hey Eric, i have a 98 integra gsr with a b18c1 and it is not getting any spark at all but the car will turn over every time what is my problem? ive already replaced the ignition coil but could it be the icm?
Hey Eric, you said if there is oil getting into your distributor, then it needs to be replaced. Well, I think there is quad ring (dist. seal) that sits inside the housing that needs changing. I am gonna change mine tomorrow as well as the oring that you have changed. I'll let you know if the leak stops. Thanks a lot for this video.
Thanks Eric this video was very, very helpfull to me. I have a 95 integrated Gsr and sometimes it wont start. And when it does it drives ok for a bit. When I turn it off and try to re start it doesn't and when it does it will run on 2 Cylinders only. My bro in law said it might be my igniter and coil that need to be replaced? What do you think...
1998 Nissan sentra I had to extract a broken screw from distributor cap I end up drilling a bigger hole LOng history short I put the cap back on now car is jerking the car was running fine I thought I had a bad spark plug wire I put new ones new cap new rotor still same problem I took distributor out clean it up still same problem any suggestion xanks
does the distributor have anything to do with idle? cause some shop said my idle issue (which im pretty sure was air in the cooling system thanks to your video) said it could be a distributor on its way out, or were they just tryin to rip me off with parts. thanks your vids kick ass
@elementality2431 Not exactly, in fact it's the last place that I would look. I don't think they were trying to rip you off they may not have known any better.
Hi Eric, I watch your videos and its really helpful. But I didn't find a video about TPS(Throttle Position Sensor). Can you please do a video on how to replace, adjust the TPS. Thankyou very much Eric. Keep those videos coming.
@riohondofeen If the noise is coming from the distributor then it should be replaced, I recommend an OE unit as I've seen many issues with aftermarket units.
I have a 91' Integra GS and my idle is either too low or oscillating. I was told to remove the idle screw and clean it and clean where it sits and take the IACV off and clean it too which I did and it worked for about 6 months...now the problem is back and trying those things again didn't work this time. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but it either idles too low or it oscillates, theres no precise spot that has it idling steady around 750-800. Has anyone encountered this?
@jefejefejefe NEVER ADJUST THE IDLE SCREW or mess with it in any way, it is set and calibrated at the factory and is the #1 cause of a low idle issue in my experience. Head over to my website and type in 'idle speech' into the search box and you will see what I recommend for that.
@hp11208 You need to make sure you get it lined up correctly so be sure to mark it's location when you remove it so that you can get it back into the correct position when you reinstall it. Good luck.
Eric I have a 94 integra ls and it doesn't want to start, but Everytime I try it makes a heavy clunk noise and it seems to use alot of power when it does it Everytime I try. Can you help me out man?
@francisconator Try turning the engine over by hand with a ratchet, if you can't turn the engine over by hand then you may have a broken engine that would need to be replaced or rebuilt.
I have a 92' integra ls, acts as if it is redlined at 3100 rpm. did a diagnostic on the check engine light, pretty sure it is a code 4. Crankshaft Position Sensor. thoughts?
@DFresh892001 That would indicate a problem inside the distributor, if it's aftermarket replace it with an OE unit and retime the engine and see if the condition still exists. Probably not a bad idea to also check the mechanical timing of the engine.
@TrOY - I fixed the car from jerking I took of the cap n behind the wheel that spins is another thing idk wats it called bt it was loose n hand no screws and one of the 4 wires were loose on it so I put it back n squeezed it with some pliers to stay on n put screws were der were missing n pit everything back now it dnt jerk back n forth .. Just my rpm is still fkd up let me noe if it helps
Eric i have a 1.3 Toyota Starlet Turbo - it's not revving much above 5500 and it sounds like its redlining at 5500, even though it used to go redline at 7000, Ive checked the spark plugs and it seems fine, it also judders when the engine is cold, and on a cold day, but other then that it runs fine
@latana151 I might check for an exhaust restriction, try removing the O2 sensor and taking it for a drive, if the problem goes away or gets better you might have a restricted exhaust.
Hey erick I have a problem with my 96 integra ls special. Wen I pass 2 1/2 rpm it jumps crazy all the way to 5 n 6 back n forth on all the gears. Also wen my car is cold n I drive it everytime the car passes 2 1/2 rmp it jerks back n forth like if it wants to die or loosing power wat could be the problem for both dis things please help!!
@fOREvERbAbY27 It's not common for Honda's to have fuel delivery problems with OE pumps so I might start by looking at the ignition system to see if you have any voltage leaks, I did a video on how to find these that might help you. If you don't find any then I would check the fuel pressure next.
@fOREvERbAbY27 my 93 accord recently started having the exact same symptoms as yours, ive already replaced the cap and rotor , im thinking it might possibly the exciter chip in the distributor? let me know if u solved the problem Thanks!
@EricTheCarGuy I have a 2002 Honda Accord 2.3L Engine and recently performed a engine swap. Two days back I got the Maint. Reqd. light blink before starting the car. I got the P1382 (Cylinder Position sensor no signal), the resistance in my distri. is around 987 Ohms. Anyhow I replaced it today and cleared the code and Still light is on. Please help me how to fix this.
@nivashraaja I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket distributors for Honda's but you may have an issue elsewhere with wiring or connections especially since you just changed the engine.
excellent video, I actually changed the O ring on my car, but I'm sure I overlooked the part with the key in the end being more on the top then the bottom to latch it on properly. but will double check tomorrow, the I will go ahead and do my ignition timingafter assembling everything. Im saving money and learning a lot.
@Mas7erChief117 I'm surprised it didn't come with one stock. I don't know what wire you need to tap into but you would be able to find that information in the service manual I suspect.
@EricTheCarGuy It was just a thought, everything worked out fine for you though so if it works, it doesn't matter how you did it. I just suggested it because I swapped internals from a B16 distributor into my B18a dizzy. BTW I'm glad I stumbled across your videos, good shit man, keep it up.
Wanted to ask you a question about my old honda. This is a 1994 Honda Accord auto DX basic car. I mean basic no power windows or locks for me. I am trying to find out what that tapping sound is good or bad. I am not sure if maybe it's the distributor or not. Just had timing belt & alternator belt replaced along with new water pump. Car has 120K miles on it. Any info would really help.
You should do a lot more on hondas and integra stuff. so i can learn more things from yah bud. And yes your Vids really do help and i fixed my idling and other stuff from your vids. So im glad i came across your vids and work. keep doing what you do and forget the haters. oh and another thing i tried to go in your site and it wont let me... but anyways. have fun makin new vids.
@ghostof1822 I have plenty of Honda stuff in my head so you will be seeing more of that in the future. Not sure what the issue is with the site as it seems to be working now, send me an email if your still having trouble.
@ryanbarbs13 You need to find out if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system. I did a video on Diagnosing a No Spark on a Honda but the principal will still apply to your application.
Second question: you have a video or two about Wells Manufacturing. AutoZone lists on their site that they do all the engineering/manufacturing for Duralast. Would you still go with Honda OE over the Duralast aftermarket (say for a distributor) even with your confidence in Wells?
Again, I'm just wondering. Not trying to be a jerk.
@gokblok Wells doesn't make an aftermarket distributor for Honda, I believe they make coils however. Let me put it this way, I haven't found an aftermarket distributor for a Honda yet that I haven't seen a problem with at some point hence the reason I suggest diagnosing a coil or igniter issue instead of swapping out the entire unit when there is a no spark condition, I consider that unprofessional and lazy.
@EricTheCarGuy And one of the reasons I love you is because of your diagnostics. I really only pulled up the distributor on AZ to look and see if it came with the igniter and coil, because I was wondering if this procedure outlined in the video would be something you need to do when you bought one, or if it came as an assembly. Just trying to soak up as many specifics as I can. Thanks for being you, man.
