Noah is the man!!! Have any of you wankers ever felt the holds of the wonder dyno on North Mountain? Didn't think so. 1st time I saw it, I thought damn I'm going to flash V10! Yeah right the problem is stout and climbed by a living legend who has challenged the climbing community to what is possible. Get a life you noobs!!!
that was a lung not a dyno, I dyno has all four limbs, (arms legs* off wall for at least a second. That and things can be harder than they look so i could be very wrong but that looked no where like a V10 lung.
i dont get this. i can make those moves. its like 2 moves and its a v10. yet where i climb there are routes just as hard with way smaller grips that are graded a v1. i dont get climbing grades at all.
Armchair graders crack me up - its hard enough to grade something you CAN climb. The one constant is that those capable of climbing well spend more energy climbing than grading... get out there and send!
@Digdigs2 Agreed, armchair grading is much easier than climbing. What cracks me up more is his spotter's reaction. I think some local wildlife were probably attracted to the noise. Nice send!
I dont see how hitting 1 dyno off a decent rail to an awesome pocket constitutes a v10. I always believe you cant tell froma video but seriously v10? no way. Big moves to massive holds aren't what gives a climb a grade like that. Especially when without that move the climb is rated at what V0?
@ArjayBlogs hey due, thanks for your comment. I do have some questions for you. First off, thanks to everyone who has commented on this boulder problem, it sparked a lively debate. I have been climbing for over 20 years now and have done over 50 v10-v12 boulder problems, not that many by modern standards, but enough to where I feel familiar with the grade. So, Arjay, here are my questions: 1. Have you ever seen a video and then gone and tried the climb and found it to be much harder than
it looked? 2. can you climb v10? (if so, why not go and try this boulder problem, and then let us know what you thought!?) 3. Why is the grade so important? 4. Did you like the look of this climb, did it look fun? Satisfying to stick?
...Fred Nicole put this thing up long ago. He called it V10. Matt Wilder wrote the guidebook and adjusted grades to what he felt appropriate where needed. Why didn't he change it? (Btw, Matt is a super close friend of mine and we have discussed this problem...
@slackclimb Asking why the grade is important is not a valid question, if the grade is not important do not post it on the video. I do always believe you cant judge a grade by watching but this just seems utterly ridiculous. Im saying that in this instance i dont care how bad that crack rail is you are boosting up keeping both feet on and one hand to a v0? sorry I cant understand this grade.
@ArjayBlogs I did not say the grade was not important, if you read what I wrote, I asked you why the grade was so important to you... I think you need to go try this problem. If you have a dispute with the grade after that, then you will just have to accept that the climbing community has decided to call this thing v10 by consensus, with or without you. I'm just playing devil's advocate here for fun. Seriously though, this is a hard move. Go try it.
I got in this in my last trip to Hueco. I consider myself a very dynamic upper body strong climber. I can do several 1 arm pull ups with each arm. I could not do this route and tried it 35 times.
Climbing is never easy. Just cuz this guy made it LOOK easy doesnt mean it is. Remember how easy that one 5.14a is Chris Sharma climbs in Reel Rock Film tour... Exactly. You know that shit is hard but he makes it look like childs play.
Hahaha V4. Go down to Hueco kids and give her a gander. Not as easy as it looks and not any of the dozens of climbers that have actually done the problem (maybe over 100 sends, easy access on North mountain) have griped at the V10 rating. New guide came out just a couple of years ago, I'm sure Matt Wilder has sent this thing himself. Noah I know you from Squamish like ten years ago. Props for Ground Control.
@enatzke Very True. Tried this a month ago on a trip and not even close to the Wonderhole. Positive start hold, but not a jug. Big left foot, but in a horrible position. You more or less have to toss yourself into a deep one-arm lockoff, using strength, timing, and some serious core.
@acheong04 Nice description. There is another video of this problem on vimeo.. i think it's titled 'the wonderhole'. I may give a better show of the effort involved.
@ChillinCherokee west coast bouldering's socal database. check it out. consensus grades for many california problems. I've never done nicole overhang, but people that have have graded it lower than v8. Sorry to break the news to you. Fred is amazing, but some of his problems, as with everyones, do get downgraded.
I do wanna apologize to noah for questioning this. 4 out of every 5 people seriously upgrade the problems they do on youtube and at the time i didn't know who you were. Noah, you are a badass. props.
The start is comparable to overhang climbing. And usually when you are trying to negotiate an overhang so steep, you can hardly grab a hold a foot a foot and 1/2 over the lip. So this for looks like a v10 alright.
