Added: 2 years ago
From: ManClubAustin
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  • CMAX pads are Awesome.  And super quiet.

  • WHAT LUBE DO YOU USE ON THE SPRINGS?

  • why you change that after only 4100 miles

  • @carljacob16

    Cuz the OEM rear pads suck.

  • must you blast that gay ass music!!

  • @luke631

    must you use an exclamation point when asking a question!!!! I considered some Shadow of a Cloud minimalist yawnfest music, but fell asleep before I could click the mouse.

  • ManClubAustin: You da man ! Thanks for the reply. Getting a 17 mm held the slider pin steady. Now, I am totally [broke] as in brakes on both wheels (actually, I changed the front pads last week). The Lord used you to help this fella. Thanks, again !

  • @vconnection

    No problem...I'm glad you got it! Be sure to check out the other videos I did on lubing the slider pin, and how to change the brake fluid.

    Thanks for watching, and as always....keep 'em hangin'!

  • @vconnection did you bleed the brakes after you change the pads?

  • @dencurlene

    No, I didn't open the lines. If you're over 30k and/or 3 years, then I would do a full brake fluid flush.

  • I changed one side of the rear brakes, today (2 years later !), but I could not get the upper bolt out (bottom one, no problem): the top bolt kept turning but not backing out tho' I was using a 12mm racket fitting. I hope my last brake-changer did not strip it ! Hey, that crow bar worked in aligning the caliper !...a $11.00 saver. Please, tell me how to get that ever-turning top bolt out. Would a wrench (12mm) make a diffrence ? I don't have one.

  • @vconnection

    Are you using a 17MM wrench to steady the slider pin? If not the entire slider pin assembly might be turning.

  • thanks for this post

  • did you turn the rotors?

  • @tbursee

    Nah, they only had 4500 miles on them. I will have to replace them next time because the ceramic pads will chew 'em up.

  • Great video. Curious though that you said it only took 30 minutes to replace pads but @ mark 4:28 on the video it went from bright daylight to night with you using an electrical light (as seen by the yellow power cord).. Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to purchase a floor jack..

  • @alainp1020

    This question has been asked before...here's my response: "good eye - I realized when I was editing the video that some of the shots weren't clear. So instead of posting an incomplete video, I went back out side in the evening and reshot the sequences of lubing and screw caliper piston alignment to make them more clear to the viewers."

  • Do we need to change the brakes each 20K on the Honda Accord 09? or is it once done ? I have no clue about cars but I already changed my brakes on the 20 K

  • @Veetina

    Honda has released a "new" brake pad with V-springs that supposedly will last longer than 20k. Will it actually happen? Time will tell. But due to the weight of our Accords, the brake distribution that uses the rear brakes more when under light braking and the undersized rear brakes I would say that you should expect to have to replace the pads every 20-30k. That's the motivation behind the video - learn to DIY and save some money!

  • no i didn't change the rotors they were not damage or scrach .why? you think i need my rotors turn or have them resurface .

  • @lakerone2010

    Yeah, if you didn't turn the rotors they'll be squeaky for a while. It could go away. Some people sand the rotors with sand paper to remove the glaze.

  • I used the original pads from the dealer but it only brought the pads and the lube for the back of the pads but it didn't bring any clips

  • @lakerone2010

    OK, then scratch the clip idea then. Did you replace the rotors?

  • hello i just changed my rear brake pads on a 2006 honda accord v6 and i did everything by the book and i saw all of your videos and my car still is making a screaching noise i took out the pins i lubricated the back of the brake pads i clean the clips holding the break pads and lubricated them i used the brake cleaner but still my brakes sound like they still have the old pads

  • @lakerone2010

    Which pads did you use? I just did my wife's front brakes, and used the AutoZone C-Max. The brakes are fine, but the clips that came with the brake kit were rubbing on the rotors. Thankfully I kept the old clips. I installed them and it quit squeaking.

    If you're up for it, pull a wheel and look at the clips. It'll be really obvious if the clips are rubbing - just look at the sides that face/touch the rotor. If you don't have the old clips, you can bend the existing clips.

  • @lakerone2010

    To be safe lubricate front and rear pads. More than likely its the front brakes as they take most of the wear and tear. Remember to lubricate the metal clips holding the ends of the pads.You should lubricate any part that makes contact with the brake pads with the exception of the disc rotor of course.

    I did mine today and the problem went away. It saved me a trip to the mechanic and a possible $200 bill on a brake pad change from those goons.