Got a question for ya man. And this may, at first, seem like I'm being a jerk, but I just noticed a couple of things. You're always talking about Honda OE parts, especially the ignition system parts, and how you really shouldn't use anything aftermarket. First question: you have red plug wires on your Integra. Are those aftermarket?
hey eric my car has been acting up like it lags around 3g to 4g rpm but then its fine some days i changed the rotor about 6 months ago and it was working fine until about a month ago i also have a check engine light on for a Cat inefficiency does that have anything with my car lagging and a couple days ago m dads friend moved the distributor timing and now it doesn't redline imlost i know it has something to due with timing
Eric i have a d16z6 civic.. the problem is that it stall on me.. Car starts no problem even if its hot outside.. Replace spark plug/fuel filter/wires/re build main relay... Haven replace distributor.. Anything i should be doing r looking out for..car runs great after it stall.. Its just the first time i use for the day.. I have notice that i get a misfire ones in while..
@egostick1 You might want to watch the video that I did on solving Honda Idle Issues for some suggestions on that. The first thing I would suggest is to look for vacuum leaks.
Hi Eric, I have a 2002 honda Accord (4 Cyl). I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires and Cap. The shaft in the distributor is not pointing to Cylinder #1. Do I have to rotate the crankshaft to get shaft in Distributor to point Cylinder #1 when Cyl #1 in TDC before starting the car? Please help me. Thanks
Hi Eric, I have a 2002 honda Accord. I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires and Cap. The shaft in the distributor is not pointing to Cylinder #1. Do I have to rotate the crankshaft to get shaft in Distributor to point Cylinder #1 when Cyl #1 in TDC before starting the car? Please help me. Thanks
@nivashraaja Not at all, the distributor gear is offset and should only go on one way, once it is installed correctly it should start up fine without being at TDC #1.
hey eric, great videos. I have a DA integra with b20b swap. Occasionally , i'd say 1/10 starts, my engine wont spark, juts hear cranking. I'd wait 1-2 minutes then it would work. I was thinking fuel pump or the coil in the distributor. what do you think? I tried to hear fuel pump during cranking but its hard to tell. any advice would help.
@christianbaclao I think you should figure out exactly what's missing, spark or fuel during the no start, once you have done that you can further diagnose the problem and fix it. BTW Honda fuel pumps hardly ever go bad so make sure that you have power and ground at the fuel pump connector before you condemn it.
My 2000 GS-R has those same red dust there too. I've seen it some time ago when I changed my cap. Everything worked fine until now my car isn't getting sparks to the plugs and I've watch your spark diagnostic video but in this one you said to just change the distributor it if you notice the red dust. If so then I will probably go ahead and change the whole thing. Good Idea?
ive got a 95 civic ex d16z6 vtec and everytime i start it after it rains or sits overnight it wont start. the only way itll start is if i let it sit a while in the on position or if i jump start the car. also i replaced the main relay, and im still having this issue what could cause this. ignition switch? any help would be greatly appreciated. please email me with a response. skatebrendan516@gmail.com
hey man. I have a 97 integra ls. 1.8. after it get up to operation temp and drive it for a while it sometimes dies on me. The motor bogges out. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. The replaced the ignition coil. it still dies. So im thinkin its the whole distributor. do you think that is what it could be?
@Civiceg10 Not the distributor. You need to start by finding out why it stalls, is it loosing spark or fuel. If it's loosing spark watch the video I did on diagnosing an ignition system to help you find the cause. I do not recommend replacing the distributor especially with an aftermarket unit.
eric i havea question for you? i have a 00 acura integra gsr and wen giving it gas i can see my throttle body open but my rpm isnt going anywhere...so basically it just sucking up alot of air and idles real low. and when i do put it into gear it give it gas it dies. any idea?
@luckster250 Hard to say really, start with any check engine lights and fix those first. To me it sounds like it could be out of time so check the mechanical timing of the engine (not ignition) to see if it's off, if it is fix it and see if that fixes it. Good luck.
My Prelude backfires (Through the intake side) and hesitates heavily under throttle. I tried checking EVERYTHING else, and ended up @ my distributor, which was dirty inside like yours...(no more gasket) everything seems OK though. So, I tried pulling a vacuum on my advance diaphragm; There's 2 vacuum ports on the Vac. Adv. So I tried blocking each 1 then pulling Vac. on the other, it didn't hold vacuum on either one, do you think that may be the problem? maybe the diaphragm is shot?
@nightmathzombieethan Sounds like an older prelude if it has a vacuum advance. You might want to go for a simpler diagnosis and due a tune up, you might also check the base timing to see if that's correct. If it's carbureted you might want to check for vacuum leaks at the base of the carburetors.
@EricTheCarGuy Yeah, it's an 86 SI (FI) and it has vacuum adv. and retard. I'm assuming it should have held vacuum, which it didn't. Looks like I'm replacing the distributor (It was filthy inside like the one in this vid)...crappy part Is I've gotta go the pick and pull route ($250 for a distributor on a 25 y/o Honda? wtf!?) but try as I might, I still can't find a distributor cap gasket being sold anywhere...
@nightmathzombieethan You can replace just the advance which is a lot less than the entire distributor but if your getting one from pick and pull you should be fine, I don't recommend aftermarket units for Hondas.
my car does not working properly idk why? maybe i must change the Distributor? cuz i have the same problem at the top of video! pls help! and my car is honda civic 1990
@shadowk33 Don't just change the distributor especially with an aftermarket unit as in my experience they are not the same quality as OE and sometimes actually cause more problems than they fix. Find the source of the problem and repair that rather than just throwing parts at it.
Hello Eric the Car Guy. I have found your videos quite informative, but I might have a tip for you after watching the Distributor video. That silly little seal on the inside of the distributor is indeed replaceable. Honda doesn't sell it, but the original manufacturer still makes it. I got mine online, don't remember exactly where at the moment, tore the distributor apart, replaced the seal, and no more oil leaking out of the inside of the dizzy! The seal was I think about $10!
@Tquick9 It's not the seal that is the problem it's the bushing, when the hard parts wear out like the shaft and bushing like in this video it's really not worth messing with in my opinion because you will need more than just the seal in most cases. However I DO NOT like aftermarket distributors, I'd rather put a junk Civic dizzy on my Acura than put on some aftermarket crap. Thanks for the comment.
@EricTheCarGuy My comment was more towards your remark that if you see oil inside the distributor, it needs to be replaced. I agree, when the bushing is done, it's time for a replacement, but if you just have oil on the inside, it can be saved. Mine was full of oil two years ago when I got it. The previous owner had actually left the lower screw on the dizzy cap undone so the oil would drip out. I replaced the seals, both inside and out, and it's worked fine for two years now.
@Tquick9 I'm not doubting your experience but as a professional technician you must realize that anything that can jeopardize a repair can cause a comeback so you do what you can to eliminate those by replacing parts rather than servicing them most times, both repairs work, one takes more time and effort and the other more money but the end result is the same.
btw..im having d same noise coming from the exhaust..do u noe what problem is that? it sounds like got metal pieces shaking inside the exhaust sys..hope u can help
@am2r If it's not the external heat shields then I would suspect the intermediate pipe after the cat, it's a double walled pipe that often breaks the welds internally. I usually hit the outside of the pipe with the ball end of a hammer to lock the inner pipe to keep it from rattling around.
car was making this noise took the cap off it had dust in it put it all back on while my car was down i figured it would be a good time to put my A/C belt back on once i did it stopped making the noise but the car is really under powered. Should i replace the distributor? its a 89 crx si
@redneck1994 I might try removing the AC belt to see if it's still underpowered, if it's not then the AC may have a problem. As for the distributor if it has dust in it like this one it should be replaced as that is an indication of a bad bushing, I recommend an OE over aftermarket however.