@SpaDerola buy a plane ticket, or drive to hueco, put your shoes on and rock off those crimps then. do it .
i was within millimeters of sticking that jug, fucking millimeters and it was ridiculously frustrating. ended up throwing out my shoulder from too many tries. it's harder than it looksl.
evilution is v12. to the lip it was v10 but a hold broke and now its v11. evilution direct is v11. The fact of the matter is its one deadpoint move off the ground and not a dyno. It also does not compare to the technique, body tension or finger strength required in contrast to other v10+ problems not to mention the aesthetics. ie the buttermilker, the mandala(bishop), full service, power of landjager(heuco), midnight lightning(yosemite).
@davervr6 all really good points. This problem may well but fun but has no prestige or intricacy of other hard ass problems . Id like to see if this guy could send other problems v10+.
I've done over 50 problems V10-v12, this one was about average difficulty. See my other videos. Also, Evilution to the lip is V9 or V10, no hold has broken and it was never v11. The wonder dyno does compare to the technique, body tension and finger strength required in contrast to other v10+ problems. I don't understand why everyone is so passionately negative about this problem and/or me.
@slackclimb It looks easy, but I've never seen it in person. I have no doubt that it is in fact a v10. I love your friend in the background screaming motivation. LOVE IT.
@fijijontsay Not debating that the move is big, but that dyno alone does not constitute a v10. You release only 1 point of contact (left arm) while both feet stick and have a hand on a rail. Also this climb has been graded from stand start (cancelling out the dyno) and achieves the grade v0, so I cant understand where v10 comes from adding 1 average dyno.
you haters need to stop being critical...dont make the sport so competitive...its not like the person that put this video on just made it v10..its v10 in the guide book..no typo..
You guys have to understand Noah has put up problems all over the country, many of which are V10+. I dont think he would yell at himself or even act like its hard if it wasn't, much less get away with it. Until you have touched the holds and tried the moves, just hold your tongue.
Climbs do look alot easier on film than in real life, were all guilty of saying, "that looks easy". The first ascent was by Fred Nicole, who put up the hardest boulder problems in the world and at over 40, continues to do so..
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
....lame. This is one of those problems you see in guide books with no stars. Is yelling at yourself really necessary? I would hate to have to climb within a 5 mile proximately of people like this not only because of the yelling but it would without a doubt be followed by an epic rant session of biblical proportions about how the problem was soo amazing. Go climb evilultion to the lip at bishop and see what a real v10 is. Jackass.
Hey guys, I've done like 40 problems V10-V12. Wonderhole is right up there. Unless you have tried the problem/done the problem, your commentary is useless. This is a great move, no matter what the grade is. Fred Nicole graded it, so I am not one to argue. I am tall, and the move still felt very difficult, maybe V9 for me. Definitely V10 for most and V11 for some. Go try it and see. Noah.
to all the comments...if you have never sat down under that problem and seen how far that hueco is from the starting crimps you have no idea what your talking about. I have tried that thing and it is a "country mile" of a move...Its V10
@ArjayBlogs Watch his other videos douche bag. If it wasn't comparable to the dozens of v-double digit boulder problems he has done he wouldn't be defending the original grade. You have no idea what that start hold feels like, therefore, you should go back to jerking off instead of talking shit about someone's youtube video.
there is a video online of two people sending this problem in street shoes, it's pretty sick.
ntlsteven 3 months ago
when was the dyno?
jayseo 4 months ago
NOT A DYNO, AND NOT A V10
grandeTO9 4 months ago
Noah is the man!!! Have any of you wankers ever felt the holds of the wonder dyno on North Mountain? Didn't think so. 1st time I saw it, I thought damn I'm going to flash V10! Yeah right the problem is stout and climbed by a living legend who has challenged the climbing community to what is possible. Get a life you noobs!!!
ZenWyattERP 4 months ago
that was a lung not a dyno, I dyno has all four limbs, (arms legs* off wall for at least a second. That and things can be harder than they look so i could be very wrong but that looked no where like a V10 lung.
mrshinypant 5 months ago
And Fred is lot shorter then most of us, couldve been dyno for him....
Dalamon1 5 months ago
Lame
Gvac4Life 5 months ago
I trust Fred Nicole's judgement. He's a little better than me...
ClimbingChrispy 6 months ago
i dont get this. i can make those moves. its like 2 moves and its a v10. yet where i climb there are routes just as hard with way smaller grips that are graded a v1. i dont get climbing grades at all.
riedstep 6 months ago
Stop raging about grades, your embarrassing climbing/bouldering communities.
sarvelaj 6 months ago
/watch?v=QT-zclmuOuA&feature=related nuff said.
