 months ago
@HunterCO1 Please explain then. If the support bearing is in there tight, how do you get it out so easy?
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone simple I know what I am doing and have the tools. My knowledge is not free hence why youtube breeds dumbfucks. funny how everyone thinks they are so smart on youtube it cracks me up.
My knowledge and tools did not come free and since the moron of this video thinks its so simple I will take that and laugh my ass off.
HunterCO1 5 months ago
@HunterCO1 O.K., I see what your getting at. That only professional axle-changers should attempt this. It 'aint rocket science dude. It actually was simple. You can probably understand why people are reluctant to deal with someone who does it for a livin' and do it themselves. The dumbfucks are bred way before they make it to YouTube.
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone No once agian your stupidity shines threw. go ahead moron take ten times more shit apart and cut shit in half and spend ten times the amount of time to get the job done and of course in the end call me stupid LMFAO..........Then when through your own stupidity you fuck ten more things up it will end up at a shop I see it every day...LOL
Its all good with me videos like this make me laugh you have no idea.....LOL
HunterCO1 5 months ago
@HunterCO1 Maybe you should learn some spellin' before you call someone stupid. LOL, LMFAO.....what are you a teenage girl? I'm sorry that it only took a YouTube video for me to learn what took you 20 years. Jesus, like I said it was pretty damn easy.
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone I rest my case the moron lost the battle does not understand basic internet protocol and now must resort to spelling. Pathetic at best LOL.
HunterCO1 5 months ago
@HunterCO1 Lost the battle, resort to spelling, basic internet protocol? Dude, you are a hoot.
GStone 5 months ago
@GStone I know and your a complete dumbass so what is your point?
HunterCO1 5 months ago
Thank you. I got a book, but this is so much easier to follow.
calpitoc 1 year ago
@calpitoc thanks for watching. glad it helped
wbass79 1 year ago
do u need to cut the axle to remove .. ?
lakshitha55 1 year ago
@lakshitha55 if you can get the bearing out with the motor mount still on the car, you don't have to cut the shaft. The method i showed usually has to be done if you live in a climate where salt is used on the roads...the corosion seizes the bearing in the motor mount and usually takes considerable force to get it out.
wbass79 1 year ago
I mounted the old bracket to a piece of wood and smacked the bearing out with a sledge hammer. There were some small craters on the inner surface of the bracket where the bearing rested. I installed another used bracket that I bought on the web because the original didn't look good. I suggest having another bracket on hand before doing the repair.
I also put anti-seize compound on the bracket and bearing to make it easier to remove in the future.
jigglar 1 year ago
@jigglar good idea using the anti-seize...if you ever have to do the repair again...you just made it easier on yourself. thanks for watching and your input.
wbass79 1 year ago
I used your approach yesterday to replace the right axle on a 1993 Camry with a 5SFE. Everything went great. I used an engine support bar on top of the engine compartment instead of a hoist. After cutting the axle, I pulled out the part of the axle that was in the differential. That left plenty of room to remove the motor mount bracket and inboard CV joint.
jigglar 1 year ago
@jigglar glad it helped you out and thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
Great vid.....
I have a time saving note....
If you would like to remove the disemboweled-cut off axle together with the axel mount and motor mount (without removing exhaust as shown).... lift engine unbolt rear mount and axle mount then rotozip the legs off the motor mount .....mount costs an extra $50 (which probably needs replaced anyhow) but the whole assembly will come out quik and easy ...
ugg59 1 year ago
@ugg59 thanks for the new tip and thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
would you normally use a punch or chisel to get that stubborn mid-shaft bearing out. sorry for the dumb questions. Thanks
tigertron11 1 year ago
also do you have to remove the cross member? Thanks
tigertron11 1 year ago
@tigertron11 if you live in a climate where they don't use salt on the roadways for winter, you may be able to get the bearing out of the motor mount housing without removing the motor mount from the engine or frame. you don't have to removed any or the frame/sub-frame cross members. hope that helps.
wbass79 1 year ago
Comment removed
tigertron11 1 year ago
what is that weird vise. looks like a parrot head. can i have the part #? thanks
tigertron11 1 year ago
I just want to make sure. since the other mounts are fastened we don't need a crane or floor jack to support the pan correct? Thanks
tigertron11 1 year ago
The Irwin model 12LC appears to be the whale-jaw vise grip.
jigglar 1 year ago
@jigglar yep the 12LC are the ones that i used..
wbass79 1 year ago
The Irwin website under the 'locking wrenches' category shows a model 10LW vise-grip which looks similar to the one in the video. The jaws can handle up to 1-1/8 inch.
jigglar 1 year ago
May I ask what make/model of vise grip you used? It looks like it is specially made to grip rods.
jigglar 1 year ago
great video! thank you.