@EricTheCarGuy it seemed under powered when the distributor started to go out the a/c belt has been off for a while i just put it on sence the car has been parked
Hey EricTheCarGuy, i have a question. So when i start my car it kinda bogs a bit, and when i give it gas it wont go for a 1-2 seconds, then goes. then after about 30 seconds its fine. but i idle at about 1200 all the time, and its killing me on gas. It sounds horrible when i start it, but drives fine. I think its my distributor but unsure, im still learning. A friend told me it could be my fuel filter but i recently did a swap and kept the same distributor and have the same problem. Any ideas?
@LILQ1212 Without knowing the kind of car you are talking about makes thins tough but it's probably not your distributor or fuel filter, I would be looking to the idle circuit or for vacuum leaks as it sounds like the mixture is off. Good luck.
@EricTheCarGuy I have an Integra 95 with a 98 obd2 JDM b18b in it.. you think i have a vacuum leak then?? shall i check the distributor or with the facts i gave you, it is probably a vacuum leak?
my car was making this noise so i stopped driving it i started to do some maintenance that needed to be done i put the new A/C belt and idler pulley on and the distributor stopped making the noise should i still replace it?
@redneck1994 It would be nice to know what you are working on but don't read too much into coincidence, take the cap off and look to see if you have evidence of a failed distributor if you suspect one.
@redneck1994 If it has orange dust in it like this one did you probably need to replace it. You might want to check for debris or misalignment of the cap and rotor just for the heck of it as that could also be the problem. Good luck.
Whats up Eric? quick question. i was driving, just cruising not fast or anything and car just lost power...will not start at all. We checked the wires with a timing light to see if there was any spark but im not getting anything. by the way i have a 95 del sol VTEC 1.6L and I figured i had to replace the distributor, Am i correct? I'm no mechanic but i do know a lot of basic stuff about cars, just looking for some advice. thanks in advance
@gcboyallday DO NOT replace the distributor, you'll be worse off than when you started. Watch the video I did on Diagnosing a No Spark condition for how to handle that.
no i dont have an aftermarket distributor i have the stock ls obd1 integra distributor. oh when i push start my car some where in the gas tank my car makes a hummm sound. can it be that a relay (MFR) is going bad?
@EGR95 The noise you hear is probably the fuel pump and may be normal. As for the distributor the code you refer to is for a crank sensor I think and that is housed inside of the distributor, you might want to make sure the engine is in time mechanically before you go to replace it however, I recommend replacing it with an OE unit if you do.
@EricTheCarGuy hey i have the same car as u its a 91 integra... inorder for my car to run i have to gap the spark plugs down to like 23.. whens its recomended at 44.. could this be a bad ignition coil? it also sputtters under heavy acceleration?? thnx
hey what up i have a 95 civic with a crv engine ( with obd 1 harness ). i have cel code 8 and its tdc do i have to replace my distributor? or can i change the tdc sensor if possible? this is my second distributor.
So i have a 2000 Honda Prelude which i have been having a lot of problems with it Sputtering when it gets to the Vtec and I'm starting to think its the Distributor but i am not sure if it could be that or one of the other two which are the Coil and then Ignition control module. The distributor cap's posts are all fouled out and yes i have done my basic tune up, wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I was wondering if i cud help a guy out cuz im low on cash and cant afford it to take it to a shop.
@Kenia12100 I don't recommend replacing Honda distributors with aftermarket units as I've seen a lot of problems there. Check your ignition parts, make sure your using NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, if you have aftermarket wires make sure they are NGK, OE is better. If your cap terminals are fouled out you should replace it with a quality unit. Most VTEC problems are caused by low or incorrect oil. Lastly make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks as they will effect performance.
Hey man, was looking to buy a 99 integra ls from this guy, said the o2 sensor was going out.. brought my code checker and came out with P0420 - Probably the O2 and then a pair P1381 and P1382 which are about the CYP, ignition coils or even the PCM... What do you think?
hey Eric good shit! Got a question for ya I've got a 90 Ls b18 and I'm tryna maximize power! I've got all the basics intake headers exhaust.. Took out the ac/ p-steering and replaces the cat with a straight pipe..
@miguelismetro First, don't just replace parts, diagnose and repair. If you have a misfire watch the videos I've done on Power Balance Testing, Leak Down Testing, and Compression Testing to get you started. BTW if it's a Honda don't put a crap aftermarket distributor on it.
@markkjay I am a cheep bastard after all. In addition I don't think too much of the aftermarket distributors out there, I'll take a used Honda distributor that sorta fits over one of those any day.
@ericthecarguy I have a honda with a B16A2 and it loses power. It does not spit and sputter as if it is out of gas, it just shuts down and then it will kick back on. Could this be a bad ignition coil?
@EricTheCarGuy The problem is that I can be driving the car (2000 Si) and it loses power and then it comes back. Then after it does that a few times and I turn the car off, it is really hard to start. I can't figure it out. I watched the video you mentioned yesterday.
@toddsr84 Are you missing spark or fuel when it doesn't start? If it's both you might check the ignition switch by wiggling it while the engine is running, if it stalls replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.
@EricTheCarGuy my car wont start, i changed the cap. did the change distrub before that.. the car turns over just not start, can it be the distributor.. but dont you have to do timing when u change the change the distributor?
Also I used to have an ingition knock when under full throttle. It would knock more the higher u went. Replacing the ECT sensor stopped this. For some reason though, even though the distributor is new, it still makes a chattering sound when warming up. Similar to the sound in your video, but nowhere near as loud. And yes the bearing in the housing is still good.
does oil come out from the engine when you take off the dizzy? i have a leak and it's most likely a bad o-ring. so if i take off the dizzy will oil come ozzing out?
@EricTheCarGuy i'm just worried about having to retime the motor after i replace the o-ring, is there a way to replace the o-ring without having to retime the motor?
Hi Eric, I've just stumbled upon your videos( they are very good videos ) and I have recently subscribed. I seem to have a similar problem; one of the sensors in my distributor has gone bad( probably because it was an aftermarket distributor....installed by the previous owner ). Anyways, you said you used a civic distributor to replace yours, are there any other distributors that I can use?I've searched my local junk yards, but none of them have an integras with a intact distributor.
@hentaidrifter I tried the Civic distributor because I had one, I honestly don't know of any other that might work. Good luck and thanks for the sub and comment.
It cost me a lil over $300 but the way I look at it at least if I ever replace my engine block with another b18a/b I will have my near new distributor to go with it. And I have confidence I should last a long time just like the old one. Only reason I replaced the old one was it was leaking oil all over the insides. Also the coil looked pretty burned up from over the years.
I used your video to build me an all Honda parts distributor. Saved me almost 200 bux versus buying one put together. A crappy reman would of been almost the same price. When installing the ignition module I recommend applying a little bit of silver CPU paste between the metal side where it meets the heat sink. Will allow for better cooling and longer life of the module.
@paul06660 Good tip but to be honest dielectric grease would work just as well but for some reason they don't do that at the factory. I could not agree with you more about the aftermarket distributors that are out there, pure crap from what I've seen, I think your much better off with what you did.
Hi I have been watching for a couple months now. I was watching this video and around 5: min. I was saying "OH for Petes sake just buy a new distributor already. Why are you making a square peg fit in a round hole so to speak.After that I thoroughly enjoyed watching you swap out parts and make it all work. I then thought......Hmmmm thats what its all about. Great job. This is the video that made me subscibe to your channel. Keep it up.