ArjayBlogs 7 months ago
that move is a dyno for people shorter than 6-2 and may be soft for V10 for tall people but V10 is a good grade for your average climber
snowboarder2587 7 months ago
v10, lolololololololol. Not even a dyno, just a long reach.
andrushek11 8 months ago
Armchair graders crack me up - its hard enough to grade something you CAN climb. The one constant is that those capable of climbing well spend more energy climbing than grading... get out there and send!
Digdigs2 9 months ago 5
@Digdigs2 Well said.
slackclimb 9 months ago
@Digdigs2 Agreed, armchair grading is much easier than climbing. What cracks me up more is his spotter's reaction. I think some local wildlife were probably attracted to the noise. Nice send!
whoshallascend 9 months ago
I dont see how hitting 1 dyno off a decent rail to an awesome pocket constitutes a v10. I always believe you cant tell froma video but seriously v10? no way. Big moves to massive holds aren't what gives a climb a grade like that. Especially when without that move the climb is rated at what V0?
ArjayBlogs 9 months ago
@ArjayBlogs hey due, thanks for your comment. I do have some questions for you. First off, thanks to everyone who has commented on this boulder problem, it sparked a lively debate. I have been climbing for over 20 years now and have done over 50 v10-v12 boulder problems, not that many by modern standards, but enough to where I feel familiar with the grade. So, Arjay, here are my questions: 1. Have you ever seen a video and then gone and tried the climb and found it to be much harder than
slackclimb 9 months ago
it looked? 2. can you climb v10? (if so, why not go and try this boulder problem, and then let us know what you thought!?) 3. Why is the grade so important? 4. Did you like the look of this climb, did it look fun? Satisfying to stick?
...Fred Nicole put this thing up long ago. He called it V10. Matt Wilder wrote the guidebook and adjusted grades to what he felt appropriate where needed. Why didn't he change it? (Btw, Matt is a super close friend of mine and we have discussed this problem...
slackclimb 9 months ago
@slackclimb Asking why the grade is important is not a valid question, if the grade is not important do not post it on the video. I do always believe you cant judge a grade by watching but this just seems utterly ridiculous. Im saying that in this instance i dont care how bad that crack rail is you are boosting up keeping both feet on and one hand to a v0? sorry I cant understand this grade.
ArjayBlogs 9 months ago
@ArjayBlogs I did not say the grade was not important, if you read what I wrote, I asked you why the grade was so important to you... I think you need to go try this problem. If you have a dispute with the grade after that, then you will just have to accept that the climbing community has decided to call this thing v10 by consensus, with or without you. I'm just playing devil's advocate here for fun. Seriously though, this is a hard move. Go try it.
slackclimb 9 months ago
Static FTW! :) haha
sarvelaj 9 months ago
I got in this in my last trip to Hueco. I consider myself a very dynamic upper body strong climber. I can do several 1 arm pull ups with each arm. I could not do this route and tried it 35 times.
DevilChao5 11 months ago
Climbing is never easy. Just cuz this guy made it LOOK easy doesnt mean it is. Remember how easy that one 5.14a is Chris Sharma climbs in Reel Rock Film tour... Exactly. You know that shit is hard but he makes it look like childs play.
DevilChao5 11 months ago
Damn after so many tries I know it felt great to stick that. Nice send.
ZeroTheHero17 1 year ago
I think that it is a really beautiful problem.The difficulty isn´t the most important!!...climbing has to be fun
Gillimia 1 year ago
people are gay, if you have not climbed it you dont need to say shit.
natebrun 1 year ago
@ChillinCherokee Yes... I must be full... from eating my foot. I'm not quite sure what that means, but sure.
pdxmirage 1 year ago
Hahaha V4. Go down to Hueco kids and give her a gander. Not as easy as it looks and not any of the dozens of climbers that have actually done the problem (maybe over 100 sends, easy access on North mountain) have griped at the V10 rating. New guide came out just a couple of years ago, I'm sure Matt Wilder has sent this thing himself. Noah I know you from Squamish like ten years ago. Props for Ground Control.
enatzke 1 year ago
@enatzke Great to hear from a real climber on here! Thanks dude. Noah.
slackclimb 1 year ago 4
@enatzke Very True. Tried this a month ago on a trip and not even close to the Wonderhole. Positive start hold, but not a jug. Big left foot, but in a horrible position. You more or less have to toss yourself into a deep one-arm lockoff, using strength, timing, and some serious core.
acheong04 1 year ago
@acheong04 Nice description. There is another video of this problem on vimeo.. i think it's titled 'the wonderhole'. I may give a better show of the effort involved.
enatzke 1 year ago
funny, looked static to me
AlexDaDojoDude 1 year ago 7
@AlexDaDojoDude lol i reckon!
takemasu45 1 year ago
AHH COME ON
yeeeeah come awn
JackoSonny 1 year ago
haters gonna hate
climbers gonna climb
at least he went to hueco and sent hard.
sick climb man those crimps don't look too friendly once you're not sitting right below and that is one farrrrr stretch.
fijijontsay 1 year ago
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAARRRRGH CUM OAN
martinmedeski 1 year ago
cool voice at 0:10 !
