As usual, a very instructive video. Some questions, though, if you don't mind. Do you completely wrap the whole chip including the bud? Do you remove the wrapping after the wound has healed? Why do you prefer chip budding vs. shield/T-budding? Thanks again.
@drcochran1 I wrap the whole area. I prefer the chip bud as demonstrated here to the T or shield buding as its easier, I was shown how to do it by a profesional, and it works. I'm not saying the other ways don't work, but I know this way does and I like to keep it simple. I usually remove the tape in the late autumn for sometimes forghet and leave it on over the winter, doesn't seem to matter.
I'll try to put some videos of live chip budding up on real trees this summer
Great. I have seen most of your videos and gained a lot from them. I have watched your videos carefully and it is amazing to see how you use your thumbs to have a controlled cut.Are there any other techniques to hold knife?
Great. I have seen most of your videos and gained a lot from them. I have watched your few videos carefully and it is amazing to see how you use your thumbs to have a controlled cut.Are there any other techniques to hold knife?
@adidasbooi Thanks fro the enquiry. This is a demonstration of the technique of chip budding an apple tree. Obviously, as I say, this is a bench demonstration, this wood isn't going to grow, its easier to show the technique close up this way.
This is how fruit trees are propagated, the bud is the chosen variety and it will grow away as such in the stock (or would if the stock was alive and in the ground). The stock controls the size of the resulting tree, the bud controls the variety.
@stephenhayesuk Ok. Sorry i am not very good at english so i don't understand all you try to explain in the video. You seem to have a lot of knowledge. Thanks for your answer and keep it up. Leo
@adidasbooi Many thanks, no need to apologise for asking an honest question, it is my pleasure to pass on some of the useful knowledge I have gained from books and experience.
Now I know how the garden centres do it. We have a Katie apple tree spread out on a trellis/bambos & a discovery so that they can pollinate each other.....has it got to be an apple tree bud that you put on or could it be another fruit...plum or peach as an example?
@Macsgrafs Nope, it has to be apple to apple. Pears graft on to quince or seedling pear stock, I beleive you can alos graft them on to hawthorn but haven;t tried. Stone fruits need their own stocks, mainly a type called Saint Julian A in England.
You can't graft apples or pears n to stone fruit rot stocks or vice versa
Certainly the scion wood should free from any visible dirt, but applying alcohol might do more harm than good.. If the wood was virus infected, it would be through the entire substance of the wood, so external application could do no good, but might damage the live cells at cut surface and prevent union. I keep the rubbing alcohol for my tools
I have not had virus problems in apple trees, but it does occur. If you use scion wood from healthy trees there is unlikely to be a problem.
This is wonderful, thank you for letting me know. I shall be practicing all Spring. We want to propagate from an old tree onto a rootstock. These we can buy near to us but I just wanted to ask if we plant some new rootstocks in the Spring should we leave it a year before trying this method or do you think we could try this in the Summer and then in the following year cut the top leaving the chip to grow on? I would appreciate any advice, thanks.
You can gtake a chance on grafting next spring, as long as you make sure its a really good qiality well rooted stock and you are sure to water it well. Better results are usualy obtained grafting on to stocks which have had a season in the earth, but if you can buy several stocks, why not give it a go?
good question wahidjon. As I have said on several occasions in my videos, I am talking about my conditions here in southern England. Your conditions may be different, obviously in Australia/New Zealand July is winter. You need to make the adjustment.
The operation of chip budding is done in late summer. This is important since (A) the wood to be budded in must be mature enough, and (B) there has to be enough of the growing season left to allow union to take place. For us, that's late July.
I have tried grafting after wathing your videos and I had a success-rate of aprox 50% I'm very satisfied with that for now but next year I'll try to do even better.
Thank you so much for these videos. I tried 6 grafts this spring,after watching your excellent grafting demos.Only 1 of them took.....I didn't have any dormant twigs saved,but I tried it anyway....So I'm pleased that one's grown.Another week or so & I'll try this method. Most of this year's growth is still "downy" so perhaps I should wait till it matures a bit??? Everything is behind this year,throughout Canada.Thanks again,I'd been looking forward to a demo of this technique.
