It can take some wiggling but be sure the selector fork rod is seating at back that is 1/4" or so of gap as well hold the mainshaft on clutch side. Watch the cam when moving back and forth as well. Look around the boss on inner case for the dings from someone hammering and compare old and new detent springs if you have them. That spring should not have too much interference when installing. Good luck,
@441rider Thanks for this, just managed to get it on! This bike has turned out to be a massive restoration project. Now to strip down the bike itself...
Try not to cut too many corners and use nylock nuts if you can on motor mounts. Try and shrink wrap and solder electrical connections as well but clean off any extra flux.
1:44 sec reversed is 4:41 LOL! should take less than a minute and less caveman "wiggling" of case. Bit frustrating the latest service challenges. The key from rotor has yet to fall off into primary but that happened next! LOL!
I was trying Permatex grey Motoseal, much like yamabond. Not sure how well it will work yet as I am waiting to go to volume of oil until I fix inlet valve which seems to be the leak I have been hunting. I used grey import Permatex for years, a harder and more adheasive silicone it is harder to clean but when put on a clean surface (contact cleaner) and tacky it locks in the oil very well under pressure and even makes band aids as it stick well to outer seams in a crunch.
i cant get the casing to make contact when putting the gearbox in. It will go in so far and then stop with no movement at all, help please? "/
joshma8 9 months ago
@joshma8
It can take some wiggling but be sure the selector fork rod is seating at back that is 1/4" or so of gap as well hold the mainshaft on clutch side. Watch the cam when moving back and forth as well. Look around the boss on inner case for the dings from someone hammering and compare old and new detent springs if you have them. That spring should not have too much interference when installing. Good luck,
441rider 9 months ago
@441rider Thanks for this, just managed to get it on! This bike has turned out to be a massive restoration project. Now to strip down the bike itself...
joshma8 9 months ago
@joshma8
Try not to cut too many corners and use nylock nuts if you can on motor mounts. Try and shrink wrap and solder electrical connections as well but clean off any extra flux.
441rider 9 months ago
1:44 sec reversed is 4:41 LOL! should take less than a minute and less caveman "wiggling" of case. Bit frustrating the latest service challenges. The key from rotor has yet to fall off into primary but that happened next! LOL!
441rider 1 year ago
what kind of sealer do you use between the timing cover and the engine case and the outer to inner timing cover.
maddkraut03 1 year ago
@maddkraut03
I was trying Permatex grey Motoseal, much like yamabond. Not sure how well it will work yet as I am waiting to go to volume of oil until I fix inlet valve which seems to be the leak I have been hunting. I used grey import Permatex for years, a harder and more adheasive silicone it is harder to clean but when put on a clean surface (contact cleaner) and tacky it locks in the oil very well under pressure and even makes band aids as it stick well to outer seams in a crunch.
441rider 1 year ago