LimeClown 1 year ago
@ChillinCherokee west coast bouldering's socal database. check it out. consensus grades for many california problems. I've never done nicole overhang, but people that have have graded it lower than v8. Sorry to break the news to you. Fred is amazing, but some of his problems, as with everyones, do get downgraded.
pdxmirage 1 year ago
I do wanna apologize to noah for questioning this. 4 out of every 5 people seriously upgrade the problems they do on youtube and at the time i didn't know who you were. Noah, you are a badass. props.
pdxmirage 1 year ago
@ChillinCherokee That's funny, cuz Fred put up the nicole overhang in joshua tree at v8 and it's since been downgraded to a solid to hard 6
pdxmirage 1 year ago
ummm. ok
pimpinainteazy100 1 year ago
this is not a v10
humansardead 1 year ago
The start is comparable to overhang climbing. And usually when you are trying to negotiate an overhang so steep, you can hardly grab a hold a foot a foot and 1/2 over the lip. So this for looks like a v10 alright.
kimboII 1 year ago
if thats a v10 i'm japenese!
SpaDerola 2 years ago
@SpaDerola buy a plane ticket, or drive to hueco, put your shoes on and rock off those crimps then. do it .
i was within millimeters of sticking that jug, fucking millimeters and it was ridiculously frustrating. ended up throwing out my shoulder from too many tries. it's harder than it looksl.
Proghead86 1 year ago
That looks suspiciously like "Wonder Hole" in Hueco, which I think is a V0.
boulderbum7 2 years ago
evilution is v12. to the lip it was v10 but a hold broke and now its v11. evilution direct is v11. The fact of the matter is its one deadpoint move off the ground and not a dyno. It also does not compare to the technique, body tension or finger strength required in contrast to other v10+ problems not to mention the aesthetics. ie the buttermilker, the mandala(bishop), full service, power of landjager(heuco), midnight lightning(yosemite).
davervr6 2 years ago
@davervr6 all really good points. This problem may well but fun but has no prestige or intricacy of other hard ass problems . Id like to see if this guy could send other problems v10+.
heucoclimber 2 years ago
I've done over 50 problems V10-v12, this one was about average difficulty. See my other videos. Also, Evilution to the lip is V9 or V10, no hold has broken and it was never v11. The wonder dyno does compare to the technique, body tension and finger strength required in contrast to other v10+ problems. I don't understand why everyone is so passionately negative about this problem and/or me.
slackclimb 1 year ago 11
@slackclimb It looks easy, but I've never seen it in person. I have no doubt that it is in fact a v10. I love your friend in the background screaming motivation. LOVE IT.
Noold 1 year ago
@slackclimb
people think it looks like a "small move" and that the holds are "good"
i'm gambling that the feet are crappy, and pulling a lip from that body position off crimps to a far hueco is anything but easy.
clearly they didnt get to see you work the move, but thats their problem. nice send man!
fijijontsay 9 months ago
@fijijontsay Not debating that the move is big, but that dyno alone does not constitute a v10. You release only 1 point of contact (left arm) while both feet stick and have a hand on a rail. Also this climb has been graded from stand start (cancelling out the dyno) and achieves the grade v0, so I cant understand where v10 comes from adding 1 average dyno.
ArjayBlogs 9 months ago
a dyno is a dynamic move, just becasue he doesnt let all four point loose doesnt mean it not a dyno.
haildaniel 2 years ago
That is not a dyno..not today, not tomorrow, not ever......
pintailrock 2 years ago
agreed! just because it's a dynamic move does not mean its a dyno.
bxrockstar 2 years ago 4
not to knock this guy as a climber, and not to call the ratings into question... but thats still not a dyno....
thoughtsormedia 2 years ago 4
Looks like a hard move, but not a dyno..
stinkoman01 2 years ago 4
People don't realize how big of a move that is, until they get on it and get shut down.
djbloom2 2 years ago 3
c'est une blague!!!!
sunny8a 2 years ago
you haters need to stop being critical...dont make the sport so competitive...its not like the person that put this video on just made it v10..its v10 in the guide book..no typo..