@yeksun I'm not only cheep but I'm really not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Hondas as I haven't found a good one yet, I'd rather put a used Honda distributor that sorta fits than put in some of the aftermarket junk that I've seen out there. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Eric great video!. I have a Civic 97 Ex 1,6l (d16y8 I think). I have the check engine light on. Took it to honda and said I need a new distributor, the DTC is showing P1362 code, No signal in the TDC sensor, and what happends is that takes an extra time the engine to start. Honda recommends changing distributor. Do you know if it´s any other option? Can the distributor be fixed? I Am from Argentina, Honda needs to import the part, which will cost aprox 1200Usd + Honda fees. thanks!!
@crl09ful I wish I had one that I could send you. As far as I know there really is no repair and to be honest the aftermarket distributors I've seen aren't that good so I would recommend an OE unit.
@Envyus907 First, NEVER replace a Honda distributor unless it's leaking oil internally or filled with orange dust like this one, the aftermarket distributors that are out there are not as good as the original. Next, watch the video that I did on Diagnosing a No Spark as that will show you how to determine if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system.
im changing my distributor for an msd ditributor this weekend have you heard any probloms with this distributor at all by the way its a b18a1 in a 90 acura
@iVTECboosted Personally I don't like altering Honda ignition systems, I see more problems with them when they are altered than when they are left alone. I don't have a lot of experience with the MSD distributors for that engine but if it were me I would stick with stock and spend my money elsewhere. Just my opinion, nothing more, I feel I would need more practical experience with that brand to give an accurate assessment.
ok thanks alot for getting to me im not changing it to just change it im having probloms with the OEM one so i thot why not msd i have heard nothing but great things about msd so i just went ahead with it cause i got it for a steal but we will see what happens down the road im doing the install tomorrow so if anything happens with it i will be sure to let you know first hand so you know for future questions thanks alot for the video also
@iVTECboosted I'm not saying they are bad I just don't have a lot of experience with them. Let me know how yours works out. BTW what problems are you having with the one you have now?
well kinda hard to explain but when i accelarate my car it likes to bog between 1k-3k from both a dead stop and roll i've searched on this problom and everybody with my model car has had the problom and said replacing the distributor will stop this asap i guess its common with my car
@iVTECboosted They are wrong as that is not a distributor problem I've run into in over 14 years of working on Hondas. Your problem sounds timing related, make sure your engine is in time mechanically, i.e. the timing marks on the cam and crank, and make sure the ignition is properly timed after you check the mechanical, then recheck for a performance problem.
so i thought that 2 but my timing is fine the bog only happens off and on the distributor is now in and the car and has not bogged yet so i hope it stay like that thanks for all your help eric!
hi eric, i was wondering if you could help. I have just changed my distributor for my 95 integra B18B1. But no matter what I do, I could not set the proper timing (16BTDC). Then it hit me,..i did NOT mark the location of the original distributor.
I just installed the new one, making sure the pins line up on the cam shaft and distributor.
@ZaneAngelo There is a video posted to this one covering how to set the ignition timing after such a repair. Check it out and get back to me if you are still having trouble.
According to OBD code, my car start misfiring. However, I can still drive. Should I replace rotor and distributor cap just like this video? or Do I have to replace whole distributor?
@lkihappy Misfires can be caused by a number of things including and ignition system problem, you may want to watch the video I just posted on Leak Down Testing as that started out as a misfire code and I go through the steps of finding out the cause of the misfire. BTW I DO NOT recommend replacing a Honda distributor for an aftermarket unit as I have seen a lot of problems with this.
thanks great video i can only get a hold of the igniter with out the heat sync how do i get the old heat sync on the new igniter pry it off ? and how do i attach to the new one?
@rxgenocide Thats good cause believe it or not that heat sink is VERY expensive. You can remove the old heat sink just by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the igniter.
I need help. I had the same problem that you had but my car is not starting at all. I change the distributor but no luck. I posted a video. Could you please help me out. User: Permanentrecap Video name: Car not starting
@PermanentRecap You might want to check out the videos that I've done on Diagnosing a No Start, Checking Fuel Pressure, and Ignition System Diagnosis. That should get you started, let me know what you find.
Is there any difference between this and a GSR model? Please help
LookItsJazzy 3 weeks ago
i just installed a dizzy on my 92 gsr, and the cam snapped off the two pieces that stick off the coupling what did i do wrong?
ZombiePharoh 4 weeks ago
hey Eric, i have a 98 integra gsr with a b18c1 and it is not getting any spark at all but the car will turn over every time what is my problem? ive already replaced the ignition coil but could it be the icm?
mynamesjiimmy69 1 month ago
Hey Eric, you said if there is oil getting into your distributor, then it needs to be replaced. Well, I think there is quad ring (dist. seal) that sits inside the housing that needs changing. I am gonna change mine tomorrow as well as the oring that you have changed. I'll let you know if the leak stops. Thanks a lot for this video.
kingstonzincfence 1 month ago
Integra not integrated!
DeLaTorre27 1 month ago
Thanks Eric this video was very, very helpfull to me. I have a 95 integrated Gsr and sometimes it wont start. And when it does it drives ok for a bit. When I turn it off and try to re start it doesn't and when it does it will run on 2 Cylinders only. My bro in law said it might be my igniter and coil that need to be replaced? What do you think...
DeLaTorre27 1 month ago
1998 Nissan sentra I had to extract a broken screw from distributor cap I end up drilling a bigger hole LOng history short I put the cap back on now car is jerking the car was running fine I thought I had a bad spark plug wire I put new ones new cap new rotor still same problem I took distributor out clean it up still same problem any suggestion xanks
ricky2270 1 month ago
does the distributor have anything to do with idle? cause some shop said my idle issue (which im pretty sure was air in the cooling system thanks to your video) said it could be a distributor on its way out, or were they just tryin to rip me off with parts. thanks your vids kick ass
elementality2431 2 months ago
@elementality2431 Not exactly, in fact it's the last place that I would look. I don't think they were trying to rip you off they may not have known any better.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
Hi Eric, I watch your videos and its really helpful. But I didn't find a video about TPS(Throttle Position Sensor). Can you please do a video on how to replace, adjust the TPS. Thankyou very much Eric. Keep those videos coming.
fresno93703 2 months ago
@fresno93703 I hope to cover engine performance after I finish the electrical series.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
i have a 96 integra ls
riohondofeen 3 months ago
hey eric what if i have the same noise but no red dust?
riohondofeen 3 months ago
@riohondofeen If the noise is coming from the distributor then it should be replaced, I recommend an OE unit as I've seen many issues with aftermarket units.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
I have a 91' Integra GS and my idle is either too low or oscillating. I was told to remove the idle screw and clean it and clean where it sits and take the IACV off and clean it too which I did and it worked for about 6 months...now the problem is back and trying those things again didn't work this time. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but it either idles too low or it oscillates, theres no precise spot that has it idling steady around 750-800. Has anyone encountered this?
jefejefejefe 3 months ago
@jefejefejefe NEVER ADJUST THE IDLE SCREW or mess with it in any way, it is set and calibrated at the factory and is the #1 cause of a low idle issue in my experience. Head over to my website and type in 'idle speech' into the search box and you will see what I recommend for that.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
I have a 96teggy is the fire order the same as it is on your car?
flamingchedderpuff 3 months ago
@flamingchedderpuff Yes it is.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
98 vw golf gl distributor replace is it easy to do
hp11208 3 months ago
@hp11208 You need to make sure you get it lined up correctly so be sure to mark it's location when you remove it so that you can get it back into the correct position when you reinstall it. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
Eric I have a 94 integra ls and it doesn't want to start, but Everytime I try it makes a heavy clunk noise and it seems to use alot of power when it does it Everytime I try. Can you help me out man?
francisconator 4 months ago
@francisconator Try turning the engine over by hand with a ratchet, if you can't turn the engine over by hand then you may have a broken engine that would need to be replaced or rebuilt.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
I have a 92' integra ls, acts as if it is redlined at 3100 rpm. did a diagnostic on the check engine light, pretty sure it is a code 4. Crankshaft Position Sensor. thoughts?