I had to remove motor mount on 2006 Siena and I had to take it to a machine shop to get them to remove "half shaft" and let them repress it and I will install entire unit at one time (no motor to secure in the 2006)... take care and thanks again as I also could not POUND that bearing out!
kai
etiennekai 1 year ago
@etiennekai thanks for watching. once i did have a very stuborn bearing..i was pounding so hard the axle shaft shattered, fragmented and a peice imbedded in my hand...i had to get surgery to get it removed because it was so deep. glad the machine shop worked for you.
wbass79 1 year ago
@wbass79 thanks for the reply, I did try your technique and I just posted another video showing what I had to do to get to an impossible bolt installed back at the center bracket... Toyota Sienna 2006 was hell (they block access to bolt) they must press that thing together at the factor and never want it serviced... I cut bracket to be able to get to bracket. Thanks again for your great video. Hope that hand is better (of course it is) but just wishing you well...
etiennekai 1 year ago
Thanks a lot!
PappyDC 1 year ago
@PappyDC no prob...thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
thank you very helpful video!
jucaro31 1 year ago
thank you very helpfull video!
jucaro31 1 year ago
@jucaro31 thanks for watching, glad it helped
wbass79 1 year ago
without cutting it...
xXST3MsXx 1 year ago
@xXST3MsXx if you live in a climate where they don't use salt on the roads, you might be able to get it out without cutting it. remove the snap ring and retaining nut on the motor mount. then place your vice-grip on the shaft in between the motor mount and transmission. tap the vice-grips with a heavy hammer. if the bearing isn't seized in the motor mount, it should come out. hope that helps.
wbass79 1 year ago
@wbass79 yes it did thank you....it took me a while to get it out but i got a good hold on it with a pry bar and it came right on out....lol dude also keep making videos for the toyota lol that way when i need to know how to do something ill just come to your channel lol
thanks for the help
xXST3MsXx 1 year ago
is there a way to remove the inner shaft from the outer cv axle?
xXST3MsXx 1 year ago
I have 1996 nissan 200sx is it the same procedure if i change the cv axle passenger side?
whatsurnm3 1 year ago
@whatsurnm3 i don't believe your 200sx has a midshaft bearing...if youdon't have a manual for your car, you might me able to find a chilton's or hayne's manual @ a local library.
wbass79 1 year ago
@wbass79
The visegrip you used, what brand is it?
thanks
RC60618 1 year ago
I seated the axle shaft splines into the diff, and the bearing into the housing. The bearing is as far into the housing as it wil go (I think). But the inner metal flange that's supposed to seat over the oil seal is still 1/2 inch from seating. If the bearing feels fully seated, will it go further into the housing if you pound the axle as you demonstrated? I'm afraid to bust something.
mwngw 1 year ago
I ran into that problem once before. I removed the shaft and found a piece of PVC pipe that fit over the spline end, but caught the metal flange. I tapped the PVC pipe until it moved the metal flange towards the boot end. After i reinstalled the CV axle, i took the same peice of PVC pipe, split it length-wise, placed one half against the metal flanged and tapped it lightly as i spun the shaft until it seated over the oil seal
wbass79 1 year ago
good vid. thanks for uploading this very helpful
MrKeizer100 1 year ago
@MrKeizer100 glad it helped out. thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
Good video. Thanks.
9882wild 1 year ago
@9882wild thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
Great video!
Appreciate it.
maximsafonov 1 year ago
@maximsafonov glad it helped. thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
@maximsafonov glad it helped. thanks for watching.
wbass79 1 year ago
First off, Excellent video wbass. I just wanted to let people know that the motor mount on the v6 (1mz-fe), is larger than on the I4 models, its too big to lower out of the vehicle. You need to get the motor side up very high and menouver the bottom piece out the bottom, then menouver the top piece out the side. I spent more time trying to get the unbolted motor mount out of the car than on everything else cobined (seriously). Dont expect the bearing to pop out as easy as his either. Good luck.
sleezygreezy 1 year ago
@sleezygreezy great points on the v6 model...i was not familiar with them. and i was really surprised when the bearing came out of the motor mount that easy. all of the other ones i've done, have taken A LOT of work to get out. thanks for watching.
wbass79 1 year ago
Where did u get the whole axle at cuz autozobe and napa doesn't carry it
soulles2002 1 year ago
@soulles2002 i got my parts at autozone, but advance had them too. if you don't have either in your area, try carpartswholesale. com. i've had good luck with them
thanks for watching
wbass79 1 year ago
Another great video Thank you for all your info
joelin66 2 years ago
Performed this repair a month ago and ran into a problem. Was unable to sink the shaft deep enough into the differential to reset the snap ring on the bracket. I discovered that on all NEW (not remaned) cv's there is a brass ring on the end of the shaft to prevent damage to the shaft during shipping. It can be left on there if everything fits but in my case it didnt unless it was removed. For anyone who runs into this problem. We simply cut it off the shaft after everything had been installed.
Crowdpleaser07 2 years ago
great video dude..you rock...so does your ease and courage...are you a mechanic?
kunitaree 2 years ago
thank you for sharing this great video. the long side "passenger side on a honda accord is much better designed, you would never have to cut the mid shaft as it's not part of the motor mount. Your video on a camry is top notch thank you very much
mst93ho 2 years ago
This video saved my day! The new axle wouldn't install until I disconnected the ball joint knuckle, as you revealed. You're The Man!
navybadger72 2 years ago
glad it helped
wbass79 2 years ago