SpudzClimber 2 years ago 3
You guys have to understand Noah has put up problems all over the country, many of which are V10+. I dont think he would yell at himself or even act like its hard if it wasn't, much less get away with it. Until you have touched the holds and tried the moves, just hold your tongue.
Duke509 2 years ago 5
Points I agree with:
(1) the yelling is gay (very much so) but if it helps...
(2) the climb looks lame on video
(3) the rating is probably *correct* judging by the FAtionists rep (don't know this Noah guy..)
(4) try a climb before you mention what it should be rated, lots look easier then they are on video
Pomattic 2 years ago
Climbs do look alot easier on film than in real life, were all guilty of saying, "that looks easy". The first ascent was by Fred Nicole, who put up the hardest boulder problems in the world and at over 40, continues to do so..
Duke509 2 years ago 2
This comment has received too many negative votes show
....lame. This is one of those problems you see in guide books with no stars. Is yelling at yourself really necessary? I would hate to have to climb within a 5 mile proximately of people like this not only because of the yelling but it would without a doubt be followed by an epic rant session of biblical proportions about how the problem was soo amazing. Go climb evilultion to the lip at bishop and see what a real v10 is. Jackass.
davervr6 2 years ago
If that's V10, then all the V4s I've climbed are V10s atleast
TheJohnJarvinen 2 years ago
that wasn't a wonder dyno, lmao!
blueshift86 2 years ago
ummmmm i saw no dyno there
bakedwithrealchez 2 years ago
Agreed
Dynosaur85 2 years ago
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jugh123 2 years ago
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jugh123 2 years ago
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davervr6 3 years ago
if that is a v10 then hueco tanks has some soft ratings. come try the v10s out here at josh and see what you think. sweet climb though.
pdxmirage 3 years ago
Fred Nicole isn't known for his soft ratings. See dave graham mutilating his finger on fred nicole's teremer, v16.
lopside0 3 years ago
People can be dumb.
It's not about arguing or not about if its a dyno or not.
Nicole named it like that...I'Ve climbed a problem name Take it from behind and nope, it wasn't backhole action.
ClimbinOli 3 years ago 4
Comment removed
Dynosaur85 2 years ago
Hey guys, I've done like 40 problems V10-V12. Wonderhole is right up there. Unless you have tried the problem/done the problem, your commentary is useless. This is a great move, no matter what the grade is. Fred Nicole graded it, so I am not one to argue. I am tall, and the move still felt very difficult, maybe V9 for me. Definitely V10 for most and V11 for some. Go try it and see. Noah.
slackclimb 3 years ago 4
Strong move, but not a dyno. And I can't imagine that being a v10. One strong move maybe a v4. The climb has one strong move, maybe v4 at best.
boxsterwelby 3 years ago
what if that one strong move happens to be english tech grde of 7a?
probably would be worth v10
v4? come on !
DonaldBumsfeld 2 years ago
thats not a dyno its a pop u tits
NAJ3R 3 years ago
The Hueco Tanks guide book says "Wonderhole 10 feet V0+" at lunch rocks, with the photo. p63
ecrow6 3 years ago
That is the stand start from the hole, genius.
slackclimb 3 years ago 14
I agree, while it's a big move from what look like sma holds, it's not a dyno. It's a deadpoint.
meinmuk 3 years ago
it's not a dyno and certainly not wonderful. but that doesn't have anything to do with the grade
climbphil1 3 years ago
yeah its tough, but he managed the big move practically static. If it was a proper dyno then v10 maybe . . .
Speedddemon 3 years ago
yea that def is a huge move BUT at no point did he dyno in this he always had 3 points of contact on the wall
poudre618 3 years ago 2
to all the comments...if you have never sat down under that problem and seen how far that hueco is from the starting crimps you have no idea what your talking about. I have tried that thing and it is a "country mile" of a move...Its V10
mantisguy 4 years ago 17
@mantisguy good to know his feet are a country mile from his hand, i just didnt realise how tall he was then.
ArjayBlogs 7 months ago
@mantisguy guy must be country mile in height then.
ArjayBlogs 5 months ago
@ArjayBlogs Watch his other videos douche bag. If it wasn't comparable to the dozens of v-double digit boulder problems he has done he wouldn't be defending the original grade. You have no idea what that start hold feels like, therefore, you should go back to jerking off instead of talking shit about someone's youtube video.
UpoundBUTTS 4 months ago
I'd say it's a V10 if some sort of alien lives in that pocket. Otherwise...
agentwtf 4 years ago
LOL. fact.
munkel002 3 years ago
v6 maybe
AdiJah 4 years ago
v10? doubtful
Jonas223XC 4 years ago