  • @lakerone2010

    Its unlikely there is anything wrong with your rotors. I have been changing my own brakes my friend's for many years now and never had a problem. Places like Auto Zone don't even service them anymore to give you an idea.

    Rotors will wear out in time but it takes closer to ten years before you start having issues with them. Best advice is to clean them with brake fluid cleaner anytime you change your brake pads.

  • is re lubing the clips required or just a recommendation?

  • @itsThuts

    It was in the service manual, so I did it. Check out my newer video on lubing the slider pins, too. Lubing the clips is just to keep the brake noise to a minimum.

  • If it wasnt covered the 2008 accords have a recall on rear brake pads. If you go aftermarket brake pads with honda rotors then the squeak will only come back worse in the future

  • @maddogmatt44

    I imagine that most people who buy a coupe aren't planning to tow with it...so I'm not sure I get your point there.

    And what exactly is "a real american car"? A car made by a company that can't run a business properly and needs to get bailed out by the government (using your money)? The same companies that import parts from Canada and Mexico to save a buck and increase its profits while costing American jobs?

    My car was made in Ohio. Your points are invalid and lame. Troll.

  • Duralast are such horribly cheap pads, I feel bad for that Honda which had high quality pads on (which it was meant to have), now it has to suffer.

  • @Sunburn2007

    Honda's "high quality pads" and EBD design got them to settle in a class action law suit:

    "A class-action lawsuit was filed against Honda in Sept 2009 seeking restitution for 750,000 late model Accord and Acura TSX owners. The suit described a design defect in Honda's new Electronic Brake Distribution system which leads to excessive force on the rear brake pads, which results in a vastly reduced lifespan of the pads from 70K to under 20K miles"

    Pad replacement is nearly annual.

  • @ManClubAustin thats surprising to hear! I have a 2008 honda civic si coupe and i luv it! bought it brand new early 2008 and it is now march 2011 and im going to be doing my FIRST brake pad and rotor change, amazing they lasted me about 3 yrs! I guess the oem parts for the civic had no issues at all.

  • @nightrider2k6

    I came from a 2001 Civic, so I was pretty let down by the Accord's rear brake durability. I think I only changed the brakes once in the Civic, and got 100k miles on that car before it sold. The problem described in the comments and video only pertain to the Accord and TSX (same platform).

  • @ManClubAustin yea the civic is awesome, I know this video only pertains to the accord but i just mentioned the civic since they are both honda's that I have owned and similar in maintenance, I uused to have an 01 honda accord which was also very efficient car, it is strange how the 09 accord has that issue.. I dont have any experience with the new accord's but they do look very nice, besides the rear pads wearing out, do you recommend the new accord to people?

  • @ManClubAustin Yep, same here...01 Civic. Sold it with 90K. Had a good 25% left all the way around.

    Now have an 08 Accord. only go 18K out of the rear pads. They were wasted.

  • @jtnoodle

    That's a very popular story. First, since you have an 08, your slider pins are reversed in the rear brakes. Email me if you need some details on that one...I'll probably shoot a video about that issue, too. Other than that, the rotors should be fine. You could get them resurfaced.....and just lube everything up and slap some new pads on. It'll probably take you an hour or two.

  • @ManClubAustin Thanks for the info. The accord now has 52K, so the rears were done a while back. Went smooth, but would you believe they need to be done AGAIN! Ridiculous. I even used the "Ceramic" material pads.

    So what's this "upgrade" to the rears for the 08's I keep hearing about?

    Is the dealer the only place to get it?

  • @jtnoodle

    It's that EBD system putting a load on the rears to avoid "nose dipping" during braking, coupled with the undersized rear brakes. The Honda "fix" was adding V springs. Hopefully they changed the pad compound a bit too. I don't think it'll help much. I just got the Auto Zone ceramics with lifetime warranty, so I don't need to worry about paying again. But yeah, doing pads every year or 18 months is a drag. I guess we'll just get good at switching them out!

  • @jtnoodle Okay. So the autozone ceramics come with a lifetime warranty or did you purchase it additionally? I'm pretty sure I got the something-lifetime or other when I did the rears. Can't remember. I do know the fronts which I did yesterday came with a "limited" lifetime warranty. Not sure exactly if that covers normal wear and tear though. Thanks again for the helpful info.

  • @jtnoodle

    Autozone C-Max pads come with a free lifetime warranty. I just did another video on reversing the slider pins...so check it out!