DFresh892001 4 months ago
@DFresh892001 That would indicate a problem inside the distributor, if it's aftermarket replace it with an OE unit and retime the engine and see if the condition still exists. Probably not a bad idea to also check the mechanical timing of the engine.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
@TrOY - I fixed the car from jerking I took of the cap n behind the wheel that spins is another thing idk wats it called bt it was loose n hand no screws and one of the 4 wires were loose on it so I put it back n squeezed it with some pliers to stay on n put screws were der were missing n pit everything back now it dnt jerk back n forth .. Just my rpm is still fkd up let me noe if it helps
fOREvERbAbY27 4 months ago
Eric i have a 1.3 Toyota Starlet Turbo - it's not revving much above 5500 and it sounds like its redlining at 5500, even though it used to go redline at 7000, Ive checked the spark plugs and it seems fine, it also judders when the engine is cold, and on a cold day, but other then that it runs fine
What do you think i should check ?
latana151 4 months ago
@latana151 I might check for an exhaust restriction, try removing the O2 sensor and taking it for a drive, if the problem goes away or gets better you might have a restricted exhaust.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Hey erick I have a problem with my 96 integra ls special. Wen I pass 2 1/2 rpm it jumps crazy all the way to 5 n 6 back n forth on all the gears. Also wen my car is cold n I drive it everytime the car passes 2 1/2 rmp it jerks back n forth like if it wants to die or loosing power wat could be the problem for both dis things please help!!
fOREvERbAbY27 4 months ago
@fOREvERbAbY27 It's not common for Honda's to have fuel delivery problems with OE pumps so I might start by looking at the ignition system to see if you have any voltage leaks, I did a video on how to find these that might help you. If you don't find any then I would check the fuel pressure next.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
@fOREvERbAbY27 my 93 accord recently started having the exact same symptoms as yours, ive already replaced the cap and rotor , im thinking it might possibly the exciter chip in the distributor? let me know if u solved the problem Thanks!
TroyBoy4201 4 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy I have a 2002 Honda Accord 2.3L Engine and recently performed a engine swap. Two days back I got the Maint. Reqd. light blink before starting the car. I got the P1382 (Cylinder Position sensor no signal), the resistance in my distri. is around 987 Ohms. Anyhow I replaced it today and cleared the code and Still light is on. Please help me how to fix this.
nivashraaja 4 months ago
@nivashraaja I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket distributors for Honda's but you may have an issue elsewhere with wiring or connections especially since you just changed the engine.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
excellent video, I actually changed the O ring on my car, but I'm sure I overlooked the part with the key in the end being more on the top then the bottom to latch it on properly. but will double check tomorrow, the I will go ahead and do my ignition timingafter assembling everything. Im saving money and learning a lot.
Thanks man.
74bluewolf 4 months ago
@74bluewolf I'm glad the video was able to help you. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Me again, I'm looking to maybe put a tachometer in my 1996 Honda odyssey, have u any ideas which wire off the distributer it would be?
Mas7erChief117 4 months ago
@Mas7erChief117 I'm surprised it didn't come with one stock. I don't know what wire you need to tap into but you would be able to find that information in the service manual I suspect.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Probably could have just swapped the internals of the dizzys, instead of using the one that only one bolt hole lines up...
Ken81590 4 months ago
@Ken81590 Not really, too much work and you run the risk of damaging things. More than a year later it's working fine with no leaks.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy It was just a thought, everything worked out fine for you though so if it works, it doesn't matter how you did it. I just suggested it because I swapped internals from a B16 distributor into my B18a dizzy. BTW I'm glad I stumbled across your videos, good shit man, keep it up.
Ken81590 4 months ago
Damn. Pretty impressive. Thanks for the video.
TeeAreify 5 months ago
@TeeAreify Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Wanted to ask you a question about my old honda. This is a 1994 Honda Accord auto DX basic car. I mean basic no power windows or locks for me. I am trying to find out what that tapping sound is good or bad. I am not sure if maybe it's the distributor or not. Just had timing belt & alternator belt replaced along with new water pump. Car has 120K miles on it. Any info would really help.
therealfreddyp 5 months ago
@therealfreddyp I think I responded to your video earlier today, if that's not the case let me know.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
You should do a lot more on hondas and integra stuff. so i can learn more things from yah bud. And yes your Vids really do help and i fixed my idling and other stuff from your vids. So im glad i came across your vids and work. keep doing what you do and forget the haters. oh and another thing i tried to go in your site and it wont let me... but anyways. have fun makin new vids.
ghostof1822 5 months ago
@ghostof1822 I have plenty of Honda stuff in my head so you will be seeing more of that in the future. Not sure what the issue is with the site as it seems to be working now, send me an email if your still having trouble.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
ive got a rover 400 and it has no spark, it has new plugs do u think it could be the distributor or something else
cheers
ryanbarbs13 5 months ago
@ryanbarbs13 You need to find out if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system. I did a video on Diagnosing a No Spark on a Honda but the principal will still apply to your application.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Among other things too haha.
jamisgood21 5 months ago
Cool..learn something with every video i watch of yours. Never new about the tach signal coming from the ignitor like that.
jamisgood21 5 months ago
@jamisgood21 I'm happy to give useful information, it's my purpose in life. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Second question: you have a video or two about Wells Manufacturing. AutoZone lists on their site that they do all the engineering/manufacturing for Duralast. Would you still go with Honda OE over the Duralast aftermarket (say for a distributor) even with your confidence in Wells?
Again, I'm just wondering. Not trying to be a jerk.
Stay awesome.
gokblok 6 months ago
@gokblok Wells doesn't make an aftermarket distributor for Honda, I believe they make coils however. Let me put it this way, I haven't found an aftermarket distributor for a Honda yet that I haven't seen a problem with at some point hence the reason I suggest diagnosing a coil or igniter issue instead of swapping out the entire unit when there is a no spark condition, I consider that unprofessional and lazy.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy And one of the reasons I love you is because of your diagnostics. I really only pulled up the distributor on AZ to look and see if it came with the igniter and coil, because I was wondering if this procedure outlined in the video would be something you need to do when you bought one, or if it came as an assembly. Just trying to soak up as many specifics as I can. Thanks for being you, man.
- Adam
gokblok 6 months ago
@gokblok Anytime. Good luck and thanks for your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
Hey Eric . . .