Thanks. Timing is relative, when I say late July/early August I refer to southern England. Look for strong, mature current year;s scion wood. you have a few weeks leeway either side. the wood needs to be a littel beyond the stage of being green and sappy. use hte most mature wood from the bottom of the leader.
Thank you, Stephen....excellent. My only question: what is the best placement on the stock tree for this bud? Last year's growth? Or could it go anywhere?
Ordinarily you would chip bud to propagate a new tree of the chosen variety, so bud on to a 1 year old stock about 7-12 mm diameter, about 6-8 inches above ground level.
you can also chip bud into an existing tree if you want to bud in different varieties, for example to create a 'family' (multi-variety) apple tree ( I've done this) or add a pollinator branch to an otherwise infertile apple tree. 1cm diameter give or take is right
As usual, a very instructive video. Some questions, though, if you don't mind. Do you completely wrap the whole chip including the bud? Do you remove the wrapping after the wound has healed? Why do you prefer chip budding vs. shield/T-budding? Thanks again.
drcochran1 1 year ago
@drcochran1 I wrap the whole area. I prefer the chip bud as demonstrated here to the T or shield buding as its easier, I was shown how to do it by a profesional, and it works. I'm not saying the other ways don't work, but I know this way does and I like to keep it simple. I usually remove the tape in the late autumn for sometimes forghet and leave it on over the winter, doesn't seem to matter.
I'll try to put some videos of live chip budding up on real trees this summer
stephenhayesuk 1 year ago
can this be used for star fruit trees?
ChocolateAi13 1 year ago
paylaşımın için sağol
captaiiin 1 year ago
Thank you. Great video. Very clear explanation. Best that I have seen on You Tube.
Can you use the same technique for peach trees. ie Yellow to cling peach?
Flyonthewall357 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi
Great. I have seen most of your videos and gained a lot from them. I have watched your videos carefully and it is amazing to see how you use your thumbs to have a controlled cut.Are there any other techniques to hold knife?
May God bless you.
Thanks
VERSATILE27 1 year ago
Hi
Great. I have seen most of your videos and gained a lot from them. I have watched your few videos carefully and it is amazing to see how you use your thumbs to have a controlled cut.Are there any other techniques to hold knife?
May God bless you.
Thanks
VERSATILE27 1 year ago
what are you doing?? I dont understand why? whats the point?
adidasbooi 1 year ago
@adidasbooi Thanks fro the enquiry. This is a demonstration of the technique of chip budding an apple tree. Obviously, as I say, this is a bench demonstration, this wood isn't going to grow, its easier to show the technique close up this way.
This is how fruit trees are propagated, the bud is the chosen variety and it will grow away as such in the stock (or would if the stock was alive and in the ground). The stock controls the size of the resulting tree, the bud controls the variety.
stephenhayesuk 1 year ago
@stephenhayesuk Ok. Sorry i am not very good at english so i don't understand all you try to explain in the video. You seem to have a lot of knowledge. Thanks for your answer and keep it up. Leo
adidasbooi 1 year ago
@adidasbooi Many thanks, no need to apologise for asking an honest question, it is my pleasure to pass on some of the useful knowledge I have gained from books and experience.
stephenhayesuk 1 year ago
@stephenhayesuk No thank you for explaining! I liked it and will watch your other videos thanks!
adidasbooi 1 year ago
lol wood
danecooktz 1 year ago
thank you !
mark17781 1 year ago
Now I know how the garden centres do it. We have a Katie apple tree spread out on a trellis/bambos & a discovery so that they can pollinate each other.....has it got to be an apple tree bud that you put on or could it be another fruit...plum or peach as an example?
Great vids, Ross
Macsgrafs 1 year ago
@Macsgrafs Nope, it has to be apple to apple. Pears graft on to quince or seedling pear stock, I beleive you can alos graft them on to hawthorn but haven;t tried. Stone fruits need their own stocks, mainly a type called Saint Julian A in England.
You can't graft apples or pears n to stone fruit rot stocks or vice versa
regards
stephenhayesuk 1 year ago
Hello from Yugoslavia, great video.
Thank you and Veliko Hvala.
prognanica 2 years ago
Thank you Stephen!