  • Awesome video! I replaced my rear brake pads and found your video very well put together. I had mine on in less than an hour. However, please be advised that the squeak can also be present in the front pads as well. When I test drove the new rear pads 60 percent of the squeak was gone and the remainder was in the front. I used your steps on the front, minus the piston adjustment as it's a different piston assembly, and now I am SQUEAK FREE!! I'M SO PUMPED!!! Thanks!

  • Is it possible you could damage the ABS system when changing them? Also is it hard pushing the piston back? And could you damage it if you push it to hard?

  • @Mikeeeie

    If you follow the instructions in the video, you won't damage anything. The piston is a bit tough to screw in at first, but once it starts it becomes easier. You'll know when it is all the way in...cuz it stops Just make sure to align it once you've screwed it in all the way.

  • how many days did this take? i swear i seen the night come on two different occasions

  • @BRuE92

    Only one day...the job itself took less than an hour. But good eye - I realized when I was editing the video that some of the shots weren't clear. So instead of posting an incomplete video, I went back out side in the evening and reshot the sequences of lubing and screw caliper piston alignment to make them more clear to the viewers.

  • Awesome video. Like many other people, I was using a C clamp to try and compress the caliper. Good thing you posted this video or I'd still be outside scratching my head haha

  • What trim level is yours? EX-L?

  • @PVoyager

    EX-L. The rear brakes are identical across all trim levels.

  • I have a 2007 accord coupe, and the brakes are set up identical to yours. Can you explain the part of bringing the calipers back out to be on the pads for me. How did you do that part? Did you take the brake cap off? Did you leave it off while pushing the brakes?

  • @6824096

    Once you've screwed the piston back into the caliper, I'd put the cap back on the brake fluid cap back on. After you get the pads lubed and back on, and everything else in place, lower the car down and start it up. You just need to press the brake pedal all the way down about 4-6 times, and you'll feel things move back into place. Also, pull up and release the e-Brake a few times.

  • @ManClubAustin Thanks a lot. I did the front brakes and the rear brakes last weekend with those same exact duralast gold brakes. They are way better than the stock brakes. The stock brakes made queeky noises which were very annoying and embarrasing in a parking lot. Only tooke me about 1 and a half hours to do. Thanks again.

  • Bad ass! This monkey works in a cube farm and was able to tcb. Y'all effen rock! I'm subscribing. Thanks!

  • Thanks did the job today, the rear piston was a bit of a bitch to get started but once it began to turn it was easy enough. 36K miles on an 09 Accord Sedan.

  • Good video, Do you think this would similar to do on a 2003 honda accord coupe?

  • @Mikeeeie

    The brake pad swap on the 2003 Accord should be very similar, if not exactly the same. Go for it!

  • @Mikeeeie I have a 2007 accord coupe (same body as yours) and I changed my front and rear brakes. They are exactly the same as in this video.

  • You saved me some bucks!  I was knocking myself out trying to figure out how to compress the rear piston. Tried an 8" C-clamp but it wouldn't budge. Never occurred to be to screw it back in. Also helped out with the close-up video...Thanks a million!

  • The Honda Accord best brake pads replacement video so far I found.

    keep it up :)

  • He's right, My OEM pads required replacement after 20,000 miles, then replaced it with stock OEM pads. Guess what, they lasted only 20,000 miles exactly, hence the lawsuit that seems to be ongoing. For the third set, I used the Duralast pads he mentions here and I got an easy 50,000 out of them and could probably get 20 more. One thing to note about AutoZone and these pads - Important. If you return them BEFORE you wore them down to the metal, they will replace your pads at no cost!!

  • THANK YOU.I had TROUBLE pushing in that piston.N

    ow i know you have to screw it in clockwise

  • * RELEASE PARKING BRAKE!!!

    Thank you for including that!

    I was changing the rear brake pads on my 07 accord and was having a heck of a time with the calipers until I saw this video! Thanks!

  • Thanks

  • Hello ManClub, I have a 2010 accord EX 4cyl. Do you know if the your video tutorial for your coupe would work for a sedan 4cyl. ? Thanks for doing a great job!

  • @FH415

    Same for the Accord I4, as well as 2009+ Acura TSX.

  • @ManClubAustin Thanks!!!!

  • awesome instructions!!

  • Comment removed

  • Comment removed

  • i've owned an accord 2.4 saloon, and the same problem buggered me up. powertrains are definately fine, but the rear brakes problem got me to spend $250 including labour cost to replace them. i received a letter about that a trial for the brake problem is going on.