Got a question for ya man. And this may, at first, seem like I'm being a jerk, but I just noticed a couple of things. You're always talking about Honda OE parts, especially the ignition system parts, and how you really shouldn't use anything aftermarket. First question: you have red plug wires on your Integra. Are those aftermarket?
gokblok 6 months ago
@gokblok The red wires are OE actually.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy So where does one get AWESOME red OE wires? :D
gokblok 6 months ago
hey eric my car has been acting up like it lags around 3g to 4g rpm but then its fine some days i changed the rotor about 6 months ago and it was working fine until about a month ago i also have a check engine light on for a Cat inefficiency does that have anything with my car lagging and a couple days ago m dads friend moved the distributor timing and now it doesn't redline imlost i know it has something to due with timing
WarpedNut 6 months ago
@WarpedNut If the cat is clogged causing an exhaust restriction it could most defiantly cause a performance issue.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Eric i have a d16z6 civic.. the problem is that it stall on me.. Car starts no problem even if its hot outside.. Replace spark plug/fuel filter/wires/re build main relay... Haven replace distributor.. Anything i should be doing r looking out for..car runs great after it stall.. Its just the first time i use for the day.. I have notice that i get a misfire ones in while..
egostick1 6 months ago
@egostick1 You might want to watch the video that I did on solving Honda Idle Issues for some suggestions on that. The first thing I would suggest is to look for vacuum leaks.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hi Eric, I have a 2002 honda Accord (4 Cyl). I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires and Cap. The shaft in the distributor is not pointing to Cylinder #1. Do I have to rotate the crankshaft to get shaft in Distributor to point Cylinder #1 when Cyl #1 in TDC before starting the car? Please help me. Thanks
nivashraaja 6 months ago
Hi Eric, I have a 2002 honda Accord. I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires and Cap. The shaft in the distributor is not pointing to Cylinder #1. Do I have to rotate the crankshaft to get shaft in Distributor to point Cylinder #1 when Cyl #1 in TDC before starting the car? Please help me. Thanks
nivashraaja 6 months ago
@nivashraaja Not at all, the distributor gear is offset and should only go on one way, once it is installed correctly it should start up fine without being at TDC #1.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
hey eric, great videos. I have a DA integra with b20b swap. Occasionally , i'd say 1/10 starts, my engine wont spark, juts hear cranking. I'd wait 1-2 minutes then it would work. I was thinking fuel pump or the coil in the distributor. what do you think? I tried to hear fuel pump during cranking but its hard to tell. any advice would help.
christianbaclao 6 months ago
@christianbaclao I think you should figure out exactly what's missing, spark or fuel during the no start, once you have done that you can further diagnose the problem and fix it. BTW Honda fuel pumps hardly ever go bad so make sure that you have power and ground at the fuel pump connector before you condemn it.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy how do i test if its no spark or fuel?
christianbaclao 6 months ago
My 2000 GS-R has those same red dust there too. I've seen it some time ago when I changed my cap. Everything worked fine until now my car isn't getting sparks to the plugs and I've watch your spark diagnostic video but in this one you said to just change the distributor it if you notice the red dust. If so then I will probably go ahead and change the whole thing. Good Idea?
leejinxyooji 6 months ago
@leejinxyooji Yes but I DO NOT recommend you use an aftermarket unit, your actually better off with a used OE.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
ive got a 95 civic ex d16z6 vtec and everytime i start it after it rains or sits overnight it wont start. the only way itll start is if i let it sit a while in the on position or if i jump start the car. also i replaced the main relay, and im still having this issue what could cause this. ignition switch? any help would be greatly appreciated. please email me with a response. skatebrendan516@gmail.com
skaterbrendan516 7 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@skaterbrendan516 - correction email is skaterbrendan516@gmail.com
skaterbrendan516 7 months ago
Destributor from the engine is DOHC...
The one you tried to mount is from SOHC engines.
Both of them has the Cam Position Sensor, the new ones (arround 92 to 00) DOHC engines have the Cam Position Sensor on the other Cam =)
Correct me if i'm wrong.
I swap'd my Civic MB1 engine from D16Y2 to D16A9 and I had the same problem... I had to buy a DoHC distributor. :P
nunorpedro 7 months ago
@nunorpedro I didn't, this one worked just fine.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
hey man. I have a 97 integra ls. 1.8. after it get up to operation temp and drive it for a while it sometimes dies on me. The motor bogges out. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. The replaced the ignition coil. it still dies. So im thinkin its the whole distributor. do you think that is what it could be?
Civiceg10 7 months ago
@Civiceg10 Not the distributor. You need to start by finding out why it stalls, is it loosing spark or fuel. If it's loosing spark watch the video I did on diagnosing an ignition system to help you find the cause. I do not recommend replacing the distributor especially with an aftermarket unit.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
"There was a notch there and now there isn't you figure it out." hahah classic Eric :-)
gav52l 7 months ago
eric i havea question for you? i have a 00 acura integra gsr and wen giving it gas i can see my throttle body open but my rpm isnt going anywhere...so basically it just sucking up alot of air and idles real low. and when i do put it into gear it give it gas it dies. any idea?
luckster250 7 months ago
@luckster250 Hard to say really, start with any check engine lights and fix those first. To me it sounds like it could be out of time so check the mechanical timing of the engine (not ignition) to see if it's off, if it is fix it and see if that fixes it. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
My Prelude backfires (Through the intake side) and hesitates heavily under throttle. I tried checking EVERYTHING else, and ended up @ my distributor, which was dirty inside like yours...(no more gasket) everything seems OK though. So, I tried pulling a vacuum on my advance diaphragm; There's 2 vacuum ports on the Vac. Adv. So I tried blocking each 1 then pulling Vac. on the other, it didn't hold vacuum on either one, do you think that may be the problem? maybe the diaphragm is shot?
nightmathzombieethan 7 months ago
@nightmathzombieethan Sounds like an older prelude if it has a vacuum advance. You might want to go for a simpler diagnosis and due a tune up, you might also check the base timing to see if that's correct. If it's carbureted you might want to check for vacuum leaks at the base of the carburetors.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Yeah, it's an 86 SI (FI) and it has vacuum adv. and retard. I'm assuming it should have held vacuum, which it didn't. Looks like I'm replacing the distributor (It was filthy inside like the one in this vid)...crappy part Is I've gotta go the pick and pull route ($250 for a distributor on a 25 y/o Honda? wtf!?) but try as I might, I still can't find a distributor cap gasket being sold anywhere...
nightmathzombieethan 7 months ago
@nightmathzombieethan You can replace just the advance which is a lot less than the entire distributor but if your getting one from pick and pull you should be fine, I don't recommend aftermarket units for Hondas.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
my car does not working properly idk why? maybe i must change the Distributor? cuz i have the same problem at the top of video! pls help! and my car is honda civic 1990
shadowk33 7 months ago
@shadowk33 Don't just change the distributor especially with an aftermarket unit as in my experience they are not the same quality as OE and sometimes actually cause more problems than they fix. Find the source of the problem and repair that rather than just throwing parts at it.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy haha dude i changed the distributor and now my car works realy good!! :) but thanx for that
shadowk33 7 months ago
Hello Eric the Car Guy. I have found your videos quite informative, but I might have a tip for you after watching the Distributor video. That silly little seal on the inside of the distributor is indeed replaceable. Honda doesn't sell it, but the original manufacturer still makes it. I got mine online, don't remember exactly where at the moment, tore the distributor apart, replaced the seal, and no more oil leaking out of the inside of the dizzy! The seal was I think about $10!
Tquick9 7 months ago
@Tquick9 It's not the seal that is the problem it's the bushing, when the hard parts wear out like the shaft and bushing like in this video it's really not worth messing with in my opinion because you will need more than just the seal in most cases. However I DO NOT like aftermarket distributors, I'd rather put a junk Civic dizzy on my Acura than put on some aftermarket crap. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy My comment was more towards your remark that if you see oil inside the distributor, it needs to be replaced. I agree, when the bushing is done, it's time for a replacement, but if you just have oil on the inside, it can be saved. Mine was full of oil two years ago when I got it. The previous owner had actually left the lower screw on the dizzy cap undone so the oil would drip out. I replaced the seals, both inside and out, and it's worked fine for two years now.
