Added: 5 years ago
From: warpedmephisto
Views: 19,286
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  • i love the air tank used to clear the chips lol, its sweet

  • You have a very nice speed for your machine! I have a Sherline and it runs alot slower when cutting. I'm thinking of adding water cooling like you have. Does cooling increase your cutting speed alot? Also I was thinking to upgrade to 10000 RPM, but I don't know if the motor will lose all the torque... at what speed are you running yours?

  • Thanks! Its actually coolant thats circulating, it just mixed really lean so it looks clear like water. Flood coolant definitely increases my cutting speed. I don't have to worry about it galling in aluminum, it carries the heat away from the workpiece and provides lubricity for cutting.

    Honestly, I wouldn't go for a higher speed spindle. In this video I'm probably going 4300 RPM, 0.05" DOC and 8 IPM or so. The only time I max out the spindle at 10k is when I'm using tiny cutters (1/32").

  • I have just started to cut my first aluminium, and what I didn't realize was that you have to know alot about materials, feed and speeds, etc. The CAD/CAM part is no problems for me, I know computers well, but the other stuff is a bit tricky. I can tell you that I have broken a couple of end mills... :)

    By the way, very nice code! I can see that you are using full speed all the time when not cutting. Very nice!

  • Yeah, there's definitely a learning curve that comes with it. Don't feel bad about the broken cutters, that just shows you're determined and haven't given up. :-)

    The program I actually hand coded rather than using my CAM software (well, before I knew how to use it well enough to actually program stuff).

  • Yeasterday I was trying to cut aluminium with a carbide cutter (2 flute, 1/4"), but it was a very bad noise and the finish was very poor.

    Are you supposed to cut aluminium with carbide? If I use my HSS end mills there is almost no noise at all and much better finish. What type of cutter are you using in the video?

  • You can definitely use carbide in aluminum, but it likes to be run at about double the speed of HSS (hard to do on our small machines). I used to use all HSS until I realized that quality US made HSS cutters were about the same price as US made carbide cutters that last about 3-4 times longer. Also, carbide cutters have a LOT less tendency to flex and cause chatter, especially with smaller dia. cutters. It takes some toying around with to get the speeds/feeds right.

  • Ran out of room in the above comment...

    In the video both are carbide cutters, first is a 3/16" Atrax 2-flute EM, second is a 1/8" Atrax 2-flute EM. I used to use Niagara HSS cutters for this operation, but they wore out too fast and cost too much.

    I'm most certainly underfeeding the cutter (compared to ideal feedrates for both HSS and carbide) but you have to give up something on a small machine - it simply can't take a huge bite. I get around that with higher RPM's and slower feeds.

  • How many HP is in the motor? 1/4 HP? The max RPM for my Sherline is 2800 RPM.

    As I have learned you should go with low RPM if you have a big cutter, and high with a smaller cutter, right?

    Also the feed should be greater with a small cutter? And lesser with a big one?

    Started to cut aluminium a couple of days ago, so I'm really a newbie. But I have vaccation now so I will keep cutting for a couple of weeks more... :)

  • Yep, 1/4 HP with 10k max rpm. I do plan on upgrading to a 3/4 HP variable speed DC motor in the near future though - at about the same or less rpm.

    Generally, yes, higher RPM for smaller cutters and lower RPM for larger cutters(to keep the surface speed the equivalent).

    Also, from my experience I generally feed small cutters less than large cutters - generally in the form of a lower feedrate. A little cutter will snap if you load it up as much as a large cutter.

  • Ahhh okey... :) ... thanks for the advises!

    Well I have only tried carbide once, and it was a pretty deep cut, maybe that's why. I guess that the grinding noise will be redused with some liquid cooling.

    Actullay I broke my 1/4" carbide cutter with a VERY deep cut. I had forgotten that I should start the program 10 mm above the stock and instead started 0 mm above. That resulted in a 12 mm deep cut and a cutter that was flying with great speed in the wall. Will never do that again... :)

  • Before you try flood coolant (can get messy) you might want to try just brushing or spraying on some type of light lube for use in aluminum.  WD-40 actually works great in aluminum.

  • how much is that machine?

  • Hi Warpedmethisto.

    This looks good, keep up the good work!

  • i neeed that machine

  • do you do this for a job or this your angel??

  • thats sick, got any finished pics of it? i must see

  • somebodys rich lol

  • LOL Best comment yet.

  • lol np its true tho :P good luck milling more guns lol

  • reallllly rich lmao

  • I <3 your boltpins(foregos) andy i need to grab some more whenever you make them

  • thats cool every body elese is just fagholes

  • what does this do.

  • What are the Dimensions to do this?

  • thats kinda boring, but cool to see how its all done :)

  • that was a bit interesting, i always enjoy the milling processes!

  • That is awesome for a Taig! I am probably going to get the 4 axis... based in part on this. How did you keep the vice from scratching the ano and w/o using something that would let it shake around?

  • I used 4 T-nuts, 4 bolts and 4 little rectangles with offset holes in them (geometry of rectangles matched groove on vice) and just tightened it all down. Ideally you'd want the through-bolt situated between two points as to not create a fulcrum, but it works. The vice is ground and it doesn't slide around any so scratching isn't a problem. In fact, the rest of the table is more dinged from use than the section that is covered up by the vice.

  • thats really cool

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