  • @limdw90

    Yep...it's sad but true. If you still have your documentation, you should be able to receive a reimbursement for some (hopefully all) of your $250. Also, there is a "fix" which involves reversing the slider pins and installing the new pads with V-springs. Call your local Honda dealer and ask about the rear brake update.

  • Do it yourself!! The pads are $40 to $60 bucks. This is not a difficult repair. Honda is going to make millions in brake repairs alone. 

  • ManClubAustin after switching these brake pads for almost one year do you have any problem? I heard that the front brakes have some problem too, so did you fix that yourself or you took to the dealer and let them fix following TSB. Thanks in Advance.

  • @hellboyctn

    [Crosses fingers] So far, so good on the front brakes.

  • @ManClubAustin

    ManClubAustin, Much appreciated bro'. Im about to do this myself on the coupe. Sporadically, without applying any brake pressure, it sounds like I am dragging an aluminum Bat down the street. lol When I brake it goes away. I'm gonna throw some ceramic pads at it and cross the fingers. Thanks for the knowledge, it seems to be an ongoing issue with the 8th gens. Jam on.

  • @Worldwidehomicide

    I have an 08 coupe with 48,000 km's and have started noticing this also. Assumed on my schedule maintenance, I would be warned of low brake pad wear, was not, so was a bit of a rude wake up after coming from the shop 1 month ago. Read the manual and it states the OEM brakes have a 'warning' mechanism that says they should be replaced. So do I take it back to honda and haggle over $250 reimbursement, or get the parts and do the work myself, like i did on previous cars?

  • I have an 08 coupe with 48,000 km's and have started noticing this also. Assumed on my schedule maintenance, I would be warned of low brake pad wear, was not, so was a bit of a rude wake up after coming from the shop 1 month ago. Read the manual and it states the OEM brakes have a 'warning' mechanism that says they should be replaced. So do I take it back to honda and haggle over $250 reimbursement, or get the parts and do the work myself, like i did on previous cars?

  • @MrHoodie9

    Unless they are gonna cover the charges (as they should due to a defect in manufacturing) I would do it myself. I did the rears on mine when I started hearing the god awful noise ,(no warning light either) And seemed to be fairly easy. They were gonna charge me close to $200. Mine also consumes almost a quart of oil every 1500 miles. American Honda said it was within the "oil consumption" guidelines. I hear that is a big problem for these cars as well.

  • nice one good thing u got this video tnx......

  • ManClubAustin

    Thanks a lot man, it seems that the brake fluid was low which was the reason for the signs on the dash like you said.

    And about the caliper, well even before I touched it, the wearing on the breaks was uneven.

    I have to say though that i am shocked seriously shocked of how small the rear brake pads ware.

  • NO reason to remove the springs!!!

  • @milkywaycenter

    I chose to remove the springs to lube them, per the Honda service manual. My rear brakes were very squeaky. It isn't absolutely necessary, but as my dad says, "If you're gonna do something, do it right".

  • @ManClubAustin Trust me all you have to lube are the bolts for the caliper and lightly greese the pad's

  • Oh crap, I turned the caliper all the way without marking or checking how it was before… HELP!!!

    Changed my breaks from different site instructions and according to the clip, I did everything correct except for the alignment of the caliper and now… I have two signs in my dash: yellow VSA sign and red handbrake sign.

    The car is very new… Does anyone know how to solve this???

  • @ABDizzy83

    The misalignment of the screw in caliper wouldn't turn on the brake/vsa light. Usually a brake light staying on means you're low on brake fluid. Did you check that? Did you disconnect any of the hoses?

    If the caliper is left not aligned, it'll just cause uneven wear in the pad....

  • It was thought that the brakes run down early due to inproper factory adjustment of the emergency brake during assembly. Is this possible?

  • Good video for people who haven't don't brake jobs. A couple points: 1. there is a brake caliper wind-in tool that makes it easier to push those rear pistons in. 2. I changed my rear pads with aftermarket and they only lasted 5 months. Honda has a new version of their rear pads with a special spring, I am installing these new OEM replacements and hoping for a cure for the well-documented Accord brake problem.

  • Wow my neighbor had a 2009 accord sedan and her brakes had to be changed 3 times and rotors.She said she only had 22K miles on it.Well she came to her senses and got a new 2010 Malibu LT.And she does nothing but give high praises about it.

  • Brake pads . . .

  • Your break pads needed replacing at 4100 miles?