Tquick9 7 months ago
@Tquick9 I'm not doubting your experience but as a professional technician you must realize that anything that can jeopardize a repair can cause a comeback so you do what you can to eliminate those by replacing parts rather than servicing them most times, both repairs work, one takes more time and effort and the other more money but the end result is the same.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
problem fixed! haha..thanks to u eric.. =)
btw..im having d same noise coming from the exhaust..do u noe what problem is that? it sounds like got metal pieces shaking inside the exhaust sys..hope u can help
am2r 8 months ago
@am2r If it's not the external heat shields then I would suspect the intermediate pipe after the cat, it's a double walled pipe that often breaks the welds internally. I usually hit the outside of the pipe with the ball end of a hammer to lock the inner pipe to keep it from rattling around.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
car was making this noise took the cap off it had dust in it put it all back on while my car was down i figured it would be a good time to put my A/C belt back on once i did it stopped making the noise but the car is really under powered. Should i replace the distributor? its a 89 crx si
redneck1994 8 months ago
@redneck1994 I might try removing the AC belt to see if it's still underpowered, if it's not then the AC may have a problem. As for the distributor if it has dust in it like this one it should be replaced as that is an indication of a bad bushing, I recommend an OE over aftermarket however.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy it seemed under powered when the distributor started to go out the a/c belt has been off for a while i just put it on sence the car has been parked
redneck1994 8 months ago
Hey EricTheCarGuy, i have a question. So when i start my car it kinda bogs a bit, and when i give it gas it wont go for a 1-2 seconds, then goes. then after about 30 seconds its fine. but i idle at about 1200 all the time, and its killing me on gas. It sounds horrible when i start it, but drives fine. I think its my distributor but unsure, im still learning. A friend told me it could be my fuel filter but i recently did a swap and kept the same distributor and have the same problem. Any ideas?
LILQ1212 8 months ago
@LILQ1212 Without knowing the kind of car you are talking about makes thins tough but it's probably not your distributor or fuel filter, I would be looking to the idle circuit or for vacuum leaks as it sounds like the mixture is off. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy I have an Integra 95 with a 98 obd2 JDM b18b in it.. you think i have a vacuum leak then?? shall i check the distributor or with the facts i gave you, it is probably a vacuum leak?
LILQ1212 8 months ago
my car was making this noise so i stopped driving it i started to do some maintenance that needed to be done i put the new A/C belt and idler pulley on and the distributor stopped making the noise should i still replace it?
redneck1994 8 months ago
@redneck1994 It would be nice to know what you are working on but don't read too much into coincidence, take the cap off and look to see if you have evidence of a failed distributor if you suspect one.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy its a 1989 crx si. htere was the redish orange dust in it so i just replaced it
redneck1994 8 months ago
theres a loud grinding noise coming from under the distributor cap i looked at the rotor and it looked fine any ideas??
redneck1994 8 months ago
@redneck1994 If it has orange dust in it like this one did you probably need to replace it. You might want to check for debris or misalignment of the cap and rotor just for the heck of it as that could also be the problem. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
Whats up Eric? quick question. i was driving, just cruising not fast or anything and car just lost power...will not start at all. We checked the wires with a timing light to see if there was any spark but im not getting anything. by the way i have a 95 del sol VTEC 1.6L and I figured i had to replace the distributor, Am i correct? I'm no mechanic but i do know a lot of basic stuff about cars, just looking for some advice. thanks in advance
gcboyallday 9 months ago
@gcboyallday DO NOT replace the distributor, you'll be worse off than when you started. Watch the video I did on Diagnosing a No Spark condition for how to handle that.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
no i dont have an aftermarket distributor i have the stock ls obd1 integra distributor. oh when i push start my car some where in the gas tank my car makes a hummm sound. can it be that a relay (MFR) is going bad?
EGR95 9 months ago
@EGR95 The noise you hear is probably the fuel pump and may be normal. As for the distributor the code you refer to is for a crank sensor I think and that is housed inside of the distributor, you might want to make sure the engine is in time mechanically before you go to replace it however, I recommend replacing it with an OE unit if you do.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy hey i have the same car as u its a 91 integra... inorder for my car to run i have to gap the spark plugs down to like 23.. whens its recomended at 44.. could this be a bad ignition coil? it also sputtters under heavy acceleration?? thnx
kennethkitchens 8 months ago
@kennethkitchens I would say they are the wrong plugs, NGK or Nippon Denso only.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
hey what up i have a 95 civic with a crv engine ( with obd 1 harness ). i have cel code 8 and its tdc do i have to replace my distributor? or can i change the tdc sensor if possible? this is my second distributor.
EGR95 9 months ago
@EGR95 If you have an aftermarket distributor on there replace it with an OE unit, the aftermarket ones throw code 8's and 9's all the time.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Great video, especially the indepth parts with changing the ignitor and coil!
Red88Rex 9 months ago
@Red88Rex Probably the most important part in my opinion. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Supp Eric,a 94 dodge stealth the cap/rotor is it easy to change.
hp11208 9 months ago
@hp11208 Not sure if I'm honest.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
So i have a 2000 Honda Prelude which i have been having a lot of problems with it Sputtering when it gets to the Vtec and I'm starting to think its the Distributor but i am not sure if it could be that or one of the other two which are the Coil and then Ignition control module. The distributor cap's posts are all fouled out and yes i have done my basic tune up, wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I was wondering if i cud help a guy out cuz im low on cash and cant afford it to take it to a shop.
Kenia12100 9 months ago
@Kenia12100 I don't recommend replacing Honda distributors with aftermarket units as I've seen a lot of problems there. Check your ignition parts, make sure your using NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, if you have aftermarket wires make sure they are NGK, OE is better. If your cap terminals are fouled out you should replace it with a quality unit. Most VTEC problems are caused by low or incorrect oil. Lastly make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks as they will effect performance.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Hey man, was looking to buy a 99 integra ls from this guy, said the o2 sensor was going out.. brought my code checker and came out with P0420 - Probably the O2 and then a pair P1381 and P1382 which are about the CYP, ignition coils or even the PCM... What do you think?
liltex 9 months ago
@liltex P0420 is a cat code, the other codes are most likely the result of an aftermarket distributor, I don't recommend those BTW.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
hey Eric good shit! Got a question for ya I've got a 90 Ls b18 and I'm tryna maximize power! I've got all the basics intake headers exhaust.. Took out the ac/ p-steering and replaces the cat with a straight pipe..
JDub619 10 months ago
@JDub619 Turbocharge, supercharge, or nitrous, in other words spend money. It's all good, you only live once really.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
i think my fuel injections don't work but i think it might be my distributor as well. help
miguelismetro 10 months ago
@miguelismetro First, don't just replace parts, diagnose and repair. If you have a misfire watch the videos I've done on Power Balance Testing, Leak Down Testing, and Compression Testing to get you started. BTW if it's a Honda don't put a crap aftermarket distributor on it.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
That's pretty sick how you kinda converted that distributor to fix.
markkjay 10 months ago
@markkjay I am a cheep bastard after all. In addition I don't think too much of the aftermarket distributors out there, I'll take a used Honda distributor that sorta fits over one of those any day.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
@ericthecarguy I have a honda with a B16A2 and it loses power. It does not spit and sputter as if it is out of gas, it just shuts down and then it will kick back on. Could this be a bad ignition coil?
toddsr84 10 months ago
@toddsr84 Check to see if you have spark first, if you do it's not the coil, if you don't watch the video I did on Ignition system Diagnosis.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy The problem is that I can be driving the car (2000 Si) and it loses power and then it comes back. Then after it does that a few times and I turn the car off, it is really hard to start. I can't figure it out. I watched the video you mentioned yesterday.
toddsr84 10 months ago
@toddsr84 Are you missing spark or fuel when it doesn't start? If it's both you might check the ignition switch by wiggling it while the engine is running, if it stalls replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy my car wont start, i changed the cap. did the change distrub before that.. the car turns over just not start, can it be the distributor.. but dont you have to do timing when u change the change the distributor?
Akuza01 10 months ago
Also I used to have an ingition knock when under full throttle. It would knock more the higher u went. Replacing the ECT sensor stopped this. For some reason though, even though the distributor is new, it still makes a chattering sound when warming up. Similar to the sound in your video, but nowhere near as loud. And yes the bearing in the housing is still good.
paul06660 10 months ago
@paul06660 If it's an aftermarket distributor it's typical really, I haven't found an aftermarket Honda distributor yet that was worth a darn.