I also like your videos very much. You are doing a great thing for us who want to learn.
Peter,
Slovenia
Perootube 2 years ago
Should scion wood be sterilized before grafting to kill viruses...
would it hurt the scion to dip it into rubbing alcohol for a few seconds?
What does it mean when people use virus free scion wood?
agrotis79 2 years ago
Certainly the scion wood should free from any visible dirt, but applying alcohol might do more harm than good.. If the wood was virus infected, it would be through the entire substance of the wood, so external application could do no good, but might damage the live cells at cut surface and prevent union. I keep the rubbing alcohol for my tools
I have not had virus problems in apple trees, but it does occur. If you use scion wood from healthy trees there is unlikely to be a problem.
stephenhayesuk 2 years ago
@stephenhayesuk
Gotcha...thanks
agrotis79 2 years ago
muy BIEN STEPHEN , I DON NOT ESPEAK SPANISH BUT I UNDERSTEAN YOUR VIDEO, E LMUNDO OCUPA GETE COMO TU, GRACIAS, TLAJZOKAMAJTLI, MERCI ,TENKIU
FARK88 2 years ago
This is wonderful, thank you for letting me know. I shall be practicing all Spring. We want to propagate from an old tree onto a rootstock. These we can buy near to us but I just wanted to ask if we plant some new rootstocks in the Spring should we leave it a year before trying this method or do you think we could try this in the Summer and then in the following year cut the top leaving the chip to grow on? I would appreciate any advice, thanks.
andrewnorris1 2 years ago
You can gtake a chance on grafting next spring, as long as you make sure its a really good qiality well rooted stock and you are sure to water it well. Better results are usualy obtained grafting on to stocks which have had a season in the earth, but if you can buy several stocks, why not give it a go?
Alternatively, chip bud next July. Or try both.
stephenhayesuk 2 years ago
excellent video explained great.
keljay98 2 years ago
why should this be done on the 3rd week of july? would be the same allover the world? I'm in California would it still pertain?
wahidjon 2 years ago
good question wahidjon. As I have said on several occasions in my videos, I am talking about my conditions here in southern England. Your conditions may be different, obviously in Australia/New Zealand July is winter. You need to make the adjustment.
The operation of chip budding is done in late summer. This is important since (A) the wood to be budded in must be mature enough, and (B) there has to be enough of the growing season left to allow union to take place. For us, that's late July.
stephenhayesuk 2 years ago
Thank you!
You are one of the best "YouTubers" out there.
I have tried grafting after wathing your videos and I had a success-rate of aprox 50% I'm very satisfied with that for now but next year I'll try to do even better.
Lars,
Stockholm, Sweden
lnoc 2 years ago
Thank you so much for these videos. I tried 6 grafts this spring,after watching your excellent grafting demos.Only 1 of them took.....I didn't have any dormant twigs saved,but I tried it anyway....So I'm pleased that one's grown.Another week or so & I'll try this method. Most of this year's growth is still "downy" so perhaps I should wait till it matures a bit??? Everything is behind this year,throughout Canada.Thanks again,I'd been looking forward to a demo of this technique.
ggmorvaj 2 years ago
Thanks. Timing is relative, when I say late July/early August I refer to southern England. Look for strong, mature current year;s scion wood. you have a few weeks leeway either side. the wood needs to be a littel beyond the stage of being green and sappy. use hte most mature wood from the bottom of the leader.
stephenhayesuk 2 years ago
Thank you, Stephen....excellent. My only question: what is the best placement on the stock tree for this bud? Last year's growth? Or could it go anywhere?
toobmes 2 years ago
VERY GOOD QUESTION I should have thought of that.
Ordinarily you would chip bud to propagate a new tree of the chosen variety, so bud on to a 1 year old stock about 7-12 mm diameter, about 6-8 inches above ground level.
you can also chip bud into an existing tree if you want to bud in different varieties, for example to create a 'family' (multi-variety) apple tree ( I've done this) or add a pollinator branch to an otherwise infertile apple tree. 1cm diameter give or take is right
stephenhayesuk 2 years ago
Five Stars!!
MadBadVoodo 2 years ago
As always...Excellent instruction. Thank you Stephen.
DamonBKnox 2 years ago