  • @vidguy007

    It wasn't necessary. I just got sick of the squeaking and the excessive dust. Other Accord drivers have reported rear brakes requiring replacement at approximately 15,000 miles. So think of it as a preemptive strike.

  • have the same problem with my 09' TSX. same rear brake layout?

  • @zonebellond123

    Yep. We have the same chassis, and the same rear brake issue. Honda has a recall/replacement program on the rear pads. You might check with the Acura dealership to see if they have done the same.

  • I have an '09 Accord, with warped rotors already on front. First Honda for me. Let me get this straight, the caliper pistons SCREW back in? I've done my brake work on my cars--Mazda and BMW--for years and haven't seen this. Also, are the front brakes the same set-up as the rear ones? Do the rotors just pull off, or is there more hassle involved getting them off?

  • @bootsiebanty

    The rear caliper pistons screw in. Pay attention to the alignment of the "+". The fronts press in. The rotors are held in with screw (factory). You might need an impact driver to get them off. Or you could drill them out. Google search TSB 09-096. Honda released new pads for front/rear. You might be covered under warranty...check with the dealership if you're willing. Good luck!

  • @ManClubAustin Thanks for the info! But I'm still trying to understand a screw-in piston. I don't know that Honda would take care of the rotors under warranty. If so, I think they would just keep the car for 2 or 3 days and just turn the rotors, and the things may still be messed up. I think it's easier to do it myself on my dime with new rotors. So is it just taking off the caliper and removing this factory screw to get the front rotors off?

  • @bootsiebanty

    Once you have the wheel off, remove the brake hose mounting bolt (for added play in the hose). Then remove the two caliper bracket bolts. This will allow you to remove the entire caliper. I usually fashion a wire hanger to support the caliper. Remove the disc screws. The rotor should pull out. If not, there are threaded slots to fit 8x1.25mm bolts to push the disc from the hub.

  • You saved me on the caliper part thanks!!

  • the brake system on the rear is the same as the 01 accord ex sedan right? was thinking of doing it myself. a little insight would be appreciated. thanks

  • @flaminloser

    The brake system should be similar. Honda is pretty good about being consistent. Since your car is a 2001, you should turn or replace your rotors and lube the sliding pin.

  • @zulnoon78

    Not unless you open the brake lines.

    Honda recommends changing brake fluid every 3 years. So if your car is 3 years old or older, then change it.

  • @ManClubAustin true man lubes his own shafts

  • its very helpful video thanks . u dont have to bleed the brake after finishing the job ?thanks man

  • hey i need to change the rear breaks on my 08 honda accord lx. i bought the brakes already but i didnt get any grease or anything. so far its simple from the video but i wish you had shown the part where to screw the piston. i didnt get any springs with the pad either im goin back to napa....

  • @ZoyaElite

    You should get some grease. Otherwise, those brakes are gonna squeak!  Sometimes it's tough to do something that requires two hands while filming. I need a tripod... :)

    It's really easy to screw in the piston. Just make note of the orientation first..you can even mark it on the caliper with a sharpie. At first the piston is tough to turn, but once you get it going, it gets easier. Just go all the way in, then back out to make the alignment. Your brakes will be soft - pump em!

  • How long do the rear brakes last with the aftermarket pads?

  • @loofahbox

    Good question...I'll let you know when they wear out. But I'm guessing that it'll far exceed the 15k-20k miles reported by the OEM pads. At that rate, Honda would be changing your rear brakes every one to two years. Unacceptable!

  • @ManClubAustin Yeah it's kinda bad.....Those new pads won't wear down/warp the rotors?

  • @loofahbox

    Nah, I don't think so. I'll post it up if I hit any issues.

  • thanks for this vid man, i used these instructions on my S2000, seams the breaking system is identical :)

  • It is way too much work, I would pay someone to do this for me haha.

  • what a terrible place to jack from..

  • What a terrible waste of a comment....

    Per the Honda service manual, the rear tow hook is the center jacking point for the rear of the car. So, it isn't terrible at all...it is the correct spot.

  • Gents - a doitmyselfer in Alpharetta - am going to be doing the rear pads on my fiance's 04 accord soon - the assembly looks a LOT like toyotas disc brake assembly - which I've found some cleanup/work on the caliper pins (replacing the boots) is usually needed to allow the caliper to function evenly. Any experience with that - - - ??

  • With a 6 year old car you should lubricate the slider pin. Hopefully the rubber boots are in tact. If not, replace them.

    These brakes won't work properly if the slider pin isn't lubed.