EricTheCarGuy 10 months ago
does oil come out from the engine when you take off the dizzy? i have a leak and it's most likely a bad o-ring. so if i take off the dizzy will oil come ozzing out?
tapemasteriscool 11 months ago
@tapemasteriscool A small amount yes but you can place a rag under it when you remove it and that should be more than enough to catch it.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy i'm just worried about having to retime the motor after i replace the o-ring, is there a way to replace the o-ring without having to retime the motor?
tapemasteriscool 11 months ago
Hi Eric, I've just stumbled upon your videos( they are very good videos ) and I have recently subscribed. I seem to have a similar problem; one of the sensors in my distributor has gone bad( probably because it was an aftermarket distributor....installed by the previous owner ). Anyways, you said you used a civic distributor to replace yours, are there any other distributors that I can use?I've searched my local junk yards, but none of them have an integras with a intact distributor.
hentaidrifter 11 months ago
@hentaidrifter I tried the Civic distributor because I had one, I honestly don't know of any other that might work. Good luck and thanks for the sub and comment.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
It cost me a lil over $300 but the way I look at it at least if I ever replace my engine block with another b18a/b I will have my near new distributor to go with it. And I have confidence I should last a long time just like the old one. Only reason I replaced the old one was it was leaking oil all over the insides. Also the coil looked pretty burned up from over the years.
paul06660 11 months ago
I used your video to build me an all Honda parts distributor. Saved me almost 200 bux versus buying one put together. A crappy reman would of been almost the same price. When installing the ignition module I recommend applying a little bit of silver CPU paste between the metal side where it meets the heat sink. Will allow for better cooling and longer life of the module.
paul06660 11 months ago
@paul06660 Good tip but to be honest dielectric grease would work just as well but for some reason they don't do that at the factory. I could not agree with you more about the aftermarket distributors that are out there, pure crap from what I've seen, I think your much better off with what you did.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
Hi I have been watching for a couple months now. I was watching this video and around 5: min. I was saying "OH for Petes sake just buy a new distributor already. Why are you making a square peg fit in a round hole so to speak.After that I thoroughly enjoyed watching you swap out parts and make it all work. I then thought......Hmmmm thats what its all about. Great job. This is the video that made me subscibe to your channel. Keep it up.
yeksun 1 year ago
@yeksun I'm not only cheep but I'm really not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Hondas as I haven't found a good one yet, I'd rather put a used Honda distributor that sorta fits than put in some of the aftermarket junk that I've seen out there. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric. i just did this the other day for my teg. the allen size is a 3mm for the rotor.
kartguy3 1 year ago
@kartguy3 Cool thanks for the heads up and the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy anytime eric. keep up the good work
kartguy3 1 year ago
Hi Eric great video!. I have a Civic 97 Ex 1,6l (d16y8 I think). I have the check engine light on. Took it to honda and said I need a new distributor, the DTC is showing P1362 code, No signal in the TDC sensor, and what happends is that takes an extra time the engine to start. Honda recommends changing distributor. Do you know if it´s any other option? Can the distributor be fixed? I Am from Argentina, Honda needs to import the part, which will cost aprox 1200Usd + Honda fees. thanks!!
crl09ful 1 year ago
@crl09ful I wish I had one that I could send you. As far as I know there really is no repair and to be honest the aftermarket distributors I've seen aren't that good so I would recommend an OE unit.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
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Envyus907 1 year ago
@Envyus907 First, NEVER replace a Honda distributor unless it's leaking oil internally or filled with orange dust like this one, the aftermarket distributors that are out there are not as good as the original. Next, watch the video that I did on Diagnosing a No Spark as that will show you how to determine if the problem is in the primary or secondary side of the ignition system.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
im changing my distributor for an msd ditributor this weekend have you heard any probloms with this distributor at all by the way its a b18a1 in a 90 acura
iVTECboosted 1 year ago
@iVTECboosted Personally I don't like altering Honda ignition systems, I see more problems with them when they are altered than when they are left alone. I don't have a lot of experience with the MSD distributors for that engine but if it were me I would stick with stock and spend my money elsewhere. Just my opinion, nothing more, I feel I would need more practical experience with that brand to give an accurate assessment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy
ok thanks alot for getting to me im not changing it to just change it im having probloms with the OEM one so i thot why not msd i have heard nothing but great things about msd so i just went ahead with it cause i got it for a steal but we will see what happens down the road im doing the install tomorrow so if anything happens with it i will be sure to let you know first hand so you know for future questions thanks alot for the video also
iVTECboosted 1 year ago
@iVTECboosted I'm not saying they are bad I just don't have a lot of experience with them. Let me know how yours works out. BTW what problems are you having with the one you have now?
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy
well kinda hard to explain but when i accelarate my car it likes to bog between 1k-3k from both a dead stop and roll i've searched on this problom and everybody with my model car has had the problom and said replacing the distributor will stop this asap i guess its common with my car
iVTECboosted 1 year ago
@iVTECboosted They are wrong as that is not a distributor problem I've run into in over 14 years of working on Hondas. Your problem sounds timing related, make sure your engine is in time mechanically, i.e. the timing marks on the cam and crank, and make sure the ignition is properly timed after you check the mechanical, then recheck for a performance problem.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy
so i thought that 2 but my timing is fine the bog only happens off and on the distributor is now in and the car and has not bogged yet so i hope it stay like that thanks for all your help eric!
iVTECboosted 1 year ago
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iVTECboosted 1 year ago
hi eric, i was wondering if you could help. I have just changed my distributor for my 95 integra B18B1. But no matter what I do, I could not set the proper timing (16BTDC). Then it hit me,..i did NOT mark the location of the original distributor.
I just installed the new one, making sure the pins line up on the cam shaft and distributor.
ZaneAngelo 1 year ago
@ZaneAngelo There is a video posted to this one covering how to set the ignition timing after such a repair. Check it out and get back to me if you are still having trouble.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
According to OBD code, my car start misfiring. However, I can still drive. Should I replace rotor and distributor cap just like this video? or Do I have to replace whole distributor?
lkihappy 1 year ago
@lkihappy Misfires can be caused by a number of things including and ignition system problem, you may want to watch the video I just posted on Leak Down Testing as that started out as a misfire code and I go through the steps of finding out the cause of the misfire. BTW I DO NOT recommend replacing a Honda distributor for an aftermarket unit as I have seen a lot of problems with this.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
thanks great video i can only get a hold of the igniter with out the heat sync how do i get the old heat sync on the new igniter pry it off ? and how do i attach to the new one?
rxgenocide 1 year ago
@rxgenocide Thats good cause believe it or not that heat sink is VERY expensive. You can remove the old heat sink just by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the igniter.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I need help. I had the same problem that you had but my car is not starting at all. I change the distributor but no luck. I posted a video. Could you please help me out. User: Permanentrecap Video name: Car not starting
PermanentRecap 1 year ago
@PermanentRecap You might want to check out the videos that I've done on Diagnosing a No Start, Checking Fuel Pressure, and Ignition System Diagnosis. That should get you started, let me know what you find.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I need help. I had the same problem that you had but my car is not starting at all.
PermanentRecap 1 year ago
I have a question.
The distributor in my '93 Dodge Spirit is going bad. It makes a terrible sound (like yours did), and it runs atrociously.
So I want to replace it with something good. So if I get a "Chevy V6 distributor" from MSD, would it work? Or is it more complicated then that...?
It's been so long since I've done anything with distributors...
Thanks.
LauxHawk 1 year ago