    Best of luck and let us know how it turns out!

  • I bought my car in 09 and about a month and a half later; my break started making a loud squealing noise. It was very embarrassing because it was a new car. I took it back to the dealership to have it replace and still the problem was never solved. Then after complaining again, the THEN told me this was an ongoing issue since the 08' models and their currently trying to fix the problem. It sucks because I was never told that there was on ongoing problem or I would have never bought the car.

  • Ever since I've changed my rear pads to CMax ceramics, I've never heard that squeal. It's really not that tough to change...do yourself a favor and get rid of those OEM rear pads.

    I went to the dealer too, and they "lubed" the shims. It worked for about 2 days. That's when I took matters into my own hands.

    Yeah, it's crappy that Honda doesn't admit that their pads suck. I hear Canadians get a free replacement set, but nothing for Americans yet.

    Don't let the brakes ruin the car. Fix it!

  • Ooh so you have to actually spin or screw the caliper in I was trying to compress it thatis why os was so hard I'll be doing it this week again and my rent the right tool from autozpne for free

    Great video

  • Oops. Hopefully you didn't destroy the piston's threads by trying to compress the caliper.

    MAKE SURE YOU NOTE THE CALIPER ORIENTATION BEFORE TURNING! Take the top off your brake fluid reservoir, then slowly screw in the caliper. You need to put the caliper back in the exact same orientation, or the pad will wear unevenly.

    Good luck!

  • Thanks for the video!

    Honda did a horrible job on the rear brake design. Mine keep wearing out @ 12k miles. Front pads hardly have any wear. Luckily my brother is a mechanic so he hooked it up.

    Was this bad design done purposely by Honda for more service revenue? I think so. And I'm glad to not give them a dime on brake maintenance.

    I must ask though... is the problem just the brake pad material, or is it the piston design?

  • Yep, it's a little sad. Honda dropped the ball on the rear Accord brakes. If my crystal ball is correct, your inner pad was worn to the sensor, and the outer pad had some pad left. This is a drawback to the sliding pin/piston design. I think the answer to your question is: "Both". The sliding pin design will result in uneven wear. Also, the pad material is crappy. Mine were squeaking badly, and horribly dusty.

    With the ceramic pads, they'll last longer and not dust. But they'll wear unevenly.

  • Thanks! And yes, the inner pad was worn to the indicator and the outer pad had a little life left.

    Apparently there is a class action law suit open for this issue. Girard Gibbs LLP is handling the case. I recommend all Honda Accord 2008+ owners to contact them- however it is questionable if anything comes out of it.

  • Jeezo that looks so simple ! i am Going to do my own brakes I drive a 2006 UK Spec Accord i iam assuming this is the same set up ? have you got a video for front brakes?

  • I just helped a friend do a 2007 Accord sedan last night. The brakes were similar, but not exact. Once you remove the two bolts holding the caliper (12mm and 17mm, if remember correctly), the caliper will slide off, moving towards the rear of the car. Open the brake master cylinder, then screw in the caliper, taking note of its correct orientation. Make sure you align the piston properly! Inspect the rotor, and replace if need be. Lube your sliding pin (search for another vid on that).

  • I DID IT ! because of weather conditions i was only granted a sunny sunday and it took me about 1.5 hours.

    brakes = 30 bucks

    Piston tool = 6 bucks

    doing 35 and pulling the the E-brake and coming to a screeching stop..... = pricless

  • Nice, congrats! Aren't you glad you didn't pay the dealership $300 to do it for you?

    Knowledge is power. Pass it on.

  • This solves my problem with my back brakes. I changes the front ones this past fall and save myself about 1 hour of waiting at the Meineke and saved about $215!!! Now i'm going to tackle the back ones and this vid gave me the answer on the tool i needed (brake piston tool). savi ng my self another $200 !!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS ManClubAustin !!!!!!!

  • Another satisfied DIYer. Just make sure to note the alignment of the piston, mark it, and realign after screwing in the piston.

  • Nice work there next time try some brembos on that beast lol..

  • Woow!!! Great work dude! This is exactly what I was looking for. Great info; keep up the good work. The dealership was going to charge me $200+ to do this... I'll spend the difference on something more usefull.

    Thanks!

  • Thanks for nice video. I have 2007 Toyota Corolla with 14k and its already squeaking. From what I read in the forums, they were supposed to last for at least 50k.

    Don't forget to save your recipe from AutoZone since they have lifetime warranty.

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